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Are you turning it the right way? 
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Jan 14, 2022 13:36
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If you're worried about damaging your swingarm, use a 2x4 or some other hefty wood instead of a steel bar. The wood will deform and give way before your swingarm does, probably. Also see if you can apply some local heat, maybe. Could be that previous owner used thread locker to "just be safe"? Try heat and maybe rapping on the socket you have on the nut with a sledge a few times to see if you can crack either the possible threadlocker or maybe just kind mechanically jolt it a little? I dunno if any of those are awful suggestions, I'm sure someone will know.
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Jan 14, 2022 14:58
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epswing posted:Are you turning it the right way? Triple checked that one pretty early on in the process, yeah. As for heat we have an electric heat gun, an oxyacetylene torch and a few things in between. I just figured that there's bound to be a seal behind the sprocket and whatever else that's sensitive to heat that's bound to migrate along the shaft. Potential for more parts to replace afterwards so we'd rather not if it can be avoided. Perhaps it can't. I kind of like the idea of gently heating in case of thread lock actually. I mean, the washer behind the nut was staked over the nut just like the book says to do, so it's not impossible someone locktited it when torqueing to spec. Maybe that's all it is. I'd like to try giving the pneumatic nut fucker a few more atmospheres of pressure before going completely ape on the breaker bar though.
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Jan 14, 2022 15:33
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Yeah everyone on thumpertalk seems to say to threadlock the nut in addition to the folded washer so it's not out of the realm of possibility. Good luck!
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Jan 14, 2022 15:39
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Invalido posted:A: Better setup and more force on the breaker bar. Lock the chain around a naked rear axle This is what I did for mine, just on the stock axle. Worked a treat, though I don't think mine was stuck nearly as bad as yours.
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Jan 14, 2022 15:47
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Put a rag around the bar you’re using to stop the wheel or as mentioned, use wood. Then put a big rear end breaker bar on there and push Part of the problem is that the cush drive is absorbing some of the force so you need even more force. This also may be why the impacts aren’t working. Everything’s just bouncing off the cush drive and not all of the force is being applied to the nut.
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Jan 14, 2022 16:17
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Yeah the cush drive can't be involved, that's why we put the bar through the sprocket and not just the wheel. There was also a bunch of swing arm deflection and fork compression happening. These issues can be dealt with at least to an extent, we just wanted to think on it, ask you people and not break something unnecessarily. If it takes an hour or two to set up the next serious attempt then that's what we'll do. There's no kill like overkill sometimes.
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Jan 14, 2022 17:18
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Should I sell my MT10 and take advantage of the market? I havent had a chance to put more than 50 miles on it since spring time and I dont see myself being able to ride for the forseeable future  .
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Jan 14, 2022 18:38
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Tenchrono posted:Should I sell my MT10 and take advantage of the market? I havent had a chance to put more than 50 miles on it since spring time and I dont see myself being able to ride for the forseeable future Would a different type of bike make you ride more? Or something new coming out that you're really jazzed about? If yes to either, then I'd say sell it and buy something new when you're ready to ride again, just keep the supply fuckery in mind if you want the hot new thing.
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Jan 14, 2022 18:50
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When I changed the sprocket and chain on my KLR I couldn't get the nut off either. I took the chain guard off, carefully drove it over to the auto shop around the corner, and asked nicely. Their impact socket took it right off in one hit, then he put it back on gently so I could ride home and remove it easily.
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Jan 14, 2022 20:57
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Russian Bear posted:Would a different type of bike make you ride more? Or something new coming out that you're really jazzed about? If yes to either, then I'd say sell it and buy something new when you're ready to ride again, just keep the supply fuckery in mind if you want the hot new thing. I couldnt bring myself to do it  . Took it out for a quick warmup before taking photos and decided its too fun to sell.
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Jan 15, 2022 02:16
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At what point do I need to send fork tunes off for rechroming? I'm half way through replacing fork seals and I noticed there are some light scratches on the chrome tubing. Can't feel them at all.
