|
If you ever work on stuff that isn't live axle, these CV axle puller attachments are a great companion to your slide hammer: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Joint-Fork-Removing-Adapter/dp/B0002SRFLC/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=slide+hammer+axle&qid=1638894954&sr=8-29 Another cushion/foam idea: if your current foam can't handle the punishment, maybe some combination of cushion materials? Couches seem to often use a layer of batting applied over some foam. Sheet foam insulation seems to handle punishment pretty well (I have stood on it before with minor deformation). Put some batting over that to keep the upholstery "puffed out" and maybe that's the ticket?
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2021 17:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 21:21 |
|
|
kastein posted:Remember that if the seal is really hogged out, a new one will affect the pinion bearing drag measurement. Noticeably. Oil the seal lip so it won't affect it as much but expect it to be a little heavier after. Yeah, I'm not too worried about it at this point. I managed to do it on my RX-7, and didn't destroy anything. Someone else actually has that third member now, since I upgraded. Still OK as far as I know. I'm definitely aware I don't want to crush that sleeve any further! The procedure for getting that right again is... something I'd prefer someone else do if it comes to it. The spec on turning torque seems to be about 15 lb-in, and the manual says: [quote = "Ford CV FSM"] If the preload recorded prior to disassembly is lower than the specification for used bearings, tighten the nut to specification. If the preload recorded prior to disassembly is higher than the specification for used bearings, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded [/quote] IOwnCalculus posted:I feel you on this. I was chasing squealing bearing noise on my TJ for ages and it only showed up when the thing had been driven at least half a mile or so at speed to get warm. The frequency of this one had me thinking it was the driveshaft. It seemed "faster" than the wheel speed, but clearly it was just the bearing making noise in multiple locations. PBCrunch posted:If you ever work on stuff that isn't live axle, these CV axle puller attachments are a great companion to your slide hammer: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Joint-Fork-Removing-Adapter/dp/B0002SRFLC/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=slide+hammer+axle&qid=1638894954&sr=8-29 Interesting. I don't think I've seen one of those before. I'll keep that in mind - we have the Outback, and realistically anything we buy for my wife to replace that will be FWD/AWD. quote:Another cushion/foam idea: if your current foam can't handle the punishment, maybe some combination of cushion materials? Couches seem to often use a layer of batting applied over some foam. Sheet foam insulation seems to handle punishment pretty well (I have stood on it before with minor deformation). Put some batting over that to keep the upholstery "puffed out" and maybe that's the ticket? We'll see. All I really need is just something to keep my elbow from resting on a hard surface. Tools acquired. As a bonus, I'm a Harbor Freight Insiders' Club member, and that saved me $20 on the slide hammer!   Decent looking bit of kit. Here's a neat feature:  One of the adapters screws into your standard locking pliers, so you can yank on a lot of stuff that would be otherwise annoying. I know folks have welded 5/8-18 nuts to vice-grips to do essentially the same thing, but this just makes it easy. Took about 10 minutes and a couple of tries to get the bearing race out (the smallest size puller is just barely larger than the inner diameter of the race, so I had to let it lie off-center to capture as much lip as possible. Even so, it popped out a couple times. The next size up won't fit in the tube.)  Koyo bearing, so not crap? Just too dry, I think. Because I'm clever, I jacked up the opposite side of the axle before cleaning it out, so anything in there would come out rather than in.  Good thing. There was plenty of crap still in there.  I think I got it all:   I ran a rag on a stick around as far as I could reach, using an entire can of Brake-Kleen, and ran the extendable magnet all the way down the tube several times, swirling it around the tube all the way. That magnet was long enough to reach all the way to the carrier bearing. Now I'm just waiting on the parts.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2021 22:37
|
|
|
