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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Verman posted:

I had an incredibly vivid dream last night that someone broke into my garage and stole all my tools, my two dirt bikes, and most of my hiking/camping gear, vs and my chainsaw. It was one of those painfully realistic dreams that just kept playing out way longer than a dream should. The thieves broke in through a window/door that doesn't actually exist and interrupt coming back Thankfully my garage is pretty secure in real life. The only door is my garage door. No side door. We lock the door between my house and the garage with a deadbolt.

I woke up completely devastated and realized it was just a dream but I started considering how I could better secure my garage. Eventually we'll get a new door opener as ours is an ancient model without a remote.

Dirt bikes are light enough that two people could carry them out by hand.

Either way, I woke up in a panic. I walked out to my garage this morning, thankfully still full. Having my (then a rental) house broken into a few years ago definitely gave me PTSD.

I installed a 4 cam 4K security system last year whenever neighborhood theft took a dramatic uptick. Coax because I like one and done, but I think wifi is an easier install. Bit of a tricky setup to go wired, so you want to meticulously goonplan it. It won't absolutely prevent thieves except when they see that little infrared light, they'll typically keep moving. Unless you just leave poo poo laying out, which is like daring them. Okay, tmi.

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canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
If your garage door is the rolling accordion type, a precaution is to shorten or remove the hanging manual release rope. (shown in downward, released position)


When closed, that little guy is hanging a foot away from the door. A thief can gain entry easily by making a hook from a wire hanger, shoving it up through the top seal and fishing around for the rope. It doesn't take much pressure to release it, and now the door can open freely. If there's no cord or if someone's determined enough, they can grab the lever itself with a tool and pull it down. I've seen companies sell a little metal U shaped frame to go around it so a tool can't grab one of the eyelets inside.

This IS a safety feature though, so for whatever you decide you should weigh the risk of theft vs. compromising the feature. Some folk wisdom has said to disable it via zip tie, which sounds insane. My solution is to shorten it to where it can't be threaded out the front and remove all the knots and handles, so it can't be gripped by a grabbing tool.
Zip tie explained by UL:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wVGQjooftI

I installed one of the My Q garage door opener smart home whatever systems at my parents' house last year, and they love it. They have one car parked in the garage and another in the driveway. They stopped keeping a garage remote in the driveway vehicle, because it was a target for break-ins, instead opting to attach it to the keychain for that vehicle. The cool thing about the app-connected garage opener is that it sends push alerts to their phones whenever the garage door is opened, they can always check the status of the garage door on their phone (opened or closed), and it tells then the last time the door status changed. It was like $40 or something, and was a universal thing that interfaced with their existing garage door opener by mimicking a universal remote. I'm sure there are some extra security concerns with connecting a garage door to your wifi, but that's beyond my pay grade.

Opioid
Jul 3, 2008

<3 Blood Type ARRRRR
I’ve got all Makita cordless stuff (drill, driver, sander, tire pump) so far and am looking at getting a Brad nailer as I start to build my cleat wall for tools in my garage. Seems like the best way to whip together new tool holders.

Should I get a mini compressor and air gun or just grab the cordless Makita nailer? Not sure how the cordless ones do, I’ve only ever used the compressed air nailers in the farm workshop while growing up.

My newly completed workbench - went with cheap ply and repurposed an old mini bench and 2x4s for supports. Used up some tung oil I had laying around for the top, milk painted the supports and legs. Lots of room for the tool wall now

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

canyoneer posted:

If your garage door is the rolling accordion type, a precaution is to shorten or remove the hanging manual release rope. (shown in downward, released position)


What the gently caress man, now I've got one more thing to be paranoid about.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Opioid posted:

I’ve got all Makita cordless stuff (drill, driver, sander, tire pump) so far and am looking at getting a Brad nailer as I start to build my cleat wall for tools in my garage. Seems like the best way to whip together new tool holders.

Should I get a mini compressor and air gun or just grab the cordless Makita nailer? Not sure how the cordless ones do, I’ve only ever used the compressed air nailers in the farm workshop while growing up.

My newly completed workbench - went with cheap ply and repurposed an old mini bench and 2x4s for supports. Used up some tung oil I had laying around for the top, milk painted the supports and legs. Lots of room for the tool wall now



I bought a small pancake compressor and a brad nailer, but I hardly ever use it because it takes several minutes to come up to pressure, and I normally only use brads as a substitute for clamps when I'm making... things like French cleat holders.

