|
My GTI warns me every time it is 39F out. e: I stand by this page snype 
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2021 03:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 17:19 |
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:So live data suggests a crank signal, as I can read engine rpm. Beyond that what I can scan looked fine, and it still has no fault codes. does it generate the rpm signal from the crank or cam sensor? if the crank, could the cam sensor be out, since that ought to control spark? would really expect that to generate a code, though
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2021 04:30
|
|
|
Work van does the same. "TPMS System Malfunction" error. It only shows pressures for the passenger side tires. Passenger side tires are both pretty much bald, driver's side have been replaced at some point. Wheels don't even match on the driver's side... Penske fleet maintenance strikes again.  ALL of our vans have the same error message, except for the 2022s we just got. Those don't have it only because Penske hasn't swapped any tires on them. Yet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 02:08
|
|
|
When I bought my new car, I traded in the old one (a 2003 Civic hybrid), which I bought back in 2007 from a coworker at the time. In Washington -- I'm in California. And I have no title. The dealership that took the car as trade-in is saying that because the sale was in another state and I don't have a title (nor any documentation of the sale, I was bad at retaining paperwork back then), they can't legally do anything with it, and are suggesting that I just take it back and junk it. I'm, of course, leery of taking the thing back, because as far as I'm concerned, it has negative value to me. I don't think I have any obligation to, but it'd be helpful if I had some clue about the rules around this kind of thing, for when they start putting more pressure on me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 02:43
|
|
|
You transferred it to your name, right? You can request a new title easily enough. Now if you didn't transfer it to your name, you're gonna need to track down your old coworker and have them request a new title. Or you'll have to do a bonded title. (and never, ever, EVER not transfer a car to your name after buying it) Either way, the dealer can't do anything with it. And YOU don't own the car if you never transferred it, so it was never yours to trade in.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 02:51
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:When I bought my new car, I traded in the old one (a 2003 Civic hybrid), which I bought back in 2007 from a coworker at the time. In Washington -- I'm in California. And I have no title. The dealership that took the car as trade-in is saying that because the sale was in another state and I don't have a title (nor any documentation of the sale, I was bad at retaining paperwork back then), they can't legally do anything with it, and are suggesting that I just take it back and junk it. if the title was transferred to you, and you never signed it over to anyone else, it's still your car. anything that happens to it is still your responsibility. if you never got the title signed over to you in the first place, then it's still your co-worker's, i suppose
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 02:51
|
|
|
Anyone got any tips for removing the driver side front door on a 2001 Chevrolet Astro? I got the upper pin out fine, but the bottom pin is a total pain in the rear end. There was a retaining clip I got out, and I hammered it out of the bottom hole in the hinge, but its seems like it's stopped moving. This is the only video I could find online that showed the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ih098o1Q-do However, the vehicle in this video is missing a part above the bottom hinge that has a wheel on it. It gets in the way of getting any leverage on the pin. As far as I can tell, the Astro doesn't use a retaining clip like the one shown in the video at the bottom of the pin, but maybe I'm wrong? The one I pulled off was at the top of the pin. I've used a center punch on the bottom of the pin, I've stuck my vice grips on the side of the pin and hammered it, but it is not moving. I'll hit it with some penetrating spray next attempt, but if anyone has any advice, I'm all ears. GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Dec 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 03:11
|
|
|
I don't have that much advice, but if its already moved a bit then you probably don't really need penetrating oil. Is the pin obstructing access to the bolts that hold the hinge either on to the chassis or the door? If you can take it off via the bolts, you'll have a lot more room to work and not have to worry about holding the door while hammering etc..
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 03:20
|
|
|
The hinges are welded to the door and the frame, but that was a good idea! I hadn't thought of it!