Got parts.  and another tool:  (didn't end up using this, but I wanted it anyway. The "click" on an lb-in click-type torque wrench is too faint.) This batch's magnet:  Sanity check on the axle looks good:  Axle fits in car (spline check, since these come in 28 and 31 spline versions.)  I also checked the bearing and seal fit on the axle before installing any of it.   Timken bearing: Dana axle part #, just for reference:  Bearing and seal went in without issue. I prelubed the hell out of the bearing with the gear oil (75W-140 synthetic, since it's a P71, though 80W-90 probably would have been fine) and an acid brush. Before installing the axle, I moved on to the pinion seal. Mark and check pinion nut position:  I decided to go this route instead of the turning torque. I may regret that I regret that basically because I'm lazy and didn't want to pull the wheel, and remove the caliper and rotor in order to pull the left axle, and because supposedly, this works... Impact zipped the pinion nut off (air impact. The Ryobi was not up to it. I'm a little disappointed in that Ryobi, if I'm honest.) Flange came off easily with a 3-jaw puller and the Ryobi impact (so it's good for some stuff!) Old seal:  Back on. Took some arm to get that last 1/4-turn, but it lined up.  Note holding tool made from a random chunk of something that I drilled two holes in. Looks like I got it right:  Hard drive magnet installed on the rear cover:  shaft reinstalled with new locking pin:  Shiny diff cover installed and torqued to spec (33 lb-ft):  Turns out the fill plug is magnetic:  All back together and the wheel bearing is fine. ...but the rearend whines a bit now. Guess I hosed up the preload somehow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R36umwzl7SA You can especially hear it at 0:16, and when I get on and off the throttle starting at 0:20. :/ It's not terrible, my AE86 makes a lot more noise, and coming in to work it was tough to hear over the stereo and wind/road noise, but I know it's there, and at like 60 it's a little louder. Only shows up under power/going uphill, at least. Still annoying as hell. edit: I didn't use the new pinion nut I bought ($5), but I'll just hang on to that. The $40 repair bearing goes back, though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2021 17:45
|
|
|
Found a complete 2005 CV rear axle on FB Marketplace for $350. He's not sure of the gear ratio, but says it's got the limited slip, which means it's either a 3.27 or the 3.55 I have. He chassis-swapped an F100, and decided to put a narrower rear axle under it so he could put wider tires on the rear. I think I'll pick that up, because the whining is really bugging me. Not all the time, but when you notice it...ugh. In the meantime, I actually did a little work on the AE86. A while back the dome light lens pretty much disintegrated, which means the LED panel I had up there sort of fell out, so last time I drove it I realized one of the festoon LEDs I bought for the CV might fit. One did, but the light was being flaky. Power and ground were good, but the switch and internal circuit were not behaving. So I rebuilt it.    Basically, the various traces are held together with aluminum rivets, and the metal had corroded just enough between layers to mess up the conductivity. Only way to fix that is to disassemble and clean, so I did. Then I reassembled with some little 1-72 x 1/4" screws I had for some model work. Works great now! When I took it to be inspected earlier this week, I was surprised that they passed it with this:   Those housings don't handle being nearly horizontal in the rain when closed, obviously. It doesn't help that there's a lens held by a steel armature in there that rusts. I was going to just throw in H6504 halogens, but they start at $11 + shipping even at Rock Auto, never mind the local auto parts. Even Amazon is $15 each for the basic name brand bulbs. So for $30/pair, I got new glass H4 housings with no-name H4 bulbs. I figured I'd try it with the HIDs, and swap in the H4s if I still hated the HIDs.  I'll kind of miss the LED city lights, but they're marginally worthless since they're you know, pop ups, and can't be seen with the headlights off. Actually, they light up all inside the bumper airdam, which looks cool, but, meh. I tried to make them work. First there was this:  What's difficult to notice is that the H4 plug is *between* the seal and the bulb, which reduces it's value as a seal. So I did some cutting, splicing, and connector-ing.  One pair of wires is for the HID, the other pair with the blade connectors is for the halogen "high beam". It still didn't really want to seal up with the boots that came witht the housings, then the bulb failed to light off, making a lovely buzzing noise. I presume that was because of this:  Must have pulled that out while trying to get everything situated. So out they came. In all honesty, they sucked anyway. Much better:  (I do have the trims for the headlight mechanisms, they're just not installed.) One complaint about the new housings:  You can't get the bulb in or out without removing one of those screws and the retainer under it. If I were keeping it, I'd grind flats on the round washer to remedy the issue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2021 19:11