My understanding is the cordless ones work pretty good, unless you need to fire a lot of nails very quickly. They take half a second or so to shoot a nail, but that's fine for what I do. I might end up eating the cost and buying cordless too, but I'll probably do Ryobi because they're much cheaper, but either way.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

Opioid posted:

I’ve got all Makita cordless stuff (drill, driver, sander, tire pump) so far and am looking at getting a Brad nailer as I start to build my cleat wall for tools in my garage. Seems like the best way to whip together new tool holders.

Should I get a mini compressor and air gun or just grab the cordless Makita nailer? Not sure how the cordless ones do, I’ve only ever used the compressed air nailers in the farm workshop while growing up.

My newly completed workbench - went with cheap ply and repurposed an old mini bench and 2x4s for supports. Used up some tung oil I had laying around for the top, milk painted the supports and legs. Lots of room for the tool wall now



You will get fed up with waiting for the air compressor pretty f'n quick. If you had a big shop compressor I would say jump on the air gun but without one just go with the battery. You'll have way less downtime.

DoubleT2172
Sep 24, 2007

more falafel please posted:

I might end up eating the cost and buying cordless too, but I'll probably do Ryobi because they're much cheaper, but either way.

If you do go Ryobi look to buy from https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/ while on sale. Their factory blemished seem to be nearly perfect with a warranty still and a great discount. They had 30% off for the new year, got the 18 volt One+ 18 gauge brad nailer tool only for $76

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FISHMANPET posted:

What the gently caress man, now I've got one more thing to be paranoid about.

Yeah, we have a specific tool for that on the fire trucks. It takes like 10 seconds.

I never consider a garage to be a "secure space" if it's got an opener like that.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

DoubleT2172 posted:

If you do go Ryobi look to buy from https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/ while on sale. Their factory blemished seem to be nearly perfect with a warranty still and a great discount. They had 30% off for the new year, got the 18 volt One+ 18 gauge brad nailer tool only for $76

Yeah, directtoolsoutlet is the only reason I've stuck with the Ryobi platform outside of the drill/driver kit I bought when I bought my house.

I've recently been moving onto team teal, but it's hard to beat the deals on reconditioned/blemished Ryobi for stuff that doesn't need to be great.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

Motronic posted:

Yeah, we have a specific tool for that on the fire trucks. It takes like 10 seconds.

I never consider a garage to be a "secure space" if it's got an opener like that.

I guess the door from the garage into my "workshop" is gonna get a nice lock, and I guess I'll stick with some sliding or hinged barn doors instead of putting in a standard Garage Door.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Nothing is ever secure.. it's all about the level of deterrence
still not super secure I use one of the locking interlocks so I dont need to break a window to get into my garage..
Sure a guy with a hanger and enough time can get into your garage door by hooking the release with a coat-hanger (I suggest just taking the T handle off so they cant easily hook).
they can also use a brick and window if they really want to get in.

Locks et all are generally just to say.. hey if you wanna rob me fine, but it's gunna take some effort.
When I had a convertible I just left nothing of value in my car and kept it unlocked, nothing left in my vehicle was worth a new top or insurance premium (not saying someone would assume locked and cut top ro throw rock through window)

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Opioid posted:

I’ve got all Makita cordless stuff (drill, driver, sander, tire pump) so far and am looking at getting a Brad nailer as I start to build my cleat wall for tools in my garage. Seems like the best way to whip together new tool holders.

Should I get a mini compressor and air gun or just grab the cordless Makita nailer? Not sure how the cordless ones do, I’ve only ever used the compressed air nailers in the farm workshop while growing up.

My newly completed workbench - went with cheap ply and repurposed an old mini bench and 2x4s for supports. Used up some tung oil I had laying around for the top, milk painted the supports and legs. Lots of room for the tool wall now



The cordless finish guns are good but pricey. Great when you gotta drive a few nails but don't feel like dealing w a compressor and hose. Air tools are a great value, more durable, and repairable. You can get a refurbished metabo finish nailer for $50 and it'll probably last a lifetime w maintenance.

