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BonoMan posted:Aftermarket Stereo Battery Drain Question! How old is the battery? You could be chasing your tail when its just a coincidence and the battery is spanked.
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Jan 21, 2022 00:15
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Could be. It's prob a few years old. Small update. The back right speaker is prob just busted. Still doesn't work. I did crimp hookups for everything and t spliced that camera acc hookup into it. Gonna see if I can go ahead and run the camera wires and at least hook it up to see if it works
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Jan 21, 2022 00:54
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BonoMan posted:t spliced Noooooooo
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Jan 21, 2022 01:23
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I got an Android auto head unit with a backup camera and I would like to install it in my 2003 Tacoma but I am wondering if there is a better way to tap into the harness besides the vampire taps that crutch field supplied. Are they terrible?
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Jan 21, 2022 01:35
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Kick-Puncher posted:I got an Android auto head unit with a backup camera and I would like to install it in my 2003 Tacoma but I am wondering if there is a better way to tap into the harness besides the vampire taps that crutch field supplied. Are they terrible? The posi tap?
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Jan 21, 2022 02:04
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opengl128 posted:Noooooooo Ok so what are my options here? Besides soldering? Edit: the camera works fine with the T Tap so I'm gonna leave it BonoMan fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jan 21, 2022 |
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Jan 21, 2022 02:05
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You can get three wires into a butt crimp easily. Worst case if they're on the large side already is you jump up to the next size crimp. Vampire / T-taps can work but if you ever have a problem with power there, that's the first thing I'd check.
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Jan 21, 2022 06:14
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Gotcha. I only had some 18 gauge crimps and they wouldn't fit but I did have some t taps that came with some other kit so that's why I used those. Luckily though it's the most accessible part so I can easily replace if it gets flaky. I'm guessing Crutchfield has some stock in Posi Taps/Posi Locks because they pimp them hard in every video. But they are way too expensive. Like $10 for a 5 pack
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Jan 21, 2022 14:48
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So battery dead again this morning. No surprise I guess. So far I have tested the alternator and it's fine. Charging battery now. Will test parasitic draw and battery health next. Then fuses. Then just pushing my car off a quarry cliff.
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Jan 21, 2022 17:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:your car's existing wiring is almost 100% crimped, only sinners solder Factory wires are crimped because crimping is easy for machines and BonoMan posted:Small update. The back right speaker is prob just busted. Still doesn't work. Swap the speakers to check. BonoMan posted:So battery dead again this morning. No surprise I guess. Unplug the harness from the radio and see if the issue goes away. Just live without a radio a few days, like your primitive ancestors.
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Jan 21, 2022 18:23
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Darchangel posted:
Yeah this is my next step.
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Jan 21, 2022 18:32
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NASA says to crimp!
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Jan 21, 2022 19:13
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RIP Paul Walker posted:NASA says to crimp! You trust a governmental agency to do things right? I kid. Crimping is fine if done properly. I find soldering to be neater and take less space. Edit: FWIW, I use soldering for splices. End terminals I usually use crimps.
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Jan 21, 2022 19:25
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Ok unplugged and recharging it again. I left it charging for about 2 hours. Read 14.5 while running (thanks alternator) and then 12.6 when I turned it off. I checked for a parasitic draw and was getting a reading of 300-800 milliamps that would bounce all around that range. Within minutes of checking draw, reconnecting and restarting... couldn't crank. *Minutes* Read the battery - it was reading about 12.4 steady. I've unplugged the radio and am recharging (via running the car). I mean even if there *is* a parasitic draw, surely it wouldn't draw that fast right? Especially when it wasn't even getting over an amp? I saw one weird issue with body ground being bad and engine couldn't crank. But if I do jump the car off, run it for a while, shut it down and immediately restart... it cranks. Just not for if I leave it longer than 5-10 minutes.
