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a fatguy baldspot posted:I just started this hobby, I'm really enjoying it - it's relaxing to be able to focus on something so intently. This is one of my first guys, meet Hoof Hartley. Primed with Krylon matte white, then coated with Vallejo sky grey followed by cold white. I'm not quite done painting him, but I was struck by a question: Why does he look so bad?? The thing that made the biggest difference to me as a newer painter is getting a wet palette and learning how to use it appropriately. It makes a world of difference and generally keeps you from putting too much paint on a miniature at any time. I also highly recommend getting some flow improver for thinning. I use flow improver without an airbrush all the time. If you want to go a step further, contrast paints (either Games Workshop or homemade) can also make life much easier as a new painter. They force you to only use thin coats so unless you just really gently caress up with your line work, you can't glob paint on a model. Making your own contrast medium is super easy and cheap. Just get a few dropper bottles and start with a blend of 1/2 matte medium and 1/2 flow improver. When you put a drop of paint on your palette, just put a drop of your homemade medium and mix it. You won't ever overpaint again and can create some good layering effects.
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Jan 6, 2022 17:49
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Thanks for all the model rope suggestions my dudes. PoptartsNinja, I followed your suggestion on Amazon twisted craft wire but it's a bit difficult for me to know for sure what is the exact size (or diameter I guess) of the craft wires are but there does appear to be a wide selection of types. It makes me wonder if I could take a jaunt down to my local craft store and see some for myself. None show up on the store website but I have a feeling they might have something like the beading wire Bucnasti mentioned anyway. Re: Army Painter wire, is that the razor wire they sell? That's the only kind of thing I can find of theirs that resembles modeling rope. Re: Guitar Wire. I've seen that exact pack of Ernie Ball guitar wire at a local music store I visited with a friend a few months back and checking their website says they have them in stock. At $7.49CND a pop that may be the route that I end up going.
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Jan 6, 2022 17:58
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I absolutely have to insist people use eye protection with guitar strings. Even if you're legitimately replacing your guitar strings.
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Jan 6, 2022 18:05
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a fatguy baldspot posted:I just started this hobby, I'm really enjoying it - it's relaxing to be able to focus on something so intently. This is one of my first guys, meet Hoof Hartley. Primed with Krylon matte white, then coated with Vallejo sky grey followed by cold white. I'm not quite done painting him, but I was struck by a question: Why does he look so bad?? So, there are several reasons why poor Hoof looks a bit hard done by. The first, as people already mentioned, is thick paint layers. It's tempting to try and force poor-covering paint by just adding more, but it's probably quicker to apply three or four coats of a much thinner paint than trying to fix one bad thick coat. However, when you start thinning your paints, make super sure that you're not overloading your brush. A full brush is going to splooge paint everyone the moment it hits your model. You can see an example of this in your second group of models in the recesses of the jetpack. Instead, wipe off the excess onto a paper towel. As you gain experience, you'll start understanding how different paints work and what different consistencies do. The second major issue is that white is already the brightest possible color. Minis are so small that they don't generate their own shadows, which is why they tend to look fake, flat and plastic. You need to add the highlights and shadows appropriately to achieve a more realistic, or at least more interesting effect. A good way of identifying highlights and shadows is to basecoat satin black, put it under a strong lamp and take a photo. Then overexpose the photo to heck and you'll get a very useful intensity map of where you need to focus your attention. If you're new, focus on brush control and getting to know your paint. Less is more, and you'll feel much more in control with a brush that has too little paint than too much.
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Jan 6, 2022 18:48
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I absolutely have to insist people use eye protection with guitar strings. Even if you're legitimately replacing your guitar strings. In addition to eye-pro I even started putting my hands under my table when snipping them so the wire has less poo poo to destroy as it rockets into space. Actually, go hardcore and get a special cardboard box that has a hole just big enough to get your hand and snips into.
