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EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
Finally found the rattle in the rear suspension of my 300C. The bottom shock bolt (in the control arm) was worn, and it was allowing the shock to slightly rotate a degree or two. When you were driving, it was just an annoying constant rattle. I had a clunk too, but I put new hubs and axles in the rear and got rid of that. Feels good to have it all quiet again. I think I might have a coolant leak. I think it's the heater core. I hope not, but I'm gonna pressure test it this week.

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GOD IS BED
Jun 17, 2010

ALL HAIL GOD MAMMON
:minnie:

College Slice
Got to work on prepping the "new" door for my van today. Stripped off the pinstripes, the black vinyl and badge near the window, pulled the mirror and door speaker. Debating on swapping the lower cladding- it would match, but getting the plastic off in one reusable piece doesn't seem possible for 20 year old plastic. The video I saw of someone removing it had the guy bending the heck out of it as it came off.

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009
Trying to get the 7.3 to start now that it's getting colder.

If I crank while the glow plug relay is energized I get a bunch of sputtering.

If I wait the full minute or whatever until the relay has opened and the glow plugs are hot but no longer energized I get no sputtering at all, which is what my OBS does until it catches.

What the gently caress does that mean? Does the IDM just freak out with marginal voltage?

FWIW All 8 plugs on the super duty are in spec for resistance measured through the valve cover harnesses.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
is your voltage lower than say like 10 Volts during cranking with glows on? that's gonna play hell with your idm voltages and cranking speeds which is also gonna drop your hpop pressures.

Monitor both your cranking + glow voltage and hpop pressure during such, go from there.

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009
I verified cranking voltage above 10.5 volts after new batteries but it was probably with the relay open. Gotta get the batteries back to full charge and verify closed versus open as well as ICP voltage during both.

I guess this might be the tipping point for getting a decent scan tool. It would be nice to be able to set up a live data view to see everything concurrently and just sit in the cab instead of climbing up the bumper and moving the meter leads to see battery voltage, relay voltage, and ICP voltage one at a time.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)


:ohdear:


:getin:

Only took it around the block, but the remapped shift points and firmer shifts are perfect. Throttle response is also completely different, in a good way. Really feels like the way it should have been from the factory. Marty from Mo's Speed Shop sent it with a couple of different files; I'll try the 93 tune next time I get gas.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Dec 29, 2021

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
maybe do a burnout?

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


STR posted:


:ohdear:


:getin:

Only took it around the block, but the remapped shift points and firmer shifts are perfect. Throttle response is also completely different, in a good way. Really feels like the way it should have been from the factory. Marty from Mo's Speed Shop sent it with a couple of different files; I'll try the 93 tune next time I get gas.

OK, now I need that.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

STR posted:


:ohdear:


:getin:

Only took it around the block, but the remapped shift points and firmer shifts are perfect. Throttle response is also completely different, in a good way. Really feels like the way it should have been from the factory. Marty from Mo's Speed Shop sent it with a couple of different files; I'll try the 93 tune next time I get gas.
I feel silly for selling my tuner with my mustang since I ended up with a panther, can I ask how much that ran ya for everything?

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

Does it sound different or nah

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Cage posted:

I feel silly for selling my tuner with my mustang since I ended up with a panther, can I ask how much that ran ya for everything?

The tuner + the tune from MO's is a bit more than $500, the majority being the tuner itself.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

taqueso posted:

Does it sound different or nah

Sounds the same - a bit louder than the videos I posted awhile back now that the glasspacks are good and broken in, but no difference before or after tuning. Idle seems smoother somehow, but I THINK the target idle RPM is a little lower now. P71s have a target idle of 850 in park (plus a 200 amp alternator on 03+) to help run all the police equipment they were expected to have.

I'm thinking about asking him to firm the shifts even more. I think I went with "7" for shift firmness (1-10 scale, stock being somewhere around 4-5); it'll throw you back on WOT upshifts as it is, but puttering around town it's still reasonably mellow, though it doesn't go into 4th until a little above 40 now (fine with me, it drones at 40 in 4th).

fake edit: gently caress it, just shot him an email asking if I can tweak transmission pressures myself, or if he'll have to send new files. "I don't want a concussion on every upshift... but close". My work van (Transit w/3.5 Ecoboost and 10 speed) feels like it tries to lift the front off the ground on the 2-3 upshift (and hooooo boy don't let it upshift at WOT in the rain, you wind up sideways). I want something like that.

real edit: he already replied. :stare: Getting new files shortly.

