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Hooked up the Motorola MA1 - wireless Android Auto adapter. Getting an occasional skip, need to look into that. Maybe because I buried it in the dash instead of near where my phone usually is.   2011-2015 Kia Optima auto dimming mirror with Homelink and compass - found out from Slickdeals a few weeks ago that Kia discontinued them and dropped the price down to $10-15 (depending on source). I ordered two (one from Kia.Parts, the other from Tasca), but only got one (from Tasca - Kia.Parts refunded the other). A lot of people on Slickdeals got greedy and tried to order several, none of those people got their orders from what I could see. Supposedly there were only ~300 of these available nationwide, and over 800 orders came in to just Tasca.  The car recoiled in horror at having Kia parts installed (even though it's the same Gentex mirror Ford used, with a different plug). Throwing P0132 (O2 B1S1 high voltage). Compared both upstream sensors in Torque, both are switching, though bank 1 looks like it may be a bit lazy. I ran it through a car wash with an undercarriage spray about 5 minutes before it popped this code, I'm hoping maybe the connector got some water in it.... wishful thinking probably. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Feb 6, 2022 |
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Feb 6, 2022 20:00
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Replaced drain valve on 7.3 fuel bowl, no more diesel leak. Replaced wastegate solenoid & hoses, no more boost leak and no code. Attempted to replace EBP tube but the adapter at the manifold was so crusty the flare nut tore the threads off the tube side of the adapter. At least it came out of the manifold I guess. Was going to rebuild the drivers side stub shaft in front on this beautiful 35 degree day but my inner knuckle vacuum seal got lost in the mail.
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Feb 6, 2022 23:07
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Last few weekends on the C10: Installed new front suspension with tubular control arms. New spindles, rotors, calipers. Spindles have a 2” drop Removed the after market front fender as it was bananad at one end so the door was catching a put a GM original one I had on. Aligned the fender and door, still needs to go to a body shop for the front frame horns to get them pulled back for the bumper and will get the door put on better while it is there. Carb was bogging when going WoT from anywhere in the range so adjusted the accelerator pump as it wasn’t opening at all which was why. Replaced the throttle cable as the stop on the old one had come off so it wasn’t opening all the way from the pedal. Replaced the sticking needle and seats as that wasn’t helping either. Put on the black steel wheels as the cragars don’t fit over the new control arms and drop spindles. Replaced the spark plugs, these were in so tight two broke getting them out. Fresh oil and filter, as soon as it started up after it smoked for a while because the old oil likely was cheap mineral oil which is as expected for whoever did the work on this. Enough knowledge to bodge stuff but no idea how to make anything not Roadkill levels of reliable. Now runs, drives, stops and will even not fall over and stall when you floor it. List of stuff to do: Get the badly made exhaust redone so it isn’t 3 inches below the frame. Fix remaining interior items that are missing. Front frame pulled back to be able to mount the bumper and align door correctly. Maybe get the replacement fender painted match New aftermarket heat/ac since the factory stuff is just blowing fuses even after replacing all the relays, switches and motor. Registered for Power Tour in June and this is the backup vehicle if the Pontiac isn’t running. Would rather take the comfy luxury boat but it has to be back together.
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Feb 6, 2022 23:18
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I did a silly thing and bought the ratty rear end '65 Dodge Dart GT I mentioned in the Stupid Questions thread a while back. Slipping gearbox, engine that hasn't run in 20 years and mouldy interior with broken front seats. Pretty cheap for what it is and in comparison to what classic US cars go for here, but nothing like the $500 stuff you can find in the US. "Barnfind" in the sense that dude that sold me it got it and another old US classic off an old guy who had the GT stored in his garage since '99 after the transmission started slipping. Needs re-registering, but seller has documents for it, so shouldn't be a problem. Here's a picture of the shitheap from when I looked at it:  Got it delivered earlier today, but haven't had time to look at it more than when I went to see it. Spent ages looking, feeling and tapping on the frame for signs of rust. Frame seems solid. The body has obvious rot on the rear right bottom corner, but otherwise nothing that I can find besides bondo around the rear wheelhouses (no surprise really). Obviously repainted in what appears to be matte black. Rims and tyres are new. Has most of the trim that isn't badges, and the trunk had what looks to be missing front and rear trim (and some extras). Some are damaged though, so I'll see what I can do about it. First priority is getting the majority of dirt off it, deep clean the interior and then take inventory of what's missing and make a plan for what to do. I'm thinking getting the engine running so I know it works decently and so I can confirm what the problem with the gearbox is. Also would be nice to be able to move it so I don't have to push it. Another obvious top priority is fixing at least the driver side seat as the foam is missing from the seat base. I'll probably work on this inbetween other things that needs doing, but I'm going to try to get it running, registered and inspected ASAP. All the cosmetic stuff etc can come after that.
