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I figured they were talking about a wheel's center cap, like these things: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2835548050...7CMake%3AToyota And yeah, just measure the hole if this is what you were referring, Krime.
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Feb 13, 2022 05:36
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STR posted:Are we talking a literal hub cap (covers the wheel bearing on a car that has the bearings in the rotor - not really a thing since the 70s-80s, but sometimes called a bearing cap), a cop-style cap that just covers the lugnuts and center of the wheel, or what most people refer to as a hubcap/wheel cover? think he meant a center cap and i'd like to know too
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Feb 13, 2022 06:15
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GOD IS BED posted:I figured they were talking about a wheel's center cap, like these things: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2835548050...7CMake%3AToyota  i found this chart at that link
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Feb 13, 2022 06:17
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Yeah just the little wheel center cap. Not a full hub cap. These are 20" wheels. Thanks for the chart
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Feb 13, 2022 06:43
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Speaking of things on wheels has anybody seen those discs people have attached to their wheels? Usually just one set? WTF are they? They look too high up to be useful as curb feelers. Wish I had pics.
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Feb 13, 2022 07:05
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I guess this is probably impossible to diagnose without more information, but my car just broke down and I'm waiting for a tow truck so 🤷♂️ Last week or so, just a quick quarter mile drive to the gas station and at one point my clutch pedal got stuck like half way engaged. I was at a red light, it turns green, clutch in, shift into first, clutch out and yea it just only came back up half way No funny sounds or smells. I was able to just put my foot under the pedal and "pull" it back out. No issues since. Put 350 miles on it Friday without issue. Now I'm making the 350 mile journey home. 40 miles to go, get off the highway and the pedal just felt off. Now only about 30 miles to go and as I'm taking a corner the pedal just got fully stuck to the floor. I can get down there and pull it back out with my hand, but every time now it just stays fully depressed. Any guess if it's the just the pedal or like, actually the clutch / transmission? Sitting here on the side of the road, I cannot shift it into first but it'll go into all the other gears no problem if I press the pedal down... (Edit: can't start the car, it just tells me to press the clutch pedal lol) I've had this Focus RS for a year and it's been nothing but problems. Selling this piece of poo poo as fast as I can. No idea what to replace it with though. Sigh. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Feb 13, 2022 |
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Feb 13, 2022 23:17
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Sab669 posted:I guess this is probably impossible to diagnose without more information, but my car just broke down and I'm waiting for a tow truck so 🤷♂️ Replace it with a Celica GT-Four, perhaps buy the one I have  I have had the issue exactly as you described, but in my case it was in a Toyota Land Cruiser from 1994, making it make much more sense as to why. The master/main clutch cylinder is actuated by this assembly inside, with an specific o-ring in my case. 25+ years just broke it down being soaked in brake fluid that whole time, even though the truck only has 80k~ miles. The ring was gone enough that the metal portion of the assembly itself would catch on the cylinder walls, making it stick. I'd have to put my foot underneath to release.  A bit difficult to see, but all the metal is supposed to be black, not silver. That chewed up ring plus the silvered metal means it had been rubbing for a while, suddenly it was too much. Not sure how many miles your RS has on it, but assume it's clutch works the same as this, your symptoms sound very much identical.
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Feb 13, 2022 23:28
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Only has 56k miles lol. #JustFordThings
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Feb 13, 2022 23:31
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So they can't make a car DCT that doesn't grenade nor a manual transmission. Seems the F-150 is one of the only things Ford can do right, and the GT + Mustang GT.
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Feb 13, 2022 23:58
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simplefish posted:What's your local chain auto parts store? I shop online, the shop(s) in my town are super expensive and have a lovely selection. There are a bunch of online shops that all carry the specific color codes I need, it's just that I'm a little blinded by choice at the moment. The cheapest ones van be had for less than 20 but there are entire kits (with cleaner and what not) for 40. I guess that's not wasted money considering I could touch up one or two other spots as well.
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Feb 14, 2022 01:23
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I second the motion to get some of that door edge guard material and put it on after your touch-up paint has cured. If you're going to keep parking in that spot, the chances of it happening again are pretty good.
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Feb 14, 2022 15:48
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Sab669 posted:Clutch poo poo with my Focus RS COOL my mechanic just called back. Leaking fluid a lot, $1500-$2000 to fix it, mostly due to labor.
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Feb 14, 2022 22:54
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Sab669 posted:Only has 56k miles lol. #JustFordThings Built Ford Rough
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Feb 14, 2022 23:02
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Sab669 posted:COOL my mechanic just called back. Leaking fluid a lot, $1500-$2000 to fix it, mostly due to labor. Rip your master cylinder
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Feb 14, 2022 23:02
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KakerMix posted:Rip your master cylinder literally rip it out and shift by rev matching.
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Feb 14, 2022 23:11
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KakerMix posted:Rip your master cylinder With that much labor I'm going with either it's the cylinder in the bellhousing, or Ford has gone the way of treating "clutch hydraulic system" as a single part that can't be serviced individually.
