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Can somebody please give me some pointers on how to run through the insurance claims process with Geico? I hit a deer earlier this evening and potentially totaled my 2013 Toyota Tacoma. Is there anything I should keep in mind regarding negotiations or will I just get what I get? I've never filed a claim before so I'm not sure what to ask or say. I do have full coverage with a 500 dollar deductible so I should be good coverage wise. I'm hoping the truck isn't totaled and I can get it repaired because it's the first vehicle I've bought and paid off and I have some sentimental attachment to it.
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Jan 27, 2022 04:50
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| # ? May 30, 2024 07:55 |
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Deer/animal strikes are filed under you comprehensive coverage, not collision. The biggest thing is time & delay. A lot of companies are short-staffed because of the pandemic & the stubborn inability of insurers to recognize that it is a strong employee's market, so they may take longer to get to your car & evaluate it. If it is a total loss: gather your vehicle's information and see how much it's currently going for. Auto adjusters are all using the same valuation books/databases and they're fairly accurate if the data is correct. Make sure the mileage, make, style, year, options are all correct on their paperwork. They undervalued my 02' CR-V by $2500 because they either didn't read or mis-read the odometer. The current market is volatile in a way few have ever seen, and the books may be a little behind the curve. T/L evaluations are now electronic (I looked up the values in the NADA & Kelly books a million years ago to get an average & added/subtracted for condition & mileage) so they may have already baked it in (Exactimate, the estimating system most of us use for writing building damage estimates, has absolutely accounted for the surge in material prices since early 2020; I'm seeing some stunning increases). Be mindful that new (recently installed) wear parts mean nothing. They may err, but they won't try to rip you off. If you get hung up or feel that you're in way over your head of being BSed, PM me right away. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jan 27, 2022 |
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Jan 27, 2022 05:22
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PainterofCrap posted:They may err, but they won't try to rip you off. this seems optimistic ive never had anything worth insuring above liability, but from others' experiences i don't think they always play fair for example, i have a friend who had a super clean e30, got rear ended, and couldnt even get half of what the car was worth. the insurance people used ads from the rustbelt of cars with twice the mileage to try to value his clean california car, and refused any of the ads he submitted for comparison the system is often stacked against the victim. probably some adjusters do all they can for people, but not all are operating in good faith
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Jan 27, 2022 08:51
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On the other hand, I had insurance bend over backwards to fix my car after a deer strike because in my state, my car was old enough that if it was totalled, I could buy it back from my insurance for a pittance. Apparently they really didn't want to give me a check for the value of the car and also let me keep the wreck because they paid almost $1000 more than the car was valued at to get it repaired at the body shop
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Jan 27, 2022 12:37
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Raluek posted:this seems optimistic Fair. The Door Frame posted:On the other hand, I had insurance bend over backwards to fix my car after a deer strike because in my state, my car was old enough that if it was totalled, I could buy it back from my insurance for a pittance. Apparently they really didn't want to give me a check for the value of the car and also let me keep the wreck because they paid almost $1000 more than the car was valued at to get it repaired at the body shop It happened quite frequently that due to "repair creep" that we were so far into repairing what looked like a $3000 hit on a $10000 vehicle that we wound up running over what would have been the typical cutoff for totalling a car (35%-50% of the replacement cost value). How much we got for totalling it was never our concern. The decision to total a vehicle vs. repair was the most difficult when we suspected hidden damage but just couldn't find it on the initial inspection. The cutoff was dependent on upper management - some firms would set it lower (25-35%) to make it easier on us but also to avoid lengthy repair times & the costs associated with such delays (chiefly, rental car fees and storage charges).
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Jan 27, 2022 17:10
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I called my insurance company this morning and they are sending an adjuster out. Here's some pics of the damage: https://twitter.com/VargatronXIV/status/1486737418850119684 The truck was in pretty good condition beforehand with about 130k miles on it, so maybe it will evaluate high. I called around some body shops and it's like 2-4 weeks to even get started on a repair job. I asked Geico to send an adjuster out while I call around and get somebody to take it in. I'm a bit sore today but nothing too bad. I was just so tensed up after I hit the deer. At least I'm safe. Thanks for the advice all.
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Jan 27, 2022 17:43
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Oh, that's good news! That's not a total loss. I've fixed worse than that in my driveway (on older cars - not in a proper shop/matched paint way).
