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therunningman posted:2007 Toyota Sienna FWD Was it really rusty? Wire brush can just polish the rust, you'd need to file it down.
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Jan 1, 2022 06:05
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Colostomy Bag posted:Can you log TPS % for the heck of it? I can. Haven't gotten to it yet. Tried to do logging with my tuner today and it can only do 2 parameters at once.. pretty limited too.  Can't even view fuel pressure (just commanded pressure). And I'd have 2-4 TPS values to be looking at, since it's DBW. I'm going to log with FORScan.But it bucked again today. I looked over at the tuner and it was showing 12.1 volts.  Let off the gas and it came back up to 14.5 once it got back down to idle. Hammered it again and it dropped to 12.6 around 4k, and was dropping. AC was cranked up, lights on, and my battery is a couple of years old (but it's generally 12.5-12.6 after sitting overnight and cranks strong). Annoyingly, this car seems to take a minute or two to trip the alternator light too - I've started it with the serpentine belt off before, and it took a good 2 or 3 minutes before the light came on.That much of a voltage drop can definitely affect fuel pressure, and probably piss off the PWM driver for the pump. Guessing the junkyard alternator has worn brushes or slip rings. I'll go ahead and pony up for a new OEM alternator - $264 on Amazon, no core charge, free shipping.. or $179 + $75 core + $9 shipping + however much to ship the old one back on Rockauto. Napa wants $250 for a reman, $400 for new... and that's not even OEM. Surprisingly O'Reilly can get it for $254 + $75 core, but it'd have to be ordered (e: oh snap, capital one shopping plugin found a $50 coupon...) Figure I need to get the charging system into tip top shape before I chase any other gremlins. Current alternator is a $30 junkyard special. final edit: pulled the trigger on the o'reilly's order. OEM alternator at close to Rockauto's price, and I can return the core locally randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Jan 1, 2022 |
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Jan 1, 2022 08:11
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therunningman posted:2007 Toyota Sienna FWD I've had this happen and I just used a file to take it down slightly. Worked well. You'll know if you have a problem from your pads sticking I guess. You'll probably hear it more than you'll feel anything if so.
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Jan 1, 2022 09:52
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:I've thought about selling my rally car and thus, my 4Runner since I wouldn't need a tow/recce vehicle, but aside from buying an old car, there aren't a lot of options for a small car anymore (and I already own an old RX-7). What are the smallest cars you can buy new in Canada these days? Preferably ones that aren't poo poo but I've owned plenty of poo poo cars so that's not a deal breaker. Coupe/2-seater probably but open to considering sedans and 5 doors. Along with other suggestions, the regular Corolla hb SE w/ MT is a fun small car. I have one, reminds me a lot of a civic ep3 si. Not fast but plenty, nimble, shifter feels great, NA I have been considering selling it for a twin, but probably won’t. It’s real good for the price. Insane option, LFx swap a RX8
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Jan 1, 2022 14:06
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no lube so what posted:Along with other suggestions, the regular Corolla hb SE w/ MT is a fun small car. I have one, reminds me a lot of a civic ep3 si. Don’t you sell it. Hold onto it and then use it as a trade-in on a Corolla GR.
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Jan 1, 2022 15:46
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Ok Comboomer posted:Don’t you sell it. Hold onto it and then use it as a trade-in on a Corolla GR. I prob won't. I've been doing the grass is always greener/cabin fever/coulda would shoulda/daydreaming mental gymnastics. It's really hard for me to make a case to get a different car. Even the GR. I'm going to lust after the GR just like I am now over the new twins. Putting a gentleman's fart can on a YOOL 2021 NA 4banging manual hatchback just has that essence of irresistible.
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Jan 1, 2022 18:03
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no lube so what posted:I prob won't. I've been doing the grass is always greener/cabin fever/coulda would shoulda/daydreaming mental gymnastics. You say that but Doug DeMuro just called the Yaris GR “the Delta Integrale of our time” and bemoaned the fact that he can’t buy one in North America in his year-end video. If the Corolla is 75% as good with the same drivetrain and a bigger 5-door chassis it might still wind up being the manual hatchback to end all hatchbacks Also it’s coming with a 3-banger not a 4-banger, so not only does it sound wicked, it’s gonna sound radically different from every 4-pot on the road.
