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Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Lutron Caseta, Hues, an AR-15

Pick 2

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That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Lutron Caseta, Hues, an AR-15

Pick 2

And or a dog

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug
Fentanyl gas filled Claymore mines.

Binary Badger
Oct 11, 2005

Trolling Link for a decade


Insurrectum posted:

Well this is fun. I believe our house was cased. At around 10PM I'm sitting at my in-laws and just so happened to flick on my Wyze cam when I see a car parked in front of our house. Not a big deal, happens sometimes—we live in a fairly dense suburb and our neighbors often have people over, and I wouldn't be surprised if he hosted a Christmas party. But then two young (early/mid 20s, african american) guys jump out, and they do NOT look like my (middle-aged white guy) neighbors buddies. They then proceed to go up to our door, knock, wait a minute, and then leave. While leaving, the one guy turns around and scans our bedroom windows, definitely trying to see if someone's home.

Nope. Not fun, should have just turned on the siren (all the Wyze cams have one) if the Wyze is mounted outside.

quote:

After showing the videos to my wife and inlaws, everyone agrees they look suspicious. I then called the police to report it, and also called our friends in the area to drop by and turn on all of our lights. The police said they'd drive by (they never did :shrug:), but our friends did come over.

Unless a crime actually occurred, like them swiping a flower pot or breaking a window, they'd likely show up, but if no crime occurred they're not going to bother, unless you're connected to someone in the precinct..

quote:

I then proceeded to watch the cameras like a hawk and kind of felt like a paranoid idiot until, lo and behold, the same car comes around 2:00AM and makes a U-Turn when they see our lights are on. Thankfully I have cameras stationed all around my house so I'm able to keep watch, but I think I'm going to have to really up my deterrent/security game.

The Lutron / Hue suggestions would work if they could be set up to turn your lights on or throw a spotlight at the entrance, but it'd be the same as turning on the Wyze sirens or turning on the speaker and yelling at them.

Dog useful if you feel like the upkeep, but slightly more of a deterrent than the sirens.

AR-15, depends on stand your ground laws in your state and you actually being in the house when they drop by.. The Fentanyl mines would also be pretty harmful to your neighbors and open you to lawsuits if they go off while your neighbor's grabbing his morning paper..

Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Dec 28, 2021

movax
Aug 30, 2008

I just got a dog. He’s a furry white little guy whose nose and ears still pick up things faster than my UniFi cameras / motion floodlights / whatever. Dogs rule

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I realize this violates Motoronic's rule of automation, but is there some kind of switch/button/trigger that can be installed in place of a standard switch, that doesn't actually "switch" anything, but just exists to send a signal to something like Home Assistant to trigger something?

Lester Shy
May 1, 2002

Goodness no, now that wouldn't do at all!
Can I just say how much I hate motion sensors? I've picked up a handful of dumb motion sensing indoor and outdoor lights over the past few years, and maybe one out of five consistently works how it's supposed to. I know it's my fault for being a total cheapskate, but still.

Dark Knight
Dec 13, 2008


FISHMANPET posted:

I realize this violates Motoronic's rule of automation, but is there some kind of switch/button/trigger that can be installed in place of a standard switch, that doesn't actually "switch" anything, but just exists to send a signal to something like Home Assistant to trigger something?

You should be able to use just about any neutral wired smart switch and just not attach anything to the load. Alternatively use something like an Inovelli switch and disable local load control.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FISHMANPET posted:

I realize this violates Motoronic's rule of automation, but is there some kind of switch/button/trigger that can be installed in place of a standard switch, that doesn't actually "switch" anything, but just exists to send a signal to something like Home Assistant to trigger something?

Eh, I've played with stuff like that to set scenes and kick off "automations" so that's not really something I'd consider against what I do. It's just that all of those devices being controlled have actual, real switches somewhere sensible that would make for a useful house/useful devices if the automation is turned off.

I'm actually looking for a decent "scene controller" type device for setting lighting presets/scenes (what's on/off and dimming levels) in different rooms so I don't have to play around with multiple switches.

I bought some battery powered 4 or 5 button little thing (I think a Zooz) and tossed it back in a box when it didn't play nicely when paired with HA, but that was all pre-zwaveJS. I should give it a try again.

Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.
I know a couple of people that swear by the Tradfri remote but I've never used it myself.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.

Scruff McGruff posted:

I know a couple of people that swear by the Tradfri remote but I've never used it myself.

