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Rinkles posted:How much would a 3060ti be at MC? This is from my local Microcenter so it probably varies some, ignore the red. 
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Jan 2, 2022 06:26
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MaxxBot posted:This is from my local Microcenter so it probably varies some, ignore the red. Whoever is maintaining that spreadsheet should really have a "last seen" column so they can track when the last time anyone saw a particular model in the wild. Like, I doubt the $599 Gigabyte 3070 Ti Eagle was sold beyond the launch month. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 2, 2022 06:41
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Yeah they never have the cheapest ones on the list, usually the higher end models but not always the absurdly overpriced ones.
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Jan 2, 2022 06:45
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CoolCab posted:oh powerwise I'd expect you'll be fine, yeah. a logical next step upgrade for you would be a CPU+mobo+ram combo if you can find it, you could get something much better for a couple hundred bucks - you've scored the hard part. But as you say, I've scored the hard part, and nothing is now actively dying, so now I get to plan the rest out and do it on my timeframe and when I'm okay dropping the money on it. In the mean time, I'm glorying in the whisper quiet of my computer as a 3060 ti GPU is asked to render below 1080p and laughs its rear end off and then does it in its sleep. moctopus posted:Sorry, this is probably a common question, but I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. Go to Google Maps and see if there's a Micro Center close to you. "Close" is defined here as "you can tolerate the drive". (Mine was 30 miles and about 40 minutes in the car away.) If there is, find out what days they're getting deliveries in this week. They post the days on signs on their storefront, there's discords, and while I'm not sure, I imagine if you called and asked, they'd tell you. Show up at 8 am on delivery day. They'll have a sign posted giving the day's inventory. If you don't see anything you like, go home and try again next time. Otherwise, scan the QR code and fill out the quick form to enter yourself into the raffle. Raffle is on or around 8:40-8:45. If you get a text message before then telling you you're in, great! Be there. If not, maybe show up anyway? At least on the day I was there, multiple people who got chosen were no-shows and people who hadn't originally won the raffle got their spots. The raffle also ordered everyone randomly. You come up in order and tell the nice person what card you want, and they give you a voucher for it. First come first served, so if they've got twelve 3070s and twelve people say they want one before you get called up, no 3070 for you today. Pick something else or come back another day to try again. Once you have your voucher, you're guaranteed that card. Go into Micro Center, do any other shopping you need, then go get your card with no need to rush. Be aware, Micro Center isn't selling at MSRP either. They seem to be marking up at about $250-300 above that, which is still a steal in today's bullshit market. Grand Fromage posted:I do play a lot of strategy/sim games too. CPU would be handling like, agent pathing in Cities: Skylines?
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Jan 2, 2022 07:33
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South posted:Sorry, not trying to be a jerk but I have to disagree with you. This is just general bias. For the most part, everyone has had a bad experience with a electronic component brand, even if the brand is generally fine. I do too. But Asus’s mid and higher tier stuff is generally very well regarded outside of specific models. And the Ethernet issues (and maybe the WiFi) you speak of are mostly down to a lovely Ethernet controller not made by them. You don’t buy PC parts on brand. You buy on features and power, with some reliability checking of course. If you have no idea where to start, most of Asus’s stuff is fine, and they tend to have the features that person was looking for (they pack in fan headers and have excellent BIOS). Re: front panel surgery. I have that exact same problem with my 140mm Noctuas and my define 7. I may give that a shot. Thanks! kliras posted:Are there any tricks for releasing the latch for your GPU, maybe even some accessories to put on them? Removing my GPU next to my huge air cooler is always a mess, and I can't even manage my SATA cables without taking a whole day to futz with it. Anyone in a similar situation who's found a way to stay sane and manage it effortlessly? The safest thing is a plastic spudger. I use these cause I have tons of them, but any hard plastic with a flat edge will work. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Spudger-Opening-Tablets-MacBook/dp/B01DGNCNR0/ Even something like a stiff plastic butter knife or the handle on something small and thin. Chopsticks work great too.
