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Honda / Civic / 2016 / 2.0L 4 cylinder / 63,000~ miles On Monday I started the car for work only to find a bunch of new warning lights on the dash (power-steering/brake system/ traction detection/ tire pressure). Took it back to the dealership this afternoon, and their diagnosis is that the power steering motor is starting to fault out and could "catastrophically fail" at any time. That's a thing I'd like to avoid, so I've got the car parked and am borrowing a relative's now. The dealership quoted me at $1,700 to replace it, with an unknown wait time as the parts on back order. My dumb question is: would it be worth calling other auto repair places near me and asking them for quotes on replacing the power steering motor, or is this a situation where the part is the part and I'm not going find anything better? This is my first car, and I haven't had a major issue before now.
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Feb 2, 2022 23:51
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Definitely wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in, but all those warning lights don't scream "bad power steering motor" to me. Additionally, I've had the power steering fail on a car before and all that happened was that it became a car without power steering (most noticeable effect is that steering takes more effort at low speeds) but the rest of the car was fine and continued to be fine.
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Feb 2, 2022 23:56
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Scrree posted:Honda / Civic / 2016 / 2.0L 4 cylinder / 63,000~ miles I would really try to pull the codes yourself (or find out from the dealership what they were) because you can't really go off what they tell you. How did the car feel to drive on the way to the dealership? I don't know much about the car, if it's a power steering pump driven by an accessory belt and you suddenly have a bunch of lights on the dash my immediate suspicion is the belt isn't tensioned properly or something. If it's an electric pump and you're having these warnings all of a sudden, check the connections, check your battery connections/grounding. Definitely get those codes and start googling around to see if it's a common thing with a known fix. e: also, the whole point of owning a Honda is that they're cheap to work on/have repaired, I really wouldn't go to a dealership unless you were still under warranty. Call some independent shops in your area, look at reviews on Google, ask your friends, etc. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Feb 3, 2022 |
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Feb 3, 2022 00:06
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Goon mentioned power steering 'motor' probably has electric assist power steering. My Corolla from 09 has it. Other than that I can't really assist. If the motor does fail, you probably can still steer, it'll just be more difficult.
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Feb 3, 2022 00:14
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How old is your battery?
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Feb 3, 2022 00:18
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Those lights sound legit to me. My wife's 2012 CR-V lit up lights for VSC, traction control, "genie lamp," and more (TPMS maybe, but I think that might have been lit before, it has a bad sensor) when it had a single code related to a VTC actuator (a cam gear too "smart" for its own good). I would not be surprised at all if a car with a code related to a steering assist motor or sensor lit up the dash like an RGB keyboard. $1700 seems within reason for a dealer steering rack replacement. Parts store steering racks won't be nearly the same quality, but they will be cheaper. Dealer labor is usually expensive (1.5x-2x the per hour rate of an independent mechanic), and a steering rack R&R is definitely going to require a wheel alignment when all is said and done (typically a $100+ service by itself around here). I would HOPE the catastrophic failure of modern electric power steering is sudden loss of assist, but I suppose if the motor freezes, the steering shaft might also end up locked, which is pretty much as bad as a "sudden, total, unexpected loss of braking ability." I don't own anything with electric assist steering, so I don't know. Be strong, have them disable the steering assist and drive manual steering like the Civics of olde! Holy poo poo, a steering rack from O'Reilly Auto Parts is $1135! Rock Auto doesn't have any listings that are in stock. It looks like Honda MSRP on the rack assembly is $2300+ (about $1750 if you buy from a Honda OEM parts reseller online), so maybe the dealer repair quote is already using a parts store unit. For comparison's sake, a parts store rack for my fancy-at-the-time 1995 Lexus SC400 costs about $200. Sure, it also has a power steering pump and some hydraulic lines, but that stuff doesn't add $900 to the total. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Feb 3, 2022 |
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Feb 3, 2022 00:19
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Gene Hackman Fan posted:Trying to help a neighbor out on their '07 Avalanche, 5.3l, and I guess I got two questions: 1) I seriously doubt it. 2) Yes, limp mode won't let the car shift out of first gear, generally, and keeps the rpms low. The car will run well enough to get to home or to a repair shop, but will run. What kind of manufacturer's warranty would still be applicable to a 15 year old car?