Id say go for cordless if you just want the brad nailer but having a compressor opens up a new world of great inexpensive tools

Brad nails arent a structural fastener, are you using them w an adhesive or something? Construction screws would be best for the cleats IMO

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

more falafel please posted:

I bought a small pancake compressor and a brad nailer, but I hardly ever use it because it takes several minutes to come up to pressure, and I normally only use brads as a substitute for clamps when I'm making... things like French cleat holders.


which one do you have, the porter-cable? i have a makita 2gal in my shop and it takes <30 seconds to hit 90psi. dealing with the hose takes longer for me

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

lil poopendorfer posted:

which one do you have, the porter-cable? i have a makita 2gal in my shop and it takes <30 seconds to hit 90psi. dealing with the hose takes longer for me

The Harbor Freight 3 gal one. It's a bit of a catch-22: if it wasn't such a piece of crap, maybe I'd use it more, so I'd feel like it makes sense to upgrade. But I don't want to upgrade the piece of crap because I barely ever use it, because it's a piece of crap.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
I love my cordless DeWalt brad nailer. Would recommend all day.

Anyone have a recommendation on a laser level for a whole room? The name brand ones are pricey in comparison to some highly rated ones on Amazon for a fraction of the cost.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

wandler20 posted:

I love my cordless DeWalt brad nailer. Would recommend all day.

Anyone have a recommendation on a laser level for a whole room? The name brand ones are pricey in comparison to some highly rated ones on Amazon for a fraction of the cost.

In general, measuring tools aren’t the thing to cheap out on. That said, the Bosch laser level without the plumb dot is like $50, is that too much?

E: $40 at Home Depot
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-3...-30-S/207134022

lil poopendorfer fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jan 8, 2022

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

lil poopendorfer posted:

In general, measuring tools aren’t the thing to cheap out on. That said, the Bosch laser level without the plumb dot is like $50, is that too much?

E: $40 at Home Depot
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-3...-30-S/207134022

I was looking at something like this:

DEWALT 12V MAX Line Laser, 5 Spot + Cross Line, Green (DW0825LG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHHD6JN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_D98YGKVMK3PCKJV6VHVA

Maybe that's overkill.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

more falafel please posted:

The Harbor Freight 3 gal one. It's a bit of a catch-22: if it wasn't such a piece of crap, maybe I'd use it more, so I'd feel like it makes sense to upgrade. But I don't want to upgrade the piece of crap because I barely ever use it, because it's a piece of crap.

Yeah I feel that, 3 gallon is a little on the big side too which doesn’t help.

I just feel like all cordless nailers are overpriced. The Makita bare tool brad nailer is $260 … where does that money go? That’s more than their excellent rear handle saw. I guess it’s ok if you only ever use one gun but then if you need a micropinner & a 15ga too, you’re out another $500

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

wandler20 posted:

I was looking at something like this:

DEWALT 12V MAX Line Laser, 5 Spot + Cross Line, Green (DW0825LG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHHD6JN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_D98YGKVMK3PCKJV6VHVA

Maybe that's overkill.

100% Unless you’re a professional carpenter. If you just want something to hang stuff level/plumb, a simple laser with horizontal & vertical lines is plenty.

You mention “for a whole room” .. If you need 360 line projection, then idk. Never used one, I have the simple Bosch and then the $300 Bosch w a plumb dot. Dunno what it is about the plumb dot that quintuples the price

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

lil poopendorfer posted:

100% Unless you’re a professional carpenter. If you just want something to hang stuff level/plumb, a simple laser with horizontal & vertical lines is plenty.

You mention “for a whole room” .. If you need 360 line projection, then idk. Never used one, I have the simple Bosch and then the $300 Bosch w a plumb dot. Dunno what it is about the plumb dot that quintuples the price

You know how much plumbs cost these days???

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Literally A Person posted:

You know how much plumbs cost these days???

im plum give out

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

I have the basic Skil green laser one and it works just fine.

They have a 360 version for 1/3 the price of that DeWalt

https://www.amazon.com/Self-Leveling-Horizontal-Vertical-Rechargeable-Charging/dp/B088B8NZ1C/

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Hey I'm back with more questions about table saws as I kick the tires and hem and haw about what I actually want to buy -

Right now my local home depot has a $200 off Ridgid jobsite saw w/ stand, basically bringing the price down into the cheap table saw range. Thoughts on this one?

e. for woodworking - not carpentry, I should add. i.e. is the fence on this one any good etc

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

CommonShore posted:

Hey I'm back with more questions about table saws as I kick the tires and hem and haw about what I actually want to buy -

Right now my local home depot has a $200 off Ridgid jobsite saw w/ stand, basically bringing the price down into the cheap table saw range. Thoughts on this one?

e. for woodworking - not carpentry, I should add. i.e. is the fence on this one any good etc

I found the fence on my R4518 to be frustrating to use, personally. It tended to deflect some, and also was hard to keep parallel to the miter tracks. I dunno which model you're looking at.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Danhenge posted:

I found the fence on my R4518 to be frustrating to use, personally. It tended to deflect some, and also was hard to keep parallel to the miter tracks. I dunno which model you're looking at.

