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nwin posted:I think you guys might be on to 800 mA. That's very high. Something isn't powering down. You didn't have another fob nearby, did you? No underhood light, correct? What's the voltage at the terminals? It's possible something is acting wonky from low voltage. e: also VVVV what PBC said randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 14:42
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On some vehicles you may have to trick a hood sensor to think that the hood is closed in order to get the modules to power down.
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Feb 9, 2022 14:44
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nwin posted:I think you guys might be on to You seem to be on a 60 A scale, so 0.8 A is 0.8 A - or 800 mA.
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Feb 9, 2022 15:33
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Thanks. I went to advance auto and had them check everything including a load test. Alternator and battery both were fine, just the battery was undercharged- I think he said the battery is rated for 540 CCA but only putting out 350CCA currently.
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Feb 9, 2022 15:43
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If you really do have an 800mA draw that is something that really can't be ignored.
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Feb 9, 2022 16:11
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FWIW, a decade ago I bought an aftermarket stereo off of eBay and it caused a lot of parasitic draw until I realized it was defective and replaced it. I don't remember how much it drew, but it was enough to kill the battery over a few weeks of sitting while I was at school.
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Feb 9, 2022 17:18
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nwin posted:Thanks. I went to advance auto and had them check everything including a load test. Alternator and battery both were fine, just the battery was undercharged- I think he said the battery is rated for 540 CCA but only putting out 350CCA currently. 540 is a pretty small battery for any car. Also I'm guessing they didn't use a proper carbon pile load tester, just hooked up a little electronic thing, right? The carbon pile testers are essentially space heaters that hook up to the battery with some electronics, and the battery has to be fully charged before testing. The small electronic ones are garbage for actual testing.
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Feb 9, 2022 18:44
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STR posted:540 is a pretty small battery for any car. Yep, just something that looked like a really fat tablet.
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Feb 9, 2022 18:50
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Yup, agree with STR. False good is too easy with those. There is some value to them, as if it tests bad and you're having problems, then that is pretty much right. Kind of like a covid rapid test 
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Feb 9, 2022 18:53
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Charles posted:Yup, agree with STR. False good is too easy with those. There is some value to them, as if it tests bad and you're having problems, then that is pretty much right. Kind of like a covid rapid test Well this isn’t helping anything. What’s my other option here? Find a auto store which has the bigger tester?
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Feb 9, 2022 19:07
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nwin posted:Thanks. I went to advance auto and had them check everything including a load test. Alternator and battery both were fine, just the battery was undercharged- I think he said the battery is rated for 540 CCA but only putting out 350CCA currently. It doesn't matter how many amps the battery can put out when starting. In this case you have a constant drain that's killing it. Its starting current has been reduced because it's been heavily drained already, but that's not the fundamental problem here. A car battery's capacity is maybe 50 amp-hours. That means it can put out 50 amps for 1 hour, or 1 amp for 50 hours, or 2 amps for 25 hours, or any combination that multiplies to 50. (It's a bit more complex than that because the capacity will be lower than the nominal value if you draw very high currents, but as a general rule that's how it works). If you have an 800 milliamp draw, 0.8A, continuously when the car is off, that will give you about 62.5 hours from a full charge to a total discharge. A normal parasitic draw should be like less than 25mA, which would give you about 3 months before the battery is completely shot. There is probably nothing wrong with the battery itself. You gotta figure out what's sucking up the power.
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Feb 9, 2022 19:11
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So stupid question. If I'm going to pull fuses while seeing if the ammeter changes, would this be a good guess: If it's pulling 700 milliamps currently, should it only be fuses marked 7A and below that I should pull? Apparently I've got four fuse boxes in this thing and after a quick glance the fuses seem to range between 5A up to 40+A. Do I need to pull them all or could I limit it to a certain range of fuses?
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Feb 9, 2022 19:37
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7A is not 700 mA (0.7A) and if it was drawing enough to blow a fuse, then the fuse would be blown and there would be no more draw. The draw could also be coming from a combination of circuits, or even an unfused path (e.g. frayed, corroding battery cable), so even if you had fuses below 700mA it wouldn't necessarily tell you anything. You gotta take them all out one after another, sorry.
