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Ok Comboomer posted:I think the A170s are a great choice. If you can afford to stretch your budget a bit I think the 180s or 190s could only be better, but also you’re not missing out on a ton if the eventual goal is to add a subwoofer down the road. Yeah I think I will probably add a sub down the road shortly, and maybe a center, depending on how I feel about the setup once it's up and running. Thanks for the help, will get these ordered and post a trip report
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# ? Jan 27, 2022 21:22 |
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# ? May 19, 2024 12:30 |
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You could also get a pair of these ridiculous beauties. I wish I had the space(or need) for them. You definitely won't need a subwoofer with these speakers. e: GentlemanofLeisure posted:Do you have a vendor recommendation for the 570's? Looks like the lowest they've ever been on Amazon is $250/ea but right now they're about $300/ea. A bit late of a reply, but from jbl.com itself. It would have the best discount / prices when they go on sale. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jan 27, 2022 |
# ? Jan 27, 2022 22:11 |
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Do you have a vendor recommendation for the 570's? Looks like the lowest they've ever been on Amazon is $250/ea but right now they're about $300/ea. Jamo speakers go on sale all the time on adorama through slickdeals. https://slickdeals.net/f/15547831-jamo-s-809-5-0-home-cinema-pack-black-1064325-h-adorama-359?src=SiteSearchV2Algo It says expired but if you click the link, it shows up on adorama for $359. It's a sponsored deal through slickdeals. I think I paid ~$230 for my S809 pair but I wish I had bought a package like this instead.
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# ? Jan 28, 2022 05:19 |
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mariooncrack posted:Jamo speakers go on sale all the time on adorama through slickdeals. lmao at bundling in the smaller S81 center instead of its larger sibling that would actually match the drivers in the floorstanders, but for that price you could honestly just buy the S83 separately and still be all-in at under $500.
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# ? Jan 28, 2022 05:36 |
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Note: if you buy something from Adorama they will never stop sending you emails. They have good deals but they're hella thirsty.
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# ? Jan 28, 2022 08:53 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:lmao at bundling in the smaller S81 center instead of its larger sibling that would actually match the drivers in the floorstanders, but for that price you could honestly just buy the S83 separately and still be all-in at under $500. I think they sell a set for ~$399 with the S83.
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# ? Jan 28, 2022 16:42 |
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mariooncrack posted:I think they sell a set for ~$399 with the S83. Indeed: https://slickdeals.net/f/15458212-j...teSearchV2Algo1
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# ? Jan 28, 2022 17:58 |
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does the deal set come in white? The S803 sets do
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# ? Jan 28, 2022 18:14 |
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If my TV has enough HDMI ports, is there a downside to just using ARC/eARC and leaving the high bandwidth video to it? Basically so I don't have to worry about HDMI 2.1 on a receiver and can get a much cheaper one.
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# ? Jan 28, 2022 20:08 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:does the deal set come in white? The S803 sets do That one is black only - I did a cursory search on slickdeals and didn't see any deals on white towers, just bookshelf combos. aparmenideanmonad fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Jan 28, 2022 |
# ? Jan 28, 2022 20:26 |
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Inept posted:If my TV has enough HDMI ports, is there a downside to just using ARC/eARC and leaving the high bandwidth video to it? Basically so I don't have to worry about HDMI 2.1 on a receiver and can get a much cheaper one. ARC is lower bandwidth so it can't transmit anything more than Dolby Digital or Atmos without TrueHD. My understanding is the only downside of eARC is that there are sync issues sometimes.
