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OldSenileGuy posted:Does the mortgage from Navy Federal really truly have no PMI? Or do they just advertise it as no PMI but really they hide it somewhere else like a lender-paid PMI where they just jack up your interest rate to cover the cost? In the past, Navy Federal has offered "15% down, no PMI" loans for rates competitive with anyone else's "20% down conventional", but I don't think that program has been active for a few years at least. At "5%-down or lower" the insurance is going to be baked into the rate, and I'm pretty sure a fairly high risk premium for OP as well. Aexo posted:They explicitly say no PMI. I assume it's baked into the interest rate. I asked for info about a $350K 30yr mortgage (This is so I know what the top end would be, but can guesstimate what a lower price would cost.) and this is what they ballparked me, didn't even ask my credit rating or income. Motronic posted:Those are all awful rates/fees and greatly exceed what you'd pay from a traditional lender with PMI. Assuming you have good credit. Navy Federal has always treated me right, and I tell everyone that they're my first stop for shopping around on mortgages. In this market, though, I will tell you, Aexo, those are "please don't make us do this" rates. Compare those rates to the "well-qualified buyer" rates they advertise, and realize they are quoting you much higher numbers because they they think you are (relatively) likely to founder and make them foreclose. If they didn't, your rates would be somewhere between 4.125% for the 5% conventional to 4.5% for the Homebuyer's Choice, and pretty near 3% if you were able to scratch up 20%.
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Jan 22, 2022 19:01
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I won't comment on the financials other than saying that the idea of taking all of your savings, then applying your monthly savings plus rent to a mortgage, with absolutely no buffer is making my heart rate spike. Is there a specific reason you're desperate to buy a house? Renting isn't throwing money away, and it's a perfectly valid choice to make for housing. You also have a very low rent rate especially compared to a potential mortgage. And in line with what others are saying, remember that rent is a ceiling and mortgage is a floor. We're getting our first round of utility bills since buying, and even though our house is only 20% larger than our apartment was, the bills, yikes. We can easily afford the increase, thankfully. And we did expect a large increase after reading this thread and other "home buying 101" guides.
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Jan 22, 2022 20:09
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My husband and I probably could have gotten into a house a few years ago, but it would've been smaller and with a lot less of a savings/income buffer. A few extra years in a cheap apartment made the house-buying process a lot smoother; we could afford a bigger down payment, and we had plenty of savings to fix all of the unexpected issues. We also ended up with a much nicer place after an extra 2-3 years of raises (including one incredibly fortuitous +20% bump in pay). Rushing into home ownership and being house poor just isn't worth it, especially in an absolutely ridiculous market and when you have a relatively cheap, reliable living situation already. It's the boring, disappointing answer to "should I buy a house?" but I'd seriously consider giving yourself an extra few years of saving up.
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Jan 22, 2022 22:11
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Involuntary Sparkle posted:I won't comment on the financials other than saying that the idea of taking all of your savings, then applying your monthly savings plus rent to a mortgage, with absolutely no buffer is making my heart rate spike. Yeah, that's very risky imo and I wouldn't do it
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Jan 22, 2022 22:18
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Cyrano4747 posted:Yeah, an average 30 year fixed right now is something like 3.5%, so a full point under what they quoted. Average 30 year rate (for purchases not refis) as of Friday is 3.67% per Bankrate, which my friend pointed out is about 1% higher than in the depth of early pandemic time at the low point.
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Jan 22, 2022 22:21
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Upgrade posted:Your estimates have no cushion for things that will inevitably happen, like, say (what I'm dealing with right now) - a winter colder than any in a decade during a pandemic driven supply chain crisis that spiked natural gas costs up hugely, leaving me with a $500/mo heating bill. Or, as people have pointed out, repairs. That is a hell of a heating bill for Natural Gas. Demand and warm temps have caused a significant drop in prices. 40% lower than when utilities were warning about the high prices. Granted 50% more that last year this time. hattersmad posted:-Upcoming $300 I’d guess to get disposal fixed You seem handy, New disposal is under $200 and real simple to install.
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Jan 23, 2022 00:30
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Hoo boy I was not ready for property taxes to factor so much into the mortgage. I was expecting $2k a year, in the areas I was looking it’s more like $6k-7500. Guess my price limit goes down like $50k or I jump to the suburbs!
