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Inner Light posted:Yeah man, I would love an automotive Hobbs meter, even if I can just get to it with ODB. Some of the newer products from.... Stellantis? Ford? have an hours meter in the infotainment, which is sick. GM too, but maybe only in the trucks.
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Jan 30, 2022 02:13
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Ford models intended for fleet use can usually have an hour meter enabled. The various Police Interceptor models definitely have it enabled by default.
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Jan 30, 2022 02:25
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It's only an idle hour meter on the Crown Vics - only shows how long the engine was running with the transmission in park. Later model Fords (I think only fleet/fleetlike vehicles and interceptors) have both a run and idle that you can usually get to through the DIC. It's funny that my work van (2020) has more idle hours than my 2007 Crown Vic....
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Jan 30, 2022 05:20
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Inner Light posted:Yeah man, I would love an automotive Hobbs meter, even if I can just get to it with ODB. Some of the newer products from.... Stellantis? Ford? have an hours meter in the infotainment, which is sick. Ford trucks/vans do, depending on trim. We have a bunch of Transits that have it buried in the driver info center; I've seen it on F-150s too.
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Jan 30, 2022 05:24
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General_Failure posted:1995 Toyota Rav4, 5 door. I have absolutely no clue as to your specific car, but on the various cars I've ever done it on the wires routed through a rubber plug in a hole somewhere in the bottom of the trunk. Unless you've done so already it's probably worth having a look back there, the answer might be obvious.
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Jan 30, 2022 09:13
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Hey guys I did some regular driving for a few weeks going out in the sticks a bit for work, some of which had me going along a smooth but dirt road daily, the result was the underside of my car, like the front to back of the underside to have a light powdery dusting of dirt. Is this something I want to get cleaned off? I dont really want to leave it in there just because my car is immaculant otherwise and I have no clue if it causes mechanical problems or not. This car is a few months old but a 2017 corolla and I need it to last as long as it can with no issues.
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Jan 30, 2022 14:50
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iroguebot posted:Hey guys I did some regular driving for a few weeks going out in the sticks a bit for work, some of which had me going along a smooth but dirt road daily, the result was the underside of my car, like the front to back of the underside to have a light powdery dusting of dirt. Is this something I want to get cleaned off? I dont really want to leave it in there just because my car is immaculant otherwise and I have no clue if it causes mechanical problems or not. This car is a few months old but a 2017 corolla and I need it to last as long as it can with no issues. Always good to regularly wash your car, tops and bottomsbut being dusty wont directly like damage your car, no. If you live somewhere that salts, you definitely want to give your car an undercarriage spray every week or two in the wintertime in order to clean off the road salt, which will cause corrosion and rust
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Jan 30, 2022 15:23
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Ok Comboomer posted:Always good to regularly wash your car, tops and bottoms—but being dusty won’t directly like damage your car, no. Thanks for the reply, I dont live in the north I'm in Houston, and aside from the one day out the year it freezes and the entire city shuts down so salt on the roads aren't really a thing here. Dumb question on my part, are there services that would put the car on a lift and wash underneath it to get it clean? Google search in my area didnt turn up much for undercarriage wash, or do I just take it to one of those manual car washes and play down and just spray at the underside? I REALLY dont want to gently caress this car up, I was posting in this thread back in november about my old cars head gasket blowing and all the stress it gave me. My corolla is my baby right now.
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Jan 30, 2022 15:52
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iroguebot posted:Thanks for the reply, I dont live in the north I'm in Houston, and aside from the one day out the year it freezes and the entire city shuts down so salt on the roads aren't really a thing here. Dumb question on my part, are there services that would put the car on a lift and wash underneath it to get it clean? Google search in my area didnt turn up much for undercarriage wash, or do I just take it to one of those manual car washes and play down and just spray at the underside? I REALLY dont want to gently caress this car up, I was posting in this thread back in november about my old cars head gasket blowing and all the stress it gave me. My corolla is my baby right now. Nobody puts a car on a lift to wash it. You either spray it yourself at home or at a manual wash, or take it to an automatic wash, which generally has underbody sprayers
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Jan 30, 2022 16:00
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Ok Comboomer posted:Nobody puts a car on a lift to wash it. Yeah, take it to an automated touchless car wash, and buy a high enough tier wash that mentions "bottom blast", "undercarriage spray", or some other phrase that suggests water coming from the bottom.
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Jan 30, 2022 16:32
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Anyone know if Seafoam tank additive and/or intake spray is worth the effort for preventative maintenance? We have a 2018 CX-5 and 2020 GTI that google says are DI and I'd like to keep em in good shape for a long time. Carbon buildup and Seafoam have come up in car youtube watching and appears it won't do much for existing buildup, may be worth it to help prevent but also seems like a maybe don't sweat it and just get a cleaning if they need em way down the road. Plus the tank additive would be easy but seems the intake spray would be the more helpful and I'm a dummy so would have to spend some time making sure I learn to do that right.
