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spankmeister posted:But that's a British car, that doesn't count. Nah it's the power train so it's a Feeeerd.  Edit: and if it was any newer, it would be a Merc
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Feb 16, 2022 22:52
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Super Rad posted:How important is it actually to have a car's ECM updated after having replacement parts installed? I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent with <60k miles, a few months ago a knock sensor went bad and I had it replaced at a local shop and when I picked the car up the dude at the counter mentioned I should take it to a dealership for an ECM update. I called Hyundai customer support to find a local dealership and the guy on the line found one for me but also mentioned that there's nothing in his literature that suggests an ECM update is necessary after a knock sensor replacement. I opted to believe him and never had it performed. There are times where some form of calibration / learn process is required when replacing a part, but that is not the same as "reflash the entire ECM". Any mechanic worth paying will have scan tools capable of initiating the learning process. Of the parts you've mentioned, a knock sensor shouldn't need any form of relearn (it's literally a microphone) and a throttle body probably doesn't but might. But again, that'd be something far simpler than a full reflash. If there is something defective enough in the software on your ECM to require a full reflash, then either you'll find out by something breaking like KillHour's Fine British Conveyance, or by getting a recall notification. Otherwise what's probably happening is your mechanic's scan tool is just smart enough to see what version your ECM is running, and knows that it's not the latest, so it alerts every time he hooks up to it.
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Feb 16, 2022 23:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:There are times where some form of calibration / learn process is required when replacing a part, but that is not the same as "reflash the entire ECM". Any mechanic worth paying will have scan tools capable of initiating the learning process. Thank you! I'll endeavor to have the ECM updated at some point but it's good to know it's unlikely that the repairs performed have anything to do with it. The fact that the mechanic first mentioned it after the knock sensor replacement makes a lot of sense if it's just an alert they're seeing on the diagnostic tool. What's annoying is this dealership is almost half an hour away and they said it could take 1-2 days for them to get to the update, my wife doesn't drive and we only have one car, so it would be a real bitch to work out, not to mention if the dealership is that ridiculously overbooked it might be better for my blood pressure to find a different location or at least a better point in time.
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Feb 17, 2022 00:37
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space chandeliers posted:I pulled my injectors and ended up breaking off one of the two nylon spacers (green/tan rings) on one of them while trying to clean off the gunk before dropping them off for servicing. I'm having trouble finding a replacement with the same dimensions. Their purpose isn't clear to me. The fuel rail retaining clip sits in the upper groove cut into the injector, above the washers--they don't seem to support it. I'd definitely be checking carefully for any leaks, preferrably before fully cranking.
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Feb 17, 2022 01:29
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KillHour posted:This doesn't change the advice but my Aston actually had a problem where the programming on the ECU caused some O2 sensor to actually burn out or some poo poo. I swear, the inventive ways car companies find to break poo poo is impressive. Some parts that produce data include recommended updates as the control parameters have been changed along with the part’s specs. I have found this common with O2 sensor jobs, but mostly for sensors triggering particular codes rather than wearing out. That said, if your random thingamabobber just wore out, the replacement part may still be updated even if that’s not why you’re buying it. Dealer TSBs should say whether update is required. I can almost guarantee the appointment bookers and service advisors will not know which cases require this, and half the techs will run an update if they find one available whether it is applicable or not. Also, we would never do an update for free at any dealer in my group, or any one I’ve worked at previously.
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Feb 17, 2022 13:58
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mr.belowaverage posted:Some parts that produce data include recommended updates as the control parameters have been changed along with the part’s specs. I have found this common with O2 sensor jobs, but mostly for sensors triggering particular codes rather than wearing out. That said, if your random thingamabobber just wore out, the replacement part may still be updated even if that’s not why you’re buying it. Dealer TSBs should say whether update is required. I can almost guarantee the appointment bookers and service advisors will not know which cases require this, and half the techs will run an update if they find one available whether it is applicable or not. They handled it under warranty and did whatever ECU update was recommended. Issue hasn't come back so 
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Feb 17, 2022 16:03
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GOD IS BED posted:I'd definitely be checking carefully for any leaks, preferrably before fully cranking. If those injectors came from something with direct injection, the system doesn't reach anything close to operating pressure unless the engine is running. And you don't want to be anywhere near a direct injection system if there is a leak.
