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Acid Reflux posted:I love transition rolls, mostly due to the discount, but also because sometimes you get a really neat print out of one. This was done with one of the cheapo brands, either GST3D or IIID Max, but it's one of the more pronounced color changes I've run into. Usually I jut get a color that eventually fades into a different shade of itself. Every time I make an order I throw a transition roll on there, but its ALWAYS black with no noticeable change anywhere. Like at least 4 times this has happened.
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Feb 12, 2022 02:56
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Commodore_64 posted:Every time I make an order I throw a transition roll on there, but its ALWAYS black with no noticeable change anywhere. Like at least 4 times this has happened. I'd almost like that better myself, because virtually everything I print gets filled / sanded / painted eventually, so the colors really don't matter in the end. I'm going to be a little sad to cover over that cool blue to clear fade.
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Feb 12, 2022 05:00
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This polycarbonate is a pain in the butt so far, keeps coming loose, and the printing advice I see for it seems to vary wildly. It especially varies in comparison to this Polylite PC spec sheet, going off the manufacturer's recommendations first and foremost. I may just give up on this stuff for a bit until I get my mk3s+, not that I think it will be far easier with that. Almost had a complete test print with a hotend temp of 260c, bed temp of 100c. Trying to bump up the bed temp a bit, only another 10c left to try 
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Feb 12, 2022 05:34
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sharkytm posted:The part moved on the bed. That's the only way I can think of to get a big sideways shift on one side and none on the other. It does look like the part detached and twisted on the bed since the layer shift isn't on one axis. Could try a brim for better adhesion
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Feb 12, 2022 08:27
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Crossposting from the miniatures printing threadAnarcho-Commissar posted:I wanted to try out M70 on my Saturn Pro, but I can't seem to get it to work. I've tried a few different settings, longer exposure, slower lift speed, but it's failed every time E: Fixed it with better supports. 3 Action Economist fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Feb 12, 2022 |
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Feb 12, 2022 13:09
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I printed a new x-carriage w/ way better cooling for my otherwise mostly stock i3 mega s, and it got me from a 1 hour hosed up sad benchy to this guy in 29 min printed to speedboat spec:  this filament was discounted and pretty wet and was spitting burned boogers a few days ago before some time in the dryer, it's much better now but it's a little stringy like that at any speed seemingly no matter what I do. Anyway, that's pretty cool. Now I've hit a point where higher acceleration values don't seem to do anything, either positive or negative, so I wonder if I haven't just reached the ceiling of my steppers, which aren't even getting hot to the touch. Is this something I can address by giving them more volts? I still need to open it up to wire the bltouch and was thinking about doing it at the same time. Also, it seems like I'm feeding my bushings a lot of tri-flow to keep them from making angry noises when they go fast. Would fancier bushings be a good upgrade to consider? e: I finally found the speed slider again, I'm printing faster now, is this just the next thing to tune? poverty goat fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Feb 12, 2022 |
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Feb 12, 2022 17:07
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poverty goat posted:I printed a new x-carriage w/ way better cooling for my otherwise mostly stock i3 mega s, and it got me from a 1 hour hosed up sad benchy to this guy in 29 min printed to speedboat spec: Yeah. Have you installed Klipper/other firmware where you've actually unlocked your acceleration? Don't know what the stock i3 accel is but with an ender3 it's locked at 500 at the firmware level no matter what you do in the slicer. I made some effortposts about Klipper/tuning here recently. Also, I remember you were printing weed grow stuff. I was planning to print some net cups and LST clips and crap today. Any recommendations? Standard net pots are a kinda bad design to print fast so I'm planning to do some experiments with no walls/sparse infills for roots to grow thru. I've done some of these and they're decent: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863601
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Feb 12, 2022 21:32
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poverty goat posted:Anyway, that's pretty cool. Now I've hit a point where higher acceleration values don't seem to do anything, either positive or negative, so I wonder if I haven't just reached the ceiling of my steppers, which aren't even getting hot to the touch. Is this something I can address by giving them more volts? I still need to open it up to wire the bltouch and was thinking about doing it at the same time. Also, it seems like I'm feeding my bushings a lot of tri-flow to keep them from making angry noises when they go fast. Would fancier bushings be a good upgrade to consider? So there's two places that speed limits are at. One, is "the slicer", and in the slicer you can chose how fast your print ~wants~ to go. Most printers also have ultimate limits in the firmware. Depending on where your firmware limits are, you may be running into those. The firmware limits ARE easily changed. My i3 clone let me set them with a dial on the display, but you can do it through gcode as well. if you have a serial connection to your printer. m503 will tell you your current settings. And other M5XX settings will let you adjust the limits. TriFlow is a very light oil, and probally isn't the right answer. Grease is usually the answer for recirculating ball bearings. Something EP2.