I have a couple and they work great but they do seem to go through CR2032s pretty fast. And swapping batteries will sometimes cause the device to be forgotten but not always, it could have been me loving it up somehow but it was annoying rejoining it. But on other occasions I have swapped the battery without incident so I dunno.

The tradfri dimmer switch was loving awful and thankfully they took that off the market and they let me return mine for refund. They were neat ideas but in practice terrible - magnetic circles that would dim when twisted one way. It was way too easy to bump them out of their base though and they would usually break when falling on the floor and they went thru batteries even faster that the other remotes. I think they have regular switch type dimmers now.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Lester Shy posted:

Can I just say how much I hate motion sensors? I've picked up a handful of dumb motion sensing indoor and outdoor lights over the past few years, and maybe one out of five consistently works how it's supposed to. I know it's my fault for being a total cheapskate, but still.

I really like my Lutron Maestros, no complaints besides wishing a Caseta version existed so I could modify their brightness levels based on time of day.

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!

FISHMANPET posted:

I realize this violates Motoronic's rule of automation, but is there some kind of switch/button/trigger that can be installed in place of a standard switch, that doesn't actually "switch" anything, but just exists to send a signal to something like Home Assistant to trigger something?

This won't help if you want to do more than lighting, but the Lutron Aurora dimmer knobs pop on over a standard wall switch. They talk to Home Assistant, and they can also pair directly with one or more smart bulbs. These states can generally co-exist, with some minor caveats.

If my Home Assistant instance goes down (which has happened all of once in the nine months I've been using it), my Auroras can still control the lights from the physical knob.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

Motronic posted:

You can absolutely do that in HA built in automations. They've gotten good enough that I've recently moved everything into them out of node red, which never really was very tightly integrated enough to be comfortable to work in.

I think a concept you might want to consider for something like this is "desired state". For example, my outdoor lighting comes on at 30% brightness at sundown and turns off at 10:30 PM. If you open the front door or the driveway sensor is tripped it ramps to 100% for 10 minutes. I have an input_boolean that is set to "true" at sundown and "false" at 10:30 PM. The automation that turns it to true is called "Outdoor lighting state change: on for sunset", and the automation that actually triggers the lights to turn on is using a condition of "automation.outdoor_light_state_change_on_for_sunset". Convoluted way to actually turn them on, but now I've got a way to check the desired state no matter what happens with the switch manually, and my other automations use that in order to put things back into the desired state.

You could use that desired concept the opposite way, by using an automation trigger of a manual switch change to trigger a state which might, for example be a "condition" of completing your automation of a morning ramp-up. A manual switch change triggers changing that "state" to something that your series of ramp-up automations are looking at and will simply not run if it's set.

Thanks--I got this sorted out and moved my fledgling automations in node red out to HA as well. Now that I'm starting to grok it I see a lot of neat stuff I can do.

CheddarGoblin
Jan 12, 2005
oh

FISHMANPET posted:

I realize this violates Motoronic's rule of automation, but is there some kind of switch/button/trigger that can be installed in place of a standard switch, that doesn't actually "switch" anything, but just exists to send a signal to something like Home Assistant to trigger something?

Inovelli switches will let you do this.

azurite
Jul 25, 2010

Strange, isn't it?!


FISHMANPET posted:

I realize this violates Motoronic's rule of automation, but is there some kind of switch/button/trigger that can be installed in place of a standard switch, that doesn't actually "switch" anything, but just exists to send a signal to something like Home Assistant to trigger something?

There are Z-Wave "scene controllers" which resemble remote controls that you can just stick to a switch plate or wherever is convenient.

Cornjob
Jun 12, 2007

NOT AN ACTOR
My kitchen has 5 light switches.

1 switch for dining area
1 switch for over sink/ cans over countertops
1 switch for ceiling can lights by cabinets
2 switches at opposite ends of the room that are wired as 3-way for the cans that span the entire kitchen/dining room

In order to turn all the lights on, i have to walk to 3 different places in the kitchen to tuen them all on.

Id like to have the ability control all the lights with a single switch that has presets for all the lights, with dimming ability…. preferably at two or all of the locations. Does the 2 three-way switches complicate things?

Im assuming a bridge type system can link them all?

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

I'm going to guess that a Lutron Caseta dimmer with a bunch of wall-mounted Pico remotes could handle them all on one. If you get a dimmer with a neutral required, they have the "favorite" button in the middle, where you can set a favorite dim level and it will instantly go to that. The Pico remote also has a favorite button.

