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SubG posted:I guess I don't see that a transcoder is any more of a point of failure than a sound card. The out on your motherboard is a sound card. PCI sound cards are the same thing, just modular. The point of failure is the same (the sound card itself). I don’t know much about this kind of thing, but it seems as though there are plenty of options? 4K HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter, avedio links 1080P HDMI to HDMI Audio Converter + Optical Toslink SPDIF + RCA L/R Stereo Analog Audio, HDMI Audio Adapter for Fire Stick, Blu-Ray Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJITK7E/ https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1614827-REG/dvdo_dvdo_audioe_1_hdmi_2_0_audio_extractor.html
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Jan 28, 2022 17:15
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KrunkMcGrunk posted:I feel this, dude. With my latest build, I bought a new Fractal Meshify 2 Compact to replace my 15ish year old Antec 300, and OH MY GOD. The conveniences and usability in a modern case made it feel like the Antec was a thousand year old relic. i did a rebuild in an Antec 900 after i replaced it with a Fractal Define Mini C. going back to back like that was a trip - i couldn't believe this was considered one of the best cases of the late 2000s. what the gently caress were we thinking back then? nevertheless its still loudly humming along at my office, with its stock garish LED fans and a gtx770 still kicking. the nucas fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 18:04
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old case design was some big brain stuff, giant towers with 8 DVD drive bays and one 92mm intake on the front
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Jan 28, 2022 18:06
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repiv posted:old case design was some big brain stuff, giant towers with 8 DVD drive bays and one 92mm intake on the front i googled around to make sure i was remember the name of it right (antec 300 and 900 were closely related cases) and found a contemporary review praising it for its portable size and light weight 
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Jan 28, 2022 18:08
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KrunkMcGrunk posted:I feel this, dude. With my latest build, I bought a new Fractal Meshify 2 Compact to replace my 15ish year old Antec 300, and OH MY GOD. The conveniences and usability in a modern case made it feel like the Antec was a thousand year old relic. It's great that these kinds of cases are getting less expensive (ignoring current shipping costs), so they're becoming accessible to people who aren't really looking for much beyond a box to put computer parts in. That's doubly-good, as I would not relish returning to cramped antiquated designs. I was pretty anti-RGB for a while too—why spend extra on blinky lights for a "gamer" aesthetic. But I'll admit, the glow make the room look kinda lovely. 
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Jan 28, 2022 18:14
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repiv posted:old case design was some big brain stuff, giant towers with 8 DVD drive bays and one 92mm intake on the front That fan would be recessed with a big grille over it and four undiffused blue LEDs, and a handle molded into the plastic.
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Jan 28, 2022 18:24
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don't forget the acrylic side panel window that scratches if you look at it wrong
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Jan 28, 2022 18:34
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repiv posted:don't forget the acrylic side panel window that scratches if you look at it wrong And a stamped steel construction that can't fit any GPU longer than the PCI-E (or AGP) slot.
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Jan 28, 2022 18:36
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and cable management that is basically just zip-tieing stuff together if you wanna be fancy
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Jan 28, 2022 18:41
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KrunkMcGrunk posted:and cable management that is basically just zip-tieing stuff together if you wanna be fancy If you really wanted to get fancy you bought the circular-sleeved IDE cables with UV reactive plastic...
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Jan 28, 2022 18:52
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 if you looking for CPU, Microcenter has a new deal
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Jan 28, 2022 18:55
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KrunkMcGrunk posted:and cable management that is basically just zip-tieing stuff together if you wanna be fancy I just use the twist ties that come with practically everything that has a cord. They're removable and reusable. Look, I'm saving the environment!