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Jan 27, 2022 17:54
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I've got a 2014 F150 4x4, ecoboost. Right at 60k miles, need to change the oil, and figured I should make sure other 60k service interval stuff gets done. Contacted a local shop, who sent back a scope of work + estimate that came to ~$1100 ($650 labor $450 parts) to do the expected stuff (check/inspect a bunch of poo poo, replace oil, oil filter, air filter, rotate tires. It also included changing transmission, front and rear differential, and transfer case fluid. The labor estimate isn't broken down but those fluid changes account for $350 of the parts cost. The Ford manual says these services are at 150k, not 60k; pretty big difference. Is this a case where I should be proactive and do the maintenance despite what Ford says, or are they just trying to get more money? If it's "eh you don't need to but it's not unreasonable" then I'll probably say thanks but no thanks on the trans/diff/transfer case fluid but have them do the rest, but if it's just totally unnecessary then I will probably take it elsewhere or do the oil change, filter changes, and tire rotation myself.
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Jan 27, 2022 20:38
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Got in contact with the other driver's adjustor this morning, they're cooperating so I'm no longer catastrophizing over them not having real insurance. Now I've moved on to anxiety over getting a proper repair with a good matching repaint and recovering diminished value.
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Jan 27, 2022 22:29
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tactlessbastard posted:Got in contact with the other driver's adjustor this morning, they're cooperating so I'm no longer catastrophizing over them not having real insurance. You're not getting DV on a 7+ year old car. And it doesn't matter if their insurance is any good because YOU have insurance that covers this.
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Jan 27, 2022 22:48
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Motronic posted:You're not getting DV on a 7+ year old car. And it doesn't matter if their insurance is any good because YOU have insurance that covers this. Even with only 30k miles on it? Agh, this process is going to drive me out of my goddamned mind.
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Jan 27, 2022 23:36
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Idk how it works in the us but in The Netherlands basic coverage is mandatory so whenever a collision needs handled you fill in the collision report and the insurance companies work it out between them.
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Jan 27, 2022 23:41
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tactlessbastard posted:Even with only 30k miles on it? Agh, this process is going to drive me out of my goddamned mind. I mean......MAYBE you will, but I found a pretty decent rundown of this that matches what I know of the process: https://www.bankrate.com/insurance/car/diminished-value-claim/ Let's use their numbers: you're starting with 10%. So if this car is worth $18000 then we begin with $1,800 max payout. Now it's got 30k miles on it, so 80 percent of that. So we're at $1,440. Let's call that moderate damage to panels. It's probably minor. But let's go moderate. You're now at $720. Best case. Do you want to push an elephant up a hill for $700?
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Jan 27, 2022 23:55
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Motronic posted:I mean......MAYBE you will, but I found a pretty decent rundown of this that matches what I know of the process: https://www.bankrate.com/insurance/car/diminished-value-claim/ I feel like it would be worth an hour of my time to draft a quick paragraph and send it ideally via certified mail to my insurance or the other party's, sure. If the answer's no then I won't fight it but it's worth asking for DV. I haven't done it before though.
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Jan 28, 2022 00:01
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I too would be happy to do work for $700/hr. It's not going to be an hour.
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Jan 28, 2022 00:16
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What's the best way to vet automatic transmissions when looking for a used car? My sister is looking to get a "new" car and it's definitely in the price range where tranny issues can come up.
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Jan 28, 2022 02:40
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DildenAnders posted:What's the best way to vet automatic transmissions when looking for a used car? My sister is looking to get a "new" car and it's definitely in the price range where tranny issues can come up. try not to buy cars with known transmission issues, common failures at high mileage, etc dont buy a car if the transmission case is visibly covered in leaked fluids
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Jan 28, 2022 02:44
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DildenAnders posted:What's the best way to vet automatic transmissions when looking for a used car? My sister is looking to get a "new" car and it's definitely in the price range where tranny issues can come up. Test drive it. The transmission should shift smoothly and reliably. If it seems to slip when accelerating or shudder or shift abruptly or anything else weird, pass on it.
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Jan 28, 2022 03:39
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Deteriorata posted:Test drive it. The transmission should shift smoothly and reliably. If it seems to slip when accelerating or shudder or shift abruptly or anything else weird, pass on it. Make sure it's at operating temp for a bit first. Also: avoid CVTs like the, uh, plague.
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Jan 28, 2022 04:22
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Also, look up how to check the fluid (probably needs to be hot and running but that's not always the case) and check it for both level and condition.
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Jan 28, 2022 04:50
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I'm considering having the place my NC got towed to just repair the suspension and wheel, and then driving it to a different shop that has much better reviews for bodywork and painting. Does anyone think that would be a bad idea? I dont want the place to police sent it to painting it, and I don't want it getting towed again because they already did more damage to it once dragging it onto the flatbed and back off.
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Jan 28, 2022 09:35
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Hit and run person walked in and confessed at the police station. It was in fact a Subaru. AI success story.
