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Deteriorata posted:If it's being covered with carpet, you probably don't need any. Otherwise, the go-to finish for mundane stuff is water-based polyurethane. Neat, looks like that'll work!
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Feb 10, 2022 04:07
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Leperflesh posted:I have good results from just spritzing a little mist onto an old sock and wiping the wood down. Not enough water to actually wet the wood (which will raise the grain unless you've already wet & sanded), just enough to help the cloth pick up dust. It doesn't seem to be any less effective than actual tack cloth from rockler, and you can rinse out the old sock and use it again. Woodworking: you can rinse out the old sock and use it again.
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Feb 10, 2022 04:40
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stranger danger posted:So I bought a wooden jointer plane ($12, couldn't pass it up) and the wedge that came with it has some hairline cracks in it. What kind of epoxy/filler/whatever should I use to fill the cracks and hopefully strenghten the wedge? Making a new wedge is probably above my skill level and seems like a major PITA besides. Nah dog, wedge is super easy to make. Especially if you have one to copy. Ten degree angle and snip the end of the fork tines a bit further up than you'd think.
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Feb 10, 2022 05:44
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stranger danger posted:So I bought a wooden jointer plane ($12, couldn't pass it up) and the wedge that came with it has some hairline cracks in it. What kind of epoxy/filler/whatever should I use to fill the cracks and hopefully strenghten the wedge? Making a new wedge is probably above my skill level and seems like a major PITA besides. Mederlock posted:Yeah I recently bought a wood jack plane where I had to pry the blade/chip breaker out with a pair of pliers and some smacks with a mallet. Is it safe to pare down the inside of the cheeks a little with a chisel or rasp to open it up just enough to allow for adjustments in our extremely dry winters here? Several things here. First: it's extremely common for wooden planes to have their wedges get mixed up and replaced with one from a different plane. Especially if you buy one from an antique store or flea market or basically anyone who isn't an experienced woodworker to begin with. Second, they're tapped in with a mallet and you're supposed to loosen them by tapping the end of the plane with a mallet. But third, they definitely can get stuck in there if they're left in place for years (or I've seen probably decades). There can be some extra fitment problems due to moisture but usually not severe, unless you're in a very high humidity area. I would certainly not wait for months to fiddle with the plane, just bring it indoors for a few days. Lastly: the previous owner may have been inexperienced (or a moron). It's common for people to gently caress up their planes trying to "fix" them because they didn't know how to properly adjust them in the first place. If you take some pics we can help. Paul Sellers on setting up a wooden plane: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2lvF8-nc_Q or for just a quick vid with the basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM2-8Xgj-5s
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Feb 10, 2022 06:17
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I really need to get a grinder, or something for removing lots of material from blades faster than 220 sandpaper on float glass. At least if I wanna keep buying planes from antique malls. My wooden jack plane iron needs a lot more work. Anyone use a WorkSharp? It seems pretty sweet, but it sorta feels like I must be missing the reason why it's actually useless.
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Feb 10, 2022 07:21
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The Worksharp is just spinning sandpaper, basically. The downsides mostly revolve around replacing the abrasive discs, and the issues that the constant sideways drag can present. The heat buildup is annoying, but entirely manageable with a bit of presence of mind. You could do a lot worse for the money, IMO. E: The thing with all power tools, from saws to grinders, is that it lets you do a specific job quickly and repeatably, including loving up. Ebay loves me for the amount of money I've dumped into replacing chisels and plane blades. Suntan Boy fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 08:03
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I dabble in woodturning so I needed a grinder for sharpening those tools, but I highly recommend the Rikon slow speed grinder paired with a CBN wheel. The grinder goes on sale a few times a year for $120 and the wheel is around $120 itself. Would go with a 180 grit as your first wheel, great for plane irons and chisels, and turning tools.
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Feb 10, 2022 13:12
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These brass inserts are great.
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Feb 10, 2022 16:45
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:These brass inserts are great. Holy crap yea I could have used those before. Nice spalting too
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Feb 10, 2022 17:07
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Thumposaurus posted:Woodworking: you can rinse out the old sock and use it again.