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Feb 7, 2022 21:09
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PBCrunch posted:The cupholders in my pickup suck. They don't hold my Amazon Yetty (fake Yeti) cup and they block the HVAC controls when pulled out. They also do a bad job of holding my phone. So I started making a replacement unit. Why don't you just buy or build one of the little armrest/cupholder things that sits on the seat? Like these: https://www.cupholdersplus.com/bench-seat-consoles.html  fake edit: nvm - looks like yours works well enough! BigPaddy posted:New aftermarket heat/ac since the factory stuff is just blowing fuses even after replacing all the relays, switches and motor. That says to me you have a pinch wire or other short somewhere. MrOnBicycle posted:I did a silly thing and bought the ratty rear end '65 Dodge Dart GT I mentioned in the Stupid Questions thread a while back. Slipping gearbox, engine that hasn't run in 20 years and mouldy interior with broken front seats. Pretty cheap for what it is and in comparison to what classic US cars go for here, but nothing like the $500 stuff you can find in the US. "Barnfind" in the sense that dude that sold me it got it and another old US classic off an old guy who had the GT stored in his garage since '99 after the transmission started slipping. Needs re-registering, but seller has documents for it, so shouldn't be a problem. So, I don't know how much you know about old Chrysler products, but beware - that most likely has left hand threads on the lug nuts on the left side. Nice ride, though. Those year Chrysler products are pretty neat looking.
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Feb 7, 2022 21:51
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MrOnBicycle posted:I did a silly thing and bought the ratty rear end '65 Dodge Dart GT I mentioned in the Stupid Questions thread a while back. Slipping gearbox, engine that hasn't run in 20 years and mouldy interior with broken front seats. Pretty cheap for what it is and in comparison to what classic US cars go for here, but nothing like the $500 stuff you can find in the US. "Barnfind" in the sense that dude that sold me it got it and another old US classic off an old guy who had the GT stored in his garage since '99 after the transmission started slipping. Needs re-registering, but seller has documents for it, so shouldn't be a problem. Nice, welcome to the life of a V8 swede. Now let me tell you about "the Mopar tax". I have a 72 Plymouth and a 72 Chevy and the difference in prices for parts is sometimes bordering on the absurd. Does it still have a 273 in there?
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Feb 7, 2022 23:07
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MrOnBicycle posted:I did a silly thing and bought the ratty rear end '65 Dodge Dart GT I mentioned in the Stupid Questions thread a while back. Slipping gearbox, engine that hasn't run in 20 years and mouldy interior with broken front seats. Pretty cheap for what it is and in comparison to what classic US cars go for here, but nothing like the $500 stuff you can find in the US. "Barnfind" in the sense that dude that sold me it got it and another old US classic off an old guy who had the GT stored in his garage since '99 after the transmission started slipping. Needs re-registering, but seller has documents for it, so shouldn't be a problem. i dont think that would be a $500 car here, either. probably a couple grand, actually more now since covid blew up all prices i like the slotted mags. post more pics when you get into it!