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Jan 28, 2022 19:34
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ImPureAwesome posted:Thanks for the advice both of you! I think that plan makes sense. I'll get the NVME and then if I'm still want more performance I'll pick up the rest of the list. Hello again PC Thread, So, I said gently caress it, and bought all the new parts we talked about not just the NVME reminder: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($279.98 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Scythe FUMA 2 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z690-A GAMING WIFI D4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($349.99 @ ASUS) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($153.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($174.00 @ B&H) Total: $1117.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-01-28 13:31 EST-0500 So I got the Scythe 2 cooler (and it's lga 1700 bracket) and I found that it seems to be incompatible with the Asus ROG STRIX Z690-A GAMING WIFI D4. It's seems to be hitting this part:  when I try to sit it and seems to be an issue with a few coolers with this board and the VRM heatsink height https://www.techspot.com/news/92182-popular-coolers-have-compatibility-issues-asus-z690-b660.html I found some compatibility lists for the ASUS Z690a Noctura and be quiet! (I don't see lists for other manufacturers but I'm open to them) here: Noctura: https://ncc.noctua.at/motherboards/model/ASUS-ROG-Strix-Z690-A-Gaming-WiFi-D4-5375 be quiet: https://www.bequiet.com/en/motherboardcheck DARK ROCK SLIM SHADOW ROCK 3 PURE ROCK 2 Do you guys have any recommendations for coolers out of the actually compatible coolers?
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Jan 28, 2022 20:30
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I have a Dark Rock Slim on my 3600X and really like it, but offhand I don't know what TDP the i5 12600K is going to need. The Dark Rock Slim is listed as a 180W part, for reference.
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Jan 28, 2022 20:59
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Is that a plastic piece on top of the VRM heatsink? Break that poo poo off. Asus has really not impressed me with their purely cosmetic VRM "cooling" that actually worsens VRM temps and ruins cooler compatibility. Honestly, instead of returning the Fuma and getting a new heatsink, I'd just return that motherboard and get something without compatibility issues. With that motherboard and those coolers as options though, I guess I'd go with the Shadow Rock 3. It should be capable of cooling the 12600K without a problem.
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Jan 28, 2022 20:59
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ImPureAwesome posted:Hello again PC Thread, I'm running with a z690 board in a Meshify 2 Compact - the same as your case, but compacter! If you're not against water cooling, I'm using an Arctic Liquid II 280 AIO on my i5 12600k. i've got the radiator mounted against the front of the case (it's too deep to fit along the top, unfortunately) and it works great. You could probably fit the 420 in your case. With either choice, you have to be sure to order the LGA1700 mounting bracket from Arctic.
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Jan 28, 2022 21:10
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The Pirate Captain posted:My Mobo has two 8-pin CPU power connectors and with my old PSU I could only connect one, so maybe that was contributing to the problem? This definitely isn't the problem btw. The 12700k, or indeed pretty much any of the mainstream CPUs, don't need more than 1 8pin connection unless you're doing extreme overclocking.
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Jan 28, 2022 21:16
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Speaking of case chat, I’ve got a very pretty H510 Elite which in its stock form has proven to be immensely unsuitable for a 3080 Ti FE, with it hitting 83c while throttling and being very noisy. Taking off the front glass dropped it to 73-74c with it running much quieter and boosting 100Mhz+ higher. I feel like NZXT would surely be able to make good money selling the Flow front panels individually, given that I’ve purchased a whole flow case for £70 in order to shuck the front panel and hope I can make some money back selling the rest of it on - my only other option being to pay someone off Etsy even more for an acrylic panel.
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Jan 28, 2022 21:27
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ImPureAwesome posted:Hello again PC Thread, Sorry this isn't more helpful but when I've had issues like this in the past, and it was the fan itself hitting something, I just moved the fan position higher up on the cooler. If this lets you mount the cooler and get on with your life I figured it was worth mentioning. I had the hyper 212 Evo for what it's worth.