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 03:24
|
|
|
Yeah, I just looked at the link you posted. Didn't realize they were welded on. Have you tried putting the top pin back in to hold the door more vertical etc, and then tried banging out the bottom pin first?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 03:28
|
|
|
STR posted:You transferred it to your name, right? You can request a new title easily enough. Raluek posted:if the title was transferred to you, and you never signed it over to anyone else, it's still your car. anything that happens to it is still your responsibility. Thank you, both of you. I legitimately don't remember how the transaction went; this was 14 years ago and I was a very different person back then. About all I remember is a bunch of hassle with the Washington state DMV. And I was awful at keeping track of important paperwork. I would hope that we got the car transferred to my name, but I honestly don't know. I also have basically zero chance of finding that old coworker. We did everything with work email, and even if I were to get my old job back, those emails assuredly don't exist any more. And I sure don't remember the guy's name. So it sounds like the process will necessarily be something like: - Take the car back - Get a bonded title - Then sell the car to the dealer or junk it ?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 04:29
|
|
|
You don't even need to do a bonded title if you did actually transfer it into your name years ago (which it seems like you would have had to do to keep it registered). Google even autocompleted "Washington state lo" to "lost title" and the first hit explains exactly what you need to do. https://www.dol.wa.gov/vehicleregistration/replacetitle.html Bonded titles are for if the person who has the vehicle is not the person on the last recorded title. It's something the dealer could potentially do but clearly doesn't want to.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 07:21
|
|
|
Raluek posted:does it generate the rpm signal from the crank or cam sensor? if the crank, could the cam sensor be out, since that ought to control spark? would really expect that to generate a code, though Good question, and I’m going on anecdotal advice here. I’m told the crank can be responsible for fuel cut, and fuel (injector pulse) is what’s missing. I have spark, so if the cam sensor times spark, it’s working. The good news is, the right rear brake is stuck on from sitting while I screwed around so the tow truck couldn’t get it. It’s currently nosed-in to my narrow driveway on a downtown city street, so needs to be pushed into the road to load 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 15:01
|
|
|
My new (used) Focus has a really crappy window tint on the back window. It's blurry and nearly impossible to see through, especially at night - literally all you see are the headlights, making driving with it dangerous. It's too thin and too stuck to come off in one piece, and this is as far as I got: I saw a heat gun suggested in some videos, and I tried that, but it did nothing (and the tint in those videos looked MUCH thicker and easier to remove). What's the best way to get this off without damaging the window? Should I get out the Goo Gone or something?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 22:36
|
|
|
Steamer
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 00:20
|
|
|
I've got coilovers on my car that needs the alignment fixed. I'm going to go over to a friend's garage tomorrow morning because it has been snowing all day and I don't relish lying in the snow working outside (and I'd prefer to drive the more stable and comfortable car the 3-4 hours to see family for Christmas), but would it be bad to adjust the camber by means of the camber plates on the top mounts rather than futzing with the eccentric bolts in the strut mount? I figure I can do that with the wheels still on easily so I can have more visual feedback as I adjust it without working around the tire. I know there's reasons that people with racecars don't solely adjust at the strut/hub bolts but I forget what they are.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 01:54
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Good question, and I’m going on anecdotal advice here. I’m told the crank can be responsible for fuel cut, and fuel (injector pulse) is what’s missing. I have spark, so if the cam sensor times spark, it’s working. im not sure that its safe to rule out the crank position sensor because you get an rpm signal when cranking, because i dont know for sure which sensor generates that signal, but if you do know that then ignore. i would be surprised for it not to throw a code if it was either sensor, though. i did find this advice on a colorado forum, though, and it could be something to check? quote:OK the Colorado ground speech. your BCM sends start yes/no signal to the ECM but if either one has crappy grounds, voltages will get goofy, and signals can be lost. in another thread, there was this: quote:Not sure what his problem is, but it isn't the PassLock that is preventing the engine from cranking. The only thing PassLock does is stop the ECM from opening the injectors. The engine will crank with a PassLock issue. you're sure the security light doesn't flash while you crank it? Raluek fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Dec 24, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 02:00