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Jan 2, 2022 07:35
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Rinkles posted:I realized there's another downside to the A500 cooler. I don't think Corsair will bother making any future socket mounting kits for it (LGA 1700 included). CoolCab posted:uh, i dunno about that, i'd contact corsair and ask if they intend to extend support. my intuitive assumption would be they will, i imagine they'll still be making other cooler products and wouldn't want the bad press of failing to offer the same support as is industry standard.
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Jan 2, 2022 22:25
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loving horseshit! i'm actually kind of shocked, that cannot be a huge expense for them or at least sell one. what shitheads.
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Jan 2, 2022 22:32
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I think it's a dead end product they'd rather everyone forget about.
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Jan 2, 2022 22:38
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Rinkles posted:I think it's a dead end product they'd rather everyone forget about. ugh still it must have been designed to do that, what a huge increase in ewaste for a product that is in terms of the bleeding edge already completely redundant. oh i missed this Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:
yeah that's absolutely a great point, i always forget. if it's a turn based game and the turns take time more CPU will i think almost universally make the game a much higher QoL experience, imo.
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Jan 2, 2022 23:06
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Grand Fromage posted:What exactly would I be getting going from a 1600 to a 5600X, but keeping the same GPU (RTX 2060)? I know a bunch of people have answered this, but I didn’t see much mention of 0.1 and 1% lows. The 1600 has much lower ipc than 3rd gen ryzen and this is what will be helped the most with a 5600x upgrade. Your average frame rate might only go up a few percent, but your 0.1 and 1% lows will be helped in a ton of titles.
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Jan 2, 2022 23:27
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https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/aw...-awd-it-3864788 not a terrible UK based deal, was someone looking for a high end deal? 2k with a 3080ti, 5600x, adequate ram is not terrible and the deals are shite right now. 7 left.
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Jan 2, 2022 23:36
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Canna Happy posted:0.1 and 1% lows What does this mean? I've found some posts about it but uh... I don't know what they're talking about.
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Jan 3, 2022 00:56
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Back again, but this time to look at what I can improve without factoring in a new GPU. What country are you in? U.S. What are you using the system for? I used to do fairly intense design work on it, but nowadays, I'm looking to go Full Gamer What's your budget? $1000ish, though that's probably overkill? Resolution/refresh? How fancy? Display 1 is 1440p/165hz (the gamer monitor) and display 2 is 1440p/60hz (the Ultrasharp design monitor). At this point, I want games to look/run as pretty as possible at 1440p running at 60-120 FPS. Current build: PCPartPicker I'm happy with my storage, so I'm mostly looking at mobo, CPU, and RAM. While I'd love to get a 3080, I'd rather wait to snipe one at MSRP (+ $200, if I'm desperate) than pay what I see most days. I figure the better move is to improve everything else, with the distant hope that I'll get a new GPU in the next month to 3 years. Main reason I'm doing this is because my fiance's GPU started to crumble over the last few months, so he grabbed a prebuilt with good internals to replace most of his setup. I think I'll cop his NZXT H510 Elite, but the rest of the parts are nearly identical to mine. A part of me wonders if sitting on my current build and waiting for the lucky 3080 get is the better solution, but hell, if I can comfortably afford to upgrade the rest of it, I'd like to do it.
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Jan 3, 2022 01:01
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Grand Fromage posted:What does this mean? I've found some posts about it but uh... I don't know what they're talking about. it's what i was talking about with CPU bottlenecks - the majority of the time you are GPU bound and as such achieve whatever your GPU can do, but when it shifts to the CPU the minority of the time you get slowdown which isn't accurately represented in an average FPS. that's the microstuttering, hitching etc behaviour whenever it has to do something CPU heavy. you can represent this by calculating not just the average, but the average of the worst 1% of the period or the worst .1% of the period.
