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It's not like bad caps are inconceivable with electronics made in 1995, both by age and thanks to the capacitor plague, but it still seems like such a rarity that you'd need to exhaustively prove everything else good first.
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Jan 3, 2022 23:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:My best guess is that some OBD2 computers freak out if they see an ice cold intake air temperature and a warmish engine temperature but really they should just treat it like a warm start anyway.
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Jan 3, 2022 23:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's not like bad caps are inconceivable with electronics made in 1995, both by age and thanks to the capacitor plague, but it still seems like such a rarity that you'd need to exhaustively prove everything else good first. It's a common enough issue that an old roommate decided to unload his 90s SC instead of fixing it. But there's some pretty common issues that pop up when the caps poo poo out. His was a southern car its entire life; heat didn't do it any favors.
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Jan 4, 2022 02:05
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If anybody recalls my saga with the Toyota Matrix over the last couple months, I took it in to have the head gasket replaced. The failure in the gasket was between cylinders 3 and 4, not the outside of the block, so I never would have found it on my own. The shop pulled the head and sent it down the street to a machine shop to check for damage. Nothing major, so the machine shop polished the cylinders, vacuum tested it, and called it good. Original shop puts everything back together, tries to start the car, and it just doesn't. I guess. I'm still not totally sure what happened. So the shop takes everything back apart and finds that the machine shop apparently forgot to put in a couple of the valve shims. The mechanic assures me there was no damage during the attempt to start the car and says there's a 36K mile warranty on all the work if something did go wrong. My wife is getting a loaner for the remainder of the time. And of course everything in this whole process was delayed by at least a week because of Christmas. I guess I appreciate their clarity throughout this process, but now I'm getting nervous about the whole thing and am in too deep with them to back out and find a new shop.
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Jan 4, 2022 04:02
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poo poo happens. If they’re upfront about it and willing to back it, that’s a good shop. Stick with them.
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Jan 4, 2022 04:27
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The auto shop has now reassured me that the machine shop returned the head with 14 of the 16 valve shims in place and the engine did not eat two of them. Says the machine shop said something like "usually we don't get heads with the valvetrain in place." So I'm getting 16 new valve shims when the parts show up Thursday I guess. I guess it's all good, I still like this shop so far.
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Jan 4, 2022 22:22
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Quick question about a neutral safety switch and early '80s tech. Car is a 1984 Pontiac Fiero automatic. 2.5L Iron Duke and a TH125c. The NSS is shared across something like 40 other model years, and mounts directly to the trans, over and around the gear selector shaft. It controls the starting circuit safety switch, as well as incorporating the reverse light switch and the park/neutral signal for the ECU. The old switch is absolutely hatched. The collar that goes around the selector shaft is broken, the switch iself is cracked and rusted as hell. Bought a new one, easy peasy. EXCEPT. The wiper inside the new switch seems to be far enough out of alignment that the switch itself doesn't work when installed and can't be adjusted into working. (I should have expected this having read the reviews on the various parts store pages, but somehow thought I'd be the exception.) Would it be a stupid idea to try a different switch by a different manufacturer? Rockauto, for example, has three of four brands in stock. If it were just the starter circuit I wouldn't mind so much; I could just jump the switch out and be careful. But the addition of the reverse lights and the ECU lead makes me wonder if that would be feasible/worthwhile. It seems to me that a part used on literally hundreds of thousands of cars should be able to bolt right on, you know? Another issue, regardless of what switch is installed, is that the gear selector shaft is rounded off such that even IF the switch could be installed and working correctly, it wouldn't engage the collar QUITE right. For this I was just thinking about slapping some JB Weld on there and then filing/sanding it until it's correct. Would that be terribly insane? From what I can tell from manuals, the only way to replace that shaft is to literally disassemble the transmission, and I don't have the time or space to do that at the moment.
