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Solar Coaster
Sep 2, 2009

Tenchrono posted:

I might have bought something today 😬


86 FJ60. Pretty sweet. Just rolled over 320k miles, had a complete engine rebuild a bit ago so it should be good for another 300k. Theres some small rust on the panels but none on the frame, might just have the whole thing sandblasted and repainted / sealed. Think I need to pick up the H55F to drop in because it was screaming at 65mph. Probably going to get a small 2.5” lift and some rockers / plates for protection, already came with arb front and rear lockers.

Love these! A friend of mine had an 89 FJ62 and it was amazing. Kicking myself on not buying it, but I couldn't afford it at the time.

Enjoy!

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savesthedayrocks
Mar 18, 2004
Apparently the H55 is perfect for the 3F. I have a 91 and you can do the swap too so I’ve been debating that or a LS swap.

Nice find!

Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


savesthedayrocks posted:

Apparently the H55 is perfect for the 3F. I have a 91 and you can do the swap too so I’ve been debating that or a LS swap.

Nice find!

Apparently for the 86 with the 2F its a straight bolt in with no other mods needed. Need to look into it more and find a reputable shop near denver.

highme
May 25, 2001


I posted my food for USPOL Thanksgiving!


At almost 400k the suspension on my 4Runner is getting a bit squishy. Thinking about a long travel update instead of a lift or anything. Looking around there are plenty of places that have something for the 3rd gen 4Runner. Ironman 4x4 just opened a retail spot between my house and my buddy’s shop, so that’s likely my first choice, but I’m open to other suggestions especially along the lines of “these guys are chuds, avoid” type of suggestions.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Picked up some new old stock for a very low price. Its the uniball though, not the newer delta joint, but for the price I have no complaints. Anyone have experience maintaining these? I'm going to pick up the top dust caps. I've seen people on various forums suggest a bottom dust boot would be useful but doesn't exist. I've also seen other uniball manufacturers suggest a PTFE dry lube, while Icon suggests no lube at all for the ball joint.

savesthedayrocks
Mar 18, 2004

Tenchrono posted:

Apparently for the 86 with the 2F its a straight bolt in with no other mods needed. Need to look into it more and find a reputable shop near denver.

Denver apparently is a Mecca, lots of shops in Boulder. Cruiser Outfitters in Murray, UT has been posting a TON of swaps lately.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

highme posted:

At almost 400k the suspension on my 4Runner is getting a bit squishy. Thinking about a long travel update instead of a lift or anything. Looking around there are plenty of places that have something for the 3rd gen 4Runner. Ironman 4x4 just opened a retail spot between my house and my buddy’s shop, so that’s likely my first choice, but I’m open to other suggestions especially along the lines of “these guys are chuds, avoid” type of suggestions.

Well I can tell you he posts dumb anti mask bullshit and whines about protesters "rioting and looting" on his personal Facebook, so, well, yeah, I'm reasonably certain he's either fash or wrong end of right wing libertarian. That's probably 80% of the off-road world, I wish you luck finding a vendor who isn't a chud. About the best I can say is that the guys at Azzy Design Works and Boostwerks Enterprises are somewhere far away from the chud end of libertarian and all their comments I've seen anywhere tend to indicate they listen to facts. They don't really do suspension parts though as far as I know. I buy from them whenever I get a chance.

This is one of many reasons I've been more and more intent on building as much of my stuff as I can. I can't entirely boycott chuds in the offroad world but I sure as gently caress will choose a supplier who isn't vocally dumb when possible, and for the rest I just do as much of the fabrication myself as possible and order my materials from the least vocally fashy supplier I can.

Related: JCR off-road is called that because the JCR stands for Jesus Christ Rocks, that and their "crusader" series branding and plasma cutting crusader shields and crosses into most of their products resulted in them losing my business years ago. They seem to have removed the cross and swapped to "JCR" but nah, not coming back.