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Feb 8, 2022 08:12
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Darchangel posted:
Thanks! Nidhg00670000 posted:Nice, welcome to the life of a V8 swede. Now let me tell you about "the Mopar tax". I have a 72 Plymouth and a 72 Chevy and the difference in prices for parts is sometimes bordering on the absurd. Thanks! It has a 360 in it apparently, and should be mated witha 727. I’ve found that prices for US cars in Sweden are generally disgusting. When I have needed stuff for my S10 I’ve found that I could just buy a ton of stuff from the US for the same price as one or two things would have cost buying from here in Sweden (looking at you Hansen Racing). What kind of parts are the worst when it comes to the “Mopar tax”? I’m also lucky that I have a father-in-law that has had Mopar stuff all his life (Daily drives a Checker taxi right now lol) so he knows where to get stuff and people that can fix stuff. The oldest car I’ve ever had / worked on / driven is my ‘98 S10. From what I can tell, parts-wise, is that the interior needs a deep clean, but most of the parts are there. The front seats needs fixing and redoing, which is going to be expensive. I would love to do as much as possible myself though. Back seat looked in good condition. The dashboard is missing the radio, but seems complete otherwise. With this car Ïm going to try to bite off small pieces and do a proper to do list. I have a tendency to get sucked into the black hole that is renovation otherwise and end up either taking too much apart or jumping between things (which ends up with too much stuff apart). Edit: Managed to miss this: Raluek posted:i dont think that would be a $500 car here, either. probably a couple grand, actually more now since covid blew up all prices Yeah probably. I like the slotted mags as well (perhaps not the yellow colour in them, but it'll probably grow on me). I'm looking forward to getting into it, and this time I've promised myself I'll take tons of pictures so I don't have to resort to finding YouTube videos and going frame by frame zooming in to see how something goes back together... Found a digital copy of the workshop manual for a 1966 Dart, which hopefully is close enough on most stuff. Also found a parts catalogue that I'm hoping can give some guidance on interchangeable parts between the different Mopar cars. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Feb 8, 2022 |
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Feb 8, 2022 08:14
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New stereo time!  Atoto F7 Pro 8" floating display with CarPlay. I added a wireless CarPlay adapter, and a rearview (720p!) camera. So far, it's working well. No issues connecting the wireless CarPlay. It seems responsive, on par with the Alpine in my wife's Outback as far as that goes. Sounds fine to my ears. Only complaint so far is that the way the removable screen attaches is annoying with the overhang my dash has, and they left those mounting bits unpainted, despite the screen floating a fair distance from the chassis:   I fixed that:   You know that adage about 1 stuck bolt turning a 15 minute job into an ordeal? Well, this wasn't a 15 minute job, but this damned thig did it's best to add to the total:    The nut seized at the top, for whatever reason, then the impact then ripped the splines off of the stud, so I had to get in there with a reciprocating saw, while attempting to hold it steady with a socket and extension and my third hand that I don't have. Pain in the butt. I'll have to find a M12 9.8 or better bolt and nut to replace it with. Man, all I needed was to move the rear seatback out enough to run the camera cable.
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Feb 9, 2022 23:35
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Darchangel posted:New stereo time! Yeah that's the unit I had before I decided to get the bigger unit, it doesn't have that wonky bracket.
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Feb 10, 2022 08:22
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EvilBeard posted:Went out and finished up the vac lines and the fuel line on the supercharger project. I also put a 90 elbow in a coolant line because it wanted to kink where I had to reroute it around the supercharger. Got the fittings for the boost gauge and put it in the vac lines. Fired it up, and I have no boost. I started checking the BOV and it's staying open even when I throttle up. I hooked my air compressor to it and put 10 psi to it. It stayed closed, but I still built no boost. I tested the boost gauge by blowing into it, so I know that works. I guess I either have a boost leak or my supercharger isn't making boost. Going to dig into it further in the morning. I did get the intake cover and coil covers back on. You figure this out? I doubt you could get that routed wrong and spin the blower the wrong way. How hard were you spinning this thing to see no boost? BOV should stay closed all the time, and would run like poo poo if it was open I'd think.