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Jan 21, 2022 20:23
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I trust NASA engineers to research and document stuff like this :-) https://nepp.nasa.gov/files/27631/NSTD87394A.pdf My trust in the rest of the apparatus that ensures it gets done is ever so slightly lower. Actually… were you the one that initially linked this / as similar paper? I remember I learned about it from someone here.
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Jan 21, 2022 20:25
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BonoMan posted:Ok unplugged and recharging it again. Your battery is toast it sounds like. Tho two hours of charging isn’t much, leave it overnight. Or take it to autozone for their free fast charging / battery testing service.
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Jan 21, 2022 20:26
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Yeah my vote is still bad battery. Also you can't check parasitic draw immediately, you need to give the modules some time to go to sleep. (don't open any doors or touch the ignition etc) Can take 5-15 minutes or more depending on the car.
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Jan 21, 2022 20:37
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RIP Paul Walker posted:I trust NASA engineers to research and document stuff like this :-) https://nepp.nasa.gov/files/27631/NSTD87394A.pdf I didn’t, but pretty sure someone here did last time we fought about it. Edit: while you’re following NASA guidelines for your mission critical spaceship of an automobile, you should also remember to do all your wiring with Teflon jacketed white wire, with circuit number markers, rather than that inferior multicolor stuff, and have all your parts serialized with appropriate paperwork. I’m being facetious Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jan 21, 2022 |
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Jan 21, 2022 20:42
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Thirding bad battery. While I agree that it wasn't a complete parasitic draw test, if the peak load was 800mA and it only took a matter of minutes to go from "can crank" to "can't crank", that battery is hosed and I'm amazed it can crank in the first place.
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Jan 21, 2022 20:44
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Are you using an in-line ammeter between the positive post and the cable? You cannot crank during this as it will probably nuke your fuse 800mA is a lot of draw with the key off. Start pulling fuses one by one until you notice which circuit has the largest draw. Figure out what is on that circuit by unplugging things one at a time. Older cars see about 50mA with key off, and last I checked (2000s) over 250mA is too much for a battery to last. Your battery may not be ideal, but it's unlikely that it is causing this problem, as it started after you hosed with the wiring. Edit: and make sure you turn off the interior lights first. Might need to hold the door switch closed, or ground it if it's easy enough to pull out. Nocheez fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jan 21, 2022 |
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Jan 21, 2022 20:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:Thirding bad battery. While I agree that it wasn't a complete parasitic draw test, if the peak load was 800mA and it only took a matter of minutes to go from "can crank" to "can't crank", that battery is hosed and I'm amazed it can crank in the first place. Thanks for all the responses (just not quoting them all). So I'm pretty sure it's the battery too. I'm also trying to do this all out in the freezing cold (it's about to snow) and I'm probably hurrying too fast. So if the battery is reading 12.4 at rest but won't crank... are we still sure it's the battery? Shouldn't 12.4 be enough to crank? I'm tired so I'm probably not thinking straight.
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Jan 21, 2022 20:56
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Nocheez posted:Are you using an in-line ammeter between the positive post and the cable? You cannot crank during this as it will probably nuke your fuse I have to redo my parasitic draw test because a.) I didn't wait enough for it to rest like a previous poster said and b.) I noticed a door was cracked so... gently caress me. (refer back to me being "tired and cold and trying to do this out in the freezing cold before the snow comes"). I'm taking a breather right now to reset my brain. Lol. It shouldn't be this hard! We also have three insane screaming kids in our house (two are mine and one is the neighbor's).
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Jan 21, 2022 20:58
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BonoMan posted:So if the battery is reading 12.4 at rest but won't crank... are we still sure it's the battery? Shouldn't 12.4 be enough to crank? I'm tired so I'm probably not thinking straight. Not necessarily. Ideally you'd see what voltage it stays at while cranking (or attempting to crank). I'd bet it's dipping deep into single digits under load. Cranking is a huge load on a battery, it's very common for batteries to fail in such a way where they can still deliver ~12V with light loads but fall on their face when trying to feed a starter motor.