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:You don't even need to do a bonded title if you did actually transfer it into your name years ago (which it seems like you would have had to do to keep it registered). Google even autocompleted "Washington state lo" to "lost title" and the first hit explains exactly what you need to do. https://www.dol.wa.gov/vehicleregistration/replacetitle.html Ahh! Thank you, that's very helpful. Shame about the cost and delay involved, but I guess that's paperwork for you.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 03:04
|
|
|
Rotten Red Rod posted:My new (used) Focus has a really crappy window tint on the back window. It's blurry and nearly impossible to see through, especially at night - literally all you see are the headlights, making driving with it dangerous. It's too thin and too stuck to come off in one piece, and this is as far as I got: Doors were easier back window was a bitch and a half. It was the typical purple bubbling lovely tint. It took days of scraping with a little paint scraper.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 11:08
|
|
|
Raluek posted:im not sure that its safe to rule out the crank position sensor because you get an rpm signal when cranking, because i dont know for sure which sensor generates that signal, but if you do know that then ignore. i would be surprised for it not to throw a code if it was either sensor, though. Good point, but I’m also ruling it out because I replaced it! quote:i did find this advice on a colorado forum, though, and it could be something to check? This could be worth checking, but the thing that’s weird to me is that it ran fine one day, I parked in my driveway, and the next day it was dead. If it was grounds I would have expected some intermittent trouble leading up to this. But that’s not necessarily true. quote:in another thread, there was this: Yeah, so apparently that doesn’t apply to Canadian models. However, I did relearn the keys anyway to be sure. I managed to lock them out trying, and then did successfully reprogrammed them. The security light was on when I screwed then up, but now it isn’t. Also of note, the Canuck truck did not crank with the security light on! Cage posted:Years ago when I removed tint I remember soaking it with ammonia (window cleaner) on a warm day and then covering it with either black garbage bags or aluminum foil and letting it sit. Assuming since its the dead of winter you cant do that but yeah the answer is varying degrees of heating up and breaking up the adhesive. Bear in mind two points here: 1. Most window cleaner no longer contains ammonia 2. If you have defrost lines on that window, I’d avoid a scraper. They are pretty delicate.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 14:06
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:1. Most window cleaner no longer contains ammonia
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 16:14
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:2. If you have defrost lines on that window, I’d avoid a scraper. They are pretty delicate. Quoting this for emphasis because I took out a couple of defroster lines using a plastic scraper on my old Thunderbird when I removed the tint. Be super careful around them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 18:55
|
|
|
I got a scratch on my car's paint -- parking it in the garage for the first time, and it rubbed against the metal foot pedal on my bicycle. What's the goon consensus on recommended touch-up tools? Get a paint pen? Is there a favored brand?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 18:59
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I got a scratch on my car's paint -- parking it in the garage for the first time, and it rubbed against the metal foot pedal on my bicycle. What's the goon consensus on recommended touch-up tools? Get a paint pen? Is there a favored brand? Many brands will sell paint pens from dealerships that are exactly the right paint code. Worth calling and asking. I did this for my Subaru years ago. E: I think it was like a nail polish bottle, not a pen actually but worked fine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 19:09
|
|
|
Rotten Red Rod posted:window tint I would get new tint and let the tint installer deal with the old stuff.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 19:19
|
|
|
So I've got a 2005 Toyota Avalon with a falling apart rack and pinion bellows and I'm having a hell of a time trying to find replacement hardware. I figure I'm going to go ahead and replace the tie rod, I'm pretty sure I have the right hardware except for the bellows clamps that I can't find anywhere. How big of a deal would it be to just find some appropriate sized hose clamps and throw those on or something? Or maybe it's just that I'm just bad at searching for parts?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 19:55
|
|
|
Based solely on the picture of new bellows on rockauto, they just use zipties It's not a spinning part so hose clamps would probably give a little more peace of mind. Have you checked the box they came in to see if there is included hardware? Kits for some vehicles come with crimp on/spring clamps but that's probably more a a cost saving measure. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 20:13
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Many brands will sell paint pens from dealerships that are exactly the right paint code. Worth calling and asking. I did this for my Subaru years ago. Fair enough, thank you!
