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Krakkles posted:Can you fab up a spacer to push it down? You'd basically just need a piece of metal or plastic (could probably get away with wood, too, but I wouldn't recommend it) that's got holes where the bolts and where the wire go. Ha, yeah, trunk was definitely open. Adding a spacer is probably the easiest thing at this point, but...there's no bolts on this thing. It just clips in, so it would be really, really hard to fabricate I think. I'm going to search around some more..I think my backup plan is buy yet another camera, but this time a license plate frame one, and hope I don't run into more problems. It was cool using it just now backing out of my parking spot though.
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Sep 13, 2021 23:51
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Alright, so I think this'll be the last update, unless anyone has some other camera/bracket suggestions without having to drill my car. I got the camera out and moved the screws a bit lower, I had to drill out some of the plastic but no big deal. I initially got part of a pool noodle to make some space and keep the camera stiff, but found that an expired credit card works better: I sharpied the edge black but you can't see it anyway. It's fairly snug, and works slightly better than before. I have about 15% of the screen blocked by my trim instead of 50%, which is not perfect, but I'll take it. The only other option I have is to re-install the other camera by drilling into the body, but  and I'd rather not have a random hole on the car. I feel like I'll regret it at some point.
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Sep 14, 2021 17:00
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Ok, I lied. One more update, but it's a good one. I found a business card holder made of just the right thickness of metal and cut it up with tin snips. It cost me a dollar and the smallest sheet of metal from Home Depot is like $8, so.. One broken drill bit, 20 minutes of cursing, and ample amounts of electrical tape later:   gently caress yeah:  It covers the registration sticker only slightly, but a cop would have to have a really, really bad effin day to pull me over for that. I'm happy now. Now I have to figure out what to do with this extra camera..I'll have to tackle my wife's car at some point so I'll probably just use it for that.
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Sep 14, 2021 20:03
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The camera I installed in the Insight was similar to that, yes. The bit where the two cables split off isn’t a connector? It was on mine - the 4-pin that you mention. Single cable to connector, connector, then the cable splits out to RCA and power connections. Regarding the trim - no idea. The Insight’s isn’t as recessed, so it wasn’t an issue. Is it still usable when the hatch is closed? Put something, say, 6 feet behind the car and see if you can still see it. Otherwise, yeah, different camera mount, maybe. Edit: I see you modified it. I missed those posts somehow. I just looked, and the one I got has a slightly different mounting location for the camera, so it sticks out like you made your do, though not as much. It also shifts it to one side to get it a little closer to center, which is nice. It also just replaces the lease, rather than the entire light: https://www.ebay.com/itm/170-Rear-V...1-127632-2357-0 Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Sep 14, 2021 |
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Sep 14, 2021 21:32
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Darchangel posted:The camera I installed in the Insight was similar to that, yes. The bit where the two cables split off isn’t a connector? It was on mine - the 4-pin that you mention. Single cable to connector, connector, then the cable splits out to RCA and power connections. NGL when someone recommends a new camera my heart skips a beat because part of me thinks I missed something in my research. Thanks for the link, I saw that one before but I think my camera goes down an extra 2 inches. Any less and I get blocked by the trim. If I really wanted to do this correctly, I'd probably use the Natika camera and drill the trim to get the best view. I was an idiot and ripped out the cord yesterday though (it uses that mini DIN thing, and the current one uses the traditional RCA and red power cable), so I'd have to re-run wiring, a third time. I still need to get the current cable inside the headliner which I'm super lazy to do.. At this point I'm calling it quits on the wiring. Gonna clean it up and call it a day. I've been having a hell of a time trying to find where I put those trim remover tools, but once I do I'm going to button everything up.
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Sep 14, 2021 22:57
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Has anyone had any experience with wireless dongles for Android auto? I'm tired of losing connection with hard road bumps.
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Sep 22, 2021 12:22
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2017 Subaru Outback. with 7" LCD Radio; without Harman Kardon Audio System. I want to put a carplay head unit in this car. I would like to keep the steering wheel controls and the rearview camera. Can I just order something off crutchfield and select ready harness, then install it myself? Do I care about wireless carplay? Any particular recommendations? I have installed a head unit off crutchfield that I had to wire up myself, years ago, but there was no touchscreen on that.
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Nov 5, 2021 03:00
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2015 WRX here. I integrated the Metra Axxess AWSC-1 into my head unit which retained steering wheel controls. The rear view camera still uses the default auxillary screen where the boost gauge is displayed. I made a big ol adapter harness for everything. Assuming your situation is similar I can dump the wiring diagram here tomorrow evening.
