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GentlemanofLeisure
Aug 27, 2008

Ok Comboomer posted:

I think the A170s are a great choice. If you can afford to stretch your budget a bit I think the 180s or 190s could only be better, but also you’re not missing out on a ton if the eventual goal is to add a subwoofer down the road.

That said, 6.5” or 8” woofers will have a bit more reach than 5” will

Yeah I think I will probably add a sub down the road shortly, and maybe a center, depending on how I feel about the setup once it's up and running. Thanks for the help, will get these ordered and post a trip report :shroom:

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CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK
Sep 11, 2001



You could also get a pair of these ridiculous beauties. :v: I wish I had the space(or need) for them.

You definitely won't need a subwoofer with these speakers.

e:

GentlemanofLeisure posted:

Do you have a vendor recommendation for the 570's? Looks like the lowest they've ever been on Amazon is $250/ea but right now they're about $300/ea.

A bit late of a reply, but from jbl.com itself. It would have the best discount / prices when they go on sale.

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jan 27, 2022

mariooncrack
Dec 27, 2008

GentlemanofLeisure posted:

Do you have a vendor recommendation for the 570's? Looks like the lowest they've ever been on Amazon is $250/ea but right now they're about $300/ea.

I see the S807 for $279/pair and the S809 for $399/pair on Crutchfield.

Honestly, from these two posts, the ones I'm drawn to are the JBL A170's followed by the Jamo S 809's. The price is pretty close (360 vs 400 before tax). I'm by no means an audiophile so I'm tempted to go with the A170's since JBL's a name I recognize, they are a bit cheaper, and the reviews seem good. Unless someone here convinces me otherwise.

Jamo speakers go on sale all the time on adorama through slickdeals.

https://slickdeals.net/f/15547831-jamo-s-809-5-0-home-cinema-pack-black-1064325-h-adorama-359?src=SiteSearchV2Algo

It says expired but if you click the link, it shows up on adorama for $359. It's a sponsored deal through slickdeals. I think I paid ~$230 for my S809 pair but I wish I had bought a package like this instead.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

mariooncrack posted:

Jamo speakers go on sale all the time on adorama through slickdeals.

https://slickdeals.net/f/15547831-jamo-s-809-5-0-home-cinema-pack-black-1064325-h-adorama-359?src=SiteSearchV2Algo

It says expired but if you click the link, it shows up on adorama for $359. It's a sponsored deal through slickdeals. I think I paid ~$230 for my S809 pair but I wish I had bought a package like this instead.

lmao at bundling in the smaller S81 center instead of its larger sibling that would actually match the drivers in the floorstanders, but for that price you could honestly just buy the S83 separately and still be all-in at under $500.

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

Note: if you buy something from Adorama they will never stop sending you emails. They have good deals but they're hella thirsty.

mariooncrack
Dec 27, 2008

Ok Comboomer posted:

lmao at bundling in the smaller S81 center instead of its larger sibling that would actually match the drivers in the floorstanders, but for that price you could honestly just buy the S83 separately and still be all-in at under $500.

I think they sell a set for ~$399 with the S83.

aparmenideanmonad
Jan 28, 2004
Balls to you and your way of mortal opinions - you don't exist anyway!
Fun Shoe

mariooncrack posted:

I think they sell a set for ~$399 with the S83.

Indeed: https://slickdeals.net/f/15458212-j...teSearchV2Algo1

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

does the deal set come in white? The S803 sets do

Inept
Jul 8, 2003

If my TV has enough HDMI ports, is there a downside to just using ARC/eARC and leaving the high bandwidth video to it? Basically so I don't have to worry about HDMI 2.1 on a receiver and can get a much cheaper one.

aparmenideanmonad
Jan 28, 2004
Balls to you and your way of mortal opinions - you don't exist anyway!
Fun Shoe

Ok Comboomer posted:

does the deal set come in white? The S803 sets do

That one is black only - I did a cursory search on slickdeals and didn't see any deals on white towers, just bookshelf combos.

aparmenideanmonad fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Jan 28, 2022

Lifespan
Mar 5, 2002

Inept posted:

If my TV has enough HDMI ports, is there a downside to just using ARC/eARC and leaving the high bandwidth video to it? Basically so I don't have to worry about HDMI 2.1 on a receiver and can get a much cheaper one.

ARC is lower bandwidth so it can't transmit anything more than Dolby Digital or Atmos without TrueHD. My understanding is the only downside of eARC is that there are sync issues sometimes.