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Feb 10, 2022 18:27
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Leperflesh posted:Several things here. First: it's extremely common for wooden planes to have their wedges get mixed up and replaced with one from a different plane. Especially if you buy one from an antique store or flea market or basically anyone who isn't an experienced woodworker to begin with. Second, they're tapped in with a mallet and you're supposed to loosen them by tapping the end of the plane with a mallet. But third, they definitely can get stuck in there if they're left in place for years (or I've seen probably decades). For me at least, the wedge is in OK shape. Same color and hue as the rest of the plane so I'm pretty sure it's original. It fits so that the tines go down to about 3/4" above the mouth, which looks like enough for a good hold. My only worry is that there are some small cracks just inboard of the tines. Nothing moves when I compress the tines, though. The bigger problem is that the iron and cap iron don't slide in and out of the throat very easily. The iron *almost* gets down to the mouth now that I've had the plane indoors for a day, but the cap iron stops moving about 1/2" beneath the top surface of the plane, i.e. it barely goes anywhere. I guess the main issue is that I don't have experience with wooden planes, so I don't know how hard I can try to force things without breaking poo poo or how much I can sand/file off the iron and cap iron so that they fit now but won't be all loose when spring/summer roll around. Thanks for the videos, I'll watch them a bit more thoroughly when I get some time.
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Feb 10, 2022 19:37
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There's a very good chance your plane iron and cap iron do not belong to that plane. There should be enough room for it to extend like, at least a sixteenth out the mouth, and an eighth or more is common. There has to be room above the chip breaker for shavings to come out. Are you sure you've put the cap iron onto the blade the right way round? It should be on the flat side, not the bevel side.
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Feb 10, 2022 19:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I resisted the urge to make a joke about grabbing the wrong sticky old gym sock but it was right there in front of us the whole time. I was going to make a Roy Underhill joke about a bloody sock...maybe a few toes still in it, who knows?
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Feb 11, 2022 01:58
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Leperflesh posted:There's a very good chance your plane iron and cap iron do not belong to that plane. There should be enough room for it to extend like, at least a sixteenth out the mouth, and an eighth or more is common. There has to be room above the chip breaker for shavings to come out. I realize my post wasn't worded very clearly, but I was testing the iron and cap iron separately for fit to see which one is causing trouble. And it's both of them. I measured everything with dial calipers and I'm getting anywhere between 2.5" - 2.508" at the business ends of the irons and 2.492" - 2.5" at the plane mouth. So you're probably right that the irons don't quite match the plane. How much clearance do I want on either side of the irons? It looks like a bit less than an eighth per side in that Paul Sellers video, but it's hard to tell for sure. In another Wood by Wright video he mentions using files and floats to open the mouth, so it looks like that's where I'm headed next.
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Feb 11, 2022 05:03
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I had an inconvenient (2" thick with a number of splits in it) chunk of padauk I got for a project a couple years ago and never ended up using that's been taking up room in my wood storage so I decided to finally get it over with and make a little bench thing to hold some plants in front of my window. The design came straight from my rear end and I was slightly worried it might be unstable with three legs but it seems sturdy. There's some slight gaps in the little partial-circle things on the backs of the legs (no idea what they're actually called) but I don't think it's super noticeable unless you get down low. They're just off-cuts from the legs and stuff that I thought looked cool fit in there so some of the angles on them were slightly out  
Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Feb 11, 2022 |
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Feb 11, 2022 14:21
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Turns out there is a hardwood place near me, and while I don't know if their pricing is up to date or what they have, it looks like they have Elm and Pecan a hair cheaper than Poplar boards at the big box store. How are those two to work with? Also might have 4/4 Walnut, but makes it sound like that goes in and out of stock. One question on that though, is 4/4 nominal or actual thickness generally?
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Feb 11, 2022 14:49
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Wallet posted:I had an inconvenient (2" thick with a number of splits in it) chunk of padauk I got for a project a couple years ago and never ended up using that's been taking up room in my wood storage so I decided to finally get it over with and make a little bench thing to hold some plants in front of my window. The design came straight from my rear end and I was slightly worried it might be unstable with three legs but it seems sturdy. Interesting and cool design. Nicely done.
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Feb 11, 2022 14:53
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Bob Mundon posted:Turns out there is a hardwood place near me, and while I don't know if their pricing is up to date or what they have, it looks like they have Elm and Pecan a hair cheaper than Poplar boards at the big box store. How are those two to work with? Also might have 4/4 Walnut, but makes it sound like that goes in and out of stock. Ive always bought rough sawn that was actual thickness.