Cage posted:

I feel silly for selling my tuner with my mustang since I ended up with a panther, can I ask how much that ran ya for everything?

Darchangel posted:

The tuner + the tune from MO's is a bit more than $500, the majority being the tuner itself.

It was originally quoted at $515 (tuner is $420, the rest is the files + support) back in September. When I finally pulled the trigger last week it had gone up to $535. Obviously the tunes differ depending on which PCM you have. If you already have a SCT tuner, then he'll work with you on just the files.

I'm annoyed that the tuner gets married to the PCM, but not surprised. I can divorce it up to 5 times before it's useless, but part of that process is reloading the original factory tune (so basically no sharing tuners). More annoying is you can't update the firmware on the SCT without sending the stock tune back to the PCM.

He's EXTREMELY responsive, even on loving Christmas Day.

late edit: just went to pick up dinner, and jesus, the smiles per gallon are a lot higher now. The drat thing tries to smoke the tires at a half throttle launch now, and overall it's just so much better to drive. P71s already have much more aggressive tuning and throttle mapping vs the civilian versions, but it's a different car in terms of how it shifts and reacts to throttle inputs. Butt dyno says it might be a little quicker, even. Gas gauge says it got thirsty as hell, but I'm sure a lot of that is the PCM re-learning everything.

EDIT EDIT EDIT: tune revised to bump "hard shifting" to 11. Me like! Gonna be a little bit of a handful in the rain if I'm on it, but me like. Bouncing my head off of the headrest on upshifts...

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Dec 30, 2021

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Yesterday was winter tire day. I didn't do a great job masking the Wheels of Teal for the pickup, but my technique improved when I masked the wheels for my wife's CR-V. I'm sure the paint will fall off the rubber with some driving and a trip or two through a car wash. That isn't happening today because it is cold.



I don't know if her regular tires suck or if these Dunlop Graspic something-or-others are that kick-rear end, but her CR-V handles snow a million times better with the winter rubber. The angle or something sure does make those tires look tiny.

And yes, I am using a battery-powered tire inflator to top off the air pressure despite the presence of a giant air compressor on the other side of the CUV.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
Changed the thermostat and water pump on our 14' Wrangler. It would overheat going ~60 down the freeway. I read the plastic pumps had problems and just decided to replace both the thermostat and water pump. After tearing it apart, I could have gotten away with just the thermostat. Someone put a cheap MotoRad in and the housings was cracked at the bleeder. Oh well, $230 later it has new parts that will last another ~80k hopefully.
I hate Chrysler and the 3.6. Who the gently caress makes you REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR AND MOUNT to install a belt. WHY DOES IT HAVE 3 DIFFERENT BOLT SIZES?!?!






And yes, I am using my FD as a work bench.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


PBCrunch posted:

And yes, I am using a battery-powered tire inflator to top off the air pressure despite the presence of a giant air compressor on the other side of the CUV.

I do the same thing. Hassle of spooling out the hose avoided, plus the Ryobi is set and forget.


the spyder posted:

Who the gently caress makes you REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR AND MOUNT to install a belt. WHY DOES IT HAVE 3 DIFFERENT BOLT SIZES?!?!
Chrysler

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
Did it yesterday, but replaced what I thought was a bad washer fluid pump, still had lovely pressure to both nozzles. A light application of some 10psi compressed air.... And found the rotting hose buried under the hood insulation that finally popped.

Good thing I've got a bunch of the correct size hose. Just have to remove the mostly-disintegrating hood insulation to do it.

Also shout out to the PO who used a couple lovely grade 5 bolts and nylock nuts to hold on the driver wheel well liner in. That was fun to fix after 10 years of mostly winter driving duty.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Finally got the last bit I needed for the 2006 Subaru Outback parking brakes.
At some point a shop had removed everything from the driver side parking brake. It turns out the left side parking brake lever is drat near unfindable for that generation and even though the parking brake strut is shared with the Impreza platform, the lever itself, is not.

