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Did you use the TOB from the exedy kit? I seem to recall I did on my Forester in 2014 and that loving thing was dry and screaming within 50k miles when I had to replace the engine due to being an idiot and running it low on oil, pilot bearing was chunky feeling too. I'll never use their included bearings again, name brand labeled clutch bearings only for me... ... Of course my name brand TOB in the Honcho is screaming when not gently held against the clutch fingers right now too, so gently caress knows, maybe I just have terrible luck with clutch bearings.
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Jan 22, 2022 18:25
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Eye ball alignment and brake line replaced and the C10 is driveable. Need to get it properly aligned, replace one tire that is just looking bad and probably get it to the body shop for the things I can’t be bother with like the front bumper. Then AC out back together before two week from now when it is surface of sun time here! Well ok fine April.
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Jan 22, 2022 20:03
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BigPaddy posted:Eye ball alignment I keep getting stuck on this and imagining an elaborate headgear with suction cups.
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Jan 22, 2022 20:12
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Got the headers on yesterday. Got the brackets mounted, and the supercharger installed. Now just to finish the plumbing and fuel upgrades before tightening up the exhaust from front to back.
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Jan 22, 2022 20:32
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Rhyno posted:I keep getting stuck on this and imagining an elaborate headgear with suction cups. Don’t doxx me thx. I think the transmission is the original for the truck and weeps from every seal. Not sure if it makes more sense to drop it into a transmission place and just get it rebuilt or if that will be more than buying a remanned TH350 and swapping it. Probably comes down to if I can be arsed to pull the fucker myself or not.
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Jan 22, 2022 21:58
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if its just leaking and still shifts fine i would be tempted to do a weekend drop-reseal-reinstall or if you want to keep driving it, grab a junkyard th350, reseal it on the bench, and swap at your leisure
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Jan 22, 2022 22:01
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kastein posted:Did you use the TOB from the exedy kit? I seem to recall I did on my Forester in 2014 and that loving thing was dry and screaming within 50k miles when I had to replace the engine due to being an idiot and running it low on oil, pilot bearing was chunky feeling too. I'll never use their included bearings again, name brand labeled clutch bearings only for me... I was thinking about it, but I ended up ordering an OEM pilot bearing and release bearing since these things are already super problematic as is. Dunno why Subarus have such issues with pilot bearings, clutch forks, and clutch pivots 🤔 Clutch disk and pressure plate OEM is made by Exedy (which is what I got with the Exedy branding), but I think the release bearing is made by NTK for OEM?
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Jan 22, 2022 22:04
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Raluek posted:if its just leaking and still shifts fine i would be tempted to do a weekend drop-reseal-reinstall I think it is just the tail shaft and pan seals which is even easier. It shifts well now that the vacuum is hooked up  every few days I am like “just LS swap it” then I remember that it is not just an engine and trans but engine mounts, cross member, ignition system, transmission controller etc… but everything is fine but needs a few seals sorted.
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Jan 22, 2022 22:11
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BlackMK4 posted:At least there was an absolute shitload more room to work with. White car looks like What are those cylinders on the cross braces?
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Jan 22, 2022 23:55
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Remote coilover reservoirs I think.
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Jan 23, 2022 00:02
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BlackMK4 posted:I was thinking about it, but I ended up ordering an OEM pilot bearing and release bearing since these things are already super problematic as is. Dunno why Subarus have such issues with pilot bearings, clutch forks, and clutch pivots 🤔 Glad to hear it. I was very happy with the exedy pressure plate and clutch, just not the bearings. NTK is probably in the half dozen name brands I trust... Though I did just get hosed over by either a timken or a national TOB on the Honcho according to my order history so I might have to reconsider what I should be buying. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Jan 23, 2022 |
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Jan 23, 2022 02:57
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kastein posted:Glad to hear it. I was very happy with the exedy pressure plate and clutch, just not the bearings. NTK is probably in the half dozen name brands I trust... Though I did just get hosed over by either a timken or a national TOB on the Honcho according to my order history so I might have to reconsider what I should be buying. drat, I thought Timken was one of the safe ones  Full Collapse posted:What are those cylinders on the cross braces? Olympic Mathlete posted:Remote coilover reservoirs I think. Mathalete got it  Compression adjustment is done with the silver knob on the reservoir and rebound on the top of the shaft. If they were 3 way adjustable there would be a second black knob on top of the silver knob for low speed compression adjustment.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Jan 23, 2022 |
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Jan 23, 2022 17:10
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BigPaddy posted:I think it is just the tail shaft and pan seals which is even easier. It shifts well now that the vacuum is hooked up Yeah if it's just those you don't even need to drop it. If you have to drop the pan anyway I'd call that an excuse to buy a pan with a drain plug and a Lubelocker gasket.