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Feb 11, 2022 15:07
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Bob Mundon posted:One question on that though, is 4/4 nominal or actual thickness generally? My local mill generally has everything at 4/4 and it's about the thickness it says on the tin, but that's rough sawn. In my (limited) experience that means that with some luck you could manage planing it cleanly to 15/16" or 7/8" but you're probably going to end up closer to 3/4". Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Feb 11, 2022 |
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Feb 11, 2022 15:34
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Bob Mundon posted:One question on that though, is 4/4 nominal or actual thickness generally? I think it depends on the place, and more specifically depends on whether the stock is rough cut or "S2S". The place I go to sells mostly S2S, but the faces are still rough enough that I need to do at least a small amount of milling. In that case, 4/4 means "at least 7/8"", and usually more like 15/16" which is typically good enough to get 3/4" out of unless I'm trying to mill long pieces. My understanding is that rough cut 4/4 means "anywhere between 1" and 1 1/4" at its thinnest point".
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Feb 11, 2022 16:27
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Wallet posted:I had an inconvenient (2" thick with a number of splits in it) chunk of padauk I got for a project a couple years ago and never ended up using that's been taking up room in my wood storage so I decided to finally get it over with and make a little bench thing to hold some plants in front of my window. The design came straight from my rear end and I was slightly worried it might be unstable with three legs but it seems sturdy. Helll yea that looks super cool I love the design.
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Feb 11, 2022 17:20
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Should I be applying finish to my wooden jigs? Would it help with the variable humidity of working in a garage? Paste Wax? Leftover poly? Leftover whatever minwax can I have sitting around?
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Feb 11, 2022 17:27
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stranger danger posted:I realize my post wasn't worded very clearly, but I was testing the iron and cap iron separately for fit to see which one is causing trouble. And it's both of them. I measured everything with dial calipers and I'm getting anywhere between 2.5" - 2.508" at the business ends of the irons and 2.492" - 2.5" at the plane mouth. So you're probably right that the irons don't quite match the plane. Yeah, a sixteenth will work, an eighth will also be ok. You can also grind down (or replace) the irons, if that would be easier.
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Feb 11, 2022 17:39
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Calidus posted:Should I be applying finish to my wooden jigs? Would it help with the variable humidity of working in a garage? Paste Wax? Leftover poly? Leftover whatever minwax can I have sitting around? If it's a jig I'm going to use repeatedly I usually slap whatever I have around on it (mostly water based poly, since that's mostly what I use). It should help some with variable humidity if you use something that coats/seals instead of just rubbing in a wax or whatever, the same way that something that coats/seals will slow down oxidation more than a wax will. Just keep in mind that the finish is going to change the friction of the surface so if you have something you want to have some grab don't put poly on it and polish it to a mirror sheen or whatever.
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Feb 11, 2022 18:00
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Wallet posted:I had an inconvenient (2" thick with a number of splits in it) chunk of padauk I got for a project a couple years ago and never ended up using that's been taking up room in my wood storage so I decided to finally get it over with and make a little bench thing to hold some plants in front of my window. The design came straight from my rear end and I was slightly worried it might be unstable with three legs but it seems sturdy. That's charming as hell. ~Designs straight from my rear end to yours~
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Feb 11, 2022 18:25
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's charming as hell. My rear end is ready. Anyone have any specific recommendations on guides/plans for making a tapering jig for a table saw? Every time I make a table/bench/whatever I end up with some wonky rear end scheme for the legs so they don't look like square slabs of wood.
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Feb 11, 2022 18:36
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Anyone ever buy plans from James Wright? I'm thinking about making something similar to his slab top desk, though probably with straight stretchers instead of the fancy bent laminations because I really don't feel like loving around that much. Is $12 worth it when I'm half buying for the sake of supporting someone whose videos I watch a lot? Are they good plans?
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Feb 11, 2022 19:48
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CommonShore posted:Anyone ever buy plans from James Wright? I'm thinking about making something similar to his slab top desk, though probably with straight stretchers instead of the fancy bent laminations because I really don't feel like loving around that much. Is $12 worth it when I'm half buying for the sake of supporting someone whose videos I watch a lot? Are they good plans? Just $12? That's only slightly more than the cost of a single banana, as far as I know.
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Feb 11, 2022 20:00
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I have 12 single bevel miter saw on one of those fold up stands. I would like a proper miter saw station. I can free up about 8 of wall easily. Is that enough space? I could get to 11 but I would loose my 3 extension on my work bench which isnt a huge deal since it most just accumulates crap.
