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Nitrox posted:have you tried installing the first faucet without the bullshit check valve? Those things are usually solution to a problem nobody ever had. No, because from my reading online it seemed that they are needed for this faucet. I just preferred to get a faucet that didn't require it in the first place. Of course, without the check valve everything works, and I assume the first one would have worked as well.
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Jan 31, 2022 00:15
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SpartanIvy posted:This is crazy as hell. I have no real idea. My first thought was maybe something crawled in and died like a bird, and then a bunch of dirt and filth over years filled in the gaps around the corpse and leveled the blockage off. But you said you hit it with a snake and it didn't budge, so I doubt that's it. Since it's only four feet down, maybe you could use a threaded rod or something similar like a spear and try to pierce it as one last hurrah before doing sheetrock damage. If you can get a hole through it, you could maybe fish it out with some bent coat hanger on a pole or at least get a better grip on it with the snake to break it up. Yeah wtvr it is, it's solid, I also tried hitting it with the snake, camera, and some fiberglass rods I have for fishing wire, they are pretty flexible but still feels solid. Might as well give some threaded rod or pipe a go and see what happens. 
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Jan 31, 2022 00:42
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Rakeris posted:Yeah wtvr it is, it's solid, I also tried hitting it with the snake, camera, and some fiberglass rods I have for fishing wire, they are pretty flexible but still feels solid. Might as well give some threaded rod or pipe a go and see what happens. It might just be packed full of detritus, dead bird body, who knows what, and since a vent stack pipe typically doesn't see flushing action and just allows air transfer, it's just packed up enough to where it's fairly solid. Honestly the videos made me think there's a lot of organic matter in there.
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Jan 31, 2022 23:35
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No toilet? Wall space for towels? I've got a bigger bathroom and the towel placement is my biggest gripe. I see a minimum width of 33", it technically meets ADA width for wheelchair but is worth keeping in mind. Double sink vanity combo needed? I'd rather have some extra space, your room might feel cluttered.
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Feb 2, 2022 13:48
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Yooper posted:No toilet? That's what the bathtub is for! :leeds:
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Feb 2, 2022 20:07
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Toilet is in the room at the top of the pic. I didn't think about room for towels, tho maybe back of the door and on the wall across from the shower would be enough. Also I am leaning towards a single vanity with lots of counter space. I think you're right that would make more sense. The shower is the main thing that throws me off. Shape, size, shower head location, and door location are all up in the air for me.
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Feb 2, 2022 20:58
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I find myself without pex tools to borrow and a job to do where I want to use pex (new ice maker outlet box). Anyone care to tell me which team I want to be on here? I was using old school crimp rings before, but I think those are kinda out of style. Looks like pinch/oetinger clamp is the most common now but I also see some sorts of push on and push rings. I'm gonna be buying tools and supplies, so I'd like to make the right choice for future use. And I guess that partially dictates A/B/C as well. I'm looking at something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-6025...aps%2C97&sr=8-3 .....and I'll get it in whatever system I need to. This will be going to a 3/4" line in the crawl space which I intend to cut out the saddle valve and install a tee (I guess 3/4x3/4x1/2) and a shut off valve, then pex through the floor and wall to the outlet box. Edit: That's a new work box. If anyone knows of a decent old work box for this kind of thing that would be super helpful. I' just started looking around online so I don't know what's out there yet but if anyone has a favorite let me know please. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Feb 3, 2022 |
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Feb 3, 2022 23:25
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I spent some time trying to find an old work box for that (ended up deferring that project) and there were not a lot of great options. I remember thinking I'd probably settle with something by Sioux Chief where I'd just screw the new work into my wood paneling/plaster instead of it going under the wallcovering like it's supposed to, and just sort of "dealing with it" and the fact that it was behind an appliance that nobody would really see anyway.
