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Cat Face Joe posted:Patriot 105, it's dual action but mine has never acted as such. I've messed with the needle, I see a lot of "push forward till you feel resistance" but it feels the same all the way through. I pull the trigger back and nothing happens. Push down and it fires full blast no matter where the needle is. Any ideas on how to manage this? Does the needle move back and forth with the trigger? Also what do you mean by "it feels the same all the way through" the needle should literally stop once it's at the tip. Did you remove the tip? Is the nut actually tightened down on the needle?
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Jan 15, 2022 04:15
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Cinara posted:Does the needle move back and forth with the trigger? Also what do you mean by "it feels the same all the way through" the needle should literally stop once it's at the tip. Did you remove the tip? Is the nut actually tightened down on the needle? The needle does not move at all. I can push it all the way up and it still blows as much air as if it's was pulled all the way back. A lot of the guides I see on needle position say that you should push it forward til "you feel resistance" but mine just slides around. The nut is tight.
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Jan 15, 2022 04:18
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I think you're misunderstanding what I asked, if you can slide the needle freely out the front of the airbrush you're missing the tip. It should stick slightly out but at some point it should be literally impossible to push it any further forward.
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Jan 15, 2022 04:23
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Spanish Manlove posted:#1 is an ok general brush I paid literally $2.99 before tax for these.
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Jan 15, 2022 04:25
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I paid literally $2.99 before tax for these. yeah exactly and theyre perfect for drybrushing
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Jan 15, 2022 04:27
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Cinara posted:I think you're misunderstanding what I asked, if you can slide the needle freely out the front of the airbrush you're missing the tip. It should stick slightly out but at some point it should be literally impossible to push it any further forward. I'm clear in what you're asking. I can push the needle forward and it stops in the nozzle but it doesn't move at all when I pull/push the trigger.
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Jan 15, 2022 04:36
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Alright. So you said the nut is fully tightened down on the needle, does the rod the nut is on move when you move the trigger? The 105 is a pretty simple brush pulling this random picture off reddit you should be able to see if everything seems to be there with yours.  I actually have a super old Anthem 155 which is essentially the same except for the paint feed, I can record a video if you need to show how it should look.
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Jan 15, 2022 04:40
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Cat Face Joe posted:Patriot 105, it's dual action but mine has never acted as such. I've messed with the needle, I see a lot of "push forward till you feel resistance" but it feels the same all the way through. I pull the trigger back and nothing happens. Push down and it fires full blast no matter where the needle is. Any ideas on how to manage this? I feel like this is a misunderstanding. The needle does not control how much air is being sprayed through your airbrush. The dual action refers to: Vertical - air flow Horizontal - paint flow (by adjusting the size of the nozzle through adjusting needle position)
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Jan 15, 2022 05:14
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All my HH models are drybrushed with makeup brushes FWIW. Details are done normally, but all the panels are makeup dry-brushed. It's good.
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Jan 15, 2022 07:44
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Finished this undead marilith mini from Dungeon in a Box. Loved the model, and happy with the results, but I think I could have upped the contrast a little by starting with darker base coats. Feedback welcome.  
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Jan 15, 2022 23:05
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Dropping in here, I just finished up a major project for an upcoming tournament:      I'm really happy with how these came out, I went all out on this army and learned a lot in the process
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Jan 16, 2022 04:06
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What game? Infinity?
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Jan 16, 2022 05:09
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Last things I painted in 2021, a pair of Witchling Thralls (malifaux) And first things I painted in 2022, a Ulix Turner crew (malifaux again). Following on discussion of flock a few weeks ago, most of these use a mixture of static grass and railway modeling flock to try and get a sort of efffect of ground being churned up by pigs with vegetation of different lengths on it. Ulix himself  His dog Penelope  The Old Major  I'm not going to post shots of every model, but I'm including the Hog Whisperers here, not because of them particularly (big overhanging hat brims makes it hard to get a good shot of them) but because I'm reasonably happy with how the giant turnip turned out.  Since taking the photo I have trimmed down the single massively overlong strand of static grass.The whole crew together; 
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Jan 16, 2022 22:45
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Crosspost: Here's a WIP of an Iron Warriors kitbash I'm working on. 
