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Rescue Toaster
Mar 13, 2003

biracial bear for uncut posted:

The problem there is accounting for the difference between your tool length and wherever the tip of the BLTouch/Probe tip is.

Most of the small machines like the one you reference do not have fixed length tool holders (what I think of as "old school" tool holders where all of your end mills had a flat ground on them somewhere for a set screw in the tool holder to tighten up against, and a theoretically known/fixed location for that flat relative to the tip of the tool), so you'd have the same problem of figuring out how to tell the machine what the difference is between the BLTouch type probe and the tool length offset probe in terms of scripting.

That's what I'm trying to solve, basically. The probe is independent of the tool height and is repeatable, and that's what you use to create the work surface mesh. Then you have a small level aluminum plate (or whatever) in one corner, you re-check that with the probe, and then you could automatically check it with the current tool, from there you can work everything out. The plate could be permanently grounded, and the spindle shaft could be temporarily connected to the sense line with a micro servo and a metal strip or something.

The biggest problem I see is the probe would have to retract above the max depth you'd want to cut to, and would have to extend just below the tool so you could measure the surfaces while a tool is mounted. I guess the alternative is you do all the measurements with no tool installed, just the probe. And then the last step is to install the tool and re-check the difference. Just have to be careful not to gently caress up the Z position while changing. Or optionally instead of a fixed plate, you could use a little cylinder or cube that stuck up in one corner, which means once a tool is installed the probe doesn't have to extend down past the tool, you just probe to the thing that sticks up, then lift the Z way up, move over and probe with the tool.

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Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
That seems like an awful lot of work vs. simply probing tools relative to the machine table/spoilboard surface and doing all of your programming so that you retract above any clamps/fixtures during non-machining moves and account for your known material thickness in said programs when determining depth of cut/etc.

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




RE fixed probe length, I recently saw a YouTube video where the person made an er20 collet shaped probe body, so that their probe would be repeatable in an er20 tool holder. It’s by one of the mods of the Linux cnc forum, Andy Pugh. He posts few videos, but they always show something interesting or clever.

https://youtu.be/yOvBcecJ3Fg

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017

biracial bear for uncut posted:

That seems like an awful lot of work vs. simply probing tools relative to the machine table/spoilboard surface and doing all of your programming so that you retract above any clamps/fixtures during non-machining moves and account for your known material thickness in said programs when determining depth of cut/etc.

Yeah I've always touched tools off relative to the table and then used g54 z to account for table to workpiece height. You can touch your probe off to the table and get that value so you can probe the top of workpiece and then use math to know table to workpiece heights. Tools don't need to benr wet per job and it's easy for using a height gauge or similar for setting workpiece z height if that's what you want to do.

Rescue Toaster
Mar 13, 2003
I think with my little 3018 currently it tends to be faster to probe the depth rather than re-surface everything with a tiny 1/8" spindle. But moving to a more powerful spindle should speed that up and hopefully make using probing to level things unnecessary.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
If the table of the machine isn't level/trammed/flat to the X/Y travel plane you have bigger issues than a 1/8" bit limitation on the existing spindle.

Base Emitter
Apr 1, 2012

?
Anybody familiar with constraints in SolveSpace? I'm trying it out instead of Fusion 360 for designing front panels that I can laser cut in acrylic or CNC in whatever. I'm using constraints for positioning cutouts because it makes it a lot easier to make sure the panel layout matches the PCB the controls are soldered to.

I think I've got it mostly figured out except for one detail - I'd like engraved text labels that are centered over a hole for a knob/switch/whatever. Getting the size and vertical offset from the hole is easy, but I'm still trying to figure out how to center the text.

I guess I could make a reference line that doesn't get engraved and make the corners of the label symmetrical around that line? It seems clunky, is there a better way?

eta: Looks like adding construction lines solves that problem and if I'd started out with those as references to start with it would simplify things in other ways...

On the whole SolveSpace seems to work pretty well for my use case despite the user interface having, shall we say, a very vintage vibe. But it works better for me than Fusion 360 even after a fairly small amount of goofing around with it, and isn't cloud-based with bullshit limitations on it. We'll see how well it gets along with my laser software in a little while.