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Jan 23, 2022 00:47
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spwrozek posted:That is a hell of a heating bill for Natural Gas. Demand and warm temps have caused a significant drop in prices. 40% lower than when utilities were warning about the high prices. Granted 50% more that last year this time. Yep - old house, big, tall ceilings.  hopefully the prices start coming down then but haven’t seen anything yet in my city!
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Jan 23, 2022 01:16
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spwrozek posted:That is a hell of a heating bill for Natural Gas. Demand and warm temps have caused a significant drop in prices. 40% lower than when utilities were warning about the high prices. Granted 50% more that last year this time. Not wrong, and I’ve replaced a disposal before. It’s more that I want to take a bit of a break by having someone else do something. Maybe I get motivated and DIY that, too.
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Jan 23, 2022 05:39
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I've started looking in the Triangle area of NC, and I was never able to get a good answer in the debt thread (since it's mostly inactive), but if I have a debt out in collections (literally just $101), is it better to just pay it off from a credit perspective? I got it removed from one credit bureau (FDCPA violations), but the other two kept it, so I end up with two lower credit scores in my report. Googling says it doesn't really move the needle. I got prequalified at 3.5% back in December with a PMI of $135 (12% down), obviously want to keep that interest rate as low as possible as it starts to rise across the country. I've contacted a multitude of debt attorneys locally, nobody gives me the time of day on such a small thing.
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Jan 23, 2022 17:37
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hattersmad posted:Not wrong, and I’ve replaced a disposal before. It’s more that I want to take a bit of a break by having someone else do something. Maybe I get motivated and DIY that, too. Although it might in principle be easy, I'm not going to look down at someone for declining to do anything with their garbage disposal with their own two hands. Mixing electrical work with plumbing work and adding sharp objects is something I'd feel just fine leaving to a professional.
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Jan 23, 2022 18:34
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GordonComstock posted:I've started looking in the Triangle area of NC, and I was never able to get a good answer in the debt thread (since it's mostly inactive), but if I have a debt out in collections (literally just $101), is it better to just pay it off from a credit perspective? I got it removed from one credit bureau (FDCPA violations), but the other two kept it, so I end up with two lower credit scores in my report. Googling says it doesn't really move the needle. I got prequalified at 3.5% back in December with a PMI of $135 (12% down), obviously want to keep that interest rate as low as possible as it starts to rise across the country. I don't know if it's going to move the needle at all, but honestly for such a small debt I'd probably just cut the check on the off chance that it did. Having a conversation with a loan officer and having to explain a $100 debt just seems like a dumb headache, and I'm going to assume that if you're in a financial position to be looking at buying a house you're financially secure enough to kill off a $100 debt without breaking a sweat.
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Jan 23, 2022 18:35
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Yeah, I have zero issue with the cost, I just know that it locks me into the debt on my record if I pay (7 year window to fall off my record is 4 years away). Best case scenario is I get it removed from the other two agencies, worst is I pay and nothing happens. I just wanted to see if anyone had some previous experience here. I've also considered suing the apartment complex that referred the debt automatically after 30 days, since I have email records to show I was trying to pay the debt, but that their online portal wasn't letting me. It won't fix my credit, but I'm assuming I could show hardship from that action, since I have literally zero other debt, pay all bills on time, etc and should have an excellent credit score (it's over 800 on the one agency that removed it). But if I remember correctly, some leases for apartments ask if you've ever sued a landlord thingy so it could come back to bite me if I ever have to rent again. Basically, I expect to pay the debt, nothing happens, and I refinance the mortgage when it drops off my credit score. But I'm pretty loving salty about it.
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Jan 23, 2022 21:36
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twerking on the railroad posted:Although it might in principle be easy, I'm not going to look down at someone for declining to do anything with their garbage disposal with their own two hands. There isn’t any electrical work required usually if you are just replacing it, because it should already be on a switched outlet. If you find a drop in replacement for the old model, it’s basically plumbing legos. But I find garbage disposals to be pretty useless anyway so I’d recommend just replacing it with a normal drain pipe.
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Jan 23, 2022 23:13
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GordonComstock posted:Basically, I expect to pay the debt, nothing happens, and I refinance the mortgage when it drops off my credit score. But I'm pretty loving salty about it.
