|
Zorro KingOfEngland posted:If you're a hobbyist working on 10 projects that need to be editable at the same time, I don't think you're a hobbyist. You can swap between editable and read only in about 5 seconds. Well, the use case is that I want to edit documents. This is not an uncommon need, so interfering with me when I try to edit documents means I delete their shitware and keep looking.
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 04:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 01:08 |
|
|
Looks like I get more or less a full license as an educator, although I'm going to have to wait until I get my 2022 ID to confirm that. Vaporware posted:I printed the lack mk2 as my first project and it took yeah about a week but I was only printing while I could watch it. Also the presliced files from Prusa take sightly more than a KG (even skipping the MMU stuff) which lol I should have looked into at the beginning. Yeah, my current policy is only if someone is home, although I do run it overnight. Smoke detector is right above it - finally got around to buying one. I haven't bought any acrylic in a couple months but I haven't found it to be too dear, even paying the  tax. I do have access to a table saw at work so can cut it down myself if needed. I've also got the stuff to cut glass at home but my results have been... mixed with that so far, so probably just gonna stick with the acrylic. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Jan 29, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 04:30
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:Question for anyone who has done the Lack enclosure: people on the Ender 3 subreddit are ballparking 40 hours of printing for the parts, but I loaded one of the four risers (there's another set of four as well, plus plenty of other parts) and Cura told me 9 hours at 20% infill for just the one. Am I missing something? Since most of the pieces are structural I'm not keen on reducing infill much more than that. Layer thickness (layer height?) affects print time drastically. Thicker layers -> less layers -> less print time. My prusa slicer is showing 0.20mm as "normal", 0.16mm as "optimal" and 0.12mm as "detail". 0.24 "DRAFT" is probably good enough for enclosure parts. Don't know what this setting is called in Cura.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 06:09
|
|
|
Obviously I can't actually print at these speeds but I'm amazed that I can move 800mm/s with 8k acceleration on this bloody voron 0.1 Just need to sort out how fast I can actually print reasonably w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Jan 29, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 06:31
|
|
|
well it seems I can print things....except either my lift speed is too much or my supports aren't good enough. pre-supported items are fine, but I have to go uber-chonk supports to print anything worth printing
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 07:28
|
|
|
Javid posted:Must be this, which caused me to immediately delete this crap and resume using onshape: I, a hobbyist, have found that limitation to be completely trivial. Like others have said, it’s a couple of clicks and 5 seconds to switch a file from one status to the other. I get for a maker space where maybe there are a bunch of people using the same piece of software this could present issues but even then, doesn’t seem hard to work around unless there’s something I’m not considering. CAM stuff, export formats the mesh editing limitations I could see biting some people more, but I saw a vid the other day showing three separate mesh editing workflows, one of which was for the free version, so it seems there are still ways to get that done, they just may not be as straightforward. I guess their dilemma is that if they already suspect there are people who should be paying who aren’t, then if they include more features at a hobby level with a lower price, the people who were exploiting it before may just pay the hobby price, use it commercially, and feel absolved because they’re paying? Or maybe they’re an evil corporation, I dunno. For me thus far, F360 has been great and it’s what I’d recommend to any other newcomer to the area. 🤷🏻♂️
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 08:34
|
|
|
insta posted:My whole point to mentioning that was the 0.0's config is set to limit it to 60%, and if he didn't change that, he's getting 60% of a 60W bed instead of 60% of a 100W bed. I don't know why you're bringing up instantaneous power in this case. Partly because it's a decent portion of Robert's write up, and his dislike of the Voron approach of PWM limited high draw beds. That said, I doubt he'd have published with such an error because he expressly called it out as a design choice he doesn't agree with. I don't know with authority either way, so I'll let the Hungarian drink with the Russian about it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 08:54
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:Or maybe they’re an evil corporation, I dunno.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 12:56