The list goes on.

kastein fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jan 20, 2022

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

highme posted:

At almost 400k the suspension on my 4Runner is getting a bit squishy. Thinking about a long travel update instead of a lift or anything. Looking around there are plenty of places that have something for the 3rd gen 4Runner. Ironman 4x4 just opened a retail spot between my house and my buddy’s shop, so that’s likely my first choice, but I’m open to other suggestions especially along the lines of “these guys are chuds, avoid” type of suggestions.

Plugging my buddy's business again-

FogHelmut posted:

My buddy is a part owner in this company and he's not an authoritarian or a hater - https://explore-overland.com/

highme
May 25, 2001


I posted my food for USPOL Thanksgiving!


FogHelmut posted:

Plugging my buddy's business again-

Bookmarked, will hit him up.

highme
May 25, 2001


I posted my food for USPOL Thanksgiving!


Here’s a fun hypothetical. My wife asked yesterday if we could “liquidate inventory* to finance an RV big enough for us and dogs+ and just loving bounce?” I said, “Well of loving course!” but didn’t really get too deep into specifics of what living in an RV with her and our big rear end dogs meant. So let’s gently caress around a bit and pretend this might actually happen.

Assuming a budget of ~$200k cash to make purchases outright/set up maintenance, what would you do for a “Living space X Fun/Useful 2nd vehicle”? A functional WFH space is also required, and all work needs to be done via VPN with good connection.

I’m of two minds with my approach:
1) Buy a Class A and flat tow something fun as poo poo, preferably Toyota, behind that. I’m not sure what that could be, and am definitely open to other options. From my day of looking while at work, the Forest River FR3 RVs would be my preference here. I don’t know specifics on what, if any, Toyotas can be flat towed. If I could get a Hilux or RHD Landcruiser it would be great. If not a well built Jeep Gladiator is my first choice.

2a) 2023 Tundra/Sequoia TRD Pro and some kind of rugged travel trailer like a NoBoundaries or Black Series bigger trailers. Leaning towards the Tundra with a dedicated overland build.

2b) Same 2023 Toyota tow vehicle with a travel trailer that’s more about comfort than “hold my beer” as well as one of the smaller “hold my beer” trailers and maybe another tow vehicle. Preferably turbo diesel, 4x4 and a JDM import.

We’ll have to spend ~80% of the time near a Verizon signal so I can work until i can figure out how to do my job from Mexico via satellite over vpn with no performance drop.


*She’s an eBay seller who has filled our garage with poo poo and she also has a large collection of classic John Deere tractors her dad as willed to her that need new homes.

** I’m purposely ignoring Sprinter type vehicles.

Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


Finally got possession of the cruiser after a week or so trying to get shipping and logistics handled. :toot: She drives like an absolute dream (from 1986). I think first first thing I need to do is get new rotors and pads, along with flushing any and all fluids since I think it was sitting for a bit. Dogs love all the room in the back as well.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

highme posted:

Here’s a fun hypothetical. My wife asked yesterday if we could “liquidate inventory* to finance an RV big enough for us and dogs+ and just loving bounce?” I said, “Well of loving course!” but didn’t really get too deep into specifics of what living in an RV with her and our big rear end dogs meant. So let’s gently caress around a bit and pretend this might actually happen.

Assuming a budget of ~$200k cash to make purchases outright/set up maintenance, what would you do for a “Living space X Fun/Useful 2nd vehicle”? A functional WFH space is also required, and all work needs to be done via VPN with good connection.

I’m of two minds with my approach:
1) Buy a Class A and flat tow something fun as poo poo, preferably Toyota, behind that. I’m not sure what that could be, and am definitely open to other options. From my day of looking while at work, the Forest River FR3 RVs would be my preference here. I don’t know specifics on what, if any, Toyotas can be flat towed. If I could get a Hilux or RHD Landcruiser it would be great. If not a well built Jeep Gladiator is my first choice.

2a) 2023 Tundra/Sequoia TRD Pro and some kind of rugged travel trailer like a NoBoundaries or Black Series bigger trailers. Leaning towards the Tundra with a dedicated overland build.