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Jan 5, 2022 00:55
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I feel like this is an especially stupid question but I'm at a loss for where to start. I want to assemble an emergency kit to stick in each of my cars, but I feel confident that I am going to miss something important if I just put a list together for myself. I live in a high elevation area with a lot of snow and cold weather, so I know my needs will be different than someone living in, say, Arizona or Texas. Is there any sort of organization that has put together a well-vetted list of items to get? My experience says that any kind of contingency plan equipment tends to end up with some communal knowledge surrounding it that ends up being useless at best and harmful at worst, so I'd rather not just trust random Internet lists.
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Jan 5, 2022 09:05
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Minnesota dept of public safety: https://dps.mn.gov/divisions/ots/educational-materials/Documents/Winter-Survival-Brochure.pdf
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Jan 5, 2022 13:39
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davecrazy posted:Minnesota dept of public safety: https://dps.mn.gov/divisions/ots/educational-materials/Documents/Winter-Survival-Brochure.pdf Don't really have issues with that list, but I laughed at the canned meat. Just gonna chow down on some cold beef right here. I do Snickers or granola bars, gotta check to see if I actually packed any this year).
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Jan 5, 2022 14:40
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Uthor posted:Don't really have issues with that list, but I laughed at the canned meat. Just gonna chow down on some cold beef right here. I do Snickers or granola bars, gotta check to see if I actually packed any this year). maybe not beef, but tuna/etc could be decent. but if you’re in a situation where you gotta eat your emergency car rations, you probably want carbs way more than meat proteins/fat. Candy and granola bars are good. If you like/can stomach Spaghetti-Os or Chef Boyardee they’re fully cooked and eat fine cold as camp food, and keep for years. Whatever you do pack, you want to make sure that it doesn’t get hosed by seasonal temperature shifts. Candy will melt/spoil if left in a hot car for a summer, and cans can burst or fail if made below-freezing cold or hot-car hot. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Jan 5, 2022 |
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Jan 5, 2022 15:17
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I had a couple Clif bars in my truck emergency pack along with a bunch of dried fruit. When I was doing a refresh a couple years ago, I just pocketed the Clif bars to take hunting. I ate one of them and found that the nuts and other oils had gone rancid, REALLY rancid. It was disgusting and I burped up rancid almond and sunflower seed burps the rest of the day. I also keep an MRE which has almost certainly passed its shelf life. Point being, change your food out every year. To that Minnesota list, I'd add a whole roll of garbage bags, some rags, and either a change of long sleeve clothes or a set of old coveralls in case you have to dig out or get dirty for some reason. I have a Tyvek suit stashed in case I have to chain up or change a tire in lovely conditions. A notable omission from the Minnesota list is toilet paper. Wet wipes are nice, but I just discovered this past week that they freeze into an unusable block overnight. Also, do you travel with dogs? Make sure there's a bag of treats for them in there. You're in Colorado, right 22 Eargesplitten? These are all things I have had to use here at some point as part of winter driving. For a shovel, I've used my avalanche shovel to dig out myself and other people frequently. My hand crank emergency radio/wx radio/flashlight has come in handy a few times as well, and I think most of them can charge a USB outlet in a real pinch. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Jan 5, 2022 |
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Jan 5, 2022 16:54
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I had a couple Clif bars in my truck emergency pack along with a bunch of dried fruit. When I was doing a refresh a couple years ago, I just pocketed the Clif bars to take hunting. I ate one of them and found that the nuts and other oils had gone rancid, REALLY rancid. It was disgusting and I burped up rancid almond and sunflower seed burps the rest of the day. I also keep an MRE which has almost certainly passed its shelf life. Point being, change your food out every year. Semi related to this, I've seen it suggested to buy stuff you don't particularly like if you have a problem with eating your emergency rations as a snack. https://twitter.com/magpiekilljoy/status/1478425263948054530?s=20
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Jan 5, 2022 17:28
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Uthor posted:Semi related to this, I've seen it suggested to buy stuff you don't particularly like if you have a problem with eating your emergency rations as a snack. Yeah, this is a good point. My dried fruit mix was banana chips, pineapple, and papaya and it was gross as hell but it's a massive amount of sugar and calories.