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Feb 3, 2022 02:02
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Deteriorata posted:What kind of manufacturer's warranty would still be applicable to a 15 year old car? Remanufacturer. It's got a new/rebuilt motor in it.
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Feb 3, 2022 02:11
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2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Brand new battery, everything wired correctly. But when I'm driving every bump will cause the battery light to come on. I've isolated it to here:  If I just barely touch, I mean gentlest touch, this cable running to the positive battery post, the problem occurs. The other positive wires are tight and secure. It's just this one cable and it's only at that bit where the plastic and exposed copper meet. So my question is: what's the fix? Does this cable have a name? Who carries it if it needs to be replaced?
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Feb 3, 2022 02:26
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That's not a cable you're pointing to. It's a fuse. It's attached to the battery and the cable is attached to the other side of the fuse under all that tape. I'll let people who know that platform better say if it factory or not, but it doesn't look it. I mean....it so doesn't look it that it's definitely not. But I don't know what it's supposed to look like. Take the tape off. Clean the connections on both sides. That's at least a start.
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Feb 3, 2022 02:32
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there is a lot of electrical tape in that photo. Factories don't tend to use electrical tape. Problems when going over bumps does sound like a loose connection. Anything taped is where I'd start investigating.
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Feb 3, 2022 04:40
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A GLISTENING HODOR posted:2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser That is absolutely not a factory part:  https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/littelfuse/lighting---electrical/fuses/fuses/da78d762ece6/littelfuse-125-amp-mega-fuse/lit0/meg125bp and that is not the factory battery connector:  Nor does Toyota get that sloppy with electrical tape just out like that. My guess is your FJCruiser has some aftermarket lights or stereo system in it, is that true? Someone switched out the terminal for the one you have so they could branch off some extra wiring. Not bad in itself really, but amateurs tend to really muck things up in ways that is impossible to tell without tearing into it. EDIT That 'cable' is probably that fuse with some wire sticking out the back of it under all that tape. KakerMix fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Feb 3, 2022 |
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Feb 3, 2022 04:41
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Motronic posted:That's not a cable you're pointing to. It's a fuse. It's attached to the battery and the cable is attached to the other side of the fuse under all that tape. Well poo poo, you guys are right. Under like a pound of electrical tape there's a joint where the cable itself connects to this completely separate fuse with a nut and bolt. And the fuse is $5 at AutoZone. Hot drat, this is going to be a million times easier to fix than I was expecting. Thanks everyone.
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Feb 3, 2022 05:47
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Treat that as a temporary fix. A better / permanent fix would involve swapping out the terminals for "military style" terminals like these that are properly designed to accommodate multiple cable lugs like that: As well as probably replacing some of those battery cables. Battery cables are difficult to properly repair and if someone else has already hamfisted it before you, there's probably not enough slack left to cut it shorter and do it right.
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Feb 3, 2022 07:02
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That battery clamp is designed to put cable in and clamp it down with the plate and the two bolts. It wasn't designed to have eyelets on the bolts. I would replace that. The suggestion from the poster above looks decent. The factory clamps shouldn't be too expensive from the dealer either.
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Feb 3, 2022 07:53
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If i had to guess, the fuse has a hairline crack in it due to the cable pulling down on it and vibrating it while driving. The cable has quite a lever force on it with one end fixed. I'm not sure a fuse of that style is designed to handle mechanical load like that, but it might be fine? Does anyone know?