The Demilich fucked around with this message at 02:11 on May 22, 2022 |
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Jan 17, 2022 08:35
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Also posting here: my latest batch of 40k Plague Marines
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Jan 17, 2022 15:42
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Under 15 posted:Dropping in here, I just finished up a major project for an upcoming tournament: Really love these bold colors. Very clean and everything reads so clearly!
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Jan 17, 2022 16:50
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Finished a lizzer over the weekend. And a Plague Doctress from TTCombat's Carnevale line last week but the base took a while longer to get done. 
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Jan 17, 2022 17:30
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Getting back into painting after a long time not really doing any. Picked up some Combined Army for Infinity and this is the result so far, please ignore the awful photography, I'm a bad.     
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Jan 18, 2022 00:22
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Vaders Jester posted:Getting back into painting after a long time not really doing any. Picked up some Combined Army for Infinity and this is the result so far, please ignore the awful photography, I'm a bad. Cool color scheme and really nice work! Keep it up, I want to see more of these dudes!
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Jan 18, 2022 01:38
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Vaders Jester posted:Getting back into painting after a long time not really doing any. Picked up some Combined Army for Infinity and this is the result so far, please ignore the awful photography, I'm a bad. come poast m'lord
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Jan 18, 2022 02:51
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I painted my first space marine tonight   for this boy: 
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Jan 18, 2022 05:50
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I'd like opinions as I'm indecisive and have spent several months just sitting on my rear end with this project. This will be a long crosspost. I'll go over what I've been working on, ideas, inspirations, and then where to go from here. --- History I really like the old stories of the chapters before the Primarchs were found. One of my favorite chapters, like many others, are the Blood Angels. However, I especially like the lore from when they were known as the Revenant Legion. There's a brief history listed here: Blood Angels Lexicanum They tended to look like this:   Related to this, a while ago I decided to make a Flesh Eaters kill team. The primary reason is because, as mentioned, I really like the Revenant Legion lore and the Flesh Eaters kind of fit that in the current 40k setting. Flesh Eaters Lexicanum Currently the Flesh Eater color scheme is this:  Now the Flesh Eaters aren't a new chapter. In fact, one thing you'll notice about the Flesh Eaters is their initial look is rad as hell. The earliest reference on Lexicanum I found was from White Dwarf 98, which came out February 1988.   I love this style; Rogue Trader, Necromunda, 2nd/3rd edition art have a special place in my soul. But a couple problems developed. Initially I was going to just go pure old school and recreate the Flesh Eaters 1:1 for my project, however someone beat me to the finish line and loving nailed it better than I ever could lol What is to Be Done? This led me to reevaluating what I was going for, and ultimately I decided I needed to just do a new take on the Flesh Eaters because I really don't want to tread on ground someone else already nailed. I decided they needed to be both visually resplendent & barbaric. I want it to be apparent that the Legion had not only reverted to its pre-Sanguinius practices, but began glorifying them. There's a lot of things that can be mixed together to get this idea to work, and I had the following bits and pieces of lore/design to officially work with given the 3 sources of inspiration in general (old FE, new FE, and BA in general). The question is what ratio to put these ingredients, and what else to add:
There were things I wanted to consciously avoid however:
First Drafts Here's what I ended up creating: 10x Assault marines0 1x HQ unit 1x Sanguinary Priest 2x Terminators (one's going to be a Lamenter who joined up). General aesthetic was ornate armor, with units decked out in the bones of champions they've bested and eaten in combat. Colors: deep shiny red like wet gore. I used a Tamiya clear red on top of Vallejo liquid silver (alcohol version). I very much liked the look without any additional trim coloring on the pauldrons and chest insignias. For touch-ups I would still add the white helm stripe, and maybe a red/white checker pattern on some shoulder shields. Base: given the red, I figured a nice cool snow base was appropriate. Unique chapter kitbash aspects: Goliath bits and custom trophy racks bound to their armor by chain. Bits list