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Jan 6, 2022 20:56
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Wrr posted:In addition to eye-pro I even started putting my hands under my table when snipping them so the wire has less poo poo to destroy as it rockets into space. Going truly hardcore would be one of these bad boys  probably not a terrible idea if you deal with a lot of recasts
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Jan 6, 2022 23:11
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Update from the club painting competition. Still a few entrants missing, judging will be in 2 weeks. Figured out the reason behind the horrible club colors, the store owners family are all Miami Dolphins fans 😆     Another guy tried to score some extra points by imitating the pants the Dolphins way. Another guy printed and added a smokey hat and bare arms to make a catachan marine. MRLOLAST fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Jan 6, 2022 |
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Jan 6, 2022 23:48
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I absolutely have to insist people use eye protection with guitar strings. Even if you're legitimately replacing your guitar strings.
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Jan 7, 2022 13:00
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Whenever you're cutting metal there's always a risk of shards flying everywhere. Doubly so for guitar strings because they naturally lust for the taste of fingertip flesh so who knows what'll happen if they go airborne.
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Jan 7, 2022 14:16
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Thanks for the help, everyone. I realized one of the problems was that I was using a detail brush for everything - I’ve since gotten a medium and a large, lol. Been watching a lot of that Duncan dude too. Man’s got a pleasing voice
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Jan 7, 2022 14:37
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Radiation Cow posted:A full brush is going to splooge paint everyone the moment it hits your model. You can see an example of this in your second group of models in the recesses of the jetpack. Do you mean in the middle? Is there any way to fix this or is it too late?
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Jan 7, 2022 14:53
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Pierzak posted:Why? The risk of bits of springy wire flying off in random direction when cut off and embedding itself in sensitive squishy bits? When cutting them, yes, those things go launching in a random direction at mach speed. Like I said, gave my monitor a dead pixel when it hit it. I don't know about wiring guitars but in the cartoons when the a guitar breaks the strings get all wiggly and hosed up so I guess that could happen? Actually I suppose the whole function of a guitar string requires it to be a ton of tension to get taught enough to function and it breaking or you loving up restringing it is going to release all that energy somewhere. Also your face is going to be right there in whipping range.
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Jan 7, 2022 15:05
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I was given a Dexcessa Talon of Slaanesh model for Christmas and I'm terrified to gently caress up painting it. Is this the sort of model where I could do most of my base with an airbrush? I'm used to only using brushes for humanoids but this is slightly larger than what I've done before so I think it might make sense to spray. edit: Wrr posted:When cutting them, yes, those things go launching in a random direction at mach speed. Like I said, gave my monitor a dead pixel when it hit it. you should just wind them down before you cut them and they won't spring at all. i've never he one shoot around when i change strings. punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Jan 7, 2022 |
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Jan 7, 2022 15:07
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Wrr posted:the whole function of a guitar string requires it to be a ton of tension to get taut enough to function and it breaking or you loving up restringing it is going to release all that energy somewhere Now that I think of it, wouldn't poking the end piece into a bit of cork/foam help with containing it?
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Jan 7, 2022 15:24
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Pierzak posted:Right, forgot about that. I think it would depend on how much of the other end you're putting into the foam or cork. If its only tiny amount I think it might still fly out a bit, but otherwise I think that would work decent enough.
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Jan 7, 2022 15:54
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a fatguy baldspot posted:Do you mean in the middle? Is there any way to fix this or is it too late? You can probably fix it with a wash of nuln oil or another dark wash, focusing on getting the wash in the recesses instead of on the complete jetpack.
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Jan 7, 2022 17:04
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Wrr posted:When cutting them, yes, those things go launching in a random direction at mach speed. Like I said, gave my monitor a dead pixel when it hit it. Hold one part of the string with your thumb and index finger, then curl your pinky/ring finger down around the second part (like you're doing a german 3). Cut in the middle. Your hand should look like you're flipping someone off because your middle finger is extended. Place the cutters where your middle finger would be grasping the string. Works for anything you cut that has a chance of flying off and going somewhere you can't find.
