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https://twitter.com/MieAC129/status/1490210759238123521
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Feb 6, 2022 19:58
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| # ? May 18, 2024 15:47 |
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i absolutely love that and i regret that it is already posted in the only place i know of where people would get the joke
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Feb 6, 2022 20:24
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Is there a combo 5v Boost/Lipo Charge board that doesn't have a 50mA low output cutoff or cost $15? I'm using an Arduino with a small LCD screen and to get it to stay on I had to use a load resistor and I'm using waaaay more power keeping the board on than what the Arduino + LCD even use. 100ohm wasn't enough so I ended up using 2 150ohm resistors in parallel which did the trick. I tried wiring the key to a pin, but unfortunately that means you have to trigger the pin first to even get the board to boot. So I would need to add a button for it in addition to my on off switch and I don't really want to shoehorn that into the case. The only one I'm finding is this, but at $16 it costs more than everything else in the project combined: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14411
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Feb 7, 2022 10:09
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I guess the solutions you've tried are meant for USB battery bank applications, hence the shutoff feature? I don't have a ton of experience with them but you could look for a DC UPS type product, there are several types on eBay/AliExpress that are meant for powering stuff continuously instead of acting as a charger. An additional nice feature there is they can charge the battery and power the output, instead of only doing one at a time like typical battery banks. I've had one of these (12 V variant) running for a few days without the actual battery installed (just using it as a boost converter for now): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003566571976.html As far as I can tell these are completely happy down to zero load.
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Feb 7, 2022 18:53
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longview posted:I guess the solutions you've tried are meant for USB battery bank applications, hence the shutoff feature? Yeah, in this case it's an 18650 powering a thermistor, Arduino, and LCD for reading temps up to about 300c. I was hoping to shrink the battery since with this it could literally run for days, but I might just pick one of those single 18650 boards up and use that. The board I have supports power passthough, but it's hilarious that the trigger delay from disconnecting the wallwart power is so long that whatever you have hooked up shuts down before the backup kicks in.
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Feb 7, 2022 19:19
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Sort of related to the DC UPS/backup mentioned here... Anyone know how common are chargers that can supply extra current for a load? IE that have the DC output for the battery, but a separate current sense or something so they can supply power to a load and still charge the battery properly. This always was an odd thing to me for solar chargers where it was really common to do Panels->Charger->Battery->Inverter->Load, but I guess that was before lithium chemistries where you would just float to a voltage and didn't need to monitor battery current so much. It seems like there's potential for all these lithium iron phosphate cells you can find online to make some custom UPSs or backups for 5v/12v or arbitrary voltages or even small inverters. But the charging side of these kinds of circuits is a big question mark.
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Feb 7, 2022 22:10
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I think it just works out because draining the battery simultaneously will keep the charger working at maximum.
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Feb 7, 2022 22:20
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Do I have any hope of finding a 2-axis joystick-esque switch with a package/footprint that's interchangeable with standard cherrymx-type keyboard switches? i'm finally getting around to assembling a macro pad-type keyboard for use with CAD design stuff, and I'm realizing that having that type of control would be great for switching views, but if I can't find one that's interchangeable with standard keyswitches I'd have to significantly redesign the housing to suit, and I'd like to avoid that if possible.
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Feb 7, 2022 22:48
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Do I have any hope of finding a 2-axis joystick-esque switch with a package/footprint that's interchangeable with standard cherrymx-type keyboard switches? i'm finally getting around to assembling a macro pad-type keyboard for use with CAD design stuff, and I'm realizing that having that type of control would be great for switching views, but if I can't find one that's interchangeable with standard keyswitches I'd have to significantly redesign the housing to suit, and I'd like to avoid that if possible. You can buy usb breakout boards with I/o on them for switches and axis-controlled interfaces, and when you wire up whatever and plug it in, it just shows up like a custom game controller which I think you can just bind to whatever. Might be worth a look if you can't find anything that fits into that footprint.
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Feb 7, 2022 22:56
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taqueso posted:I think it just works out because draining the battery simultaneously will keep the charger working at maximum. But let's say your load pulls between 1-2 amps and varies around. Your charger isn't going to know what's actually happening with the battery current or when to cut off absorption. In the solar world, looking at some of the main solar lithium iron battery chargers around, it looks like they charge bulk at current limit until it hits absorption voltage, and once it hits that, does a timed absorption instead of waiting for current to fall below a threshold (since there's no way to measure true battery current), and then transition to a fairly low 'float' voltage to presumably supply loads and keep from over-charging the battery. And of course these systems expect the battery to have a real BMS to protect it from over charging, anyway. So I imagine you could do a similar thing, based on knowledge of the battery capacity and after profiling the charge curve a couple times you could figure out how long to hold the absorption voltage before dropping down to a float voltage that is 'safe' for LiFePo chemistry. The sweet spot between the battery overcharging slowly when on indefinite float or going through constant discharge/charge cycles might vary from pack to pack.