   Of course it was after I put everything together that a problem popped up. I found another Flesh Eaters kill team that had a similar vibe:  "....... gently caress!" So, I felt my only option was to begin experimenting with colored trim on the pauldrons, eagles, etc. And this is where I am stuck. Examples Here's my Dante equivalent chapter master.  I did a cheap color edit to get a feel for adding gold trim... I wasn't sold. The Corpsegrinder cult helm is also a stand in as I actually ran out of bare heads. I'm kind of torn on the current head. I think it looks cool, but I am unsure if it looks too Khornate in context (I mean he's covered in gold dipped demon trophies, why not have a skull head? I mean does that really look like a Khorne skull? I don't know anymore lol Here's another marine where I said gently caress it and basecoated the trim wirh Vallejo liquid gold.  It's all simple basecoats right now as everything is a work in progress, but looking at these minis with the gold, I'm not sure if I feel I made the right choice. I'm also incredibly critical of my own work though so I know I'm not to be trusted, hence this giant wall of text. Conclusions and Questions To be honest, I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm not sold on the gold despite my inner circle saying they like the current colors, so I'm looking for community consensus to set me straight. Please help me out and give me your opinions. Some things I've been thinking about :
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Jan 18, 2022 06:53
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I'm doing some Dark Elves and this is still very much a work in progress, but I'm proud of how they're turning out:
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Jan 18, 2022 08:09
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Realized that I had the MTO sister lying around. She was a bit overprimed but it worked out ok. 
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Jan 18, 2022 12:19
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Winklebottom posted:Realized that I had the MTO sister lying around. She was a bit overprimed but it worked out ok. drat, that skintone is lovely.
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Jan 18, 2022 14:20
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hooman posted:drat, that skintone is lovely. Thanks, it's Vallejo Beige Red base and then mixing up to Vallejo Light Flesh. Very nice colors to work with.
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Jan 18, 2022 16:48
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The Demilich posted:Here's another marine where I said gently caress it and basecoated the trim wirh Vallejo liquid gold. I do like the gold on this and can't think of anything better (silver is my first thought), but this pic in particular reminds me of the reverse wash technique. In gunpla the poster child is the filigree on the Sinanju, which is usually gold:  This modeler went silver in case you were curious. Anyway you paint the metal basecoat, then black enamel over it, then use a pointy Q tip etc to wipe off the black with lighter fluid. I think that might help with the wings and pauldron etchings. Idk how practical that would be at mini scale but just throwing ideas out there!
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Jan 18, 2022 17:03
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsHGUAAi420 I suppose most of this thread probably already subscribes to Goobertown, but he posted a very thorough demo / review of the complete Army Painter Speed Paint starter box. Previously I only found videos showcasing a more limited selection of Speed Paint colors.
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Jan 18, 2022 17:22
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So I got some model color metallics and of course they're amazing, but I find them to be so damned thin, if I'm doing detail work and want something less runny what would folks suggest?
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Jan 18, 2022 17:38
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Harvey Mantaco posted:So I got some model color metallics and of course they're amazing, but I find them to be so damned thin, if I'm doing detail work and want something less runny what would folks suggest? I hear proacryl metals are really good but I haven't tried them myself, and Scale75 are pretty decent but not that opaque.
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Jan 18, 2022 18:07
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Scale75 metallics are good (except for the silvers) imo. Victorian brass and most of their bronze/golds are wonderful. Dark star makes excellent metallics, and pro acryl as mentioned above. If you’re really stuck, the GW metallics in white top bottles are actually very good for coverage- iron hands silver I think it’s called. The mica is still quite large like all GW paints, but it’s arguably quite good for a base layer.
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Jan 18, 2022 21:08
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Also another trick I've learned when working with Vallejo metal color on fine details is to wick a little bit of the moisture away on the brush once I load it with paint. Kinda like what people do when glazing. The paint behaves a little better that way.
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Jan 18, 2022 21:12
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I've found them to be quite thin, but that's a bonus for me because they still have amazing coverage. For me it's just a matter of not having globs of paint on the brush, but drying off the the side of the bristles on the palette after dipping the brush in the paint. The ones I have don't run anywhere, unless I'm putting too much paint on anyway.
