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Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

DerekSmartymans posted:

I’m still not sure on if you actually did buy the 2x16, and everything else was the same, you couldn’t put the 2x16 in with the pre-existing 2x8 for a total of 48. Would (again, everything else being exactly the same) this be detrimental due to some reason I don’t understand under the hood? I know that if some was faster all four would run at the slower “top-speed,” but I also can’t figure out why this would “hurt.”

I only ask because my 970 rig was built with 4, and my BiL passed me 16 that exactly matched (even to brand, clocks, timings, etc) am I hurting my old machine’s performance in some way by having 20GB of RAM? I don’t OC anything beyond XMP in the BIOS, if that changes any answers. It does sound funny having 20 but then again, my 10y/o laptop has 6 GB DDR3, one 2GB + one 4GB but it came from the factory that way.

You can absolutely do that, and they don't even need to be perfect matches. Mixing up memory sticks is largely a non-issue these days, though you will still run into compatibility issues every now and again. And if there are any differences in your modules' speed or timings, it will take the slowest values and use those for all sticks. That means that if your old memory is measurably slower than the new memory you got, then you're better off ditching the old stuff. Going from 32GB to 48GB is unlikely to have a positive impact unless you're doing some really memory-intensive stuff, but having to use slower memory speed or timings will adversely effect performance.

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BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Memory controllers are very smart about dual channel too, so if you're have mismatched stick sizes you won't lose dual channel on the whole amount, just the extra. So if you've got a 16GB+8GB setup, you'll have 16GB of dual channel memory that the system will prioritise, and 8gb of single channel memory. You see this in shipping systems from Asus and the like where they only have a single socketable dimm slot, so if you put in 32GB they go to 48GB of mixed access memory (2/3 in dual channel).

The main thing that will cause a performance loss is motherboard topology, you might have to cut back on frequency going to 4 sticks on a daisy chain motherboard. On DDR5 the rated speed drops to 4000MHz with two DPC and 3600MHz with two high density sticks per channel.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

DDR4 boards are generally okay with four sticks though, unless you're trying to do some heavy overclocking. It'd have to be a pretty lovely board to not at least support 4x ddr4-3600.

BurritoJustice
Oct 9, 2012

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

DDR4 boards are generally okay with four sticks though, unless you're trying to do some heavy overclocking. It'd have to be a pretty lovely board to not at least support 4x ddr4-3600.

Yeah, I'd just check the QVL and see where the memory speeds top out for 4 sticks. 3600 seems the limit for 4-dimm on a lot of Z690/X570 and you need to do a bit more fiddling.

DerekSmartymans
Feb 14, 2005

The
Copacetic
Ascetic

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

DDR4 boards are generally okay with four sticks though, unless you're trying to do some heavy overclocking. It'd have to be a pretty lovely board to not at least support 4x ddr4-3600.

Alright, I had wondered. I have 4x16 3200/16, simply as hand me downs from a family member (same BiL who gave me the “extra” 16 in 2016 RAM), but I just basically didn’t know if I would have been ok even with just 2 16s added to my 2 pre-existing 8s. I was (am) aware of how faster RAM will go at the slowest DIMM’s speed, but I never thought twice about my old rig’s 20GB total.

The 64-coming-from-16 is nice for browser tab hoarding, though 🤪

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

CaptainSarcastic posted:

I said it was a personal bias. And I didn't mean to start a derail onto a 2 stick versus 4 stick argument - I forget that can be like a "beans in chili" level thing.

Lol.

"I didn't mean to rile up a bunch of nerds on a hotly debated topic with tons of misinformation available online."

It is also not a beans in chili thing. As seen in the discussion above, there is plenty of well researched, benchmark backed data. This isn't something that can be subjective.

CaptainSarcastic
Jul 6, 2013



Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Lol.

"I didn't mean to rile up a bunch of nerds on a hotly debated topic with tons of misinformation available online."

It is also not a beans in chili thing. As seen in the discussion above, there is plenty of well researched, benchmark backed data. This isn't something that can be subjective.

So, you are in the anti-bean camp?