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Jan 7, 2022 17:33
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Really happy with how this turned out.  
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Jan 7, 2022 17:59
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You should be because that owns.
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Jan 7, 2022 18:32
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Floppychop posted:Going truly hardcore would be one of these bad boys 
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Jan 7, 2022 19:30
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The proper way to cut guitar strings. https://i.imgur.com/vmWGUg2.mp4
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Jan 8, 2022 06:06
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I finally finished me and my dog, Banjo!   Of course I am bald with a beard 
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Jan 8, 2022 06:31
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Anyone had experience with the Vallejo Galaxy Dust color shifting paints, was considering using one as the main armor color for some Thousand Sons. Specifically thinking of that Turquoise Violet.
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Jan 8, 2022 07:06
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BaronVanAwesome posted:I finally finished me and my dog, Banjo! this is really adorable
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Jan 8, 2022 07:20
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AK-47 posted:Anyone had experience with the Vallejo Galaxy Dust color shifting paints, was considering using one as the main armor color for some Thousand Sons. Specifically thinking of that Turquoise Violet. I tried all the Vallejo shifting paints on some necrons last year and they all looked terrible. For the shifting effect to work well you need large flat surfaces, which necrons do not have. Space Marine armor might work better but you should test it before committing.
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Jan 8, 2022 07:52
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Bucnasti posted:I tried all the Vallejo shifting paints on some necrons last year and they all looked terrible. Good to know and I guess as a follow up, I've been out of the hobby long enough that I'm starting from scratch, are there any good deals for like a whole range of paints out there that are actually worth it rather than buying everything piecemeal?
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Jan 8, 2022 08:54
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AK-47 posted:Good to know and I guess as a follow up, I've been out of the hobby long enough that I'm starting from scratch, are there any good deals for like a whole range of paints out there that are actually worth it rather than buying everything piecemeal? No, not really. Stick to Vallejo and Citadel for the most part, others can work fine, but those are the ones people recommend most (and army painter the least). The reason why the deals on several paints are a bad idea, is because inevitably there will be paints you never use (especially if you get a whole range). That way you up paying more, despite getting a minor discount. In the end you’ll probably want some contrasts, some regular paints, some washes and so on from different ranges. The way I would go about it is to consider the colors you need for what you’re trying to paint and then picking up those. If you want to try a colorshift paint, get the ones you want to try and test them out. For starting out with space marines You’ll probably want two/three tones of your main color (through if you’re going with colorshifts you only need one) a black, and a white. A couple of metallics, Vallejo Metal Color are the absolute best, not Vallejo metallic colors except if you need a copper which is amazing in the metallic line. Citadel ones are fine too, for a really good, no frills, gold for example retributor armor is hard to beat, leadbelcher is a pretty good mid/dark metallic. Probably you also a dark brown and light brown (for bags, pouches and such). A strong red (I like Vallejo flat red, it has really good coverage). A couple of washes, I’d go with citadels nuln oil and agrax earthshade. Finally you might want a beige for parchments and stuff, but you can just mix white and the light brown.