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Jan 15, 2022 11:22
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tzam posted:fork tunes If you can't feel them they are unlikely to damage the seals, but when the finish starts to wear off the forks they are no longer protected against corrosion. Bug guts, condensation, and moisture turns to pits, and it's pits that kill the seals. While you've got the stanchions out and you're inspecting them make sure they are not bent, you can do this by rolling them across the most flat surface you can find (granite countertop, thick tempered glass, something like that). If you can see a gap below as you roll them they are bent out of spec. If they are bent out of spec you might want to replace them immediately. I've had a few sets of forks go through my hands that looked straight but were bent just enough out of spec to be junk and had to part them. One was a 45mm upper tube from a CBR600RR, one a 50mm upper from a CBR929, and one 43mm upper tube from a F4i. 37-41mm tubes that are common can be bent like toothpicks just by bumping the bike hard enough into a curb. If you've owned the bike since new and can't recall any bumps like that it's likely not an issue. It is something to check on older bikes, especially anything that's got crash damage.
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Jan 15, 2022 12:55
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Tenchrono posted:I couldnt bring myself to do it If you're thinking about selling one of your bikes give it a good cleaning and scrub down and then reconsider. One weird trick, etc. Gorson fucked around with this message at 13:14 on Jan 15, 2022 |
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Jan 15, 2022 12:56
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RightClickSaveAs posted:I've recently noticed a high pitched noise on my 2020 Ninja 400 in lower gears at higher RPMs, does this seem like anything unusual? The first few times it happened I thought I'd hit my horn while shifting up or something. I haven't ridden much until recently but don't remember noticing it until now. In case you're still wondering about this noise, that's the horn. It's common for the ninja 400 horn to make horn noises at 8-9k rpm for some reason. You can try tightening the screw that holds the horn to its bracket, or put a rubber washer under it. I replaced mine with some car horn anyway since no one can hear motorcycle horns.
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Jan 15, 2022 20:09
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superunknown posted:In case you're still wondering about this noise, that's the horn. It's common for the ninja 400 horn to make horn noises at 8-9k rpm for some reason. You can try tightening the screw that holds the horn to its bracket, or put a rubber washer under it. Lmao wait are you for real. I believe you, it's just the dumbest thing I've ever heard (which is why I believe you).
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Jan 15, 2022 20:12
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Slavvy posted:Lmao wait are you for real. I believe you, it's just the dumbest thing I've ever heard (which is why I believe you). I suspect it's a combination of the horn being mounted on a little wobbly bracket plus Kawasaki saving
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Jan 15, 2022 20:21
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superunknown posted:In case you're still wondering about this noise, that's the horn. It's common for the ninja 400 horn to make horn noises at 8-9k rpm for some reason. lmao. resonance is a hell of a thing. reminds me of the time i took my bike to the shop for a clattering noise that sounded for all the world like my valvetrain was dying, but only at about 4500 rpm. the old mechanic took it up and down the street and taped the speedometer cable down so it wasn't rattling against the fender. Fixed
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Jan 15, 2022 20:57
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Holy poo poo. Thank you, stupid as hell but makes so much sense, I thought it was a similar tone to the horn when I first heard it lol. I actually dropped it off a local shop but they haven't gotten a chance to look at it yet, so I think I'll go pick it up before they're closed for the long weekend.
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Jan 15, 2022 21:25
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That's the up shift buzzer!
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Jan 16, 2022 00:21
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Gorson posted:If you can't feel them they are unlikely to damage the seals, but when the finish starts to wear off the forks they are no longer protected against corrosion. Bug guts, condensation, and moisture turns to pits, and it's pits that kill the seals. I can't find any bend in them (although the straightest thing in my household is probably a steel ruler so not that straight), but on closer inspection there is some vertical scoring I can feel. 4-6 weeks and 500$ aud for rechroming, or 670 for aftermarket fork tubes, fml. Any experience removing and reinstalling fork lowers?
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Jan 18, 2022 05:16
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Yeah checking them for spec doesn't work unless they're completely disassembled and removed, sounds like maybe they are still in the triples? tzam posted:Any experience removing and reinstalling fork lowers? Not sure which step you are at or what kind of bike, typically the "upper" refers to the hard chromed part on a right side up fork, while the lower fork is the aluminum slide part that has the brake mount tangs, etc. On a upside down fork it's the opposite.
