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Justa Dandelion posted:Hey plumbing goons, why does my cold water turn warm for a second and then go back cold? Water pipes in the walls let the water warm up but is quickly used and replaced by colder water from the ground.
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Feb 10, 2022 05:42
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Because somewhere downstream, that pipe sits very close to a heat source, so a slug of water in the pipe warms up.
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Feb 10, 2022 06:40
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Cool, thanks!
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Feb 10, 2022 15:38
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Revisiting my hybrid heat pump water heater dreams / plans... anyone in the industry / recent purchasers, can you comment on the apparently insanely noisy "Gen V" Rheem hybrid models, and what the manufacturing dates were? Reddit, other reviews seem to indicate its not only louder than expected but it is a high frequency, aggravating pitch of noise as well. I think I saw someone in a review call out the anode was not replaceable / serviceable, which also bothers me -- I don't like buying something that I know is gonna die because they took away the choice for me to service it. I see Electrolux makes a stainless model -- is stainless popular? I don't really care about app connectivity (apparently EcoNet is good?) -- just something around 60 gallons, with leak guard / detection, and hybrid. I can plumb the condensate up and out of my garage + cut in louvres into the mech room door, so I feel decent about DIYing this. Haven't done plumbing before, so its an excuse to buy new tools / try it out! I don't currently have an expansion tank -- what do I look at to confirm if I need it? As I understand it (I'm more electrical, so I always go back to the water analogy), if you don't have this, any (over)pressurization (heating, whatever) tries to make its way back to the city service. Expansion tank provides room for that expansion so it doesn't hit a check valve upstream / something like that -- is that generally the idea? movax fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 22:00
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Hopefully quick plumbing question: Redoing my 1955-built bathroom and planning to replace the tub-shower's two knob handles with a single lever or ball handle. My problem is that I'm having trouble finding the right kind of lever, and don't know the correct term to search for. I went to my local home improvement store and they had a dozen types for sale, but all were the kind where water pressure is constant and you rotate the handle like a clock hand to select temperature, passing through cold to get to hot. I am not fond of this design style, and associate it with the sort of mass-installed designs you see in motels and such. Maybe I'm wrong, but it just seems cheap looking. The kind I'm looking for is where the lever or ball is lifted towards you / upwards to select water pressure, and then rotated one direction for hotter and the other direction for colder. Is there a name for this?
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Feb 14, 2022 04:37
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Bobulus posted:Is there a name for this? Madness, because who on earth needs to reduce the flow of a modern shower head?
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Feb 14, 2022 05:17
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Maybe something like this? https://www.vintagetub.com/bathroom/tub-faucets.html?features=1963 But honestly I dunno what you are looking for, if I have ever seen a faucet like what you are describing I don't recall it. But I like the one handle jobs, easy, simple, one hole, and less work to fix.
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Feb 14, 2022 05:59
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Not exactly what you're looking for but would a dual control shower valve work?
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Feb 14, 2022 06:21
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Bobulus posted:Hopefully quick plumbing question: Dual-action or double-action. https://www.amazon.com/Delta-T17038...44846055&sr=8-2 Not sure the lever-style is made any more. Also, try a plumbing supply house to find one that isn't made of plastic. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Feb 14, 2022 |
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Feb 14, 2022 14:42
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I'm describing this badly. I want a single-lever setup. Like... you know a kitchen sink single lever? Lift to turn on, swing side to side to change temperature? I want that, but mounted to a vertical surface.
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Feb 14, 2022 15:25
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Bobulus posted:I'm describing this badly. I want a single-lever setup. Like... you know a kitchen sink single lever? Lift to turn on, swing side to side to change temperature? I want that, but mounted to a vertical surface. The issue I believe, and someone may correct me, is that you might be limited by the valve in your wall. I had a cheap, old moen that worked that way, and wanted to upgrade to a nicer, more modern setup. I couldn't, due to the valve in the wall only accepting that style. I suspect you may find you have the opposite issue.
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Feb 14, 2022 19:27
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I'm going to be replacing the valve anyway, so that part won't be an issue.