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Jan 5, 2022 17:44
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Youngest daughter just bought a 2001 Subaru Legacy L wagon, 180k miles or so. I was not involved but made sure the radiator, water pump, timing belt were done. New tires, new brakes, and new battery. I don't want to look a gift horse in the mouth but I feel like she found a bit of a unicorn. Anything in particular with that motor I should watch? Everything I've read stressed the timing belt change at 105k as super important. I've never owned a Subaru, we're mostly a Honda and Ford family historically.
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Jan 5, 2022 22:14
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mischief posted:Youngest daughter just bought a 2001 Subaru Legacy L wagon, 180k miles or so. I was not involved but made sure the radiator, water pump, timing belt were done. New tires, new brakes, and new battery. I don't want to look a gift horse in the mouth but I feel like she found a bit of a unicorn. i think that's still in the range that liked to eat headgaskets, got the 2.5l right? they're real solid/reliable cars but that'll eventually go on all of em. decent odds it's already been done by 180k, but if not very good ones you'll have to do it. not that big a job if you're handy
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Jan 5, 2022 22:20
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I'm buying a used car and had a look at a 2007 Honda Fit today. Underside of gas cap has a bit of milkshake-looking mud: Cause for concern? Oil dip stick looked fine otherwise. Exhaust smoke looked normal. melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jan 5, 2022 |
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Jan 5, 2022 23:24
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melon cat posted:I'm buying a used car and had a look at a 2007 Honda Fit today. Underside of gas cap has a bit of milkshake-looking mud: I don't know much about cars but I would immediately back out, unless you are comfortable performing engine repairs yourself. There are so many Fits for sale why bother with one that looks like that under the oil cap?
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Jan 5, 2022 23:36
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2007 Chevy Avalanche 250kkm I was driving the truck as usual and had to brake a bit harder than I usually do. When I did that my brake pedal bottomed out (still took a bit of pressure to press) and a scraping, grinding noise occurred until I let go of the brake. It did not feel like a great loss of braking power but the expected increase in brake power as the pedal was depressed was not there. This was on a somewhat slick and snowy street. The truck has no problems stopping when I brake more gently and does not make any noise. It was recently checked out by a shop and I was told the brakes were OK, but the rotors a bit rusty and I should consider replacing them in the near future. Some googling tells me this may be the ABS acting as it should but I've never owned a vehicle with ABS so I have no frame of reference of what it should or should not feel like. Should I be concerned about my brakes?
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Jan 6, 2022 00:27
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melon cat posted:I'm buying a used car and had a look at a 2007 Honda Fit today. Underside of gas cap has a bit of milkshake-looking mud: Dunno about that make and model. My VW would get that every winter, I read it was because of the EVAP system. Or it could be a head gasket. therunningman posted:2007 Chevy Avalanche 250kkm Sounds like ABS. Go out in the snow and jam on the pedal. You should feel it pulsing under your feet when it engages. It grabs and releases as the wheels slip, so you will not feel it grab harder until traction returns. Though in snow, I sometimes find it better to let up and apply brakes gently than to use the ABS.
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Jan 6, 2022 00:49
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ABS can make a horrible grinding sound and give you a corresponding stuttering of the brake pedal that makes it feel like the grinding is somehow inside the pedal. It’s a scary sensation if you don’t realize it’s normal. Go slam on the brakes in some snow and get a feel for it.
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Jan 6, 2022 05:34
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Yeah sounds like the ABS system working its magic. That sensation, sound and so on is probably why ABS is underutilized by people unfamiliar with it? Probably also partly why doing a max braking power stop is part of many countries drivers education.
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Jan 6, 2022 07:11
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Thanks everyone, going to take it out again and get another feel for it in the snow.