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Feb 11, 2022 20:17
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Calidus posted:I have 12 single bevel miter saw on one of those fold up stands. I would like a proper miter saw station. I can free up about 8 of wall easily. Is that enough space? I could get to 11 but I would loose my 3 extension on my work bench which isnt a huge deal since it most just accumulates crap. 11' is probably better, since anything not going beyond the blade needs to be in front of it. If you want to cut 1' off the end of an 8' board, you'll need 7' sticking out on one side or the other. 11' isn't actually enough to cut less than a foot off an 8' board. Ideally, you want at least 1.5x the longest board you intend to cut for wall space, with the saw at 2/3 of the way down.
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Feb 11, 2022 20:37
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I don't have free wall space at all, so my miter saw sits on a bench in an inaccessible spot till I need it. When I need it, I move it forward so it's in line with my walking space, and then get out a support in front or behind to support the work. This sucks, but it works... and I'm honestly not cutting long boards often enough to need to dedicate a bunch of bench space to it. When I'm making a single cut I almost always use a hand saw. When I'm cutting five boards to length I'll get out the miter saw, especially if I need an actual mitered cut instead of a normal 90 degree cut. And I've never needed to use it more than once for five minutes in a given project, and each of my projects takes months, so that works out. What I'm getting at is, dedicate as much space as the tool deserves, based on how often and heavily you use it, compared to other functions you might be using the space for instead.
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Feb 11, 2022 20:45
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My miter saw is easily my least used tool. It works well enough but I don't reach for it building furniture. It finds more use for house work (like building a shed, where it now lives).
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Feb 12, 2022 02:10
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Finished up my scrap tool chest, 3 of the drawers are rejects from my pantry project.
Calidus fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Feb 12, 2022 |
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Feb 12, 2022 02:10
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Leperflesh posted:Yeah, a sixteenth will work, an eighth will also be ok. You can also grind down (or replace) the irons, if that would be easier. I'll shoot for 1/16 then, thanks!
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Feb 12, 2022 06:54
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Is there a straightforward way to consistently darken wood just a little bit? I'm planning out some wall mounted shelving, and I'm too cheap to use hardwood so I'm eyeing some decent pine that the local lumber yard carries. I don't care for the light color of pine or even what it looks like under clear finish. Is there something besides stain I can use to darken it? Maybe an oil I can put a clear finish over? I tried watco's "danish oil" and it might as well have been straight polyurethane, the oil part of it doesn't seem to do anything visually. I scoured Flexner's book already but it's (understandably) light on specific finish-wood interactions. On another topic, I used someone else's DW735 planer and was pretty impressed. I might have to get one of those if I can shoehorn it into my little shop.
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Feb 12, 2022 20:48
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There's a huge variety of wood stains out there. What's wrong with finding a fairly blonde one and trying it out?
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Feb 12, 2022 21:22
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Is there a straightforward way to consistently darken wood just a little bit? How much do you want to darken it? Polyurethane does have a slight darkening effect on pine.
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Feb 12, 2022 21:24
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Stultus Maximus posted:How much do you want to darken it? Polyurethane does have a slight darkening effect on pine. More than PU does on its own, but less than an undiluted stain. TooMuchAbstraction posted:There's a huge variety of wood stains out there. What's wrong with finding a fairly blonde one and trying it out? Exactly because there's a million options and combinations. I'm trying to find something simple that will create an old school darkened look without trying a dozen options first. My backup option is to heavily dilute some of the stains I'm already familiar with, but the quantity of pieces here would make this take forever. Especially considering how finicky pine is with stain prep.
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Feb 12, 2022 22:05
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:More than PU does on its own, but less than an undiluted stain. No one here really knows the effect you're looking for. I think you're just going to have to try a bunch of stuff until you find what you like.
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Feb 12, 2022 22:07
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My pine shelves have darkened by themselves a bit over the years, too. More than just what they looked like after a few coats of clear satin water-based poly, mind you. Just exposure to the air and light for a few years naturally darkens the wood a bit as it oxidizes (and yes, the oxygen can get in even with several coats of poly). We also did our floors with a "pecan" shade of stain before we added finish, and they're a bit darker than seasoned pine, it's a color I like too. You really can't tell until you get some little samplers and test on scrap. Photos online are dependent on your monitor's color reproduction plus the light and camera settings used for the photo, e.g. you just can't rely on them at all, you have to look at stuff in person.
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Feb 12, 2022 22:16
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