|
kimbo305 posted:Your pedaling form shouldn't differ that much. If you hadn't mentioned hitting 140 on Zwift, I'd think you were managing with lower cadence. Tobin is saying he thinks your seat is so low that your knees are coming up above your hips. Don't think OP mentioned 140 at all, that was my best-estimate of what 'steep downhill speeds' would look like if you were spinning out a gear outdoors
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2022 20:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 22:13 |
|
|
It was my first time driving in central Tokyo (which I wholeheartedly recommend against unless you have to) to get to the Trek dealer yesterday, but I was finally able to go pick up my new bike yesterday. My delicate BMC timemachine now has a burlier younger brother. Any general fit advice for a gravel bike as compared to an aero race bike? I'm guessing I want my saddle height over the BB to be roughly the same (taking the crank length into account) as my BMC, but the stack/reach at the handlebars is gonna make the real difference in how the new bike feels. P.S. The automatic parking garages in Tokyo are slick as hell.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 04:11
|
|
|
great color on that bike
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 04:44
|
|
|
Lyndon LaRouche posted:It was my first time driving in central Tokyo (which I wholeheartedly recommend against unless you have to) to get to the Trek dealer yesterday, but I was finally able to go pick up my new bike yesterday. My delicate BMC timemachine now has a burlier younger brother. Any general fit advice for a gravel bike as compared to an aero race bike? I'm guessing I want my saddle height over the BB to be roughly the same (taking the crank length into account) as my BMC, but the stack/reach at the handlebars is gonna make the real difference in how the new bike feels. Saddle height basically the same, but you should also account for increased stack height from shoes and pedals. It might not be much...it might be as much as 1cm.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 05:15
|
|
|
Lyndon LaRouche posted:It was my first time driving in central Tokyo (which I wholeheartedly recommend against unless you have to) to get to the Trek dealer yesterday, but I was finally able to go pick up my new bike yesterday. My delicate BMC timemachine now has a burlier younger brother. Any general fit advice for a gravel bike as compared to an aero race bike? I'm guessing I want my saddle height over the BB to be roughly the same (taking the crank length into account) as my BMC, but the stack/reach at the handlebars is gonna make the real difference in how the new bike feels. You can set up most gravel bikes as you wish, exactly like a road bike if you prefer it, depending on the head tube height. But by default, for riding on gravel or worse, many people like wider, maybe flaired bars, higher and closer to them. It’s environmental really: If you’re riding a gravel bike on the road, why would you want a different fit to your road bike? If you’re riding on well manicured firetrails that you can effectively treat as a road if you have the right tyres, you don’t really need a different fit. If you’re underbiking and trying to ride single trackthen you really need a more upright position, wider bars etc.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 14:42
|
|
|
wooger posted:You can set up most gravel bikes as you wish, exactly like a road bike if you prefer it, depending on the head tube height. It's mostly gonna see road use (on mostly immaculate Japanese tarmac) , along with whatever decent gravel may come along. It's really gonna be more of a bikepacker.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 17:07
|
|
|
Riding bikes is fun. Riding bikes in the rain is a ton of fun. Cleaning your bike after riding in the rain is not fun.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 21:26
|
|
|
Sab0921 posted:Cleaning your bike is not fun.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 21:45
|
|
|
Sab0921 posted:Riding bikes is fun. Riding bikes in the rain is a ton of fun. Cleaning your bike after riding in the rain is not fun. Having a garden and hose pipe makes it so much easier, looking forward to going back to that at some point. At least I'm not cleaning my bikes in the shower anymore 
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 21:52
|
|
|
Heliosicle posted:Having a garden and hose pipe makes it so much easier, looking forward to going back to that at some point. Yeah - cleaning the bike in the shower seems aggressive - but I guess if you're in a very urban area, you don't have another choice. I tend not to use a hose because of the ever present debate of whether a hose will ruin your bearings - I stay on the cautious side.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 03:49
|
|
|
Sab0921 posted:I tend not to use a hose because of the ever present debate of whether a hose will ruin your bearings - I stay on the cautious side. There’s no debate. It won’t. All the scare stories relate to pressure washers, and even those are fine to use unless you point them at your bearings.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 09:50
|
|
|
My solution is to never clean my bike. I floss grit/grime out of the tight spaces with moving parts. I only wash my bike before races for the glamor shots.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 10:03
|
|
|
With a waxed chain there's much less pressure to wash your bike for maintenance reasons, which is a big upside
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 13:20
|
|
|
anyone have a recommendation for an ultrasonic cleaner? i already had the harbor freight one but it was not great and eventually fell apart :| there's a bunch of "3L" and "6L" ones on ebay or amazon, mostly all the same design with 10 different brand names
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 17:27
|
|
|
I bought the $50 2L one from amzn. It mainly gets used for chain pre-wax but I can also get half a (42t+) cassette in there.