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Jan 23, 2022 23:54
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Putting in an offer today at the upper end of my budget. I am about to absolutely explode with anxiety. Who decided to make this part of the human experience, tell me so I can throttle them
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Jan 24, 2022 00:33
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Anyone have experience with a rent back situation? We found a home we like and the sellers can't move out until June so they're interested in someone buying and renting back to them until June. Rent would cover our monthly costs plus a little more. We have a lease until end of June actually so in terms of timing and cost this isn't a horrible situation for us. I don't really want to be in a temporary landlord situation though but it's only for two months from closing to when they'd in theory move out.
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Jan 24, 2022 01:03
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Doctor Party posted:Anyone have experience with a rent back situation? We found a home we like and the sellers can't move out until June so they're interested in someone buying and renting back to them until June. We leased back to someone for a month after close because they were somehow unwilling to vacate their house until almost three months after the date we made the offer. It went fine but I would say I was pretty stressed coordinating an out of state move to get our stuff over there on the earliest possible day, not having keys in hand and knowing if the place had been vacant until after all my stuff went on a truck and started driving away. If you're really chill and think the seller is really solid it may be ok but it requires some faith. You're probably only holding a small amount of cash in escrow to release at possession, compared to a normal close where you're holding the entire amount over their head and won't pay a dime until you have the keys to an empty house. We didn't have to do any landlord stuff, they just lived here and left the place in good enough shape - they didn't bother to patch holes in walls, paint etc. I don't think they understand the contract and rushed to complete the move out when we reminded them they needed to be gone by midnight the next day. Tldr is worked fine for me but seemed stressful, in the incredibly unlikely situation the owner decided to squat it would have been a huge pain in the rear end.
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Jan 24, 2022 01:23
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YanniRotten posted:We leased back to someone for a month after close because they were somehow unwilling to vacate their house until almost three months after the date we made the offer. That isn't shocking. For example, their new place may not be ready for a month or so until after they close on their sale. It's cheaper and easier to rent back for a month or than put stuff in storage and find a monthly rental. It also makes sense that they can't close on their new place until after they get the money from the sale of their old place. YanniRotten posted:they didn't bother to patch holes in walls, paint etc. Nor should they be expected to. They agreed to leave it in the same condition as it was during closing, not better condition. If there wasn't a requirement to patch holes, paint, or do other new work in the contract then it was not going to happen. WeaselWeaz fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jan 24, 2022 |
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Jan 24, 2022 01:30
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Doctor Party posted:Anyone have experience with a rent back situation? We found a home we like and the sellers can't move out until June so they're interested in someone buying and renting back to them until June. Release the thread hounds! Do you want to be an accidental landlord? Does the mortgage you are signing and your insurance policy say that you are going to occupy the place, not rent it for an unknown amount of time? What if it's okay for as long as they intend to stay but the don't leave? Are you still covered? Do you need to refinance? Get different insurance? What happens if they break things/trash the place while you own it and they are there? Do you have a deposit? Can you go after more? What happens if something breaks that you need to replace wile they still live there? What happens if they don't' leave at the end of the rentback? How long does an eviction take in your state and how much will it cost? Where will you live and what will that cost during this time? Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jan 24, 2022 |
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Jan 24, 2022 01:30
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Doctor Party posted:Anyone have experience with a rent back situation? We found a home we like and the sellers can't move out until June so they're interested in someone buying and renting back to them until June. My advice (and the advice of the lawyer I used when my sellers wanted one) is absolutely no loving way. See motronic’s post. Why not offer to just close in June? If you’re willing to wait that long no need to gamble on a rent back. If you’re going to do it anyway, you NEED to use a lawyer.
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Jan 24, 2022 01:50
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This is sort of what we're thinking. Why do we have to be involved in this. And if so then we'd need to go the route of getting a lawyer and blah blah and its probably more trouble than its worth. A few of our friends have done this and had OK experiences. But it's definitely a dice roll. Could it be smooth sailing no problem sure but some chance it's a total disaster.
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Jan 24, 2022 02:17
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Doctor Party posted:A few of our friends have done this and had OK experiences. If they can't do that (because they are too cash poor) that should inform your decision.