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Feb 3, 2022 23:36
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I don't know if buying a tool set to crimp two rings is really worth it. Seem like a perfect application for a sharkbite fitting, and Easton has that exact box in push connect
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Feb 4, 2022 17:00
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Nitrox posted:I don't know if buying a tool set to crimp two rings is really worth it. Seem like a perfect application for a sharkbite fitting, and Easton has that exact box in push connect I don't use sharkbites, especially not in my own house. And I'm not buying tools for two rings, I'm buying tools because this is the type of reno/repair work I end up doing semi-regularly and want to have tools + materials ready to go.
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Feb 4, 2022 17:02
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And everyone knows, all tools exist outside the budget and their calories don't count.
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Feb 4, 2022 17:15
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Roger that. This will take care of most common sizes. I have a version of this tool with an indicator light, but that's not really necessary. I also suggest you use braided steel water line, not the plastic kind https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G7AE526/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_FBCVZDC7B9GRMD9NAV0C
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Feb 4, 2022 17:19
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Nitrox posted:Roger that. This will take care of most common sizes. I have a version of this tool with an indicator light, but that's not really necessary. I also suggest you use braided steel water line, not the plastic kind Yeah, pretty sure this is exactly why nobody uses crimp rings anymore. The set I was using was basically a 24" set of bolt cutters with a different head on them and good luck fitting them in tight spots. A cinch clamp install with something like that tool looks downright civilized and easy compared to that. Thanks.
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Feb 4, 2022 17:29
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I've always been team 'cinch clamp' (Oetiker clamps). I always use name-brand (Oetiker, SharkBite, etc.) clamps, brass fittings, and decent pipe. Never had a failure. I just trust the clamps more than the crimp rings. Those clamps are battle tested in other industries like automotive and carbonated beverages (where the conditions are far more demanding), they're foolproof (no go/nogo gauges to screw with), they can be removed easier than crimps if you need to, and the tool tends to fit annoying areas better. I like strong, mechanical connections that I can inspect. I don't like relying on the 'memory effect' of the tubing to hold my joints (Uponor), and those tools and PEX-A piping are expensive and harder to find. I will admit that the Uponor system is way easier and faster than crimp/clamp, but it matters less for DIY.
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Feb 4, 2022 18:35
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The only failures with the clamp system are due to installer rushing through the project and not ratcheting them all the way. They leak almost immediately and you can simply tighten them down. It's a good system
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Feb 5, 2022 05:42
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Agreed. I use the SS crimp clamps. They're pretty easy to maneuver, strong, and removable.
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Feb 5, 2022 15:41
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Thanks all. I've placed a $300 supply house order of babbys first crimp clamp pex kit, some 1/2" supplies and an ice maker box so I can replace what my PO left for me in the crawl space: Motronic posted:Why do I hear hissing behind my cabinets. Wait, that's coming from the crawlspace below them. Why it is wet all over the wall and floor?
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Feb 5, 2022 16:35
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Yikes. My ice maker also has a saddle valve, but it's right over where I put in a space to brew beer indoors, so I'm in the space pretty often. I should add that to the "things to replace" list.
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Feb 5, 2022 16:37
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I was insistent in my repipe to get a home run right to the fridge. Everything else was home run manifold and the guy really wanted to just tee-off the sink but I insisted. Even if it was a few bucks more, why bother getting a manifold if you don’t actually have everything running off it?
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Feb 5, 2022 23:46
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KKKLIP ART posted:I was insistent in my repipe to get a home run right to the fridge. Everything else was home run manifold and the guy really wanted to just tee-off the sink but I insisted. Even if it was a few bucks more, why bother getting a manifold if you don’t actually have everything running off it? Part of the benefit of home runs is the increased reliability of not having a bunch of adapters/tees/cuts/crimps in the lines. What a lazy poo poo.
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Feb 5, 2022 23:59
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Motronic posted:Part of the benefit of home runs is the increased reliability of not having a bunch of adapters/tees/cuts/crimps in the lines. What a lazy poo poo. The rest of the work was done well, pretty neatly but I just didn’t get a good vibe. I think he just didn’t feel like pulling another line of pex.
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Feb 6, 2022 00:13
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KKKLIP ART posted:The rest of the work was done well, pretty neatly but I just didn’t get a good vibe. I think he just didn’t feel like pulling another line of pex.