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Jan 23, 2022 17:40
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BlackMK4 posted:drat, I thought Timken was one of the safe ones As someone who deals with bearings in an industrial setting, I'd trust Timken. NTN, NTK, FAG, (THK though we don't do much linear motion in vehicles), and INA are the brands I try to stick with. I don't get bearings from the auto parts store, I go to my local industrial supplier and get the bearings there, often a quality brand for the same price or cheaper.
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Jan 23, 2022 18:57
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BlackMK4 posted:drat, I thought Timken was one of the safe ones They might be? I thought so too. They basically invented tapered roller bearings. Anyways there's a 50-50 chance they're innocent, I said either or because I have records indicating I bought this part twice for the build and I know for a fact that was because I lost one in my messy rear end shop and bought another since they're like ten bucks. One was a national, one was a timken. I don't know which I installed. I found the other months later while cleaning. When I get back to the East coast I'll be packing up my shop probably so I'll try and find the extra so I know who to blame... And so I can bring it back West with me and install it For what it's worth the brands I generally trust are Timken, FAG (don't blame me, terrible name for a great bearing manufacturer), NSK, National, SKF. I need to reconsider that list apparently. I used to trust centric but I've had bad luck with them on Subaru wheel bearings even when being extremely careful about assembly cleanliness and where I applied pressure so I think I'm done buying them now. E: obviously I missed the list in the next post up. I don't recognize some of those, I think they don't really target the auto market? I buy most of mine on rockauto. I used to use Amazon but I've been shipped other brand used bearings in boxes due to unscrupulous customers returning their old bearings and counterfeits by actual sellers because while Amazon does have a counterfeit prevention system in place, stuff falls through the cracks. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jan 23, 2022 |
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Jan 23, 2022 21:12
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no lube so what posted:people are dumping the v6 Camaro power train into them and getting better than 10lb/hp That's looks like a brilliant swap.
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Jan 23, 2022 21:58
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 Got the plumbing done, and ran the vacuum lines. Gonna torque the headers, then run the fuel lines for the upgraded fuel system. Really just a few hours from firing it up.
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Jan 23, 2022 23:35
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honda whisperer posted:That's looks like a brilliant swap. Sound brilliant too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGu1K4kNkRA
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Jan 24, 2022 02:52
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Spent an hour trying to align the doors on the C10 they kept sagging after I was sure they were aligned correct. Some of you probably know what was going on. New hinges ordered since I am not messing around removing the old pins and bushes when new hinges are $20. Picking those up today and might do it this evening. Ordered pan and tail shaft seal for the th350 that after taking the truck out for 20 miles doesn't have the kick down cable installed either so probably grab one of those. Finally getting an alignment done after the new front suspension this week and new tire for one that is rubbed through to the white material in the side wall.
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Jan 24, 2022 17:34
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EvilBeard posted:Got the headers on yesterday. Got the brackets mounted, and the supercharger installed. Now just to finish the plumbing and fuel upgrades before tightening up the exhaust from front to back. Clean out yer condenser, yo. Quoting myself from my thread: Darchangel posted:I never did fix the gas smell that the Outback would occasionally do when it was cold. Finally drug my rear end out to see about that.