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Nov 5, 2021 03:17
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I don't have a Subaru but for my Honda Pilot I also used the AWSC-1. It works, except for the volume down button.. It's intermittent, with most of the time not working. I tried plugging in a micro USB cable to re-program it or get a new firmware, but it fried the drat thing. Like a fool I bought a second one instead of something else. You might have better luck than I.
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Nov 5, 2021 05:10
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im looking for a cheap carplay double din unit with rear backup camera, willing to spend 300 for the unit? dont really care for about audio quality cause it's going into a loving honda element but i dont want to deal with a buggy piece of poo poo unit. oh and its gotta have a knob or physical buttons for the volume
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Nov 5, 2021 06:36
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BraveUlysses posted:im looking for a cheap carplay double din unit with rear backup camera, willing to spend 300 for the unit? dont really care for about audio quality cause it's going into a loving honda element but i dont want to deal with a buggy piece of poo poo unit. I still have a new in box unit at my house that I could ship for under $300... https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3968342&pagenumber=1&perpage=40 Has volume buttons, but they are tiny.
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Nov 5, 2021 13:49
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Its been just sitting in my garage, so I wanna get rid of it if anyone else is interested. $150 + shipping Sold! Sorry to any later offers. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Nov 6, 2021 |
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Nov 5, 2021 19:35
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^^^I don't mind, I could have gotten rid of it years ago if I got off my rear end.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:46
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Is there any reason I can’t use the harness speaker wires from a head unit on a 2000 Mustang GT with the Mach 460 nonsense? The current adapter I have is for RCA cables into a specific connector for the body side, but I’m putting a reaaaaally cheap head unit in the car, and it doesn’t have enough RCA outputs, although it does have the correct number of wires in the harness. I guess I’m not super clear on what is or isn’t a high level or speaker level or whatever and I’m worried the head unit is going to pump too much power in to the speakers. Or not enough. Edit: Looks like there's two RCA ports on the headunit (L+R) and four on adapter/bodyside (FL,FR,RL,RR). RCA splitter seems like the most straightforward, reversible if the next owner doesn't like it, fix. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Nov 5, 2021 |
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Nov 5, 2021 20:51
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Wasabi the J posted:I have a XAV-AX100 with no accessories I could let go for less than that not to undercut the above poster.
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Nov 6, 2021 22:10
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too late I already got it 
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Nov 7, 2021 01:25
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Anybody have recommendations for 5.25” speakers? I want to replace the (presumably stock) ones in my FJ62, need to keep the top-mount depth pretty shallow. Would like to keep the budget around ~$100. Right now I’m looking at these Kicker 47KSC504: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647KSC50/Kicker-47KSC504.html
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Nov 25, 2021 21:25
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I used these in 6.5” and love them Infinity Reference 5032CFX 5-1/4" 2-Way Car Speakers - Pair,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8Q4CZL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CPVVT2V8FGF5EK0HFV34 You mentioned a 60 series, have you looked on ih8mud to see how hard it is to fit bigger speakers? I have an 80 series, which takes 5.25 up front. With a bit of metal work I fit the 6.5” I mentioned above. Can’t reuse stock grills so maybe that’s why.
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Nov 29, 2021 23:51
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I've got Rockford Fosgates in my Miata They're the only two speakers in a convertible car which pretty much means they're on near full volume duty all the time. Rockford Fosgate P152 Punch 5.25" 2-Way Full Range Speaker (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P85IZI/
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Nov 30, 2021 00:19
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Krakkles posted:Edit: Looks like there's two RCA ports on the headunit (L+R) and four on adapter/bodyside (FL,FR,RL,RR). RCA splitter seems like the most straightforward, reversible if the next owner doesn't like it, fix. Also, this really cheap headunit is ... shockingly good. The only points I'd really put against it are the RCA ports (only has L+R / two ports) and it does have a pretty cheap feel to it, but it sounds fine, it supports Carplay well, the UI is reasonably clear and easy to work with, installing it was just like any other headunit I've ever installed.
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Nov 30, 2021 00:24
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Krakkles posted:
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Nov 30, 2021 16:30
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Nocheez posted:My buddy just bought a 2010 Tundra and wants to replace the radio with something that supports Carplay and a backup camera. I sent this along to him, but do you have any recommendations on a camera or other thoughts? In terms of visual quality, I can't say I've seen any difference between the three different cameras I've used - they're all basically cheap old webcam quality, and that's fine for the purpose. Edit: Oh, and they had the headunit for ~$6 less on amazon outlet. Only issue was that it didn't include the manual, but they quickly sent along a PDF when I contacted the seller. Worth a look!
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Nov 30, 2021 17:24
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Thanks for the information! This is much cheaper than some head units he was looking at, and he can use all the extra $$$ he can keep in his pocket.