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Feb 6, 2022 01:02
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Slugworth posted:Nothing worse than a client asking for more billable hours. I can't speak for the goon in question, I'm sure they would be more than happy to pay the extra half hour or whatever of labour for it, but I can say from personal experience, that a lot of "clients" don't want to pay for the extra billable hour, they just want more work done in the same amount of time for the same amount of money that you quoted them for. Or less time. And less money.
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Feb 6, 2022 01:56
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wesleywillis posted:I can't speak for the goon in question, I'm sure they would be more than happy to pay the extra half hour or whatever of labour for it, but I can say from personal experience, that a lot of "clients" don't want to pay for the extra billable hour, they just want more work done in the same amount of time for the same amount of money that you quoted them for. For sure, but at the cost of the repipe that he quoted us was full manifold. So I had to make sure I got my full manifold. They did our cast iron repipe and were great, but the galvanized/supply repipe just left me wit a bad taste in my mouth. Switched plumbers for the other odds and ends and have had a better experience.
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Feb 6, 2022 02:51
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Was capping a copper pipe in my basement - went to turn the house supply back on and the eighty year old gate valve handle broke off in my hand. The cap is leaking because I did a poo poo job and I can’t turn the house supply back off because we cannot get a strong enough grip on the valve stem. Time for a Sunday call to the plumber 
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Feb 6, 2022 20:47
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csammis posted:Was capping a copper pipe in my basement - went to turn the house supply back on and the eighty year old gate valve handle broke off in my hand. The cap is leaking because I did a poo poo job and I can’t turn the house supply back off because we cannot get a strong enough grip on the valve stem. Time for a Sunday call to the plumber Get two, high-quality ball valves put in. One before and one after the meter. Then, only ever use the one after the meter, so you have a last-chance valve to shut off if that one needs to be replaced. It also makes meter changes super fast, assuming your water co does that every 15 years or so like they do around here.
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Feb 6, 2022 22:45
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Your water company lets you touch the pipe before the meter? Out here it's their responsibility right up to the meter itself, after that you're on your own. I admit that the one thing I don't like about how my house/neighborhood is set up is that my water meter is a solid 300'+ away from where the line actually comes up from underground and splits between the house and outdoor feeds... and most of that is on land that isn't mine.
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Feb 7, 2022 04:44
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Kinda depends on the local government. I had a nasty, crusty gate valve as my house shutoff in the basement. Called the municipal folks & told them that I had a leak and that they had to shut me off at the curb. They did it, I changed out the valve for a 3/4" ball, and called them back out after the 'leak' was fixed. I have since acquired a home-built curb wrench. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Feb 7, 2022 |
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Feb 7, 2022 05:00
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I literally don't have a shut off on my side of the meter, which is apparently standard around here. Just a little plastic box in my lawn with the meter and a shut off on the city side.
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Feb 7, 2022 13:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:Your water company lets you touch the pipe before the meter? Out here it's their responsibility right up to the meter itself, after that you're on your own. This is for a meter in the house (basement), but yeah, everything from the curb stop to the meter is my problem (maybe 150' at 6' depth.) I'm constantly reminded of that fact with shady waterline insurance companies that want my monthly payment.
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Feb 7, 2022 14:51
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Ah, then that's the difference. Out here the curb valve and meter are in the same box. Some municipalities are moving towards making them the same component, even. My mom had to shut her water off at the curb because she had to get the vacuum breaker replaced and had no shutoff upstream of it. The city was able to do it remotely.
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Feb 7, 2022 14:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ah, then that's the difference. Out here the curb valve and meter are in the same box. Let me guess, somewhere in the Southeast US or out West? I'm near Philly, and our frost line is generally considered to be 36", and most homes have basements where the water meter is located. The curb stop is usually at least 3' down, with a riser tube, that requires a long wrench to get to. I laugh when I see homes in warm areas with the main water line running right along the side of the house. I suppose one advantage to cold-weather areas is that nobody (most of the time) does dumb stuff like running pipes in the attic or in uninsulated areas, like what caused so much water damage in TX when they got an unexpected freeze.