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Feb 3, 2022 07:56
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spankmeister posted:If i had to guess, the fuse has a hairline crack in it due to the cable pulling down on it and vibrating it while driving. The cable has quite a lever force on it with one end fixed. I'm not sure a fuse of that style is designed to handle mechanical load like that, but it might be fine? Does anyone know? Fuses are typically go/no go, but also I bet you're right about mechanical loading. The question here is what are we looking at? If that's a factory connection (the cable going to the fuse) surely it's fused in the engine bay somewhere so that extra fuse is useless. If that's not a factory cable and it's all accessories I'd want to mount a fuse holder somewhere under the hood, run it there and then bring it back to a new and proper battery terminal. But if that is a new run for accessories I'd be very much scrutinizing the quality of work done and whether I really need whatever it's for.
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Feb 3, 2022 15:03
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So what’s the point of the fuse then? Seems like it should just be remove entirely. Edit: ^^ yea, that
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Feb 3, 2022 15:12
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latinotwink1997 posted:So what’s the point of the fuse then? Seems like it should just be remove entirely. It's a fuse for the alternator. Toyotas use a fusible link ordinarily, IIRC. My guess is that somebody fried it trying to jump it backwards, then bodged up a replacement with the fuse because the fusible link was too expensive or difficult to fix.
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Feb 3, 2022 15:30
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Deteriorata posted:It's a fuse for the alternator. Toyotas use a fusible link ordinarily, IIRC. My guess is that somebody fried it trying to jump it backwards, then bodged up a replacement with the fuse because the fusible link was too expensive or difficult to fix. That makes sense. If it's supposed to be a fusible link I'd be all over the dealership parts counter to put every last bit of that back to factory condition.
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Feb 3, 2022 15:54
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Fuses pretty much always go into some kind of holder. I always figured it was for electrical insulation, but being able to mount the fuse is great, and putting any mechanical load on the holder on the fuse is probably good too. Also, the style of battery terminal connected to that fuse is not particularly reliable, especially when you clamp bare battery wire.
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Feb 3, 2022 17:42
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Crossposting from the off-road thread, as this may be a better place: I have a 2021 Lunar Rock 4Runner TRD Pro. Resale is pretty nuts right now, and I can drat near do a new 1:1 trade for a 2022 Lexus GX460 Blackline in Nori Green. My TRD is a very capable off-roader, but I like some of the creature comforts and safety features of the GX460. I currently use the 4runner for errands and a few roadtrips/camping/light off-roading. Would this be a bad decision? Lexus GX460  My 4Runner 
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Feb 3, 2022 19:31
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when you say pricewise it'd be a straight swap, are you accounting for taxes and fees in your area?
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Feb 3, 2022 19:38
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arbybaconator posted:Crossposting from the off-road thread, as this may be a better place: Are you planning to lift/build out the
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Feb 3, 2022 19:41
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Leperflesh posted:when you say pricewise it'd be a straight swap, are you accounting for taxes and fees in your area? That would come out of pocket. Not a problem though. Ok Comboomer posted:Are you planning to lift/build out the Yes - I would plan to (over time) do some mods. Wheels/Tires/Suspension. Probably not for another year. arbybaconator fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Feb 3, 2022 |
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Feb 3, 2022 19:47
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arbybaconator posted:That would come out of pocket. Not a problem though. I mean, under all the bullshit it’s still a Prado. If you’re good with the internal space then it sounds like it’ll be plenty adequate for your off-road needs Certainly a lot plushier and more comfortable than a 4Runner, though you won’t get chuds waving at you in a GX
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Feb 3, 2022 19:50
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The Lexus is ugly IMO :P
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Feb 3, 2022 21:02
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all my exes drive in lexus
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Feb 3, 2022 21:05
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The Lexus GX is a Land Cruiser Prado and for that reason it will outlast anything else. That appeals to me on a deep level so I'd easily switch if you can afford the V8 fuel costs. More and more people are finding out that GXs are Land Cruisers which is why it's getting more difficult to find an old person one rather than one that's lifted with a giant bumper and a 6 inch lift and whatever else they slap on them, they all look the same to me.