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Jan 3, 2022 01:07
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broken pixel posted:Back again, but this time to look at what I can improve without factoring in a new GPU. That builds like... Still pretty good. I don't think your cpu is a major issue, it's matched pretty well to your gpu and going forward they may sort out ddr5 before you score a new gpu anyways. Amd is announcing a new socket for Zen 4 and Intel z690 boards are overpriced rn. So personally I'd just sit on it. Though you could get more ssd storage(and it'd move forward to the new build) they're dirt cheap now. I got a 2TB Samsung 970 pro M.2 for the same price I paid for a 500gb Samsung 850evo or something sata drive in 2017
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Jan 3, 2022 01:16
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buy the GPU then buy everything else don't do the opposite. you'll wind up with those parts burning a hole in your pocket.
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Jan 3, 2022 01:23
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broken pixel posted:Back again, but this time to look at what I can improve without factoring in a new GPU. What city
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Jan 3, 2022 02:11
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broken pixel posted:Back again, but this time to look at what I can improve without factoring in a new GPU. GPU first, then everything else. Your parts are fine for now, and the majority of your bottleneck is in the GPU. You may end up spending $800 and not be able to get any benefit out of them for like a year+. Be happy you have a working 2060, most people aren't as fortunate right now. Microcenter or play the newegg shuffle/stock discord game. No other options here. Grand Fromage posted:What does this mean? I've found some posts about it but uh... I don't know what they're talking about. It's a consistency benchmark. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXepIWi4SgM Short answer is FPS is generally measured as an average. 1%/0.1% lows are the lowest dips in your average framerate. Poor lows can contribute to stutter, choppiness, input lag, etc. You want your lows as close to your average FPS as possible, although they're never very close. May add this to the OP. It's a good question.
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Jan 3, 2022 02:22
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My company wants to move most people to laptops and have a good workstation in the office that can be remote-desktop'd into to use some heavy duty and one-off engineering programs that require USB dongles (like some finite element modelling). I'm going to be leaving the company and they don't want me to built one by hand this time and they want to get something pre-built. Now this isn't gaming focused so I don't even think it really needs a GPU (or something weak) which should hopefully help increase options, but should have probably 64GB of decent ram (or 2x16GB stick and can add 2x16GB later), reliable PSU brand in it, and reliable SSD brand (1TB), and probably a higher-end Zen 3 or latest intel. What's a decent reliable company to go to for prebuilts these days? GN's videos pretty much show only hilariously awful garbage. I know Dell has been dog-poo poo recently quote:What country are you in? US
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Jan 3, 2022 03:05
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What do you do that requires that much ram but no graphics
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Jan 3, 2022 03:18
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Thanks everyone! I'll probably sit on what I have and continue the long, long, awful GPU hunt.SSJ_naruto_2003 posted:That builds like... Still pretty good. I don't think your cpu is a major issue, it's matched pretty well to your gpu and going forward they may sort out ddr5 before you score a new gpu anyways. Amd is announcing a new socket for Zen 4 and Intel z690 boards are overpriced rn. That's a good point, actually. I have a lot of external HDD storage, but if I could tack on more SSD for games, that'd be great. Alan Smithee posted:What city Tulsa, OK, which is about 4 hours from the nearest Micro Center. Pilfered Pallbearers posted:GPU first, then everything else. Your parts are fine for now, and the majority of your bottleneck is in the GPU. You may end up spending $800 and not be able to get any benefit out of them for like a year+. Be happy you have a working 2060, most people aren't as fortunate right now. Fair enough! I have a few stock Discord channels set up to ping me, and I finally signed up for Shuffle a few days ago. Edit: Also, yeah, after my fiance's GPU started to die out, I became extremely appreciative of the 2060. It's been reliable, and that's all I can ask.