2b) Same 2023 Toyota tow vehicle with a travel trailer that’s more about comfort than “hold my beer” as well as one of the smaller “hold my beer” trailers and maybe another tow vehicle. Preferably turbo diesel, 4x4 and a JDM import.

We’ll have to spend ~80% of the time near a Verizon signal so I can work until i can figure out how to do my job from Mexico via satellite over vpn with no performance drop.


*She’s an eBay seller who has filled our garage with poo poo and she also has a large collection of classic John Deere tractors her dad as willed to her that need new homes.

** I’m purposely ignoring Sprinter type vehicles.


What would I do?




If you're gonna work and live out of something. Get something with living space. Class-A or super-C all the way. A tundra/sequoia isn't going to be enough truck to tow something big enough to have long-term-breathing-room.
Sat will have some fun lag you'll need to address. Don't count on musknet for a few years or more for mobile installations. Best is to run redundant connections, say ATT and VZW. You'll usually be able to ding one or the other.
If you're doing this to save any money versus paying rent, its not that much cheaper, but the traveling part is hella fun. Financing generally doesn't work with fulltiming as these things are made out of pressed wet cardboard.

I've seen a couple people doing a minimalist as gently caress overlanding trailer + rtt with a 4x4 doing the full time + travel life. looked like it was a ton of fun for a minimal get the gently caress out there footprint.

ili
Jul 26, 2003


Tenchrono posted:

Finally got possession of the cruiser after a week or so trying to get shipping and logistics handled. :toot: She drives like an absolute dream (from 1986). I think first first thing I need to do is get new rotors and pads, along with flushing any and all fluids since I think it was sitting for a bit. Dogs love all the room in the back as well.


That looks like an absolute peach, well done mate.

arbybaconator
Dec 18, 2007

All hat and no cattle

I have a 2021 Lunar Rock 4Runner TRD Pro. Resale is pretty nuts right now, and I can drat near do a new 1:1 trade for a 2022 Lexus GX460 Blackline in Nori Green. My TRD is a very capable off-roader, but I like some of the creature comforts and safety features of the GX460.

I currently use the 4runner for errands and a few roadtrips/camping/light off-roading.

Would this be a bad decision?

Lexus GX460


My 4Runner


arbybaconator fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Feb 3, 2022

highme
May 25, 2001


I posted my food for USPOL Thanksgiving!


cursedshitbox posted:

What would I do?


I see a lot of wrenching in this pic and it scares me.


quote:

If you're gonna work and live out of something. Get something with living space. Class-A or super-C all the way. A tundra/sequoia isn't going to be enough truck to tow something big enough to have long-term-breathing-room.
Sat will have some fun lag you'll need to address. Don't count on musknet for a few years or more for mobile installations. Best is to run redundant connections, say ATT and VZW. You'll usually be able to ding one or the other.
If you're doing this to save any money versus paying rent, its not that much cheaper, but the traveling part is hella fun. Financing generally doesn't work with fulltiming as these things are made out of pressed wet cardboard.

I've seen a couple people doing a minimalist as gently caress overlanding trailer + rtt with a 4x4 doing the full time + travel life. looked like it was a ton of fun for a minimal get the gently caress out there footprint.

Depending on how we liquidate this tractor collection, I'm planning on paying cash for new or a near new RV. I agree with the if it's gonna be live/work you definitely should be in a Class A, but also not longer than 30' as that appears to be a limit for a lot of campgrounds. The Forest RIver FR3 RVs look perfect for this because instead of a rolling bunkhouse it's a rolling 1 bedroom apartment w/ a king sized bed. And that configuration seems a lot better for empty nesters w/ a pair of 80 lb dogs looking to add another maybe. As far as a data connection goes, redundancy in networks sounds like a good US solution, I'd only want satellite if we were heading south, and TBH, I don't think I'd be allowed to do my job outside of the US for security reasons. And as much as I'd love an actual overlander with a good overlanding trailer to just disappear with, that's not really my wife's ideal, she loves not camping.