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Jan 1, 2022 19:50
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VelociBacon posted:I've had this happen and I just used a file to take it down slightly. Worked well. You'll know if you have a problem from your pads sticking I guess. You'll probably hear it more than you'll feel anything if so. Got it fixed. It wasn't extremely rusty and filling a bit helped!
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Jan 1, 2022 22:27
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what do you think breaks first on a car when it gets buried in snow? how heavy is snow per foot anyways?
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Jan 2, 2022 03:16
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pnac attack posted:what do you think breaks first on a car when it gets buried in snow? how heavy is snow per foot anyways? Most (modernday) cars stand up to weight on the roof pretty well due to thicker A/B/C columns. But if something is going to "break" under those circumstances the battery usually dies first. And if melted snow goes through any thaw-then-freeze cycles while the car is buried the trunk and door seals don't like that at all, especially if the frozen trunk or door is ripped open before the seeped in frost melts. Snow's weight depends on its composition- is it fluffy light snow or wet snow? Or is it ice? Because ice can be as hard as concrete. melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 2, 2022 03:25
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imagine like four feet of snow that warmed up to 40, got rained on for a couple days, and froze again. car just a lump in a winter wonderland if it's even 1/2 as heavy as water that's a lot of drat weight, i was thinking about tires/suspension going and putting a lil sedan on its belly honestly i wonder what it's like in there. i bet it's kinda chill
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Jan 2, 2022 03:43
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pnac attack posted:imagine like four feet of snow that warmed up to 40, got rained on for a couple days, and froze again. car just a lump in a winter wonderland I want what you’re having
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Jan 2, 2022 04:36
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If you're wondering what would break on a car massed with heavy snow/ice far above its rated carrying capacity: probably nothing, since the accumulation occurs gradually. Eventually, the suspension will compress until it is sitting on the driveline/axle/body mounts, and these are tough hard points that can handle the gradual mass accumulation. The most likely damage would be to the body shell: the roof, trunk (boot) and hood panels getting dished. Try to imagine a small die-cast car, scaled up to 1:1. Car would be more heavily built than a tank. Mass more, too, with that thick shell. Then imagine a 'real' car scaled down to Hot Wheel size. Body sheetmetal would be so thin you couldn't pick it up by hand, you'd have to slip a fork under it to avoid crushing the panels.
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Jan 2, 2022 05:50
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pnac attack posted:what do you think breaks first on a car when it gets buried in snow? how heavy is snow per foot anyways? In the old days, it'd be the antenna, if you forgot to retract it
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Jan 2, 2022 06:32
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therunningman posted:2007 Toyota Sienna FWD I've had to file down the backing plate on cheap aftermarket brake pads before due to bad fitment so it might just be that if you got cheap pads.
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Jan 2, 2022 16:21
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Is there a car selling guide around here? The time is coming to sell the Outback 3.6r while the market is insane
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Jan 2, 2022 16:26
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Head Bee Guy posted:Is there a car selling guide around here? I put my 03 Mach 1 on Facebook and wound up selling it to a guy who owns one of those “we buy cars for cash” places who contacted me through that ad. When I sold my 18 Traverse he offered me 38 when the best offer I could get online or through a dealership was 34. All cash deals feel very illicit, even when you have receipts.
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Jan 2, 2022 16:30
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davecrazy posted:I put my 03 Mach 1 on Facebook and wound up selling it to a guy who owns one of those “we buy cars for cash” places who contacted me through that ad. Holy crap I was blown away when I looked at the MSRP for Traverse. Is it that much better than other crossovers or something? 38 thousand dollars for a Chevy crossover?
