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Lowclock posted:I think that's mostly just stuff with "night vision". I've never used one with it, so maybe it's really good and cool now, but even backing out of my driveway at night I've never had a problem with just what comes off the reverse lights, let alone street lights. If the image is black and white when the sun is down, you can assume some kind of IR illumination is happening.
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Feb 17, 2022 23:07
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Yeah I know, it's not. It gets kinda noisy and lovely looking from it jacking the ISO up or whatever it is (I don't know cameras), but it's still in color and I can see fine.
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Feb 17, 2022 23:18
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Lowclock posted:drat, that's crazy. I really hope that's just some kind of weird device quirk because if they're all like that, I'd call it unacceptable. Hard wired was so close in boot time as to make almost no difference. I'm not even out of my driveway before it's going, so it's not a problem for me. I'm curious how fast CarPlay is booting in to the system.
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Feb 17, 2022 23:58
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Advent Horizon posted:Trailer hitch seems like an obvious location. I looked for cameras but it seems like the best might be DIY for that spot. Lol sorry. I will say as someone that just did this. The Atoto ones have a thicker connector so the hole I had to drill was huge.
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Feb 18, 2022 00:51
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Problem solved! https://ibeamusa.com/product/TE-ISCMB They have cameras with and without LEDs; I’ll get the non-lit to cut down on glare.
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Feb 18, 2022 08:06
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Lowclock posted:drat, that's crazy. I really hope that's just some kind of weird device quirk because if they're all like that, I'd call it unacceptable. I timed my Atoto F7 EX (with wireless Android Auto) and it was 20 seconds to boot and an additional 5 seconds to connect and start playing. So 25 total.
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Feb 18, 2022 15:54
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Huh. From a little googling it looks like other people say its either something around 30 seconds, 2+ minutes when it's messed up, or "instantly" (???), so it may vary a lot? I guess it's not a huge deal since you'll probably just start driving anyways and it will come up eventually, but I definitely did not expect that it might take as long as cold-booting a 10 year old tablet with hosed up flash. I tried just searching for a real video of one connecting, but the algorithm won't allow it and I get nothing but ads. Does the radio at least keep playing or showing your backup camera or whatever while it's connecting?BonoMan posted:I timed my Atoto F7 EX (with wireless Android Auto) and it was 20 seconds to boot and an additional 5 seconds to connect and start playing. So 25 total. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Feb 18, 2022 |
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Feb 18, 2022 16:37
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Lowclock posted:Holy poo poo. How does it possibly take that long? Does it have to cold boot a fresh VM every time it starts or something? I would've probably assumed it's broken. If it's like the wireless CarPlay dongle I have with my Atoto, it uses a BT connection to initiate a Wi-Fi connection, in addition to the head unit and the adapter itself booting up. I'm getting similar times. Lowclock posted:drat, that's crazy. I really hope that's just some kind of weird device quirk because if they're all like that, I'd call it unacceptable. How long does it take you to plug in a cable for CarPlay after you get into the car? How busy are you that 1 minute while you buckle your seatbelt, etc. is an unacceptable time loss for you? BonoMan posted:I don't see why it couldn't. May take some finagling, but I think my atoto backup cam even came with a secondary adhesive mount. Maybe for cases like this? Not sure. Also, a reversing camera in your widow is going to have a little less utility for close parking than one closer to the action, as it were. Less so, in your case, since it's a wagon, and you can place it at the bottom of the window. In my sedan the rear camera in the window wasn't useless, but really just for rear dashcam use, since the deck lid blocked the view of anything less than probably 3-4 feet from the bumper. As BonoMan, my Atoto came with the license plate mount, but also a flat mount with adhesive. The Atoto has a full-sized RCA connector, but the two previous cameras I've installed had a small, maybe 1/4" connector before the RCA to deal with the "big hole" issue. e: f, b everdave posted:I see on AliExpress these new style backup cameras that replace your license plate light with a housing that has the light plus the backup camera and they’re dirt cheap. I don’t know about the 60 series I’ve only had 70/80 series so that doesn’t come