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Jan 30, 2022 16:52
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Seafoam has it's place, but this isn't it. Tank treatments, other than fuel stabilizers and lead replacements, are largely useless for anything. It's just all too diluted. Even as an injector treatment for non-DI stuff I've never had any luck with it. The only thing that has worked were systems like Run-Rite, where you have a machine with a pump and you're attaching that to the fuel rail to run the car off of it. I really like Seafoam for ressurecting poo poo that hasn't been running for a long time/is all f'd up and in maintenance debt. But that's through the intake, and it comes with it's own risks. Same with using it in oil, but I don't really think it's necessary to use SeaFoam at all for that......ATF works fine. None of this is applicable to your car.
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Jan 30, 2022 16:57
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Awesome good to know, won't worry bout it then. Thank you!
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Jan 30, 2022 17:30
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Invalido posted:I have absolutely no clue as to your specific car, but on the various cars I've ever done it on the wires routed through a rubber plug in a hole somewhere in the bottom of the trunk. Unless you've done so already it's probably worth having a look back there, the answer might be obvious. That was my thought, but I just couldn't find anything in the right place. Yesterday I got lucky. I had the right hand rear side trim separated from the body. Through the access hole to the cavity down behind the wheel arch I saw a tiny bit of light. Blindly feeling around I found a short diagonal metal tube. Took me a bit to find the hole from the underside but it was there. I never would have seen it if I didn't already know it existed. On the outside it's flush with the bodywork and pretty small. I'm just in the process of packing up after a couple of awful days of getting everything fitted. So, it's all good now. Hopefully.
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Jan 31, 2022 00:57
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I need some interior help with my '70 2002. I bought door panels and decided to leather them myself. It actually doesn't look bad but I had no solution for the edges. Tucking the leather under wasn't going to work due to how the panels attach. I'm looking for some sort of edge trim that would pinch on the edges and could be molded around the outside of the door panels. I'd prefer red but black would work too.  
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Jan 31, 2022 04:48
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TacoHavoc posted:Yeah, take it to an automated touchless car wash, and buy a high enough tier wash that mentions "bottom blast", "undercarriage spray", or some other phrase that suggests water coming from the bottom. If you have a pressure washer you can attach one of these and aim it up at the bottom of your car. 
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Jan 31, 2022 18:37
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PBCrunch posted:If you have a pressure washer you can attach one of these and aim it up at the bottom of your car. Surprised that doesnt exist for regular garden hose attachments
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Jan 31, 2022 19:22
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Ok Comboomer posted:Surprised that doesnt exist for regular garden hose attachments  ? Just need wheels!
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Jan 31, 2022 20:01
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Jan 31, 2022 20:06
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I've got a scar from one of those things busting my shin open when I was 8. Still the best sprinkler though.
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Jan 31, 2022 20:08
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Powershift posted:
I own this exact sprinkler.
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Jan 31, 2022 20:22
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bird with big dick posted:I own this exact sprinkler. Is that your yard too? 
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Jan 31, 2022 20:47
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Enos Cabell posted:I've got a scar from one of those things busting my shin open when I was 8. Still the best sprinkler though. Turns out busting doesnt always make you feel good 
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Jan 31, 2022 23:37
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My car, 10 years old now so it wouldn't be surprising, sounded loud (from the exhaust) when starting and accelerating. Varies with engine speed. After driving around a little bit, it quieted down but I could still hear it a little bit. Does that sound like the beginnings of a leak in the exhaust? Thinking it closed up with a little metal expansion. No CEL, only noticed today so possibly didn't have to set yet.
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Feb 1, 2022 01:12
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totalnewbie posted:Does that sound like the beginnings of a leak in the exhaust? Thinking it closed up with a little metal expansion. No CEL, only noticed today so possibly didn't have to set yet. Yes, that's exactly what it sounds like to me.
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Feb 1, 2022 01:43
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Started my car to warm up before I left work today, when I returned after ~15 minutes (was not planning on leaving it there for that long) the temperature gauge was 3/4 of the way up and the air blowing out was completely cold. Once I had moved my car off the hill it was parked on, the temperature gauge almost immediately went back to normal and hot ait started blowing out. It was fine on the drive home except on a big incline when it got a bit weird again. I'm almost positive this means I had low coolant and got a hot spot of air near the temp sensor or something but it's too cold and dark to check now. Anything I should be on the look out for, and should I be afraid of overheating issues if the gauge never topped out?
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Feb 1, 2022 08:19
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Low coolant and/or an air bubble in the system could cause that, but I'd also be suspicious of the thermostat, might be sticking closed.
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Feb 1, 2022 08:38
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Id also check the HVAC blend door, it might be flopping open/closed with the position of the car
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Feb 1, 2022 12:34
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Sounds like low coolant to me. Keep your eyes peeled for colored puddles. Cars use all different colors of coolant these days.