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Jan 18, 2022 21:37
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Harvey Mantaco posted:So I got some model color metallics and of course they're amazing, but I find them to be so damned thin, if I'm doing detail work and want something less runny what would folks suggest? Do you mean Vallejo Metal Color or Vallejo Model Color, annoying they are two very very different products. If it's the former they are not runny, you're just putting too much paint on your brush. They cover far better than most metallics and you don't need to load up your brush like you would with others.
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Jan 18, 2022 21:55
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Cinara posted:Do you mean Vallejo Metal Color or Vallejo Model Color, annoying they are two very very different products. If it's the former they are not runny, you're just putting too much paint on your brush. They cover far better than most metallics and you don't need to load up your brush like you would with others. Yeah the former, thanks.
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Jan 18, 2022 22:10
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Under 15 posted:Dropping in here, I just finished up a major project for an upcoming tournament: Oooh, I really like the cell-shaded style you've done with these!
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Jan 18, 2022 23:16
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Yeast posted:Scale75 metallics are good (except for the silvers) imo. Victorian brass and most of their bronze/golds are wonderful. While GW metallics can be a little hit-and-miss, I have to say I love Iron Warriors for a dark metallic. It’s a great paint to work with.
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Jan 19, 2022 00:40
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The best trick I ever learned for making metallics look as good as possible was: Do a black (preferably gloss black) undercoat under anything you want silver, and do a brown undercoat under anything you want gold/copper/bronze. Makes a world of difference, especially if your metallic has poor coverage.
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Jan 19, 2022 00:53
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TotalHell posted:While GW metallics can be a little hit-and-miss, I have to say I love Iron Warriors for a dark metallic. It’s a great paint to work with. Ah yes Iron Warriors, sorry! Its quite a good base dark silver. I'd sworn off GW metallics, but for for army painting, it's a really solid colour.
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Jan 19, 2022 01:35
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Aranan posted:This is great to hear, thank you for sharing. I've actually had a tab open for Garfy's get-a-grip and one for the Game Envy Hobby Holder for over a week now debating picking either of them up. Alright, finally got the GameEnvy holder and some accessories in. Here's some more thoughts:
I also got their mini, which was cool, I need to figure out how to glue the metal together, this being my first white metal mini, I'm assuming just superglue or something. Doesn't come with a base, which is a little disappointing, but, I have a pile of bases now, perhaps I can do something cool with it. Basically, if I had gone in the past, I probably would have just bought the hobby holder and the ergo grip, maybe the small stability bar. Ignore all the other add-ons, personally. The large stability bar is on the fringe of not being needed for me and/or also being too long. I like the handle #2 more than #3, if that matters. The cap and cork stand is also a neat idea but kind of dumb to me, especially considering how much space it can take up. Also their kickstarter/website says some weird poo poo like: "Pin your miniatures? No problem! The center hole of the Hobby Holder is perfectly sized to press fit standard wine corks or any 20mm cork. Just push them in, place in the pinned miniature and get painting! Done with the cork? Insert a paintbrush through the middle hole in the bottom of your Hobby Holder." Does cork fit? Well, technically. You can have it fit flush if you take a hobby saw and cut your wine cork in 7mm thick slices I guess. As for the paintbrush take uh, absolutely zero of my paint brushes fits through that tiny-rear end hole. I guess use a few paperclips, the hole is only around 4-5mm wide. Honestly, so far, my favorite between this, Garfy's Get A Grip, and the GW v2/XL v1 holders, is still the GW holder. You can routinely get them around $13 online, which means they're still cheaper than either option, grumbling about GW aside. I haven't really touched the RGG holder, but it looks interesting. $16.50 before shipping still makes it potentially as expensive, but I do like the "rotate mini with one hand aspect" which you can do with all the handles....kind of. Of course, you can go with holding the mini directly, or a pill bottle, or whatever, but you're getting it for a more ergonomic means of doing so, and besides some quibbles I have with the GW one (the big rear end clamp corners, gw official product, if the spring goes, you probably have to buy a whole new one) these alternatives will go out of print way before GW will, so you can get a new one in 5-10 years or whenever you need one. Just....don't go overboard like this guy:  
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Jan 19, 2022 02:46
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for another molded plastic "threaded base" or unscrew the cap and unscrew the threaded base in order. The only thing hotswap here is the bottlecap.