|
|
|
You know, it just occurred to me that I am an absolute moron for not checking the left side rear axle bearing when I had the diff cover off.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2021 01:27
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:You know, it just occurred to me that I am an absolute moron for not checking the left side rear axle bearing when I had the diff cover off. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2021 02:11
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:If I were keeping it You’ve been saying that for a while! Tho to be fair, the value probably keeps going up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2021 23:15
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:You’ve been saying that for a while! Shut up. I'm lazy. and, to be honest, it's nice having a second running car handy. I *almost* regret selling the Kia. More accurately, I regret selling the Kia *first*, I think. Also, I found a new dome light for all of $25. Turns out, it's the same as the contemporary Hilux/Toyota Pickup, so common as dirt. The slightly tougher bit was finding an eBay listing that was a decent replacement part. Some of the aftermarket ones are probably fine, but appear to built a little less robustly. The Kotto replacement I ordered looks almost exactly like the Toyota labelled part. I only did this because the lens by itself was $15, and the lever on the original is looking a bit crispy. Of course, it won't be here until after Christmas. I forgot to mention - when I took it to be inspected, the kid who inspected it was really interested in the car, so I gave him my text #. Haven't heard from him except for the initial contact, yet. I'm having trouble figuring out how to price it. There's not any available locally just now. Initially, I was thinking like $3500-4000, but that was 2019... I would have been happy to get $3K, which is what I was asking for the RX-7 I traded for it. Now?  edit: on the dome light, it looks like one from a later model Corolla (AE92) would fit, though it looks different. Nicer, little more modern, but same mounting.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2021 18:20
|
|
|
I just ordered a variable power supply and am gonna try this zinc plating thing. I blame you.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2022 19:59
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:I just ordered a variable power supply and am gonna try this zinc plating thing. Fine by me. It's a rabbit hole, BTW. Also, variable power supplies are handy for all sorts of things, so never a waste.  Corolla dome light came in.  What the...? I can't read that!  Oh, OK. Looks decent:   Even came with a bulb, and that reflector that the OE doesn't have:  Only thing I'm concerned about is how close those traced are to shorting against the reflector. It's not held down as tightly as it could be. I just bent the traces up a bit. Not that it also uses screws (into plastic) rather than the aluminum rivets the original used. Compared:  I don't mind the darker grey, but I finally decided to keep the original, and just swapped in the lens for now. New owner, when it has one, can decide later, or if the lever disintegrates. I picked a couple hours on one good weather day to start on the patch for the RX-7's floor. The floor is apparently 18ga.:  CAD for the first part:  The ribs are going to be annoying. That's partly the reason for ending it there. Cut that piece, more or less, put in the ribs, which will shorten it, or should, then trim and make the second part. I ran out of light and fucks about that point, but I did at least trace out the patch for the part by the drain hole:  I also removed some of the sound deadener on the other side, to see how the ribs interacted. They go from an "innie" to an "outie" across the bend.  Easier to see with some primer:  Guess I'm going to have to come up with something to let me form those ribs. Also, just got confirmation from Jack's Small Engines that the new replacement valve plate shipped! I guess they do exist after all. I'll keep it as a spare, for next time. In Crown Vic news, it still whines. May have gotten louder. Guess I'll be getting that used rear. (  )edit: I can't really say until there's a lot more humidity, but the after-cooler on the air compressor seems to be working. I haven't had to drain the trap at the hose reel at all, and there seems to be a lot less water when I drain the tank. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jan 5, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2022 20:55
|
|
|
Maybe a contour gauge would help?