Look, I said I didn't mean to start a derail onto what often turns into a weirdly contentious debate, and I'm not to going to argue the point beyond this. There is "well researched, benchmark backed data" to support either side, and it absolutely gets into subjective territory. You talked about overclocking memory being a problem with more sticks, which is only a problem if you consider memory overclocking beyond basic XMP levels to be important. I don't care much about overclocking memory beyond XMP myself, so that's not an issue for me.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

As of now most of the B660 boards look like bottom tier garbage (manufacturers basically racing to the bottom of the price curve). You lose a lot of functionality from some of those B660 boards (horrible VRM heatsinks, less PCI slots, etc etc).

If your goal is productivity and your specific workload will get gains on a 12700k it may be worth it, but if you’ve been running a 3470 you’ll obviously be fine with whatever you pick. Anything will be a huge upgrade. Think of spending the extra cash as maybe pushing your next upgrade off an extra year.

Also OC gains generally get a little better with time as BIOS and methods get refined.
I've no idea about those Asus boards I posted really, but the MSI B660M Mortar seems to be ok at least in terms of VRM (https://www.techspot.com/review/2391-intel-core-i7-12700/) but of course it also costs as much an entry-level Z board. Otherwise I don't particularly care about wifi, RGB or other crap.

One possible issue I noticed is with the PL1/PL2. Apparently the 65W PL2 is supposed to be enforced on the non-K CPUs. But is it possible to change it on all boards? It's not super clear if it's configurable or if you're stuck with whatever your board decides to do.



Because being stuck at 65w would be an issue :)


powderific posted:

You also might wanna see if you can find benchmarks for your specific applications. I'd been leaning 12700 for work stuff, but found some benchmarks in the apps I use (Resolve and Premiere), and the difference was pretty negligible in the use cases where I'd care and wound up going for the 12600.

Well poo poo! Resolve is actually one of my uses. Just doing some videos from vacations and trips and what not, but still. Most reviews don't seem to benchmark Resolve (or I would've noticed it) but I found something by Puget Systems (?) and put it into a table. The 12700 seems to be either the same 20% faster.



I wonder what the bottleneck is. I guess a lot of these aren't multithreaded? Otherwise the 12600k has slightly higher base clocks and slightly lower boost and less cache.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
Yeah that’s what I looked at and for my main uses it’s the no difference rows. My guess is that those are limited by the gpu instead or like you say hit diminishing returns for multi threading.

Barry Foster
Dec 24, 2007

What is going wrong with that one (face is longer than it should be)

Barry Foster posted:

I've decided to switch up my PC storage/get rid of one of my old hard drives. Currently it goes like this:

C: Crucial CT275MX300 (old 275 GB 2.5" SSD, OS)
D: Seagate Barracuda HDD (4 TB 3.5" HDD, media storage)
E: Seagate HDD (1 TB 3.5" HDD, many years old, used to be OS, now general backup)
F: WD Blue SN550 NVMe (1 TB, currently used for games)

I'm planning on

1) moving the games to a new 1 TB SSD (which is currently the goon recommended one? Is it the Crucial MX500?)
2) move the OS from the old MX300 to the WD Blue NVMe
3) move the backup information to the old MX300 and retire the old HDD, meaning I'll only have the newer, bigger HDD still spinnin' rust in my rig

Does this seem like a decent enough plan? Are there any other new 1 TB SSDs I should consider? I should've struck when the iron was hot awhile ago and the MX500 was going for £60 or so, but I was unemployed then. It's currently available for £75 though.

Aight, so I've got hold of the new drive, next step is to move everything from my m2 onto the new one, and then clone the current OS drive onto the m2.

What's the best software for doing this? I swear this has been talked about ITT recently, but I've tried various search terms and can't find anything.

TIA!

mom and dad fight a lot
Sep 21, 2006
Probation
Can't post for 30 days!

CaptainSarcastic posted:

So, you are in the anti-bean camp?

Look, I said I didn't mean to start a derail onto what often turns into a weirdly contentious debate, and I'm not to going to argue the point beyond this. There is "well researched, benchmark backed data" to support either side, and it absolutely gets into subjective territory. You talked about overclocking memory being a problem with more sticks, which is only a problem if you consider memory overclocking beyond basic XMP levels to be important. I don't care much about overclocking memory beyond XMP myself, so that's not an issue for me.

Obviously the solution is to get a motherboard with only two DIMM slots. :v:

Begall
Jul 28, 2008

Barry Foster posted:

Aight, so I've got hold of the new drive, next step is to move everything from my m2 onto the new one, and then clone the current OS drive onto the m2.