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Jan 21, 2022 21:02
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This was my job like 20 years ago, so I'm a bit rusty but you're on the right track. Take a breather and tackle it with a fresh head. Bring a toy and "rubber ducky" the problem. Explaining it out loud can help you think through the problem rationally.
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Jan 21, 2022 21:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Not necessarily. Ideally you'd see what voltage it stays at while cranking (or attempting to crank). I'd bet it's dipping deep into single digits under load. Oh yeah I remember seeing this on a YT video and forgot to test it. I'll do it just to see what it says
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Jan 21, 2022 21:10
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Ok yeah with no stereo attached it reads 12.8.... Then I attempted to crank it and it dips to 5 lol.
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Jan 21, 2022 21:21
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That battery is ready for the ocean. The stereo install issues may or may not have anything to do with it, but you can't conclusively test anything else out with a bad battery.
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Jan 21, 2022 21:57
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New battery who dis? Of course my battery was 10 days out or warranty. Of course. Still got $90 off a new one. Car cranks fine. The snow has started so I'll plug the stereo and cam back up later. Now I drink.
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Jan 21, 2022 22:38
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Alright finalized the backup cam install, got everything hooked back up to the new battery... Now we wait.
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Jan 23, 2022 18:18
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So, if you guys had to choose one of the dozens of so of android units on amazon that freeze and reboot and can only update firmware if you upload it to the inside of an uncracked egg that sell between $50-$200, which would you go with? I got a big ol honkin car now and want something with a rear view cam, but I am also a big honkin cheapo. Heres a filtered amazon list. This ones pretty cool. Has a jet on it. 
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Jan 28, 2022 19:24
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Double din or single? The hikitty or some poo poo is apparently the players of $100 double din car play android poo poo.
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Jan 28, 2022 19:38
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everdave posted:Double din or single? The hikitty or some poo poo is apparently the players of $100 double din car play android poo poo.
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Jan 28, 2022 19:45
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Cage posted:I can do double, I just liked the single din lil jet. :3 The ATOTO F7 EX I got is pretty awesome once I got all my battery issues sorted out. Think I got it for $230?
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Jan 28, 2022 20:24
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Cage posted:So, if you guys had to choose one of the dozens of so of android units on amazon that freeze and reboot and can only update firmware if you upload it to the inside of an uncracked egg that sell between $50-$200, which would you go with? I got a big ol honkin car now and want something with a rear view cam, but I am also a big honkin cheapo. I have the Atoto 10 inch. It's awesome; all the Atoto units have Carplay and Android Auto, and a backup cam input. Atoto also is one of those companies who will try to bribe you for a better review so if you find that objectionable or exploitable, know that. They reached out to say they would exchange the 10" unit for the 7" I bought when I moaned in the review that I regretted my choice but couldn't exchange due to the sale being gone on both... Provided I changed my review to 5 stars. I'm easily bought. ATOTO F7 Double Din Car Stereo Android Auto & CarPlay 10.1 Inch Touchscreen in-Dash Navigation with Bluetooth, Mirror Link, HD Rearview Input, Quick Charge, USB/SD(Up to 2TB) F7G211SE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T8Z2MVP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_G7JEFY1X7KRW8NKXMK0M Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 22:03
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I've been shopping for one, in a perfect world I want a single DIN full face touchscreen with a volume knob (basically just what you posted) but they're all sub-$100 and that scares me. I'll pay more for reliability and there are a few brands that have at least some youtubers claiming they're decent. Joying and Atoto are two of those brands. I'm probably about to pull the trigger on this Joying 8.8" widescreen even though it has several negative reviews and is a lot more expensive than what you're talking about. I like it because it allows me to mount the face off center, and is narrow enough top to bottom that it shouldn't interfere with my vents or my sunglasses pocket. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K36DPLH/?coliid=I3FOE4TPB8AC9N&colid=FLM6O78WZFQ5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Incidentally I just built out the output side of the stereo in my daily driver wagon, I bought an Alpine 5 channel amp that's rated at 40w for each of the 4 door speakers and 300w at 2 ohm for the subwoofer, and it is unbelievably loud and clean. I paired it with Polk 6.5" components and Sundown Audio's cheapest 12" subwoofer and it is just ridiculous. Like yeah it's not popping my door frames or windshield loose but if I run it at full volume I will go deaf, and it has zero distortion until well beyond comfort. So for actual listening to music it's fantastic. I just hope my tint is dark enough to keep it from getting stolen. I did put the sub in with a plug on the wires so I can yank it out in a hurry if I know I'm going to be parking somewhere sketchy. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 23:52