Louisgod
Sep 25, 2003

Always Watching
Bread Liar
Have a question and I’m not sure if it should go to the tv thread or this but I’ll throw it here since I think it’s more audio specific.

Have a Pheanoo sound bar, one of the cheaper ones on Amazon, and in general it works great. Only problem I’m running into is that during silent or otherwise very parts of video games, no sound is being outputted. I’ve messed with the settings on the tv to the point where I can’t think of anything else to try, and I don’t know what else to do. TV is a 65” OLED, a more recent model.

I know it’s the soundbar since when playing my Switch I can connect bluetooth headphones to it and get all the sound, but flipping to the bar gives me silence (example, playing Phoenix Wright, during dialogue scenes you tend to have morse code-like sounds but they don’t come through until something louder comes up, almost like the bar is “asleep”). Feel free to kick me to another thread if this isn’t the place to ask.

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

Louisgod posted:

I know it’s the soundbar since when playing my Switch I can connect bluetooth headphones to it and get all the sound, but flipping to the bar gives me silence (example, playing Phoenix Wright, during dialogue scenes you tend to have morse code-like sounds but they don’t come through until something louder comes up, almost like the bar is “asleep”). Feel free to kick me to another thread if this isn’t the place to ask.
Maybe try switching from HDMI to optical [or vice versa depending on how you have it set up]? Since it looks like an Amazon parts bin brand I'm not sure if there's such thing as support but it might be worth a try. Hilariously the listed address on their website is someone's house in Portland so if you can find this person you might be in business:

Louisgod
Sep 25, 2003

Always Watching
Bread Liar
Ahaha that’s fantastic, I’m only 100 miles away from Portland so maybe a roadtrip is due soon. I do have the bar set up through optical and did try to mess with the settings best I can but with no luck. All good though, was curious if there was an easy ‘aha’ setting folks knew about.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
That sounds like an auto-on thing and on my sub it's managed by a three-way switch for on-off-auto.

Idk what settings your sound bar has available, but try turning off any power saving stuff or "auto" signal presence.

CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK
Sep 11, 2001



Agreeing with auto-on probably being the culprit. Especially if you are running it through optical, which has been known to have problems relating to waking up or wake up lag. If you can, just set your soundbar to "on" rather than auto. It won't use any more power than the standby / auto-on mode if it's not getting a signal.
If you are using an analog output to your soundbar, you can try maxing out the sound on your tv and then controlling the volume through your soundbar. That might help with signal strength and help it wake up during extremely low volume parts.

Some equipment just sends out weak signal. Some equipment has a lovely plug / receiver and takes a lot of voltage to wake up. Some equipment also goes back into standby mode after 5 to 20 seconds of not receiving a signal instead of being on for like 10+ minutes. This is why I kinda hate gear with auto-on that doesn't also have a simple "on" setting.

SweetMercifulCrap!
Jan 28, 2012
Lipstick Apathy

Inept posted:

If my TV has enough HDMI ports, is there a downside to just using ARC/eARC and leaving the high bandwidth video to it? Basically so I don't have to worry about HDMI 2.1 on a receiver and can get a much cheaper one.

Well, it depends. On one hand, hooking everything through the TV is usually a simpler setup and you'll only need one remote (though most TVs can control the receiver too). By connecting directly to the TV you also get some HDMI-specific features that might be lost with connecting through the receiver.

On the other hand, having the TV pass through any audio signal will result in at least some loss in audio quality. In terms of the audio signal itself, there is NO difference between using standard ARC and Optical. eARC can pass through uncompressed surround, BUT there's still typically some signal compression performed by the TV. Also, any time you pass audio through the TV first, there will be some audio delay. You might not notice it in movies/TV, but you will notice it in video games.

In my opinion, ARC and eARC should be reserved for soundbars and similar devices and not receivers that have multiple HDMI inputs.

Lifespan
Mar 5, 2002
Ugh, finally had to just give in and pay the higher than new price for the refurb S760H. At least it comes with a longer warranty which totally matters because I have had multiple cheapish AVRs (all Onkyo) poo poo the bed within their first couple of years.

Louisgod
Sep 25, 2003

Always Watching
Bread Liar
Quick update on my sound bar: I drove to Portland and beat the fuckin poo poo out of the owner of Pheanoo and threw my bar through his car window

Nah actually I did some digging and apparently the bar goes to sleep after 8 seconds and the fix I guess is a firmware update via usb stick, so I emailed them to ask for help.