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Feb 17, 2022 16:26
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PBCrunch posted:
It's not an engine with DI for sure, it's an Isuzu 6VD1 out of a 94 Trooper. Are you concerned about leakage because of the accumulated gunk, the broken spacer, or both? I'm also replacing the fuel pressure regulator and hoses for what it's worth. Most of the gunk I attributed to leaking valve covers/seals, a known issue with this engine and the main reason I'm messing with this stuff. The covers, valley, and everything else directly around/under them are caked with it.
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Feb 17, 2022 20:16
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I've got a torn power steering rack boot, I'm going to replace it but I want to try to make sure everything covered is clean before I put the new boot on. Would it be okay to use brake cleaner here, carb cleaner, something else? That's no giant mud splotches or anything, just for peace of mind I'd prefer to give it a once-over.
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Feb 17, 2022 21:53
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I have a set of wheels I am going to paint. I have sand blasted them and will paint them when we get a nice day here in Nebraska. I have a little spray paint tent I will use to keep the fumes away from my family. I am planning on using a self-etching primer, filler primer, Rustoleum wheel paint, and a clear coat. The safe bet is probably Rustoleum wheel clear coat, but I would like the improved durability of a two-part paint like Spraymax. So the question is: can I use a two-part clear over the Rustoleum wheel paint*? Will the durability advantage of a two-part clear still apply even if the base coat is a comparatively weak one-part paint? *Rustoleum says its wheel paint is "acrylic". Spraymax says its two-component clear coat is Two-component acrylic resins with aliphatic isocyanates activator.
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Feb 17, 2022 22:48
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Mixing paint types is VERY dicey. While it can be done even if they are technically incompatible the base coat needs to be way way fully cured. For spray paint we're talking like a month or more if I go by memory from what some old painters have told me. If you want to go this route I'd suggest doing testing first on a sheet of scrap metal or whatever. Why aren't you buying all of your paint (including primer) from the same place/part of the same system? You're guaranteed better results and actual compatibility. The DuPont stuff I've painted with specifically calls this out, including primer. Have I cheated with some spray bomb primer over spots as I work on stuff? Sure. But it's definitely cured and covered with in-system primer and plenty of time to see if there are curing problems (because you have to wait to block sand) before moving on to color/clear coats.
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Feb 17, 2022 23:07
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Honest answer: price. I bought a bunch of Rustoleum spray cans when the local Home Depot was clearing out all of the weird automotive specialty paints (rusty metal primer, bedliner, wheel paint, caliper paint, vinyl paint, that kind of stuff). Most of the cans were ~$2 each. It looks like a 2K paint from Eastwood in a spray can is about $30. I'll probably just use a clear that matches the wheel paint I already have. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Feb 17, 2022 |
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Feb 17, 2022 23:44
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PBCrunch posted:Honest answer: price. Totally makes sense if you've got the materials on hand. And yes, in that case you want to use rustoleum clear. Just stick inside of the system. I'm sure it will come out just fine with all rustoleum.
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Feb 18, 2022 00:07
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Is it worth it to get hail damage repaired? The dents aren’t very deep, but they are numerous. I wasn’t going to bother but my husband keeps griping about how the car is too small for the car seat and we might want to trade it in for something more spacious. Bleh I’m just really bummed because it looks like hail damage really tanks the value of the car.