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:They kind of are. F360 used to have just a few advanced features hidden behind the paywall back in the early days, but they've been methodically taking functionality out of the free version after people got themselves hooked into the whole ecosystem (much as everyone had been predicting they'd eventually do) and charging more for less as time passes. It's still probably the best CAD deal running out there, but compared to what it started out as, it's kind of a joke now. I've seen people calling patches "downdates" because they're often used to move popular features to the paid model rather than adding any actual value. No such thing as a free lunch, and all. Like you say, the userbase saw it coming from a mile away, so it's not like anyone can be particularly surprised. Not to say it doesn't suck if you're attached to a feature which is moved behind the paywall, but it seems to me it was always just a matter of time as the product was developed and became more mature and fuller featured.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 14:12
|
|
|
Ima just shill for Rhino again, because their licensing scheme is extremely straightforward: you buy it, you own it forever. If you buy rhino 7 you'll get free updates until rhino 8 comes out in a couple of years, and after that you can pay a pittance to upgrade or just keep using version 7 as long as you want. The files are backwards and forwards compatible for the most part, so there's no forced upgrading. And if you are in any way connected to an educational institution, it's even better: instead of $1,000, the license costs $150, and it's identical to the commercial version in every way. You can use it forever, you can use it for paid work, everything. It just says educational in the window title bar. The only arguable downside of rhino is that it's optimized for free form surface modeling, not mechanical CAD work. It can certainly do mechanical stuff, just not as efficiently as something like Fusion or SolidWorks. If Rhino also had a parametric modeling kernel like SolidWorks I would probably never use anything else.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 20:32
|
|
|
Had to get a new fridge, quickly whipped up some extensions for the feet so I could actually level it. These sorts of small, custom pieces are really the most amazing part of 3D printing, because they can very easily solve small issues where everything else would be a lot more complicated.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 21:00
|
|
|
If Ive got too much material on my top/bottom layers to the point of it ridging, should I just be turning down my extrusion multiplier? Or could that be some other setting I havent thought of. (Currently at 400mm/a 8k accel on this thing) w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Jan 29, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 21:33
|
|
|
mewse posted:Layer thickness (layer height?) affects print time drastically. Thicker layers -> less layers -> less print time. My prusa slicer is showing 0.20mm as "normal", 0.16mm as "optimal" and 0.12mm as "detail". 0.24 "DRAFT" is probably good enough for enclosure parts. Don't know what this setting is called in Cura. Ahhh, that makes sense. It's a very accessible slider I've been just leaving alone. Cura also seems to default to .20mm (or maybe I set it up like that initially). Would switching to a .8mm nozzle also help? Also, I can't see any discernable difference side-by-side in the leg brackets I printed at 100% and 150% speed, so gonna crank that. Sagebrush posted:Ima just shill for Rhino again, because their licensing scheme is extremely straightforward: you buy it, you own it forever. If you buy rhino 7 you'll get free updates until rhino 8 comes out in a couple of years, and after that you can pay a pittance to upgrade or just keep using version 7 as long as you want. The files are backwards and forwards compatible for the most part, so there's no forced upgrading. And if you are in any way connected to an educational institution, it's even better: instead of $1,000, the license costs $150, and it's identical to the commercial version in every way. You can use it forever, you can use it for paid work, everything. It just says educational in the window title bar. Oh, that sounds cool. Probably a stupid question, but by "mechanical CAD work" do you mean solid modeling? The latter sounds like what I've been doing in 3D Builder (being able to subtract stuff is very handy, which it sounds like with surface modeling would leave you with hollow, open models). I may very well have misread the article though. SEKCobra posted:Had to get a new fridge, quickly whipped up some extensions for the feet so I could actually level it. These sorts of small, custom pieces are really the most amazing part of 3D printing, because they can very easily solve small issues where everything else would be a lot more complicated. TBH I've always used coins of varying denominations and thickness as shims/levelers. But a 3D printed part that you can screw in and forget about is a lot better.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 22:31
|
|
|
Welp, just ordered my Ender 3 v2! So excited, hope it actually gets here without any issues. Is there a preferred place for buying filament online? I was going to order a spool of PLA but the creality store was sold out.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 23:04
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:Welp, just ordered my Ender 3 v2! I love Jessie Filament's PLA from Printed Solid. Way better than any of the cheap brans I've gotten from Amazon.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 23:10
|
|
|
I buy hatchbox when I want the good stuff, and gst3d when I want to pay $9/kg in bulk
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2022 23:21
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:Welp, just ordered my Ender 3 v2! I mostly buy on Amazon for convenience but I've gotten some filament from Printed Solid and Zyltech which were both good. My favorite brands on Amazon are Duramic and eSun. I've bought cheap filaments from other brands on sales and had both good and bad experiences but none are really worth mentioning and a lot don't have listings any more.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 01:47
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:I love Jessie Filament's PLA from Printed Solid. Way better than any of the cheap brans I've gotten from Amazon. This is the way. There's really no reason to buy filament from random overseas brands that come and go on Amazon. Requoting this from the old thread Hypnolobster posted:Jessie PLA from printed solid, IC3D for ABS or PETG, Atomic for the same any techier filled ABS/PETG filaments. Taulman for nylon and PC.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 02:23
|
|
|
Hatchbox is my favorite so far probably. For some reason, I have so many issues with Jessie PLA and Jessie PETG with my all metal hotend ender 3 v2. It clogs on me constantly  It was just manufactured too so I doubt it's degraded really.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 03:31
|
|
|
I love overture pla types. I'm gonna order non Amazon supplied pla soon, I'm trying to minimize ordering from Amazon at the moment.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 04:41
|
|
|
I've had good results with Hatchbox and eSun, and Prusament (although I've only used their PETG). Fillamentum translucent PLA is pretty, but also finicky -- it's prone to stringing and the actual filament is brittle.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 04:43
|
|
|
Speaking of filament, I bought this on special at Jaycar (still a bit of a rort, but wanted to get a drop on printing the Lack enclosure parts so I can start printing ABS as soon as possible): The scare quotes are not reassuring! It's actually been fine so far, but I definitely see what the poster talking about infill and camera parts meant about some light getting through (not the case with the black stuff I have, thankfully). What sort of things do you guys like to print with PLA? Since a lot of my stuff is going to be used in the field/get left in a car on the regular I am going to go back and redo most of this in ABS to be safe. I am probably going to have about a half-dozen mostly full spools of PLA hanging around though, between what came with the printer and the bulk lot of unopened filament (PLA and ABS) I'm picking up on Tuesday. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Jan 30, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 05:49
|
|
|
Could be a case ofquote:Box art has been sent already
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 07:45
|
|
|
I buy filament from Austria because it supports local businesses that are somewhat recognized names in the 3D printig world and they are not exactly fleecing me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 09:40
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:Speaking of filament, I bought this on special at Jaycar (still a bit of a rort, but wanted to get a drop on printing the Lack enclosure parts so I can start printing ABS as soon as possible): Anything for around the house that won't be exposed to much heat, really. It's easy to print so I use it for everything unless there are special considerations. For the car you can consider PETG and ASA as well as ABS. ASA is similar to ABS but UV resistant (a lot of car plastics are ASA) and PETG is better than PLA for heat resistance but not as much as the others. I printed a part that was going in my friend's engine bay (rotor thing for his cruise control) out of carbon fiber reinforced nylon that held up fine for as long as he still had the car. That and polycarbonate blends are pretty good for that kind of stuff with the nylon being more ductile and the PC being more firm.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 11:58
|
|
|
If you are considering ABS, you might as well look at ASA, IMHO.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 12:19
|
|
|
I'm moving on to more functional prints, and I'm noticing this weird sort of rippling effect on the top layers of flat surfaces:  Here's one with a shot of the bottom of the thing:   You can see from that pair of shots that the tray is in full contact with the build plate and comes out flat, but on the other side, there's these weird waves and bumps. Google and Reddit seem to point toward either bed heating temp, or over-extrusion, any thoughts? I need to get this thing set up to calibrate my z-steps, I was going to wait until I got a Pi to run Octoprint but uh, lol at the very idea of finding a Pi right now.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 12:38
|
|
|
Wibla posted:If you are considering ABS, you might as well look at ASA, IMHO. Absolutely this, because holy poo poo ASA is some amazing stuff vs. ABS while sacrificing nothing. I've rarely gotten ABS to print well without an enclosure but my ASA prints have been just loving perfect with no tweaking of the PrusaSlicer settings, no matter what printer I use for the print.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 15:14
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:What sort of things do you guys like to print with PLA? Since a lot of my stuff is going to be used in the field/get left in a car on the regular I am going to go back and redo most of this in ABS to be safe. I am probably going to have about a half-dozen mostly full spools of PLA hanging around though, between what came with the printer and the bulk lot of unopened filament (PLA and ABS) I'm picking up on Tuesday. Anything that's not going to be exposed to extremes of temperature and doesn't need PETG's flexibility. It's cheap and
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 15:20
|
|
|
Jedi425 posted:I'm moving on to more functional prints, and I'm noticing this weird sort of rippling effect on the top layers of flat surfaces: It seems counter intuitive, but you want to come UP from the bed ever so slightly. Aside from checking and washing the bed there for any gunk. And when I say up, it's like the smallest steps you can do. You have good layers it looks like N'thing printed solid. I have ordered panels from them and since they are basically in the next state, it's almost like free next day shipping. I might give the filament a try, but I have standardized on hatchbox so far. They are out of a lot of colors and started to go up in price, so I may switch. I did get a couple rolls of hatchbox abs to print additional voron parts next. I had the ender completely apart, replaced belts, verified gantry alignment and I still can't shake the bed being off. I am going to take the bed completely apart and see what I need to do and return that to some sort of level part, because I absolutely do not want to buy another. Slightly more complex because the heater is attached, but I guess it's time to replace that with a proper molex connector
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 15:54
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Absolutely this, because holy poo poo ASA is some amazing stuff vs. ABS while sacrificing nothing. I've rarely gotten ABS to print well without an enclosure but my ASA prints have been just loving perfect with no tweaking of the PrusaSlicer settings, no matter what printer I use for the print. The only real pain I had with ASA was it liking to lift off the bed at the slightest provocation, but an improvised enclosure did the trick and the stuff I printed still looks brand new after over a year outdoors, exposed to the up to 4 hours a year of sunshine we get in the UK (although more seriously my garden is a bit of a sun trap and a couple of the bits I printed were replacing shop-bought articles made of, I think, some kind of polycarbonate which had bleached and gone brittle in a year).
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 15:56
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:
Yes, you probally are. Why are you guessing? "I'm not comfortable" What's that based on? You can do the math on the strength of the plastic. Infill doesn't' really provide much strength, it just provides weight, and support for the first layer of the closure of the top. PLA has a tensile strength of 50mpa. How much weight is your lack enclosure gonna support? When you do the calculation, ignore the infill. Then print it with 4 walls, and a bunch of top layers. If it makes you feel any better. The lack table itself, is something like 3% infill. (it's got a corrugated cardboard fill for most of it) With a 3-ish mm wall thickness. Cura is a place of pain. It's time calculator isn't great. Go get yourself running PrusaSlicer, you'll not regret the move. for most of those peices, you can also print much faster than the stock 40-50mm/s. So that can save you some time too. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jan 30, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 18:39
|
|
|
Just as a heads up for anyone upgrading moonraker, a. Upstream problem in pip is borking everyone's install. I just don't feel like manually downgrading everything so I just turned off the printer and went outside. Jk I played video games
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 19:16
|
|
|
Is there a simple way to print MMU designs on a non-upgraded printer with just a bunch of filament changes? I DESPARATELY want to print this design, but don't have the MMU to do it: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/91305-cattop-its-a-laptop-but-for-your-cat/comments
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 19:56
|
|
|
That would heavily depend on your definition of "Simple", but I think the most effective way would be to run find-and-replace searches in the sample code files to eliminate tool changes wherever they occur and insert the regular Filament Change G-code to trigger the printer whenever you wanted to change filament for the relevant section. That would be easier to explain if you've worked with regular Gcode as part of regular CNC programming before (because operating a CNC to adapt tool changes and offset data for an existing toolcrib vs. whatever the programmer originally set up is a very similar process).
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 20:13
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:Oh, that sounds cool. Probably a stupid question, but by "mechanical CAD work" do you mean solid modeling? The latter sounds like what I've been doing in 3D Builder (being able to subtract stuff is very handy, which it sounds like with surface modeling would leave you with hollow, open models). I may very well have misread the article though. No, Rhino can do solid modeling. The two main ways of representing 3D data in a computer are polygon modeling and NURBS modeling. In polygon modeling, all of your geometry is broken up into triangles or quadrangles and you move the polygons' vertices and edges to make the right shape. This is easy and flexible for creating arbitrary shapes, but it's inherently imprecise because you can't represent curved shapes accurately. You can get something smooth enough for a game or movie, but not for engineering work. An axle has to have a perfectly circular profile, and representing it as an 8-sided or 20-sided or even 1000-sided polygon is not good enough. In NURBS modeling, you use mathematical curves to generate the geometry. NURBS stands for "non-uniform rational B-spline," which is the specific type of curve equation that is used. Polygon vs NURBS modeling is comparable to the difference between pixel art that you make in Photoshop, and vector art that you make in Illustrator. The curves can be rendered at any resolution you need by sampling the equation, so a circle is genuinely a perfect circle and every surface is totally smooth. For engineering and design work this is great. However, because the surfaces are defined by mathematics rather than a list of vertices, the way you work with them is more complicated. Initially, like in the 1970s, NURBS modeling meant calculating coefficients by hand and plugging them into the equations. Today we have much better ways, but it's still not as intuitive as polygon modeling "grab this vertex and drag it where you want it." Because working with NURBS is hard, we've settled on two main software-assisted techniques of editing the geometry: solid modeling and surface modeling. In solid modeling, your model is treated as if it's a solid block of wood. If you drill a hole through a block of wood, you expect it to behave like a solid chunk, with an inside wall on the hole and everything. Here is a nice NURBS eggplant, and when I cut a hole through it in solid mode, you can see the whitish interior.  However, the original eggplant didn't actually have an "interior!" It was just a NURBS surface shell. If I work with the same eggplant in surface mode and cut a hole through it, I get this:  It's as if the eggplant was made of papier-mache and I cut a hole on both sides with a hobby knife. This is the only difference between a "surface" model and a "solid" model, or surface modeling vs. solid modeling techniques. In the solid cut, the software first cut through the hollow eggplant surface model, then went back in and added a new surface connecting the two holes, simulating the behavior of a solid object. In surface modeling, it just cuts the holes and doesn't add the white surface. If I took the surface model and manually added another patch connecting the holes, it would be geometrically identical to the solid. So surface vs. solid modeling is just two ways of looking at the same geometry, and both are equally valid for engineering-type work. Solid modeling processes are a little easier to understand, and often quicker, so they're more common; SolidWorks, Fusion 360, CATIA, Creo, Unigraphics, Alibre, etc etc are all primarily solid modelers. Surface modeling gives you deeper control over the exact shape, which is required for making car bodies, boat hulls, high-end product housings, and such. It's harder to learn and more finicky, so surface-first programs are more rare; Rhino and Alias have most of the market. But because the geometry is interchangeable, Rhino can do solid modeling just fine, and SolidWorks has a set of basic surfacing tools for when they're required. Back to the original statement. When I said Rhino is not as good at mechanical CAD, what I meant was that it's not parametric. In addition to being a NURBS modeler and a solid modeler, SolidWorks is a parametric modeler. This means that everything in your model is defined by a set of parameters -- mathematical inputs and relationships -- that all build on one another. To draw a box in SolidWorks, you start with a rectangle on a plane, and assign each side of the rectangle a length. Those lengths are stored as numerical dimensions in a database. You then extrude the rectangle, and the length of the extrusion is also stored as a dimension. This creates your box. If you want to change the shape of the box, you go back to your database and edit the driving values. Change the extrusion height and the cube gets taller or shorter. Make the two rectangle legs the same size, and also link them to the height, and you have a cube. At any time in your model you can go back and edit those original driving dimensions, and your model will "rebuild" (update) into a modified version with -- if you did a good job assembling it -- no additional work on your part. This is extremely valuable if you're building, say, a car transmission. Need to make one gear larger? Just adjust the database entry for the number of teeth on that gear, and if you built everything else properly, the other gears will adjust their sizes to accommodate. Make the gears thicker and the whole transmission housing can extend automatically. It's great any time you have a part with a lot of accurate dimensions that need to stay related to one another. However, parametric modeling is also restrictive. Often, you cannot just change something by, say, pushing or pulling on it. You can't just grab a part and drag it to where you want it, because it was generated by some feature, which in turn was generated by another feature, which is based on this geometry which is connected to that part which was drawn over here...and so on. The parametric connections make it hard to use a parametric modeler for freeform work, where you might want to just spend half an hour carefully massaging one surface to get it to look beautiful, and who cares what it's connected to -- you'll deal with that later. Rhino takes the freeform approach, and lets you do that massaging, but if you build a transmission with it and want to change a gear, you'll be manually rebuilding everything else that's affected by that change too. Similarly, building a box in Rhino is just a matter of drawing out the box at whatever dimensions you want, and it pops into existence -- and then it's done. If you want to change the height, you have to physically grab the top surface and move it to where you'd like it to be, calculating or measuring out the right displacement to get it there. There is no "height" parameter that you can change to have the software move it for you. So this is my original point -- I love Rhino, and it's totally capable of doing solid or surface modeling. You can make solid 3D printable parts with it just as well as any other software. However, if you have a large complicated assembly that you're working through, continuously having to make adjustments based on measured dimensions, it's going to be more of a headache to do it in Rhino than in a parametric modeler like SolidWorks. Not impossible, just more time-consuming. I've taught courses in both Rhino and SolidWorks for many years, and I find that preference is about an even split, it turns out. Half of the people I teach love Rhino and put up with SolidWorks; the other half are the other way. I have ascended beyond such concerns and use both equally where their relative strengths are the most important. But Rhino is a lot cheaper, it's less buggy, it runs faster, the company is nicer, and I think the UX -- while a little dated looking -- is better than SolidWorks too. Hence why I say if only Rhino had a parametric kernel too, I'd never use anything else. 
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jan 30, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 20:45
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:This is the way. There's really no reason to buy filament from random overseas brands that come and go on Amazon. Added to the OP! If non-US goons have good filament brands that they recommend let me know. I don't want the OP to end up too US-centric.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 20:53
|
|
|
So you're the one behind all those weird adverts under viral tweets.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2022 21:01
|
|
|
I bought a FLIR DM166 Multimeter recently and was hoping to buy the TA48 Test Lead Holder that bolts onto the back, but they no longer offer that accessory so I decided to try and to make my own! An OEM TA48 Test Lead Holder  The back of my DM166 DMM  My latest print of it (4th so far)    Still needs some refinements, but I'm happy with what I've been able to do with a couple days of sporadic designing and printing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2022 02:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 01:08 |
|
|
That's a useful write up, thank you. I'm a real hack with anything CAD/CAM based, and I get the end result but my method is hardly optimal. I found my head grokked Solidworks, but yeah, that price. I had a phone conversation with the Australian rep last year about a trial I was using, and he did say he gets a lot of hobbyists who wanted it, but were priced out of it. Today I accidentally stumbled across this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaxzWrWlvKM with a referral code for a ~ $7-8/month subscription to Solidworks for Hobbyists. Me and F360 just don't gel, I've tried Onshape and found I still dislike web based CAD packages, so I think I'll pay up for Solidworks and give it another good go.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2022 03:29
|
|