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Feb 12, 2022 22:18
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Zedri Edfly posted:Yeah. Have you installed Klipper/other firmware where you've actually unlocked your acceleration? Don't know what the stock i3 accel is but with an ender3 it's locked at 500 at the firmware level no matter what you do in the slicer. I made some effortposts about Klipper/tuning here recently. Yeah, I'm running klipper. The pressure advance tower suggested acceleration below 5k, but it was such a small gap that it was hard to read without changing colors and shining a light in the gap to see it at all. And I got good gains cranking it up as far as 9k or so before raising it farther seemed to stop doing anything- I tried it at 20k or something and it printed essentially the same boat a few seconds faster. So that's why I was thinking maybe the steppers could use more juice. But then I cranked the speed to 125% and shaved another 5 minutes off, and I'm on track for 20 minutes at 150%, so I'm not sure where that would come from if the steppers are maxed.
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Feb 12, 2022 22:23
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Nerobro posted:TriFlow is a very light oil, and probally isn't the right answer. Grease is usually the answer for recirculating ball bearings. Something EP2. I have linear bushings w/ no bearings in them I think e: at least I didn't think I saw bearings in there, but googling says maybe they are, I dunno. poverty goat fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Feb 12, 2022 |
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Feb 12, 2022 22:24
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I love 3d printing.  A tiny bit of filament, a 30 dollar lens and 30 dollars of metal spacers and I made one of these. https://spectraservices.com/product/10447436.html
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Feb 12, 2022 22:30
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poverty goat posted:Yeah, I'm running klipper. The pressure advance tower suggested acceleration below 5k, but it was such a small gap that it was hard to read without changing colors and shining a light in the gap to see it at all. And I got good gains cranking it up as far as 9k or so before raising it farther seemed to stop doing anything- I tried it at 20k or something and it printed essentially the same boat a few seconds faster. So that's why I was thinking maybe the steppers could use more juice. But then I cranked the speed to 125% and shaved another 5 minutes off, and I'm on track for 20 minutes at 150%, so I'm not sure where that would come from if the steppers are maxed. I've never gone beyond 5k so I'm not sure.. If you posted a video of it running maybe I'd have some ideas. Dunno what the max reasonable accel is for that machine. It doesn't sound like you're maxing your steppers; I'm guessing that Benchy is so small that the extra acceleration isn't doing that much good. Try printing some stuff with long straight lines and it'll be easier to see how speed/accel are working. Don't know about the bushings, but if it's mainly the noise that's bothering you, you might look into a better board (SKR 1.4 or whatever) and silent steppers.
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Feb 12, 2022 22:37
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Scarodactyl posted:I love 3d printing. loving nice
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Feb 12, 2022 23:11
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Zedri Edfly posted:I've never gone beyond 5k so I'm not sure.. If you posted a video of it running maybe I'd have some ideas. Dunno what the max reasonable accel is for that machine. It doesn't sound like you're maxing your steppers; I'm guessing that Benchy is so small that the extra acceleration isn't doing that much good. Try printing some stuff with long straight lines and it'll be easier to see how speed/accel are working. It's a noisy printer. That doesn't bother me at all but grinding bearing noise means that vibration and friction are happening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV02C8QbYRM lovely video, phone decided not to focus I guess. Anyway I'm just as far as I've gotten before into tuning it, I'm surprised I got so far, and I'm trying to understand where the ceiling is and what i can do to it
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Feb 13, 2022 00:08
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Scarodactyl posted:I love 3d printing. That's a lot of effort just to send some dick pics
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Feb 13, 2022 01:39
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poverty goat posted:It's a noisy printer. That doesn't bother me at all but grinding bearing noise means that vibration and friction are happening. Still hard to tell but it seems bout as fast as my similar ender 3 setup. I think perhaps the toolpaths seem a little less efficient than I'm used to. Switching to SuperSlicer with the profile I posted earlier and tweaking it helped in that respect. I was going down the exact same path as you a couple weeks ago. It's fun as heck to watch the hotend fly around but I'm coming more and more to the conclusion that it's usually better to print fat lines slower. Volumetric flow rate is ultimately where print time comes from. My default has been 0.8 nozzle at .32-.4 layer height x 125-150% width. I'm still printing at a little bit higher velocity than I was with stock settings, but it's pretty easy to hit max flow on my hotend (~15mm/s). Basically I just set my max flow rate, set perimeter to like 60ms/s or so, then set infill/support to 0 so the slicer will automatically adjust speed to hit max flow rate. I've been able to print pretty enough poo poo with good enough tolerances that I haven't needed to switch back to thin lines/fast speeds. Zedri Edfly fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Feb 13, 2022 |
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Feb 13, 2022 01:46
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canyoneer posted:That's a lot of effort just to send some dick pics 
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Feb 13, 2022 03:02
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Scarodactyl posted:I love 3d printing. What microscope head is that? Is it a stereo microscope?