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Jan 18, 2022 15:36
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I've completely disassembled the forks, apart from the axle clamp/brake caliper mount which is what I meant by fork lower. I've used a steel ruler as a straight edge to try and check straightness as I haven't got anything better. After covid induced work from home ends I can go try it against a surface plate at work, but would probably need to take off the axle clamp before doing it, and definitely if it's going to get rechromed or replaced. From what I can see it's generally necessary to heat it with a torch and unscrew, bit leery of that as the finish is still in good shape and there is also the preload adjustment mechanism in there (I'm assuming with a bunch of orings and seals).
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Jan 18, 2022 23:20
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Ok so before you embark on one of the most painful and fraught processes in the motorcycle galaxy, post a pic of your fork scratches first. Fwiw I have never, ever seen that story end well. Even if you do everything perfectly the odds of the chroming being half a mil too big or small are like 50/50, it's Just Not Worth It unless a replacement literally doesn't exist.
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Jan 19, 2022 00:10
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Pictured prior to removing the inner tubes:  Can feel them with a fingernail as you drag it past. One fork had a thin film of oil on it the last few months, other developed a large leak I noticed mid January.
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Jan 19, 2022 00:58
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2000 grit wet sand, put it together with new seals, replace the seals again in a couple of years.
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Jan 19, 2022 02:47
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tzam posted:Pictured prior to removing the inner tubes: you should listen to the pros (slavvy) but I was changing the seals in my forks a few months back and managed to nick the tube being an ape with a screwdriver and did what he said (used some stones though since I had them) and I’ve had no issues since and I abused tf out of my suspension lol so yeah all is not lost. seal swaps are easy and a little elbow grease will fix those right up
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Jan 19, 2022 03:15
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Martytoof posted:If you're worried about damaging your swingarm, use a 2x4 or some other hefty wood instead of a steel bar. The wood will deform and give way before your swingarm does, probably. I won! I tried my biggest impact gun at full pressure, which as expected didn't do anything. I did some better rigging, just to make the stiffest possible setup, and that did it. My recipe for success: Turned down the ends of a "sacrificial axle" from some rusty old steel roundbar and tied the chain up with a couple of cheese-grade M6 bolts through it (one got badly bent, this was probably the weakest link). Since I'm replacing the chain, I didn't care too much what happened to that. The normal axle would have done just fine (maybe with some pipe over it to spread the load and not scar it), but using the lathe is always fun.  3/4" drive socket and breaker bar propped up at the right height. Also a zip tie to wrap the chain all around the sprocket, and a bit of wood to protect the plastic chain guide thing a bit.  I put a little bit of heat into it, just to soften any threadlocker that might be in there and maybe cause a little bit of thermal expansion, not a whole lot as to not risk heating up the axle seal. With that and a bit over a meter of cheater bar leverage, it actually didn't take too much to crack it loose. Definitely way more than the specified 125Nm tightening torque (wild guess is 3-400Nm), but it was entirely drama free. It felt like I put a lot more in it at the previous attempt when everything was just flexing way too much. Obviously having the final drive multiply the torque into the rear wheel isn't a great idea. The service manual says to just press the rear brake when loosening it, but that toy-sized rear brake doesn't stand a chance, especially with the rubber cush drive in between. There was no trace of threadlocker or anything, threads were clean. I think this is the factory sprocket (and possibly chain too, who knows) and the nut and axle have just had 13 years and 22000km to become really tight friends. Here's what the old sprocket looks like. Definitely due for replacement.  I just melted those rubber rings a bit on the outside when heating things up (because propane torch). The new sprocket doesn't have them, I just got a regular plain JT sprocket. No idea how much of a difference that actually makes. Didn't think of the rubber cushioning when I ordered the parts but I saw now they had those too at the same place. The old chain was causing quite some noise, especially noticeable at low speeds and low throttle. I'm hoping it's just because everything was worn to poo poo. It seemed to that the front and rear sprockets weren't quite in line with each other, with the rear sprocket being a millimeter or two further out than the front if I adjust the rear wheel so the sprockets are parallel. Not entirely sure if it's also just because of the wear (the front sprocket is also worn a bit "sideways"), if I'm just imagining things and it's all fine, or if something isn't quite straight. I'm still waiting for a new washer and nut, I'll see how things look when they are back together. Also upcoming is riveting the new chain, haven't done that before but from what I can tell seems straightforward enough. The RK chain I got came with a hollow rivet master link, and I got a couple extra just so I can bungle the first attempt. Just got a small and cheap AFAM riveter, but it looks to be able to do the job.
