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TotalLossBrain posted:this poo poo is so much fun on this: I'd like to have a go on a monkey cause it's basically a Grom with rear suspension from the seventies. I suspect most of the suspension upgrades people do to groms would be unhelpful at best on a monkey, I suspect it's one of the few bikes where an extended swingarm would be a major handling upgrade. Luckily it lacks the power to make the deficiencies really glaring. Remy Marathe posted:Yo I just want to say that I've been lurking this forum for a month now, and you and other longtime posters' responses to myriad questions old and new have been of great help to me as I returned to riding. This forum is the closest I've seen to the non-toxic community that beginnerbikers.org provided me many years ago (it looks mothballed and hosed up these days) in terms of practical advice and appropriately placed idiot-checks, and I appreciate it. *eating rice motion* FEED ME Am I doing that right?
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Jan 1, 2022 03:30
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Depends on what you're trying to do but if you were doing a beginnerbikers.org impersonation you'd type in all caps without punctuation and be a 90 yo man from rural Canada with questionable politics speaking in unintelligible diatribes which we would pick through for bits of mechanical wisdom.
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Jan 1, 2022 04:14
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Slavvy posted:I'd like to have a go on a monkey cause it's basically a Grom with rear suspension from the seventies. Ohlin makes a really nice set of rears for ~$750, YSS makes knockoffs for any $350. But eh, the bike cost 4k new. I'm not heavy enough to have it really bother me and really, I only ride it in town and it's not going above 60mph. I have no handling complaints. But some people really like dumping money in them. Webike is a treasure for cool parts
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Jan 1, 2022 06:25
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Slavvy posted:It's not a huge difference, it just makes the contact patch a bit bigger in exchange for very slightly slowing down the steering. At most you'd have to bump the rear preload by a step to sharpen it back up, though if you're coming from factory tyres (IRC? Shinko? Malaysian pilot streets?) just the fact that you're on pirellis will be a much bigger change to the handling than 10mm more front tyre. There is probably little to no 'real' gain to a 120 if you were going by lap times, but the reduction in wobbling and nervousness has a good effect on your confidence and that in itself is worth a lot. I went by where the bike is in winter storage today, and the answer is IRC RX-01 Road Winner. Still on the fence whether to take your advice on bigger front tire. You clearly know these things, but I assume the same is true for the engineers at Honda. Since I don't know poo poo it's a question of whom I should listen to, but since internet opinions differ I'm leaning towards factory size since that seems the conservative choice. I don't care about the looks much and I kind of like the sharp steering feel, that's not what scares me about fast corners. I've never experienced any wobbling tendencies so far but it seems unpleasant and I'd rather not have it happen. There's definitely clearance for 10mm extra rubber with fork and fender so that's no issue.
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Jan 1, 2022 15:17
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Slavvy posted:Is a Grom being painfully slow a problem that needs solving?
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Jan 1, 2022 15:35
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Invalido posted:I went by where the bike is in winter storage today, and the answer is IRC RX-01 Road Winner. Still on the fence whether to take your advice on bigger front tire. You clearly know these things, but I assume the same is true for the engineers at Honda. Since I don't know poo poo it's a question of whom I should listen to, but since internet opinions differ I'm leaning towards factory size since that seems the conservative choice. I don't care about the looks much and I kind of like the sharp steering feel, that's not what scares me about fast corners. I've never experienced any wobbling tendencies so far but it seems unpleasant and I'd rather not have it happen. There's definitely clearance for 10mm extra rubber with fork and fender so that's no issue. The difference between a 110 and 120 tyre is miniscule, you would probably be unable to tell if someone didn't point it out. The difference between IRC road winners and pirellis is like the difference between having air in your tyres or not. Just changing to literally any even halfway decent tyre will mean having to learn to ride all over again. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I've been thinking a lot lately that a Trail 90 would be one of the greatest all around bikes if it could do the speeds of a 200 scooter. So it would need a 200 engine, but they don't seem to exist. I'm assuming the cylinder stud spacing of those old Honda horizontal engines prevents boring out much beyond 125, cause nobody sells anything bigger. This depresses me. I don't think engine power is the problem there, o think Grom geometry is really only good enough for the speed the Grom has, I think you wouldn't be able to use that extra power at all.