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Feb 9, 2022 19:49
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OK, so you know how automotive fuses have little contacts on top?  You can actually probe for voltage across those contacts. If current is flowing through that fuse, you'll see a voltage drop of a few mV across the fuse. If there's no current flowing, you should see exactly 0v across it. I'd start by probing all my fuses for voltage, and then pull the fuses where you see some drop. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 19:50
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More voltage drop means more current too, so you can prioritize the ones with the highest current.
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Feb 9, 2022 20:31
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Side note: the fuse resistance will depend on the fuse rating, and the resistance is what causes the voltage drop, so you cannot directly compare voltage drops from different size fuses to determine the most draw. That said, in this case, if one is near an amp draw and the others are close to nothing, the voltage drop should be quite a bit higher than the others.
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Feb 9, 2022 20:48
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nwin posted:Well this isn’t helping anything. What’s my other option here? Find a auto store which has the bigger tester? Sorry, didn't mean to be unhelpful. Yeah as others have pointed out, probing out the fuses to see what's causing the draw, as you'll end up with the same situation eventually with a new battery. Last place I used a carbon pile tester was a Car Quest, and it took about an hour. I don't actually know how common they are. Anybody know?
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Feb 9, 2022 20:59
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VelociBacon posted:Any code like this (to me) is an immediate "clear it and see if it comes back" situation. I suppose water up there could have shorted something in the sensor's loom but ehhhh. Just see if it comes back. Concur with clear and hope. FYI water intrusion (especially on NTK sensors, maybe Denso, probably not applicable to Bosch) will almost always show up as a heater circuit code due to the structure of the sensor. And while we're on the subject, the opposite problem of the filter being clogged will result in sensor stuck lean. It's also unlikely to cause a circuit high code as shorts will cause circuit low and corrosion of the element terminals will also cause the sensor to read low, not high.
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Feb 9, 2022 21:09
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Hmm started pulling fuses. When you guys say voltage do you mean change the ammeter To voltage? If so most fuses are showing between 0 and .2 or .3. I had one that showed .9 so I pulled it and noticed something interesting… Going back to DC and clamping the ammeter on the negative cable it showed 300 milliamps instead of 7-800 like previously. I then realized it was hooked upside down. Like I just twisted the clamp around 180 degrees. So…it’s a $40 meter from Amazon so I guess I’m not expecting crazy accuracy…even if I average them out, it’s still about 500 milliamps. Oh and the fuse that registered .9 had no effect…so I must be needing to find a higher figure than .9…
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Feb 9, 2022 21:24
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Charles posted:Sorry, didn't mean to be unhelpful. Yeah as others have pointed out, probing out the fuses to see what's causing the draw, as you'll end up with the same situation eventually with a new battery. Last place I used a carbon pile tester was a Car Quest, and it took about an hour. I don't actually know how common they are. Anybody know? They are in every store that sells batteries. The people there just don't want to use them because they take forever and require hauling the battery around. Nobody will warranty a battery based on a quick tester test. They have to have a carbon pile for that. One that prints receipts.
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Feb 9, 2022 21:44
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What's the best book to get for whatever vehicle you have if you want to start doing your own maintenance beyond just the simple fluid changes? I see Haynes a lot at local auto part stores, but are they actually useful/any good? Also what's with the dumbass designs that hide head/taillight bulbs behind panels that require a special tool to pull the clips that hold said panel in place (that love to break in the winter time if you pull them too hard)?
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Feb 9, 2022 22:01
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biracial bear for uncut posted:What's the best book to get for whatever vehicle you have if you want to start doing your own maintenance beyond just the simple fluid changes? haynes/chilton manuals are def better than nothing imo most powerful is FSM + yt vids. they can be weirdly expensive so i just... download them from a free legal source usually. FSM = factory service manual
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Feb 9, 2022 22:11
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biracial bear for uncut posted:What's the best book to get for whatever vehicle you have if you want to start doing your own maintenance beyond just the simple fluid changes? See if you can find a workshop manual for your car. A lot of times you can find the PDF shared by weirdo enthusiast communities on ancient phpbb forums. I think they're typically better than Haynes / Chilton manuals
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Feb 9, 2022 22:12
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nwin posted:Hmm started pulling fuses. When you guys say voltage do you mean change the ammeter Yes, on voltage mode for that. Something doesn't add up if you are seeing almost a full volt dropped in the fuse but no change in current reading when it is removed. The clamp on probes are not great, even the expensive ones when reading small currents. For a quality reading you really want to put the ammeter in line and avoid the clamp probe. Maybe just pull all the fuses until current drops to zero
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Feb 9, 2022 23:06
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taqueso posted:Side note: the fuse resistance will depend on the fuse rating, and the resistance is what causes the voltage drop, so you cannot directly compare voltage drops from different size fuses to determine the most draw. However there is a handy chart to make it easier! 