sweat poteto fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jan 10, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 17:29
|
|
|
I’ve got a TruSonik 2.5L and I can fit almost any cassette in there except the 42t, which I rotate a bit while it’s cleaning. Just a bit rectangular looking thing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 17:49
|
|
|
Tried Zwift again today and at first it was doing something awful again in which it was just going even when I wasn't but then after rebooting my phone and repairing the app to my sensors (and also selecting a different training, I don't have a "supported" one) I noticed this time the rpm sensor was working and my bikeman was actually starting and stopping and maintaining a pace comparable to my actual peddling! Success! Seems like the cadence sensor wasn't properly transmitting before. I also adjust it to be a couple inches further away from the foot pedal itself. My rpm is about 60 on average. I adjusted the seat a bit higher but doing so gradually made my right elbow ache a little more; tomorrow I'll try adjusting the handle bars higher, in the meantime I'll start working on making a fitting appointment. I'm not sure when my dad will be coming into town this week to bring me a table top for my standing desk so my intention would be to have the appointment align for when I have a ride to bring my bike into town.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 20:24
|
|
|
What do y'all wear when riding in the 30-40 F (-1-5 C) range?
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 21:52
|
|
|
Sab0921 posted:What do y'all wear when riding in the 30-40 F (-1-5 C) range? Thick gloves, thick base layer, jersey, wind proof layer, thermal bib tights, overshoes. Depending on how long the ride is, would recommend having a couple of those hand warmers in the saddle bag in case anything gets too cold. Plus a snood. MrL_JaKiri fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Jan 10, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 21:55
|
|
|
Sab0921 posted:What do y'all wear when riding in the 30-40 F (-1-5 C) range? This is more toward 30 or if I’m riding easy. Shoes: Fizik Arctica for road, 45Nrth Ragnarok for SPD Socks: Medium weight wool sock Bibs: Bib tights, lighter if it’s not windy, thicker if it is Base layer: one tight thin turtleneck base, one slightly heavier regular base layer Jersey: thermal jersey Gloves: 45Nrth Nokken Hat: bontrager thermal cap so you can fold it up For closer to 40 I’d ditch a base layer and bring a vest in case I need it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 21:57
|
|
|
If it's 40, probably leg warmers, shoe covers, thermal jersey, uninsulated jacket, warm gloves, cap, buff. If it's more like 30, bib tights, thermal jersey, insulated jacket, winter boots, same gloves and cap and stuff. If it's much under 30, extra layer, maybe ski glove shells and hand warmers, shorter ride, or just get on zwift or go for a run or ski or something. I have the poc thermal gloves. They're pretty good but I wish had wrist cuffs to keep warm air in and they proved to be not very durable. Bunch of holes in the fingers after like a year. Waiting for a warranty pair but they're out of my size. Thinking about trying somer 45nrths, either the sturmfist 4 or 5. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Jan 10, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 22:13
|
|
|
Sab0921 posted:What do y'all wear when riding in the 30-40 F (-1-5 C) range? At the lower end of that range, most gloves start proving insufficient even at lower speeds. I don't own super cold weather gloves, so I sometimes wear some knit merino gloves over a pair of Castelli Spettacolo RoS. There's not enough room to put them under. On the other hand tops can be super-effective. I can wear nothing but a summer baselayer and a Castelli Alpha RoS jacket down to freezing. I went out the door once with a thicker fall/winter base and felt too hot immediately. Thermal bibs. I have a lighter weight pair and a heavier pair depending on the temps. Socks like Woolie Boolies and shoe covers. A thermal neck gaiter / head thingy is really useful. Something I can pull over my head/ears if needed. An aero road helmet. Low 30s hits different when you're going 25mph vs 20mph. Also when it's overcast or humid... TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Jan 10, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 22:25
|
|
|
Sab0921 posted:What do y'all wear when riding in the 30-40 F (-1-5 C) range? I have a two layer ski jacket I got on sale I use over a wool turtleneck, and on the bottom some bike shorts, then cheap leggings, then sweatpants. I don't have thermal bibs. For socks I just wear ski socks in my normal shoes. I have some PI cold weather gloves that mostly work well at those temps although I'm thinking about getting some lobster style. I have a 250M merino cap for my head that works great. My jacket comes up to my chin so I find I don't need a scarf or buff. Basically I just embrace the Michelin Man aesthetic and I can ride in that get up all day, unzipping my top if I need to cool off.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 23:23
|
|
|
Sab0921 posted:What do y'all wear when riding in the 30-40 F (-1-5 C) range? Road kit. Just chug half a mickey of fireball before the ride and kill the bottle at the half way point.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 23:38
|
|
|
I'm pedaling my cargo bike slowly under an overpass and hear some squeaking right behind me echoing off the wall, so I take care to signal my turn. I look back and there's no one. The squeaking was my own chain  The length of the rear means a lot of the drivetrain is behind you instead of under you.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 06:55
|
|
|
This might be a dumb question but it's ok to run a Sram xx1 11speed chain on a 2x11 setup right? I already bought and fitted it before realising it is supposedly "1x specific" but that has to be marketing bs? It looks very similar to the pc1170 it's replacing. I can't return it, it shifts really well on the stand but haven't managed to get out on a proper ride yet. I searched on the internet and found mostly people saying it should be fine but there were the usual "why use anything other than the exact specific one do you want to die?" responses.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 07:30