Total list of things done since I put this bastard up on jacks about 2 months ago:
Quick struts, front and rear
Front CV axles (I attempted to do the rears just because I was already there, but the rear diff in this car appears to be for a manual rather than an auto and they have a different spline count, so the rears I ordered did not fit. And given that the rears seemed to be in ok shape, I said screw it and threw them back on.)
Front sway bar end links
Rear upper control arm bushings
Rear aft lower control arm and adjustment bolt
Rear fore lower control arm/lateral arm (replaced with an adjustable one)
(rear sway bar end links were recently replaced, so they were good)
AC belt
Alternator belt
Timing belt and associated freewheels and tensioner
Water pump
Parking brakes

All of that meant I could take it in and use the one year alignment warranty I got when I had it in last. And now everything is within spec and feels as good as a 224,000 mile car can feel.

I still need to adjust the parking brakes a bit. Maybe if I'm feeling particularly motivated this week.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
I've started the install of my Vortec supercharger kit (A&A Corvette). Got off work and finally got the damper bolt out. Took a 3/4" impact. Drilled and pinned the crank, installed the new GM Performance bolt and torqued (240 ft-lbs is no joke), and managed to get the steering rack and ABS module reinstalled. Tomorrow I can start installing the intercooler and plumbing. I might rip the exhaust off first, because it'll be easier to get the headers on and off before I install the supercharger. Feels good to be productive after a week of not getting much done.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Loaded a different tune, feels like I'm running on 7 cylinders at idle now. :sigh: Runs fine when I give it gas. :iiam:

No CEL yet, but I've only put 2 miles on it. If it pops a flashing CEL tomorrow, I'll pull over and reload the 87 octane tune. If I still have a miss, guess I get to do coils. :homebrew:

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


After about 20 miles of driving, the Subaru developed a squeal at cold idle and when steering was under load.
Tightening the A/C / PS pump belt seemed to take care of that. Also, why the hell does Subaru make that nut out of plastic?

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

nadmonk posted:

After about 20 miles of driving, the Subaru developed a squeal at cold idle and when steering was under load.
Tightening the A/C / PS pump belt seemed to take care of that. Also, why the hell does Subaru make that nut out of plastic?

Subaru forgot how to make a car in the mid-90's, that's why.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


chrisgt posted:

Subaru forgot how to make a car in the mid-90's, that's why.

This is the first I've owned and I definitely get the phrase I've heard other people use "It is so frustrating because Subaru is so close to making great cars."
There are so many things that are spot on and then they mess up these details.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

STR posted:

Loaded a different tune, feels like I'm running on 7 cylinders at idle now. :sigh: Runs fine when I give it gas. :iiam:

No CEL yet, but I've only put 2 miles on it. If it pops a flashing CEL tomorrow, I'll pull over and reload the 87 octane tune. If I still have a miss, guess I get to do coils. :homebrew:

I've got a spare set of new in box ebay coils that I think are compatible- I ended up going OEM after blowing that plug out the head.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

nadmonk posted:

This is the first I've owned and I definitely get the phrase I've heard other people use "It is so frustrating because Subaru is so close to making great cars."
There are so many things that are spot on and then they mess up these details.

Notice also that the bolt for that tensioner is left hand threaded, a mile long, and they used two regular machine nuts wedged against each other on its shank to move the plastic part you were talking about.

The entire thing is loving stupid and yes they used left hand thread so that turning the bolt clockwise tightens the belt. There was no other reason, other than "gently caress the guy who has to fix this in the future and can't buy a frigging mile long left hand metric tap bolt because he lives in the moon flag country and gets to choose any 2 of those 3 weird bolt features but not all 3"

gently caress I'm so glad I don't own any more EJ Subarus.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Corner balanced the BRZ today, was pretty wacky before. I still can't believe how heavy this car is, I was hoping it'd be like 2800 with me in it. This is the car with 8 gallons of E85 and me (185lb).

Before:


After:

Shartweek
Feb 15, 2003

D O E S N O T E X I S T

BlackMK4 posted:

Corner balanced the BRZ today, was pretty wacky before. I still can't believe how heavy this car is, I was hoping it'd be like 2800 with me in it. This is the car with 8 gallons of E85 and me (185lb).

Before:


After:


That's a pretty nice improvement. I always appreciate the shops that let us sit in the car while they corner balance it.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

Coolnezzz posted:

That's a pretty nice improvement. I always appreciate the shops that let us sit in the car while they corner balance it.

Yeah, that is always nice. I borrowed scales to do it myself, which was kind of a pain.

Just had the car dynoed, I haven't averaged it out yet but I think I need to have the power turned down. It is a 2015 Subaru BRZ with a Harrop supercharger on the medium boost pulley and had E50 in it.