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Feb 13, 2022 04:15
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What's the dumbest poo poo I could 3d print in 20hrs for a superbowl party
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Feb 13, 2022 04:21
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Commodore_64 posted:What microscope head is that? Is it a stereo microscope?
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Feb 13, 2022 04:27
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Flexi-penis, obviously. My linneo harness arrived early, and I guess it's time for final assembly. Can anyone link to a good video showing the proper way to crimp spade connectors and molex pins? I have the good crimpers, but I just can't get the pins to stay. I have the home Depot insulated spade connectors, but I did not like how my wire stripper just crushes them flat, so I went and got ones that have a proper ratcheting motion, but when I also apply the included heat shrink covering, it just does to poo poo. Maybe the crimper is good but the connectors are garbage? Maybe silicone wire is just to soft to push through the insulator and I just should heat shrink it after the fact? Either way, I don't trust my molex/just pins in the connectors I have, and hopefully I don't burn through so much of them I need to order a new pack, which is unobtainium most places
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Feb 13, 2022 04:31
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w00tmonger posted:What's the dumbest poo poo I could 3d print in 20hrs for a superbowl party https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5156288
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Feb 13, 2022 04:46
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Not gonna lie I saw this sculpture pop up a long time ago and was disappointed i could not get it as a novelty gift. smashing print on that so hard right now
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Feb 13, 2022 04:50
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Roundboy posted:Not gonna lie I saw this sculpture pop up a long time ago and was disappointed i could not get it as a novelty gift. smashing print on that so hard right now Thanks. It's my design in as far as I smashed some models together clumsily. Probably saw it on reddit, I put it there on cursedprints and the vanilla 3d printer sub. It looks best in a Grey or stone filament. I have since fixed a lot of the geometry and it's manifold now. Or manifold enough. Tree supports are good for this if you're using that sort of thing.
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Feb 13, 2022 05:00
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Droogie posted:Thanks. It's my design in as far as I smashed some models together clumsily. Probably saw it on reddit, I put it there on cursedprints and the vanilla 3d printer sub. It looks best in a Grey or stone filament. I have since fixed a lot of the geometry and it's manifold now. Or manifold enough. Tree supports are good for this if you're using that sort of thing. Nice! I dont see any need for supports, at leat my printer seems fine for the overhang of the ears? and arms ? I did notice that the outer shell on superslicer seemingly has a lot of gaps that will show the internal walls. But I am new to superslicer trying toswitch over. Comparing to cura now
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Feb 13, 2022 05:05
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Roundboy posted:Nice! I dont see any need for supports, at leat my printer seems fine for the overhang of the ears? and arms ? Ears primarily. Elbows too. They get a little droopy on my ender 3
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Feb 13, 2022 05:06
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Droogie posted:Ears primarily. Elbows too. They get a little droopy on my ender 3 Popped into cura as I need to reset superslicer entirely. at least i get tree supports there, and the gaps are top/bottom fill so it looks like some angled surfaces on the model
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Feb 13, 2022 05:12
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Roundboy posted:Popped into cura as I need to reset superslicer entirely. at least i get tree supports there, and the gaps are top/bottom fill so it looks like some angled surfaces on the model I am not good at thing. But I know for a fact it will print.
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Feb 13, 2022 05:14
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Droogie posted:I am not good at thing. Its fine, its a joke item anyway. The only effort I put into it is I actually switched from white to my matte grey filament. Should be done when i wake up tomorrow and spend way too long wiring things
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Feb 13, 2022 05:23
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w00tmonger posted:What's the dumbest poo poo I could 3d print in 20hrs for a superbowl party I'm printing this in rainbow colors https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/72028-superb-owl-dual-extrusion
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Feb 13, 2022 05:30
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Roundboy posted:Flexi-penis, obviously. https://youtu.be/p-IUzCu97S4 Use the ammo-belt pins. If they're individual, then RIP.
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Feb 13, 2022 08:03
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Got my LACK enclosure mostly put together: Hinges need re-alignment (or I need to sand some edges elsewhere) but it does close, don't really think I'll even need the magnets I have on order. Haven't sealed the edges up with silicone yet because I'm planning to partially dismantle it later, chop up the floor, and add some drawer slides to create a platform so I can pull the printer out if I need to. Will also relocate the PSU and motherboard underneath to keep them cooler, screen to the front, and a few other bells and whistles (Octoprint on a Pi, LED strip lights, temp and humidity sensor, etc). Took a surprising chunk of the day to get things put together, but feels satisfying. Did my first bit of plastic welding on the HEPA/charcoal filter (blue/green thing at the top) - realised I didn't have the longer bolts I needed to join everything together, but was able to just press-fit the fan, filters, etc, then weld the two big pieces together. On the downside, I tried a quick ABS print to test and was getting poor bed adhesion at 240C nozzle/88C bed. Should I go higher on the bed temp? It didn't feel particularly warm inside the enclosure when I opened the door, wondering if I should be heating it somehow. Also, whomever was chuckling at me worrying about 20% infill on parts I was printing for a LACK enclosure (because of the LACK's cardboard infill), I get it now:  
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Feb 13, 2022 12:26
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88C bed temp is probably too low, I'd use 100C for first layer and 105-110C for the rest of the layers. Let it sit at temperature for a little bit before starting a print, that'll get the enclosure temperature up a bit.