SweetMercifulCrap!
Jan 28, 2012
Lipstick Apathy
I've been trying for a while to find a cheap, small, powered, wired subwoofer to complete my 3.1 setup in my bedroom. Think the kind that typically come packaged with soundbars and are usually around 6". I would just buy a new soundbar and not use the bar itself, but these days the bundled subwoofer is always wireless and proprietary for that soundbar. I just want something to fill out the sound, not rattle the place since this is a bedroom in an apartment. Aside from randomly finding one at a pawn shop, I'm not sure where else to look really. Any ideas?

Animale
Sep 30, 2009

SweetMercifulCrap! posted:

I've been trying for a while to find a cheap, small, powered, wired subwoofer to complete my 3.1 setup in my bedroom. Think the kind that typically come packaged with soundbars and are usually around 6". I would just buy a new soundbar and not use the bar itself, but these days the bundled subwoofer is always wireless and proprietary for that soundbar. I just want something to fill out the sound, not rattle the place since this is a bedroom in an apartment. Aside from randomly finding one at a pawn shop, I'm not sure where else to look really. Any ideas?

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-core-series-10-115w-active-subwoofer-black/5721005.p?skuId=5721005 just get this or whatever Polk fits your price range.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

SweetMercifulCrap! posted:

I've been trying for a while to find a cheap, small, powered, wired subwoofer to complete my 3.1 setup in my bedroom. Think the kind that typically come packaged with soundbars and are usually around 6". I would just buy a new soundbar and not use the bar itself, but these days the bundled subwoofer is always wireless and proprietary for that soundbar. I just want something to fill out the sound, not rattle the place since this is a bedroom in an apartment. Aside from randomly finding one at a pawn shop, I'm not sure where else to look really. Any ideas?

Maybe this one? It's slimmer and you could hide it wherever: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1000L-10-100-Watt-Low-Profile-Powered-Subw-300-639

SweetMercifulCrap!
Jan 28, 2012
Lipstick Apathy
Those are both too big. I know I could just turn it down, but I'm also low on space. It's a small bedroom.

aparmenideanmonad
Jan 28, 2004
Balls to you and your way of mortal opinions - you don't exist anyway!
Fun Shoe

SweetMercifulCrap! posted:

Those are both too big. I know I could just turn it down, but I'm also low on space. It's a small bedroom.
Not sure how small is worth going with a sub, how big are your mains? Anyway, here's some 8" options and one 6.5". I'd only recommend Jamo (first one) as a brand but the other ones should be serviceable.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Lq9745CuXFQ/p_701S808SWB/Jamo-S-808-SUB-Black.html
Slim upright form factor: 14"x7"x18"
$150

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33829
Slim low profile form factor: 21"x16"x6" - this and the dayton above could both go under a couch or other furniture.
$130

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8248
Small box form factor: 14"x12"x12"
$90

And a real soundbar-sized one with a 6.5" driver.

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Audio-PSW-6-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00KGA6A8A
Small box form factor: 11"x10"x9"
$95

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

there’s an 8” one for $3 more that’s probably the sweet spot if budget is the big concern

SweetMercifulCrap!
Jan 28, 2012
Lipstick Apathy
Thanks for the help. Most of those are still bigger than what I want, but

aparmenideanmonad posted:

And a real soundbar-sized one with a 6.5" driver.

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Audio-PSW-6-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00KGA6A8A
Small box form factor: 11"x10"x9"
$95

this is basically what I want, but I don't want down-firing. I just found this: https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-6-inch-Powered-Subwoofer-Matte/dp/B076FJ4LM6/

Never heard of the brand and it's pricey for such a small subwoofer, but this might work.

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

Kanto is a decent brand, I’ve never heard their subs but they make solid stuff.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

SweetMercifulCrap! posted:

Thanks for the help. Most of those are still bigger than what I want, but

this is basically what I want, but I don't want down-firing. I just found this: https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-6-inch-Powered-Subwoofer-Matte/dp/B076FJ4LM6/

Never heard of the brand and it's pricey for such a small subwoofer, but this might work.

Have you considered just getting better bookshelf speakers?

The tiny sub market barely exists because you can just get better primary speakers in the first place and fill the role that a 6" sub would with fewer parts, wires, and overall expense.

vs Dinosaurs
Mar 14, 2009

Twerk from Home posted:

Have you considered just getting better bookshelf speakers?

The tiny sub market barely exists because you can just get better primary speakers in the first place and fill the role that a 6" sub would with fewer parts, wires, and overall expense.