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Jan 28, 2022 21:28
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CaptainSarcastic posted:I have a Dark Rock Slim on my 3600X and really like it, but offhand I don't know what TDP the i5 12600K is going to need. The Dark Rock Slim is listed as a 180W part, for reference. According to a few reviews tpd seems to be 150W: https://www.club386.com/intel-core-i5-12600k-review/ Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Is that a plastic piece on top of the VRM heatsink? Break that poo poo off. Asus has really not impressed me with their purely cosmetic VRM "cooling" that actually worsens VRM temps and ruins cooler compatibility. Honestly, instead of returning the Fuma and getting a new heatsink, I'd just return that motherboard and get something without compatibility issues. I haven't even turned the board on yet, I don't want to be breaking stuff until I know it works, besides I'd assume there's a heatsink beneath the plastic, though I guess I don't know for sure. I got the Fuma through Amazon so the return should be pretty painless not as sure about B&H I got the board from. KrunkMcGrunk posted:I'm running with a z690 board in a Meshify 2 Compact - the same as your case, but compacter! If you're not against water cooling, I'm using an Arctic Liquid II 280 AIO on my i5 12600k. i've got the radiator mounted against the front of the case (it's too deep to fit along the top, unfortunately) and it works great. You could probably fit the 420 in your case. With either choice, you have to be sure to order the LGA1700 mounting bracket from Arctic. I don't know the first thing about water-cooling and I'd be afraid of screwing something up and getting water everywhere, thanks though. VelociBacon posted:Sorry this isn't more helpful but when I've had issues like this in the past, and it was the fan itself hitting something, I just moved the fan position higher up on the cooler. If this lets you mount the cooler and get on with your life I figured it was worth mentioning. I had the hyper 212 Evo for what it's worth. Unfortuately its not a fan issue, it's this part of the cooler here:  I guess I'll get either the Dark Rock Slim or Shadow Rock 3. Do you think I can reuse the lga 1700 bracket I got for the Scythe or do I need to figure out a be quiet one?
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Jan 28, 2022 21:39
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The white bit is plastic, the grey bit is metal. There's no guarantee that will fix the problem though, yeah. I just get mad at Asus for their dumb overbuilt VRM heatsinks. I think you will need to contact Be Quiet for a LGA1700-compatible bracket. They send those out for free, and I heard the shipping is pretty fast on them (just a couple days?).
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Jan 28, 2022 21:48
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This is an aside, but I was a little surprised how fuckoff huge the Dark Rock Slim is - somehow seeing pictures and measurements didn't make me appreciate how big coolers have gotten. The only thing in my case bigger than the cooler is my 3-fan 2070 Super. The Dark Rock Slim fits perfectly, and I don't remember the mounting being too bad - it clears my RAM without problem, and isn't hard to work around, but holy hell is it a monolith and almost touches the glass side panel of my case.
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Jan 28, 2022 21:59
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The white bit is plastic, the grey bit is metal. There's no guarantee that will fix the problem though, yeah. I just get mad at Asus for their dumb overbuilt VRM heatsinks. Be mad at the infantile consumer base in this hobby because these companies absolutely are doing market testing and analysis and are working off data that supports these decisions (to make worse products so they sell more). I'm mad at gigabyte for their mobos because the dual bios thing is horribly implemented and the UEFI is the worst around.
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Jan 28, 2022 22:04
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KrunkMcGrunk posted:I feel this, dude. With my latest build, I bought a new Fractal Meshify 2 Compact to replace my 15ish year old Antec 300, and OH MY GOD. The conveniences and usability in a modern case made it feel like the Antec was a thousand year old relic. Can either or both of you elaborate on this a little? I built my first machine in 2012 (Fractal Define R3) and my dad's a year later (Define R4), and my next machine last year in a be quiet! Pure Base 500DX. Time has faded my memory of those first two builds in relation to conveniences vs now, but aside from some less sharp edges internally in the 500DX, it all felt pretty much the same to me.
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Jan 28, 2022 22:28
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ImPureAwesome posted:
two weeks ago, I didn't either. if you get an AIO cooler, like the one I mentioned, it all comes as one piece, pre-filled. You don't have to futz with anything outside of mounting the radiator, as you would any case fan, and mounting the heatsink to the CPU, as you would any CPU fan. it's honestly dead simple. don't be intimidated by the water thing, it's a complete non-issue. KrunkMcGrunk fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 22:37
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Can either or both of you elaborate on this a little? I built my first machine in 2012 (Fractal Define R3) and my dad's a year later (Define R4), and my next machine last year in a be quiet! Pure Base 500DX. Time has faded my memory of those first two builds in relation to conveniences vs now, but aside from some less sharp edges internally in the 500DX, it all felt pretty much the same to me. in-case cable management is far, far better (which is really the biggest thing, imo). cases now also come with more places to mount fans for intake/exhaust. it's much easier to get at things connected to your mobo, and also to physically install harddrives and such. filtration is also much better-my Meshify 2 compact came with dust filters on the top, front, and bottom of the case, vs. my old Antec only having a dust filter on the front, which was somewhat of a new thing at the time as well. it also seemed much easier to take the entire thing apart and rearrange stuff like the hard drive cage to my liking.