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Feb 7, 2022 22:57
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Something like this? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Grayhill/04A-K01?qs=ls7QRyWmRk6VeZ5XNPG2Qg%3D%3D
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Feb 7, 2022 22:58
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VelociBacon posted:You can buy usb breakout boards with I/o on them for switches and axis-controlled interfaces, and when you wire up whatever and plug it in, it just shows up like a custom game controller which I think you can just bind to whatever. Might be worth a look if you can't find anything that fits into that footprint. That's basically what I'm doing- I thought the switch I'd specced out for a handwheel was a 4-axis joystick w everything I'd need for camera control, but it turns out it's just a rotary encoder that lacks the X/Y rocker functionality I wanted. whoops. i can redesign to mount the correct 4-axis switch, redesign to add a secondary X/Y rocker of my choosing, orrrrr squeeze those functions into the keyswitches I also furnished. Might be easier to find two rocker switches in that footprint and just use one for X, one for Y. but it'd be nice if there's a teeny little PSP-style slider joystick or, idk, miniscule trackball I can go with that will only tie up a single keyswitch slot. Cojawfee posted:Something like this? poo poo yeah, that's basically perfect. thanks much!
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Feb 7, 2022 23:02
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Ambrose Burnside posted:That's basically what I'm doing- I thought the switch I'd specced out for a handwheel was a 4-axis joystick w everything I'd need for camera control, but it turns out it's just a rotary encoder that lacks the X/Y rocker functionality I wanted. whoops. i can redesign to mount the correct 4-axis switch, redesign to add a secondary X/Y rocker of my choosing, orrrrr squeeze those functions into the keyswitches I also furnished. Take a look at 'funky switchs' as well.
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Feb 7, 2022 23:09
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Does anyone here have a solder fume or smoke extractor they would recommend? I see Hakko recommended for their soldering irons and they make one that looks like a 120mm fan with a carbon filter over it, but its twice as expensive than the other ones that look similar.
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Feb 8, 2022 23:24
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I have a cheap version of the carbon filter over a 120mm fan and it works fine, but you have to have it very close and it is a bit loud. I don't know that you can do much better without a big jump in price to get a remote fan box.
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Feb 8, 2022 23:30
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When I was doing a lot of soldering as an intern, we had a hole cut in the wall behind my desk with a fan mounted on the opposite side of the hole. On my side, there was a piece of dryer hose attached, so I could pull the hose right next to wherever I was working and suck fumes away. Worked well, but I was 17 so I didn't bother with it as often as I should have.
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Feb 8, 2022 23:44
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I was thinking of rigging up something with a blower and tubing but I cant help but go overkill and it will turn into one more project. I think I'll try and stick with the fan/carbon filter material and try to stick it to a base or arm.
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Feb 8, 2022 23:58
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SpeedFreek posted:I was thinking of rigging up something with a blower and tubing but I cant help but go overkill and it will turn into one more project. I think I'll try and stick with the fan/carbon filter material and try to stick it to a base or arm. They sell ones already put together that come with the arm and everything for like $50, I have one it's great 
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Feb 9, 2022 00:01
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I just have my windows open and a fan blowing at me. How much am I gonna regret that in 20 years?
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Feb 9, 2022 01:23
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Bondematt posted:I just have my windows open and a fan blowing at me. it"s nveer afffectedf me MUch
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Feb 9, 2022 01:29
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Assuming you're using a decent iron and soldering at a reasonable temperature, the fumes are going to be entirely from the burning rosin. Rosin fumes are irritating to the lungs, but they don't cause any real long-term effects. Maybe if you breathed them 8 hours a day for like a decade. It's just refined pine tar, after all. The big concern would be lead fumes. Lead doesn't* vaporize at the temperatures you get with an electric iron, so it's not an issue. If you're using a torch, though -- maybe doing plumbing work, say -- you can definitely get the lead hot enough to vaporize, and you definitely don't want to be breathing lead vapors. I would do torch soldering only in a place with very good ventilation, or while wearing a metal fume rated respirator. *yes I know about the maxwell-boltzmann distribution, thanks Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 01:39
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I just have a small fan that I point away from him and then that creates a draft that pulls the fumes away. But you really should have something that moves the air away from you because the fumes will go straight into your face otherwise.