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Feb 10, 2022 16:58
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Mr-Spain posted:You figure this out? I doubt you could get that routed wrong and spin the blower the wrong way. How hard were you spinning this thing to see no boost? BOV should stay closed all the time, and would run like poo poo if it was open I'd think. I double checked everything, and it still built no boost. I ran it all the way to redline. Tried both a gentle climb and a major stab. The manufacturer says that with no load, I won't really build boost. Says that on the ground with load on the engine, it'll build boost in the manifold. Hoping to get the body kit installed Saturday, and get the front wheels back on it so I can give it a go. That at letting the snow melt enough for me to get it to pavement. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 18:02
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Did first bit of work on the -65 Dart GT shitheap, which meant cleaning the worst of the moldy and previously infested interior. Been stored inside for 20 years but I suspect that after the guy who I later bought it off got it, it's been sitting outside which explains at least some of the mold. Anyway, this was the starting point: Wasn't too bad actually. I put some penetrating fluid on the seat bolts an hours before and they came out with no problem. Of course most of the door card hardware was mismatched or missing, and the door cars themselves are ruined. I doubt they are original, and using the existing ones as templates it seems a very simple job to make new ones. I noticed that all the arm rests are missing, so probably something I should source. I also took the time to clean out the doors and give them a substantial amount of Bilt Hamber Dynax anti-corrosion fluid along the bottom and the seams, but all in all the doors were pretty rust free. The front seats were screwed though, and it's gonna cost me (based of some quick googling...) unless I find some other solution. Other than that no big stuff as far as rust goes. Some badly finished patches on the floor, but then again the car is 5 years younger than my mom and still has less rust than some modern cars... I think the car was originally a column shift car and they swapped it when they swapped in a bigger V8? Because this is OEM quality work lmao:  I bought some Bilt Hamber Epoxy mastic for my S10 pickup, but never used it. It's similar to POR-15 in its use area, so I'm thinking I might just wire-wheel the whole floor and treat it while I'm at it. That will also uncover any hidden rust and prepare it for a new carpet (not reusing the 3 parts old one with mouse piss and maggots). Also have to decide if I need to do anything about the not so pretty welding job securing the stick shift (seems solid, but need to check again) or leave "well enough" alone (loosely used term...)
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Feb 10, 2022 20:50
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Start a thread you jerk. You're not a jerk. Please supply us with more mid 60s Mopar goodness. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 22:37
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Start a thread you jerk. I was afraid of this. I guess I need to make a thread that will do dead after 3 posts (I'm hoping to get this heap of poo poo driveable by summer lmao)!. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 22:56
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Starting a thread and depriving your silent readers of content is the AI way.
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Feb 10, 2022 22:59
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Which summer? This summer? Lmao
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Feb 10, 2022 23:10
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StormDrain posted:Starting a thread and depriving your silent readers of content is the AI way. This is the way.
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Feb 10, 2022 23:15
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yeah no way those welds are original. looks like the whole top of the tunnel has been off of it if the seat frames are still in ok shape, you should be able to get them rebuilt locally a lot cheaper than buying replacements online. i was quoted $400 to redo a bench seat, so probably around the same ballpark for a pair of buckets? also adding my +1 onto the pile for a new thread. i was never really into mopars, but they've been growing on me in the last couple years
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Feb 11, 2022 06:36
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Today I sold all the Honcho's original engine parts I had left and put two new to me tires on the back of the Comanche. It's going to be weird not having to fill the rear right tire every 3 to 30 days depending on luck and phase of the moon.Mr-Spain posted:You figure this out? I doubt you could get that routed wrong and spin the blower the wrong way. How hard were you spinning this thing to see no boost? BOV should stay closed all the time, and would run like poo poo if it was open I'd think. Something an incredible number of people don't realize, so don't feel bad if you were on this list, I was too until a few years ago: All the grooved pulleys turn the same direction as the crank if it's a grooved harmonic balancer. (Most are) All the smooth pulleys turn the other direction. This is a universal fact, unless you route the belt so incorrectly that you have the smooth side of the belt on a grooved pulley or vise versa, or have twists in the belt or something.
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Feb 11, 2022 07:16
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https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3993256 Thread started! Mustache Ride posted:Which summer? This summer? Lmao Also, this. Ask my wife about my time optimism.
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Feb 11, 2022 14:01
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StormDrain posted:Starting a thread and depriving your silent readers of content is the AI way. I feel personally attacked.