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Feb 3, 2022 22:35
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Deteriorata posted:1) I seriously doubt it. Gotcha. Wanted to make sure about that. They had a reman'd engine installed not too long ago --3yr, unlimited miles against manufacturer defect-- and the company is one of those types that if you mention a part that wasn't included with the engine, they'll tell you it's not their problem. It took the kind of planning that one usually has to use when dealing with a literal-interpretation sort of rear end in a top hat genie, but we got the claim started.
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Feb 3, 2022 22:53
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wesleywillis posted:Goon mentioned power steering 'motor' probably has electric assist power steering. My Corolla from 09 has it. Other than that I can't really assist. The Haynes manual only mentions hydraulic power steering for my 09 Matrix and I was tearing my hair out trying to find the drat thing and that is how I learned that newer vehicles have electric assist power steering.
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Feb 4, 2022 19:18
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Is there any reason that decent quality booster cables can't be used for regular battery cables? They're about 4 gauge iirc.
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Feb 4, 2022 22:56
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wesleywillis posted:Is there any reason that decent quality booster cables can't be used for regular battery cables? They're about 4 gauge iirc. You mean like take the ends off the boosters? I think it's just a lot smaller gauge than most automotive main power lines to the loom. It's also really cheap to get power cable in a spool from Lordco/NAPA/etc, I did this awhile ago on another car to replace all the ground cables.
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Feb 4, 2022 23:27
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VelociBacon posted:You mean like take the ends off the boosters? I think it's just a lot smaller gauge than most automotive main power lines to the loom. It's also really cheap to get power cable in a spool from Lordco/NAPA/etc, I did this awhile ago on another car to replace all the ground cables. Yeah cut the ends off and crimp some poo poo on them. Napa is closed and I need the poo poo tomorrow morning. It's not a car, small diesel engine on piece of drilling equipment.
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Feb 5, 2022 01:08
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wesleywillis posted:Yeah cut the ends off and crimp some poo poo on them. I would say totally fine as a temporary thing just keep an eye on it and see if the cables start to feel warm, and obviously be careful that nobody would be injured if the power unexpectedly stops while they're operating whatever equipment.
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Feb 5, 2022 01:31
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I think 4awg is fairly typical and appropriate. That's what my xc90 uses. If you were going to cold crank continuously it might be a little small but that doesn't happen. Disclaimer: figure out what your car is spec'd with and use that or larger Edit: saw that it is not actually a car. Check out a wire ampacity chart for guidance if you can't find anything from the manufacturer https://www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/ taqueso fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Feb 5, 2022 |
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Feb 5, 2022 01:41
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I wouldn't be worried about ampacity. 4 sounds like it's fine. I'd be worried about durability/suitability long term. For most jumper cables who knows what they are jacketed in. It's not marked. Maybe it doesn't last in heat/UV/whatever? But it's gonna work for tomorrow. And well into next month while you figure that out/source appropriate cable.
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Feb 5, 2022 02:10
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Ja, I'd be concerned about the insulation on it. Jumper cables are meant to be looped up for storage, so they use a more supple jacket for flexibility & because it doesn't have to endure charging loads for long. There's a reason that a replacement battery cable is stiff & unwieldy
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Feb 5, 2022 |
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Feb 5, 2022 02:45
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I won't lie, it'll probably be on there for a couple months*** before I get around to putting something proper on it. I actually had the right sized (gauge wise) fittings for the ends. I didn't have a proper crimping tool, but a vise seemed to work. E: *** assuming this doesn't cause it to burn down. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Feb 5, 2022 |
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Feb 5, 2022 03:14
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wesleywillis posted:I won't lie, it'll probably be on there for a couple months*** before I get around to putting something proper on it. I actually had the right sized (gauge wise) fittings for the ends. I didn't have a proper crimping tool, but a vise seemed to work. You can probably get an extra few months out of throwing some split loom over it after it's been installed 
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Feb 5, 2022 03:20
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