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Jan 19, 2022 17:10
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ionn posted:
The rubber pieces are for cushioning/noise reduction. On some bikes, they also prevent wear on the sprocket shaft seal. I'm wary of aftermarket sprockets, as years ago I had one wear down the splines on the shaft out of the engine, so it just spun inside the sprocket and required an engine-out disassembly for rebuild.
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Jan 19, 2022 17:24
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Captain McAllister posted:The rubber pieces are for cushioning/noise reduction. On some bikes, they also prevent wear on the sprocket shaft seal. I guess I'll see how much the old sprocket with the rubber on it actually did for the noise, but with or without it the chain can't really get close to the shaft seal (even if I push the chain all the way in there's a decent gap). I avoided the cheapest noname parts, and the front sprocket fits perfectly on the axle splines so I'm not overly worried about that.
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Jan 19, 2022 18:57
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tzam posted:Pictured prior to removing the inner tubes: Oh ok I get what you mean by disassemble now, they're USD's. I've never removed that part from a stanchion but I can imagine it's extremely difficult. On a right side up fork, the tube is really just a tube. That looks like normal fork-goes-up-fork-goes-down wear to me. Forks are hard chromed and the process is much more involved and expensive than show chrome, I've batted around with the idea of getting some fork stanchions chromed in gold but the price is astronomical.
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Jan 19, 2022 19:30
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Some people even crosshatch the travel area of the fork to reduce stiction, the idea being that the surface is more consistent than from the factory and does not give the seal anything to grab onto. Never done it, no idea if it actually works.
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Jan 19, 2022 19:36
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Gorson posted:Some people even crosshatch the travel area of the fork to reduce stiction, the idea being that the surface is more consistent than from the factory and does not give the seal anything to grab onto. I've met a couple of punishing old men in post-classics who swear by this. It seems to be most popular on bikes with the big clunky early USD's.
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Jan 19, 2022 19:47
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I had rust spots on mine which I sanded ok, but the sanded areas rusted even faster. So I went with some eBay gaiters, worked very well. Fitting for a senior motorcycle.
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Jan 19, 2022 20:10
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Over the years I've heard very different opinions on breaking in new engines. Is it really needed, or is it largely pointless?
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Jan 20, 2022 16:43
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Lungboy posted:Over the years I've heard very different opinions on breaking in new engines. Is it really needed, or is it largely pointless? Ari Henning did a video about this a few years ago https://youtu.be/xpoglovyy_8
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Jan 20, 2022 17:10
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Lungboy posted:Over the years I've heard very different opinions on breaking in new engines. Is it really needed, or is it largely pointless?  Thread!!! You're better than this, dont do it!
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Jan 20, 2022 17:54
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epswing posted:Ari Henning did a video about this a few years ago
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Jan 20, 2022 17:55
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Anyone got any tyre recommendations for a Kawasaki Z900RS? I’ve squared my current ones off by commuting and long motorway trips across the country to visit family and they’re now absolutely terrifying to ride on. My favourite roundabout on my way home is now arse clenching. It’s got Dunlop GPR300s on it right now, about 7000 miles on them an uhhh, I didn’t really like anything about them. No strong feelings either way, better wet performance would be nice.
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Jan 20, 2022 21:38
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I think the biggest selling point for those tires is how cheap they are. I have them too. Not great but not really bad either. I’m going to get something else for my next set, though.
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Jan 20, 2022 21:47
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