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VelociBacon posted:Honestly make some calls to wreckers and see how much a replacement engine would be, it's a lot easier and will be far less labour. You need the wrecker to have a gaurantee that the engine works and ideally they could tell you when the timing belt etc was done. I appreciate this advice, but the issue of finding an engine that is as known as the one currently in the car (both by myself and the mechanic on the job) in a short period of time and getting it thoroughly vetted prior to installation scares me away. If it weren't my wife's daily driver to get to school (45 minutes each way), and we need it to get home to family for Christmas next week (1000 miles away) I'd be more inclined to go this route. The mechanic I'm working with gave me a very long detailed explanation of everything, and while I'm still learning a lot of deeper engine stuff, I was pretty convinced by her advice that having the gasket replaced and head checked by a machinist (also a well-regarded local place) would likely get this car well beyond 200K. She says that barring any damage found during the process, everything else on the car is in great shape, and my preventative maintenance and work on stuff like brakes, suspension, oil, gaskets I can do, etc. is contributing to keeping it running well. My wife and I did some research and between us found that the car is not likely to sell for more than $4000, private or trade in (based on Car Guru, KBB, Carvana, and regional private and dealership sale prices for Matrixes). And not being able to afford a new car payment and seeing all the advice ITT about this being a bad time to buy a car, we opted to just have the repair done, get a little help from family to pay the bill, and pay them back as soon as we can. Overall, I think it will be much cheaper over the next 18 months to get the fix now, continue to drive a basically good car, and then upgrade when life allows. So thanks to everyone that's thoughtfully answered my neophyte questions about this whole process. Since we've committed to doing this one big fix, I'm basically getting carte blanche from my wife to continue all maintenance that I have the confidence to tackle, and this forum is a big help in that process. 22 Eargesplitten posted:Are there any brands of combination strut/spring that aren't garbage? Not for performance use, just for a Camry so it's easier for DIY and doesn't involve me telling someone else to use a spring compressor. The car is also at like 170k miles and 13 years so there's probably a bit of sagging in the springs so it wouldn't hurt to replace them. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Dec 15, 2021 |
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Dec 15, 2021 20:05
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I appreciate this advice, but the issue of finding an engine that is as known as the one currently in the car (both by myself and the mechanic on the job) in a short period of time and getting it thoroughly vetted prior to installation scares me away. If it weren't my wife's daily driver to get to school (45 minutes each way), and we need it to get home to family for Christmas next week (1000 miles away) I'd be more inclined to go this route. The mechanic I'm working with gave me a very long detailed explanation of everything, and while I'm still learning a lot of deeper engine stuff, I was pretty convinced by her advice that having the gasket replaced and head checked by a machinist (also a well-regarded local place) would likely get this car well beyond 200K. She says that barring any damage found during the process, everything else on the car is in great shape, and my preventative maintenance and work on stuff like brakes, suspension, oil, gaskets I can do, etc. is contributing to keeping it running well. My wife and I did some research and between us found that the car is not likely to sell for more than $4000, private or trade in (based on Car Guru, KBB, Carvana, and regional private and dealership sale prices for Matrixes). And not being able to afford a new car payment and seeing all the advice ITT about this being a bad time to buy a car, we opted to just have the repair done, get a little help from family to pay the bill, and pay them back as soon as we can. Overall, I think it will be much cheaper over the next 18 months to get the fix now, continue to drive a basically good car, and then upgrade when life allows. Getting the problem fixed now rather than just driving on it until........ whenever was good too. These problem only get worse.
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Dec 15, 2021 21:59
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put bilsteins on your camry op, theyre not that much more expensive
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Dec 15, 2021 22:03
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Ok Comboomer posted:put bilsteins on your camry op, theyre not that much more expensive I think they wanted to get a set of preassembled units to minimize the amount of work involved. Additionally, depending on year, Bilstein does not make any products at all for Camrys, so please try to have more constructive answers in the future.
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Dec 15, 2021 22:19
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Charles posted:I think they wanted to get a set of preassembled units to minimize the amount of work involved. Additionally, depending on year, Bilstein does not make any products at all for Camrys, so please try to have more constructive answers in the future. lol ok Charles I contribute plenty of constructive answers to this thread also I legitimately didnt know Bilstein didnt make parts for Camry also why are all of your posts so goddamn unpleasant?
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Dec 15, 2021 22:32
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STR posted:You'd have a check engine light for a large evap leak (or a message about a loose gas cap) if it was the filler. It's likely water that's been splashed up in there, mixed with whatever gas droplets get spilled when you remove the nozzle. Ended up being a kinked drain hose. I didn't even know there was a drain hose, but it was kinked and twisted, and prevented water from draining out of the compartment. So any time it rained, or I washed my car, water would pool in the compartment and couldn't drain. A simple, easy, fix.