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2022 21:39
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:Maybe a contour gauge would help? I have several. I'm talking about actually bending the ribs into the sheet metal. I either need dies to use on my hydraulic press, or at least a shot bag so I can hammer them in with a piece of round bar or something. I came back into the thread to announce that I also bought a Viofo A129 Duo Pro dashcam. Severely tired of the old mirror replacement one I have that I can't see, and is a terrible mirror at night, to boot. I'll be replacing the stock mirror with an auto-dimming HomeLink mirror.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2022 21:44
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Fine by me. The power supply being the kind of thing I'll use constantly was my selling point. Even if I give up early I'll use everything but the zinc. Thanks for the plating effort posting though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2022 00:45
|
|
|
That reflector in the dome lamp looks suspiciously tinsnip-edged and hand-bent. The plastic rivet heads melted down to hold it in place look funny compared to the rest of the assembly, too. Did someone hand-fab that thing and it got in there somehow? I'd wedge a piece of blister pack plastic in between each trace and the plastic ribs by the reflector edges and forget about it, either way.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2022 11:06
|
|
|
A small hand crank bead roller will take care of those, and I've surprisingly used it for more than just the initial job I bought it for. I thought I'd resell it for sure but I've used it on a few random sheet metal jobs since. I can't remember what those were but I sure remember grabbing it out of the bin. I do remember I need to make a little body plug and that will be exactly the right tool to make a small chunk of sheet metal stiff.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2022 16:19
|
|
|
kastein posted:That reflector in the dome lamp looks suspiciously tinsnip-edged and hand-bent. The plastic rivet heads melted down to hold it in place look funny compared to the rest of the assembly, too. Did someone hand-fab that thing and it got in there somehow? I noticed the tin-snipped edges, too. If I end up using it I'll likely slip some electrical tape in between the reflector and the traces. In my use case the reflector isn't even necessary, because single-sided LED bulb. StormDrain posted:A small hand crank bead roller will take care of those, and I've surprisingly used it for more than just the initial job I bought it for. I thought I'd resell it for sure but I've used it on a few random sheet metal jobs since. I can't remember what those were but I sure remember grabbing it out of the bin. Yeah, I know. Of course, I'd have to buy one, and then figure out where to put it. God drat I need a shop. New dashcam for the Crown Vic came in, so I braved the 40F weather and installed it. Not many pics because it was cold and I was busy. It's a dashcam, you know what they look like. Nice packaging:  hosed the window tint a little getting the old rear camera off. I should have heated it with my heat gun a little first.  Thankfully, the missing bit is covered by the new camera, though you can still see it from the outside. Oh, well. Rear in:  (it's just wedged in for testing in that picture. I straightened it before sticking it down. And still got it a little crooked, dang it.) I bought the official hardwire kit for it, as seen in the boxes shot, because it supports the parking mode, with (car) battery run-down protection. Wired that in using the police equipment leads, same as the USB power ports already wired in for the previous unit (the smaller box dangling to the right.)  It works great. New unit has Wi-Fi, so I just connect to it with my phone to do settings and view footage, etc., though that all can be done from the built-in screen and buttons as well. Lets me tuck it up out of the way, since I really only need to reach one button to turn on the WI-Fi. 4K front/1080P rear is nice. It's also nice having a rearview mirror that I can see out of at night again. The dashcam mirror was darkened, presumably because it doesn't have the flip-down anti-glare capability that OEM mirrors do, and that combined with my window tint made it useless at night. I might have gone with one of the newer mirror dashcams that just makes the entire "mirror" a display, and shows the rear cam full time, but I have an electrochromatic HomeLink mirror I want to install.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2022 17:02
|
|
|
Oh, hey, the Eastwood 8" bead roller is only $125. Hmmm. I had an opportunity once to buy one of those 3-in-1 machines, brake, shear, and roller, for $300. I should have. Actually, looking at the 3-in-1s, they have a slip roller, but no bead rollers. Oh, crap. I just found a Woodward Fab 18" roller on Amazon that's $155 + $13 tax, free shipping, for some reason. Also 5% back on my Amazon Visa. It's $250 on their own site, and Eastwood's is $240 after sale, $10 discount code and $35 shipping. Northern Tool's is $210, and I can pick it up locally. Whelp. Woodward Fab roller will be here next week.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2022 17:44
|
|
|
I'm already looking at mods for the bead roller. Motorizing it, mainly, but a few other handy ease-of-use mods. Also reminds me I need to grab a big steel wheel from my dad's scrap pile to make a vice stand. The mount on the corner of my workbench is handy, but sometimes you need to be out in the middle of the floor or driveway. Wheel plus pipe plus concrete = solid stand. I'll stick another reciever on it to mount the vice, and make mounting plates for my grinder, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2022 23:29
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Oh, hey, the Eastwood 8" bead roller is only $125. Hmmm. Hell yeah. You're taking them to the cleaners on that free shipping. I have the Eastwood 8" and it's a heavy boy. I'd like to know how easy it is to operate at that size. 18" probably isn't too wide to be comfortable but I don't think I'd go much bigger. I actually really enjoyed using it to bend and form sheet metal, if I had another rust bucket I'd buy a powered one in a heartbeat.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2022 23:34
|
|
|
I have the A119. Been happy with it. Didn't get the official hardwire kit (NLA anyway - mine doesn't support parking mode), just a generic one with switchable ends (mini + micro = USB C). It's a fuse tap style, I just picked a random fuse that has ignition switched power. Turns out it's somehow linked to the transmission, power windows, and stereo.  The hardwire kit I have (and most of them I think) shuts off if voltage drops below a certain point. Seeing the camera shut off on my way home from work today was a good clue that my charging system wasn't alternating, despite the lack of warning light at the time...