What's the best software for doing this? I swear this has been talked about ITT recently, but I've tried various search terms and can't find anything.

TIA!

Personally I use CloneZilla, which has never let me down - but that was the first solution I tried and stuck with, so there may be better options out there.

DerekSmartymans
Feb 14, 2005

The
Copacetic
Ascetic

Begall posted:

Personally I use CloneZilla, which has never let me down - but that was the first solution I tried and stuck with, so there may be better options out there.

Macrium Reflect is a decent, free Windows program, and I have Puran Utilities on my laptop. Its data recovery/file recovery works pretty well, too.

Barry Foster
Dec 24, 2007

What is going wrong with that one (face is longer than it should be)

Begall posted:

Personally I use CloneZilla, which has never let me down - but that was the first solution I tried and stuck with, so there may be better options out there.

DerekSmartymans posted:

Macrium Reflect is a decent, free Windows program, and I have Puran Utilities on my laptop. Its data recovery/file recovery works pretty well, too.

Thank you both!

I watched a tutorial on clonezilla and just did a dry-run, got as far as choosing source and target and it was all very simple. So tomorrow I'll hook up the new drive, clone the m2 to it, check that worked ok, and then clone the old SSD to the m2 and set to boot from the m2.

If I then boot up windows from the m2 (to check if all is ok), should I disconnect the old OS SSD beforehand? The final step will be to clone my backup HDD to that SSD, but obviously I don't want to do that until I'm sure that it took, and I don't know if windows will freak when it sees two exact copies of itself.

Relatedly, does clonezilla automatically format the drive when it clones, or will I need to do that from within windows?

Thanks for your help so far!

Begall
Jul 28, 2008
If you’re using CloneZilla then it will do all the formatting and (assuming it’s a boot drive you’ve cloned) also sort out the boot setup so that it automatically boots to the newly cloned drive, even if the old one is still connected.

err
Apr 11, 2005

I carry my own weight no matter how heavy this shit gets...
Still holding out for a decently priced 3080/12 chip prebuilt if anyone sees one.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
it's rough bud, keep your eyes open, the only stuff I know is uk. are you on the GPU stock discords? if you are spending all this time and effort searching it might be worthwhile. it's really just the GPU that is limiting you if you could get that part the rest is a cakewalk.

err
Apr 11, 2005

I carry my own weight no matter how heavy this shit gets...

CoolCab posted:

it's rough bud, keep your eyes open, the only stuff I know is uk. are you on the GPU stock discords? if you are spending all this time and effort searching it might be worthwhile. it's really just the GPU that is limiting you if you could get that part the rest is a cakewalk.

Yeah I've been checking when I can. I do the Newegg shuffle but a lot of it is just combos with unneeded junk.

I'll check the GPU thread and see if there's any new Discords I am missing.

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...

err posted:

Still holding out for a decently priced 3080/12 chip prebuilt if anyone sees one.

Where are you

tehinternet
Feb 14, 2005

Semantically, "you" is both singular and plural, though syntactically it is always plural. It always takes a verb form that originally marked the word as plural.

Also, there is no plural when the context is an argument with an individual rather than a group. Somfin shouldn't put words in my mouth.
Two questions:

I’ve gotten a MSI Armor GTX 1080 Ti — I know the stock cooler on this is laughably bad. Does it make more sense to use a third party air cooler or should I just get an AIO if I’m putting that kind of effort in? The CPU is a Ryzen 3600x, case is an NZXT 510 IIRC. Not the worst one, the one with ventilation on the side.

Second, my son’s computer is at another house most of the time and they have very hairy cats. I’ve just torn down his computer and removed an amazing amount of pet hair (the stock cooler was literally clogged with hair in an 18 month period). Is there a recommended case setup / case recommendation to deal with pets in a somewhat untidy house that isn’t vacuumed as often as it should be?

Problem Sleuth
Apr 12, 2011

WELCOME TO THE NEW FUTURE

Thanks to all of you for the quick and helpful replies! Rest assured I am not going to pay 100 bucks for windows 10 though, haha, I'll make sure to get it from a key seller.

I've updated the parts list with what you guys suggested, switching to a 12600k and the better psu, memory, and storage. I'm unsure about the motherboard and cpu cooler, but they seem decently priced and well-reviewed so I think I'm gonna pull the trigger unless someone says something. Thanks again for the help!