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# ? Jan 28, 2022 20:31 |
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Have a question and I’m not sure if it should go to the tv thread or this but I’ll throw it here since I think it’s more audio specific. Have a Pheanoo sound bar, one of the cheaper ones on Amazon, and in general it works great. Only problem I’m running into is that during silent or otherwise very parts of video games, no sound is being outputted. I’ve messed with the settings on the tv to the point where I can’t think of anything else to try, and I don’t know what else to do. TV is a 65” OLED, a more recent model. I know it’s the soundbar since when playing my Switch I can connect bluetooth headphones to it and get all the sound, but flipping to the bar gives me silence (example, playing Phoenix Wright, during dialogue scenes you tend to have morse code-like sounds but they don’t come through until something louder comes up, almost like the bar is “asleep”). Feel free to kick me to another thread if this isn’t the place to ask.
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# ? Jan 29, 2022 17:53 |
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Louisgod posted:I know it’s the soundbar since when playing my Switch I can connect bluetooth headphones to it and get all the sound, but flipping to the bar gives me silence (example, playing Phoenix Wright, during dialogue scenes you tend to have morse code-like sounds but they don’t come through until something louder comes up, almost like the bar is “asleep”). Feel free to kick me to another thread if this isn’t the place to ask.
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# ? Jan 29, 2022 18:13 |
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Ahaha that’s fantastic, I’m only 100 miles away from Portland so maybe a roadtrip is due soon. I do have the bar set up through optical and did try to mess with the settings best I can but with no luck. All good though, was curious if there was an easy ‘aha’ setting folks knew about.
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# ? Jan 29, 2022 18:26 |
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That sounds like an auto-on thing and on my sub it's managed by a three-way switch for on-off-auto. Idk what settings your sound bar has available, but try turning off any power saving stuff or "auto" signal presence.
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# ? Jan 29, 2022 19:16 |
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Agreeing with auto-on probably being the culprit. Especially if you are running it through optical, which has been known to have problems relating to waking up or wake up lag. If you can, just set your soundbar to "on" rather than auto. It won't use any more power than the standby / auto-on mode if it's not getting a signal. If you are using an analog output to your soundbar, you can try maxing out the sound on your tv and then controlling the volume through your soundbar. That might help with signal strength and help it wake up during extremely low volume parts. Some equipment just sends out weak signal. Some equipment has a lovely plug / receiver and takes a lot of voltage to wake up. Some equipment also goes back into standby mode after 5 to 20 seconds of not receiving a signal instead of being on for like 10+ minutes. This is why I kinda hate gear with auto-on that doesn't also have a simple "on" setting.
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# ? Jan 29, 2022 20:10 |
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Inept posted:If my TV has enough HDMI ports, is there a downside to just using ARC/eARC and leaving the high bandwidth video to it? Basically so I don't have to worry about HDMI 2.1 on a receiver and can get a much cheaper one. Well, it depends. On one hand, hooking everything through the TV is usually a simpler setup and you'll only need one remote (though most TVs can control the receiver too). By connecting directly to the TV you also get some HDMI-specific features that might be lost with connecting through the receiver. On the other hand, having the TV pass through any audio signal will result in at least some loss in audio quality. In terms of the audio signal itself, there is NO difference between using standard ARC and Optical. eARC can pass through uncompressed surround, BUT there's still typically some signal compression performed by the TV. Also, any time you pass audio through the TV first, there will be some audio delay. You might not notice it in movies/TV, but you will notice it in video games. In my opinion, ARC and eARC should be reserved for soundbars and similar devices and not receivers that have multiple HDMI inputs.
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# ? Jan 29, 2022 20:13 |
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Ugh, finally had to just give in and pay the higher than new price for the refurb S760H. At least it comes with a longer warranty which totally matters because I have had multiple cheapish AVRs (all Onkyo) poo poo the bed within their first couple of years.
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# ? Jan 29, 2022 20:21 |
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Quick update on my sound bar: I drove to Portland and beat the fuckin poo poo out of the owner of Pheanoo and threw my bar through his car window Nah actually I did some digging and apparently the bar goes to sleep after 8 seconds and the fix I guess is a firmware update via usb stick, so I emailed them to ask for help.