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Jan 24, 2022 17:52
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Darchangel posted:Clean out yer condenser, yo. Indeed, once I get everything installed, I'll go wash it out and hit it with the comb. Still gotta run the external fuel pump and lines. I got the headers torqued, new plugs gapped and installed, and the vacuum lines ran today. I just have to pull the fuel and return line, and the wires for the pump. Should be just a little bit left before I'm ready to put the bumper back on it and call it good. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jan 24, 2022 |
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Jan 24, 2022 18:23
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I went out to move my 93 Toyota Pickup the other day and she wouldn't start. The battery appeared to be 100% drained. I hooked up my lithium jumper pack and it started right up. I put the truck in the garage, connected a trickle charger, and let it boil away while I put some new shocks on the truck. The torsion bars are cranked down a bit in the front and the rear is lowered via blocks. I got KYB Gas-A-Just monotubes for all four corners, stock units for the rear and units intended for a 1969 Camaro with a small-block in the front. The bottom mount on the Chevy shock needed a little adjustment, but otherwise the fit is right and the length of the shock is about 2" shorter. This is a pretty common swap on Toyota minitrucks. I tested the battery with a multimeter and my resistive load battery tester. It tested good. I think maaaaybe I left the dome light on ON instead of DOOR, but I wasn't paying attention when I was messing with it when I first realized the battery was dead. After sitting all night in the garage, the battery started the truck just fine. The old battery dates back to when I first acquired the truck back in summer 2015. I drove the truck around a little bit, and it seems to stop bouncing after bumps quite a bit faster than before. The turn signals in the truck didn't self cancel when going around corners. I've had an aftermarket steering wheel for a long time. I never put those two things together. I took the steering wheel and the mounting adapter off to examine the mechanism responsible for self-canceling turn signals when I realized the problem. The steering wheel adapter was missing the little holes that line up with the little protrusions for the self-canceling mechanism. I ordered a new (shallower) adapter from Amazon and lo! it has the holes for the self-canceling mechanism. I did have to Dremel out some clearance in the steering column trim to fit the new adapter, but now I have fully-canceling turn signals. As a bonus, my fingers can reach the turn signal stalk more easily while holding the steering wheel. It used to be a bit of a stretch because of the combination of the dish on my steering wheel and the longer depth of the old adapter. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jan 24, 2022 |
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Jan 24, 2022 20:18
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Been posting it a lot in the Subaru thread but I’ve been wanted to remove everything chrome or silver from my STI so I got the wheels powder coated and replaced the badges:   Then cleaned it a little 
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Jan 26, 2022 21:20
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Bought new front hubs for the white BRZ since one is toasted and I may as well replace the other. Had an unwelcome surprise though Timken left, Centric right. OEM looks like the centric. Timken looks a lot more beefy, which is nice coming from owning two cars known for hub failures (S2000, Miata) but W T F the bearing housing wasn't machined up far enough to get the studs out. Goddamnit.   
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Jan 28, 2022 03:04
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the timken has a thicker flange, but the housing on the centric looks like it was finished better. like it has a chamfer around the top edge, and the machined surfaces are smoother. i wonder if there is a practical difference in strength if you need longer studs, i dont think i would worry too much about having to use the centric, but i am not a mechanical engineer 
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Jan 28, 2022 08:46
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I got the fittings mounted in the driver's side gas tank. I just have to clean a spot on the frame and ground the pump, and I'm ready to start buttoning up the project. Just a couple screws to mount the exhaust cutout controller, and then it's putting the exhaust back on and putting all the body bits back on. I'm hoping maybe by Monday I can actually fire it up.
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Jan 29, 2022 04:16
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Raluek posted:the timken has a thicker flange, but the housing on the centric looks like it was finished better. like it has a chamfer around the top edge, and the machined surfaces are smoother. i wonder if there is a practical difference in strength Yeah, I think the Centrics will be fine too. They are the same style as OEM, but I did manage to get the Timken studs out and ARP extended studs in with a bit of stud seat edge smoothing.