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Feb 7, 2022 15:21
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Our property has the curb shutoff and meter in the same place as well. That’s all I’ve ever known as a homeowner (Kansas City) and so was really confused when I went back and saw B-Nasty’s post. $700 later and a lovely new quarter-turn ball valve is in. He fixed my crap cap job gratis. I had used a Sharkbite to cap the pipe in question because it’s going to be re-run in a couple months as part of a larger remodel so I figured why go to the trouble of buying solder supplies. Apparently my cheap pipe cutter skittered on the pipe while I was turning it and cut a groove that I didn’t notice. Out came the water 
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Feb 7, 2022 16:16
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B-Nasty posted:Let me guess, somewhere in the Southeast US or out West? Yup, Arizona. Everything out here is slab-on-grade construction so the vast majority of plumbing is run within the insulated space or within the slab itself. It's only exposed to the elements where it comes straight up out of the ground to the house's shutoff valve (and then straight into the wall) and the vacuum breaker (and then back underground). Still a risk in the once-every-few-years freezes we get here; at my old place, my next door neighbor had the pipe rupture right at the wall one particularly cold winter.
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Feb 7, 2022 16:25
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I was working on a house the other day with two sump pumps. One dedicated to the drain tile system, and the other one was described as a 'sewer basin' for when the city shuts the sewer main off in response to heavy rainfall. Ordinarily water would come back up the floor drains but the second sump pump activates and diverts the excess water up to a dedicated pipe. I know this is super vague but does anyone know what I'm talking about? The plumber who explained it to me didn't speak English very well and I can't find anything about it using his description
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Feb 9, 2022 14:30
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That sounds fairly explanatory to me. Combined Sewer system is performing inadequately and routinely backs up into people's houses under pressure. Other than filing an insurance claim for sewage water in a basement every year, this is their solution. I'm not sure where they pumping that water out too.
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Feb 9, 2022 14:42
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Nitrox posted:That sounds fairly explanatory to me. Combined Sewer system is performing inadequately and routinely backs up into people's houses under pressure. Other than filing an insurance claim for sewage water in a basement every year, this is their solution. I'm not sure where they pumping that water out too. He pointed to a pipe that went up into the ceiling and over towards the main stack, where it presumably would drain. It didn't get pumped out, but pumped up against gravity into this pipe. Only once that pipe fills up would water start coming out of the floor drains. He spoke as if this was a 'thing' that was well-known and routinely installed, he called it a 'basin' Does that make any sense? I'm a carpenter not a plumber so bear w me if I'm posting nonsense  was just wondering if there was a specific name for this setup, like with drain tile.
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Feb 9, 2022 16:28
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It sounds like a sewer ejection pump because you have some or all lines in your home that are mounted too low to gravity-feed. out to the municipal line. They are much larger than sump pumps, are set in the floor, and have a hefty manhole-style cover over them that seals the crock. You at the low end of the block? Also, if you don't have it, you should get a water backup endorsement on your policy. Without it, there's no coverage for municipal sewer failures that flood your basement with effluvia. Also no coverage for sump pump failures. However, if the sewer ejection pump in your home fails, it should be covered as a "plumbing escape," as if a pipe broke somewhere in the home.
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Feb 10, 2022 01:09
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PainterofCrap posted:It sounds like a sewer ejection pump because you have some or all lines in your home that are mounted too low to gravity-feed. out to the municipal line. They are much larger than sump pumps, are set in the floor, and have a hefty manhole-style cover over them that seals the crock. Yesss this sounds about right, great info and thank you for sharing. Its not my house, just one i was doing some work at and I was puzzled by the two sumps in opposite locations. Most homes dont even have one so i had to ask the plumber about it. I'll snap a couple pictures next time im there, although the drywall is up so not too much to see. Just wanted to know what to call it for next time 
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Feb 10, 2022 02:19
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Hey plumbing goons, why does my cold water turn warm for a second and then go back cold?
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Feb 10, 2022 05:31
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