Base Emitter fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jan 31, 2022

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




I've been tinkering with my 3018, adding a longer travel spindle, bigger rods, some linear rails where I could do it for <$100. I am working on some rails for the Y and a big ole 16mm ball screw I picked up for 30 bucks. I'd like to slap some bigger steppers on there, I think, and was wondering if anyone had opinions on "better" grbl controllers. I was looking at https://www.spark-concepts.com/cnc-xpro-v5/, but I'd appreciate any thoughts on if a 32 bit controller is is really worth it in this regards.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Commodore_64 posted:

I've been tinkering with my 3018, adding a longer travel spindle, bigger rods, some linear rails where I could do it for <$100. I am working on some rails for the Y and a big ole 16mm ball screw I picked up for 30 bucks. I'd like to slap some bigger steppers on there, I think, and was wondering if anyone had opinions on "better" grbl controllers. I was looking at https://www.spark-concepts.com/cnc-xpro-v5/, but I'd appreciate any thoughts on if a 32 bit controller is is really worth it in this regards.

32-bit isn't worth it until you've got enough grunt to move the thing fast with high load. all 32-bit GRBL gets you is much higher speed. until you get into Actual Machine Servos (r) i don't think it's going to matter much.

I'm running a RAMPs board from 2011 on my expanded 3018, and I'm rate-limited by the power I can dump into NEMA-23 servo @ 24VDC with passive cooling. Speed still isn't an issue.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Popped over from the 3d printer thread and was wondering if there were some current recommendations for a CNC wood carver.

My dad's looking to dip into CNC and wants a workhorse to do projects sub 3x3ft. Is a shapoko 4 the way to go?

He's pretty decent figuring out tech but I'd like to get him on the right path so he'll actually use the tool without having to fight with it all the time. I live relatively close by so I'm happy to set it up in my garage, tune the poo poo out of it, then surprise him

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

w00tmonger posted:

Popped over from the 3d printer thread and was wondering if there were some current recommendations for a CNC wood carver.

My dad's looking to dip into CNC and wants a workhorse to do projects sub 3x3ft. Is a shapoko 4 the way to go?

He's pretty decent figuring out tech but I'd like to get him on the right path so he'll actually use the tool without having to fight with it all the time. I live relatively close by so I'm happy to set it up in my garage, tune the poo poo out of it, then surprise him

I think woodworking CNC mills/routers with that work area don't really exist for that much less than your high-end "hobbyist" 3d printers.

Unless you are willing to roll your own or dig into a MaslowCNC build (which was intended for primarily "cut poo poo out of 4x8 sheets of plywood")?

For reference, here is where to get the basic kit for it for about $570: https://makermade.com/products/basic-maslow-cnc-kit

And here is their customized version of the kit with extra bells/whistles (some extra hardware for securing it to a wall, straps for the counterweights to keep them in place, better bracketry for attaching a vacuum to keep dust down, etc.) for about $1,200: https://makermade.com/collections/all/products/2021-m2-cnc-kit

It's not particularly fast, but I think the work area vs. cost is pretty good and plan to build one of my own the next time I have "free time" during the summer months.

Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Feb 14, 2022

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

For $1,500 and primarily wood projects, I’d say go for it.

There’s a lot of support and community out there, most CAM software will support it no problem, and post processors are easy to come by.

I like the one stop shop for things, and there’s a lot of room to grow on the software side if you ever need to. The motion controller is adequate, and you can likely upgrade that if you ever need to.

There are trade offs and things like that, but kinda like a Prusa if it’s your first entry into the hobby and you have the budget, I recommend it.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

NewFatMike posted:

For $1,500 and primarily wood projects, I’d say go for it.

There’s a lot of support and community out there, most CAM software will support it no problem, and post processors are easy to come by.

I like the one stop shop for things, and there’s a lot of room to grow on the software side if you ever need to. The motion controller is adequate, and you can likely upgrade that if you ever need to.

There are trade offs and things like that, but kinda like a Prusa if it’s your first entry into the hobby and you have the budget, I recommend it.

Cool, yeah he's a woodworker first and not a 3dprinting guy so probably a decent option

If it was for me id probably do some DIY insanity myself

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Have y’all ever used APSX machines? I got served an ad for a tiny Swiss machine and while I can’t afford it now, I think I could set it as a goal for the future.

https://www.apsx.com/apsx-nano-cnc-swiss-lathe

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

NewFatMike posted:

Have y’all ever used APSX machines? I got served an ad for a tiny Swiss machine and while I can’t afford it now, I think I could set it as a goal for the future.

https://www.apsx.com/apsx-nano-cnc-swiss-lathe

Uhhh no, that seems like a v good price. Ive been out of the market a while though.

And they have a PIM machine too starting at $12K.

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




That nano is so drat cool and I just want it. No projects or anything, just man that really is a cool package.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Right? That router is pretty impressive, too - 12” X 24” ain’t half bad for a benchtop device that can make a dent in steel.

E: yeah the Swiss lathe is super tight. And who wouldn’t want their own custom fasteners at the drop of a hat?

