Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Nocheez
Sep 5, 2000

Can you spare a little cheddar?
Nap Ghost
That's completely normal if you go ride trails for the first time in years. It will get better, but wear padded shorts for sure and try to give your undercarriage some rest.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



It takes about 2 weeks of pretty consistent riding for my undercarriage to not hurt if I hadn’t been riding. I’d do that before I bought a new saddle.

ought ten
Feb 6, 2004

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

It takes about 2 weeks of pretty consistent riding for my undercarriage to not hurt if I hadn’t been riding. I’d do that before I bought a new saddle.

That and while your body is getting used to it it’s going to hurt every time you get in the saddle, so don’t take that as a sign of a bad fit necessarily

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

eeenmachine posted:

Whoa that is one slack hardtail and an amazing looking bike 😍

Hardtails should have at least 65deg of HTA. Any less is simply absurd.
/
me, owner of a hardtail with 65 HTA*

*number subject to change if I get a slacker one

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

kimbo305 posted:

*number subject to change if I get a slacker one

:hmmyes:

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
There are definitely some saddles that will feel better to someone than others, but spending some time adjusting position and angle will probably help. Firstly make sure it is generally level and straight. Too far nosed down and you'll feel like you're sliding off it and will have to support yourself with your hands. Having to nose the saddle down to be comfortable is also a sign it's too high. Other signs it's too high are that you will feel like there's too much pressure from the front of the saddle, and possibly that you're sitting on it unevenly. Too low and you'll not get good leg extension and will be more back on the seat with your butt instead of sit bones.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum
I was just talking about local offpiste trail stuff the other day and now specialized released a short edit of the exact trails I was talking about!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivyCcty_M9o

Love living here, so many amazing trails.

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME
Registered for the Taho100 :toot:

might register for another shorter XC race in May but we'll see

ought ten
Feb 6, 2004

Aphex- posted:

They're basically unsanctioned/unofficial trails that the forestry commission are fine with as long as you don't make any dumb features on them.

Ah that makes sense. Everything around here is so small that I don’t think anyone develops trails like that so I’d never heard of it. Or I guess if they do they haven’t told me.

compressioncut
Sep 3, 2003

Eat knuckle, Fritz!
Okay I did a real ride on the El Roy and the bike is amazing. There's a certain southwest USA-based bike reviewer on YouTube who I would describe as "whiny" and had nothing but poor things to say about it*, but I have no idea what he's on about. It climbs janky tech a lot better than anything else I've had in memory, it has loads of BB and crank clearance (I had one pedal strike I can remember today vs. seemingly constantly on my Spartan), it does heart stopping rock rolls without breaking a sweat. I haven't been on a trail in like 18 months and I had more confidence today than when I stopped riding. It changes direction wonderfully, and I could just let it roll at all times.

The only weird surprise is that with the saddle up and pedaling flatter sections of trail, if it dips down at all I feel pitched over the bars, due to the very steep seat tube angle, which is only steeper with the fork sagged. Still very, very nice for seated climbing.

I did one more mod before this ride, I took off the fork compression lever and moved it clockwise one hex flat, which allows the you to open it up a little more. Apparently a common tweak to the Z1. I also pulled two volume spacers, as it comes with four installed.



Don't ask what's going on with the chain here. I don't know.



Trails were running amazing today, which shocked me as there was a foot of snow there last week.

*I think it's because he's 5'6" and even the smaller size is too big

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Any recommendations for bikes similar to the Canyon Stoic 4 or the Commencal Meta HT Essential? I have an idea of riding a hardtail for my local trail system that is mostly blue square level terrain.

paberu
Jun 23, 2013

n8r posted:

Any recommendations for bikes similar to the Canyon Stoic 4 or the Commencal Meta HT Essential? I have an idea of riding a hardtail for my local trail system that is mostly blue square level terrain.