Going w/ a TRD Pro Sequoia or Tundra gives me a bulletproof rig for the rest of life, but maybe not towing something big enough, that's unfortunate, part of my desire here is to buy things that I'm not gonna have to stress about anytime soon w/ proper maintenance. I suppose a big diesel would suffice, I'd just prefer to stick w/ Toyota at this point.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

arbybaconator posted:

I have a 2021 Lunar Rock 4Runner TRD Pro. Resale is pretty nuts right now, and I can drat near do a new 1:1 trade for a 2022 Lexus GX460 Blackline in Nori Green. My TRD is a very capable off-roader, but I like some of the creature comforts and safety features of the GX460.

I currently use the 4runner for errands and a few roadtrips/camping/light off-roading.

Would this be a bad decision?

Lexus GX460


My 4Runner


The TRD Pro is more capable off road stock (I believe the Pro comes with a rear locker, yes?), but the 460 will still be reasonably capable for light off-roading. The platforms are very similar, so if you upgrade the 460 a bit you can close the gap, but then that's even more money spent, and with the TRD you have the benefit of all those upgrades being covered under warranty (since they're stock). Approach angle on a stock height 460 also isn't that great IIRC due to that huge grill. The 4Runner also looks better for my tastes.

However, as you said, you only are doing light offroading, so maybe the better offroad capability isn't a big deal. Outside of that, the 460 is generally at least as capable or better for around town/roadtrips/camping/towing. The engine difference in particular is significant, as the 460's V8 makes more HP and significantly more torque while achieving similar MPG ratings as the TRD Pro (I'm guessing the MPGs are largely due to the TRD Pro coming with larger diameter tires stock...I believe they are about an inch larger). Plus the Lexus interior luxuries.

Personally I'd keep the TRD Pro, but the 460 does make more sense for many.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017

highme posted:

I see a lot of wrenching in this pic and it scares me.

Depending on how we liquidate this tractor collection, I'm planning on paying cash for new or a near new RV. I agree with the if it's gonna be live/work you definitely should be in a Class A, but also not longer than 30' as that appears to be a limit for a lot of campgrounds. The Forest RIver FR3 RVs look perfect for this because instead of a rolling bunkhouse it's a rolling 1 bedroom apartment w/ a king sized bed. And that configuration seems a lot better for empty nesters w/ a pair of 80 lb dogs looking to add another maybe. As far as a data connection goes, redundancy in networks sounds like a good US solution, I'd only want satellite if we were heading south, and TBH, I don't think I'd be allowed to do my job outside of the US for security reasons. And as much as I'd love an actual overlander with a good overlanding trailer to just disappear with, that's not really my wife's ideal, she loves not camping.


Going w/ a TRD Pro Sequoia or Tundra gives me a bulletproof rig for the rest of life, but maybe not towing something big enough, that's unfortunate, part of my desire here is to buy things that I'm not gonna have to stress about anytime soon w/ proper maintenance. I suppose a big diesel would suffice, I'd just prefer to stick w/ Toyota at this point.

I think you're headed in the right direction with this, but wanted to add that I wouldn't get a tundra if you want a fullsize truck, they just seem like a poor choice vs domestics. I just finished shopping trucks (ended up with a Tacoma) and the f150 was the best price/value of the fullsizes I looked at for light offroading/towing type stuff.

Mr Newsman
Nov 8, 2006
Did somebody say news?

I test drove a 2018 GX shortly after I got my 4Runner TRD ORP (2021).

The main difference for me was the V8 - super noticeable. I don't really complain about the 4Runner drivetrain but I know it's a pain point for a lot of folks.

That said I was happy I went with the 4Runner at the time and didn't spring an extra 15k for a GX. Definitely a lot of luxury perks (noise deadening, comfy suspension, etc.) but to me that was mostly just stuff that can break.