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Jan 1, 2022 19:30
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They Kymco Spade is a Grom-atmosphere descendant. It has a 150cc engine, which gives 70 mph. Slavvy said that the new Kymco isn't as good as the old one, though.
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Jan 1, 2022 20:04
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Invalido posted:I went by where the bike is in winter storage today, and the answer is IRC RX-01 Road Winner. Still on the fence whether to take your advice on bigger front tire. You clearly know these things, but I assume the same is true for the engineers at Honda. Since I don't know poo poo it's a question of whom I should listen to, but since internet opinions differ I'm leaning towards factory size since that seems the conservative choice. I don't care about the looks much and I kind of like the sharp steering feel, that's not what scares me about fast corners. I've never experienced any wobbling tendencies so far but it seems unpleasant and I'd rather not have it happen. There's definitely clearance for 10mm extra rubber with fork and fender so that's no issue. Meta post. Calling out Slavvy with Slavvys catchphrase “the engineers did it for a reason”.
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Jan 1, 2022 20:57
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Slavvy posted:The difference between a 110 and 120 tyre is miniscule, you would probably be unable to tell if someone didn't point it out. I think you should remember your own advice: don't change stuff unless you have a specific problem you're trying to solve,.  The guy only wants good tires. Going to a better quality tire will be plenty. There's no reason to go up to a 120 unless he literally can't get good tires in 110, which we know is not the case.
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Jan 1, 2022 22:44
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Yeah it's definitely a thing you do cause the 110 is hard to get more than anything really. I've found several times that the 120 version is cheaper too. If you can get both and cost the same there's no real reason to change anything.
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Jan 2, 2022 00:18
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Slavvy posted:I don't think engine power is the problem there, o think Grom geometry is really only good enough for the speed the Grom has, I think you wouldn't be able to use that extra power at all. Slide Hammer posted:They Kymco Spade is a Grom-atmosphere descendant. It has a 150cc engine, which gives 70 mph.
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Jan 2, 2022 01:14
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Oh lmao you mean making a trail 70 that fast? Yeah nah, I suspect somewhere around 120kmh the weave would consume you. Even the modern monkey upthread would likely need a longer swingarm if it gained any real power, which is what I was talking about. I'm pretty sure a ct110 engine would bolt right into a trail 70 so not difficult to try, the cub engine has an enormous aftermarket. You can get 4v heads for them.
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Jan 2, 2022 04:43
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Well yeah, that's what I mean, a CT110 that's actually a CT200. But not the "CT200" which was actually a 90. Didn't know they made 4v heads, wonder if they put out enough power for 200 speeds. If the gearing were right. I assume that's a racing mod that makes a lot of heat and might melt itself?
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Jan 2, 2022 05:05
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It's a Grom mod but I've seen ct's running them too, I'm not familiar enough to know beyond that. I know the record setting postie used a modified factory head though so anything is possible.
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Jan 2, 2022 05:14
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By the time you install a 4V head on a Grom/Monkey engine, you need a whole lot of other supporting mods. Non-stock BB cylinder with altered oil passages, oil cooler, high-flow oil pump, crank support bearing in the flywheel cover, a real oil filter, cam chain tensioner - for starters. The 125 is a nice engine, but it seems to be at capacity already when it comes to reliable power. TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 2, 2022 05:17
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Not sure if this is the one I'm thinking of.AMCN posted:“I tinkered and refined,” he says. “We’d made 95mph (163km/h) running on alcohol with a 15,000rpm redline but I couldn’t squeeze any more out of her so then I ‘nosed’ her.” 
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Jan 2, 2022 05:24
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I just ordered a set of Pirelli sport demons. I'm sure I'll be very happy with them come spring. Thanks for the help.