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Jan 3, 2022 04:11
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Alan Smithee posted:What do you do that requires that much ram but no graphics
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Jan 3, 2022 04:14
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i got an alert that i was chosen for the shuffle the other day. for DDR5 
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Jan 3, 2022 04:42
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edit: redundant
lurker2006 fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Jan 3, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2022 04:51
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Too Many Birds posted:i got an alert that i was chosen for the shuffle the other day. only pick what you want, narrow it down to 1 or 2
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Jan 3, 2022 06:07
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broken pixel posted:Tulsa, OK, which is about 4 hours from the nearest Micro Center. sounds like you got a few Best Buys at least, could check app. Dono how much traffic they get
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Jan 3, 2022 06:09
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I got my new build put together and it works great, thanks for the advice! But as the PSU was one of the slowest parts to get shipped to me, I was using the old PSU from my old computer as I was putting the new one together. New computer worked fine with the old PSU, I put the new PSU in and it worked fine, I put the old PSU back in the old computer and... now the old computer is power cycling. It seemed fine at first, but then the time that it stays on for went from hours, to minutes, to sometimes just a few seconds. I've tried unplugging all the drives and booting with just one stick of RAM - it'll sit at the UEFI screen for a while before resetting. The PSU is a 7-year-old Silverstone ST45SF-G, so it's been out of warranty for 4 years, so maybe I just hastened the inevitable. But the idea that I ruined a working PSU by moving it between systems is upsetting to me still, so... any other ideas, or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one? (Optionally bite another bullet and take the new PSU out of my finished new system to verify that the old PSU is the problem, and that I didn't damage the motherboard by loving around with its power cables... but god I am really not in the mood for further loving around with power cables right now.) Old system: i5-4690, ASRock H97M-ITX/AC, Silverstone ML07B, running off of integrated graphics after I moved its MSI N760 to the new system.
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Jan 3, 2022 09:53
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Xaris posted:My company wants to move most people to laptops and have a good workstation in the office that can be remote-desktop'd into to use some heavy duty and one-off engineering programs that require USB dongles (like some finite element modelling). I'm going to be leaving the company and they don't want me to built one by hand this time and they want to get something pre-built. Are you talking about Dell's consumer or business desktops? We haven't used OptiPlexes at work for ages, they haven't won a tender for a decade, but I don't see how Dell would have the leeway to be any worse than HP or Lenovo business desktops, and those have been perfectly decent for office use. Basically their only weakness is on the GPU side and if you don't need a powerful GPU there isn't much that a business class SFF computer with a 5 year next-business-day warranty doesn't provide. And at least in my organization getting a new computer has so much bureaucracy and delay that I wouldn't accept less than 5Y NBD.
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Jan 3, 2022 12:47
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With the prices of video cards and DDR5 memory, I ended up throwing the towel in the ring and spending some of my budget on a used T480s to install FreeBSD on, since I've been using a T420 running FreeBSD for several years as my daily driver - to the point that my workstation hasn't even been turned on. I'll return again at a later point, when prices have calmed the gently caress down. Thanks for the help!
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Jan 3, 2022 14:37
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Scrabble Tournament posted:I got my new build put together and it works great, thanks for the advice! I’d check the cpu and motherboard power connectors again. If you live near a physical place that you can go to and return poo poo to like microcenter or best buy, buy one from there so you can return it if it’s not the PSU. 3 year warranty PSUs are generally bad, and 4 years out of warranty is not ideal. It should have been replaced anyway.
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Jan 3, 2022 15:09
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CoolCab posted:ugh still it must have been designed to do that, what a huge increase in ewaste for a product that is in terms of the bleeding edge already completely redundant. On the other hand it reduces e-waste if the cooler stays with the old computer which can continue it's life. I'm not sure if I've ever reused a cooler, unless the motherboard has failed the computer goes for some other use. And even if there isn't any more use for the cooler it's not much of an e-waste. The fans can be reused as case coolers, a little bit of plastic and most of it is metal which can be readily recycled.
