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Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

It's not for anything specific I just realized my home was without one. A small kitchen type would be best just curious if going with the home depot cheapo would be okay

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TWBalls
Apr 16, 2003
My medication never lies

Gonna Send It posted:

I have these and love them, it also looks like snap on is branding them for themselves as well:

https://www.ernstmfg.com/Socket-Organizer-Trays-Socket-Boss.aspx

Super convenient to just unsnap the whole rail and take it with you.

I have a mix of these & Tekton rails. They appear to be the same. Ernst has a bigger selection of sizes & colors though.
I'd like to find something that can hold deep-well sockets a bit better though. I just moved and a couple of the bigger sockets worked their way off of the clip some time during the move.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Virgil Vox posted:

It's not for anything specific I just realized my home was without one. A small kitchen type would be best just curious if going with the home depot cheapo would be okay

It's still worth spending the money one a legit metal one with a brass valve. They're available as scratch and dent from eBay for not-crazy money: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fire-Extinguisher-10Lb-ABC-Dry-Chemical-SCRATCH-DENT-/261689144467

Or: https://www.ebay.com/itm/FIRE-EXTINGUISHER-10lb-ABC-SCRATCH-DIrty-SET-OF-2-/121744806270

The best thing about these is that you can get them refilled and they'll last decades. My fire service company just swaps mine out once a year for surprisingly little money. If you needa smaller one for under the kitchen sink, get a 5#.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FIRE-EXTINGUISHER-5lb-Abc-Scratch-Dirty-Set-of-2-/121996247510

The little 2# ones from Home Depot are basically junk. Plastic handle, plastic valve, non-refillable. Buy once, cry once.

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


Virgil Vox posted:

It's not for anything specific I just realized my home was without one. A small kitchen type would be best just curious if going with the home depot cheapo would be okay

Consider a fire blanket in addition to extinguishers. A blanket is way less mess if it can do the job.

I think bigger is better so long as whoever is using it can still get to the thing and manipulate it. A 20lb extinguisher that's buried in the back of a closet is probably less useful than a 2.5lb near the stove.

I've got a mix of kidde and first alert but I've never had to use them so...

Galler fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Dec 20, 2021

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Majere posted:

Please call your local Fire Extinguisher Company for anything other than a small household extinguisher you would keep in the kitchen. They will have the one you need for the type of fire..uh...expected.. and/or valuable equipment you don't want ruined by the chemicals.

My fire alarm contractor hooked me up with recharged 5 lbs and 2.5 lbs Halon extinguishers. Right now they are doing duty in the lab, but I think the smaller one will end up in my van pretty soon.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Can anyone recommend a bulb for a garage door opener that

a: Is brighter than lighting a fart
b: Doesn't interfere with the receiver?

My opener recommends a cfl which blows. I tried one of my LEDs and the receiver wont work.... guess it's radio interference.

I think the max wattage is something like ~50W

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Is it just a standard socket?

You can actually buy garage door opener specific led bulbs.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/chamberlain-the-garage-door-opener-led-bulb/1001581006

There is probably fire related reasons not to but how about a socket to plug and a led light strip some distance from the opener?

Powershift fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Dec 21, 2021

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
It’s also a feature you can search for.

Honestly, though, the garage door light is on so little that you may as well use an A19 halogen or whatever the thing is rated for. Nothing is cleaner than a resistive load.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

slidebite posted:

Can anyone recommend a bulb for a garage door opener that

a: Is brighter than lighting a fart
b: Doesn't interfere with the receiver?

My opener recommends a cfl which blows. I tried one of my LEDs and the receiver wont work.... guess it's radio interference.

I think the max wattage is something like ~50W

Huh. I wonder if that's why my remotes all kind of suck.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

The one thing the manual was explicit about was not to use a halogen bulb - but I am surprised that low/no interference rated LEDs is actually a thing - I guess I shouldn't be. I'm guessing it's a heat thing and it would probably be OK for the short time, but with my luck...

I have decent LEDs for my main garage lighting, but if I turn on the garage light only (I have the option) it lights for 5 min or until after the opener cycles, so it's handy for getting into the vehicle in the dark, which is quite often this time of year. Otherwise I need to turn on the main lights which will stay on until I return.

StormDrain posted:

Huh. I wonder if that's why my remotes all kind of suck.
Yeah it's totally a thing. If you want to experiment, just remove the bulb completely and see how your remote works.

Powershift posted:

There is probably fire related reasons not to but how about a socket to plug and a led light strip some distance from the opener?
I did actually think of that some time ago, but abandoned the idea for a reason I can't remember. I'll give some thought to that again.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I have tons of LED lights in the garage and I never notice a problem with garage door remotes... because I don't use them. I use Home Assistant app on my phone to interface with a Z-Wave relay box that hits the toggle button. Bonus: I put in an automation where it can "press" the button for 15 seconds solid in case the fragile safety lasers get knocked out of adjustment.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Galler posted:

I think bigger is better so long as whoever is using it can still get to the thing and manipulate it. A 20lb extinguisher that's buried in the back of a closet is probably less useful than a 2.5lb near the stove.