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Jan 8, 2022 09:32
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"Paint sets arent worth it" is usually true, but in the particular use case of "I'm starting from scratch and already know I like the hobby" I can see their value. The problem normally is that someone has picked up a few paints, found they enjoy painting figures and is asking about paint sets, but a paint set is basically "7 set paints for the price of 5 individual paints, plus maybe a kind of crappy brush* or a model or something", so if you already have say a black and a dark green the value is gone because you are paying for 2 bottles you wont use (or at least not for a couple of years when your black runs out and you open the newer bottle). Basically look at a paint set, count the paints you are actually going to use out of it, and divide the price by the number of paints you are going to use. If it comes to less that the normal price of a bottle of paint, well then that set is probably fine. Obviously dont buy any "Complete range of paints!" sets unless you are insane, very wealthy, a hobby youtuber or some combination of those three. I'm not going to recommend a particular starter set because it depends what you will be mainly painting. Like if you are going to be painting a lot of barbarians you will want more flesh tones, if you will be painting tyranids then metallics are little use to you, and so on. But a basic set with maybe a black, white, red, blue, green, a caucasian skin tone, a dark brown, a tan brown and maybe a gray or two is fairly safe. You generally get more milage out of browns and grays than you do purples and oranges, tempting as it is to just buy the rainbow to cover the whole spectrum. Citadel and Vallejo are safe recommendations (being two of the biggest companies doing paint), but honestly I've used paints from army painter, WP, Coat d'Arms, all sorts and each one has good and bad paints within their range. Citadels black is the consistency of tar and their white is famously dogshit for example. Army painter are basically fine, but a lot of their paints benefit massively from shaking the crap out of them (and ideally putting a ball bearing or a glass bead in the bottle), and their yellows are real bad even if you do that. Maybe I'm an edge case (I paint malifaux skirmish warbands mainly, so not 200 figures all in the same livery) but there are precious few paints I'd literally never use, but some definitely get more use than others. If you have a Friendly Local Gamestore I'd see what they carry. *I'm not knocking crappy brushes by the way. I've got a Citadel Starter Brush which came on the front of one of those piecework magazines which was a perfectly servicable basecoat brush for a year, has been a wash brush for another year, and is now being relegated to a drybrush. If you get a set dont throw the brush away, just dont count it when looking at the value of a paint set.
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Jan 8, 2022 11:20
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I honestly never think getting a big set of paints is a good idea, even if starting out from scratch. Unless you have more money than sense and you are setting up a big hobby room and just want everything. Not counting the possible scenario were you just don’t like painting, you’re very likely to want paints from different paint companies, and different lines of paint in those companies. Like inks from liquitex or golden, contrasts from citadel, air paints (even without an airbrush, just the consistency) from Vallejo air, washes from citadel, coal black from p3, wood grain from Vallejo model color, a matte black and a shiny black, and so on and so on. I got a set of 20 Vallejo game color paints of excellent quality when I got back into the hobby (10 years absent) and despite having painted almost 4 full 40k armies, I still have like 10 of those unused.
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Jan 8, 2022 12:03
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Revelation 2-13 posted:I honestly never think getting a big set of paints is a good idea, even if starting out from scratch. Unless you have more money than sense and you are setting up a big hobby room and just want everything. Nothing about having a paint set stops you buying inks or contrasts though? Like I have far too many pots of paint, but having 3 different red acrylics didnt stop me getting blood angels contrast, its got different uses (plus if you want to highlight a contrast paint a bit more you're going to want a basic acrylic in that colour, AFAIK cant highlight with contrast paint). I'm all about mixing paint brands in general and not feeling tied to one line of paints, but for a beginner who just wants enough paints to paint a squad or two now? Nothing wrong with a basic set from the same manufacturer. I mean, if someone wants to research each individual shade and individually buy what they believe to be the best white, best black, best ultramarine blue, best leather brown, best dark brown and so on, more power to their elbow. If someone just wants to plonk down 24 quid for