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Jan 2, 2022 18:25
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drat I should put my beat-up 00 Accord coupe V6 up for sale. Dented hood, BBQ black overspray & all
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Jan 2, 2022 18:34
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Just jump started another car for the first time and I got lots of sparks when connecting the black clamp to the engine block on the car with the bad battery. It sparked as the clamp went a couple of centimetres from the bare metal spot on the engine. I pulled back but then went to clamp it again. More sparks which stopped when I closed the clamps around the metal. Have I done any damage to my or their car? Did I do it wrong? For what it’s worth the jump itself worked and their car started. I definitely connected positive terminal to positive using the red cable. I then connected the negative terminal on my car to a protruding piece of bare metal on their engine using the black cable. So the last thing I did, clamping the cable to the engine block, was when I had the spark. Clamps seemed a bit hot afterwards if that’s relevant. Did I screw it up? Cars are a ~2004 Yaris (bad battery car) and a 2016 Polo. Both petrol / non-hybrid cars.
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Jan 2, 2022 19:52
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It's fine. Some sparks when you make the last connection are normal -- the good battery is pushing a lot of current into the dead one, and the rough connection of the cable clamp to the metal frame means there are lots of opportunities for arcing as the connection closes. Because some sparking is inevitable, the specific order they tell you to make the connections is meant to ensure that those sparks don't happen right next to the dead battery, which might be emitting hydrogen gas, which could ignite and start a fire. The clamps and cables will be a little warm afterwards because of the amount of current that was flowing through them. Again it's normal as long as they aren't uncomfortably hot. (Note that when you say "a couple of centimeters" I'm assuming there is some confusion and you don't actually mean the sparks occurred while the clamp was still a few centimeters away from anything metal. There is no way you should be seeing an arc that long. The sparks only happen when the parts brush up against each other, and stop when the connection is no longer moving). Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 2, 2022 20:01
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Awesome. Thank you. Yes I watched a few vids that said the point of connecting the last black clamp away from the battery is in case of sparks so it seemed logical that there would then possibly be sparks. But no info in any of the guides about whether to actually expect sparks or if it was more of a freak event. Just saw your edit: yeah was doing it by torchlight so quite possible I was closer than I thought when the sparking occurred. Nigel Tufnel fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 2, 2022 20:04
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nitsuga posted:I'm not that well versed in the Nissan world, but it does seem that they are notorious for issues with their CVTs from that era. I'd say it wouldn't hurt to have another shop take a look, but I'd definitely go the route of diagnosis first, just like the dealership did. Flushing the fluid alone is just throwing money down the drain at this point. If an independent shop comes to the same conclusion, a secondhand transmission will probably be a little cheaper, but you do run the risk of being in the same situation in the near future. months ago resurrection: carmax offered me 10K (!!) for it and I took the money and ran. have a 2022 GR86 scheduled for delivery in 3 weeks
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Jan 2, 2022 20:06
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big trivia FAIL posted:months ago resurrection: carmax offered me 10K (!!) for it and I took the money and ran. have a 2022 GR86 scheduled for delivery in 3 weeks Wicked.  6MT?
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Jan 2, 2022 21:36
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A friend of mine has a 2012 Honda Civic and lives where it gets really cold in the winter (like -30 before taking the wind chill into account) I was thinking of getting them a circulating coolant heater as a gift to help with starting their car in the morning (something like this: https://katsblockheater.com/block-heaters/all/circulating-coolant-heater-1500-watt-120-volt). My question/concern is that I've read in a few places that these circulation heaters will not work in cars made after 1995 but no explanation as to why. Is this correct?