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Jan 2, 2022 13:08
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Slavvy posted:Yup. This is where using a dynamic approach (concentrating on the bike's pitching) is a really helpful skill set to have. If you only ride the traditional way (brake upright, release, turn, gas), you're essentially trusting the tyre to grip all by itself and hoping you and the road are smooth enough while you cut a long, wide arc with no real control of tyre loading at all. If you're braking into the turn and moving quickly from the brake to the throttle without any coasting between, you're drastically boosting your grip and feel by actively driving the front or rear wheel into the pavement when you need them most, and creating traction and temperature, while also keeping your time and speed at lean to a minimum. Which is better for driving wheels into the pavement and giving you the most traction in the corner, specifically on an electric motorcycle: 1. Front brake braking 2. Regenerative braking (i.e. closing the throttle on an electric motorcycle) I feel like it's option 1.
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Jan 2, 2022 20:47
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Regenerative braking is functionally identical to using the rear brake alone (or engine braking), so all the same concepts apply.
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Jan 2, 2022 20:51
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Thank you, that makes sense.
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Jan 2, 2022 20:57
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Is it like using the rear brake or like engine braking? They are dynamically different but I've never ridden an electric so I don't know what they're like. Engine braking slows the bike but has no real effect on jommetry, everything just sort of slacks off and all the weight flops onto the front wheel, but without any real load on the tyre. This is why coasting into a corner on a shut throttle is a good way to crash in low grip conditions and why imo it's shoddy technique in most circumstances. Rear brake applies a torque to the swingarm that causes the bike to squat a bit. This makes the bike longer and more stable, as well as reducing the amount of weight flopping toward the front. I think you should do what's always best practice: use both brakes. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 2, 2022 21:28
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Solid and informative advice, thank you.
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Jan 2, 2022 21:33
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No idea how this translates to other electric bikes, but i noticed that on the Cake, the regen braking was strong enough to make the rear brake pedal essentially useless at medium to high speeds. Touching the brake pedal while also using the front brake would result quite quickly in a locked up rear wheel (no ABS). So if your regen braking is aggressive, you can go without using the rear brake. Figure it out by seeing how much brake pedal you can add before the rear locks up or ABS engages.
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Jan 2, 2022 21:36
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Will do. I've used the rear brake (with the front brake) a lot more with the Fat Bob. On the LiveWire, I've used the rear brake very rarely (aside from when stopped on hills) while riding, as regenerative braking is super handy. Re regenerative braking aggressiveness: you can adjust how aggressive it. I've it set to about 75% I think right now, will be dialling it up (as well as throttle response and acceleration). Basically, I started out in Road (default) mode, then started sliding the adjustability sliders to the right every few rides, i.e. increasing throttle response, acceleration, braking (I've kept traction control on max though, will not be changing that). Entirely separately, I really miss the Fat Bob, should be back to me in a couple of months, but still...
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Jan 2, 2022 22:16
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Whats going on with the Bob?
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Jan 3, 2022 00:11
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It’s at the shop. Some bits need fixed. Bits are on back order.
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Jan 3, 2022 00:40
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I picked up a set of Progressive 412 shocks. After bolting one up, using the spacers as directed for my bike, I noticed it was a bit crooked from vertical. Oops, I didn't notice that the lower eye is offset. I took it back off, but is the bushing now ruined? Part of it is a bit squished/deformed by FSM-specified 50 lb/ft. Here's I think how it's supposed to go, with the lower eye inwards (bike is on the right) but maybe I don't need that lower spacer  because of the offset eye? I'll just lightly bolt it back on checking for fitment as I go. As an aside, what the hell is the point of spacers and an offset eye? Both upper and lower eyes on the stock shocks are dead center, so if the aftermarket shocks need more clearance, in order to mate vertically with the bike, you just need the exact same spacers at the top and bottom, the fact that the bottom eye is offset makes it basically impossible to mount in the same vertical alignment as the stock shocks (given that the spacers are the same width). epswing fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Jan 3, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2022 05:16
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That is totally fine to use. They're offset because they fit multiple models and some bikes have a wider swingarm or whatever. I've struck the spacer thing on sportsters before, I've also seen a bunch running around with wonky shocks. It can get confusing, there will be some configuration that makes sense. Looking at your pics I think the bike should be on the left in the bottom picture, with the spacer ring filling the gap created by the offset.
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Jan 3, 2022 06:43
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Bro and I flushed brake fluid on our bikes yesterday. Both his Kawasaki and my Honda have a small washer-like sort of cup-shaped doodad of formed thin sheet metal that sits right where the front brake fluid reservoir drains in the bottom. I cant find the thing in the service manual. Does anyone know what it is /what its purpose is? (Just curious.)