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Feb 18, 2022 01:06
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Yes, and it should be covered under the comprehensive section of your insurance.Fender Anarchist posted:Ok guess I need help saving me from my own stupidity. 07 Crown Vic PI, 165k miles. For the last year or so I've had an intermittent p0351 that was too intermittent to track down, but jiggling the harness would get it working again for a while. Well, last week I had to jiggle harder than usual... and the car shut off. And after restarting, instead of the one code, I had loving 10. The stuff related to the codes you mentioned runs through two different sections of the harness going from what I dug up on CVN - I'd bet on a ground down there being knocked loose. I don't think there's a single harness that you could have knocked loose doing that short of unplugging it from the PCM. I'm sure you know Crown Vics are notorious for bad grounds... P71s in particular after the upfitters have their way with them (going through random electrical shenanigans on my 07 as well, but it's been mostly related to lights and fuses for said lights blowing). If you have a library card, you might see if they have an online portal to a decent repair manual; mine has Mitchell access, but it's the neutered version that doesn't have diagrams/schematics. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Feb 18, 2022 |
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Feb 18, 2022 01:27
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2016 Honda Civic, though I dunno if it's relevant. A couple months back I posted about buying winter tires. That worked out great, and I have a set of Michelin's on my OEM steel wheels. My situation now, as winter is ending in a month or so, is that I'm going to need to get all-season tires for the spring, summer and fall. My question is, does it make more sense financially to buy a second set of wheels to go with the second set of tires or just swap the tires on my current wheels? I don't know what goes into seasonal wheel swapping and the like. It seems like the tire swap only is cheaper first, but I don't know if it would also be cheaper long term.
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Feb 18, 2022 18:30
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Mount and balance service has gotten expensive. Used wheels are cheap, especially wheels that you only plan on running in the winter. If your car has modern "big" wheels, you can often times buy cheaper snow tires for a smaller wheel size that still fits. Check on your bolt pattern and center bore. You can generally get away with wheels with a center bore larger than that of your car (five-lug Nissan wheels on a Toyota). The other way won't work without spacers or machine work. You might also want to do some looking around to find out what sizes of wheels will fit over your front brakes (probably 16"). If you look around on Facebook Marketplace (yuck) you can probably find a set of wheels that will work for $100-200. A single mount and balance service for four wheels is going to cost $60 minimum. That $100-200 might get you some factory alloys that look better than your steelies. 2016 Honda Civic bolt pattern: 5x114.3 (4.5"). This is a very common pattern. The center bore is 64.1mm. Pretty much all Honda five-lug wheels (possible exception: rebadged Isuzu models) have this center bore.
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Feb 18, 2022 18:47
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mentholmoose posted:2016 Honda Civic, though I dunno if it's relevant. I don’t really have a quick answer on the rims question (there’s a lot about it that really depends on your specific situation, the cost of doing a tire swap on rims vs a simple wheel swap, whether it’s cheaper to size up or down for a specific tire kind, etc) but I can tell you that if you already have a set of real winter tires and are committed to doing the swap every year then you should definitely get yourself some real summer tires instead of all-seasons
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Feb 18, 2022 18:52
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mentholmoose posted:2016 Honda Civic, though I dunno if it's relevant. Firstly, it's definitely worth it to have a second set of wheels. Wheel swapping is easy enough to do yourself if you have a jack, and where I live at least it's fast and cheap to pay someone else to do it since almost everyone swap wheels twice a year. There's people who make a business out of setting up tent shops in supermarket parking lots that do it on the fly without an appointment during season. Secondly, (like comboomer said) if you have dedicated winter tires it is my strong opinion that all-seasons is a suboptimal choice for the other set. Real summer tires will outperform all-seasons in every way wet or dry except when it's cold enough that you're gonna want the winter tires on anyway.
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Feb 18, 2022 19:09
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What are some good car podcasts? The smoking tire is alright in small doses when they have food guests on
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Feb 18, 2022 19:11
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Thanks for the info guys. If I do go for a second set of wheels - which I am leaning toward - I'm probably going to buy a set from Tire Rack and have them installed by a local shop. Seems like it'll be easy to get another set of 16" wheels with the correct bolt pattern like the ones I have now.Invalido posted:Secondly, (like comboomer said) if you have dedicated winter tires it is my strong opinion that all-seasons is a suboptimal choice for the other set. Real summer tires will outperform all-seasons in every way wet or dry except when it's cold enough that you're gonna want the winter tires on anyway. I had considered summer tires but gave up looking when I saw what the tread life was like for most of them. I do close to 25000 miles a year, mostly highway driving, and if I can get a bit less performance but close to twice the tread life (at least from what I'm reading) that's a trade-off I'm willing to make.