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($295.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler ($64.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z690-P WIFI D4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($239.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($80.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB GAMING Z TRIO Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Gigabyte M27Q 27.0" 2560x1440 170 Hz Monitor ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1200.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-01-08 21:01 EST-0500

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
I don't recognize either of the specific products but they're probably fine, brands are good. much more sensible cpu choice yeah for sure that rig is gonna shred bud, gaming beast.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
is that a reasonable price for a 12th gen mobo? I know a bunch of lower end units have recently either been announced or shipped that might not be broadly reviewed yet...

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Are there any good 600+ watt SFX PSUs under $100? I think if I get a big enough tax rebate this year that's what I'll spend it on; I previously complained about my 3070's high temps but getting a smaller power supply would ameliorate that somewhat as it would let the GPU suck in more air.

change my name fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jan 9, 2022

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...

change my name posted:

Are there any good 600+ watt SFX PSUs under $100? I think if I get a big enough tax rebate this year that's what I'll spend it on; I previously complained about my 3070's high temps but getting a smaller power supply would ameliorate that somewhat as it would let the GPU suck in more air.

https://www.gamestop.com/consoles-h...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Newegg price might be better?

Check this out on @Newegg: Super Flower Leadex III 550W 80+ Gold, 10 Years Warranty, Three-Way ECO Mode Fanless, Silent & Cooling Mode, FDB Fan, Full Modular Power Supply, Dual Over Power Protection, SF-550F14HG
https://www.newegg.com/super-flower...9&source=region

Alan Smithee fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Jan 9, 2022

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.


That's actually perfect, thanks!

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...
Newegg link might be better price just edited

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Alan Smithee posted:

https://www.gamestop.com/consoles-h...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Newegg price might be better?

Check this out on @Newegg: Super Flower Leadex III 550W 80+ Gold, 10 Years Warranty, Three-Way ECO Mode Fanless, Silent & Cooling Mode, FDB Fan, Full Modular Power Supply, Dual Over Power Protection, SF-550F14HG
https://www.newegg.com/super-flower...9&source=region

These are full ATX power supplies. OP is asking for SFX, which are smaller PSUs designed for small form factor cases.

There are no 600+ watt SFX PSUs for less than $100 that I'm aware of right now. Honestly, instead of trying to buy a smaller PSU, I would consider doing a full case swap to a case that has better airflow for your PSU. There are good options available for less than $100 (Phanteks P400A, Meshify C, Corsair 4000D Airflow). Or alternatively, add more/better fans if that's possible with your current case.

Canna Happy
Jul 11, 2004
The engine, code A855, has a cast iron closed deck block and split crankcase. It uses an 8.1:1 compression ratio with Mahle cast eutectic aluminum alloy pistons, forged connecting rods with cracked caps and threaded-in 9 mm rod bolts, and a cast high

change my name posted:

That's actually perfect, thanks!

Neither of those are sfx. Just buy a sf600.

err
Apr 11, 2005

I carry my own weight no matter how heavy this shit gets...

Alan Smithee posted:

Where are you

Washington State, no Microcenters around me unfortunately. I would wait if at one if I could.

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Canna Happy posted:

Neither of those are sfx. Just buy a sf600.

You are correct, I just checked and my current PSU is actually the same size. I guess I'll keep an eye out for deals, I did manage to get the Seasonic FOCUS SGX-500 for $38 on Black Friday as previously mentioned but that was for a friend

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

CoolCab posted:

is that a reasonable price for a 12th gen mobo? I know a bunch of lower end units have recently either been announced or shipped that might not be broadly reviewed yet...

Yeah I think that's on the cheaper end for Z690 boards. The new ones are B660 and don't support CPU overclockerng. They're like $180 maybe, Tom has a review of an MSI one: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/msi-mag-b660m-mortar-wifi-ddr4

Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

tehinternet posted:

Second, my son’s computer is at another house most of the time and they have very hairy cats. I’ve just torn down his computer and removed an amazing amount of pet hair (the stock cooler was literally clogged with hair in an 18 month period). Is there a recommended case setup / case recommendation to deal with pets in a somewhat untidy house that isn’t vacuumed as often as it should be?