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Nov 30, 2021 17:54
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I was needing a new 4-channel and didn't want to spend a lot of money, so after a bunch of searching I landed on a Skar Audio RP-150.4AB. Supposedly does 150x4 @4ohms on an amp dyno, and I'd say that's accurate. It has pretty decent wiring terminals that fit oversize 4 gauge power and 8 gauge everything else with 3mm and 2.5mm hex set screws (that aren't hardened, but much better than Philips screws). Inputs and power seem to be isolated properly so no whining or spaceship noises. The caps are kind of poo poo and the transistors are kind of old, but spec'd decently. The RCA connectors are crap like 95% of consumer electronics, but I disconnected them at least once without pulling the ground out so passable I guess. It has a 120mm fan which, while not loud, runs constantly while the amp is on. I have a passthrough hole in my back seat and I can hear it a little bit, but only when the engine isn't running. For $187, I don't think you'll find a better deal, unless this thing blows up next week.
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Dec 23, 2021 04:28
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This is really weird, I was driving the '94 SVX I mentioned before where the tape adapter was popping and buzzing a lot, but I was down on the plains and it was working just fine. Then as soon as I started going up the mountain in a canyon/pass it started doing the same popping/buzzing thing, frequently sounding like speakers used to in the '00s when a text was coming in on someone's phone, if anyone remembers that noise. What could possibly be causing that based on location? I was driving for an hour to hour and a half before it started, so it's not like it started when the car warmed up or anything. I had hoped initially it was bad grounds or something that I could fix with my trusty $5 HF soldering iron but I can't see what would cause it to work just fine on the plains but completely fail once up in the mountains. Unless there's something that would cause a difference in function between 5000 feet elevation and 7-8000 feet?
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Dec 23, 2021 05:06
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You might have just roamed into an area where GSM was the only thing available. Maybe try turning off your phone if it happens again and see if it goes away.
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Dec 24, 2021 03:22
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I mean the issue there is my phone is my music device, but I guess I could put it on do not disturb and play music I have downloaded and see if that helps.
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Dec 24, 2021 06:48
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Oh yeah, I totally agree just turning your phone off is not a solution. If there's some way to disable GSM or at least bump its priority down on your phone that should take care of it. Otherwise I don't think there's really anything else you can do short of redesigning your head unit. E: This is assuming the interference comes through your speakers at the same volume regardless of what source or level your head unit is on. If it changes with deck volume or source, then it's probably just coming through the tape adapter. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Dec 24, 2021 |
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Dec 24, 2021 20:06
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Head unit availability has been (like everything else) poor this year. Does anyone happen to know if Sony, Pioneer, and friends have re-engineered their models to use parts with better availability (if such parts exist)? I'd like to get something like the Sony DSX-GS900 I put in my CR-V last year for my pickup, but they've been out of stock forever.
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Jan 5, 2022 20:06
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PBCrunch posted:I'd like to get something like the Sony DSX-GS900 I put in my CR-V last year for my pickup, but they've been out of stock forever.  E: Maybe check this out? Seems to be in-stock, just as functional, and quite a bit cheaper. https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Digital+Media+Receivers/MVH-S622BS EE: Ok I'm not sure about that Amazon store lol good luck idk Lowclock fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jan 5, 2022 |
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Jan 5, 2022 23:38
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Lowclock posted:According to my personal car audio boy at Crutchfield, it's discontinued.
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Jan 6, 2022 18:28
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Yeah, I've always thought Sony's higher-powered decks were great if you don't want to add an amp. Sadly, Sony only ever seems to put that amp in the weirdest stuff, like a mid range double din with a 9 segment display. All the other manufacturers just offer external amp bricks which are still pretty big, expensive, and missing the point. I would probably just get whatever deck you want and then add a small class-D amp if you want more power. They come small enough these days you could stick it in the dash or under a seat in most cars if space is at a premium. It will free up your deck selection a ton, give you some more power, and should end up < $100 more in the end.
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Jan 7, 2022 03:37
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Pardon my dumb question if it has been answered previously. I tried to do a search about it and have not come up with big hits so here it goes. I have a 2012 Ford Explorer Limited which has the MyFordTouch / Sync2 platform. The control module seems to have gone to poo poo on it and if it is too cold, too hot, too Wednesday or whatever, it will either turn off entirely, or reboot itself. It will stop responding and not let you turn on/off seat heaters, AC to the back of the car, etc, turn off Christmas music, use the GPS at all etc. This has just started since June and has become progressively worse. Replacement seems to be the only option. So I found a couple of things. If I get another one of the same, it will probably develop the same issues. If i repalce with a Sync3 system it "should be" basically a drop in replacement assuming it comes pre-programmed for my VIN. So does someone with more insight and experience see any glitches? I found what looks like basically the same thing in two places for two prices. This one on amazon for $699 and This one from Ebay for $515 Aside from almost $200 in price, is there really a difference? Has anyone done this swap before in here? Ive seen youtube videos of it, but am still wary.