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Jan 28, 2022 15:06
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Insurance is covering my truck repair. Estimate was $4500 plus incidentals up to $6000. Which I guess means that my truck's value was near 9 or 10k I'm guessing. So relieved it wasn't totaled.
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Jan 28, 2022 15:13
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Shyfted One posted:Hit and run person walked in and confessed at the police station. It was in fact a Subaru. AI success story. Dang that's awesome. Pretty surprised they turned themselves in, unless it was a kid who wrecked and a parent forcing them to do the right thing.
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Jan 28, 2022 15:49
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Enos Cabell posted:Dang that's awesome. Pretty surprised they turned themselves in, unless it was a kid who wrecked and a parent forcing them to do the right thing. They would have been found out at the body shop anyway. The needed time to sober up. That's all this was.
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Jan 28, 2022 16:50
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I just assume most hit and run types aren't getting those cars fixed if they are good enough to drive away. At least in a non-inspection state like I live in where any old poo poo heap can get registration.
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Jan 28, 2022 17:04
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tactlessbastard posted:I'm considering having the place my NC got towed to just repair the suspension and wheel, and then driving it to a different shop that has much better reviews for bodywork and painting. Does anyone think that would be a bad idea? I dont want the place to police sent it to painting it, and I don't want it getting towed again because they already did more damage to it once dragging it onto the flatbed and back off. Moving it won't make that much difference. Get it to your shop. They'll fix it all as part of the loss. spankmeister posted:Idk how it works in the us but in The Netherlands basic coverage is mandatory so whenever a collision needs handled you fill in the collision report and the insurance companies work it out between them. It largely works that way here, especially if both cars have collision...there are folks that live in a fantasy world though, that pretend that the accident never happened & don't report it. Required basic coverage in the US is liability...though anything with a lienholder on it - the L/H requires collision. Depends on the age & the lender (as in, you buy from a weekly pay place - not sure what they do now). Motronic posted:They would have been found out at the body shop anyway. The needed time to sober up. That's all this was. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 17:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:Also, look up how to check the fluid (probably needs to be hot and running but that's not always the case) and check it for both level and condition. This is a pretty hilarious proposition sometimes because (for example) there literally is no dipstick to check the transmission fluid on my 2016 Ford Fusion. There is a fill cap on top, a "fill level plug" on the driver's side and a drain plug on the bottom and that's it. It's not a CVT, either (it's a 6F35). So you have to have a jack/jack stand or some kind of lift to lift the car, remove the wheel on the driver's side, have the engine running and warm and then open that plug on the side to check the level of the fluid. Which is all kinds of hosed up because then you have to add more fluid to replace whatever comes running out if the whoever did the transmission fluid replacement before overfilled the transmission (the "correct" level is "just enough to trickle slowly out of the level plug hole"). So if you're looking at Ford passenger cars between 2009-2020 with similar transmissions (this transmission is the same in the Escape, Fusion, Focus, C-Max and Kuda in all those year models except the ones that use a CVT for whatever reason a given year at a given trim level/with whatever engine they decided would use a CVT instead) then maybe skip them if you're worried about transmission damage because that's a lot of poo poo that a private seller is highly unlikely to let you do/etc. EDIT: Also some of the Transit Connect Vans that Ford sells would use the same transmission. EDIT 2: Basically any vehicle with a 6F35 transmission type would be set up the same way. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 19:44
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biracial bear for uncut posted:This is a pretty hilarious proposition sometimes because (for example) there literally is no dipstick to check the transmission fluid on my 2016 Ford Fusion. There is a fill cap on top, a "fill level plug" on the driver's side and a drain plug on the bottom and that's it. It's not a CVT, either (it's a 6F35). This is extremely common across all brands AFAIK. Especially manual transmissions, I don't know that I've ever seen a manual tranny dipstick.
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Jan 28, 2022 21:36
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PainterofCrap posted:
When my Si got sideswiped by a drunk driver while parked on the street over night, my insurance company didnt believe that all the damage was caused by that one incident. They insisted that the damage they saw in the pictures must have occurred accords multiple incidents. They were on the verge of accusing me of fraud. It took some shoe-leather detective work (I wore a trenchcoat to do this) of going door-to-door asking neighbors if they saw or heard anything that night. Amazingly, I found a bartender who had just gotten off work at 4am and was rolling a joint on his porch when he heard a massive crash and saw a battered car limping down the street. I gave the insurance company his phone number, and they backed off. Point is, always find witnesses and document the poo poo out of everything
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Jan 28, 2022 21:57
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VelociBacon posted:This is extremely common across all brands AFAIK. Especially manual transmissions, I don't know that I've ever seen a manual tranny dipstick. That wouldn't be that surprising given that 6T/6F** transmissions were a GM/Ford cooperative project that started back in... 2002 I think to produce unified transmission designs for various vehicles at different torque/horsepower ratings. That would cover a shitload of different, but still very common, passenger cars/trucks/etc.