The keywords are filters and positive air pressure. You must have more intake fans than exhaust, either in count or power. This will cause a higher pressure inside the case and excess air will leak out through any caps in the case, instead of leaking in and bringing dust with it. And all intake fans must have a good filter in front of them, preferably a filter that is easy to clean. i don't have specific case recommendation, but there are many that can fill this need. Usual setup is a case with two or three 14 or 12cm fans in the front panel with a front sized filter. PSU will have one exhaust fan and usually one fan at the back and potentially more fans at the top, but the intake fans are more important.

Fractal Design cases are a usual recommendation, the Meshify series probably the most common. Modern cases don't often have a place for DVD drive, so if that is needed it will limit selection. 2.5" SSD drives usually go on the other side of the motherboard panel. 3.5" harddrives will also limit selection, but many cases will have a sideways spot for them behind the front fans.

1550NM
Aug 31, 2004
Frossen fisk
I'm currently tire kicking an upgrade to Alder Lake.

I'm currently doing 1440p gaming. Otherwise video editing, CAD work and ordinary daily use.
I'm primarily looking to upgrade due to age, the not ideal 2017 upgrade came from a detonating motherboard and PSU. Those were 5 years at the time.

Current build is a follows, CPU, MOBO, PSU was new in january 2017. Prices are kinda iffy as I'm in Norway.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor 2017 ($440.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler 2017 ($44.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus STRIX Z270F ATX LGA1151 Motherboard 2017
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory ($68.98 @ Amazon) 2017
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory ($68.98 @ Amazon) 2018
Storage: Crucial BX500 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Adorama) 2018
Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Amazon) 2019
Storage: Western Digital WD_BLACK SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Western Digital) 2021
Storage: Corsair MP600 Force Series Gen4 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($167.22 @ Amazon) 2021
Storage: Western Digital Red 1 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Western Digital) 2018
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB DUAL EVO OC Video Card December 2019
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.98 @ Amazon) 2018
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($203.99 @ Amazon) 2017
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($139.88 @ Other World Computing)
Monitor: AOC CQ32G1 31.5" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor 2020
Monitor: AOC CQ32G1 31.5" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor 2020
Total: $1528.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-01-09 10:27 EST-0500

Upgrading, CPU,mobo,ram and psu along these lines, stating with DDR4 and a midrange Mobo until sanity restores for DDR5:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor ($399.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MasterAir MA624 Stealth 67 CFM CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z690-A GAMING WIFI D4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($373.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($224.70 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ Newegg)

Total: $1885.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-01-09 10:51 EST-0500

Clearances willing for the aircooler, or a change to a Noctua D15 if they become available.

Vashro
May 12, 2004

Proud owner of Lazy Lion #46
recommendations for checking my CPU temp when it gets going and what is acceptable?

DerekSmartymans
Feb 14, 2005

The
Copacetic
Ascetic

Vashro posted:

recommendations for checking my CPU temp when it gets going and what is acceptable?

My first line of defense is either Speccy or AIDA64. Neither hogs resources, and I can open a new “screen” on my iPad downstairs to monitor temps/network from the desktop components upstairs if I need to run something or downloading a giant file. I have a friend with a 7” portable monitor running only AIDA64 via USB C because he does a lot of CPU/GPU intensive stuff I don’t understand.

Think he bought the 7” monitor off Amazon? Look up Raspberry Pi monitors or equivalents.

Vashro
May 12, 2004

Proud owner of Lazy Lion #46
yeah more basic than that like which one of these software is legit and what should I run to make CPU go hard
nvm, ill try specy

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Vashro posted:

yeah more basic than that like which one of these software is legit and what should I run to make CPU go hard

MSI Afterburner will put that info right on screen but if you have a second monitor you can just plonk windows task manager there for similar results

Vashro
May 12, 2004

Proud owner of Lazy Lion #46

change my name posted:

MSI Afterburner will put that info right on screen but if you have a second monitor you can just plonk windows task manager there for similar results

oh it shows there nice thank you

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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

HWInfo64 is generally the default, but it throws a shitload of info at you.

The best stress test is to have it running on a second monitor (or outputting to a file) while you do your normal poo poo (game for an hour or whatever).

Stress tests are helpful for validating OCs or whatever, but aren’t practical scenarios so if you overheat during a stress test or bench mark you may not during normal workload.

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