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Dec 17, 2021 07:29
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Stupid question as winter is approaching! Just realized that I'm getting no heat. 2009 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4-cylinder 25k miles Can someone give me some ideas? Here's what I can say for certain. 1. Blower works, but blows only cold air. 2. Max AC actuator works (took glove box out to check). Probably not related, but thought I'd list it anyway. 3. I do not hear any knocking, so it's not a broken air mixer? Could be stuck I guess. Nothing seems to happen at all when I set thermostat to heat. 4. The inlet and outlet to/from the heater core gets very hot, so I suspect coolant is circulating fine. 5. Defrost air is also cold. I feel like this should be DIY, so I'll try any suggestions before I take it in. Thanks.
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Dec 17, 2021 15:31
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By max AC actuator do you mean the recirc door? The blend door actuator is pretty easy to access behind the glove box to test the actuator itself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIogKGpr5UU when you have the actuator out, you should be able to stick your finger in the hole the rod goes into and move the door manually to see if you get heat. If the blend door actuator is good and the return line from the heater core gets hot, i would think it's the blend door itself inside the heater box which is a huge pain in the rear end, so much so that most people cut a hole in the air box instead of ripping the dash out. Powershift fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Dec 17, 2021 |
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Dec 17, 2021 15:46
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Powershift posted:By max AC actuator do you mean the recirc door? Yeah, I do mean the recirculation door. Thanks for clarifying. I was talking to my dad about this, and it so happens he ended up cutting a hole in the air box for his late 90s ranger just as you recommended. Guess some things never change. I'll check out the video when I go on break. Thanks for your help.
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Dec 17, 2021 16:55
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My 98 Ranger broke me of owning another Ford. That and having an 09 F250 super duty for my work truck which has its own host of problems, but at least I'm not on the hook for repairs nor do I have to do them myself.
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Dec 17, 2021 18:36
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Charles posted:What year is the Camry? I wanna check Rockauto and see what they offer. On my Saturn, yeah. Went with Moog quickstruts, car wound up sitting a lot higher than stock. KYB would be the OEM for a Camry, and it's what the shop put on mom's Avalon. If KYB makes quickstruts for a Camry, that would be my #1 pick (fake edit, just checked Rockauto; KYB does offer quickstruts for an 09 Camry!). OP, anything will be an improvement over 12-13 year old suspension. If you plan to keep it a long time, KYB is hard to beat, but they'll cost a bit. Looks like there's currently a mail in rebate for them. Keep in mind the fronts differ between SE and other trims. And make sure to get an alignment after.
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Dec 18, 2021 05:29
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central dogma posted:Stupid question as winter is approaching!
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Dec 18, 2021 05:38
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2005 Colorado Z71 4x4 with 3.5L 5-cylinder, Canadian model. I can't get it to start. It ran one day and not the next. I was sure I posted about it, but I can't find a post by myself so maybe not. I'm 99% sure there's no injector pulse. I can confirm fuel to the rail at 50-60psi, but none in the cylinders. It will start briefly if I feed it alternate fuel like carb cleaner through the intake. Some research suggested if the crank sensor signal goes, it will cut fuel, so I replaced the sensor but it made no difference. There are no fault codes stored, so I was skeptical the sensor would matter but it may just not have coded since it failed between engine cycles.. maybe. I checked the connector to the fuel injector harness at the back of the engine, and it had the constant power or ground where it should (I can't remember which now. I think it was constant 12V with switched ground, but I had the diagram at the time and it was correct) but the other signal never appeared. As far as I can tell this means it's never sending a signal to the injectors to open. That's what let me to the crank sensor. I also traced the path to that connector, and the relays seems good for PCM and ignition signals. Beyond that I get stuck, because the wiring schematic I have doesn't match my wire colours exactly. I really need this thing for reno work and snowy days and I'm at my wits end.
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Dec 18, 2021 16:33
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Is there a light on for the security system? I think the computer might withhold fuel if it doesn't read a coded key. Can you watch live data while it's cranking to see if it registers any RPM?