What is a torque dip????



e: 302whp avg, I'll add 20lb to the trunk for safety and send it

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Jan 7, 2022

Rolo
Nov 16, 2005

Hmm, what have we here?
300+ whp supercharged BRZ.

This is extremely why I’m here.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

I’m keeping it for an idea after the warranty has expired, myself.

Professor of Cats
Mar 22, 2009

BlackMK4 posted:

Yeah, that is always nice. I borrowed scales to do it myself, which was kind of a pain.

Just had the car dynoed, I haven't averaged it out yet but I think I need to have the power turned down. It is a 2015 Subaru BRZ with a Harrop supercharger on the medium boost pulley and had E50 in it.

What is a torque dip????



e: 302whp avg, I'll add 20lb to the trunk for safety and send it

Hell yes. This must be fun as hell to zoom around in.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Pulled the gauge cluster in the Fit to re-flow the fuel gauge solder joints. Again. Probably my own fault because I’m not really great at electronics, so I had my son do it.

And then I tried to open the trunk. Which apparently you can’t do when the gauge cluster is disconnected for some reason. I thought it randomly broke because of the cold or just because that’s my luck, and I was prepared to be disappointed in Honda reliability for the first time ever.

Plugged the cluster back in, and trunk works. Oh and the CEL came on. So I had to hunt for my code reader, and it turns out it was just “lost connection to cluster”. Well, duh.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Went to go replace the control arms and steering link in the C10. Took one look at the brakes and oh hell no these are the original 40 year old calipers and they are leaking a bit. Also the spindles have cracks where the ball joints go through so I guess I am replacing everything in the front now :smith:

The original springs had a coil cut out of them to lower the front and I would like the front and rear to be around the same height now the existing 2 inch difference. Drop spindles it is.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
I got my nitrous setup pulled off, pulled the battery, and then got the intercooler installed. Probably going to remove the plugs and exhaust tomorrow, and then I'll be ready to do the external fuel pump and new exhaust.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

the spyder posted:

I've got a spare set of new in box ebay coils that I think are compatible- I ended up going OEM after blowing that plug out the head.

Might take you up on that at some point, but it turns out the junkyard alternator was going wonky as hell. Turns out these don't run so well on <10 volts with occasional spikes back up to 14.5. I charged the battery back up yesterday and ran it a bit, runs fine for now... just not much electron movement out of the spinning thing.

Parked until O'Reillys can get me a non-destroyed alternator. :argh:

dissss
Nov 10, 2007

I'm a terrible forums poster with terrible opinions.

Here's a cat fucking a squid.
Road trip time - poor Hyundai is not especially happy with approx one tonne of toddler stuff in the boot and a couple of bikes hanging off the back.



One of those is a cheap ebike that weighs a lot even without the battery attached which I'm sure isn't helping.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



STR posted:

Might take you up on that at some point, but it turns out the junkyard alternator was going wonky as hell. Turns out these don't run so well on <10 volts with occasional spikes back up to 14.5. I charged the battery back up yesterday and ran it a bit, runs fine for now... just not much electron movement out of the spinning thing.

Parked until O'Reillys can get me a non-destroyed alternator. :argh:

Dude haven’t you been through seventeen or fifty alternators on the baconator? That’s rotten luck! Are they parts store reman units or new?

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Everything ordered. Got a kit that was spindles, rotors, calipers, pads and hardware. Need to remove the front brake lines and remake them as they are pretty much welded together through corrosion so no way I am getting them off. Just hope I can get them out of the proportioning valve.

GOD IS BED
Jun 17, 2010

ALL HAIL GOD MAMMON
:minnie:

College Slice
I got to help my friend pull the power antenna assembly off his C4 Corvette today. It's a neat thing, to have learned enough about cars to work on a car I've loved since childhood.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
Got the spark plugs and manifolds loose. Pulled the dipstick. Got the o2 sensors unplugged. Ready to pull the exhaust out, but I took the afternoon to watch my favorite team make a mockery of itself.

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


BigPaddy posted:

Went to go replace the control arms and steering link in the C10. Took one look at the brakes and oh hell no these are the original 40 year old calipers and they are leaking a bit. Also the spindles have cracks where the ball joints go through so I guess I am replacing everything in the front now :smith:

The original springs had a coil cut out of them to lower the front and I would like the front and rear to be around the same height now the existing 2 inch difference. Drop spindles it is.

Hey, at least you had disc brakes to start with!

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