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2022 07:13
|
|
|
I remember hanging out in my friends dad's garage surrounded by classic cars in various levels of restoration from bare frame to drop dead gorgeous 50s Vette and all he wanted to talk about were the bead roller mods after I noticed it. It was reinforced all over, motorized, and had a sewing machine pedal that could feed forwards and back and vary speed. I was jealous.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 23:25
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Hell yeah. You're taking them to the cleaners on that free shipping. I have the Eastwood 8" and it's a heavy boy. I expected the thing on Wednesday-Friday, but it came in on Sunday! Yeah, it is heavy.    Gotta love the quality placement of that Woodward Fab label - it's literally partially off of the machine. edit: also, that paintwork is fabulous It works!   18" is just about the limit of being able to hold on to the work and the crank. One of the YouTubers I watched but a wheel on his to replace the crank, and dished it to towards the work to reduce that reach a bit, among other improvements. Very nice work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCxiI8psTUE I can see why some people feel it needs bracing - it definitely flexes fore and aft as you roll stuff. I don't know if I'll be doing that just yet, but I will do the mod to add a spring to the upper roller to pull it back when the adjuster is loosened, and probably put an cap screw with an Allen wrench on the retaining bolt for that roller as well. Saw that in another mod video. If I get a wild hair, I'll do the quick-clamp like this guy did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra2-A-IuT-Q He's got a number of bead roller and metalworking videos that have some great info. Just do yourself a favor and set him to 1.25x, so he talks like a normal person. I 've looked at a number of power options, and so far the one that appeals the most is using an ATV winch (without the cable reel,) which is brilliant! Cheap enough - you can get a winch from HF for like $70. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JC_Xj7GKB0 honda whisperer posted:I remember hanging out in my friends dad's garage surrounded by classic cars in various levels of restoration from bare frame to drop dead gorgeous 50s Vette and all he wanted to talk about were the bead roller mods after I noticed it. It was reinforced all over, motorized, and had a sewing machine pedal that could feed forwards and back and vary speed. I get that. Bending tools to your will, making them better, is definitely my jam. Making tools is next level.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 18:25
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:
Quoting so I can find this later.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 18:41
|
|
|
So just a fair warning - the thread is probably going to take a detour for a bit (because it's been laser focused from the start...) A friend of mine, Anthony, was gifted his dad's 1977 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 at Christmas. It's mildly modified - a little bit of a lift, bigger wheels and tires, a few goodies on the 351M. It's been mostly sitting for a lot of years, but his dad at least ran it once a year to keep it inspected and registered. 40 years of minor digs and rust (Texas rust, not NE cancer.) My friend wants to just get it cleaned up, fully operational, and eventually paint. Not a show truck, just a nice driver. I've been tapped to help, of course, so I expect some of that will show up here. His dad's had this thing forever - I'm not sure it's since new. He definitely had it when I met Anthony in high school in 1984.       The truck is solid. No major damage anywhere, and not even very worn out. Big and loud. I've advised him to do all the mechanical work first - get 'er running and driving reliably, because a slightly ugly driver is a whole lot more fun than pretty garage art. A little polish and the paint will look very decent as is. I'd like to talk him into EFI just to make it easy to drive, especially for my not-very-mechanically-inclined friend. He's also got a bad enough back that he's on disability, so less maintenance is a desirable thing. This will be my first foray into vintage Ford, so I look forward to learning everything. Don't worry. I'll still be working on my crap, too. I can't *not*.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 00:40
|
|
|
It’s so weird seeing one of those old fords with shoulder belts. Friend had a ‘69 or so death trap, this looks safe by comparison.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 01:59
|
|
|
Little old for my preference (grew up in an '85), but I'm eager to see some content with it. A seventh gen is still on my "wouldn't it be cool" list.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 02:06
|
|
|
That thing is great. Dentsides are my Ford kryptonite, I'd buy one in a second if my other trucks disappeared and I needed another immediately.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 02:39
|
|
|
Does it have body damage? The paint looks like it's in good shape, hopefully all it needs is a good detailing. I know nothing about the 351w/c/m but would any off the shelf stand alone EFI setups work with the engine?