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Jan 3, 2022 11:58
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Slavvy posted:That is totally fine to use. Cool, ended up with a spacer at the top, and the eye towards the bike at the bottom (which sorta serves as its own spacer). They look vertical to me, and the heads of the bolts seated flat. Something I didn't count on, and maybe this is specific to the 1200 Custom, is the bottom bolt on the right side wouldn't clear the exhaust, because the swingarm is lower (or, I guess, the bike is taller). I barely got that bolt through, after loosening and rotating the heat shield down and out of the way. I really wasn't looking forward to removing a muffler for what's billed as the easiest possible install procedure. Pfff actually now that I think about it I could have just lowered the jack/bike and bolted the bottoms of the shocks first. Anyways, it's done. Taller Progressive rear shocks, less-poo poo Mustang seat, OEM mid controls, this Sportster is slightly less bad now. Front suspension is probably next. I'm looking forward to riding it 4 months from now 
epswing fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Jan 3, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2022 19:44
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Invalido posted:Bro and I flushed brake fluid on our bikes yesterday. Both his Kawasaki and my Honda have a small washer-like sort of cup-shaped doodad of formed thin sheet metal that sits right where the front brake fluid reservoir drains in the bottom. I cant find the thing in the service manual. Does anyone know what it is /what its purpose is? (Just curious.) I think they're to stop the brake fluid splashing out in a little geyser every time you pump the lever with the cap off.
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Jan 3, 2022 20:15
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Slavvy posted:I think they're to stop the brake fluid splashing out in a little geyser every time you pump the lever with the cap off. That makes sense at least. I couldn't figure out how they would have anything to do with the normal operation of the brake.
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Jan 3, 2022 22:11
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Slavvy posted:I think they're to stop the brake fluid splashing out in a little geyser every time you pump the lever with the cap off. lol KTM does not have this on the clutch master (ask me how I know  )
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Jan 4, 2022 00:54
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Slavvy posted:I think they're to stop the brake fluid splashing out in a little geyser every time you pump the lever with the cap off. That’s exactly what it is. You know immediately when you’re working on a bike that doesn’t have one
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Jan 4, 2022 02:22
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I hate all vintage brake masters that don't have that. Ugh.
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Jan 4, 2022 02:50
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epswing posted:I'm looking forward to riding it 4 months from now gently caress, I hope the snow clears up by April Reminds me, I need to grab my replacement hoses I ordered
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Jan 4, 2022 08:02
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I'm removing the gas tank for the first time on my VanVan 200 to do valve clearance checks, wondering if anyone has a forecast of how much gas I'll drop in the process or suggestions about my spill containment plan here? I'm working in the street and mean to be a good citizen. The manual simply says to turn the fuel valve off and disconnect the fuel line (1). I'm thinking if I keep a rag under it while I disconnect it at the valve end (and a big towel on the ground), I can drain the little bit that's in the hose to a container then bag and tie it. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 20:55
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Or just be ready with a gas can to catch it. You could also fully drain the tank that way if you need to
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Jan 8, 2022 20:56
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Remy Marathe posted:I'm removing the gas tank for the first time on my VanVan 200 to do valve clearance checks, wondering if anyone has a forecast of how much gas I'll drop in the process or suggestions about my spill containment plan here? I'm working in the street and mean to be a good citizen. you'll drop whatever is in the tube after the fuel cock so maybe an oz? maybe more if you turn that rubber hose down too. I always just used a shop rag to soak it up on my XRs and it was fine
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Jan 8, 2022 21:06
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You are vastly overestimating both the amount of petrol in that tube and the amount of fucks you need to give. It will be like 20ml, most which will evaporate before it hits the ground. If you plan on draining the carb you'll have about a half a cup of coffee worth of volume to catch. Note of caution: fuel taps are questionable devices at the best of times, don't be alarmed if it doesn't actually turn off. In this scenario, take the tube off the carb, put it on the tap, fold it back on itself and ziptie it tight - perfect seal guaranteed.
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Jan 8, 2022 21:13
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