up in my search but worth taking a look through Ali. I used one of those style cameras on my mother-in-law's Honda Insight (thankfully, Honda used the same license plate light on about a million models.) It fit and worked fine. Got it from Amazon or eBay, I forget which. Didn't want to wait a month for Ali. BonoMan posted:Lol sorry. That was one thing that annoyed me about it. Mine's on the trunk of a Crown Vic, where the hole can go behind the licens plate, but it still annoyed me to drill a half-inch hole for that plug. BonoMan posted:I timed my Atoto F7 EX (with wireless Android Auto) and it was 20 seconds to boot and an additional 5 seconds to connect and start playing. So 25 total. Same. F7 PE. Lowclock posted:Huh. From a little googling it looks like other people say its either something around 30 seconds, 2+ minutes when it's messed up, or "instantly" (???), so it may vary a lot? I guess it's not a huge deal since you'll probably just start driving anyways and it will come up eventually, but I definitely did not expect that it might take as long as cold-booting a 10 year old tablet with hosed up flash. I tried just searching for a real video of one connecting, but the algorithm won't allow it and I get nothing but ads. Does the radio at least keep playing or showing your backup camera or whatever while it's connecting? Yes, if you had it set to radio when you shut off, the radio comes up pretty quick, and plays while the CarPlay connects. I assume same with BT, but haven't tried that. I haven't had to back up while the CarPlay is connecting, but I'm pretty sure that will come up as well. I'm having issues as noted previously in the thread with CarPlay, but I *think* it's the adapter. Will try to sort that this weekend. Keep in mind, my entire experience with wireless CarPlay has been whit this Chinese Atoto deck and a wireless adapter, so YMMV. It's entirely possible brand-name native wireless CarPlay might come up faster.
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Feb 18, 2022 17:42
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My Kenwood with built-in wireless CarPlay usually takes about 20-30 seconds connect to CarPlay, although occasionally it's faster. Backup camera comes up instantly when in reverse. My Pioneer wired CarPlay deck is usually faster than the Kenwood, but sometimes can take just as long to fully connect.
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Feb 18, 2022 18:17
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Darchangel posted:How long does it take you to plug in a cable for CarPlay after you get into the car? How busy are you that 1 minute while you buckle your seatbelt, etc. is an unacceptable time loss for you?
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Feb 18, 2022 18:41
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My Hyundai’s OEM head unit and most rental cars I’ve been in have similar (and similarly highly variable) dwell times for CarPlay, alongside the cheap no-name CarPlay units I’ve used. The Hyundai with the aftermarket wireless adapter vs a cable is much slower, also has worse voice quality and is slightly laggy. I barely use it.
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Feb 18, 2022 19:45
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One issue I've noted was that the navigation voice doesn't change volume with the radio/iPhone music. It's just set at whatever, adjustable in settings, but apparently an absolute rather than a percentage. I'm going to detach the wireless unit and connect directly and see what happens. There may also be a firmware update for the adapter, but the instructions said not to update if it connected successfully. I'd categorize this at this point as not successful, at least not all the time.
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Feb 18, 2022 22:52
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Darchangel posted:One issue I've noted was that the navigation voice doesn't change volume with the radio/iPhone music. It's just set at whatever, adjustable in settings, but apparently an absolute rather than a percentage. Firstly, if you're on Android, enable developer options and disable absolute volume. On my head unit, it will change volumes on each source individually as long as they are active; for instance turning down the volume while navigation is talking will only lower the navigation volume, not the background music. Individual levels can be adjusted in AA menus too, but most units have different stored volumes for phone, music/media, and notifications/assistant.
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Feb 19, 2022 04:50
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Darchangel posted:If it's like the wireless CarPlay dongle I have with my Atoto, it uses a BT connection to initiate a Wi-Fi connection That's exactly how wireless Android Auto works.
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Feb 19, 2022 21:32
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Wasabi the J posted:Firstly, if you're on Android, enable developer options and disable absolute volume. Nah, Apple CarPlay. Works fine with the Alpine, wired, in my wife’s car. Some oddity of either the head unit or the wireless adapter. Will be investigating further.