I'm a strict adherent to mounting fire extinguishers to the wall, next to my apartment door. That way there's no chance of me rushing further into a fire in order to get the extinguisher.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
User name and post.

Story checks out.

JoshGuitar
Oct 25, 2005

Safety Dance posted:

I'm a strict adherent to mounting fire extinguishers to the wall, next to my apartment door. That way there's no chance of me rushing further into a fire in order to get the extinguisher.

Unless the fire is between you and the door :v:

_Loser_
Dec 8, 2005

Gaymu for Teemu
Back to socket holder chat, galaxy brain option is to 3d print your own custom fit to the tray. I've done these for a few boxes now and basically they just need 0.5mm larger than the diameter of the socket to fit well. You can emboss the size into the tray and fill it in with a paint marker to make it pop.

Here's my autodesk inventor files for previous designs:
https://www.thingiverse.com/rhosler/designs

Only registered members can see post attachments!

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Yeah I really need to start printing stuff more. I was pretty disappointed with the results that the expensive as hell foam inlays for my tool cabinet produced. I mean it works but is also kinda meh for many of the tools. I think first on the list of designing and printing are holders for my Bosch 12V drills and some holders for our electric toothbrushes that I can 3M tape to the mirror so that they don't stand on water after use.
Blender here I come I guess.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
i think i'll end up doing something similar for my 1/4 sockets when i get a 3d printer in the next year or so.

i have kaizenfoam shadowbox for my 1/2 and 3/8 sockets but still need to do my wrenches

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal

_Loser_ posted:

Back to socket holder chat, galaxy brain option is to 3d print your own custom fit to the tray. I've done these for a few boxes now and basically they just need 0.5mm larger than the diameter of the socket to fit well. You can emboss the size into the tray and fill it in with a paint marker to make it pop.

Here's my autodesk inventor files for previous designs:
https://www.thingiverse.com/rhosler/designs



This is an excellent idea! Thanks for the link, I just got my 3d printer back up and running and tool storage is a great project idea. Might pick up some neodymium magnets and play around printing some recesses on the backside and gluing them in for custom magnetic storage trays. Like add a handle and split sockets up into rails

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING


The BAHCO 141 was the best nutcracker I tried today, though the KNIPEX Cobra wasn't too shabby either.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
So I'm thinking that it's time to get a caliper for more accurate measuring (especially if I'm going to start doing my own 3D print models). However, are digital calipers that much better to have, or am I better off getting an analogue one but from a (what I understand) good well known brand like Mitutoyo?
Any recommendations in general?

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Dec 25, 2021

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

MrOnBicycle posted:

So I'm thinking that it's time to get a caliper for more accurate measuring (especially if I'm going to start doing my own 3D print models). However, are digital calipers that much better to have, or am I better off getting an analogue one but from a (what I understand) good well known brand like Mitutoyo?
Any recommendations in general?

My recommendation is always these
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00KDUD67G
Absolute origin, don't drain the battery, and as accurate as you can expect from any calipers.

If you want something slightly cheaper, these are also great. Also don't have the battery drain problem that really cheap digital calipers have.
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W

I've got a couple of each of those that receive varying degrees of abuse, they all still work great.

e: Also, if you want to just buy once, Mitutoyo digital calipers are about $130
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Dec 25, 2021

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Hypnolobster posted:

My recommendation is always these
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00KDUD67G
Absolute origin, don't drain the battery, and as accurate as you can expect from any calipers.

Thanks!
As lovely as a Mitsutoyo would be, I think I'll stick with your first recommendation if I can find it for sale in the EU.

Could always upgrade in the future if I find myself in need of higher quality (doubtful).

Edit: Just took the import and shipping hit and got it from the US. Thanks again for the help :)

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Dec 25, 2021

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
I have two of those and like them for my use (measuring stuff to 3D model or to check if a part was made). If I need anything more precise, I get a machinist to do it as I don't have the equipment nor the skill to use it.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Honestly, I find myself grabbing my inherited dial calipers more often than the digital ones. They're never dead and even if they only read in inches, it's really not that much of a pain to convert 2.717 inches to metric if I need to.

Or I just work in some horrible mashup of metric and imperial, like a British Leyland engineer.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
7.94mm x 1.41 bolts are my favorite

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


I can take apart a Morris Marina using only a 0.034 Hands socket.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

Those igaging calipers are great at that price point, very good battery life and they feel solid.