the basic bitch armypainter set of 10 paints; black, white, a mid green, a leather brown, ultramarine blue, a bright yellow (which I know for a fact has iffy coverage, but isnt any worse than a lot of yellow paints I've tried), a mid red, barbarian flesh, plate mail metallic and a bottle of their Strongtone wash (which is a very good multi purpose wash) thats fine too. It gets them a decent starter range of paints, all of which would see at least some use in 99% of army projects. I probably wouldnt go for a bigger starter set than 10-12 paints because then you do start getting into "Okay, realistically how many things do I want to paint purple or pink?" territory. Buying individually would mean spending more money and also more time researching what is a better yellow (its Vallejo Flat Yellow for the record. Thats the good yellow paint) and a lot of the time there isnt a consensus on what the best of a given shade is. I'm using army painter as an example purely because I googled "miniature paint set" and the amazon page for the army painter warpaints starter set was the first hit. GW does one which is extremely similar for about the same money (Red, Blue, Black, White, Yellow, a gun metal, silver, gold and brass metallics, Earthshade wash, astrogranite technical and Tesseract Glow, plus a low quality brush, set of clippers and a mold line scraper). The GW set looks like better value as its more paints plus the cheap tools, but you could argue against it because astrogranite is a basing material and tesseract glow is a niche special effect paint, and the set doesnt contain any browns which to me is mind boggling. But even at that, all of those paints, to me at least, seem like things I'll definitely use. Tesseract Glow isnt something I break out often admittedly, but for magic fire or whatever its an absolute banger. I hate the GW pots but its not a deal breaker. TLDR: If you get a small starter set of 8-12 paints of whatever brand you'll probably not be wasting money. Whatever set you buy you're going to want to augment with more paints and washes to fit the projects you are actually doing. Avoid big sets or targeted niche sets (I wouldnt pick up army painters Zombiecide starter set for example, or that skin tone set I saw while googling around) because those are more likely to have paints you'll rarely want (and can always pick up seperately if you need). I'm kind of curious what colours you got in the paint set you havent opened to be honest. A friend of mine was having a clear out at the same time I was getting more into painting and he gave me about 40 (opened and part used) pots of coat d'arms, and the ones I've literally never used are really some of the blues, greens, oranges and turquoises and thats mainly because there is essentially gently caress all difference between (for example) dark blue, marine blue and wizard blue, so I'm using the wizard blue til the pot is empty. He worked at my FLGS so I think sometimes he used his staff discount to buy a pot of paint because it was easier than finding the dark blue he already had. And having said all that, after it showed up during my searches there I'm finding myself tempted by the army painter speed paint set, but I will resist until I see more reviews of the range. If they've got a contrast effect in purple that actually works and looks good I'm at least buying that one, but I definitely dont need the set. Even if I do love contrast paints and find the idea of having two different shades of various colours both with contrast effects appealing...
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Jan 8, 2022 13:48
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Here is my mega-gagantess for AoS (posting this in right place) https://photos.app.goo.gl/swm8cerXejejswL88 https://photos.app.goo.gl/GaZoYBfmxobYZpEP6 Covermeinsunshine fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 16:06
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Covermeinsunshine posted:So dunno if right thread but here is my mega-gagantess for AoS (posting this in right place) Kicks rear end. Looks amazing. I was worried I was going to see a Gargant with lovingly --albeit crude-- sculpted greenstuff boobs.
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Jan 8, 2022 16:28
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If you're just starting out (or just restarting) i recommend this Vallejo starter paint set https://www.amazon.com/Acylicos-Vallejo-Acrylic-Fantasy-Figures/dp/B000PHCTRK It's got all the core colors you need without a bunch you'll never use, the paints are good and in dropper bottles. If you're on a super budget the colors here can be mixed to make pretty much any shade you want, Add a couple extra flesh tones and some more metalics and you wouldn't really need any other paints at all. If you've you've got the money and really just want every color imaginable then I recommend the ProAcryl sets from Monument Hobbies, the colors are all rich and the paint quality is great. They also come in slightly larger bottles so there's a lot of value. The only issue is the twist caps, but they also sell nice flip top caps for a couple extra bucks.