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Feb 14, 2022 20:23
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Bobulus posted:I'm describing this badly. I want a single-lever setup. Like... you know a kitchen sink single lever? Lift to turn on, swing side to side to change temperature? I want that, but mounted to a vertical surface. You don't need a sink style lever to control pressure and temp. Grohe makes one that does that, I'm sure other manufacturers do as well.
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Feb 14, 2022 21:57
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The burner and the regulator on my water heater keep going bad(blink code says bad burner). Like once a year. Do I just have a poo poo water heater or is there an underlying problem that could be causing this? Waterheater is a Lowes-bought Whirlpool that came with the house(was replaced 5~ years ago). Whirlpool doesn't make them, if that matters.
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Feb 14, 2022 22:04
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This isn't me but I think this is what it looked like last time I replaced and dude seems to be having a similar problem https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/q0m24w/had_to_replace_burner_on_reliance_gas_water/
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Feb 14, 2022 22:19
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heh came to ask a very similar question. 18 month old Rheem Pro Classic 40 gallon just shut off over the weekend - the guys that installed it said the gas control valve has gone bad and replaced on warranty minus labor. Still wasnt working properly and they said burner needs to be replaced as well, both part and labor not covered. Just confused how something a year and a half old can become inoperable and not be warrantied on a tank with a 10 yr warranty. I thought thats the point of the warranty?
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Feb 16, 2022 16:12
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The tank has a 10 year warranty, the rest of the system has a different warranty.
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Feb 16, 2022 16:19
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schreibs posted:heh came to ask a very similar question. 18 month old Rheem Pro Classic 40 gallon just shut off over the weekend - the guys that installed it said the gas control valve has gone bad and replaced on warranty minus labor. Still wasnt working properly and they said burner needs to be replaced as well, both part and labor not covered. Just confused how something a year and a half old can become inoperable and not be warrantied on a tank with a 10 yr warranty. I thought thats the point of the warranty? It's probably the flame sensor that's gone bad or needs cleaning. Anything more complicated than a standing pilot and thermocouple has bewildered the plumbers I've talked to and their default solution is to replace the burner assembly, including the pilot and flame sensing components.
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Feb 16, 2022 16:39
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schreibs posted:heh came to ask a very similar question. 18 month old Rheem Pro Classic 40 gallon just shut off over the weekend - the guys that installed it said the gas control valve has gone bad and replaced on warranty minus labor. Still wasnt working properly and they said burner needs to be replaced as well, both part and labor not covered. Just confused how something a year and a half old can become inoperable and not be warrantied on a tank with a 10 yr warranty. I thought thats the point of the warranty? Rheem had a bad run of gas control valves in 2020, they were all or mostly deflective. (confirmed by rheem tech support) I replaced mine three times...the first two times was with the same run of valves but this last time (just last week) is supposedly a new run with the issue fixed. It's pretty easy to replace, and if you are remotely handy, and ok with working with gas lines, the longest part of it is waiting for the tank to drain. (You could make a vacuum in tank with it when full. However depending where it is might not want to gamble with water damage if done incorrectly.)
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Feb 16, 2022 19:39
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Rakeris posted:Rheem had a bad run of gas control valves in 2020, they were all or mostly deflective. (confirmed by rheem tech support) I replaced mine three times...the first two times was with the same run of valves but this last time (just last week) is supposedly a new run with the issue fixed. It's pretty easy to replace, and if you are remotely handy, and ok with working with gas lines, the longest part of it is waiting for the tank to drain. (You could make a vacuum in tank with it when full. However depending where it is might not want to gamble with water damage if done incorrectly.) Wait what? Where is the gas valve on your water heater that it's anywhere near the tank? All the tanks I've seen have the gas valve sticking out the front. The gas valve and thermostat are attached to the thermostat probe that goes into the tank but they can be disconnected from it and they're not attached solidly enough that you'd damage the tank accidentally.