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Feb 9, 2022 01:44
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Absolutely the issue is flux fumes and not the metals. Modern flux is not just pine resin, and there is a wide range of formulas. There do seem to be lung issues that happen to people that solder for many hours a week as a job, but it is not as endemic as a lot of other occupations. I personally don't think an extractor is strictly necessary as a hobbyist, especially if you chose halogen-free fluxes. It is pretty cheap to do and having one sure isn't going to hurt you, though.
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Feb 9, 2022 01:49
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Good to know! My fan gets to keep its place on the desk..For now.
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Feb 9, 2022 01:58
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My dad never used any kind of vent or fan because he learned this stuff before that was really a thing, so I never used one growing up either and have a healthy love for the smell of burning rosin that everyone else in my household says smells disgusting. I didn't even know people used fume extractors or fans until I got back into electronics as an adult and saw a bunch of different videos with people using them 
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Feb 9, 2022 04:50
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SpeedFreek posted:Does anyone here have a solder fume or smoke extractor they would recommend? I see Hakko recommended for their soldering irons and they make one that looks like a 120mm fan with a carbon filter over it, but its twice as expensive than the other ones that look similar. I have a Hakko FA-400 (pic below) and it's... OK I guess. It has to be pretty close to where the soldering is happening to suck up the smoke efficiently. In retrospect I would have preferred one of the models with the swivel arm so that I could position it more optimally. For small boards on a benchtop it does the job it said it would do. 
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Feb 9, 2022 05:14
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Shame Boy posted:My dad never used any kind of vent or fan because he learned this stuff before that was really a thing, so I never used one growing up either and have a healthy love for the smell of burning rosin that everyone else in my household says smells disgusting. I didn't even know people used fume extractors or fans until I got back into electronics as an adult and saw a bunch of different videos with people using them Yeah, I kind of like the smell of rosin smoke - smells like hardware hacking! Eventually I started doing SMT stuff where you're looking into some kind of magnifier directly over the board and the smoke is coming right up into your face and started wondering how many cigarettes per day equivalent I was inhaling. Also, no-clean or water wash fluxes have funky chemistries that may not be great on your lungs. Maybe they cause cancer, but only if you're in California? My work around for years was to have a small fan positioned 4-5 feet away, enough that it would move the air but not significantly cool the soldering iron or work piece.
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Feb 9, 2022 05:23
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PDP-1 posted:I have a Hakko FA-400 (pic below) and it's... OK I guess. It has to be pretty close to where the soldering is happening to suck up the smoke efficiently. In retrospect I would have preferred one of the models with the swivel arm so that I could position it more optimally. For small boards on a benchtop it does the job it said it would do. Man, is it really just a 200mm case fan with a carbon filter? Edit: 120mm apparently and AC. Looks like people replace it with a decent DC fan for higher airflow. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 05:58
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It is exactly that
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Feb 9, 2022 06:01
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I still say one of the cheapo ones on the arms, because you can position it over your work instead of to one side so you can catch the smoke as it rises. e: to be a bit more helpful, this is the one I have:  I'd link to it but the listing I bought mine from is gone
Shame Boy fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 07:09
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so is there a way for consumer PCs to input TOSLINK or other bit-correct streams? if you could repurpose TOSLINK as a data stream, you could do RTL-SDR and similar using almost complete electrical isolation, put a rpi or 12vo motherboard on a radio tier linear power supply like an astron, and maybe get a couple more DB of SNR. A 12vo ITX motherboard might even have an optical out (although it's fading fast). You could still do similar with a riser card and a SFP network card/fiber cable ofc, but optical audio output is a temptingly cheap output source that is pretty widely available. Not fast, but a 192k stream is still a decent chunk of spectrum.
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Feb 9, 2022 07:53
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Paul MaudDib posted:so is there a way for consumer PCs to input TOSLINK or other bit-correct streams? I bet you could do it with a CM6206-based USB box. That chip's a damned audio swiss army knife. I know StarTech makes one.