Cornjob
Jun 12, 2007

NOT AN ACTOR

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

I'm going to guess that a Lutron Caseta dimmer with a bunch of wall-mounted Pico remotes could handle them all on one. If you get a dimmer with a neutral required, they have the "favorite" button in the middle, where you can set a favorite dim level and it will instantly go to that. The Pico remote also has a favorite button.

Thank you. So no issue with three way switches?

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Cornjob posted:

Thank you. So no issue with three way switches?

I don't use any in a 3-way configuration, so I wouldn't be the best to answer this, but I was considering doing some 3-ways in the future with that setup. Other people in this thread have Caseta's in a 3-way config I believe that could chime in better than I.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

I don't use any in a 3-way configuration, so I wouldn't be the best to answer this, but I was considering doing some 3-ways in the future with that setup. Other people in this thread have Caseta's in a 3-way config I believe that could chime in better than I.

You can use the advanced guide to wire in Casetas with mechanical 3-way switches but the standard install prefers you replace the mech switch with a Pico and jumper the traveler / load wires where it used to be.

I have a staircase where I have a Caseta switch and kept the mech switch because I don’t need the dimmer or a remote there.

Kalman
Jan 17, 2010

Cornjob posted:

My kitchen has 5 light switches.

1 switch for dining area
1 switch for over sink/ cans over countertops
1 switch for ceiling can lights by cabinets
2 switches at opposite ends of the room that are wired as 3-way for the cans that span the entire kitchen/dining room

In order to turn all the lights on, i have to walk to 3 different places in the kitchen to tuen them all on.

Id like to have the ability control all the lights with a single switch that has presets for all the lights, with dimming ability…. preferably at two or all of the locations. Does the 2 three-way switches complicate things?

Im assuming a bridge type system can link them all?

You could do this with zwave switches (including the three way, though you may need an accessory switch at the other location). Can either use a bridge to control or set them up so that they all cross-control each other. (For a bridge example - with my Inovelli switches that are controlling two sets of lights in a room, a single tap controls the light it’s connected to, double tap sets the other lights, and triple tap sets all lights.)

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
I had some cabinets made and put in some lighting. The day before the guy showed up to install them I made my plan and ordered the stuff. Since they are LED strips and connected to the smart home I wanted to do a little write up here in case y'all were interested:




This back wall is about 10' long and you can see with the soffett I had 11 cabinet "bays" to light. The bookshelves are about 12" deep and the workspace in the front is another 12".

Normally I would just get Warm white LEDs but since this was my office / posting den I decided to get RGB as well. So my plan was to mount them in aluminum channels with diffusers on the tops, about 1/3 of the way back so they could still illuminate the front of my books.

I was so late on this the carpenter didn't bring anything to cut dados so I just ended up mounting the channel with clips screwed to the shelf. I decided to do home runs for each light strip rather than daisy-chain. Since I had to land 5 conductors at each strip, I wanted to be able to know if something went wrong and easily identify/repair. I knew if I did not do this, I would screw something up. Anyway on to the BOM:


My shelves after my carpenter left the second day and I tore some more holes and started routing cables. I went over a few different routing strategies with him but when he was gone I figured out the best way was to home run everything to the rightmost undercounter cabinet, where I had ample electrical outlets and it would be out of the way.


Here's where everything ran to, I mounted barrier strips to keep each light's conductors somewhat organized by position for troubleshooting. If I had to do this again I would probably just use some 66 blocks. You can also see my Zigbee controller in position.


Here it is all wired up. I'd like this to look more organized but it's OK. The gamepads came later as that cabinet became much needed storage.

I didn't get a picture of me soldering the strips but I tinned the connectors and conductors, put heat shrink tubing over the cable, soldered, put liquid tape on the exposed parts, then put the heat shrink into place and shrank that up. All that got done and mounted before the carpenter came back to finish.

And then...

It works! Looks much more impressive than on the reel!

And bonus: I'm ready for when they reboot Ecto Cooler Hi-C!



I'm very happy with the finished product. And now it's on home assistant and the hue app so I can tie it to my other lights and mess with it. For Christmas I had it switch between red and green every 15 seconds. Very gimmicky but that's how I wanted it.

Yes I know my framing/finishers in this office are hilarious... it's amazing what you don't notice is square until you get someone meticulous up next to it.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Hed posted:

I had some cabinets made and put in some lighting. The day before the guy showed up to install them I made my plan and ordered the stuff. Since they are LED strips and connected to the smart home I wanted to do a little write up here in case y'all were interested:




This back wall is about 10' long and you can see with the soffett I had 11 cabinet "bays" to light. The bookshelves are about 12" deep and the workspace in the front is another 12".