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Feb 9, 2022 23:52
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biracial bear for uncut posted:What's the best book to get for whatever vehicle you have if you want to start doing your own maintenance beyond just the simple fluid changes? +1 for Haynes/Chiltons, but this thread has been even more help to me for diagnosing. Fixing stuff is easier to me than diagnosing because I can spin wrenches competently but don't have a lot of experience working on cars. Users of this forum have tons more collective experience with just about every vehicle out there, it seems. In the last year, I've done brakes, front and rear suspension, intake manifold and throttle body gasket replacement, coils and plugs, and some other odds and ends with help from this thread. All stuff that was a little intimidating to get into but for some stupid reason I trust goons more than the general internet and it's turned out fine every time.
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Feb 9, 2022 23:59
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Safety Dance posted:See if you can find a workshop manual for your car. A lot of times you can find the PDF shared by weirdo enthusiast communities on ancient phpbb forums. I think they're typically better than Haynes / Chilton manuals +1. I’ve found the factory service manual, all 6000+ pages on some random internet site and saved a copy. Its very helpful
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Feb 10, 2022 00:23
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I drive a 2002 Escort in Michigan. So you know, rusty. The past week or so there was a sound in the back like something was bouncing around in my trunk when I make turns. There's a couple loose tools in the trunk so I didn't think much of it. Then this morning it started making a constant knocking sound in the back right side that matches speed with the tires. I'm worried it might be the CV joint based on some googling. I don't see any of this tell-tale oil I've read about under the car or on the wheels. When I push it side to side like I've also read about I don't hear anything coming from that spot either. Is there anything else I could look for?
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Feb 10, 2022 02:36
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Uhhhh what?
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Feb 10, 2022 03:08
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A 2002 escort is front wheel drive, has no rear CVs. If you’re certain it’s coming from the rear, and is speed dependent it is a wheel bearing or brake issue. Jack up the corner you think it’s coming from and spin it by hand. Grab it and try to wiggle it. That narrow it down. Based on your tools in the truck sound, it may also be a rear link rusted and broken off and wanging off a wheel weight.
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Feb 10, 2022 03:15
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wesleywillis posted:Uhhhh what? This is why I posted in the stupid questions thread.  Powershift posted:A 2002 escort is front wheel drive, has no rear CVs. Right on, okay. Powershift posted:If you’re certain it’s coming from the rear, and is speed dependent it is a wheel bearing or brake issue. Jack up the corner you think it’s coming from and spin it by hand. Grab it and try to wiggle it. That narrow it down. I'm almost 100% sure it's coming from that wheel, yeah. My brakes are behaving as expected. I'll give it a spin and a wiggle in the morning.
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Feb 10, 2022 04:00
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It just occurred to me that you likely have drum brakes on the rear. It’s possible there’s something loose inside the drum or the backing plate is rusted/bent On a front drive front heavy car the rear brakes don’t contribute much. If one wasn’t functional you would have to get pretty deep into the brakes to tell. That also means that brake drum may have been on there for 20 salty years which would mean it’s permanent. Also to be clear as I feel my post was poorly worded. With that corner lifted and the car stable grab the wheel on the sides and wiggle it side to side. Then grab top and bottom of the wheel and see if you can wiggle it up and down. If you’re just on the. Be extremely careful not to put your hands it feet anywhere they could be punched if the car desires to leave the Jack. You can also try moving slowly and gently applying the parking brake, which would apply only the rear brakes and see if the noise changes. Powershift fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 04:24
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Parasitic draw: this video is one of the best explanations of the whole process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRcj1fQcWwU Factory Service Manual options: You might also want to check with your local library, if they do any sort of electronic resources, they might have access to either Mitchell OnDemand or Chilton Library. My library is on-premise access to Mitchell but I can access Chilton Library from anywhere with my library card. The kicker, though - Chilton Library is not the same as the Chilton/Haynes manuals. On the vehicles I've checked, it's the actual factory service manuals. But even with that? I always check Youtube to see if someone has recorded the repair I'm doing. Seeing it is still better than reading about it. Sometimes there are procedures that a factory would never recommend but that have been proven by the aftermarket for a given repair (the "through the airbox" method of replacing blend doors in 99-04 Grand Cherokees, for example).