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Feb 11, 2022 14:47
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kastein posted:Something an incredible number of people don't realize, so don't feel bad if you were on this list, I was too until a few years ago: Though as I discovered, it is possible on some cars to route the belt just incorrectly enough that everything turns the right direction but you don't have enough wrap and you're wondering why it seems to be a bit light on belt tension 
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Feb 11, 2022 16:07
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Wasabi the J posted:Yeah that's the unit I had before I decided to get the bigger unit, it doesn't have that wonky bracket. Unfortunately, I couldn't make the 10" fit without blocking stuff. So far it's been pretty good. I've had an intermittent issue of it blanking the screen in CarPlay. Music continues to play, and if you know where to press, the touchscreen is working. Hitting the hardware "home" button, then going back to CarPlay brings it back. No idea if it does it in other modes - I don't use them so far. Not fatal- just annoying. It was fine to and from work on Wednesday, then did it 4-5 times today (Friday.) I just installed a firmware update at lunch. We'll see if that fixes it. By the numbers, it was several versions newer.
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Feb 11, 2022 21:27
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StormDrain posted:Starting a thread and depriving your silent readers of content is the AI way. I just post whatever I happen to be doing to whichever car, car-related, and car-adjacent stuff (the house is car-adjacent right? I mean, the garage is attached!)
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Feb 11, 2022 21:37
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Feb 11, 2022 22:37
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Got the drat thing reassembled finally Thank jesus the head was MASSIVELY easier to clean than the manifold. Got it right in an hour, maybe less.  Got a fancy new Skunk2 insulating gasket   Hm. Two other bolts hold the fuel rail on. Hopefully not an issue Got it all reassembled and it turned over fine but no love. I couldn't hear the fuel pump so I checked the connector and...no juice. gently caress  Got some lunch and thought about it. Then i looked into the center console and sure as poo poo, there was a 15A fuse for the pump, still out https://i.imgur.com/a3vWEri.mp4 (click for video, has sound) Runs really smooth considering how long it's sat. Only issue is a leak at the top of the throttle body, I think it's at the MAP sensor. Odd because I didn't gently caress with that but who knows. Old cars don't cotton to having parts moved around. Might just be an o-ring that crumbled while it was out. Tomorrow.
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Feb 12, 2022 01:42
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kastein posted:Something an incredible number of people don't realize, so don't feel bad if you were on this list, I was too until a few years ago: How in the hell did I never know/notice this before?
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Feb 12, 2022 05:17
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 Got the body kit installed. Ready to drop it down and give it a shakedown. Just waiting on the weather.
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Feb 12, 2022 22:45
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 I'll make a thread once the kpower kit gets here, no point until then
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Feb 12, 2022 23:43
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BlackMK4 posted:
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Feb 13, 2022 00:20
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BlackMK4 posted:
You are a madman and I'm all for it
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Feb 13, 2022 00:38
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 This loving radiator would not let go of his condenser buddy.  The plastic gave up before the clip: 
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Feb 13, 2022 00:57
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BlackMK4 posted:
I'll take "pictures that made me wish I had an address outside of Maricopa county for $1000", Alex.
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Feb 13, 2022 03:29
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BlackMK4 posted:
For the knuckledraggers in the room, whazzis?
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Feb 13, 2022 15:49
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MrYenko posted:For the knuckledraggers in the room, whazzis? He's about to put a Honda engine in a Subaru BRZ track car.
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Feb 13, 2022 16:25
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I remember all the hype about the GT86/BRZ and how the aftermarket was going to support the engine. Had a guy at an old job who put in an electric supercharger on one and didn’t understand why I was laughing at him.
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Feb 13, 2022 16:39
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honda whisperer posted:He's about to put a Honda engine in a Subaru BRZ track car. So it’ll actually be able to get out of its own way now? Nice! Which flavor Honda is it? I know them by reputation, just not by sight.
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Feb 13, 2022 16:51
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K series of some kind.
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Feb 13, 2022 17:13
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BigPaddy posted:I remember all the hype about the GT86/BRZ and how the aftermarket was going to support the engine. Had a guy at an old job who put in an electric supercharger on one and didn’t understand why I was laughing at him. this made me remember during the height of  you could buy little 12v computer fans to stick in the intake being sold as electric superchargers, lol.
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Feb 13, 2022 18:09
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