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Dec 18, 2021 17:42
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STR posted:On my Saturn, yeah. Went with Moog quickstruts, car wound up sitting a lot higher than stock. KYB would be the OEM for a Camry, and it's what the shop put on mom's Avalon. If KYB makes quickstruts for a Camry, that would be my #1 pick (fake edit, just checked Rockauto; KYB does offer quickstruts for an 09 Camry!). Thanks. It's not my car (anymore), just giving advice to a friend who needs work done on a budget. Alignment question, this time actually for my car, because all of the shops around here are either booked out a month or are first-come-first-served but also we're open M-F 8-4 and it takes a couple hours to do each one. How much difference in camber is acceptable between sides? Ideally you have it perfectly matched, sure, but is 10 minutes off okay? Five? Alignment spec for the front is -25' +- 45' and the rear is -45' +- 45' according to the FSM which is a pretty large range, like .4" potential difference in the horizontal distance between top and bottom of the wheel by itself unless I managed to do the math wrong three different ways including sketching it in CAD software.
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Dec 18, 2021 23:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is there a light on for the security system? I think the computer might withhold fuel if it doesn't read a coded key. I can try that next. Security is ok. I actually ran through the relearn for passkey or whatever they call it. Im also told the Canadian version does not function as an interlock/fuel cut.
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Dec 18, 2021 23:15
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Any goons in Hays Kansas? Im stranded with a leaking left front axle on my Tacoma.
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Dec 19, 2021 00:22
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Followup question: Can I just top up my diff and drive for another 465 miles if I stay vigilant about checking it? Assuming I confirm that the leak is in fact only the diff? I spent a big chunk of time driving in 4wd last weekend, but I'm 95% sure that 4wd is not engaged, so I don't think it's a leak from the front driveshaft.
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Dec 19, 2021 02:23
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Even if the axle is leaking the ring gear is still gonna get lubricated isn't it? I drove a Mustang with a badly leaking seal for like 3 years.
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Dec 19, 2021 03:05
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Ive consulted with a couple relative experts now and they say that if the diff hasnt drained itself then the leak is likely not that bad and I can keep it topped up with the appropriate gear oil and keep trucking. First thing in the morning Ill clean it all up and top up the fluid to get an idea of how much was lost. Tacoma forums are full of people with the same problem and a handful of accounts of just keeping the fluid level up until fixing it. On the other hand, Tacoma forums are also full of idiots. But this seems like its not the emergency I thought it might be.
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Dec 19, 2021 04:07
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Another update: I topped up the front diff, it took about 1/4 of a quart of 75wt. The axle has some play in it where it enters the diff. Tacoma forums say this is normal. It doesnt shift in and out of the diff, just a little rattle and wiggle. Does this sound safe to drive on or is it a dont move any more than I have to issue?
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Dec 19, 2021 17:28
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Keep checking/topping off, finish your trip. Unlock the front hubs if it's possible.
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Dec 19, 2021 18:24
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Welp, I got a real stupid question. 2015 Nissan Juke Nismo , CVT I managed to drain whatever this plug holds;  To the right is the CVT and to the left is where I needed to be to drain the oil. Around 0.7 L of fluid had drained before I realized my error, but by that time it was a narrow stream. The fluid has a distinct odor and is dark. Im unsure of what kind of fluid it is or what I need to do now. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Dec 19, 2021 19:42
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Dr.Caligari posted:Welp, I got a real stupid question. My guess would be the diff, but I'm not super up to date on CVT stuff.
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Dec 19, 2021 20:14
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Dr.Caligari posted:Welp, I got a real stupid question. Is it an AWD version, or only FWD? If it's AWD, probably the transfer case, though that's not the proper drain plug for it. This should help, you're looking for page 35 and beyond. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Dec 19, 2021 |
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Dec 19, 2021 22:46
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Thank you, yes its an AWD. Someone else has said that is the transfer case and I lost gear oil. Dr.Caligari fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Dec 19, 2021 |
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Dec 19, 2021 23:31
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STR posted:Keep checking/topping off, finish your trip. Unlock the front hubs if it's possible. Thats what I did and everything went well. At lower speeds, the leak wasnt as bad so I didnt lose that much oil. Im going to replace the seal today now that Im at my father in laws place with a good shop and proper tools. I hope its just the seal and not a full axle swap.
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Dec 20, 2021 17:01
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Hi all, I have moved to a cold snowy climate for the first time in my life, and I have a question about winter or snow tires. My car is a 2015 Toyota Prius V Three with the stock alloy wheels. In Kentucky I always just ran all seasons all year and that was good enough, but I feel like I will need winter tires here in Wisconsin. The question is: is it okay to mount winter tires on my normal wheels, or should I have dedicated winter wheels? Is it going to put undue stress on the wheels to swap out all seasons for winter tires every year? I'm not too concerned about keeping the wheels looking nice as this is just our family people-mover and not any kind of collector's item or sports car or anything. Thanks for the help!