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drat. DSP poo poo is so accessible and good now it's actually pretty insane. I bought a "restocked" (aka still sealed and brand new??) Dayton UMM-6 measurement mic for $45 and did some measurement in my car. I took those and plopped them into Room EQ Wizard to generate response and phase data to target, exported that into RePhase to generate linear phase filters, and then threw the resulting impulse response into Viper4Android's convolver. I spent some time listening to music while switching it off and on and I'm very impressed. It just sounds like music now instead of speakers crammed in the worst possible positions "trying" to play music. With some of those huge resonance peaks squished it's so much clearer and easier to pick out every instrument. I did the same with my PC, throwing the filters into Equalizer APO so they would apply to all sources, and laughed when it made my old Sony bookshelf speakers sound just like my car, in a good and very literal way. Then I used REW again to do impedance measurements on an old sub to model a proper enclosure for it for my PC, and boom, awesome. I guess I may be kind of late on the train here. I actually had a Pioneer Premier 920R car deck, and a Denon something home receiver that had time alignment and auto-eq poo poo built in. I spent so much time trying to get them to do what I wanted, but it always ended up sounding kind of poo poo, and you couldn't actually adjust the EQ yourself afterwards. The stuff you can do now is a whole different level, and it's basically free (besides the mic) with some caveats. You do lose a little overall output since you're going to be killing peaks and not boosting dips. Some of the software involved is kinda poo poo and not the most friendly your first time. Using this type of filtering does have a latency penalty, but depending on your goals it can be very low. I kept the taps low on my PC's filters and only gain like 7ms, so I can just apply it to everything, but if you want to do more complicated filters accurately, especially at lower frequencies, this could get much much longer. Lastly, you need something that can do it. Computers are fine, android works but it's jank as poo poo and might require being rooted, apple stuff is prob fine but I don't have any so idk. Sorry, this is much longer than I intended. If you haven't hosed with modern DSP/measurement stuff you really should. It's great. E: You CAN do offline convolving and apply it to all your music before hand if you don't have any other option, but that kind of sucks. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jan 30, 2022 |
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Jan 29, 2022 04:22
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For wiring in a Bluetooth adapter into a head unit, typically where should power be spliced? The switched 12V ignition power to the back of the head unit? The cigarette lighter power assuming it's switched 12V?
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Jan 30, 2022 19:41
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I'd go with whichever is more convenient to get at for where the adapter is being placed / how it's being connected to the head unit.
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Jan 30, 2022 20:19
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Lowclock posted:drat. DSP poo poo is so accessible and good now it's actually pretty insane. I bought a "restocked" (aka still sealed and brand new??) Dayton UMM-6 measurement mic for $45 and did some measurement in my car. I took those and plopped them into Room EQ Wizard to generate response and phase data to target, exported that into RePhase to generate linear phase filters, and then threw the resulting impulse response into Viper4Android's convolver. Almost empty-quoting this, because its so amazing. I have a MiniDSP with Dirac Live in my living room and what it does is nothing short of amazing.
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Jan 30, 2022 20:26
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McTinkerson posted:For wiring in a Bluetooth adapter into a head unit, typically where should power be spliced? The switched 12V ignition power to the back of the head unit? The cigarette lighter power assuming it's switched 12V? RIP Paul Walker posted:Almost empty-quoting this, because its so amazing. If someone asked me what kind of gear to get for their car I'd probably say a microphone. "Audiophiles" in shambles.
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Jan 30, 2022 21:49
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