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Jan 6, 2022 15:09
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Do it carefully and make sure you have all 4 wheels braking. I had an ABS stop push some air into my lines once so I got only 2 brakes. It was pretty obvious though as those would lock up very easily.
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Jan 6, 2022 18:58
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2011 Honda Accord here! Hi! I just parked my car and like as soon as I turned into the driveway it started making a horrendous humming noise. I haven't been able to find anything online that sounded quite like it. It's like a shrill airhorn. I have a recording of the sound below - it is slightly stronger on the passenger side - and is definitely inside the cabin. Checking the engine, the noise isn't more audible when I open the hood. This noise is also happening whether the engine is on or off. It's just very loud. I have no idea what this could be as I'm not a car guy and my research is turning up nothing. Do I need to go to a doctor? A priest? Recording: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y85T2NjWkPk Cartridgeblowers fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jan 6, 2022 |
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Jan 6, 2022 22:49
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Cartridgeblowers posted:2011 Honda Accord here! Sounds like it's coming from your stereo system, no? Put your ear to a speaker and see if it's louder? It could be a transient software glitch, or a legitimate electrical gremlin like a shorted wire somewhere. Turn off the car and turn it on again. Is it gone? My 2013 car has an undiagnosed gremlin. About twice a year the audio system will cut out completely and only play crackles for FM or Bluetooth. If I shut off the car for 30 mins and turn it on again the issue is gone.
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Jan 6, 2022 23:00
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Turned my radio off and it is still making the noise. Hasn't stopped in about an hour now. If it's coming from a speaker it's not all of them, as the driver's side speaker is not the source. It's making the noise even with the car completely turned off. edit: Huh. Seems to have stopped. Guess I'm seeing a mechanic soon, tho! Holy moley. Cartridgeblowers fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jan 6, 2022 |
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Jan 6, 2022 23:40
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Cartridgeblowers posted:Turned my radio off and it is still making the noise. Hasn't stopped in about an hour now. If it's coming from a speaker it's not all of them, as the driver's side speaker is not the source. It's making the noise even with the car completely turned off. Disconnect your battery. Leave it that way for 30 minutes or more. Reconnect it. If it's still making that noise disconnect it again because who the hell knows what this is from your video, but it's potentially not safe to leave it powered. It really does sounds like a stuck alert tone/chime. Disconnecting the battery for a while may reset the ECU/BCM/whatever module has gone bonkers.
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Jan 6, 2022 23:52
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mr.belowaverage posted:
So the dealer separated me from 400 of my dollars to tell me that it was flooded and needed an oil change and plugs. I questioned this as from what I could tell, I wasn’t getting fuel, and I had just done plugs and an oil change a month or so ago. They went to look into it further and get back to me. A couple hours later they tell me it has low compression and that’s why it won’t start. They said cylinders were around 150-160-180 and spec is 215psi. I’m very skeptical because it ran fine one day, had plenty of power and pull, starts without issue and the next morning didn’t even try to start. I could get it to run briefly when my buddy sprayed carb cleaner into the intake while I cranked it. Is my mechanical understanding just poo poo and my engine lost workable compression from one day to the next?