R4514. I can't imagine that they have different fences. In fact, "fence is good" is pretty much my top criterion for a table saw, along with "blade stays at the angle you set it at"

I think I'll pass on it then - thanks!

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Danhenge posted:

I found the fence on my R4518 to be frustrating to use, personally. It tended to deflect some, and also was hard to keep parallel to the miter tracks. I dunno which model you're looking at.

Ugghh I feel you. I bought this table saw myself and have not been happy with it. I really wanted to get a used hybrid saw with a cast iron table but didn't live in a space where that was realistic.

Is there a portable/stowable saw with decent build quality? Something that you can reasonably use for more than rough construction?

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

HolHorsejob posted:

Ugghh I feel you. I bought this table saw myself and have not been happy with it. I really wanted to get a used hybrid saw with a cast iron table but didn't live in a space where that was realistic.

Is there a portable/stowable saw with decent build quality? Something that you can reasonably use for more than rough construction?

Even the JET jobsite saw is still just that, a really kick rear end jobsite saw. Is it going to be more accurate? gently caress yeah, but if you want something that is really made for woodworking you're just looking for a different tool altogether as it were.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
Also I want the JET jobsite saw.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

HolHorsejob posted:

Ugghh I feel you. I bought this table saw myself and have not been happy with it. I really wanted to get a used hybrid saw with a cast iron table but didn't live in a space where that was realistic.

Is there a portable/stowable saw with decent build quality? Something that you can reasonably use for more than rough construction?
I'll defend the DeWalt job site saw to my dying breath. I say that as someone who has literally never laid a finger on a fancy table saw, so I have no frame of reference to be fair, but the fence is square and solid, and it handles anything I throw at it. The only limitation is the obvious one - Table size.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
So I know the DeWalt jobsite saw has a rack & pinion fence system. Well, not sure how many other similarities there are, but the Masterforce (Menards premium house brand) jobsite saw has, as far as I can tell, the same fence system.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
If you start small a bosch or dewalt will be enough assuming you get a good one and check the arbor run off (and return it if it's bad). The fences for both are very good.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Slugworth posted:

I'll defend the DeWalt job site saw to my dying breath. I say that as someone who has literally never laid a finger on a fancy table saw, so I have no frame of reference to be fair, but the fence is square and solid, and it handles anything I throw at it. The only limitation is the obvious one - Table size.

The fence is absolutely tits on the 7491RS for something of it's size. Not a fan of the composite surface and the miter slots are pretty trash due to the composite top.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I think the new Skil jobsite saw is supposed to be pretty good too? The brand has a new owner and apparently they're interested in making good tools.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Bondematt posted:

The fence is absolutely tits on the 7491RS for something of it's size. Not a fan of the composite surface and the miter slots are pretty trash due to the composite top.

I think that saw is probably only for the exact problem of "want accurate but mobile" though. The prices I'm seeing on that are about 25% more than the Ridgid cast iron saw.

How bad is King stuff? I was poking around and saw that a brand-new 14" king band saw with a 9" resaw depth is only $1000, but then I see their jobsite saws are like $200 so

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


HolHorsejob posted:

Ugghh I feel you. I bought this table saw myself and have not been happy with it. I really wanted to get a used hybrid saw with a cast iron table but didn't live in a space where that was realistic.

Is there a portable/stowable saw with decent build quality? Something that you can reasonably use for more than rough construction?
The dewalt one is the one people in the woodworking thread seem to like best. As with most any machine, the requirement to be portable involves alot of compromises on 'things that make a good table saw,' so don't expect the same kind of performance you'd get on a cast iron cabinet saw, but lots of people do very good work with them.