GX is pretty thirsty for premium fuel as well. I think I saw some people online mentioning they ran regular without issues but that might be a factor in your decision.

Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


In my area you can get a used Luxury trim GX or an off-road / trd 4runner for around the same price as well.

Paulie
Jan 18, 2008


I've got an older 460 (2011) and the luxury features make for a very comfortable ride, and the motor rips pretty well. I run regular in mine with absolutely no issues. I spring for premium in I flat tow my samurai or something like that.

The biggest pain in the rear end is if you have to street/parallel park and get poo poo into the back, since the rear door hinges on the passenger side. But I do enjoy not having to duck under a liftgate. I've not taken it offroad yet, but I assume it would be comparable to the 4runner, save for the lack of a rear locker, but the ATRAC appears to work well, from what I've seen.

Honestly you can't go wrong either way. If you tow at all, the GX would get the nod for the extra capability. Also green GXs rule (mine is the old peridot mica) and if I could easily black out all the chrome, I totally would.

Paulie fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Feb 4, 2022

Mr Newsman
Nov 8, 2006
Did somebody say news?
Man now I'm thinking maybe I should explore that.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

Paulie posted:

But I do enjoy not having to duck under a liftgate. I've not taken it offroad yet, but I assume it would be comparable to the 4runner, save for the lack of a rear locker, but the ATRAC appears to work well, from what I've seen.

I'm 6'1" and could walk under the lift gate on my sequoia, even before I lifted it and added bigger tires. Now I can jump under it.
I like a lift gate because it's a sun shade and a rain roof when I'm camping and trying to cook. I can park head to wind and have a nice protected area in the back of the car in inclement weather.

the ATRAC in my 2002 sequoia is the first generation of this system and it works pretty drat well, it's impressive. I can only imagine later versions of the system are amazing.

I use my sequoia for towing ~6k lbs on the regular. The non-vvti 4.7 is a little bit anemic, but it does pretty drat well overall. The newer tundras and sequoias have a ton more power, too. 20 years of development on the platform has come a long way...

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Dumb question that should probably go in the dumb question thread.

The Windshield washer fluid reservoir on my Tacoma has a..... "sleeve" extending from the opening and down in to the tank for an inch or two. It prevents me from filling the reservoir full of washer fluid.
What is the purpose of this? My only guess is that if someone is offroad and on something really steep,/sideways or whatever, it prevents fluid from leaking out of the lid if it was filled right to the top since you can't fill it right the gently caress up..
Is that the reason for it? Is it bad that I drilled a tiny hole in it so I can fill the thing up to the brim?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If that's the case that seems silly because my TJ's washer tank literally has a hole in the lid from the factory. I slapped some foil tape on it because I got tired of fluid dribbling out on inclines.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

IOwnCalculus posted:

If that's the case that seems silly because my TJ's washer tank literally has a hole in the lid from the factory. I slapped some foil tape on it because I got tired of fluid dribbling out on inclines.

I think mine does too, but thats just to vent isn't it?

GOD IS BED
Jun 17, 2010

ALL HAIL GOD MAMMON
:minnie:

College Slice

wesleywillis posted:

Dumb question that should probably go in the dumb question thread.

The Windshield washer fluid reservoir on my Tacoma has a..... "sleeve" extending from the opening and down in to the tank for an inch or two. It prevents me from filling the reservoir full of washer fluid.
What is the purpose of this? My only guess is that if someone is offroad and on something really steep,/sideways or whatever, it prevents fluid from leaking out of the lid if it was filled right to the top since you can't fill it right the gently caress up..
Is that the reason for it? Is it bad that I drilled a tiny hole in it so I can fill the thing up to the brim?

Is it a strainer/fill level? My wife's Corolla has this, you pull it up and can see how much fluid it has, and can add fluid more easily.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Not that I'm aware of. I haven't tried to pull the sleeve looking thing out, but there is no strainer/mesh thing in it.