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Jan 2, 2022 22:01
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What is the simplest and most convenient way to sell an otherwise basic, unremarkable car (a base model 2013 Subaru Impreza hatchback) that works but has notable problems. The two biggest problem is the hood latch won't lock (the hood is still held down but will visibly flap about above 50 MPH) and the AC doesn't work properly. The hood latch I could probably fix myself but I haven't had the time to figure out what precisely is wrong. The AC is a combination of a failing control unit that I could replace myself and the dealer claims that there is no longer any refrigerant in the system. The latter I can't easily test myself since it's the dead of winter right now and I'm questionable on since the AC did blow cold the last time I used it. It just wouldn't blow full blast at any temperature because of the control unit. The hood latch is probably trivial to fix but the AC sounds expensive between hunting down the source of the leak, repairing it, and recharging it. At this point, though, I don't want to deal with it. I tried to sell it back to the Subaru dealer but they only wanted $4000 for it (I was going to go as low as $6000 since KBB value is between $5000 to $7000 as it has never been in an accident, only has minor scrapes and dings, and is in otherwise good mechanical condition besides the aforementioned issue) although that was before the aforementioned issues cropped up. (Though with the AC issue, I was aware of the controller issue but not the supposed lack of refrigerant) The dealer's justification was the exhaust had a pinhole leak that they would have had to fix and to be able to warranty it to be able to sell it as Per-Certified Owned. I knew it was bullshit (perhaps valid but bullshit nonetheless) and walked away. I'm slightly regretting having done so in light of these new problems but I'm reticent on crawling back to them on principle and they may lowball me further because of those problems. I'd prefer not to do private sales via Craigslist or whatever is popular and/or preferred these days since I'd rather not be bothered with managing potential sellers even if it means I don't get my full moneys worth by having a middleman. Would I be better off fixing the AC or just selling as is? What can I expect to get as is with the current issues? Any recommended sites or services for selling the car with or sell to? Can I expect any difference if I trade it in for a new car? Potentially at a different dealer since I've been eyeing the Hyundai Ionic 5 and it looks like the dealers around me are expecting to get them this month although how much of an upcharge I'll see remains to be seen. One dealer is showing near MSRP and another says call for pricing but either one could be bullshit. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jan 3, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2022 00:27
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Edward IV posted:At this point, though, I don't want to deal with it. I tried to sell it back to the Subaru dealer but they only wanted $4000 for it (I was going to go as low as $6000 since KBB value is between $5000 to $7000 So you wouldn't take $4k for a car worth $5-7k that looks like it needs somewhere between $500 to $1500 worth of work? I mean, you can go ahead and try to throw money at those problems, but you're not likely to come out ahead (you are paying retail for work; a dealer is not). Try carvana/carmax and see if they'll give you any more in it's current condition. The hood latch is almost definitely standard subaru bullshit that requires some PB blaster, a screwdriver and 5 minutes to fix.
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Jan 3, 2022 00:58
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Inner Light posted:Holy crap I was blown away when I looked at the MSRP for Traverse. Is it that much better than other crossovers or something? 38 thousand dollars for a Chevy crossover? Sticker was 50k. It was the premium trim. It was a really good people mover. Only Chevy I’ve ever owned and it did everything you’d want in a not a minivan family vehicle. I’m getting a ‘21 Durango SRT this week to replace it. Gotta get my v8 fix before they all get retired. davecrazy fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jan 3, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2022 01:10
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Motronic posted:So you wouldn't take $4k for a car worth $5-7k that looks like it needs somewhere between $500 to $1500 worth of work? The $4k appraisal came up before the lack of refrigerant was discovered so I am kicking myself for setting my standards too high and not making it the dealer's problem. However, that's the dealer's word with no easy way to test it myself right now. That said, that's a really aggressive lie or exaggeration for the service department to push. My parents recommended taking it to a private shop that they trust instead of continuing work with the dealer but just having it looked at will cost between $100 to $200. And as you said, (and my parents and I concur) throwing more money at it is probably not worth it. Is there an easy way to tell if there is any refrigerant left besides seeing if it blows cold? That's a bit hard to do right now since the warmest it's going to get this week is 46F. As for the hood latch, they said they hit it with WD40 to no avail before I took the car back. It's currently at my parent's house so I don't have access to it right now. That said, I noticed that the interior release handle has no resistance when pulling on it. I don't know if that is indicative of a particular kind of failure.