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Jan 24, 2022 02:35
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Hello thread. The wife and I are starting the process of looking to buy a house and I'm already exhausted. One thing I'm trying to feel a little more comfortable about is how to gauge the seriousness of having to do a significant amount of work on a house is. I know it gets real expensive and is a huge pain in the rear end for a lot of reasons, but there may be some circumstances where the location, amount of land, etc., might be worth considering buying a fixer-upper. I am sure there answer is, as always "the devil is in the details" and "the pandemic is loving the supply chain," but I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on how to ballpark dollar amounts. Assuming something like, the bones are good, but stripping the rest down to the drywall (or including drywall) kind of thing. I know this is an impossible to answer question, but any thoughts would be appreciated. [edit: Might have answered my own question. Maybe this is kinda what I am looking for - https://www.rocketmortgage.com/learn/home-renovation-costs#x9 ]
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Jan 24, 2022 02:56
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Internet Explorer posted:fixer-upper What is you skill level as fixer upping? None? Either way sounds like you need to know what it costs to make it right (by a professional) and get that as a discount on the place. And if you can do it yourself for cheaper? Good on you. We call that sweat equity. Post actual houses, your budget and expectations. Not wikihow level articles. (from companies who only care about you buying the most expensive house they can reasonably sell the mortgage on to someone else lol) Motronic fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Jan 24, 2022 |
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Jan 24, 2022 04:09
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Internet Explorer posted:Hello thread. The wife and I are starting the process of looking to buy a house and I'm already exhausted. If you don't know how to remodel or haven't been through a remodel then your estimate without outside people looking at it will not be very good. Both in terms of time and cost. Depending on how the setup is and what needs to be done is also a huge decision point. Only bathroom not working for 3 weeks? big problem. If you can live in another part of the house not as big of a deal. Are you going to be OK holding off on improvements or does it have to be done now? What do you and the wife consider "livable"? Not sure where you are looking. When I bought in Denver last year I found that most houses that needed work went for way more than was sensible for the work needed and the time sink/headache it would be.
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Jan 24, 2022 04:13
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My wife and I are currently on the seller side of the rent back process. We closed a few weeks ago, and are renting back until the end of February, when we’ll be closing on our new house that’s nearing completion. I guess because it’s such a sellers market here, we could ask for whatever we wanted and sell above listing price, which we did. The buyer’s offer was two months of renting back to us at $100/month, and a $1000 refundable security deposit for afterwards. I wouldn’t be surprised if they find ways to not give that deposit back after they take possession, but I don’t really care too much. $1200 for two months rent is way, wayyy below market value for this house. Funny story for this thread too- the buyer’s REA completely missed the deadline for sending us their requested repairs by two full days. And then when we got the highlighted inspection report with their requests, it was full of ticky-tack things the inspector called out, like trimming bushes so they don’t touch the house, and balancing a wobbly ceiling fan. The buyer’s offer included repair procedure, so we only had to fix major items, of which there were none on the inspection. We declined to do any of their requested repairs, both by virtue of them missing the deadline and not having to do them in the first place. Either their agent didn’t fully explain to them what exactly they offered, or was just incompetent, but she’s giving up 0.5% of her commission back to them for the gently caress up. I’m so ready to move into this new house and be done with this bullshit market for a long time.
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Jan 24, 2022 04:52
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Doctor Party posted:Anyone have experience with a rent back situation? We found a home we like and the sellers can't move out until June so they're interested in someone buying and renting back to them until June. Just extend the close date and have them pay for the difference (e.g. your extended rate lock). That's way less risky for you and may wind up being cheaper for them. And I mean way less risky. If they wind up trashing the place or refuse to leave then that sucks but is not nearly as bad because you don't own the house yet; you get to walk away clean or can negotiate for compensation. Once the transaction completes then they already have your money and basically have no reason to treat you right aside from the goodness of their hearts, and these are people who are already in an adversarial relationship with you by the nature of the homebuying transaction, and who could decide to enact any kind of retribution for any number of stupid reasons. If they need your money before moving out and you feel like proceeding with a rent-backthen you need to talk to a real estate lawyer about the specific risks in your location and the exact steps you need to take to protect yourself, and you need to get their help drawing up a solid agreement. Insist on a hefty security deposit, a mandatory cleaning fee, and an escalating rent amount if they stay past their release. Require cash up front. Require that they have proof of renter's insurance prior to close. Have them pay for any difference in rate that your insurance company charges you. QuarkJets fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Jan 24, 2022 |