Paulie
Jan 18, 2008


chrisgt posted:

I'm 6'1" and could walk under the lift gate on my sequoia, even before I lifted it and added bigger tires. Now I can jump under it.
I like a lift gate because it's a sun shade and a rain roof when I'm camping and trying to cook. I can park head to wind and have a nice protected area in the back of the car in inclement weather.


That's a good point about the liftgate in the rain or for shade. A plus for the side swinging door on the GX's when camping is you can have add a fold down table for a kitchen prep/serving station.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Just got the threaded barb fitting and the breather valve to extend the diff breather on my Tacoma. I see most people talk about using fuel line for the hose part.
Also a few mention putting a loop in the line between where it comes off the axle, and goes to the frame to allow for flex/movement etc.. I have no intentions of lifting this thing beyond what its current ride height is. Is there any reason to use a loop vs just making sure that there is "extra" between the frame and axle? How much should I leave aside from at least enough that it won't stretch the gently caress out or pull the hose off the fitting if I ever top out the suspension doing some mad sikk jumps to impress the ladies?

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Paulie posted:

That's a good point about the liftgate in the rain or for shade. A plus for the side swinging door on the GX's when camping is you can have add a fold down table for a kitchen prep/serving station.

Split rear hatch is the only true solution. You get a lift gate for rain or shade from the sun, and you get a drop down tailgate as a work bench/prep area (just replace the carpet with stainless steel) Best of both worlds and the true reason why the new landcruiser 300 is an abomination to all that is good in the world.


wesleywillis posted:

Just got the threaded barb fitting and the breather valve to extend the diff breather on my Tacoma. I see most people talk about using fuel line for the hose part.
Also a few mention putting a loop in the line between where it comes off the axle, and goes to the frame to allow for flex/movement etc.. I have no intentions of lifting this thing beyond what its current ride height is. Is there any reason to use a loop vs just making sure that there is "extra" between the frame and axle? How much should I leave aside from at least enough that it won't stretch the gently caress out or pull the hose off the fitting if I ever top out the suspension doing some mad sikk jumps to impress the ladies?

I work on the concept of running the breather line with the rear brake flexible drop line from the frame to the axle. I figure if you stretch a brake line to the point of breaking, you've got much, much bigger problems than water in your diff. I use the nylon air hose (you can get push fittings with the correct bspt threads for toyota diffs easily) and then run that as its pretty robust and wont rot out with oil exposure like rubber lines can, and then encase them in split loom where they're exposed to being blasted by rocks being thrown back.

giundy
Dec 10, 2005

wesleywillis posted:

Just got the threaded barb fitting and the breather valve to extend the diff breather on my Tacoma. I see most people talk about using fuel line for the hose part.

My local autoparts store only had fuel line in stock, likely why others use it.

From the factory on my Jeep it was zip tied on both ends, if you don’t leave more slack than the break lines it’s a guessing game which will go first.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
dumb question:
how do air lockers work?

THEY USE AIR STUPID!!!

I figured that, but what goes on when one locks, and how does it stay locked? How much air do you need for one? Are they typically something that needs a (small) tank to operate correctly? Could you (theoretically) use a bike pump or something dumb like that to lock a diff, or is it the sort of thing where you need a big burst of air at once, like how the bead on a tire is seated? Does air need to be continuously applied?

Same question, but an Electric locker.
Does the electricity need to be continuously applied?

giundy
Dec 10, 2005
I believe they do need continuous air and electric as a failsafe to unlock. That'd be a bad day stuck locked up front... I know when my lunchbox failed.


Spotted in the wild getting dirty at Redbird SRA! Every bit the soupy mess I expected for February. Not sure where the driver was when I took this.

Also found, a Ram 2500 digging itself out of a puddle after the 3" ice broke below, kinda visible in the background. He was winching at first but was just pulling ice along.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Things started getting really deep and inclined and slanted and I need new tires so I turned around not far after this.