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Dec 21, 2021 16:41
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welcome 2 Clown Town posted:Hi all, I have moved to a cold snowy climate for the first time in my life, and I have a question about winter or snow tires. One pro of having a dedicated set is finding out if you can go to a smaller wheel size. It was cheaper for me to buy 15 inch snow tires plus a used set of rims than it was for me to buy 4 17 inch snow tires. Also a chance for wacky colors.
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Dec 21, 2021 16:55
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welcome 2 Clown Town posted:Hi all, I have moved to a cold snowy climate for the first time in my life, and I have a question about winter or snow tires. A few things
IMO there are lots of benefits and the cost of the rims pays itself off in 2 years of this. Do it and don't look back!
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Dec 21, 2021 17:03
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My 98 Honda Prelude got smashed to poo poo. All the moving bits still work judging by how I could move it to the side of the road, does it make sense trying to part it out or should I just let the insurance take care of it? It was the automatic version for that year which I think had the smaller VTec engine RIP Prelude  Edit: 174k on the odometer, I changed the timing belt at 100k DarkHorse fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Dec 21, 2021 |
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Dec 21, 2021 17:06
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welcome 2 Clown Town posted:The question is: is it okay to mount winter tires on my normal wheels, or should I have dedicated winter wheels? Is it going to put undue stress on the wheels to swap out all seasons for winter tires every year? As others have said, dedicated wheels have a lot of benefits. If you don't want (or can't find) cheap steelies, you can get used OEM wheels from the junkyard for relatively cheap. I went this way after I broke some cheap wheels from Tire Rack and they no longer sold the same ones for a direct replacement. Probably paid a little more, but I know there's thousands of replacements that the manufacturer has produced out there if I break another wheel.
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Dec 21, 2021 17:17
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DarkHorse posted:My 98 Honda Prelude got smashed to poo poo. All the moving bits still work judging by how I could move it to the side of the road, does it make sense trying to part it out or should I just let the insurance take care of it? It was the automatic version for that year which I think had the smaller VTec engine How much time do you want to spend dealing with dickheads on Facebook Marketplace and Cragislist?
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Dec 21, 2021 17:30
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DarkHorse posted:My 98 Honda Prelude got smashed to poo poo. All the moving bits still work judging by how I could move it to the side of the road, does it make sense trying to part it out or should I just let the insurance take care of it? It was the automatic version for that year which I think had the smaller VTec engine Sell whatever parts aren't necessary to drive the vehicle and then let your insurance write it off. When my car was written off 15 years ago I literally drove it the few blocks to the insurance building (it's govt monopolized where I live) with a milk crate for a seat, no exhaust after the headers, and no hood or hatch. They were giving me like a grand for the 89240sx so I sold the parts within the community before dropping it off. Yes it's not legal yes it wasn't safe to drive without an actual seat.
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Dec 21, 2021 17:38
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Thanks all for the tips! I will check out some junkyard wheels or cheap steelies. Last question: What about TPMS? Would I still have to go into the shop to get that reset even if I put on my own wheels?
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Dec 21, 2021 18:16
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welcome 2 Clown Town posted:Thanks all for the tips! I will check out some junkyard wheels or cheap steelies. No. A competent shop can "clone" the IDs of the TPMSes on your current set of wheels and put them on new sensors for the winter wheels. When you swap the car won't know the difference.
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Dec 21, 2021 18:52
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welcome 2 Clown Town posted:Thanks all for the tips! I will check out some junkyard wheels or cheap steelies. Do some googling and find out what dimension of steelie works for your car, I think you can use tirerack.com also for this.
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Dec 21, 2021 19:44
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mr.belowaverage posted:I can try that next. Security is ok. I actually ran through the relearn for passkey or whatever they call it. I’m also told the Canadian version does not function as an interlock/fuel cut. So live data suggests a crank signal, as I can read engine rpm. Beyond that what I can scan looked fine, and it still has no fault codes. Towing it to the dealer tonight as Im out of ideas.
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Dec 21, 2021 20:25
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welcome 2 Clown Town posted:Thanks all for the tips! I will check out some junkyard wheels or cheap steelies. What Motronic said. But also, if you want to save a few more bucks and don't care if you have a light on your dash board for 4-5 months a year, you can just not bother with the sensors and get regular valve stems. Not having them won't mess anything up on the car. Just periodically check your tire pressure (you should be doing that regardless of having TPMS).
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Dec 22, 2021 03:15
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wesleywillis posted:What Motronic said. My truck gives me a notification to clear every time I start it. It drives me crazy.
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Dec 22, 2021 03:45
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