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Feb 16, 2022 20:20
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SpartanIvy posted:Wait what? Where is the gas valve on your water heater that it's anywhere near the tank? All the tanks I've seen have the gas valve sticking out the front. The gas valve and thermostat are attached to the thermostat probe that goes into the tank but they can be disconnected from it and they're not attached solidly enough that you'd damage the tank accidentally. It's the thing that goes inside the tank to regulate the temp and control the gas to the burner/pilot. The one I have you can unhook it from the pilot, thermocouple, and burner. The one for my water heater is below. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-S...KUaAvZLEALw_wcB
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Feb 16, 2022 23:41
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SpartanIvy posted:This is crazy as hell. I have no real idea. My first thought was maybe something crawled in and died like a bird, and then a bunch of dirt and filth over years filled in the gaps around the corpse and leveled the blockage off. But you said you hit it with a snake and it didn't budge, so I doubt that's it. Since it's only four feet down, maybe you could use a threaded rod or something similar like a spear and try to pierce it as one last hurrah before doing sheetrock damage. If you can get a hole through it, you could maybe fish it out with some bent coat hanger on a pole or at least get a better grip on it with the snake to break it up. Ok, got a trip report for this, now that the two weeks of winter is over. Bought a 7ft threaded rod, and was able to shove it thought the clog, I did that numerous times but it still wasn't clear, (don't think rod was long enough) it appeared to be at least 2ft thick by how far it was showing up on the rod. It appeared to be dirt? Didn't smell bad, looked like dirt.  But feeling close to success I got the garden hose with a high pressure nozzle, (a rain coat would have been smart too) and shoved it down there and was able to eventually clear it out, all appears good now. Thanks all.
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Feb 17, 2022 00:48
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Rakeris posted:It's the thing that goes inside the tank to regulate the temp and control the gas to the burner/pilot. The one I have you can unhook it from the pilot, thermocouple, and burner. The one for my water heater is below. Interesting. That's way different than my Rheem. Rakeris posted:Ok, got a trip report for this, now that the two weeks of winter is over. Bought a 7ft threaded rod, and was able to shove it thought the clog, I did that numerous times but it still wasn't clear, (don't think rod was long enough) it appeared to be at least 2ft thick by how far it was showing up on the rod. It appeared to be dirt? Didn't smell bad, looked like dirt. Woo! Glad you got a successful conclusion. I'm still wondering how that happened in the first place though.
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Feb 17, 2022 01:55
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Bobulus posted:Hopefully quick plumbing question: 
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Feb 17, 2022 02:15
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Rakeris posted:It's the thing that goes inside the tank to regulate the temp and control the gas to the burner/pilot. The one I have you can unhook it from the pilot, thermocouple, and burner. The one for my water heater is below. Thats exactly what I have, except its a red knob, probably because its LPG.
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Feb 17, 2022 04:16
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My condo board has been trying to get everybody to sign up to get our Pressure Reducing Valves replaced. I'm told the expected life span is about 10 years, I bought the unit when it was just about 10 years old and I've never replaced mine in the past 5 years, nor do I believe the previous owner ever replaced it. Installation of a new one will cost about $500 or a bit less if enough people sign up. I don't particularly think the board is trying to scam us, but I don't want to spend $500 just because I don't any better than to say no. Does it sound like a good deal?
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Feb 17, 2022 20:36
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To follow up for anyone that had the same question, at least in Moen the answer seems to be M-core: Specifically, if I'm understanding their terminology correctly, I want an M-core, 4-port, 3-series valve. M-core: company's standardized valve housing that you can drop different cartridges in so it's supposedly easily replaceable later. 4-port: Has two inputs for hot and cold, and two outputs for shower and tub. 3-series: has volume control, I think? Bobulus fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Feb 17, 2022 |
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Feb 17, 2022 23:19
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When do you not want max water pressure?
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Feb 17, 2022 23:30
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i like nice words
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It's less that, and more than I dislike the 'pass through cold to get to hot' style of control. The pressure control levers have the other control method, the one I'm used to, where control is straight up and down at the midpoint between hot and cold, and you rotate counterclockwise for hot and clockwise for cold.
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Feb 17, 2022 23:41
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I recently moved into a new apartment (US) and I hate my kitchen sink. The cold water is either completely off or 100% on, so for all tasks you can choose between 34° and 120°, and either way everything within a 2' radius gets drenched. The faucet also has a really strong kick when the cold turns on. The hot water has the same issues but to a lesser extent. There's one faucet and two separate handles. I want to watch a couple youtube videos and install a new faucet with one mixer handle. Will that take care of it? Basically, is this something I can solve myself under the sink, or is it a bigger issue within the walls?