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




Shars makes some very decent ones now. A little clunky, but they feel nice and have a good display. My battery has lasted a year or so since I got it, so not so bad. https://www.shars.com/aventor-6-large-screen-ip54-electronic-caliper
DPS/Absolute style here: https://www.shars.com/products/measuring/caliper/aventor-6-dps-ip54-electronic-caliper

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I got some new ratchets for Christmas. A set of three Husky full polish (1/4", 3/8", 1/2") 144-toothers, a (Lowe's) Craftsman 1/4" swivel head, and a Ryobi 3/8" cordless electric unit.

Ryobi stuff has a big-rear end battery, so the ratchet has a head that can turn around relative to the body of the ratchet to help aid access in cramped quarters. It isn't a brushless unit, but if you need tons of power, you probably shouldn't be using an electric ratchet in the first place.

I know Ryobi isn't the greatest, but the array of tools on offer is just bananas and I have a whole bunch of them. The cordless inflator is a summertime favorite for pool toys and game balls (and is set-and-forget for filling a leaky tire since it can fill to a set pressure), and the Bluetooth/AM/FM speaker got daily use when my daughter was small enough for the stroller. We have a Ryobi stick vac for in the house just to keep the total number of battery varieties to a minimum. The stick vac isn't super powerful and the debris can is pretty freaking small, but it is super convenient to just pick up and vacuum for a minute when I see some Pop-Tart crumbs or a tumbleweed of dog hair on the wood floor.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
I now have a lifetime supply of belt sander belts for both the handheld and bench unit; my mom brought up another load of boxes/tools from my dad’s workshop. I also got an upgrade to my current belt sander so the old one went into the box as a spare before it all got chucked into the basement.

Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003
Picked this up off a good friend of mine a while back
9' South Bend Lathe -- from 1943.

Needed a motor as the old one's wiring was just falling apart, machine is damned near mint otherwise. :

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



PBCrunch posted:

I have tons of LED lights in the garage and I never notice a problem with garage door remotes... because I don't use them. I use Home Assistant app on my phone to interface with a Z-Wave relay box that hits the toggle button. Bonus: I put in an automation where it can "press" the button for 15 seconds solid in case the fragile safety lasers get knocked out of adjustment.

Have you been happy with Home Assistant? I just recently got some Kasa smart plugs and LED bulbs just to play around with it but I want to branch out across different brands (Kasa doesn't make BR30 bulbs anymore) so I was planning on openhab or HA. I was going to go with openhab because honestly I prefer software written in java instead of python for things that need to be reliable and aren't one offs (even though everything I write now is in python), but after doing more reading I think HA sounds like a sleeker and more modern approach. I've been running Linux on the desktop for > 20 years so it's not like I'm scared of config files, but I also don't have that much time to mess around with it.

I have the same issue trying to figure out zwave vs zigbee. Sounds like zwave is better overall but I noticed the devices tend to be more expensive. I guess a lot of the hubs do both now, but I'm just starting to look into it so I'm not well versed in how it all works.

In other tool news, has anyone tried using an ozone generator to remove an incredibly strong garlic smell from a fridge? My friend just moved into a new place that came with a very nice fridge but it absolutely reeks of garlic. She's taken everything out, washed with soap, bleach, etc, but it still smells. I've had luck in the past with putting a bunch of baking soda in the fridge and just toughing it out for a month or two, but she's trying to accelerate the process. Obviously would have to do it when we're not in the house and leave all the doors and windows open.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

MomJeans420 posted:

Have you been happy with Home Assistant? I just recently got some Kasa smart plugs and LED bulbs just to play around with it but I want to branch out across different brands (Kasa doesn't make BR30 bulbs anymore) so I was planning on openhab or HA. I was going to go with openhab because honestly I prefer software written in java instead of python for things that need to be reliable and aren't one offs (even though everything I write now is in python), but after doing more reading I think HA sounds like a sleeker and more modern approach. I've been running Linux on the desktop for > 20 years so it's not like I'm scared of config files, but I also don't have that much time to mess around with it.

I have the same issue trying to figure out zwave vs zigbee. Sounds like zwave is better overall but I noticed the devices tend to be more expensive. I guess a lot of the hubs do both now, but I'm just starting to look into it so I'm not well versed in how it all works.

HA has far surpassed OpenHAB for a while now. They are doing a lot of polish work at this point. It fails safe, backups and restoring backups from a new system actually just works, etc.