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Feb 21, 2022 00:30
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So I have an interesting dilemma: I have an 03 IS300 which I have fitted a 2-din Alpine CDE-W265Bbt to. Head unit has been good to me, with the exception of bluetooth for calling. Early on it would hang and factory reset itself fairly regularly after finishing a bluetooth call. After a while, it stopped doing that, but then the audio from the mic input stopped working. Have tested the mic and tried another working mic, pulled the thing apart to look for any obvious issues and can't see anything, so I've basically exhausted my limited knowledge of electronics repair there. Replacing it would involve spending 2-300 AUD for basically the same thing, likely with shittier preouts. Obvious upgrade solution would be to swap it out with an AA head unit; however the DIN slot in these is mounted wayy down low, as the optional NAV was a separate module mounted up on the dash. Mine wasn't optioned with it, so it just has a little felt "shelf" there that I took out to run the BT Mic cable through. If I just chuck an android or AA unit in there, I'll be taking my eyes way off the road any time I want to look at it, which is not ideal, and if the screen ends up being a cheap TN, I may not even be able to see it at that angle. Alpine works well for everything else. Good crossovers, time alignment, EQ, and as a bonus can be controlled through an Android app, with a preset library. Also 4v preouts, and while aux in is front panel only, I've already looked, and it'd be trivial for me to solder a pair of RCA's or a 3.5mm jack to the board. I have a fair few shielded RCA cables that are missing a plug on one end that I can cut down for this. Currently amping my sub and aftermarket front splits. Rears run off the HU's internal amp which is often just switched off. Plus, it fills the hole and looks better there than the original CD/Tape player. So as I see it, my choices are: - Something like this, mounted on the dash, and shoved in the glove box if I'm parking anywhere particularly iffy, connected to my phone via AA, or using FLACs via a gigantic SD card: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...arch-mainSearch (Have considered using a 7" generic tablet, but for the price of one of those and a decent mount, I can get one of these android auto things ready to go.) - Getting a mate to 3D print a shroud somebody uploaded onto one of those maker sites that fits the factory nav location, and can accommodate a Raspberry Pi touch screen, and using either a Pi 3 I have lying around, or my old Pixel 5 that has a bad screen but otherwise works, if I can get it to actually work, which is apparently a bit dicey on the newer pixels, as they don't support USB C display natively anymore. The pi option is obviously more time consuming, more likely to suck, won't support android auto, or likely give me decent nav. The Pixel option could be cool if it works, as it's got way more grunt than anything you will find in a car usually, has good enough battery life to last probably 3-4 days in low power mode with the radios turned off, and TBH I have no other use for this device since it was replaced by a 6 (Screen repairs run $500 AUD for these). Not sure if I could get the Pixel 5 to host AA, or whether I'd have to use USB tethering to just give a data connection from my actual phone. Either would probably work just as well. Either solution would probably involve - Some sort of USB hub, ideally one that take a USB PD charger and allow me to fast charge my phone while using AA, and connect the DAC and whatever else in the event I get an android device with only one - a Behringer UCA202 USB DAC that I have lying around that works via USB OTG to extract good 2 channel audio from whatever source, connected to the aux in on the Alpine. I ran this in a car once and it didn't pick up any noise that I can remember. The audio hardware on the Pi is notoriously garbage, and the DAC on that android unit is going to be lovely. Also it's fewer things to unplug - a single USB cable and the power cable should do it. Ideally I'd be using spotify (or maybe Tidal, I've been meaning to check that out) via USB, out to the DAC, into the Alpine, which will then split it, EQ it, and send it to the amps. Mostly just wondering if anybody has any other ideas, any experience solving a similar problem, using a pi for this, or any experience with any of these portable suction cup units?