Normally I would just get Warm white LEDs but since this was my office / posting den I decided to get RGB as well. So my plan was to mount them in aluminum channels with diffusers on the tops, about 1/3 of the way back so they could still illuminate the front of my books.

I was so late on this the carpenter didn't bring anything to cut dados so I just ended up mounting the channel with clips screwed to the shelf. I decided to do home runs for each light strip rather than daisy-chain. Since I had to land 5 conductors at each strip, I wanted to be able to know if something went wrong and easily identify/repair. I knew if I did not do this, I would screw something up. Anyway on to the BOM:


My shelves after my carpenter left the second day and I tore some more holes and started routing cables. I went over a few different routing strategies with him but when he was gone I figured out the best way was to home run everything to the rightmost undercounter cabinet, where I had ample electrical outlets and it would be out of the way.


Here's where everything ran to, I mounted barrier strips to keep each light's conductors somewhat organized by position for troubleshooting. If I had to do this again I would probably just use some 66 blocks. You can also see my Zigbee controller in position.


Here it is all wired up. I'd like this to look more organized but it's OK. The gamepads came later as that cabinet became much needed storage.

I didn't get a picture of me soldering the strips but I tinned the connectors and conductors, put heat shrink tubing over the cable, soldered, put liquid tape on the exposed parts, then put the heat shrink into place and shrank that up. All that got done and mounted before the carpenter came back to finish.

And then...

It works! Looks much more impressive than on the reel!

And bonus: I'm ready for when they reboot Ecto Cooler Hi-C!



I'm very happy with the finished product. And now it's on home assistant and the hue app so I can tie it to my other lights and mess with it. For Christmas I had it switch between red and green every 15 seconds. Very gimmicky but that's how I wanted it.

Yes I know my framing/finishers in this office are hilarious... it's amazing what you don't notice is square until you get someone meticulous up next to it.

Nice work! Thanks for this I am in the planning stages right now of a dining room wall built in that I wanted to wire up and light very similarly.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Does anyone here use any garage door integration with Home Assistant? I was thinking about doing it for presence detection and fixing my crappy remote.

Thanks to movax's posts I saw Tailwind and I like the idea of "pair with car bluetooth so that it comes up / goes down automatically" but it looks like any integration with HA is a joke. I was interested in using it for presence detection or at least to turn internal lights on if the house was dark.

There's also OpenGarage but that looks almost too hobbyist. And with neither do I really want an app to open and close my door...

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Hed posted:

Does anyone here use any garage door integration with Home Assistant? I was thinking about doing it for presence detection and fixing my crappy remote.

Thanks to movax's posts I saw Tailwind and I like the idea of "pair with car bluetooth so that it comes up / goes down automatically" but it looks like any integration with HA is a joke. I was interested in using it for presence detection or at least to turn internal lights on if the house was dark.

There's also OpenGarage but that looks almost too hobbyist. And with neither do I really want an app to open and close my door...

If you email Tailwind support, they can push a HomeKit-enabled beta firmware your way / open API access to you that might help out in HA integration. I set up HomeKit but then promptly ran into firewall / VLAN issues that I haven’t had the time to sort out yet, as Tailwind is over on my IoT network.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Schlage Encode Plus was announced.

$300
HomeKit compatible
Can use NFC to unlock door via the new iOS 15 Apple Wallet keys thing
Out in “spring”

Day 1 buy for me despite the steep price. I don’t have any smart locks currently but have been looking to add a HomeKit one instead of making 400 copies of a house key for my kids to lose.

xgalaxy
Jan 27, 2004
i write code
I dont understand how smart locks work reliably.
Every house I've lived in there are always problems with the door lining up correctly for the deadlock to function.
Usually having to push the door in a bit to get a nice tight seal around the weather stripping.
And also seasonal changes to how the door aligns.

bobfather
Sep 20, 2001

I will analyze your nervous system for beer money

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Schlage Encode Plus was announced.

$300
HomeKit compatible
Can use NFC to unlock door via the new iOS 15 Apple Wallet keys thing
Out in “spring”

Day 1 buy for me despite the steep price. I don’t have any smart locks currently but have been looking to add a HomeKit one instead of making 400 copies of a house key for my kids to lose.