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# ? Jan 30, 2022 01:22 |
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I've been trying for a while to find a cheap, small, powered, wired subwoofer to complete my 3.1 setup in my bedroom. Think the kind that typically come packaged with soundbars and are usually around 6". I would just buy a new soundbar and not use the bar itself, but these days the bundled subwoofer is always wireless and proprietary for that soundbar. I just want something to fill out the sound, not rattle the place since this is a bedroom in an apartment. Aside from randomly finding one at a pawn shop, I'm not sure where else to look really. Any ideas?
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# ? Jan 31, 2022 23:23 |
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SweetMercifulCrap! posted:I've been trying for a while to find a cheap, small, powered, wired subwoofer to complete my 3.1 setup in my bedroom. Think the kind that typically come packaged with soundbars and are usually around 6". I would just buy a new soundbar and not use the bar itself, but these days the bundled subwoofer is always wireless and proprietary for that soundbar. I just want something to fill out the sound, not rattle the place since this is a bedroom in an apartment. Aside from randomly finding one at a pawn shop, I'm not sure where else to look really. Any ideas? https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-core-series-10-115w-active-subwoofer-black/5721005.p?skuId=5721005 just get this or whatever Polk fits your price range.
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# ? Jan 31, 2022 23:38 |
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SweetMercifulCrap! posted:I've been trying for a while to find a cheap, small, powered, wired subwoofer to complete my 3.1 setup in my bedroom. Think the kind that typically come packaged with soundbars and are usually around 6". I would just buy a new soundbar and not use the bar itself, but these days the bundled subwoofer is always wireless and proprietary for that soundbar. I just want something to fill out the sound, not rattle the place since this is a bedroom in an apartment. Aside from randomly finding one at a pawn shop, I'm not sure where else to look really. Any ideas? Maybe this one? It's slimmer and you could hide it wherever: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1000L-10-100-Watt-Low-Profile-Powered-Subw-300-639
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# ? Jan 31, 2022 23:42 |
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Those are both too big. I know I could just turn it down, but I'm also low on space. It's a small bedroom.
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# ? Jan 31, 2022 23:50 |
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SweetMercifulCrap! posted:Those are both too big. I know I could just turn it down, but I'm also low on space. It's a small bedroom. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Lq9745CuXFQ/p_701S808SWB/Jamo-S-808-SUB-Black.html Slim upright form factor: 14"x7"x18" $150 https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33829 Slim low profile form factor: 21"x16"x6" - this and the dayton above could both go under a couch or other furniture. $130 https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8248 Small box form factor: 14"x12"x12" $90 And a real soundbar-sized one with a 6.5" driver. https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Audio-PSW-6-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00KGA6A8A Small box form factor: 11"x10"x9" $95
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# ? Feb 1, 2022 00:20 |
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aparmenideanmonad posted:https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Audio-PSW-6-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00KGA6A8A there’s an 8” one for $3 more that’s probably the sweet spot if budget is the big concern
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# ? Feb 1, 2022 00:25 |
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Thanks for the help. Most of those are still bigger than what I want, butaparmenideanmonad posted:And a real soundbar-sized one with a 6.5" driver. this is basically what I want, but I don't want down-firing. I just found this: https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-6-inch-Powered-Subwoofer-Matte/dp/B076FJ4LM6/ Never heard of the brand and it's pricey for such a small subwoofer, but this might work.
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# ? Feb 1, 2022 18:56 |
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Kanto is a decent brand, I’ve never heard their subs but they make solid stuff.
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# ? Feb 1, 2022 19:04 |
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SweetMercifulCrap! posted:Thanks for the help. Most of those are still bigger than what I want, but Have you considered just getting better bookshelf speakers? The tiny sub market barely exists because you can just get better primary speakers in the first place and fill the role that a 6" sub would with fewer parts, wires, and overall expense.
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# ? Feb 1, 2022 19:13 |
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Twerk from Home posted:Have you considered just getting better bookshelf speakers? I would second this; the Kali audio LP6 is quite capable with those lower frequencies.