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 02:39
|
|
|
Off the shelf EFI should work just fine. The 351M already has electronic ignition too - should be DuraSpark II on that year model, same as I had on my 80 with the same engine. Probably has a C4 or C6 transmission and 9" rear. The Autolite 2 bbl carb on it is pretty simple though - electric choke heater, no secondaries to deal with. Even found a rebuild guide just by typing Autolite 2150 into google. Darch, your friend needs to keep a spare Duraspark module - they fail with no warning (if it has no spark, 95% of the time it'll be the module). My 80 F-150 even had a spot to mount a spare..
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 03:08
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Does it have body damage? The paint looks like it's in good shape, hopefully all it needs is a good detailing. Minor stuff only. Nothing egregious. All I've spotted so far are dings, quarter sized max. Yeah, a standalone carb-style EFI will work fine, and probably what I would recommend. Holly Sniper or similar. STR posted:Off the shelf EFI should work just fine. The 351M already has electronic ignition too - should be DuraSpark II on that year model, same as I had on my 80 with the same engine. Probably has a C4 or C6 transmission and 9" rear. The Autolite 2 bbl carb on it is pretty simple though - electric choke heater, no secondaries to deal with. Even found a rebuild guide just by typing Autolite 2150 into google. Yeah, the Duraspark is over on the inner fender in other pictures.  Also, look closer at the carb. (Holley. I think 4-barrel, but hard to tell in the pic.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2022 19:23
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Also, look closer at the carb. i dont see pictures of the carb, so maybe im missing something, but some oem ford carbs were real holleys, with an autolite tag. and a holley 2300 is basically just the front half of a 4150 anyway, so they're easy to mistake at a glance could be that these later ones use something different, though
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2022 03:30
|
|
|
Yeah that's the brake booster, not a carb.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2022 15:03
|
|
|
took me a second to recognize that was a floor jack tucked under the hood
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2022 18:24
|
|
|
Raluek posted:i dont see pictures of the carb, so maybe im missing something, but some oem ford carbs were real holleys, with an autolite tag. and a holley 2300 is basically just the front half of a 4150 anyway, so they're easy to mistake at a glance Whoops - thought I posted the engine pic in the previous post.  Mustache Ride posted:Yeah that's the brake booster, not a carb. Yes, but *that* picture was for the ignition box there on the inner fender. GOD IS BED posted:took me a second to recognize that was a floor jack tucked under the hood They used to do that a lot on pickups. Useless on this truck unless you have a stack of 2x4s, thanks to the lift, mind you, but neat that it's still there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2022 18:31
|
|
|
ah, yeah it looks like a newer replacement holley 4-barrel to me. can't really see much other than that. weirdly, it doesn't have the usual center hung float bowl on it. maybe it's one of those truck avengers, or something
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2022 09:25
|
|
|
Raluek posted:ah, yeah it looks like a newer replacement holley 4-barrel to me. can't really see much other than that. weirdly, it doesn't have the usual center hung float bowl on it. maybe it's one of those truck avengers, or something I've no idea, but I'll be finding out. Nothing new, really. I did change the cabin air filter on the Outback, and I'd just like to once again say a big, hearty, "gently caress you" to Subaru for the half-assed implementation.  9 screws, and the side panel on the center console has to come off, the end of which has one of these hateful things:  that got replaced by a push-pin style retainer this time. Old filter was definitely doing some work:  NEw TYC filter is garbage:  The element is just sitting in there, sorta captive by the plastic tabs and bits. The ends were not glued, so I gaffer taped them in. But it doesn't really matter because:  Air and poo poo can just slide right on past the filter. That would explain the leaves and other schmutz that was in the housing on the "clean" side of the filter. I chucked some more gaffer tape at it:  However, that may be a bad idea, because the heatsink for the fan speed controller is in that space, and will now be getting less airflow. We'll see. What should be there is a screen or something to at least keep the big chunks out. Amateurs. edit: oh, and I lengthened the wiring for the glovebox light so I don't have to unplug it while awkwardly holding up the glovebox with the one hand now.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 19:39
|
|
|