Wanderless
Apr 30, 2009
We have APSX's injection molder and for a teaching environment it is great!
The swiss lathe looks like a far better deal than the tormach lathe we have only barely gotten to do things (No tailstock, seriously?).

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Wanderless posted:

We have APSX's injection molder and for a teaching environment it is great!
The swiss lathe looks like a far better deal than the tormach lathe we have only barely gotten to do things (No tailstock, seriously?).

A lathe with no tail stock is shameful, is the bed super short or something? Does it come with steady rests?

Wanderless
Apr 30, 2009

CarForumPoster posted:

A lathe with no tail stock is shameful, is the bed super short or something? Does it come with steady rests?

It is a CNC lathe so it isn't unheard of, but it is pretty terrible. It lacks the rigidity to do much of anything--a .100 depth of cut in 6061 with appropriate speeds/feeds/tooling caused it to bog down, probably because it seems to have way more flex than any similarly-sized lathe I've ever used. Free taper with every cut!

https://tormach.com/machines/lathes/15l-slant-pro-lathe.html

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

That’s so weird. I’ve got a couple hundred hours on the 15L from a workshop nearby, but I was always making tiny things so a tailstock was never necessary.

I don’t think that APSX can utilize a chuck other than that bar feed, can it? Might be worth asking them but I don’t want to get bludgeoned with infinite emails from them.

ZincBoy
May 7, 2006

Think again Jimmy!

Wanderless posted:

It is a CNC lathe so it isn't unheard of, but it is pretty terrible. It lacks the rigidity to do much of anything--a .100 depth of cut in 6061 with appropriate speeds/feeds/tooling caused it to bog down, probably because it seems to have way more flex than any similarly-sized lathe I've ever used. Free taper with every cut!

0.100 depth of cut on 6061 would be above the rated spindle HP on the tormach with any feed you would want to use with carbide. HSMAdvisor calculates about 0.004 to 0.005"/rev to get the spindle power under 3HP and at that point you are rubbing more than cutting. Not defending the tormach at all but that does not seem like a realistic cut on that machine.

I know on my wet noodle CNC converted 10x22 lathe I have to use ridiculously light cuts (0.02" DOC is typical). It only has a 1HP spindle but the machine can't take much more power than that. Which is why I have a Hardinge HLV waiting for me to get to doing a CNC conversion.


NewFatMike posted:

I don’t think that APSX can utilize a chuck other than that bar feed, can it? Might be worth asking them but I don’t want to get bludgeoned with infinite emails from them.

From the looks of it, I don't think there is any way to use anything other than the bar feed on the ASPX. The bar itself is the drive as the spindle motor is attached to the back of the bar. It is a true swiss style machine so there is no real spindle.

The 300W spindle motor seems really anemic to me even for a max of 0.75" stock. The spindle motor is also the C axis so you have fairly limited torque when milling and I couldn't see anything about a spindle (bar?) brake.

I was tempted by the machine anyway but the 0.001" accuracy spec is pretty poor for most of my use cases. I would need an order of magnitude better than that but then I am back to a real swiss machine at $lots.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

If you’re on the 3DX SOLIDWORKS for Makers platform, check your emails to add CAM! Mine just came through.

There’s some training in the wiki on the Makers Support with videos and all that.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

I come bearing news of other Weird Hobbyist Machines, this time the Langmuir MR1. It’s a gantry based 3 axis mill that’s actually looking like it does pretty good work:

https://youtu.be/qsou3o2IRHc

They’re launching and I wish I weren’t in the middle of paying for a wedding. Even at non early bird pricing it looks pretty promising.

https://www.langmuirsystems.com/mr1

tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.

NewFatMike posted:

I come bearing news of other Weird Hobbyist Machines, this time the Langmuir MR1. It’s a gantry based 3 axis mill that’s actually looking like it does pretty good work:

https://youtu.be/qsou3o2IRHc

They’re launching and I wish I weren’t in the middle of paying for a wedding. Even at non early bird pricing it looks pretty promising.

https://www.langmuirsystems.com/mr1

I keep seeing ads for that thing and thinking “hmm I want one of those” before coming to my senses and remembering that I have 3 mills and 2 lathes available to me to use any time at work.

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




tylertfb posted:

I keep seeing ads for that thing and thinking “hmm I want one of those” before coming to my senses and remembering that I have 3 mills and 2 lathes available to me to use any time at work.

I love that it's nearly everything I would want to do in a small machine. ISO-20 spindle, ballscrews, linear rail, cast concrete structure on the base. That being said, I want STUPID BIG linear rails, I get that 20 and 15 mm are probably just right for the 12mm ballscrews and frame design, but CMON! Also, I want to do some expanding concrete constrained layer dampers, and sadly their gantry is all closed off, so I can't jam some rebar and another tube in there.