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Jan 8, 2022 17:38
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Bucnasti posted:If you're just starting out (or just restarting) i recommend this Vallejo starter paint set It's not like it's an awful box or anything, but imo, in that bundle the polished gold is straight up awful. The gunmetal is okay, but you want to upgrade to one of the Vallejo Metal Color line, they're just so much better (probably steel or dark aluminium). The blue is really flat, the orange the same - they have very little vibrancy. Already, if we throw those away, we're into 'you might be better of just picking individual paints' territory. However, the bone white is really good for parchments and all kinds of skintones. I use it as a darker basis for contrast paints sometimes and it's really good. The stonewall grey is great for anything stone as well as grey armor and uniforms, I recent got the air version of stonewall because i prefer the consistency and can use it in the airbrush as well. The dead white is a great, but kinda thick, pure white, good for putting tesseract glow over and other things like that. The black is good but very glossy, make sure that you want a glossy black or get a matt varnish. Most of the rest are still gathering dust in my cabinet because I saw better recipies, or I wanted to follow a tutorial, or I saw examples a friend did or something. I think I used the beasty brown and it was fine, but snakebite leather is just so much better and easier/faster to use, that I never came back to it other than the once. I never used the greens, despite painting a whole bunch of orks recently, because of the goon genius who came up using plaguebearer flesh contrast with a biel-tan wash over it, made it look so good that I just went straight for that. E: Just to be clear, I don't think the box is a bad start, but personally I would have been better of getting individal paints than the box. In the end it's obviously not a big deal or anything. Revelation 2-13 fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 18:56
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As for the pro acryl paints from monument hobbies they have a thing where you get a little discount if you buy I think 8 or more paints at a time. So you can create your own set with colors that you know you want. So far I've been pretty happy with the ones that I've used.
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Jan 8, 2022 19:35
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The only paint sets i ever brought was the GW starter one and I managed to make use of every paint in there which is nice, and the army painter airbrush starter and I've used all but like the brown and the flesh, and thats because I paint big dumb robots It's a pretty good set imo if you're starting out with airbrushes
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Jan 8, 2022 22:53
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Finally got around to finishing this, but not quite feeling like getting out the backdrop for pictures.
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Jan 9, 2022 03:09
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 She's a beauty
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Jan 9, 2022 03:27
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Just cracked out the airbrush finally, since I just bit the bullet and bought the expensive airbrush booth ($150 for an airbrush booth including a too large diameter tube and a fan that is entirely too loud, around 70db (I used an app, my squeaky belt on my clothes dryer is literally quieter), translates into a value of at most $50 to me), and used some Stylrenz primer (been using it as brush on primer now for a while) I had set the airbrush to 30? PSI ages ago based on previous info I read, but which seemed fine for the first model. I had to add a few drops of acrylic medium and mix the pot because it was way too watery, even after jerking it (around) for several minutes prior to adding to the airbrush gravity pot thing. That seemed to be much better, and it was interesting learning the coverage using the orientation of the trigger that is on the top, moving it back and down (or probably easier to just dial it all the way back, and then press down to open up the pressure I guess) However, by the third model I was priming, I started to see this happening, and the airbrush was starting to clog. I see from Miniac's video that speckling here is probably because the PSI isn't high enough, which I'm now guessing because the airbrush was getting clogged. I stopped soon after this to clean everything, and I had to clean the needle itself, the pot, the tips (the spray on the removable tips guarding the end of the needle had dried and congealed, causing a blockage that was hard to get rid of) using airbrush cleaner solution. I had tried the backwash method that Ninjon suggested, but it didn't seem to work as I expected it. Cleaning it was time intensive, which itself doesn't particularly bother me, but so far what bothers me is: 1. I don't understand how it got clogged so quickly, if I have to stop and clean the entire airbrush after 2 models, that isn't faster than rattlecan spraying, though it remains more convenient 2. how can I avoid it getting clogged so quickly in the future? EDIT: after this, I'm considering getting a gun-trigger style airbrush instead, however I was holding this was kind of messing up my middle finger the same way holding a paint brush for too long does. Makes me consider if I have carpel tunnel or something. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 05:28
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You don’t want to be adding medium to thicken your paint in the cup, I’d say that’s the issue with your clog right there. If the primer was noticeably the wrong consistency coming out then you need to fix that before it’s in the airbrush. Generally speaking it’s hard for paints to be too thin out of the bottle, people spray artist inks regularly and there’s no primer thinner than that.
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Jan 9, 2022 06:45
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