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Jan 29, 2022 19:27
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Got the Scout running after 18 months of sitting. Finally figured out that the shop I had wire the neutral safety switch in put 3 wire joins in a 8 in area with no solder and just crimp fittings. Switched it to a deutsch plug, replaced a blown relay (thanks ai:secret Santa!) and it started again! Also put in a battery isolator and new optima red top with bracket. Much better than the Napa brand with no bracket that was there before. Figured out what needs to be completed to get it registered again: - reverse light is always on. Need to look at nss wiring again I guess - Turn signal lights (probably fuse) - master cylinder seems to be stuck. I've got a hydro boost ready to go in with a new one - replace rag joint with universal joint a nice guy at a meet gave me in the before times - need to do something with the rear hatch hinges, PO drilled though them and basically ruined them. I'm going to keep the top on it for now. - finish installing this vintage air kit before summer arrives. I've had plenty of time to do all this during the pandemic, it's just so hard to motivate myself to get out there and do it.
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Jan 30, 2022 23:33
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Used my new bead roller to turn this, or at least part of it: into this:  (I'm really happy with how the bends came out!) I cut the tail off after the last bead to make it easier to fit up.:  I'll be trimming the floor more for the next piece, to catch a bit more thin metal that I spotted, and to just simplify the patch. Tacked it:  Burned in, a little sloppily, but not the worst:  Ground it down and discovered some missed spots. As expected, really. (I also had to chase some disappearing metal on the floor ribs there, too. I'm going to just slap a coat of epoxy down to address all those pinholes, then probably some bedliner.) I absolutely did not catch this towel on fire trying to use it to protect what little carpet is left...  I totally caught that towel on fire, right underneath my face. None of those brown spots are oil stains. Burned in and ground down:  And a little zinc primer:  It's fairly obvious it's there, but I wasn't going for an invisible repair, just a solid one. It's going to be under the carpet, never to be seen again for years. That was Saturday. Sunday everything hurt so much from contorting myself into the footwell (sooooo oooooold) that I couldn't work up the shits to give for doing the rest of it, so I cleaned up some random interior bits as I was moving some things around in the garage, whilst looking for the grout I thought I had.  The 8-ball "white" is a little bit more yellow than it looks in the photo, but I can't find anything to un-yellow it. Honestly, it's about the shade most billiard balls actually are, and it's durable, so I'll leave it alone. It stood up to polishing with Blue Magic metal polish! I think it may actually be built like a billiard ball, though it's smaller than an actual one. The rubber stuff was just all dirty from being under the carpet and such. Also, I guess I only have the one pedal pad - and it cracked a little when I cleaned it. It's a bit crispy. I mean, it *is* 43 years old...
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Jan 31, 2022 23:36
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Got the exhaust up today. Just need to wire in the flex fuel sensor for e85 and put the bumper and hood on. I have to grab gas after work, because I drained almost everything putting the fuel lines in for the external pump. Exhaust sounds https://imgur.com/a/BBgZMRH Whirly thingy https://imgur.com/a/cvVnyJT BOV https://imgur.com/a/thc1irY EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Feb 1, 2022 |
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Feb 1, 2022 00:28
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The cupholders in my pickup suck. They don't hold my Amazon Yetty (fake Yeti) cup and they block the HVAC controls when pulled out. They also do a bad job of holding my phone. So I started making a replacement unit. The 12mm Baltic Birch plywood material and the box joint joinery are both ludicrous overkill for the application, but that is just how I do things. I used my shop-built box joint jig to make this structure:   The perimeter shown above was then attached to a base also made of plywood. The back of the base extends about 3" past the edges of the cupholder box and wedges nicely under the bottom of the front seat. The cupholder is cradled within a notch cut out of the seat for the shifter. I knew from the outset that the movement of the shift lever was going to be an issue, but it turned out to be more of a problem than I had originally anticipated. Everything is fine in first, third, and fifth gear:  But we have design issues in second, fourth, and reverse. I guess that is why Toyota didn't put a cupholder there.  My wife hates the truck and won't ride in it with me. When our daughter takes short rides to daycare or the hardware store with me in the truck she has her own cupholders on her booster seat. So the solution the shifter problem is to reposition my tall cup when necessary. Or drink from shorter cups. Or just live my life in 1st, 3rd, and 5th. Backing up is admitting you made a mistake in the first place! Yee-haw! Here it is with the first coat of truck bed coating on it for grip and water protection. It has to dry inside because the temperature at 8 AM was -1* FreedomUnits. 