Speaking of, what's a good AT tire? I want to keep it on the lightweight side because it's still my daily driver. I know various internet forums love Falken Wildpeak, while Tirerack loves the Cooper Discoverer.

FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Feb 28, 2022

Big K of Justice
Nov 27, 2005

Anyone seen my ball joints?

wesleywillis posted:

dumb question:
how do air lockers work?

THEY USE AIR STUPID!!!

I figured that, but what goes on when one locks, and how does it stay locked? How much air do you need for one? Are they typically something that needs a (small) tank to operate correctly? Could you (theoretically) use a bike pump or something dumb like that to lock a diff, or is it the sort of thing where you need a big burst of air at once, like how the bead on a tire is seated? Does air need to be continuously applied?

Same question, but an Electric locker.
Does the electricity need to be continuously applied?

Yes, but with air there's usually a hose system with some sort of manifold/valuing system + a pump of some sort. Basically it'll pump up to a certain PSI and hold that pressure in the line to keep the lockers locked then release it when it doesn't need it any more.

Basically you'll have:

Power => Control Module/Manifold system => Air compressor/pump
which will push air to the control module and shift it to wherever the air is needed...

The locker makes will have a small kit pump/switch kit to manage it.

Otherwise, the most common system sorta like that for 4x4's would be the Rancho air valve adjustable shock system, which has 2 small black boxes that attach to your battery, mine has a bluetooth remote, so no need for a relay/switch system, it's built into the control box which also has a small air pump built in. On my Hummer I got that system to adjust the valving on my shocks from soft to hard [0-9 on front/rear axle] and it's available for anything that can take Rancho valved shocks. I also got a CTIS system for my tires, but that's a bonkers system with a huge 100% duty cycle industrial pump that runs air into a switching manifold then runs a air line out to each hub/wheel.

With 2 "air" systems on my truck, and how leaky the CTIS system is, I didn't want air lockers on my truck, easier to just go +12v on/ no voltes off for lockers :)

I found with air systems, the less of it the better :)

Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Feb 28, 2022

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

FogHelmut posted:

Things started getting really deep and inclined and slanted and I need new tires so I turned around not far after this.





Speaking of, what's a good AT tire? I want to keep it on the lightweight side because it's still my daily driver. I know various internet forums love Falken Wildpeak, while Tirerack loves the Cooper Discoverer.

Are BFG All-Terrain T/A KO2s still the hotness? Or maybe they're too heavy for your application.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Safety Dance posted:

Are BFG All-Terrain T/A KO2s still the hotness? Or maybe they're too heavy for your application.

I think they're well liked, but iirc they're on the heavy side. I forget the official weights, I'll have to review.. I'm just trying to not kill my fuel efficiency any more than necessary.

SeXTcube
Jan 1, 2009

The one thing I’ve consistently seen mentioned about the KO2s is that they are far more slippery on wet pavement than expected. I have no personal experience with them.

I have C load 285/75R17 Wildpeaks on my daily 4Runner and they’ve been good all around through rock, dirt, light mud, and snow. Fuel economy on the 4Runner sucks stock and after the lift+tires I went from ~18 to 16 mpg.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Steve Jorbs posted:

The one thing I’ve consistently seen mentioned about the KO2s is that they are far more slippery on wet pavement than expected. I have no personal experience with them.


As a single anecdote, I was only able to make them slip on wet pavement once, in my TJ wrangler when I purposefully tried to drift. Your mileage may vary in a more powerful application.

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SeXTcube
Jan 1, 2009

I also looked up the weight on the Wildpeaks and they’re a few pounds heavier (65.5 vs 60.9 lbs) at that size than the KO2 so *shrug*. My driveway tire rotations are a pita.


Safety Dance posted:

As a single anecdote, I was only able to make them slip on wet pavement once, in my TJ wrangler when I purposefully tried to drift. Your mileage may vary in a more powerful application.
When I was deciding which tire to get I found huge amounts of conflicting anecdotes either way on every tire and little objective evidence or data. I just went with what I thought looked good.

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