I have a Kona Honzo that I use for about the same purpose. In the same price bracket too. When I was looking for hard tail the lower end deore was recommended as better groupset to the sram equivalent.

paberu fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jan 21, 2022

Taima
Dec 31, 2006

tfw you're peeing next to someone in the lineup and they don't know
Hey yall so I came into the thread somewhat recently with my 2013 Santa Cruz Bronson, with a 34 front shock:



It's becoming super clear that the bike needs new brakes so I was just wondering, what's the best bang for the buck all mountain brake system you can get these days? Bonus if it's easily available on like Amazon or something.

Also, my drivetrain is, I believe, 10 gears in back, 2 in front. It kind of looks like people usually only use one front ring these days though? I would be open to replacing the drivetrain if anyone could give bang for the buck recommendations...?

I understand these are super general questions, I hope I'm not being too vague. My bike is just in poo poo condition and frequently drops gears, and the brakes suck complete rear end, and since I basically use my bike for exercise nearly every day, I would love to get this poo poo sorted.

Price is not super sensitive, I'm more about the best components for the best price and I don't need anything visually fancy, just stuff that works great.


More pics if they might help:











Taima fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jan 22, 2022

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Have you tried new brake pads / bleeding the brakes?

Sounds like you might need a new chain/cassette as well.

Have you taken this to a shop? That might save a lot of time/effort.

Taima
Dec 31, 2006

tfw you're peeing next to someone in the lineup and they don't know

n8r posted:

Have you tried new brake pads / bleeding the brakes?

Sounds like you might need a new chain/cassette as well.

Have you taken this to a shop? That might save a lot of time/effort.

I've done nothing, I have no idea what to do... I did call a shop, but they honestly weren't super helpful. The guy was super cool but he was basically like "its really hard to find parts right now and the odds that we can find the parts you need specifically are really low" and sounded like he didn't really want to deal with it. Is this a common thing that shops do right now? I do understand that parts are hard to come by due to the pandemic supply chains.

Maybe that was just a bad shop and I should go elsewhere. But that's why I wanted to try you guys, you seem really knowledgable, and I ultimately wouldn't mind just buying the parts needed online and just taking them in to a shop to have them installed.

I'm also slightly worried that the shops will be far more expensive than online sources but maybe that's untrue?

Speak to me like I'm 5 years old because I basically am. I used to be WAY into the mountain biking life including maintenance but it's been over a decade and things have changed so much. My life completely changed in the meantime and I've lost all of those skills.

I'm totally ok just getting some new poo poo (basically whatever you guys want to recommend I would take it seriously). The disc brakes, for example, is one Elixir and one XT brake because one of my XT's was completely shot and a shop literally just gave me a used Elixir for free, lol.

I'm cool with getting new stuff.

e: the cassettes in particular feel to me like they're in really bad shape, lots of chipping.

Taima fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Jan 22, 2022

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Don't buy from Amazon.

Depending on budget, 1x drivetrain I'd rec SRAM NX or GX or Shimano deore. Youll probably need a fully new drivetrain to go to 1x as chain shifter cassette and rear mech will all be different than 2x iirc.

Sram guide or G2 R brakes. Or cheap Shimano 4-piston brakes like the deore ones? I think vital mtb did a Shimano deore groupset review recently and rated it very highly.

That's at least where I'd start looking into things, I have a mix of NX/GX on my bike with guide R brakes and it's all fine but not fancy.

pinarello dogman
Jun 17, 2013

Taima posted:

I've done nothing, I have no idea what to do... I did call a shop, but they honestly weren't super helpful. The guy was super cool but he was basically like "its really hard to find parts right now and the odds that we can find the parts you need specifically are really low" and sounded like he didn't really want to deal with it. Is this a common thing that shops do right now? I do understand that parts are hard to come by due to the pandemic supply chains.

Maybe that was just a bad shop and I should go elsewhere. But that's why I wanted to try you guys, you seem really knowledgable, and I ultimately wouldn't mind just buying the parts needed online and just taking them in to a shop to have them installed.