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Jan 7, 2022 05:59
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Cartridgeblowers posted:2011 Honda Accord here! Somebody can put it in audacity to check but that sounds like a sine wave
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Jan 7, 2022 06:25
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Charles posted:Somebody can put it in audacity to check but that sounds like a sine wave It's real close, right around 500-600 Hz. Motronic sounds on the right track regarding a bugged alert tone. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DerTK1BEgd4 (500hz)
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Jan 7, 2022 07:04
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mr.belowaverage posted:So the dealer separated me from 400 of my dollars to tell me that it was flooded and needed an oil change and plugs. No. They're the problem, not you. My only experience is with my neighbor's '04 Silverado with the 5.9L V8. His will just suddenly go into limp. Let it sit for 20-minutes & re-start & it'll run great, possibly for months. In his case, it's either the CPS or wiring for the injectors but it's not his DD and doesn't happen often so he hasn't dug into it. After 2003, GM's ECU has to re-learn after the CPS is replaced. If you haven't already, tell them that you replaced the crank position sensor. The ECU may have to be connected to GM's machine that goes ping! to re-map, and it may run like poo poo until then. Re: compression: More important than readings ---> spec, is what the readings are in relation to each other. If they're all within 20-30-lbs of one another, that's fine. Based on the two things they'be told you so far: they're clueless. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Jan 7, 2022 |
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Jan 7, 2022 16:11
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O2 sensor hosed again on my subaru. I know exactly what went wrong and why. The thing confusing me is that this time the engine isn't in limp mode. Last time, throttle response was jerky, burnt way more fuel, etc. This time, just CEL on and drives exactly the same (apart from no cruise control). Not something I'm worried about, just curious. Any ideas for the difference?
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Jan 7, 2022 20:53
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simplefish posted:O2 sensor hosed again on my subaru. Maybe this time it's the o2 sensor after the cat, if you have two.
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Jan 7, 2022 21:02
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So I'm sitting looking at random ads and usually when it comes to older American cars (70's and older) they are pretty drat expensive (Sweden) and especially is they are V8s. Then I come across stuff like the Dodge Dart with a 318 in drivable condition and has passed inspection etc... and it's much cheaper than most? I mean it's no Mustang or typical classic, but is there anything really "wrong" with the Dart apart from maybe not being the coolest or prettiest design and not being "iconic" (afaik)? I mean it's still an American V8 so should be fun? Trying to decipher the market is pretty random sometimes. Other cars have just soared in price over the last couple of years and it's pretty insane what people are asking for some cars here.
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Jan 8, 2022 00:31
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Issue: Our horse trailer tires are supposed to be 80psi. We haven't used it in a few months so I brought my 5gal air tank out to the barn to top off the tires. All 4 were at 70psi but my 5gal tank at 120psi only had enough air to top up two of them. So I busted out my Viair 12v compressor to top off the other two. Because of the distance from the truck's battery to the furthest trailer tire, I have about 25ft of air hose that I cobbled together from a couple different small compressors to cover the distance. The entire length is the small air hose that comes with these things, the ones that screw together and onto the valve stem. After running for a few minutes the tire was still at 70psi, so I gave up on that and took off the air hose extensions and used the Viair to top off my 5gal air tank (it got the tank up to 100psi easily enough) and just used that to top off the tires. It worked, but I really need to figure out a better/easier way to do this for when my wife and her friends are off on their own. Would the long length of small diameter air hose be the weak point in getting the pressure I need? Is there something obvious here that I'm missing? I don't mind getting creative with figuring out a semi-permanent mounting solution so there's always air available (like buying another air tank to keep in the trailer and having the Viair connected to it so it can keep the tank topped off) but I feel like there's a much simpler solution that I'm just not seeing.
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Jan 8, 2022 00:38
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Get longer wires
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Jan 8, 2022 00:47
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Yah get longer wires. Considering it's a trailer here are two new suggestions. 1. Park the truck closer to the tires. 2. Use the aux power from the trailer connection. Either if there's a power point on the trailer or buy a seven pin connector and wire it to a little connector for the air. That's a lot closer to the trailer tires.
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Jan 8, 2022 01:39
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PainterofCrap posted:No. They're the problem, not you. Great. This was my suspicion, but what do I do? I inquired further today and they assured me they verified fuel/injector pulse, and verified timing. They said the motor is scrap. Edit: to say I looked into the crank angle relearn procedure before, and it is definitely recommended if you replace the CKP sensor, but the directions even with GM Tech II say it has to be running, so that’s a non-starter, no pun intended mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 01:45
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mr.belowaverage posted:Great. This was my suspicion, but what do I do? You get to towed elsewhere because the experience of the place you are dealing with tops out at "oil changes".
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Jan 8, 2022 01:53
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