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Jan 7, 2022 20:23
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otter posted:Pardon my dumb question if it has been answered previously. The first link includes an aftermarket wireless CarPlay module, that's why it's more. Generally you can piece it together yourself with OEM parts for cheaper (that's how it is with Mustangs anyway) and you can code it yourself with forscan. I'd be amazed if you couldn't find a detailed write up with OEM part numbers on some explorer forum.
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Jan 8, 2022 03:36
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Aftermarket Stereo Battery Drain Question! Hey folks - 2008 Honda Civic LX Upgraded the dash with a Scosche Double Din dash and put in an ATOTO F7 EX (the EX has wireless carplay and android auto) stereo. I also have an ATOTO 720p reverse cam that I'm going to install so I went ahead and ran the wires to the unit since I had everything out. The connectors the cam connects to the stereo are: RC In (yellow video) Red ACC power wire to ACC wire on back of unit (that is also connected to ACC wire on stereo adapter - so this one has 3 wires into one screw nut) And then a pink trigger wire to the head unit (goes from reverse light power wire to ATOTO unit - just to say "hey we're in reverse! show the cam!") I haven't installed the cam yet (weather) but will soon. SO these cables are just hanging out. The rest of the install went fine. Powered up and got everything going and yay great. Except two things: Back Right speaker doesn't work (I've checked the connection - the right wires are connected but maybe they contact sucks?) Battery drained over night. Quick searches is a pretty obvious problem - parasitic battery draw. I have a multimeter - but have never used it. Is there a quick way to see which wire is pulling the power on my head unit? I've watched a lot of "find the battery drain" videos but they're always starting from "have no idea what it is?" and then go into stuff I might not need. I'm like 99.9% sure it's the radio of course, so I didn't know if there's a way for me to identify specifically which part of the radio is doing it with the multimeter. Thanks! EDIT: One addendum. Here's the car behavior. Lights work fine and even after a few days I can power it on and listen to the radio. But it won't crank until I jump it off with my wife's car. Seems like if the battery was draining hard enough to not crank overnight, after a few more days there'd be *no* battery power. But obviously I can be wrong about that given my novice experience. BonoMan fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 21:19
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BonoMan posted:3 wires into one screw nut) Hold up. How did you attach these wires?
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Jan 20, 2022 21:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:Hold up. How did you attach these wires? I'm on my phone at the moment but we have: Red acc wire from OEM adapter Red acc wire from new headset Red acc wire from reverse cam I have them all twisted together.  
BonoMan fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 21:45
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Two issues here, one that I'm certain of and one that I'm not. Certain: wire nuts are garbage for automotive use and you need to redo all of that, it is absolutely why you are having audio issues with one speaker and could be contributing to other problems. You need to either use crimped connections, or solder with heatshrink. Debate between the two borders on religious zealotry but both are satisfactory your car's existing wiring is almost 100% crimped, only sinners solder Uncertain but probably not the issue for your drain: should the camera have accessory power at all times, or only when the car is in reverse? I've never actually installed a reverse camera.
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Jan 20, 2022 22:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:Two issues here, one that I'm certain of and one that I'm not. Thanks! I've pulled it all out and rewiring now with crimping. As for the camera. This model has the ability for live view... To be turned on while driving. I'm guessing that's the accessory power need.
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Jan 20, 2022 22:19
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If your issues with the rear speaker continue, a 9V battery (really just about any type of battery) can be a good diagnostic tool. Disconnect the wires for the speaker in question from your head unit. Connect the wires going toward the speaker to the battery. The speaker should make a popping sound when you connect it. Do not leave it connected for a long time, but repeat popping it as needed. You can also use this pop test to verify that your wiring polarity is correct. The speaker cone will move out (away from the basket and magnet) if you have connected the positive speaker lead to the positive terminal on the battery. The speaker cone will travel in (toward the basket and magnet) if you have it connected backwards. Connecting the camera to the accessory wire shouldn't have anything to do with the battery drain. The accessory circuit shouldn't be powered when the car isn't running. Does the radio turn off (or go into suspend or whatever) when you turn the car off? Does it remember the time and radio presets and all that when you power it back up? Perhaps the accessory and constant power wires are reversed. I don't think you're going to resolve the "which part of the radio" question without taking it apart. There is one power wire that the radio can draw from (typically the yellow one) when the accessory power is turned off. You aren't going to get any more fine-grained than that with a multimeter. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 23:15
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