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Jan 3, 2022 01:37
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pnac attack posted:what do you think breaks first on a car when it gets buried in snow? how heavy is snow per foot anyways? https://jalopnik.com/cars-arrive-at-port-covered-in-salty-ice-after-ship-sai-1848288500 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8pr4kTaBiU
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Jan 3, 2022 02:06
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Edward IV posted:The $4k appraisal came up before the lack of refrigerant was discovered so I am kicking myself for setting my standards too high and not making it the dealer's problem. However, that's the dealer's word with no easy way to test it myself right now. That said, that's a really aggressive lie or exaggeration for the service department to push. My parents recommended taking it to a private shop that they trust instead of continuing work with the dealer but just having it looked at will cost between $100 to $200. And as you said, (and my parents and I concur) throwing more money at it is probably not worth it. Is there an easy way to tell if there is any refrigerant left besides seeing if it blows cold? That's a bit hard to do right now since the warmest it's going to get this week is 46F. Does the hood sit up higher than the fenders? If it sits flush with the fenders but still shakes and rattles, then you might try adjusting the little rubber stoppers under the hood. They probably need to be adjusted to the up direction. Sometimes they slip down. Have had that issue with a few vehicles and adjusting the bumpers remedied it in seconds for zero dollars. If it sits higher, then yeah. It's probably the latch
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Jan 3, 2022 03:13
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Edward IV posted:The $4k appraisal came up before the lack of refrigerant was discovered so I am kicking myself for setting my standards too high and not making it the dealer's problem. However, that's the dealer's word with no easy way to test it myself right now. That said, that's a really aggressive lie or exaggeration for the service department to push. My parents recommended taking it to a private shop that they trust instead of continuing work with the dealer but just having it looked at will cost between $100 to $200. And as you said, (and my parents and I concur) throwing more money at it is probably not worth it. Is there an easy way to tell if there is any refrigerant left besides seeing if it blows cold? That's a bit hard to do right now since the warmest it's going to get this week is 46F. theres usually a low pressure cutoff switch somewhere in the system, if you find it you could measure continuity across it to see if it thinks there's pressure. if the compressor clutch is engaging at all, that usually means it thinks there is some refrigerant in there since your release handle has no resistance, i would guess that the cable is binding somewhere, but it could just be the mechanism. probably shooting penetrating oil at the right spot (WD40 is only halfway ok at this) has a good chance of working. you might need to shove the linkage around a bit to loosen it up once the oil is in 
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Jan 3, 2022 03:19
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wesleywillis posted:Does the hood sit up higher than the fenders? If it sits flush with the fenders but still shakes and rattles, then you might try adjusting the little rubber stoppers under the hood. They probably need to be adjusted to the up direction. Sometimes they slip down. Have had that issue with a few vehicles and adjusting the bumpers remedied it in seconds for zero dollars. The hood does sit flush with the fenders but a trivial amount of force is needed to lift the hood up against the safety latch. In fact, at above 50 MPH, there is enough aerodynamic drag to cause the hood flop up and down against the safety latch and it scared the heck out of me the first time it happened. So clearly, the main latch itself works but whatever mechanism that locks that latch isn't working. Between shenanigans with the dealer's service department and otherwise neglecting the car, I have no idea precisely when this happened or how. Now that I've looked up the part and how it fits in the car, I'll have a better idea as to how to diagnose and maybe remove it instead of trying to figure it out on the side of the highway.
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Jan 3, 2022 04:11
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big trivia FAIL posted:My wife has a 2014 Nissan Juke ... I sold my 2008 Versa last fall. It had a CVT. I knew it would be the end of the thing eventually, and it was. The warning you get is that the car will operate normally, forward & reverse, for a half-hour or so after cold start before the thing starts to slip. After about an hour, you're stranded as though it's perpetually in neutral: runs great, goes nowhere. Once it cools down, it'll run great for a half-hour... Edward IV posted:The hood does sit flush with the fenders but a trivial amount of force is needed to lift the hood up against the safety latch. Either a bad release cable preventing the latch from returning all the way, or a latch in need of lubrication. If it's really cold out, hit it with WD-40. If you can get it warmed up above 45-degrees, chain lube or lithium grease down along the latch plate, and work it back & forth (if it's the cable - then you'll eventually have to replace the cable. On my 2000 Accord, I have a bad, sticky cable, so I have to physically pull the latch plate into the proper receiving position by hand before shutting the hood in order to get the latch to lock). If none of that works/it's too damned cold, at the least put a bungee across the hood. The safety is just that, and it can bounce loose. I have had a hood come up on me at speed; I was able to stop without hitting anything, but nearly poo poo myself. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Jan 3, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2022 05:48
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Edward IV posted:The hood does sit flush with the fenders but a trivial amount of force is needed to lift the hood up against the safety latch. In fact, at above 50 MPH, there is enough aerodynamic drag to cause the hood flop up and down against the safety latch and it scared the heck out of me the first time it happened. So clearly, the main latch itself works but whatever mechanism that locks that latch isn't working. Between shenanigans with the dealer's service department and otherwise neglecting the car, I have no idea precisely when this happened or how. I've had this happen where my hood latch was stuck due to rust and grime, the cable didn't do anything anymore. It was a matter of judiciously applying penetrant (I used WD-40 specialist penetrant) and yanking on the hood, prying with a screwdriver, pulling on the cable (not too hard, it could snap) etc until it finally came loose. Then I cleaned it really well with brake cleaner and a wire brush, made sure everything was working and lubed it up again using fluid film. Supposedly because you can already lift your hood a bit, it should be easier for you to get in there to shoot penetrant in there and get a screwdriver in.