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Jan 24, 2022 04:57
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Motronic posted:What is you skill level as fixer upping? None? Either way sounds like you need to know what it costs to make it right (by a professional) and get that as a discount on the place. And if you can do it yourself for cheaper? Good on you. We call that sweat equity. We're reasonably handy, but for big stuff we'd hire out. Yeah, I'm not going to post details about houses I'm thinking about on SA. I posted the article as a starting point in the discussion and even said I knew the devil was in the details. All good info, though, thanks. spwrozek posted:If you don't know how to remodel or haven't been through a remodel then your estimate without outside people looking at it will not be very good. Both in terms of time and cost. Depending on how the setup is and what needs to be done is also a huge decision point. Only bathroom not working for 3 weeks? big problem. If you can live in another part of the house not as big of a deal. Are you going to be OK holding off on improvements or does it have to be done now? What do you and the wife consider "livable"? Yeah, we don't know how to remodel and haven't done it before. They're big enough places that they could be done in sections without it being an enormous hassle. There's also enough room that if we wanted to do something silly like build a yurt as a place to escape to at times, we could. It'd definitely be a stretch of time/money, compared to our usual approach of aiming for stuff that doesn't need work. We're pretty spoiled with "livable," but if it's a temporary thing for a longer-term gain, we're of the type who can buckle down and just get through something. Thanks for the thoughts. Pretty much what I expected to hear, but still good to hear.
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Jan 24, 2022 19:46
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Assuming you want to keep costs low but you don't want to just put in new Formica and Linoleum, plan on Kitchen - $40-$50k for keeping existing cabinets but doing new cabinet faces, counters, appliances, floors. If you want new cabinets, $65k. If you want to change the layout in any way, $75k-$115k. You could spend 2-5x this but these are numbers for middle of the road quartz/flooring/appliances Master bathroom - $40k-$50k for keeping the exact footprint but replacing everything. $65-$80k if you're moving the layout at all or converting a tub to a walk-in shower. You could spend 2-5x this of course Hall bathroom - $20k facelift, $35k layout change Powder room/half bath - $10k New carpet - Hard to get below $7.50/SF installed these days. Say you've got ~3 bedrooms and 1 living room and a handful of closets for at total of 800 SF of carpet. Ballpark $6,000 but you could easily spend 2-5x that for higher quality carpet. Solid flooring - $15 to $20/SF installed for moderate quality LVP. Sky's the limit for hardwood and tile Surprise costs - when you redo your floors, you'll want to redo your baseboards, and may end up wanting or needing to redo the doors and doorframe trim. Expect some subfloor surprises. Your flooring project will probably end up being 1.5x to 2.5x what the material & installation quote is. I'm also assuming you will NOT be acting as your own GC. I don't recommend that unless you have a lot of experts that like you and will tolerate your stumbles when you get the tile guy & the electrician guy in the wrong order What types of projects are you looking to do if not covered above?
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Jan 24, 2022 20:14
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Upgrade posted:Yep - old house, big, tall ceilings. That's still pretty insane. Getting blown insulation in your attic might help a lot if it's not insulated yet - my old house wasn't.
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Jan 24, 2022 20:36
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:Numbers. I am not saying your estimates are off in any way but wow thats a crazy amount of money to re-do a bathroom/kitchen. Thank god my dad is a master electrician and I spent my teens and 20's working construction (mostly custom hardwood and tile) because my wife and I could not afford to pay someone to do most of that work. I've been out of construction for almost 15 years now but still love woodworking and kept most of my tile/hardwood flooring tools so hopefully I can put them to use when we buy a place soon.
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Jan 24, 2022 20:55
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raggedphoto posted:I am not saying your estimates are off in any way but wow thats a crazy amount of money to re-do a bathroom/kitchen. Thank god my dad is a master electrician and I spent my teens and 20's working construction (mostly custom hardwood and tile) because my wife and I could not afford to pay someone to do most of that work. I've been out of construction for almost 15 years now but still love woodworking and kept most of my tile/hardwood flooring tools so hopefully I can put them to use when we buy a place soon. Depending on where you live his numbers may be high, he's used to living in HCOL areas. It's insane right now for the trades. Those numbers are if you can even find someone to do the work, and then if they can find the materials.