CommonShore posted:

How bad is King stuff? I was poking around and saw that a brand-new 14" king band saw with a 9" resaw depth is only $1000, but then I see their jobsite saws are like $200 so
Looking at their stuff it looks like all the heavier machines comes from the same factories in Taiwan as Grizzly/Laguna/Oliver/Jet/Rikon/Powermatic, so it's probably basically okay in theory with variable quality control depending on which color paint it has. No idea where King stands on the 'consistent QC' scale.

For instance, Grizzly, Laguna, and Oliver all also sell this exact shaper:
https://www.kingcanada.com/en/products/woodworking/shapers/kc-366sh-5-hp-1-14-industrial-shaper-with-digital-readout
I own the laguna version and it's fine, the Oliver version is quite common in small shops here too. Much like Grizzly in the US though, some of that stuff, especially portable stuff, can be very hit or miss by machine model from 'pretty good' to 'not great.'

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

The dewalt one is the one people in the woodworking thread seem to like best. As with most any machine, the requirement to be portable involves alot of compromises on 'things that make a good table saw,' so don't expect the same kind of performance you'd get on a cast iron cabinet saw, but lots of people do very good work with them.

Looking at their stuff it looks like all the heavier machines comes from the same factories in Taiwan as Grizzly/Laguna/Oliver/Jet/Rikon/Powermatic, so it's probably basically okay in theory with variable quality control depending on which color paint it has. No idea where King stands on the 'consistent QC' scale.

For instance, Grizzly, Laguna, and Oliver all also sell this exact shaper:
https://www.kingcanada.com/en/products/woodworking/shapers/kc-366sh-5-hp-1-14-industrial-shaper-with-digital-readout
I own the laguna version and it's fine, the Oliver version is quite common in small shops here too. Much like Grizzly in the US though, some of that stuff, especially portable stuff, can be very hit or miss by machine model from 'pretty good' to 'not great.'

If it's anything like metalworking machine tools, the differences in otherwise-identical low-end machines is in QC, tolerancing, sourcing, and support. The castings all come from the same foundry, and often the assembled product is made for multiple brands on the same factory floor. Each brand is built to a price, and with that in mind, the things that differentiate them:

Sourcing - The cheaper brands source parts from whoever meets their price and claims to meet the spec that week. Things like bearings, grease, power electronics, motors, fasteners are all market specials for that production run.

Tolerancing - Cheaper, less precise processes are used, finishing steps are skipped, alloys and plastics are whatever's cheapest that week. Shafts don't run true, bearing fits are too tight, bores are out of spec, etc, The machine either gives crappy results on fine work, can't handle any significant load (depth of cut, thickness of workpiece, etc.), or wears out unreasonably fast.

QC - A much coarser filter all the way down. A test cut looks like crap but the machine "works when you turn it on." Quality is all over the place. Parts aren't binned, or are chosen from failures from another brand's production run. Badly failed components are given a slapdash rework to quickly get them back onto the production floor.

Support - Forget about it. Replacement parts are unavailable, manuals are useless, might be an email address where someone who doesn't know the product google translates a response to your questions if you're lucky.

HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jan 11, 2022

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I killed my cordless drill, grinding and sparks from a brushless motor cant be good. I told myself when this happened I would buy into a red or yellow battery system, I'm still undecided and I got tired of using plug in drills real quick.

Other than the drill/driver kit I was planning on picking up a small chainsaw, the high torque impact, and eventually a tire inflator and flood light. Both make a good impact but Dewalt seems to have the better inflator, otherwise I cant really see anything else that stands out.

One thing with Milwaukee is it seems to be whats on everyone's truck when you're on a site.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
I've got 12v Milwaukee and 20v DeWalt. Both are great and no complaints from any of the tools I own. I will say my Flexvolt chainsaw might be my favorite cordless tool.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
Milwaukee shows up at jobsites because they have a shitload of specialty tools in thier cordless line-up. They sell a loving battery operated pipe freezer for the love of God.

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Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
The DeWalt 60v chainsaw is a next-level tool. I bought my sister a yellow and black drill and impact set, both brushless with two batteries, a charger, and a bag for 150$.

With that said, Milwaukee is good poo poo and so is Makita. Putting forward my cordless brand tie-breaker: do you have any family or friends nearby who have cordless tools and what are they on? What brand(s) are sold at the closest hardware store to you, or the one you go to most often? Very convenient to be able to run out and grab another tool to get a job done without waiting for shipping.

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