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Feb 18, 2022 19:52
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If you're going for Tire Rack, I just look at the highest rated tires for your car. There are a lot of good choices nowadays, although subject to supply chain issues.
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Feb 18, 2022 20:26
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mentholmoose posted:I had considered summer tires but gave up looking when I saw what the tread life was like for most of them. I do close to 25000 miles a year, mostly highway driving, and if I can get a bit less performance but close to twice the tread life (at least from what I'm reading) that's a trade-off I'm willing to make. Huh, never even thought about that. My car rolls about a fifth yours it would seem. Tread life isn't a major concern for me, summer tires will usually last until I change cars or they start to show signs of dry rot or something. All I know is that the all-seasons I've had the displeasure to drive on were abysmally bad compared to what I'm used to. Like breaking traction on asphalt during firm but measured braking without snow or ice on the ground, that's just unacceptable IMO. I get that your priorities are different from mine and that's cool. If you've never experienced driving on summer tires I still think you should consider giving it a go just once as an experiment. Your priorities might just change.
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Feb 18, 2022 20:34
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There are really no standards for treadwear - they're up to the manufacturer to pick a number. So it's hard to compare except between tires from the same manufacturer, and 250 isn't necessarily half the tread life of 500. Also keep in mind that when you're not on a set of tires year round, they last longer to begin with. KillHour fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Feb 18, 2022 |
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Feb 18, 2022 20:56
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Invalido posted:Huh, never even thought about that. My car rolls about a fifth yours it would seem. Tread life isn't a major concern for me, summer tires will usually last until I change cars or they start to show signs of dry rot or something. All I know is that the all-seasons I've had the displeasure to drive on were abysmally bad compared to what I'm used to. Like breaking traction on asphalt during firm but measured braking without snow or ice on the ground, that's just unacceptable IMO. I get that your priorities are different from mine and that's cool. If you've never experienced driving on summer tires I still think you should consider giving it a go just once as an experiment. Your priorities might just change. Sounds like you drove on some crappy ones. There are lots of fine choices out there. Edit: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...&sortCode=45350 Heck some of these are snow peak rated (well some are actual snow tires so ignore those) Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Feb 18, 2022 |
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Feb 18, 2022 20:57
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Charles posted:Sounds like you drove on some crappy ones. There are lots of fine choices out there. We talked about this earlier in the thread (or maybe it was the car buying thread) but the 3PMSF thing isn't actually all that meaningful. It's a minimum legal requirement and it's honestly kind of a poo poo one. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=125 quote:Testing measures a tire's acceleration traction on medium-packed snow only. Braking and turning on snow, along with ice traction are not components of the test.
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Feb 18, 2022 21:02
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You're thinking of M+S Edit: well I see what you mean. That's why I'd evaluate it based on customer reviews. I'd say my CrossClimate2s are fine on most snow
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Feb 18, 2022 21:04
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Charles posted:You're thinking of M+S I literally provided a link.
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Feb 18, 2022 21:05
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Yeah I haven't really had any issues with the all-seasons I had before, and they weren't high end tires. If I go for one of the highest rated ones there (probably one of the two top Continental options because they have significant mileage warranties on the tread) then I'm certain it's going to be better than what I had before. If you guys do know off-hand of a summer tire with more durable tread I'm all ears, but I don't really consider it much of a priority. If I ever get a job where I drive less (or move somewhere warmer than a place that still gets snow in April) I'll definitely look into summer tires instead. e: Definitely going to get a second set of wheels though, thank you for the advice.
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Feb 18, 2022 21:36
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mentholmoose posted:Yeah I haven't really had any issues with the all-seasons I had before, and they weren't high end tires. If I go for one of the highest rated ones there (probably one of the two top Continental options because they have significant mileage warranties on the tread) then I'm certain it's going to be better than what I had before. If you guys do know off-hand of a summer tire with more durable tread I'm all ears, but I don't really consider it much of a priority. If I ever get a job where I drive less (or move somewhere warmer than a place that still gets snow in April) I'll definitely look into summer tires instead. Low rolling resistance tires are going to save you more on gas than the tires themselves would ever cost, and they tend to have higher tread life anyways. They come in both summer and all season guise. All of that is at the expense of grip though, so don't expect to brake like an F1 car.