Some shops suck, but yes it is really hard for shops to get parts right now. My local shop had to buy chains online so they could have some to install on peoples bikes as the distributors couldn't get any.

Taima posted:

I'm also slightly worried that the shops will be far more expensive than online sources but maybe that's untrue?

Depends on the part. Often more expensive, sometimes a lot, but a fair bit of stuff you pay basically MSRP online anyway.

Taima posted:

I'm totally ok just getting some new poo poo (basically whatever you guys want to recommend I would take it seriously). The disc brakes, for example, is one Elixir and one XT brake because one of my XT's was completely shot and a shop literally just gave me a used Elixir for free, lol.

Elixirs are trash. The XTs are fine, but the master cylinders wear out and can't be rebuilt. You can get Magura MT5s insanely cheap from Germany, otherwise low end Shimano stuff is a good deal (Deore, etc).

Taima posted:

e: the cassettes in particular feel to me like they're in really bad shape, lots of chipping.

Cassettes can be weird shaped due to the shift profiles. Unless your chain is very stretched (shop should be able to measure it for you, or you can do it with calipers), or slips on the cassette with a new chain it should be fine.


meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

Don't buy from Amazon.

Depending on budget, 1x drivetrain I'd rec SRAM NX or GX or Shimano deore. Youll probably need a fully new drivetrain to go to 1x as chain shifter cassette and rear mech will all be different than 2x iirc.

Sram guide or G2 R brakes. Or cheap Shimano 4-piston brakes like the deore ones? I think vital mtb did a Shimano deore groupset review recently and rated it very highly.

That's at least where I'd start looking into things, I have a mix of NX/GX on my bike with guide R brakes and it's all fine but not fancy.

Agree Amazon sucks. Even apart from being a lovely company the amount of fake stuff on there is insane and the prices are bad.

You can go 1x on Shimano 10 speed just by replacing the chainring with a narrow-wide, your range is limited to about 11-42 though.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

n8r posted:

Any recommendations for bikes similar to the Canyon Stoic 4 or the Commencal Meta HT Essential? I have an idea of riding a hardtail for my local trail system that is mostly blue square level terrain.

Nukeproof Scout 29?

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




I'm not crazy about srams low end SX and NX groups personally. If it were me I'd probably try to find a Shimano XT 11 speed groupset since you won't have to change your rear hub driver (what the cassette rides on). If you can find a driver for your current hub then this is less of an issue but given the age I have doubts you'll find one. Newer stuff uses different standards and you'll still have pretty decent range (11-46 in back). Up front the chainring is up to you and your fitness and also terrain. 28-34 tooth probably though, from easiest to hardest. Find out what bottom bracket shell width and type (threaded or press fit) you have if you're swapping cranks with the group and make sure you get the right stuff that matches your frame. Chainrings can be a pain since fitting them is frame dependent and more teeth means larger diameter. Offset of them is important. Depends on your wheel usually (boost vs non boost-what yours most likely is).

For the brakes I'd go deore like people say. Some come pre bled so try and measure your brake lines and get some that are close. Otherwise shop will shorten them and have to rebleed. Not a huge deal but might save you some money. I've not swapped brakes so I don't know how big of a pain it is getting the right adapter to mount the calipers. See how big your rotors are too. Might be able to reuse them. 180mm+ is pretty standard.

This is still a decent chunk of money that could go to a newer bike. Something to think about.

Boogalo
Jul 8, 2012

Meep Meep




You can go cheaper and get sunrace drivetrain. A friend put that on his marlin as a conversion from 3x and he's been happy with it. It may not last as long even as NX but its also very cheap to replace.

Taima
Dec 31, 2006

tfw you're peeing next to someone in the lineup and they don't know

Thanks man I really appreciate the direction on this!

Homers BBBq
Mar 11, 2008

n8r posted:

Any recommendations for bikes similar to the Canyon Stoic 4 or the Commencal Meta HT Essential? I have an idea of riding a hardtail for my local trail system that is mostly blue square level terrain.