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Feb 10, 2022 05:10
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Does anyone have any experience building a cycle kart? Been looking into this Basically it's a go kart with a pretty high center of gravity, that uses 17" x 1.75 Honda Super Cub/moped wheels and a 200 cc motor to create a caracature of a 1920s open wheel grand prix race car, on a pretty traditional 1x3 .065 guage steel ladder frame. Very straightforward design no tubular spaceframe etc https://www.popsci.com/cyclekart-guide/ The big advantage I see here is that the form factor and additional ground clearance allows you to drive around in your back yard etc and you're not strictly limited to pavement, and since they're also not strictly off-road you don't end up with really ugly off-road full roll cage designs etc, and it's not so horrifically ugly your wife won't totally hate the project Looks like pre pandemic you could put one together for about $2000 give or take
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Feb 10, 2022 07:14
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Hadlock posted:Does anyone have any experience building a cycle kart? Been looking into this there was some discussion on these recently in the "awesome car poo poo" thread, seems like lots of people like the idea, but nobody here seems to have experience with them yet https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3502478&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1176
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Feb 10, 2022 07:42
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Charles posted:Sorry, didn't mean to be unhelpful. Yeah as others have pointed out, probing out the fuses to see what's causing the draw, as you'll end up with the same situation eventually with a new battery. Last place I used a carbon pile tester was a Car Quest, and it took about an hour. I don't actually know how common they are. Anybody know? You can just buy a carbon pile battery tester at Harbor Freight for $20. You will also need some way to charge a battery to near full before you can use the carbon tester. That is why the test takes an hour at the parts store. A good battery charger and a tester are good items to have around if you aren't buying a new car every three years.
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Feb 10, 2022 16:15
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DIdn't see anything on the first page specific to auto electronics/wiring (besides an audio thread) so figured I'd ask this here too. It's about my remote starter, which is currently uninstalled while I do a parasitic test. So it turns out I missed a part on the install sheet. Note that the remote start worked fine for the past 3-4 months I've had it installed. It shut off automatically after 15 minutes like it's supposed to, it shut off when I opened a door like it's supposed to. Everything was fine. Here's the part that I didn't do: https://imgur.com/a/wdNwgzK The Can low and Can High wires were NOT spliced into my factory harness. They were just left off to the side wrapped in electrical tape. What effect, if any, would this have? I reached out to the manufactuer (mypushcart) but have not received a response yet.
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Feb 10, 2022 16:43
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nwin posted:DIdn't see anything on the first page specific to auto electronics/wiring (besides an audio thread) so figured I'd ask this here too. It depends on the car and the way the remote start is installed. Older cars don't even have CANBUS. Even cars that do have CANBUS can often have fully functional remote start systems without patching into CANBUS. Some car/remote start unit combinations can do almost all of their work over CANBUS, reducing the number of wires and the amount of time needed to install the unit. In these cases, the installer may be able to skip dedicated wires to things like the brake pedal switch, the the lock and unlock wires, the parking lights, etc.
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Feb 10, 2022 17:19
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PBCrunch posted:It depends on the car and the way the remote start is installed. Older cars don't even have CANBUS. Even cars that do have CANBUS can often have fully functional remote start systems without patching into CANBUS. Some car/remote start unit combinations can do almost all of their work over CANBUS, reducing the number of wires and the amount of time needed to install the unit. In these cases, the installer may be able to skip dedicated wires to things like the brake pedal switch, the the lock and unlock wires, the parking lights, etc. That’s a bit more helpful than what the manufacturer said: quote:The CAN wires control and communicate certain functions from the vehicle to the remote start and from the remote start to the vehicle. These wires not being connected could be what is causing your issue. Please connect the CAN wires as shown in your tip sheet and perform the master reset and reprogram your module.
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Feb 10, 2022 17:58
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That's weird, the remote start on my car (came with the car at that trim level) only shuts off when: -I put the key in the ignition and turn the switch to "ON" -10 minutes pass (also it won't crank again within 60 seconds of the previous shutoff, if it's particularly cold and I want to get some more warm-up time in while I drink coffee before going to work I have to wait that 60 seconds before I can trigger the remote start again)
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Feb 10, 2022 19:47
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