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# ? Feb 1, 2022 19:29 |
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Twerk from Home posted:Have you considered just getting better bookshelf speakers? for real. Adding a 6” subwoofer to fill out a soundbar is like the “condom, but only on your balls” to a pair of 6.5” speakers (powered or passive). If the issue is furniture space just pop em on some stands
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# ? Feb 1, 2022 19:32 |
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Twerk from Home posted:Have you considered just getting better bookshelf speakers? That's a good point. I have a pair of Klipsch Reference 5" on which have a minimum frequency of 62hz. I've also never been too impressed with them to begin with. I might consider this instead.
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# ? Feb 1, 2022 19:46 |
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I guess I'm in the market for a new receiver.. .my 12 year old Onkyo TX-SR607 is doing some weird sound stuttering occasionally and it's getting real annoying. The HDMI went out long ago, so I'm outputting TOSLINK from the TV to the receiver. It's time for an upgrade. I've got a 3.1 setup right now using NHT SuperOne bookshelf speakers and center, with a 15" Velodyne sub. I've got three more NHT surround speakers but I haven't run wires for them yet, maybe I'll get around to that this spring. I figure I'll just run two for the 5.1 setup. The only feature I really want is eARC... actually, are there receivers out there that will output to a bluetooth device? New baby at home means me or the wife are up at weird times, and it would be nice to be able to put on some headphones at night instead of using the whole system. I had planned to just buy a transmitter and adapt it to the receiver, maybe that's still an option if that's not a feature newer receivers have. I'm not in a big rush to buy, so are there any recommendations on what models I should set up for deal alerts? E: Mostly used for watching TV or movies, only gaming console is a Switch. Budget is flexible, I want to get something that will last me another decade. No more than $1k e2: read back a couple pages and looks like something in this list might fit the bill xgalaxy posted:Denon: AVR-S760H or AVR-S660H CloFan fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Feb 5, 2022 |
# ? Feb 5, 2022 18:32 |
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Getting new speakers made me rewatch Ghost Protocol and that movie rules, the surround during the sandstorm bit was very good as well.
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# ? Feb 5, 2022 20:53 |
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Anyone have any alternatives to this: https://nadelectronics.com/product/d-3045-hybrid-digital-dac-amplifier/ Mainly want to use it for connecting some passive speakers to my PC. Just curious if there are other products out there for comparison.
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# ? Feb 14, 2022 22:48 |
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I have a D7050, very happy with it, though you might want look for a t-amp of some sort. Sound quality can be a bit hit or miss, depending on who made it.
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 00:07 |
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Guys I came upon a passive sub and need a cheap sub amp so I can add it to my 2.1 for 2.2 sound.
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 00:31 |
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xgalaxy posted:Anyone have any alternatives to this: Look at the Topping MX5, Topping PA5 & E50 combo or SMSL AO200. There’s a ton of other cheap amps without DACs as well.
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 04:26 |
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Wasabi the J posted:Guys I came upon a passive sub and need a cheap sub amp so I can add it to my 2.1 for 2.2 sound. I just bought this one for bass shakers on my sim rig. Fair warning - I had to return the first one because it was DOA but hey next day delivery who cares https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Un...aps%2C56&sr=8-3 The real answer is, of course, used equipment - if you can find it.
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 05:47 |
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xgalaxy posted:Anyone have any alternatives to this: I know very little about sound equipment, why does this 2x60W amp cost so much more than your typical living room receiver?
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# ? Feb 17, 2022 01:09 |
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# ? May 19, 2024 12:30 |
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I know very little about sound equipment, why does this 2x60W amp cost so much more than your typical living room receiver? The brand name, it’s small, HDMI ARC, it isn’t “60 watts [10% THD at 2 ohms one channel driven]” like a lot of cheap Chi-fi amps. NAD usually under-advertises amp power compared to most companies.
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# ? Feb 17, 2022 03:33 |