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Feb 1, 2022 16:09
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DildenAnders posted:Started my car to warm up before I left work today, when I returned after ~15 minutes (was not planning on leaving it there for that long) the temperature gauge was 3/4 of the way up and the air blowing out was completely cold. Once I had moved my car off the hill it was parked on, the temperature gauge almost immediately went back to normal and hot ait started blowing out. It was fine on the drive home except on a big incline when it got a bit weird again. I'm almost positive this means I had low coolant and got a hot spot of air near the temp sensor or something but it's too cold and dark to check now. Anything I should be on the look out for, and should I be afraid of overheating issues if the gauge never topped out? One other thing to look at, depending on the car, is whether there is a clog in the heater core. Dodge passenger cars are somewhat notorious for developing this problem when they don't have transmission issues (Dad has an old POS early-90s Neon that he bought used and uses as a commute car). There are tons of videos out there about how to clear the clog by disconnecting the input/output lines from said core, holding a garden hose up to one of them and attempting to flush it out with house water pressure and alternating holding the hose on each opening until whatever is clogging the heater core gets pushed out (then flushing water through it until it comes out clean, reconnecting everything and then re-filling the coolant as needed to get things running well again).
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Feb 1, 2022 17:30
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PBCrunch posted:Cars use all different colors of coolant these days. I hate this poo poo, especially how faintly colored some of them are (Ford/Mopar, I'm looking at you). But a coolant puddle, regardless of color, will feel somewhat slick between your fingers and smell sweet.
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Feb 1, 2022 19:08
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e: wrong thread!
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Feb 1, 2022 19:29
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Think the wrong thread but my skin cracks and I wake up with blood in my sinuses when it's that dry. I'm obviously more sensitive than most
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Feb 1, 2022 19:31
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PBCrunch posted:Sounds like low coolant to me. Keep your eyes peeled for colored puddles. Cars use all different colors of coolant these days. My old Jeep taught me all about leaking coolant lol. I haven't seen anything major but for a while after I first got the car it had a tinge of that characteristic burning ethylene glycol aroma, so I think there's a small leak somewhere that's just now disrupting stuff. After filling up it back up with coolant the heat is working a lot better and the temp has been completely normal so thanks for all the input, I think you're right.
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Feb 1, 2022 23:47
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Charles posted:Think the wrong thread but my skin cracks and I wake up with blood in my sinuses when it's that dry. I'm obviously more sensitive than most Put a tiny dab of Aquaphor in your nose and smear it around, twice daily. Fixed my constant winter nosebleeds.
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Feb 2, 2022 00:13
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regulargonzalez posted:Put a tiny dab of Aquaphor in your nose and smear it around, twice daily. Fixed my constant winter nosebleeds. I just use a humidifier which is what the blanked post was about.
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Feb 2, 2022 01:27
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DildenAnders posted:My old Jeep taught me all about leaking coolant lol. I haven't seen anything major but for a while after I first got the car it had a tinge of that characteristic burning ethylene glycol aroma, so I think there's a small leak somewhere that's just now disrupting stuff. After filling up it back up with coolant the heat is working a lot better and the temp has been completely normal so thanks for all the input, I think you're right. You wait until the car is cold, remove the radiator cap (again, NOT thermostat), find the adapter in the kit that looks like it, then put it on and pump up the cooling system to the level printed on the radiator cap (for the third time, NOT thermostat) (most systems are around 14 psi IME). If you see coolant spewing out of someplace, that is your leak. Look around the water pump, the radiator (particularly where the plastic end tanks connect to the aluminum fin assembly), and all the hoses and connections. If the pressure in the tester drops, there is a leak. Keep looking. If the pressure stays in the system for about 15 minutes with no drop, the coolant is escaping by some other means. Someone may have let some out for another service, possible head gasket leak(?). Fix that leak before it gets big or causes other issues. Engines do not like going past their prescribed temperature limits. Winter driving with no heat also sucks. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Feb 2, 2022 |
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Feb 2, 2022 16:14
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Trying to help a neighbor out on their '07 Avalanche, 5.3l, and I guess I got two questions: 1) Would that model have a limp-home mode that is tied to the oil level sensor? 2) Would I be correct in the assumption that a limp mode would just severely limit the engine's performance as opposed to just completely dying in the middle of running? The neighbor is tangling with a remanufacturer's warranty on this (they shouldn'ta mentioned the sensor in the first place but no matter)
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Feb 2, 2022 17:13
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PBCrunch posted:Keep in mind that coolant lives in what is supposed to be a sealed system. The coolant shouldn't evaporate or leak out unless a problem is present. The best way to find a leak is to check out a coolant pressure tester setup with thermostat adapters from your local big chain auto parts store. You'll have to put down a hefty deposit (could be close to $300 for the tester and the adapter set), but you get it all back when you return it. Radiation cap not thermostat. E: gently caress. RADIATOR CAP.
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Feb 2, 2022 18:23
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wesleywillis posted:Radiation cap not thermostat. So we're both fuckups then. Yes, radiator cap. How did I mess that up? And I did it TWICE! Edit: gently caress! Three times.
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Feb 2, 2022 22:08
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