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Mar 1, 2022 05:50
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Any feelings on Jensen equipment? The biggest advantage at the moment is they are actually in stock. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_110CM901MI/Jensen-CM901MIR.html?tp=5684 and or https://www.crutchfield.com/p_110CAR910X/Jensen-CAR910X.html?tp=5684 This is to replace the stock head unit in my LX470, which has a Toyota LC HVAC controls, so a regular Double DIN needs to go in. (the factory unit doesn't fit into the trim of the Toyota as the Lexus HU is about /0.25" bigger in each direction)
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Mar 1, 2022 16:20
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Neither of those are double DIN. They are screens that protrude from a single DIN package. Jensen equipment tends to have power figures that are not at all representative of reality. The stuff generally seems to work if you respect that it is a "15W" widget rather than the "150W" or whatever that is printed in bold on the box.
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Mar 1, 2022 16:55
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PBCrunch posted:Neither of those are double DIN. They are screens that protrude from a single DIN package. double/single is fine, but it just needs to be standard size instead of the fancy Lexus size. single with a stickout just gives me more hidden pockets  Edit: i mean this little guy is kinda cute too: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130SPH10BT/Pioneer-SPH-10BT.html?tp=5684 toplitzin fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Mar 1, 2022 |
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Mar 1, 2022 16:56
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toplitzin posted:
Ohhhh one of those + a cheap older android flagship with a great screen + carplay dongle might be a great solution for cars where a bigger screen would be a hindrance.
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Mar 1, 2022 23:11
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That thing would be much slicker if it had wireless charging built into the phone holder part.
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Mar 2, 2022 00:18
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Finally got around to mounting the android unit in the car, I had to buy an additional wire harness for my Crux steering wheel control adapter because the one I had was specific to Kenwood and a few other brands. I think I purged the extra one that came with it when I moved in 2020. But the steering wheel controls worked perfectly, simple setup. You just push the button on the wheel and then touch the command you want it to do. I could actually map them to anything on the list. I might even map "previous track" to play/pause instead, as I'll use that way more. In the rare instances where I want to go back a track I can always do that on the touchscreen. First boot:  I downloaded and customized a bunch of wallpapers, then installed an app that changes them daily. They're not all Volvo logos but these are.   The Volvo dash adapter uses the stereo side screw holes but it had two slots that put the head unit at max protrusion from the dash. So I had to add a screw hole but I was able to recess the body of the unit into the pocket, and the screen snaps on perfectly flush with the dash face. I can still slip a piece of paper between them but you can't see any mounting hardware or anything like that, I'm pretty happy with it. I still might make some adapter plates that would allow me to mount the screen dead center in that console rather than centered over the pocket, I haven't decided. I should probably just make them and try it, I can always go back to this if I don't like it. I picked the single DIN model because this car has very limited storage pockets and I like using the pocket under the stereo for stuff. In hindsight I probably should have just gone with a double DIN unit like everyone else does. Of course no sooner did I get this installed than I find the model they sell with a smaller screen and physical volume knob. I think I would much rather have had that than this, but  I'm not going to pack this one up and send it back now.
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Mar 3, 2022 03:49
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LloydDobler posted:Of course no sooner did I get this installed than I find the model they sell with a smaller screen and physical volume knob. I think I would much rather have had that than this, but Any chance you have a link handy? It sounds like something my Mercedes would really appreciate.
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Mar 3, 2022 16:24
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https://smile.amazon.com/JOYING-Sin...s%2C290&sr=8-10 Or you can browse their entire set of offerings at their website: https://www.joyingauto.com/ They must have been getting a lot of feedback to add physical buttons and/or a volume knob because they just released several. I'm thinking about doing this same setup for my convertible but in a double din. Also I did re-map my "previous track" button to play/pause and it rules. I need to figure out if there's a way to make the app start playing automatically on power up but this is a great workaround since it doesn't do that currently.
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Mar 4, 2022 18:41
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Which 7" Atoto is the one to get? The linux F7 is the cheapest, A6 a little more than that, and the S8 is $80 more than the A6. Do I just get the cheapest one because any of them will inevitably break and never get warrantied?
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Mar 16, 2022 04:46
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I think the difference is firmware being Android or Linux based but I could be misremembering. I don't trust "screen mirroring" apps ever, and only use Android Auto or Bluetooth. I got the 10" cheapest one and have been satisfied.