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Jan 28, 2022 22:31
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VelociBacon posted:This is extremely common across all brands AFAIK. Especially manual transmissions, I don't know that I've ever seen a manual tranny dipstick. It used to be that you checked the level with the car in park and idling. That would be the only reason for a dipstick on an auto I think other than leaks. It makes sense to me not having on on a manual since you don't have to risk life and limb checking it while running.
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Jan 29, 2022 00:15
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I enjoy the asinine procedure with the NAG1 transmission. First, you must purchase the dipstick tool. Which is longer (in many cases a lot longer) than a dipstick so you must go by feel to determine when in fact you really do have it inserted properly because a foot of the tool is still hanging out. Then hook up the computer to determine the temperature is +/- around a couple degrees while doing it. All leading to a situation that causes overfilling. When it gets warmer I'm going to do a ZF8. Doesn't look too bad, well besides the fact that the filter is part of the pan which is plastic so you need to buy a whole new pan then get it up to temp and fill until it dribbles out.
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Jan 29, 2022 13:08
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C-Bangin' it 
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Do you figure this turd was written off, repaired, inspected, registered, and then written off again within 3 months or do you think it's slow reporting fuckery? e: hit 12k and no sale, lmfao. 200k km SRT-8 grand cherokee with all that fuckery on there and they wanted more. Powershift fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Jan 29, 2022 |
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Jan 29, 2022 18:16
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Powershift posted:Do you figure this turd was written off, repaired, inspected, registered, and then written off again within 3 months or do you think it's slow reporting fuckery? I find it hard to believe it's slow reporting given the mileage increments between the incidents.
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Jan 29, 2022 18:22
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Enos Cabell posted:I just assume most hit and run types aren't getting those cars fixed if they are good enough to drive away. At least in a non-inspection state like I live in where any old poo poo heap can get registration. AI deduced it was a late model (2018-19 I think?) Subaru involved IIRC - people are going to notice unrepaired damage on a car that new. biracial bear for uncut posted:EDIT: Also some of the Transit Connect Vans that Ford sells would use the same transmission. Didn't the full size Transit use them as well? We have a few 2019s with the 3.7/6 speed. Not a fan of how soft they shift, I know they won't last long with how we beat on them and how much weight we're throwing in. Our leasing company already sent 2 of them to auction instead of turning them into rental vehicles, with <60k on them. All the newer ones have a 10 speed, mix of 3.5 Ecoboost and 3.5 NA (I think we have two Ecoboosts left). The 10 speeds will firm up the shifts considerably if you're giving it the beans, the 3.7s w/6 speeds shift like a Town Car no matter what you're doing to them.
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Jan 29, 2022 18:39
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jeeves, if a car is getting towed and the wheels are all rotating along the road, does the odometer still roll?
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Jan 29, 2022 23:51
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The Voice of Labor posted:jeeves, if a car is getting towed and the wheels are all rotating along the road, does the odometer still roll? In old fashioned cars where the speedometer and odometer are driven from the drivetrain with a spinning cable, yes. The cable usually comes out of the output side of the transmission, since that's the thing that spins at a speed consistent with your road speed, and that half of the transmission will be spinning if the wheels are turning even if you're rolling along in neutral. In a front wheel drive car, if you have the front wheels up and are towing on the rears, no the odometer will not turn. But in a rear-wheel drive car, with the front wheels up and the transmission in neutral, it will. In a modern car with an electronic odometer, I don't think it will advance with the car turned off. Maybe there are some cars out there that perpetually power their speedometer/odometer sensor even if the car is off? In that case you could take out the battery to get it to stop rolling over. But I suspect that most cars only read from the sensor when they're running. This is yet another reason that an hours-meter like in an airplane or tractor is better than an odometer.
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Jan 30, 2022 00:44
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Yeah man, I would love an automotive Hobbs meter, even if I can just get to it with ODB. Some of the newer products from.... Stellantis? Ford? have an hours meter in the infotainment, which is sick.
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Jan 30, 2022 00:49
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1995 Toyota Rav4, 5 door. I'm putting a towbar on it but I can't find information on where the connector wiring is fed into the cabin for these early ones. If anybody knows, please tell me? As for why I'm doing it, it's a very long story and this is my absolute last ditch option. It's only going to be pulling a small but sturdy box trailer so it should be fine.
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Jan 30, 2022 01:29
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