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Feb 3, 2022 19:36
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PBCrunch posted:The 12mm Baltic Birch plywood material and the box joint joinery are both ludicrous overkill for the application, but that is just how I do things. I respect the fact you've used quality ply, I used cheaper stuff to make some PA speakers years ago and then used quality birch. The manufacturing process was like night and day, the birch was a dream to work with after that cheap poo poo. Any chance you can shuffle it around/modify it to fit around the shifter or is it back to the drawing board?
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Feb 3, 2022 19:43
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I'm going to keep it and use it for a little while and see if I can live with the limitations. At some point I hope to find some junkyard bucket seats from a Mazda RX-8 (lol Renesis durability) or some high-strung German car and replace this with a whole homemade center console. I use Baltic Birch because that way I know there won't be any voids in the plies when seen from the sides. Plus when using a clear finish you can see a lot of layers, which I think looks cool. You can see one of my box joint boxes with a little more attention to detail and a clear finish in the background on the right here: 
PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Feb 3, 2022 |
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Feb 3, 2022 20:01
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I registered and titled this today:
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Feb 4, 2022 04:07
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I ran the wire across the firewall for my flexfuel sensor, and found that you have to take all the fasteners out of the fender to get the plug off my ECU. Got the ecu out, and put the wire in pin 40 like instructed, and managed to get everything back together. I just have to put the front wheels back on and it's mechanically done. Gonna install a front splitter and side skirts to finish the body kit whenever I can get another set of hands to help me get them in the right place.
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Feb 4, 2022 06:10
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I put a second coat of bedliner on the cupholder and put it in the truck. I took a maiden voyage with the cupholder installed and... I can live with the compromises. The shift lever is biased towards the left side so the driver has a shorter reach for it. If I put any tall cup in the right side box, the shift lever doesn't touch the cup at all in second gear and is close but has like an 1/8" clearance in fourth gear. When I put the shifter into reverse the lever contacts the cup, but there is enough wiggle room in the cupholder that my Yetty cup can kind of lean over a tiny little bit. Yes, items should not touch the shift lever while in gear, but for the short intervals the truck is ever in reverse, it is an acceptable compromise. Second gear, no problem!  Fourth gear, close, but no rubbin':  Reverse, we have contact, but it'll buff out:  Video of it in "action": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9l87pyJdDs Yes, the video is portrait, but so is the subject matter.
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Feb 4, 2022 16:05
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PBCrunch posted:I put a second coat of bedliner on the cupholder and put it in the truck. I took a maiden voyage with the cupholder installed and... I can live with the compromises. The shift lever is biased towards the left side so the driver has a shorter reach for it. poo poo, man, the factory cupholder in my Mustang was a problem with anything taller than a soda can. First time I had a beverage in the car after I bought it I popped the lid off a cup when I grabbed second. I'd say yours is a winner. Should be nice and grippy with the bedliner in it, too.
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Feb 4, 2022 16:44
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Went out and finished up the vac lines and the fuel line on the supercharger project. I also put a 90 elbow in a coolant line because it wanted to kink where I had to reroute it around the supercharger. Got the fittings for the boost gauge and put it in the vac lines. Fired it up, and I have no boost. I started checking the BOV and it's staying open even when I throttle up. I hooked my air compressor to it and put 10 psi to it. It stayed closed, but I still built no boost. I tested the boost gauge by blowing into it, so I know that works. I guess I either have a boost leak or my supercharger isn't making boost. Going to dig into it further in the morning. I did get the intake cover and coil covers back on.
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Feb 6, 2022 02:14
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Installed some higher end coils for track prep as allegedly, the stock coils are prone to heat soak. Ugh, the H layout sucks to work on sometimes. I might end up paying someone when spark plugs are due.
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Feb 6, 2022 06:11
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You could also bolt your yetty manger to the dash board. If it's a beater and resale value isn't a concern. I did that with a phone holder and it was rock solid.
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Feb 6, 2022 06:33
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