Sort of related... I posted earlier in this thread about the Specialized Fuse Comp 29, which I've been riding the last year and had a great time on. Its not quite as slack as the two bikes you mentioned but its great all around and I never felt uncomfortable on descents here in Massachusetts with it's slightly less slack but still pretty modern geometry.

I actually just threw it up for sale on PB as the one downside is its kind of expensive to come with a rockshox recon, which I think I've pushed to its limit in just one season. Been looking around for secondary market forks but my local specialized dealer has one fuse expert in stock in my size, so I'm debating making the switch. Only thing on my mind is how the 2021 Santa Cruz Chameleon had a pretty similar geometry to the fuse and the 2022 model just got an update to be more similar to the Canyon and Commencal you mentioned. It feels like everyone is trending in that direction for HTs...

Disclaimer: I'm still learning about all the different geo dimensions and how they affect things. Its kind of overwhelming which is why I'm considering just staying with the fuse. I rode a friends Commencal Meta HT AM Race and didn't like it as much as the fuse except for the fork (fox 36) which I loved... ha.

dema
Aug 13, 2006

n8r posted:

Have you taken this to a shop? That might save a lot of time/effort.

This. I bet a half decent shop can dramatically fix up that bike. Even if it’s just cleaning and adjusting.

eeenmachine
Feb 2, 2004

BUY MORE CRABS
This bike is so much fun, zero regrets.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Looks super cool and I had to Google it because the cool belt drive.

eeenmachine
Feb 2, 2004

BUY MORE CRABS

Suburban Dad posted:

Looks super cool and I had to Google it because the cool belt drive.

I was very surprised with the number of single speeds out on the trails today, at least 25% of the bikes we saw.

PolishPandaBear
Apr 10, 2009
A shop not too far away had an XXL Fuel Ex 8 in stock. It's the slightly less expensive GX version, compared to the XT, but I'm coming from 11 speed NX so it feel familiar. Decided to bling it out with some red Chesters that the shop had aswell. NBD was technically yesterday, but I took it out for the first time today.

I definitely feel more confident on it than I ever did on my Timberjack. The brakes are much better. I love having a 200mm rotor up front.

Still need to work on the suspension since it's my first full squish, and first real fork. And I'm thinking about getting a taller riser bar and some fatter grips, probably ESI Extra Chunkies.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc
Anyone here use their mountain bike for touring?

I'm getting a wheelset built and my intention is to have a light, smooth rolling tire on it.

Plan so far:
29er
Hope pro 4 hubs
Velocity blunt ss rims

I'm mulling over tire choice.

I looked at schwalbe thunder Burts, rene hurst fleecer or oracle ridge, or terravail sapwood or cannonball.

I don't have any experience with any of these and I'm basing my preference on weight and easy rolling.

My hard trail has done racing Ralphs and those are lovely but way too knobby for long mixed terrain bikepacking or pavement touring.

Anyone able to chip in with some experience here?

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
some donnelly stuff like the ush and mso, gravelking varieties. wtb nano, vittoria mezcal come to mind depending on how wide/knobby you want. The real flimsy/light semi slick XC tires might not have the durability you're looking for.

jamal fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jan 24, 2022

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Homers BBBq posted:

It feels like everyone is trending in that direction for HTs...

One thing I didn't appreciate on slacker hardtails is that the angle of the head tube is relatively dynamic compared to on full suspension.
Because of the rear of the bike doesn't compress and shift the frame downward from the rear, the front of the bike pitches forward much more.
For a 150mm Fox 36, 50mm of compression on a frame with 1200mm wheel base and 65deg HTA makes the effective HTA 67deg. And sag counts!
At 100mm of compression, the effective HTA is 69.5deg.

I dunno where you are in Mass, but I've been riding around the Fells on my Scout with 65deg static HTA, and it is somewhat more finicky to climb with, but I love the extra stability on descents. In any case, I appreciate the tradeoff in the terrain I see.

Spime Wrangler
Feb 23, 2003

Because we can.