I never did fix the gas smell that the Outback would occasionally do when it was cold. Finally drug my rear end out to see about that. Per STR, it was probably the few bits of rubber line in the fuel lines. Well, on the EZ30, you got these damned things in the way:  Big old steel shields, with insulation, over the fuel injectors and fuel rails. Bonus points to Subaru for running every conceivable hose or wire bundle across those covers, which have to come more or less straight up thanks to braindead design, including the god damned AC lines on the driver's side:  Thankfully, I found the issue on the passenger side, where the cover was actually removable without disassembling the car.    The only rubber on the driver's side connects the fuel rail to the return line, so I think it's OK. The rubber lines were still flexible, and just that one joint was not tight on the barb, so for the time being I just tightened up the hose clamp, and all the others for good measure. It was no longer leaking when I tested it. I did piss off the ECU by not having the ambient air sensor connected when I did so, though, since that's in the airbox, which I had to remove for access to anything. BTW - the intake is *really* loud at idle with the airbox removed. Here's the removed injector cover:   I assume it's so heavy and insulated to muffle injector noise. There's really no other reason for it to even exist. Note that the two bolts that go sideways have to go through spacer tubes to reach the manifold, meaning that the bolts are 60mm long, making them a bit of a challenge to get in and out, that close to stuff on the sides of the engine bay. The bolts also thread in about 20mm just to be assholes. So nice to have one's hand wedged in there turning a fine-thread bolt forever. gently caress you, Subaru.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2022 17:44
|
|
|
It may well be for crash safety as well, the last thing you want in an accident is the injector rails getting smashed into something and gas being pumped everywhere.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2022 00:06
|
|
|
Last time we saw the RX-7, I had made a template for part of the rust repair in the footwell, and started on the one for by the drain hole nearby, as well:Darchangel posted:I picked a couple hours on one good weather day to start on the patch for the RX-7's floor. Since then, I bought the bead roller, of course. I think I posted about this before, but thanks to a neighbor who does... something... with 50-gallon drums, I have a stack of these:  Which are close enough to 18 ga. to use. I refined the patch template for the drain hole:    Then went on to cut the patch for the other part:  I got out the bead roller, and paused for a moment to mark the dies:  Then got on with rolling bends:  I'm really happy with how the bends came out! I cut the tail off after the last bead to make it easier to fit up.:  I'll be trimming the floor more for the next piece, to catch a bit more thin metal that I spotted, and to just simplify the patch. Tacked:  Burned in, a little sloppily, but not the worst:  Ground it down and discovered some missed spots. As expected, really. (I also had to chase some disappearing metal on the floor ribs there, too. I'm going to just slap a coat of epoxy down to address all those pinholes, then probably some bedliner.) I absolutely did not catch this towel on fire trying to use it to protect what little carpet is left...  I totally caught that towel on fire, right underneath my face. None of those brown spots are oil stains. Burned in and ground down:  And a little zinc primer:  It's fairly obvious it's there, but I wasn't going for an invisible repair, just a solid one. It's going to be under the carpet, never to be seen again for years. That was Saturday. Sunday everything hurt so much from contorting myself into the footwell (sooooo oooooold) that I couldn't work up the shits to give for doing the rest of it, so I cleaned up some random interior bits as I was moving some things around in the garage, whilst looking for the grout I thought I had.  The 8-ball "white" is a little bit more yellow than it looks in the photo, but I can't find anything to un-yellow it. Honestly, it's about the shade most billiard balls actually are, and it's durable, so I'll leave it alone. It stood up to polishing with Blue Magic metal polish! I think it may actually be built like a billiard ball, though it's smaller than an actual one. Also, I guess I only have the one pedal pad - and it cracked a little when I cleaned it. It's a bit crispy. I mean, it *is* 43 years old...
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2022 23:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 21:21 |
|
|
Some stuff arrived: Generator I ordered in the middle of January, which then proceeded to be out of stock. It's smaller than the one I bought after the Snowpacolypse. It's also an inverter-based unit, and very quiet. Amazon had them for $365. I decided I needed a smaller, quieter unit for when I didn't need 6000W. Buddy got one and confirmed that it is indeed very quiet, so I splurged. Other stuff is the car stereo equipment I posted about in the general chat thread. It actually came in a day early! Oh, and this was the end of the week last week, Thursday to be exact:  Thankfully, I work from home that day, and did so Friday as well. This is Texas, and that was a mess. I thought about taking the Outback out to play, but, uh, the doors were frozen shut. Even the hatch. See, that's not just snow. That was several hours of rain, which turned into several hours of freezing rain, then it snowed on top. Pretty, but treacherous. I just couldn't be arsed to properly deice the doors, so I just stayed in the house. Unlike last year, the power stayed on, so that was nice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2022 22:10
|
|