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Jan 3, 2022 15:26
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Mr. Apollo posted:A friend of mine has a 2012 Honda Civic and lives where it gets really cold in the winter (like -30 before taking the wind chill into account) I was thinking of getting them a circulating coolant heater as a gift to help with starting their car in the morning (something like this: https://katsblockheater.com/block-heaters/all/circulating-coolant-heater-1500-watt-120-volt). My best guess is that some OBD2 computers freak out if they see an ice cold intake air temperature and a warmish engine temperature but really they should just treat it like a warm start anyway.
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Jan 3, 2022 15:27
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PainterofCrap posted:I sold my 2008 Versa last fall. It had a CVT. I knew it would be the end of the thing eventually, and it was. Yes, what happened to her was limp mode after an hour on the interstate. After it cooled down, it ran fine. I took it to another mechanic that, while he doesn't work on private cars that aren't his, does work on the city government fleet and he confirmed the trans was kaput after taking a look at it. I still can't believe CarMax gave me $10K for it.
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Jan 3, 2022 16:28
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It was super cold here in Omaha Saturday (today is Monday). Right around 0 Freedom temperature units or -18 C. I wanted to move my 1995 Lexus SC400 off the street, but it refused to start. The L-train had a low battery when my attempts to start the car began. I retrieved a fully charged lithium booster pack and the car would turn over a couple of times before the booster pack would kind of freak out. So I moved my 1993 Toyota Pickup in range and tried to jump the Lexus the old-fashioned way. I let the Toyota charge the battery of its more luxurious brother for about 15 minutes. I could get the Lexus to crank, but again no start. So I gave up and went inside and started reading on the internet about what could be going wrong. I found many references to bad capacitors in the ECU. The controls for the HVAC system are getting a little flakey, and bad caps are a common solution there, too. The internet said if you spray starting fluid into the throttle and then she'll run, that pretty much confirms an ECU cap issue. I went outside and tried to spray some starting fluid, but the intake plastic and the intake hose rubber were very stiff from cold, so I gave up before something ended up broken. I did drag an extension cord and a "real" battery charger out to the old girl and let the battery charge on 2A mode for a few hours. Then later I put the charger away because it was snowing and I wanted to close the hood. So yesterday (Sunday) I was outside doing something else. I thought I would go ahead and try to start the Lexus again just for giggles. To my shock and amazement it sprang right to life. I let it run for a few minutes, took it for a spin around the neighborhood, and parked it at the top of my driveway so it wasn't blocking anything else in. The ambient temperature was about 10 degrees Freedom fwiw. TLDR: Should I replace the caps in my 27-year-old car's ECU or did the battery just need more charge juice than it could vampire away from another vehicle? Edit to add: I have some experience soldering up through-hole projects. I have a Weller soldering station and have been on the fence about buying a desoldering station for a while. This car is full of little control boxes, each of which is packed with caps that are way past their expected service life. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jan 3, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2022 19:36
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PBCrunch posted:TLDR: Should I replace the caps in my 27-year-old car's ECU or did the battery just need more charge juice than it could vampire away from another vehicle? It was cold and your car didn't want to start. You charged the battery, waited until it was warmer, and the car started. If you hear hoofbeats, don't expect to see a zebra. It was probably the battery That said, if you want to buy a spare ECU and try swapping the caps on that to take it off your mind, it might be nice to take that off your mind.
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Jan 3, 2022 20:03
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Battery, corroded clamps/connectors, or both.
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Jan 3, 2022 23:02
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