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Feb 18, 2022 22:05
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Dumb question but I can't seem to put the right words into Google. When I unlock my car (21 Sonata), at least when I'm getting in to go somewhere for the first time that day, I hear some sort of electric motor sound coming from the front of the car but I can't figure out what it is. Is there some standard newer car feature I don't know about? Sorry I don't have more details.
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Feb 18, 2022 23:49
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Automatic running boards or folding mirrors? Maybe the fuel pump priming?
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Feb 18, 2022 23:58
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A lot of newer cars prime the fuel pump when you unlock them.
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Feb 19, 2022 00:04
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I'm pretty sure a new Sonata does have direct injection, so I would not be surprised at all to find out it had some extra business going on to get that high pressure pump primed and ready to deliver gasoline at thousands of psi.
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Feb 19, 2022 00:40
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carry on then posted:Dumb question but I can't seem to put the right words into Google. When I unlock my car (21 Sonata), at least when I'm getting in to go somewhere for the first time that day, I hear some sort of electric motor sound coming from the front of the car but I can't figure out what it is. Is there some standard newer car feature I don't know about? Sorry I don't have more details. I have an electric pressure booster for my brakes on my Kia and I can hear it like that and if I push the brake pedal down and release it while the car is off. This maybe only applies if it's an electric or hybrid but I don't know if new gas cars might have similar too.
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Feb 19, 2022 01:42
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Head Bee Guy posted:What are some good car podcasts? The smoking tire is alright in small doses when they have food guests on Dinner with Racers is a must. Chris Harris has his own with Collecting Cars. The Carmudgeon Show with Jason Camissa is also very good (although, he has a polarizing personality).
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Feb 19, 2022 01:44
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STR posted:A lot of newer cars prime the fuel pump when you unlock them. It's this.
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Feb 19, 2022 04:16
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STR posted:The stuff related to the codes you mentioned runs through two different sections of the harness going from what I dug up on CVN - I'd bet on a ground down there being knocked loose. I don't think there's a single harness that you could have knocked loose doing that short of unplugging it from the PCM. I'll have to summon up the mental energy to go out and start checking ground continuity tomorrow, I guess. *Really* hope it's something that straightforward. I actually didn't know that about em, I've been out of the deep-dive car repair knowledge game for a while, guess I'm paying for it now lmao. I know the shocks are worn out but I'm not gonna throw money at em til I can for sure get it running smooth again. Also once I fix this new issue I guess I ought to go and track down the original issue with that ignition circuit. I know in the past that coil has been replaced when the spark plug launched out and broke the coil. Since then the misfire has been SUPER intermittent but always cylinder 1, even after swapping plugs/coils to a different cylinder, so maybe that launch-out damaged the harness and it's been getting progressively worse ever since.
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Feb 19, 2022 05:39
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2004 VW Passat 1.8t. Steering is wonky. Car seems to pull left or right (though mostly right) on smooth bumps and the steering doesn't seem to want to self-center. Slow leak near the rack&pinion. Tire wear looks quite even. Any ideas what that could be? If it's just the rack&pinion that would be great.
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Feb 19, 2022 06:06
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My buddy has a 2011 GMC Acadia that I'm pretty sure has never had any suspension work done and is at ~100k miles. It's been feeling sketch while driving so he wants to replace what's busted as cheap as possible. I'd go OEM, KYB, or Bilstein but he doesn't want to spend that much unless necessary. Is there any difference between all the generic brands that appear on Parts Geek or the usual auto stores? Or any recommended manufacturer that's cheaper than the ones I listed? The cheapest ones I've seen are all from places I've never heard of - TRQ, Detroit Axle, etc. It'd be nice to get one that doesn't require a spring compressor but it's not the end of the world if that's the better option.
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Feb 19, 2022 08:57
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