Same with ZWava vs Zigbee. I think that race is over, and the more expensive licensed ZWave won. I still picked up a Zigbee stick just in case, but I've yet to even install it. ZWave just works, especially with the new implementation in HA and with sufficient powered devices to act as relays for larger areas/homes.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I like Home Assistant quite a bit, but it is an evolving project. If you stay up-to-date, you will have to change some things every once in a while. I have in my setup:

Z-wave
Zigbee sensors and switches (mostly Aqara (Xiaomi))
lots of Tasmota (ESP8266) devices (Shelly, Sonoff, homebrew)
some Orbit Bluetooth hose timers that approximate a sprinkler system
some Tuya outdoor floodlights that cycle different colors depending on holiday
a Zoneminder-based surveillance setup

Home Assistant combines it all pretty well. My wife has no idea that some of the stuff is homemade and some of it is Zigbee and some is Z-wave. I tend to use Zigbee for outdoor stuff since it doesn't connect to my Wi-Fi. I have this paranoia that someone might somehow take apart an outdoor Wi-Fi device and extract my Wi-Fi credentials. I use Z-wave for things where security is something of a concern. I have a Sonoff TI Zigbee 3.0 dongle and a Z-Wave.me USB dongle so I don't have any hubs. Zigbee and Z-Wave are both pretty good and an upgrade over Wi-Fi IMO, but everything Z-wave is ~50% more expensive. Z-wave is more of an Apple-y walled garden kind of experience if that's what you want. Zigbee has more variety in device types. The only thing I've looked for that I could get as Z-wave but couldn't find a Zigbee equivalent was a battery-powered tilt sensor for my garage door. I could have hacked up a Zigbee magnetic switch to work, but I didn't have a lot of time and I wanted something turn-key.

I have a Genie Aladdin garage door, but that platform has turned into absolute dogshit from a reliability perspective.

The Home Assistant app is pretty good at this point on Android and iOS, but there are subtle differences that can drive you a little nuts if you have to support both in the same house.

The thing about Home Assistant that bugs me the most is how they really want you to run it on their base system. That means you either run it on a Raspberry Pi (they also support running it on a couple of other SBCs) or on their Linux image on a VM or on a NUC. You can deploy using Docker, but the experience is neutered in some ways I can't remember off the top of my head. I don't trust anything running on a microSD card for anything important so I run Home Assistant in a VM on an Intel machine. I also seem to recall something about Home Assistant wanting full control of your sound card when running directly on your hardware.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Dec 28, 2021

MrPete
May 17, 2007

MomJeans420 posted:

In other tool news, has anyone tried using an ozone generator to remove an incredibly strong garlic smell from a fridge? My friend just moved into a new place that came with a very nice fridge but it absolutely reeks of garlic.
I've had good luck removing smells in jars and bottles by rinsing and wiping everything down with vinegar, once it dissipates it takes the original smell with it. Can't imagine why it wouldn't work in a fridge.

I've been told in the past that vanilla extract can help with stinky fridges and microwaves as well. Don't have first hand knowledge of that one though.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

MrPete posted:

I've had good luck removing smells in jars and bottles by rinsing and wiping everything down with vinegar, once it dissipates it takes the original smell with it. Can't imagine why it wouldn't work in a fridge.

I've been told in the past that vanilla extract can help with stinky fridges and microwaves as well. Don't have first hand knowledge of that one though.

I would try anything like this, including any other cleaners I could, before using ozone on some unknown plastic that I can't spot test ahead of time. I'm just picturing some scenario where you come back a few hours later and the entire inside shell of the fridge is tan and brittle.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Put a shitload of activated charcoal and a fan inside the fridge for a while?

More content related to my Home Assistant comment above: I used the Node-Red plug-in for Home Assistant to create a flow that pulls down the online inventory from the local self-service junkyard and gives me a daily report of vehicles that I have marked as interesting (parts relevant to vehicles I own).

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Dec 29, 2021

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Lol no one knows to leave baking soda in fridges?

Take everything out, scrub it down, then open a package of baking soda or two, date it, and put it in the back near the vents.

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/baking-soda-in-fridge/

Salami Surgeon
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.


Nap Ghost
Whenever I buy a new cooler, I use coffee beans to get rid of the plastic smell. I have no idea where I picked that up, but it hasn't failed me yet. No idea if it works on food smells either, but it will probably be the first thing I try when I run into that problem.

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Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

um excuse me posted:

Lol no one knows to leave baking soda in fridges?

Take everything out, scrub it down, then open a package of baking soda or two, date it, and put it in the back near the vents.

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/baking-soda-in-fridge/

MomJeans420 posted:

...
In other tool news, has anyone tried using an ozone generator to remove an incredibly strong garlic smell from a fridge? My friend just moved into a new place that came with a very nice fridge but it absolutely reeks of garlic. She's taken everything out, washed with soap, bleach, etc, but it still smells. I've had luck in the past with putting a bunch of baking soda in the fridge and just toughing it out for a month or two, but she's trying to accelerate the process. Obviously would have to do it when we're not in the house and leave all the doors and windows open.

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