I would second this; the Kali audio LP6 is quite capable with those lower frequencies.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Twerk from Home posted:

Have you considered just getting better bookshelf speakers?

The tiny sub market barely exists because you can just get better primary speakers in the first place and fill the role that a 6" sub would with fewer parts, wires, and overall expense.

for real. Adding a 6” subwoofer to fill out a soundbar is like the “condom, but only on your balls” to a pair of 6.5” speakers (powered or passive).

If the issue is furniture space just pop em on some stands

SweetMercifulCrap!
Jan 28, 2012
Lipstick Apathy

Twerk from Home posted:

Have you considered just getting better bookshelf speakers?

The tiny sub market barely exists because you can just get better primary speakers in the first place and fill the role that a 6" sub would with fewer parts, wires, and overall expense.

That's a good point. I have a pair of Klipsch Reference 5" on which have a minimum frequency of 62hz. I've also never been too impressed with them to begin with. I might consider this instead.

CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

I guess I'm in the market for a new receiver.. .my 12 year old Onkyo TX-SR607 is doing some weird sound stuttering occasionally and it's getting real annoying. The HDMI went out long ago, so I'm outputting TOSLINK from the TV to the receiver. It's time for an upgrade.

I've got a 3.1 setup right now using NHT SuperOne bookshelf speakers and center, with a 15" Velodyne sub. I've got three more NHT surround speakers but I haven't run wires for them yet, maybe I'll get around to that this spring. I figure I'll just run two for the 5.1 setup. The only feature I really want is eARC... actually, are there receivers out there that will output to a bluetooth device? New baby at home means me or the wife are up at weird times, and it would be nice to be able to put on some headphones at night instead of using the whole system. I had planned to just buy a transmitter and adapt it to the receiver, maybe that's still an option if that's not a feature newer receivers have.

I'm not in a big rush to buy, so are there any recommendations on what models I should set up for deal alerts?

E: Mostly used for watching TV or movies, only gaming console is a Switch. Budget is flexible, I want to get something that will last me another decade. No more than $1k

e2: read back a couple pages and looks like something in this list might fit the bill

xgalaxy posted:

Denon: AVR-S760H or AVR-S660H
Onkyo: NR-6100, NR-7100, TX-RZ50
Pioneer: VSX-LX105, VSX-LX305, VSX-LX505

CloFan fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Feb 5, 2022

Incessant Excess
Aug 15, 2005

Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness
Getting new speakers made me rewatch Ghost Protocol and that movie rules, the surround during the sandstorm bit was very good as well.

xgalaxy
Jan 27, 2004
i write code
Anyone have any alternatives to this:
https://nadelectronics.com/product/d-3045-hybrid-digital-dac-amplifier/

Mainly want to use it for connecting some passive speakers to my PC.
Just curious if there are other products out there for comparison.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I have a D7050, very happy with it, though you might want look for a t-amp of some sort. Sound quality can be a bit hit or miss, depending on who made it.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
Guys I came upon a passive sub and need a cheap sub amp so I can add it to my 2.1 for 2.2 sound.

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

xgalaxy posted:

Anyone have any alternatives to this:
https://nadelectronics.com/product/d-3045-hybrid-digital-dac-amplifier/

Mainly want to use it for connecting some passive speakers to my PC.
Just curious if there are other products out there for comparison.

Look at the Topping MX5, Topping PA5 & E50 combo or SMSL AO200. There’s a ton of other cheap amps without DACs as well.

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


Wasabi the J posted:

Guys I came upon a passive sub and need a cheap sub amp so I can add it to my 2.1 for 2.2 sound.

I just bought this one for bass shakers on my sim rig. Fair warning - I had to return the first one because it was DOA but hey next day delivery who cares

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Un...aps%2C56&sr=8-3

The real answer is, of course, used equipment - if you can find it.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

xgalaxy posted:

Anyone have any alternatives to this:
https://nadelectronics.com/product/d-3045-hybrid-digital-dac-amplifier/

Mainly want to use it for connecting some passive speakers to my PC.
Just curious if there are other products out there for comparison.

I know very little about sound equipment, why does this 2x60W amp cost so much more than your typical living room receiver?

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qirex
Feb 15, 2001

Fozzy The Bear posted:

I know very little about sound equipment, why does this 2x60W amp cost so much more than your typical living room receiver?

The brand name, it’s small, HDMI ARC, it isn’t “60 watts [10% THD at 2 ohms one channel driven]” like a lot of cheap Chi-fi amps. NAD usually under-advertises amp power compared to most companies.

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