I did a 240 mile gravel "race" last year on a 2.3 minion dhf front, semi slick rear.

Honestly it was a great combo.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
I do a lot of bikepacking events on mixed terrain and Maxxis Ikons are the absolute best all around tire I've found. For less aggressive terrain Teravail Sparwoods are amazing.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc
Thanks guys/gals.

I did a 100 mile gravel race on 2.3 minions last year as well. Great for the sandy bits, but if I'm doing more pavement, I didn't like them for that.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
I used to roll thunder burts on the stuntman, they were silly

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

e.pilot posted:

I used to roll thunder burts on the stuntman, they were silly

Silly light?
Silly handling?
Silly willy?

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
What do people think of the costco Intense?
https://www.costco.com/intense-951-xc-bike.product.100691780.html

Geo seems a little dated, but drat that's a good value.

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME

n8r posted:

What do people think of the costco Intense?
https://www.costco.com/intense-951-xc-bike.product.100691780.html

Geo seems a little dated, but drat that's a good value.

Geo seems kinda weird. 66.4 HTA but 72.5 STA

For a bike billed as a XC bike though I guess the less steep STA angle gives you a more comfortable pedaling position for longer flatter stuff

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
It’s an Intense Sniper T. I’ve pedaled one, and the STA absolutely feels that slack. Good deal, though. Especially these days.

Homers BBBq
Mar 11, 2008

kimbo305 posted:

One thing I didn't appreciate on slacker hardtails is that the angle of the head tube is relatively dynamic compared to on full suspension.
Because of the rear of the bike doesn't compress and shift the frame downward from the rear, the front of the bike pitches forward much more.
For a 150mm Fox 36, 50mm of compression on a frame with 1200mm wheel base and 65deg HTA makes the effective HTA 67deg. And sag counts!
At 100mm of compression, the effective HTA is 69.5deg.

I dunno where you are in Mass, but I've been riding around the Fells on my Scout with 65deg static HTA, and it is somewhat more finicky to climb with, but I love the extra stability on descents. In any case, I appreciate the tradeoff in the terrain I see.

This isn't just for slacker hardtails right? Any hard tail will experience this once compressed?

I'm in metrowest. I ride a few of the smaller places like landlocked forest, Russel Mill, Rattlesnake Hill, Callahan State Park. The fuse is great for these types but I only realy know my bike. I've also been to Vietnam a handful of times and I'm the only person I've ever seen riding a hard tail there... Its good for 95% of the terrain though. The more I research the more I think I need to try some bikes with that HTA... but the Fuse Expert I was eyeing just sold and they were impossible to find last year. Its a hard time to buy a bike...ha.

Homers BBBq fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jan 25, 2022

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Homers BBBq posted:

This isn't just for slacker hardtails right? Any hard tail will experience this once compressed?
Yeah, it certainly applies no matter the HTA, so from that perspective, you'd still be experiencing the same shift in slackness. My point was more that it's not as slack as the numbers would show compared to full suspension bikes.

quote:

I'm in metrowest. I ride a few of the smaller places like landlocked forest, Russel Mill, Rattlesnake Hill, Callahan State Park. The fuse is great for these types but I only realy know my bike. I've also been to Vietnam a handful of times and I'm the only person I've ever seen riding a hard tail there... Its good for 95% of the terrain though. The more I research the more I think I need to try some bikes with that HTA... but the Fuse Expert I was eyeing just sold and they were impossible to find last year. Its a hard time to buy a bike...ha.
I had a Fuse 6Fatty and didn't get along with the 27.5+ tires -- it didn't climb as well as 29 and still felt like a razor's edge between too rubbery and too bogged down, depending on where you had the tire pressure.
I'm back on plain 27.5 and am more solidified that 27.5+ was the worst of both worlds on what I'm riding on.

I don't think 67deg HTA will hold you back if that's your style, though, so really is down to whether you're ok with sitting and waiting for a bike to show up.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply