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This is definitely abnormal for a drum brake push rod, right? Having never owned a drum brake I'd taken it for an intentionally offset thing, but the rear brake gives an awkward kunk sometimes the first time I use it on a ride. This was someone's first bike and the chain was way loose when I got it, so a picture is starting to form.
Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jan 30, 2022 |
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Jan 30, 2022 04:53
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They are often not perfectly straight but I don't see why there would be a bend there. In saying that, it shouldn't really affect how the brake functions. Maybe pop the wheel out and have a look at the shape of the shoes.
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Jan 30, 2022 05:12
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left my bike sitting (indoors) for 6 weeks and when I came back my rear brake was completely non-functional, moving freely with zero resistance and zero brake application. For lack of any better ideas replaced the brake fluid as it was about due anyway (and looking not great), and that got it working again (maybe feels a little spongy, but might just be in my head). Is there anything else I should be careful of/take a look for? My understanding was degraded brake fluid tended to lead to slow degredation and loss of brake function at high temperatures, rather than suddenly becoming non-functional even cold.
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Jan 30, 2022 09:14
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Slavvy posted:Verify stuff is going in there by draining a bit of the bowl. Removed the air cleaner to make sure there were no obstructions. There weren’t, other than a really dirty filter. Drained the carb, gas looked like this:  Took a few tries but it started up without much fuss. I drained the bowl again:  PO assured me stabilizer was added before it was parked ~6 month ago, is this what happens when you don’t run it long enough for the stabilized gas to make it down to the carb? Also, just curious, can these safely be replaced with hose clamps (the kind I can open with a screwdriver)?  
epswing fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jan 31, 2022 |
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Jan 31, 2022 00:28
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epswing posted:Removed the air cleaner to make sure there were no obstructions. There weren’t, other than a really dirty filter. Drained the carb, gas looked like this: Forbidden IPA
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Jan 31, 2022 00:49
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Had a surprisingly violent tip over practicing in the parking lot - tried to uturn in too tight a spot between two curbs from a stop. Have a couple of questions regarding what to replace and what to bang back into shape. This is a replace obviously  Do I need to replace this or can I just bend it back?  The handlebars are offset, I think I probably need to loosen and retighten something?  There's not supposed to be that gap there... 
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Jan 31, 2022 01:15
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Shifter can definitely just be bent back with some vise-grips or a crescent wrench. You can bend the clutch lever back if you heat it up with a propane torch (to anneal it so it doesn't crack) and use a hammer and anvil. Maybe outside the tools you have available. They are pretty cheap to replace though. Hard to tell exactly what part of the handlebars is tweaked to end up that way, so I'd suggest just taking them completely off (including the mounts) and reassembling them, and in the process you'll either fix the problem or discover what needs to be repaired.
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Jan 31, 2022 03:17
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Yeah bend the shifter back then loosen the 4 bolts holding the bars, twist the bars back and tighten them back up. They’re rubber mounted so they should move back.
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Jan 31, 2022 03:17
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A Banana posted:left my bike sitting (indoors) for 6 weeks and when I came back my rear brake was completely non-functional, moving freely with zero resistance and zero brake application. For lack of any better ideas replaced the brake fluid as it was about due anyway (and looking not great), and that got it working again (maybe feels a little spongy, but might just be in my head). Is there anything else I should be careful of/take a look for? Check under the rear MC boot for leakage. It's probably either leaking or has worn out piston seals.
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Jan 31, 2022 04:04
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Russian Bear posted:Had a surprisingly violent tip over practicing in the parking lot - tried to uturn in too tight a spot between two curbs from a stop. Have a couple of questions regarding what to replace and what to bang back into shape. You need to keep this and turn it into a coat hanger.
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Jan 31, 2022 08:05
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epswing posted:Removed the air cleaner to make sure there were no obstructions. There weren’t, other than a really dirty filter. Drained the carb, gas looked like this: Idk this is why you drain the bowl. Very simple. Just drain the bowl and you never need to compare urine samples. Aaaaalways draaaaain the booooooowl. E: yeah you can use whatever hose clamp as long as it's sized right, there's no real pressure in those lines so it doesn't need to be ultra tight, you can also get quick release couplers for the job Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Jan 31, 2022 |
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Jan 31, 2022 08:20
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Looks like pee is stored in the bowls. Combination of fuel being older than 6 months, PO lying about stabilizing, and the ability of stabilizer to do gently caress all. I hope you sincerely side eyed him or her when they told you that because it's likely the only justice you will get. The color could come from leaving the tank partially empty. Condensation forms in the tank when the temperature around it fluctuates, the emptier the tank the more condensation can form. Here in Wisconsin, for example, temperature fluctuates a full 120-130 degrees F throughout the year, as much as 60 degrees in a 24 hour period. Rust forms, flakes off, settles into the nooks and crannies of the tank bottom, lines, and filter.
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Jan 31, 2022 13:03
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Gorson posted:Looks like pee is stored in the bowls. 
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Jan 31, 2022 20:57
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Russian Bear posted:This is a replace obviously echoing what others have said but pro tip for annealing Al is to sharpie it, then heat it with a torch. once the sharpie disappears you’ve got it hot enough that it shouldn’t snap when bending
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Jan 31, 2022 21:02
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Just tie a string to it and drop the bike to the other side.
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Jan 31, 2022 21:13
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I just ordered a replacement ($25). It's actually still completely ergonomic to use since your two fingers rest comfortably in the bend. Granted you don't want the possibility of your fingers getting stuck if something happens. Maybe I'll mount it indoors and use it to hang my gear from the new "hook".
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Jan 31, 2022 21:46
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Missing choke knob, don’t really want to replace the whole choke cable, would a cheap tap/die set + random knob work here? Like this guy https://youtu.be/fb1JEvDHsMw Would I cut that end bit off the rod? The rod itself isn’t quite a circle either (it’s got a flat side), so would a die even work properly on it? 
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Feb 5, 2022 22:23
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epswing posted:Missing choke knob, don’t really want to replace the whole choke cable, would a cheap tap/die set + random knob work here? Like this guy https://youtu.be/fb1JEvDHsMw You can just buy a replacement knob. Probably skull shaped.
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Feb 5, 2022 22:43
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Finger Prince posted:You can just buy a replacement knob. Probably skull shaped. Hey you're right, I looked but obviously not hard enough. A reasonable looking Revzilla option is $40+$25 USD shipping to Canada is $83 CAD  , and there's this stupid bottlecap knob at FortNine that's still $41 CAD.Looks like I could get a cheap replacement choke cable (including the knob) for like $30 CAD so I am just not going to bother fixing this until the cable breaks 
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Feb 5, 2022 23:08
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Pair of cheapo Mastercraft mini vise grips at crappy tire should only cost about 10-15 bucks.
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Feb 5, 2022 23:35
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Bent the shifter back; the bars realigned after I undid the 4 bolts holding them and tightened them back up; changed out the clutch lever, was not hard even for my below average mechanic skills. Went out for a ride, 65 degrees and sunny today, feels good! Stopped by a local dealer to get a quote for some tires and sat on an africa twin. Is the tire squaring off a big deal? These have 4200 miles so I assume if I get them changed out in the next 1k miles or so it'll be alright. Or should I move the time table up? 
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Feb 6, 2022 00:09
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On those tires my front was done before the rear. You’re fairly close to the wear bar anyway but probably fine for another 1000.
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Feb 6, 2022 00:14
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Russian Bear posted:Bent the shifter back; the bars realigned after I undid the 4 bolts holding them and tightened them back up; changed out the clutch lever, was not hard even for my below average mechanic skills. Went out for a ride, 65 degrees and sunny today, feels good! It's a big deal for how the bike feels going into corners, but by the looks of things you don't need to worry about that.
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Feb 6, 2022 00:18
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Sorry I couldn't resist. It'll probably be fine to put another 1k of dry highway miles or commuting on them, but they already look like a chore to corner on.
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Feb 6, 2022 00:21
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E: commented on stale thread, never mind
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Feb 6, 2022 00:38
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Finger Prince posted:Sorry I couldn't resist. It'll probably be fine to put another 1k of dry highway miles or commuting on them, but they already look like a chore to corner on. There are lots of straight roads here in the wild wild west and these tires have also been on gravel roads a decent amount where I'm not going to be doing any leaning. Wish there were more twisties closer  Toe Rag posted:On those tires my front was done before the rear. You’re fairly close to the wear bar anyway but probably fine for another 1000. I didn't think to check the front assuming the rear would go first, good reminder thanks!
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Feb 6, 2022 00:42
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Russian Bear posted:There are lots of straight roads here in the wild wild west and these tires have also been on gravel roads a decent amount where I'm not going to be doing any leaning. Wish there were more twisties closer Get some pilot roads for your next set. They're ideal for when you have to be mindful of squaring off the middle, but you still want something that'll stick when leaned over.
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Feb 6, 2022 02:05
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My Ninja 400 stock rear tire (Dunlop SportMax GPR300) picked up a nail a while ago and I replaced it with a Michelin Pilot Power 2CT, but the stock front (Dunlop SportMax GPR300) still has a lot of life left so I kept it. I don't push hard enough to notice any handling issues and the bike feels fine, both seem to be similarly sporty tires. I'm planning to track it again soon though, should I swap the front to match the new rear before I do? My goal with my second track outing is to A) not crash B) finally get a knee down, so I'll be actually pushing the limits of grip a bit if all goes to plan. Anyone ever ran different brand tires on track, is it a terrible idea?
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Feb 6, 2022 16:32
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My understanding is motorcycle tires are designed as a pair and intended to work together. That may be more important in the wet than the dry but you’d also want to consider the tires’ handling characteristics. I think the GPR-300 is fine for a low power bike riding in the slow group, which I assume you still are! I have done 6 track days on those tires and only once I started riding reasonably and consistently faster did I start running into problems. That’s said there’s no harm in swapping out to better tires. I have had the chance to ride on track on better tires and they are certainly, uh, better. I’m for sure putting different tires on my bike before my next track day. I’d also recommend you don’t focus too much on getting your knee down and instead focus on your vision, braking, and throttle. Find your braking marker and see if you can push it up like 1/4 to 1/2 a second each session.
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Feb 6, 2022 17:01
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Definitely in the slowest group, I want to start off really easy and see how the day goes. I really should just get the front mounted, I actually bought them as a pair but didn't have a way to get it off yet so just did the rear. Cycle Gear has a tire machine and will mount them for a discount if you bought from them or RevZilla. What kind of tire pressures did you run? I'm having a hard time finding track recommendations, the closest thing I could find was a review of the 400 that mentioned Kawasaki said to go 26 rear, 30 front, but that's stock tires, and Michelin doesn't seem to give recs for the Pilot Powers.
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Feb 6, 2022 20:27
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A good way of doing it is to put in normal-ish cold pressures, then go out for a brief stint and get them as hot as possible, then pull in and immediately reduce to normal pressures while they're still super hot. Takes out a lot of the guesswork. Wrt: getting a knee down, that's putting the cart about a mile in front of the horse. Trying to get your knee down on purpose is a good way to crash or learn a bunch of poo poo habits. Focus on the right lines and the right use of the controls, leaning off and knee down pretty much happen on their own when you go fast enough.
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Feb 6, 2022 20:35
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Good advice, I just had a wild hair about it for a while now. I'll ease off and focus on the fundamental stuff. For smaller bikes with skinnier tires (150/60 rear, 110/70 front) do people commonly run lower pressure in the back on a track? Didn't even realize that was a thing until I found the review that mentioned it.
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Feb 6, 2022 20:54
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Tyre pressures are dependant on your tyres, your bike, your weight, your setup, your lines, the track, the weather. If you think someone on the internet can give you the right answer, you'll be disappointed. Normal pressures at operating temp is the starting point that puts you in the right ballpark, the same way all those guides about setting preload sag are a starting point to put you in the right balllpark. Unless the guy is exactly the same size as you and has an identical bike and tyres, I think any talk of specifics is just a red flag that the person doesn't actually understand what's happening.
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Feb 6, 2022 21:16
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For tire pressures I start with my usual cold and then immediately check it after each session. I also look at the tire and make sure the wear isn’t rough and uneven. This is bad wear. IIRC the pressure was 43psi when I took this picture  I dropped it down to maybe 36psi and 2 sessions later it looked a lot better (but not perfect).  IMO there is no “right” pressure. It will depend on a lot of things, namely how you are riding (both your pace and “style”), how hot it is, your bike setup, and so on. Basically this: Slavvy posted:Tyre pressures are dependant on your tyres, your bike, your weight, your setup, your lines, the track, the weather. If you think someone on the internet can give you the right answer, you'll be disappointed. Normal pressures at operating temp is the starting point that puts you in the right ballpark, the same way all those guides about setting preload sag are a starting point to put you in the right balllpark. Unless the guy is exactly the same size as you and has an identical bike and tyres, I think any talk of specifics is just a red flag that the person doesn't actually understand what's happening.
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Feb 6, 2022 21:26
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Makes sense, I will just start at standard pressure and adjust while there, thanks all! Got the front wheel off today and am having the tire mounted. I ended up having to get a breaker bar. Rear axle nut was much easier to knock loose which surprised me. No evidence of PO malfeasance on this bike either, so guess just one of those factory things!
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Feb 7, 2022 03:39
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How much does your local place charge to install tires? Mine quoted me $320 installed for some Diablo III's. I'm seeing $270 shipped from Revzilla for those tires alone, so seems like a no brainer to just drop the bike off and have them do everything.
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Feb 7, 2022 04:11
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Those tires will probably square off even sooner FYI. $50 to drop off the bike and come back with new tires is well worth it. My Honda dealer charges mores than that if you bring in just wheels.
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Feb 7, 2022 04:27
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Russian Bear posted:How much does your local place charge to install tires? I was looking at the Diablo IIIs but couldn't find the rear tires in stock online, looks like they're still showing out. edit: oh also it's per tire so $50 to install sounds pretty decent, especially if you don't have to wrestle the wheels off yourself! RightClickSaveAs fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Feb 7, 2022 |
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Feb 7, 2022 05:18
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Going to replace my Ninja 650's battery once I pull the tarp off in a month or two. Anything specific to look for or is this just a "buy a battery, stupid" thing. Not super interested in weight savings gains or anything so I'll probably just go to a bike shop and say "hey give me a battery" unless there's any specific guidance. I'm aware of the F9 battery video and that's kind of where my "just need a battery who fuckin cares" thing is coming from. I'm not going to analyze it to death like I do everything -- I've been happy with my OEM battery until it started giving me trouble, though it was presumably sitting idle since the bike was manufactured in 2018 until I bought it in 2019 or whatever. Fake "comedy" edit: I could always just try to destroy another motorcycle by trying to add an unnecessary kickstart.
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Feb 7, 2022 13:24
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Martytoof posted:Going to replace my Ninja 650's battery once I pull the tarp off in a month or two. Anything specific to look for or is this just a "buy a battery, stupid" thing. Not super interested in weight savings gains or anything so I'll probably just go to a bike shop and say "hey give me a battery" unless there's any specific guidance. Just get a Yuasa. There are probably better batteries out there but there are also definitely worse, and there's a reason basically every manufacturer specifies Yuasa as OEM.
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Feb 7, 2022 14:53
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