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Feb 20, 2022 03:34
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probably ask your landlord first Faucet swap is fairly simple, should be able to find some youtubes
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Feb 20, 2022 04:30
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Anne Whateley posted:I recently moved into a new apartment (US) and I hate my kitchen sink. The cold water is either completely off or 100% on, so for all tasks you can choose between 34° and 120°, and either way everything within a 2' radius gets drenched. The faucet also has a really strong kick when the cold turns on. The hot water has the same issues but to a lesser extent. Do you own the place or rent? I rented a place for years and the landlord 'forgot' to turn on the hot line completely after changing out the faucet in my kitchen. It caused similar issues to what you describe. If you look underneath the counter do you see shut off valves for your faucet? If so, one (the hot probably) might not be open all the way.
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Feb 20, 2022 04:33
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I watched some youtubes and it does look pretty doable. The question is more whether a new faucet would fix my issues or whether something else is causing it. I can do whatever to stuff that's actually inside my apartment, it's just when it goes inside the walls that I start having to bother the (useless) super. e: just checked, both cutoffs could be turned a little more, but no change in behavior when they were Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 04:33
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Anne Whateley posted:I watched some youtubes and it does look pretty doable. The question is more whether a new faucet would fix my issues or whether something else is causing it. You have more than one faucet. Is this the only one acting this way?
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Feb 20, 2022 04:41
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The shower, which is old and has separate handles for hot and cold, has the same issue to a lesser degree (it takes a lot of fiddling, but you can get an in-between temperature). I replaced the showerhead, but I'm not going to gently caress with whatever internal valves or the tiling it takes to get to them. The bathroom vanity is new and has one lever handle. It's fine. Because it's an apartment building, units in a vertical row are all identical, and afaik the plumbing is all up and down. So I think my kitchen and bathroom plumbing are on separate lines, so it may not be useful information. For example, the kitchen hot water (without the aerator) is dark brown and chunky, while the bathroom hot water (without the aerator) looks like water. Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 04:46
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Then it's unlikely to be your plumbing in general. Do you have hard water? That's one possible explanation to these issues, and a new faucet will "fix" the issue for now. Edit to respond to your edit: talk to your neighbors. See if they have the same issues in the same plumbing stacks to make sure this is not a building issue.
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Feb 20, 2022 04:49
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Definitely hard water and presumably corroding iron somewhere, that's why I'm not freaking out about the brown and chunky. How would that cause the cold water going from 0 to 100? I agree the plumbing isn't hosed up buildingwide, I'm just not sure whether there might be an issue on my kitchen line, or even not affecting the whole line and just before my sink. I do definitely want to talk to my vertical neighbors about that and a couple other things (like no electrical outlet in the bathroom) e: I guess I was just hoping it was a known issue of old cartridges or something. I'm having no luck googling or finding a name for what's happening Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 04:56
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If the flow rates are restricted somewhere downstream, it can make for some very funky mixing issues. What you are describing (kitchen vs bathroom) may indicate that part of the system servicing your unit (and possibly your neighbors as well) may be galvanized steel, which by now may be occluded to an inside diameter of a pencil.
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Feb 20, 2022 05:39
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Bobulus posted:Hopefully quick plumbing question: Have you found something to get yet, or no? While the one I have in my apartment doesn't sound exactly like what you want, it also doesn't have the issue where you have to pass through Cold to get to Hot. If you want, I can take a picture of it and see if I can't find some manufacturer markings.
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Feb 20, 2022 06:05
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PainterofCrap posted:If the flow rates are restricted somewhere downstream, it can make for some very funky mixing issues. Adding to this to answer the "how could hard water do this" part as well: I've run across numerous cartridges that will begin to stick in various ways/directions. Kohler has a shower mixing valve......and I have one of those.....that will get sticky and stay on full hot after it's been turned to that until you turn is completely off again. There is a free replacement that fixes this that I haven't gotten around to doing. I've seen various other behaviors on faucets around my (very hard water) area as they age/get full of calcified gunk.
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Feb 20, 2022 17:25
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