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Jan 3, 2022 15:54
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Alan Smithee posted:only pick what you want, narrow it down to 1 or 2 yeah i initially selected all the DDR5 + i7 combos because i figured i could sell the ram and get a cheaper CPU but after doing the math it just really isn't worth the effort. GPUs only from here on out.
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Jan 3, 2022 17:32
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Going to start looking for a prebuilt pc and was wondering if anyone had a good advice for a price range to look for? I want a good set up but I am not aiming to go all out on it or anything.
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Jan 3, 2022 23:51
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Hunt11 posted:Going to start looking for a prebuilt pc and was wondering if anyone had a good advice for a price range to look for? I want a good set up but I am not aiming to go all out on it or anything. What country are you in, what do you want to use the pc for, what’s your upper limit?
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Jan 4, 2022 00:00
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yeah, and what's your monitor or target monitor (resolution and refresh rate), that's another biggie
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Jan 4, 2022 00:05
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Butterfly Valley posted:What country are you in, what do you want to use the pc for, what’s your upper limit? I am in the US and it would mostly be for gaming. I will be doing some work on it but right now a lot of what I am doing just needs connection to the internet so I am not worried in that regards. CoolCab posted:yeah, and what's your monitor or target monitor (resolution and refresh rate), that's another biggie I am right now thinking of a GIGABYTE M32Q 32" 165Hz Gaming Monitor.
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Jan 4, 2022 00:20
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nice, i'm at 165Hz QHD too it's a great spot to be, but you might wanna ask in the monitor thread if that's the best in that slot in terms of price/performance and features and stuff. to push that display i would recommend at least a 3070 or 3070ti. most important component for gaming by a lot. at least 16 gigs of ram and at least 3000mhz at cl16 ideally, a high performance CPU (come bring it here and we'll tell you if it's good) with six or more cores and don't overspend here. a ryzen 3600, 5600x, 11400k, 10400k something around there are all fine. higher core counts are kind of wasted value for gaming unless you do something else with the machine, so don't buy a high end CPU and lower end GPU because people misconfigure prebuilds all the time. what like, 1300-1500 bucks sound reasonable to yanks?
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Jan 4, 2022 00:31
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:I’d check the cpu and motherboard power connectors again. I ended up just trying with the new PSU and it's working fine, so I guess that answers that. I know the old PSU was a liability, but I'm still gonna be mad that moving it around was what killed it. Edit: Not sure if it means anything, but the PSU turns on and stays on if I do the paper clip test. Scrabble Tournament fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Jan 4, 2022 |
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Jan 4, 2022 03:50
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Hunt11 posted:Going to start looking for a prebuilt pc and was wondering if anyone had a good advice for a price range to look for? I want a good set up but I am not aiming to go all out on it or anything. lurker2006 fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jan 4, 2022 |
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Jan 4, 2022 17:27
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I've decided to switch up my PC storage/get rid of one of my old hard drives. Currently it goes like this: C: Crucial CT275MX300 (old 275 GB 2.5" SSD, OS) D: Seagate Barracuda HDD (4 TB 3.5" HDD, media storage) E: Seagate HDD (1 TB 3.5" HDD, many years old, used to be OS, now general backup) F: WD Blue SN550 NVMe (1 TB, currently used for games) I'm planning on 1) moving the games to a new 1 TB SSD (which is currently the goon recommended one? Is it the Crucial MX500?) 2) move the OS from the old MX300 to the WD Blue NVMe 3) move the backup information to the old MX300 and retire the old HDD, meaning I'll only have the newer, bigger HDD still spinnin' rust in my rig Does this seem like a decent enough plan? Are there any other new 1 TB SSDs I should consider? I should've struck when the iron was hot awhile ago and the MX500 was going for £60 or so, but I was unemployed then. It's currently available for £75 though.
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Jan 4, 2022 17:39
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