Buy 30 NFC tags from Amazon for $10 and use Shortcuts to make them to do whatever you want, including unlock your HomeKit enabled lock. I’d have been way more impressed if they put in a nice fingerprint reader.

bobfather fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jan 5, 2022

odiv
Jan 12, 2003

xgalaxy posted:

I dont understand how smart locks work reliably.
Every house I've lived in there are always problems with the door lining up correctly for the deadlock to function.
Usually having to push the door in a bit to get a nice tight seal around the weather stripping.
And also seasonal changes to how the door aligns.
Yeah, in the winter my deadbolt doesn't go all the way in and then the smartlock beeps and complains. It goes in enough to lock it though. You'd probably have to pay more attention to how well it's aligned and be prepared to adjust it.

Or move to California or something, idk.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

I'm in California and my front door never loving closes correctly

:sigh:

Haptical Sales Slut
Mar 15, 2010

Age 18 to 49

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Schlage Encode Plus was announced.

$300
HomeKit compatible
Can use NFC to unlock door via the new iOS 15 Apple Wallet keys thing
Out in “spring”

Day 1 buy for me despite the steep price. I don’t have any smart locks currently but have been looking to add a HomeKit one instead of making 400 copies of a house key for my kids to lose.

I just discovered this thread and really want a smart lock. This looks like exactly what I need!

How hard is it to get tools to pen test your own stuff? Is this like basic download a *nix image with haxor tools loaded thing or buy specialty equipment thing?

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
My 113 year old house has all sorts of messed up stuff that makes every little project 10 times more difficult. But somehow, mercifully, the doors are installed perfectly and the deadbolt never rubs throughout the year. And this is in Minnesota with our wild temperature extremes, I've got a number of interior doors that change so much throughout the year that for parts of the year they won't even latch. But the two entry doors are perfect.

Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.
Has anyone here used the GoControl HUSBZB-1 with a z-wave lock? I bought it based on the fact that it was both Z-Wave and Zigbee in one (though I only have z-wave stuff right now) and also because a lot of people seemed to recommend it, but I'm also reading that out of the box it needs a firmware update in order to upgrade it to Z-Wave Plus and that even then it may not play nice with locks that require the S2 security.

The firmware update process is fairly complex and while I'm confident I could do it I'm trying to decide if it's worth even bothering vs returning it and ordering something like a Zooz S2 or something like that instead.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
The problem with smart locks is they are only a deadbolt, I want one that locks the knob as well.

And a deluxe version that locks the door using those hooks that come out of the door in several spots, my inlaws have one of those and it looks pretty badass from a security aspect.

azurite
Jul 25, 2010

Strange, isn't it?!


Scruff McGruff posted:

Has anyone here used the GoControl HUSBZB-1 with a z-wave lock? I bought it based on the fact that it was both Z-Wave and Zigbee in one (though I only have z-wave stuff right now) and also because a lot of people seemed to recommend it, but I'm also reading that out of the box it needs a firmware update in order to upgrade it to Z-Wave Plus and that even then it may not play nice with locks that require the S2 security.

The firmware update process is fairly complex and while I'm confident I could do it I'm trying to decide if it's worth even bothering vs returning it and ordering something like a Zooz S2 or something like that instead.

I don't think you need to do this. Devices with S2 should be backwards compatible with S0.

Three Olives
Apr 10, 2005

Don't forget Hitler's contributions to medicine.

priznat posted:

The problem with smart locks is they are only a deadbolt, I want one that locks the knob as well.

I had to break my husband of this habit. What additional security protection is the knob lock adding over the deadbolt? If someone has come to our house with the intent on breaking in, seen all the security cameras covering our property, is willing to break through our deadbolt with the knowledge that we almost certainly have an LTE connected alarm system, the little nob lock is going to do anything?

Kalman
Jan 17, 2010

Seriously. I took out the locking knob on our doors with smart locks and replaced it with a no locking handle- handle lock’s only function is so people can lock themselves out accidentally.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
I just feel having 2 locking points is better than 1, and that’s with reinforcing the strike plate and frame area.

Just a preference, would feel weird not having it. I expect this to be a bone of great contention!

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jabro
Mar 25, 2003

July Mock Draft 2014

1st PLACE
RUNNER-UP
got the knowshon


priznat posted:

I just feel having 2 locking points is better than 1, and that’s with reinforcing the strike plate and frame area.

Just a preference, would feel weird not having it. I expect this to be a bone of great contention!

Door locks are only there to make the homeowner feel better. They aren’t going to stop anyone who wants to get in. One or two doesn’t matter. If two makes you feel better then have two. It’s your peace of mind.

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