|
|
|
It’s fine. I do it all the time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 11:14
|
|
|
My speed sensor seems to have broken on me.  It just shuts off a couple of minutes into pedaling no matter what speed, I can't tell if its a bluetooth problem with my phone or maybe I need to change the batteries.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 15:22
|
|
|
Raenir Salazar posted:My speed sensor seems to have broken on me. Probably batteries.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 16:06
|
|
|
Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:It’s fine. I do it all the time. Sweet I'm hoping I can actually ride today. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 20:02
|
|
|
So I have power meter questions. I have an older Power2Max that uses a battery that is nonstandard. It also uses five bolt chainrings. I have a 105 5800 groupset that I'm going to swap onto my Allez in lieu of its older Tiagra, Tektro, and FSA components and I would like to take advantage of Shimano's four bolt chainrings and their smoother front shifting. That said I've been looking into a new power meter. All I can find in crank based dual sided power at the moment are as follows: A Stages R8000 dual sided meter. This is of course out of stock at the moment. In addition R8000 is 12 speed right? Can I run the 12 speed crankset with an 11spd rear mech and cassette? A Quark Dfour, which would necessitate me replacing my currently Shimano specific bottom bracket and buying 12spd Shimano chainrings. A 4iiii R7000 dual sided meter. Also out of stock. Same question as the other two, can you run 12spd chainrings with a 11spd drivetrain? Another option is pedal based power. I'm considering this because the concerns about buying a power meter and then being locked into a specific era of crankrings, and those eras being shorter than I'd like (how long did we do 11spd, eight years or so?). My concerns are durability and potential for damage due to pedal strike or a slow fall. I haven't really had the first issue, but slow falls happen to all of us occasionally. Basically, is there a general consensus on what power meters are best? I know about DC Rainmaker and have read his guides over the past few years. Additionally, does anyone have single sided power and is content with it?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 23:12
|
|
|
Xir posted:Basically, is there a general consensus on what power meters are best? I know about DC Rainmaker and have read his guides over the past few years. Ray himself says there is no "best" just what works for you. Based on your preference to not be locked into a specific crank I'd say pedals make the most sense. Maybe also consider hub-based? I know then you're committed to a wheel but a bit more long-term compatibility there vs cranks perhaps? Disclosure - I do not have a power meter (other than the trainer), just going by what I've read/know. If I was to buy one I'd do single-sided Stages or 4iii on the cheap, or go all in with Garmin pedals.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 23:50
|
|
|
Xir posted:So I have power meter questions. R8000 is 11spd, but dual-sided Shimano 11spd PMs are bad and inaccurate. The quarq Dfour will lock you in to buying overpriced Dura-Ace chainrings. That said: Shimano shifts fine on 5-bolt chainrings. There's no reason to replace your existing crank unless you just feel like it for funsies, but you're not going to notice any difference.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2022 23:58
|
|
|
bicievino posted:R8000 is 11spd, but dual-sided Shimano 11spd PMs are bad and inaccurate. Mostly the desire to replace the existing meter is to get away from the nonstandard battery and I need to replace chainrings anyway. I discovered the 4iiii R7000 is 11spd and doesn't force me to buy Dura-Ace anything, so there's that. I didn't think the front shifting would be worlds better, so I'm not terribly disappointed to find out I wouldn't notice the difference.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 00:17
|
|
|
Power pedals tend to have the mechanism on the spindle rather than having the pedal body be a part of the electronics, at least nowadays. They're pretty resilient.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 00:33
|
|
|
Assioma Duo gang rise up. They’re great, and somehow they haven’t jacked the price up.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 02:43
|
|
|
Recently got Assioma Duo-Shi's and like them so far (from a limited run of trainer rides, nothing outside yet).
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 03:30
|
|
|
Xir posted:Mostly the desire to replace the existing meter is to get away from the nonstandard battery and I need to replace chainrings anyway. I discovered the 4iiii R7000 is 11spd and doesn't force me to buy Dura-Ace anything, so there's that. If you're looking for dual sided, stay away from R7000. If you're road only, the suggestion of Assiomas is the best way to go.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 04:20
|
|
|
amenenema posted:Ray himself says there is no "best" just what works for you. Based on your preference to not be locked into a specific crank I'd say pedals make the most sense. PowerTap is dead/dormant. SRAM bought the assets and discontinued the G3 hub and P2 pedals. The best power meters for road are the following: Pedal-based = Favero Assioma, Garmin Rally Spider-based = Quarq, Power2Max...maaaaaybe Sigeyi. Crank-based = left-only Stages, left-only 4iiii ... do not buy any Shimano L/R power meters, not even the newest R8100/R9200 versions. For gravel, options get limited due to bolt-patterns, chainring/chain compatibility, etc. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jan 13, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 04:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 22:13 |
|
|
Xir posted:So I have power meter questions. I thought old P2Ms used CR2450N batteries.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 04:31
|
|