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Jan 28, 2022 22:40
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ImPureAwesome posted:I don't know the first thing about water-cooling and I'd be afraid of screwing something up and getting water everywhere, thanks though. In case it changes anything, it’s very difficult to screw up badly enough that it would leak. I just installed my first one, and it’s not extraordinarily more complex than a traditional heatsink. The unit connects to the CPU in basically the same way and then there are two tubes with the liquid that lead to a fan that you attach to the case (pro tip - attach the fans first, I did CPU first and getting the fans in was a bit tough). I did manage to screw something up and it wasn’t cooling properly, but this thread helped me troubleshoot and there was never a point that there was any risk of leakage.
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Jan 28, 2022 22:41
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yeah, i guess the "trickiest" thing about mounting an AIO is being sure your CPU heatsink is lower than the highest point on your radiator so you don't burn out the turbine in the CPU heatsink faster than you would otherwise.
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Jan 28, 2022 22:45
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Completely mad idea here but bear with me. I built my RyZ3n 5600x machine with 16GB 3200MHz RAM on an MSI B550-A Pro on 10th February 2021. Would it be loving mental of me to sell the CPU and motherboard, and buy a 12600K and equivalent motherboard now? I'm not gaming on this thing and the performance is lovely, but for the first time in a decade, a year-on-year upgrade actually seems possibly something to consider? WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 22:45
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you can do what you like, but z690 boards are a tad more expensive than they otherwise would be right now. they're not like, GPU levels of inflated, but a board that would've gone for like $200 pre-2020 is like $350 now.
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Jan 28, 2022 22:48
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Thanks maybe I'll consider it next time, I just went with a Dark Rock Slim for now
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Jan 28, 2022 22:49
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Completely mad idea here but bear with me. I built my RyZ3n 5600x machine with 16GB 3200MHz RAM on an MSI B550-A Pro on 10th February 2021. why do you want to do this
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Jan 28, 2022 22:53
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:why do you want to do this It's not a want, it's a question! Your response makes me think it's loving madness... I take it the cost and bother aren't worth it?
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Jan 28, 2022 23:12
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WattsvilleBlues posted:It's not a want, it's a question! Your response makes me think it's loving madness... I take it the cost and bother aren't worth it? it is a marginal upgrade for a not insignificant amount of money
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Jan 28, 2022 23:16
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WattsvilleBlues posted:It's not a want, it's a question! Your response makes me think it's loving madness... It's a waste since there's not a huge leap in performance. 12th gen is nice but it doesn't eclipse the Ryzen 5000 series, it's just a better value for the price point right now. In general I've found since I've been building computers for 20+ years that it's not worth upgrading a PC until it's not doing what you want it to, which I find is usually 3-5 years or so. If you want to spend a couple of hundred bucks on computer hardware you can stop by the monitor, mouse, and keyboard threads. If you want to future proof, take the money and stop by the long term investing/retirement thread where you can put it towards something will buy you a new Ryzen 8000 or Intel 15th gen or whatever is out in 2024-5.
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Jan 28, 2022 23:18
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No need for further advice, my friends, no need. I have been given the advice I need! Only reason I asked really is because Sandy Bridge and is ilk were still relevant for quite a few years, and now... BOOF... we have competition. I will sit atop my 5600x crown and slide quietly into the sunset.