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Feb 13, 2022 12:40
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Zedri Edfly posted:I was going down the exact same path as you a couple weeks ago. It's fun as heck to watch the hotend fly around but I'm coming more and more to the conclusion that it's usually better to print fat lines slower. Volumetric flow rate is ultimately where print time comes from. My default has been 0.8 nozzle at .32-.4 layer height x 125-150% width. I'm still printing at a little bit higher velocity than I was with stock settings, but it's pretty easy to hit max flow on my hotend (~15mm/s). Basically I just set my max flow rate, set perimeter to like 60ms/s or so, then set infill/support to 0 so the slicer will automatically adjust speed to hit max flow rate. I've been able to print pretty enough poo poo with good enough tolerances that I haven't needed to switch back to thin lines/fast speeds. hell yeah I will give this a shot
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Feb 13, 2022 14:37
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I took the time to assure my gantry and such were square, and that my heated bed was fine. I did end up getting a new magnetic sheet and surface and I have to say, this smooth pei sheet from fytech is amazing. Hot fresh prints had to be hammered off, and cold just popped off as they should. So happy I dropped the $30 or so on a new sheet. I still have my old textured one but I am happier when the print is smooth top and bottom The clan of two print is nice, but I have issues where the tree supports touched the model, like cura didn't want to put a top or bottom layer where the tree supports attached. I did use default except I upped the branch width 1mm as I have had tree supports barely support themselves in the past. Time to dump all added on tweaks in my printer config and start over with another slicer. And tune for PA again.
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Feb 13, 2022 14:45
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Also, whomever was chuckling at me worrying about 20% infill on parts I was printing for a LACK enclosure (because of the LACK's cardboard infill), I get it now: Looks like a torsion box to me! Which has a lot of mechanical engineering theory behind it that I don't understand, but is an easy way to make something resist bending, reduce weight, and use less materials. It's not uncommon for mass produced furniture, like this conference room table being recycled in some youtube video.  Now that I think about it, Sandwich theory is probably the underling theory to why infill works in 3d printing.
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Feb 13, 2022 16:59
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Noodling around the idea of getting in to 3D printing with a resin printer, primarily because I'm getting back into Warhammer 40k in a fairly serious way now that I'm gonna be in one place for a few years. Looking at the Photon Mono SQ. I tend to play with a lot of larger models so the print zone being deeper than the rectangle that most models seem to be is catching my eye. I hear good things about it other places on the internet. What's the consensus here? Anyone have one personally?
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Feb 13, 2022 19:26
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bird food bathtub posted:Noodling around the idea of getting in to 3D printing with a resin printer, primarily because I'm getting back into Warhammer 40k in a fairly serious way now that I'm gonna be in one place for a few years. Looking at the Photon Mono SQ. I tend to play with a lot of larger models so the print zone being deeper than the rectangle that most models seem to be is catching my eye. I hear good things about it other places on the internet. What's the consensus here? Anyone have one personally?
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Feb 13, 2022 19:35
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Hey all, quick update: Got my Ender 3 v2 and put it together. The power came on which is cool but I already noticed I must have messed up somewhere. I couldn't even come close to leveling the bed, the up/down movement was slow and grindy, so I realize I must have tightened something too much/too little, so on. So I'm taking it back apart. The video posted by Paradoxish and recommended by D-Pad is a dream and I wish I had followed it before putting things together the first time. I'm just glad I caught these issues before trying to print something, wasting PLA and possibly scratching the bed which I am terrified of. At least everything moves and stuff! Just needs to be... perfect. So again, thanks for the help all. Will hopefully get to print something soon!
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Feb 13, 2022 20:39
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Also, whomever was chuckling at me worrying about 20% infill on parts I was printing for a LACK enclosure (because of the LACK's cardboard infill), I get it now: I work in the "ready to assemble" furniture industry and honeycomb filled panels are magical. Stronger than a particle board panel of same thickness for a fraction of the weight. Exceptional for table tops due to its strength in tension versus particle board which has next to none. Uses less material overall and most of it is recycled/recyclable. Its the weight savings that is a win for the manufacturers; they're pricier to produce than a particle board panel so you make up for it in shipping.
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Feb 13, 2022 20:40
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