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Mar 16, 2022 05:08
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Yerok posted:Which 7" Atoto is the one to get? The linux F7 is the cheapest, A6 a little more than that, and the S8 is $80 more than the A6. Do I just get the cheapest one because any of them will inevitably break and never get warrantied? With regards to warranty support: Atoto Support posted:I am sorry for the problem you met. Don't worry, if there is a quality problem with the product, we will help you arrange an exchange or refund according to the ATOTO warranty policy. Interesting, given that they don't know specifically that I have the AC-44F5 remote (I do.) Seems like they've dealt with this issue before. I pulled the radio out and unplugged the remote last night. It booted fine then @ ~65F, but also had just been on during the drive home. This morning, though, sure enough it booted fine in 45F weather. I'll wait and observe the rest of the week, but it looks like that remote receiver was the problem, and I'll hit them up for the offered new version. Sweet! I really wanted to like this radio. They got back to me next day after posting the support request on their website, so I'd say that they have every intention of honoring the warranty. Everything I've seen so far in terms of the website, support, documentation, etc. says to me that they are striving to be a cut above what we in the US picture a "Chinese company" to be. Certainly the reviews I read on Amazon for the F7 were encouraging. FWIW, I have a F7 8" "Professional Edition". Once the firmware on the head unit and the wireless CarPlay adapter were updated, it's worked very well aside from the powering up issue, which hopefully has been resolved.
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Mar 16, 2022 19:28
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I got what I'm pretty sure is the only trim level of the 7" F7. We'll see how it likes the 7.3 rattling.
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Mar 17, 2022 01:21
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Update: my F7 has fired up properly all week. Makes me happy. I'll be contacting Atoto support to let them know, and to go ahead and send the AC-44F8 remote. Only issue there is that the F5 remote just plugged into a dedicated 3.5mm port. The F8 is a universal remote designed to work via the connections intended for OEM steering wheel controls, so I'll have to do some harness unwrapping and more soldering. It looks and operates just like the F5, but is programmable in the settings just like factory steering wheel controls would be, which is nice. I do like the rotary volume control on them.
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Mar 18, 2022 19:10
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Hey not sure if it’s a truly good deal but the ATOTO is on sale with a code for $175 ATOTO A6 PF Double-DIN 7" Android Car Stereo w/ in-Dash Navigation, Dual BT, Wi-Fi: https://slickdeals.net/f/15662455-a...e-s-h-at-amazon
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Mar 19, 2022 00:18
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I got the 7" F7 into the super duty dash today. I knew there was some plastic removal required to go from factory 1.5ish DIN to double but with this specific head unit it's basically impossible to get a non friction fit. I ended up just pulling the dash piece and mounting the head unit to that and installing it onto the rest of the dash. Probably easier to remove that part of the dash if necessary than to find my radio tools to release the brackets from a cage anyway. I routed the permanently attached female usb for carplay/android auto into the CD/pack of smokes compartment right under the radio. I am pleasantly surprised by the general build quality, the preamp is way better than the cheapo mechless units I have used in the past, and the internal mic is even good enough that it can pick up what John Prine song I yell at it to play over the diesel rattle.
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Mar 19, 2022 03:10
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I'm on the cusp of buying a used car without a backup camera that lacks any sort of internal screen to hook one up to. Is there a setup out there that could either send the video to my phone or with its own little screen that I could plop on the dash? Not looking to get a new head unit or anything fancy like that, just a solution to improve rear visibility. If it worked to supplement the rear vision while in forward motion too that would be an added plus.
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Mar 19, 2022 05:33
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AlmightyPants posted:I'm on the cusp of buying a used car without a backup camera that lacks any sort of internal screen to hook one up to. Is there a setup out there that could either send the video to my phone or with its own little screen that I could plop on the dash? Not looking to get a new head unit or anything fancy like that, just a solution to improve rear visibility. If it worked to supplement the rear vision while in forward motion too that would be an added plus. There are a ton of those, both that have dedicated screens to clip on a dashboard, and ones that go to your phone.