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Feb 9, 2022 14:54
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Does anybody have any experience using current sense transformers on household wiring? I assume the core just saturates and it's no big deal if I disconnect my sense resistor. (that's what this Vmax is in the datasheets, right?) I just can't shake my intuition to pretend it's an ideal transformer that will burn itself to cinders if I disconnect my resistor and hope somebody ITT can confirm that it really is OK if the wire to it breaks or something.
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Feb 9, 2022 15:38
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Stack Machine posted:Does anybody have any experience using current sense transformers on household wiring? I assume the core just saturates and it's no big deal if I disconnect my sense resistor. (that's what this Vmax is in the datasheets, right?) I just can't shake my intuition to pretend it's an ideal transformer that will burn itself to cinders if I disconnect my resistor and hope somebody ITT can confirm that it really is OK if the wire to it breaks or something. I've only seen the big CTs burn up from an open circuit, all the interposing CTs I've seen have had some kind basic protection so you dont see it try to complete its circuit by itself. You're going to be seeing 200A max I'm guessing so I wouldn't be super worried about it, you can always try and test one and see what it does. Shame Boy posted:They sell ones already put together that come with the arm and everything for like $50, I have one it's great I was thinking of the case fan with the carbon material style or throw together something overkill for solder but I could use for little welding problems so I dont have to do it outside in the cold.
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Feb 9, 2022 16:19
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SpeedFreek posted:I was thinking of the case fan with the carbon material style or throw together something overkill for solder but I could use for little welding problems so I dont have to do it outside in the cold. I mean the one I posted is just that, but on an arm. I mean it's an AC fan (like the other ones) but it's a standard fan size so you can swap it out for a DC one if you want.
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Feb 9, 2022 17:19
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SpeedFreek posted:you can always try and test one and see what it does. That's definitely the best plan and I've got a few on the way to play with. Was just making sure nobody had "tried that, it melted itself to slag" type stories first. I'll post photos if it arcs and smokes or something.
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Feb 9, 2022 18:54
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Paul MaudDib posted:so is there a way for consumer PCs to input TOSLINK or other bit-correct streams? Not sure I understand what you mean by repurposing here - aren't you basically suggesting outputting the I/Q data from the SDR at e.g. up to 192 kHz as PCM data and getting in to the computer for further processing via the sound system? Or are you thinking of encoding the data some other way that actually demands bit perfect transfers (e.g. packing multiple 8 bit SDR samples per 16/24 bit audio sample?) In that case it seems like you'd just need a sound card with TOSLINK inputs - several exist but they usually cost more since they (ideally) need to reclock the data to make it coherent to the sound card clock. The market is also narrowing a bit, but it's still around in random AliExpress products, as well as studio audio interfaces. Incidentally, the "cheat" many cards use is to just run the entire sound card off the recovered TOSLINK source clock, like some Behringer products such as the UMC1820 do. This means you lose all audio if the TOSLINK source is gone, until you manually change the clock source back to internal. This kind of solution might be preferable for bit perfect transfers, since the data isn't run through a sample rate converter filter (which would not guarantee bit perfect conversion due to the sample rate change). Something with ASIO drivers might be nice as well, since that typically bypasses the OS audio stack. You'd also need a return channel for controlling the tuning, but I guess Ethernet or Wi-Fi would work there. I assume you already know rtl_tcp is a thing.
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Feb 9, 2022 23:11
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Anyone know a source for cables with male USB-A on one end and female Mini-PV/DuPont housings on the other? I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPT2NMT previously, but the cable is really too short to be practical. I want the cables to be about 4' long. I don't mind making my own, I suppose, but trying to find a decent crimper that's not hundreds of dollars... ugh.
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Feb 10, 2022 00:02
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Pham Nuwen posted:Anyone know a source for cables with male USB-A on one end and female Mini-PV/DuPont housings on the other? I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPT2NMT previously, but the cable is really too short to be practical. I want the cables to be about 4' long. Look for 'USB breakout', put a 0.1" female header on it and use a regular cable with one of those?
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Feb 10, 2022 01:06
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| # ? May 18, 2024 15:47 |
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What's the best technique for soldering a bunch of components (say, the + and - of a bunch of pots) into a circuit? Do people cut several pieces of wires to fit between each component and solder two wires to the same tab? Or size one long wire stripping insulation off at the necessary intervals? Or some other technique I haven't thought of? The pots I bought don't have holes to feed wire through which in hindsight was a rookie mistake, it would have made it a lot easier. The topic is surprisingly hard to google so it could be I'm not using the right terms to look for it.
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Feb 10, 2022 04:19
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