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 20:15
|
|
|
Our tires are getting close to replacement and the tire place quoted us for low, mid, and high tier tires. I'm just wondering what you get when you get nicer tires. I have no idea, I've never replaced car tires. Our use case is occasional commuting on city roads but mostly driving out to adventures in the PNW, including gravel forest service roads and snowy or blustery-rainy mountain passes. We do have chains for when the passes are snowy. If it means anything, the options are the Stratus, the Road Control NW3, and the Reputation NLW3, for a Honda HRV with AWD.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 22:06
|
|
|
alnilam posted:Our tires are getting close to replacement and the tire place quoted us for low, mid, and high tier tires. I'm just wondering what you get when you get nicer tires. I have no idea, I've never replaced car tires. Our use case is occasional commuting on city roads but mostly driving out to adventures in the PNW, including gravel forest service roads and snowy or blustery-rainy mountain passes. We do have chains for when the passes are snowy. hi al  tires make a bigger difference than any other wear part imo and good ones are worth getting . there are lots of different things they can be engineered for, like being quiet or efficient or lasting a long time or traction in different conditions but there is def a lot of difference between them. tire rack has lots of nice charts and stats and reviews you can check out whether you're buying stuff there or not, i don't know those specific tires off the top of my head
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 22:16
|
|
|
Powershift posted:Based solely on the picture of new bellows on rockauto, they just use zipties The bellows currently on the car use clamps like from your second image and hopefully I can re-use those, but I'm not keen on zip ties if not. The box for the bellows comes only with the bellows itself. There are some kits that come with fasteners but I haven't been able to find any for my car that do. If there's not a reason hose clamps won't work then I'll probably grab some.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2021 23:47
|
|
|
Since the Pontiac Vibe is a re-badged Toyota Matrix, where would you buy replacement OEM parts and fluids from- a Toyota dealership or a GM dealership?
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2021 03:22
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Since the Pontiac Vibe is a re-badged Toyota Matrix, where would you buy replacement OEM parts and fluids from- a Toyota dealership or a GM dealership? There are very few parts that need to or should be OEM and absolutely no fluids. It's just a waste of money. Absolutely no regular maintenance parts need to come from the dealer/be OEM on something that common. I'm not saying buy the cheapest junk from the parts store. But also don't pay dealership markup. What specifically are you talking about?
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2021 04:15
|
|
|
Motronic posted:There are very few parts that need to or should be OEM and absolutely no fluids. It's just a waste of money. Absolutely no regular maintenance parts need to come from the dealer/be OEM on something that common. While we're on the topic- which aftermarket brands haven't gone to poo poo? I've heard that Mevotech quality has gone downhill and so has Brembo's. AC Delco seems to get mixed reviews. Every year it seems like there are less and less reliable options for aftermarket parts. melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Dec 25, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2021 04:37
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Steamer This worked, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2021 04:37
|
|
|
GOD IS BED posted:Quoting this for emphasis because I took out a couple of defroster lines using a plastic scraper on my old Thunderbird when I removed the tint. Be super careful around them. I cut a number of traces while removing the ugly purple tint on my first car's windows. (And it was an MX-3 so there were a lot of defroster traces and they were pretty important). Fortunately they sell little pens you can use to reconnect the lines by drawing over the cut part. https://www.lawsonproducts.com/lawson/Defroster-Grid-Repair-Pen-Fast-Drying/P68551.lp
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2021 05:26
|
|
|
melon cat posted:there are certain things I only go OEM for due to fitment issues, like radiator hoses and brake/coolant/transmission fluids. That's quite a list of things I would never buy form the dealer. What do you think is special about brake fluid? Coolant is also easy: there are specific types and they are made to standards, just like brake fluid. Trans oil is largely the same other than some very rare exceptions with very bad transmissions that you probably can't save anyway, none of which are in toyotas. melon cat posted:While we're on the topic- which aftermarket brands haven't gone to poo poo? I've heard that Mevotech quality has gone downhill and so has Brembo's. AC Delco seems to get mixed reviews. Every year it seems like there are less and less reliable options for aftermarket parts. Not a real useful way to approach this other than generally the never-buys: uro, What you should be doing is finding out who mad the parts for the OEM and buying it from them. Examples: most porsche filters are Mahle, most brake pads are Ate. A ton of euro car components are the same; if electronics are probably Bosch. But what are you looking for here? What you can find at your local retail parts place or what you can order online? There's a world of difference.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2021 05:30
|
|
|
Isn’t concentrated Toyota red coolant about the same price as the third party equivalent? That’s one I’ve gone to the Toyota dealership for before.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2021 08:44
|
|
|
Avoid Dorman parts like the plague.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2021 11:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 17:19 |
|
|
Maybe I'm getting my definitions mixed up but I always thought OEM was the manufacturer of the parts that the car maker uses.It stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. They're the ones that actually make the parts that go in your car, only when you get them from the car mfg. they'll have the car brand branding on it. The OEM will sell the part, or something very close it, without the branding directly to the market. So you do want OEM parts. They're usually a lot cheaper than dealer parts but just as good because they're the same part or 99% the same.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2021 11:14
|
|