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Jan 28, 2022 23:43
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Can either or both of you elaborate on this a little? I built my first machine in 2012 (Fractal Define R3) and my dad's a year later (Define R4), and my next machine last year in a be quiet! Pure Base 500DX. Time has faded my memory of those first two builds in relation to conveniences vs now, but aside from some less sharp edges internally in the 500DX, it all felt pretty much the same to me. Krunk basically summed it up for me. My first case was much worse than yours (and I'm jealous). I bought this one, the cheapest thing I could find at the time ($35 CAD in 2011). The following picture isn't mine, but the inside basically looked the same except with an ATX board, GPU, more drives, and even more cables.  Source Seeing this interior again literally made me shudder. Adding/removing drives was a huge chore—they had to be inserted from where the motherboard is, and often involved disconnecting and removing the GPU because it was obstructing everything. Actually, adding or removing nearly anything required disconnecting cables because of non-existent cable management and because some wires were too short to tidy. The PSU on top made the whole case top-heavy and awkward to move, which you wanted to do whenever you worked on it. Ventilation wasn't too great either. The side panel was perforated in two spots: one above the CPU, with a big plastic funnel for dedicated air (this could get caught up in wires whenever I removed the side panel). The other perforation was beside the GPU, which I attached a fan to for better airflow (which I'd have to be careful not to yank out whenever removing the side panel). I remember having a hard time trying to get a fan in the front. With the drive rack cramping everything, I dreaded having to go in there and do anything to it, knowing the mess and space constraints that I was going to have to deal with. And I had a lot of poo poo in there. My next case was the Cougar MX330 in 2019, and was better in nearly every conceivable way—air flow, fan placement, roomy—but especially in cable management. That busted-up one I posted a few times itt is actually the very same case. I even bought a second one for the kid's rig. The Montech Air 100 I just bought is even easier to get into with a hinged side panel, has lots of room and tools for cable management, and had the fans pre-installed. Also it's a bit less tall (mATX) and less long (no drives to worry about), but still roomy to work in. Also it looks sharp. Well that was a lot of loving words.
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Jan 28, 2022 23:50
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Absolute disaster migrating to the new SSD - was in the process of moving my old install from the MBR format to GPT so I could clone the drive, and something happened and the whole windows installation ended up corrupted. RIP. So, I got a USB drive and put a Windows ISO on there and tried to repair it. No luck, apparently the whole windows install is screwed. Instead, I’ve done a fresh install on the new M.2 drive. Here’s my question - is there any way I can migrate the old windows install to the new one? I still have my old drives plugged in with all my files intact. Problem is I can’t just clone the old windows drive because the windows install is ruined and won’t boot. However I’d like to at least transfer across my old drivers/programs/settings. Things like my screens for example, I spent ages getting the colours accurate. I’d hate to have to do that again when I know all that info is just sitting on my other drive. I’ve got Acronis True Image which came with my new WD drive. Is there anything I can do with that or another program to try and make this easier?
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Jan 29, 2022 00:07
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feedmegin posted:In my experience people doing professional audio use USB (to separate chunky large boxes with lots of inputs and outputs). Pilfered Pallbearers posted:The out on your motherboard is a sound card. PCI sound cards are the same thing, just modular. The point of failure is the same (the sound card itself). feedmegin posted:I don’t know much about this kind of thing, but it seems as though there are plenty of options?
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Jan 29, 2022 00:10
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smenj posted:Absolute disaster migrating to the new SSD - was in the process of moving my old install from the MBR format to GPT so I could clone the drive, and something happened and the whole windows installation ended up corrupted. RIP. I'd start by copying over your user, app data, and program files directories from your old drive to your new one. Stuff like your desktop and start menu should go back to how they were. As for color calibration settings, go to Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color in your old install and copy and paste the ICM files from there to the same directory in your new install (edit: or you could just double click them to re-add the profiles they contain). You can then enable those with the "Color Management" app. Once you have everything copied over that you think you'll need, you can get rid of the windows install on your old drive by right clicking it in windows explorer, going to properties, then "disk cleanup" in the general tab, and click on "Clean up system files" to show the option for removing previous windows installs. (don't do this until you're absolutely sure that you don't need anything else from your old install) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Jan 29, 2022 |
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Jan 29, 2022 00:16
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