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Mar 19, 2022 06:32
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They even make wireless ones search wireless backup camera on eBay tons with screens for $100ish
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Mar 19, 2022 15:32
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Hell, they've got ones that'll replace your rear-view mirror.
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Mar 20, 2022 23:01
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I'm almost done with my laptop + tablet head unit, and I ran into the weirdest drat thing. It turns out if you turn on the power to my headless laptop while something on the HDMI port is kind of half-initialized, it freaks it out so badly that it will corrupt the BIOS, or at least make it think it has. It then has to be power cycled like 10 times to recover itself, if you're lucky. I thought I completely broke the drat thing but all I had to end up doing was make sure the HDMI audio extractor I'm using turns on a little bit before the laptop does. Right now from key-on to playing music is about 15 seconds, but it would be 13 if I didn't have to wait for the HDMI thing to come up fully first. I turned an ESP32 board and some buttons into a controller, but I think I'm only going to keep volume control. Swiping an album cover that is pretty big, in my peripheral vision, and inches from the steering wheel feels like it takes less concentration than reaching for a discrete button. It's a lot more work to set up convolvers and time alignment for 5 channels than it is for 1, but it sounds great and I can definitely tell the difference.
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Mar 21, 2022 03:48
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Any specific recommendations (I guess is a better question) for an aftermarket rear view camera set up?
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Mar 21, 2022 04:08
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Well I don't know if the experiment is over or not, I'm pretty mad though. Twice since I got my Joying android head unit, it powered up as a full reboot as if it had lost all power. And although it eventually recovered, the music app had to reload the music library, so it took several minutes before I could play music. Other than that it had been working fine, until today. I got in the car and it rebooted again, so I figured I was in for the long wait again. But when it got to the UI it had fully hard reset itself. All the apps and settings I had done, all the EQ settings, all my playlists, playlist backups, custom button locations and user settings, gone. I spent HOURS setting this thing up. And I did it at my desk where I had time to edit files and then simply pass them to the head unit. I could cross check things and make sure it was all how I wanted it. And even though I had backed up all the playlists that I had painstakingly edited because for some reason on android they use forward slashes instead of backslashes for the file system, and poo poo like that, it deleted the folder where the backup was because it was related to the music app. I'm going to dig around a little more because as much energy as I put in to editing these I can't believe I put the only copy onto the hard drive without leaving a backup on my main PC. This loving sucks. And if I can expect it to happen every couple of months, then I absolutely can't recommend this chinese garbage, even if the build quality appears great and they charge premium prices for it. I'll probably go through and set it up one more time, but if this ever happens again (and I'm sure it will) this thing is going right in the trash. Maaaaaybe I'll pull it out and check the wiring, maybe I have a weak crimp or the factory plug has a weak crimp. Maybe the voltage is dipping too low when the car starts because I need a new battery, it is the battery that came with the car after all. Maybe I have stockholm syndrome and this head unit is gaslighting me into thinking it's my fault because I've generally had good luck with electronics. Sigh.
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Apr 10, 2022 09:07
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LloydDobler posted:I got in the car and it rebooted again, so I figured I was in for the long wait again. But when it got to the UI it had fully hard reset itself. All the apps and settings I had done, all the EQ settings, all my playlists, playlist backups, custom button locations and user settings, gone.
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Apr 12, 2022 20:02
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Yep. Even the base settings like using 24 hour time and time zone were reset. The SD card is recognized and loaded. I did a basic reinstall of the apps and partially set them up and I'm noticing that it boots a lot faster now, right into where it was when I shut the car off. I wonder if I had something corrupted or conflicting that needed to be flushed. That or it did a forced update. It kept the steering wheel control button assignments for some reason, and fortunately the SD card was untouched and lost no data which has 100% of the music, and playlists on it, so I got those back. In reality it only took me about 20 minutes to set it up again, which wasn't great but not enough to drive me to pull it out. It gets one more chance.
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Apr 12, 2022 20:24
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