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Jan 24, 2022 20:59
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We wouldn't even be considering this if it wasn't for the fact that some of these locations are just really, really good. And in reality, we'd be paying much less than if we were even able to buy the place all fixed up in the same location. Which again, isn't likely as these types of locations are rare.GoGoGadgetChris posted:Assuming you want to keep costs low but you don't want to just put in new Formica and Linoleum, plan on This is really helpful, thank you. A touch higher than what I was thinking, but not by much. Definitely wouldn't be doing our own GC. The only other big one would likely be a fairly large deck(s), which I know is also very expensive. skipdogg posted:Depending on where you live his numbers may be high, he's used to living in HCOL areas. For sure. We're already leaning towards not doing anything remotely like what we're discussing, but the uncertainty involved is probably going to nix the idea outright. Thanks all. We're still early in the house searching process and this was really more of a start of understanding rather than "hey, we're pulling the trigger on this."
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Jan 24, 2022 21:06
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raggedphoto posted:I am not saying your estimates are off in any way but wow thats a crazy amount of money to re-do a bathroom/kitchen. What really matters is, what do you mean by "re-do" a bathroom or kitchen? It's like asking how much a Vacation costs. Custom bathroom cabinetry with sinks vs plopping in a new pedestal sink is a matter of $15,000 compared to $250. New vanity lighting and a fancy toilet is $1,000; converting a jacuzzi to a walk-in shower with adjacent soaker tub is $25,000. You can refinish your cabinet faces and put a new countertop and backsplash up for $10,000. Or you can change the layout with all new cabinets, counters, appliances, and flooring for $75k. I also lopped off about 10-25% of the costs for my region in my numbers, but maybe PNW is way more inflated than LCOL areas.
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Jan 24, 2022 21:12
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The last time my wife and I got quotes for a kitchen renovation the numbers were so high that it literally would have been cheaper to just take that money and use it to put a down payment down on a newer home with a better kitchen. At least in that case the cost is being spread across 30 years. That's taking into account the ridiculous home prices out there. I could spend 100-150k on a new kitchen that won't boost the value of my home by that amount, and would also leave me without a kitchen, and also might turn out as a disaster because you're always taking a risk with contractors. OR I could add that 100-150k to any money I get from selling my place and just buy a place with a kitchen that is already functional and looks the way I want it. The math also works for building an ADU, or any other giant renovation. The trade prices are just so high that just buying the more expensive house is worth it.
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Jan 24, 2022 22:20
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I ended up having the creeping renovation thing happen, so I got the railings on my deck upgraded to ones that won't kill you, fixed my close-to-washing-away-in-the-creek bridge, replaced rotting-out picture windows and back door, and did an entire attic->finished second floor conversion including doubling up on the joists. Total was ~60k, which I think is pretty good in this market considering I almost doubled my floorspace. Plus while the electrician was there I had him check out all the dumb poo poo the PO did so now I don't have to worry about the place burning down.
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Jan 24, 2022 22:33
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Second place I've got an offer accepted on that ended up being chock full of mold. This time rather than backing out immediately like the last one (they tried to cover up other issues before I could fully investigate) I'm gonna let these folks take a shot at going to their insurance company since a lot of mold was likely caused by a burst pipe. Still super blows though.
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Jan 24, 2022 23:42
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In high COL area... estimates do not assume permiting fees which will vary heavily by city.GoGoGadgetChris posted:Kitchen - $40-$50k for keeping existing cabinets but doing new cabinet faces, counters, appliances, floors. If you want new cabinets, $65k. If you want to change the layout in any way, $75k-$115k. You could spend 2-5x this but these are numbers for middle of the road quartz/flooring/appliances Think: Cabinet material cost: 15k Cabinet labor: 5k Countertop material cost: 5k Countertop labor: 3k Appliances are approximately 10k give or take, and are very easy to install to the point they are not considered. Tile is 6$/sqft install - material cost will be what ever you make of it. quote:Master bathroom - $40k-$50k for keeping the exact footprint but replacing everything. $65-$80k if you're moving the layout at all or converting a tub to a walk-in shower. You could spend 2-5x this of course quote:Solid flooring - $15 to $20/SF installed for moderate quality LVP. Sky's the limit for hardwood and tile
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Jan 25, 2022 09:16
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 01:09 |
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Welp, my first offer on like the second house I saw was accepted. Put in asking, didn’t get outbid. Gonna get that inspection and appraisal rolling. This is very scary.
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Jan 25, 2022 14:03
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