Methylethylaldehyde
Oct 23, 2004

BAKA BAKA

Commodore_64 posted:

I love that it's nearly everything I would want to do in a small machine. ISO-20 spindle, ballscrews, linear rail, cast concrete structure on the base. That being said, I want STUPID BIG linear rails, I get that 20 and 15 mm are probably just right for the 12mm ballscrews and frame design, but CMON! Also, I want to do some expanding concrete constrained layer dampers, and sadly their gantry is all closed off, so I can't jam some rebar and another tube in there.

About my only gripe about it is the 100% exposed ball screws and linear rails. If you cut anything abrasive (G10 glass, fiberglass, composites, any kind of alloy or work hardening steel), little flecks of it are going to coat the linear rails and ball screws, and no wiper setup is good enough to entirely eliminate pass-through. My first mod would be some cheap Ali-express tier bellows covers on a 3d printed bracket, and some kind of dust collection/filtration system for it, even if it was 2x 120mm case fans and a small furnace filter.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

So this here's the CNC thread, I didn't know at first glance if my question would fit, but --

I've been looking for a CNC for woodworking for a while. I am not in a rush, but I want something strong, stable, with a large form factor. I'd also like to get a good deal on it.

Facebook ad for a "PrintNC" kit showed up with a picture of the components and this parts list:



tl;dr of the build is -- 2.2kw 220v spindle, 4'x4' cut area, PrintNC basic build. He was asking $1300, which seems strong. I offered $800, which I'd be okay with. I know I need to source, cut, and assemble the steel structure, and get/make a Z-plate, but I'm okay with that, too.

What say you, CNC thread?

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Having never heard of it just now and only briefly looking it up, it at least seems more effective than an X-Carve. Any idea what controller it’s running? Like GRBL or LinuxCNC or Mach?

I’m a huge idiot so I might jump on such a deal.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

NewFatMike posted:

Having never heard of it just now and only briefly looking it up, it at least seems more effective than an X-Carve. Any idea what controller it’s running? Like GRBL or LinuxCNC or Mach?

Either grblHAL or LinuxCNC. I like the bombproof steel structure and size.

quote:

I’m a huge idiot so I might jump on such a deal.
I may be you. :ohdear:

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

I’d see if you can send him some sample G code and see if it’ll air cut to prove it’s functional. It would be tough to beat at $800 if he’ll take it and even at $1,300 it could be tough to beat.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

NewFatMike posted:

I’d see if you can send him some sample G code and see if it’ll air cut to prove it’s functional. It would be tough to beat at $800 if he’ll take it and even at $1,300 it could be tough to beat.

Oh, no... when I said it was a kit, I meant not-out-of-packaging.



But, even factoring in some DOA, it seems to me like a reasonable buy... just need him to meet my price.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Might be more appealing tbh, means it hasn’t been run into the ground yet :v:

Rescue Toaster
Mar 13, 2003
Thank you, carbide create, for randomly inserting gcode commands to lower RPM for no loving reason and breaking a bit. You hunk of poo poo.

I think it's almost time to spend real money on CAM software.

goatsestretchgoals
Jun 4, 2011

Vim is free. :v:

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Rescue Toaster posted:

Thank you, carbide create, for randomly inserting gcode commands to lower RPM for no loving reason and breaking a bit. You hunk of poo poo.

I think it's almost time to spend real money on CAM software.

We had a 4x8 plasma/router table at my last job, and the control box came with Sheetcam installed. I found it to be a very good bare-bones CAM package. No frills, quick & easy to use for 2.5D work.

The gcode it spat out worked well with LinuxCNC with very few fuckups. Whether it would do the same for your machine, who knows.

Ambihelical Hexnut
Aug 5, 2008
VCarve is a tad overpriced but it's been worth it for me. Pretty straightforward and fast to use, works well with my router.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

VCarve is really really good for 2.5D artistic CAM software. You can even do some design work in there that can be hard to do in regular parametric CAD like fancy embellishments and engravings.

Methylethylaldehyde
Oct 23, 2004

BAKA BAKA

NewFatMike posted:

VCarve is really really good for 2.5D artistic CAM software. You can even do some design work in there that can be hard to do in regular parametric CAD like fancy embellishments and engravings.

Vcarve is basically the best thing ever if you're able to cut something with a single tooth vbit cutter or a spot drill. If you need an endmill for whatever you're working on, Fusion 360 is my go-to, but there are tons of other options in the space.

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NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Yeah I mean there’s a point where real machining CAM is necessary, but you can accomplish a lot with VCarve. Their library of post processors is pretty excellent, too.

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