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Feb 14, 2022 23:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:With that much labor I'm going with either it's the cylinder in the bellhousing, or Ford has gone the way of treating "clutch hydraulic system" as a single part that can't be serviced individually. Yea they said the bell housing was covered. I also posted on the RS forum and got lots of other people citing the same issues 
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Feb 14, 2022 23:44
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Cripes they’re still doing that? Same thing happened on my 98 Ranger and it was about that much. Same thing happened on my Tacoma and it was under $200 because the slave cylinder is on the outside.
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Feb 15, 2022 06:13
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A bit of a cross-post / question regarding my ‘65 Dart. I started wire-wheeling the interior floor to see that there aren’t any nasty surprises. Getting bare to bare metal is a bit hard in all places that aren’t already compromised by surface rust or screws being drilled into the floor etc because of what I figure must be a primer. It’s yellowy-looking stuff that takes quite a bit of effort for the braided angle grinder wire wheel to get through. Being that the metal seems perfectly good once I get through and that it seems to have a very strong bond to the metal, am I wrong for being practical (lazy?) and thinking that it’s better to leave it alone. It’s done a good job so far, and perhaps will do a better job than what I’ll apply instead of it under less ideal conditions?
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Feb 15, 2022 19:32
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Lots of cars have the (dumb) clutch slave cylinder inside the bell housing design now. Get your clutch done and the flywheel resurfaced while you're in there.
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Feb 15, 2022 20:31
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Told my mechanic to go ahead and break it down to figure out specifically what needs replacing. If it's the master cylinder... Ford's advising "into March" for a lead time. I can't find one on the half dozen car part websites I've thought to check, either. Everything else is more or less available though, so 🤞 e; may have found one from NAPA actually Sab669 fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 15, 2022 |
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Feb 15, 2022 20:48
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Cripes they’re still doing that? Same thing happened on my 98 Ranger and it was about that much. Same thing happened on my Tacoma and it was under $200 because the slave cylinder is on the outside. I'm sure it's a parts-reduction win for the manufacturer. Instead of having an external cylinder, a clutch fork, and a throwout bearing, they can put all of it into one component that wraps around the input shaft. GM seems to be able to make the concentric slave reasonably reliable - or at least I don't hear nearly as much bitching about leaking clutch hydraulics on those products as I do on Fords.
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Feb 15, 2022 21:13
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PBCrunch posted:Lots of cars have the (dumb) clutch slave cylinder inside the bell housing design now. Get your clutch done and the flywheel resurfaced while you're in there. Rear main seal and pilot bushing too. I'm not looking forward to having to get the clutch done on my Corolla, as its apparently a "remove engine and transmission assembly from below the car" operation. But I guess once I'm there.......... If I'm lucky though, based on my (completely different vehicle produced in a different century) experience with my old Mazda, I've probably got another 40ish thousand km to go before that needs to be done.
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Feb 15, 2022 21:37
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I pulled my injectors and ended up breaking off one of the two nylon spacers (green/tan rings) on one of them while trying to clean off the gunk before dropping them off for servicing. I'm having trouble finding a replacement with the same dimensions. Their purpose isn't clear to me. The fuel rail retaining clip sits in the upper groove cut into the injector, above the washers--they don't seem to support it. A little hard to see because of the crud, but in the second pic of the rail/manifold (specifically, the right most injector), you can see that these rings don't make contact with anything. I'm thinking of just installing that one as is, am I at great risk here?  
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Feb 16, 2022 02:15
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MrOnBicycle posted:A bit of a cross-post / question regarding my ‘65 Dart. I started wire-wheeling the interior floor to see that there aren’t any nasty surprises. Getting bare to bare metal is a bit hard in all places that aren’t already compromised by surface rust or screws being drilled into the floor etc because of what I figure must be a primer. It’s yellowy-looking stuff that takes quite a bit of effort for the braided angle grinder wire wheel to get through. The yellow stuff may be old adhesive/sound deadener and that poo poo has fossilized after 7-years. Just be sure the metal is solid & you're good to go.
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Feb 16, 2022 03:16
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2000 Toyota Sienna minivan. I need to replace my rear axle support bushings. They are totally gone. Do I use Mevotech for $45 or $95 from the dealer? I need two of them.
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Feb 16, 2022 04:41
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Ok guess I need help saving me from my own stupidity. 07 Crown Vic PI, 165k miles. For the last year or so I've had an intermittent p0351 that was too intermittent to track down, but jiggling the harness would get it working again for a while. Well, last week I had to jiggle harder than usual... and the car shut off. And after restarting, instead of the one code, I had loving 10. p0135, p0141, p0155,p0161 - all 4 o2 sensor circuits p0351 - Ignition coil A circuit malfunction - this was what i had before p0403 - EGR circuit malfunction p0443 - Evap purge circuit malfunction p0743 - Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit electrical p0755 - shift solenoid B malfunction p0962 - trans pressure control solenoid circuit low So CLEARLY I jiggled some loving connector loose and hosed up a bunch of poo poo (I say, praying I didn't fry some ECU circuits instead). I limped the car home about a mile, engine almost stalling every time I left a stop (boy I hope that didn't smoke the trans!) and I've since unplugged and reseated all the big harness connectors under the hood, no dice so far. Is there something buried farther down, say, the trans tunnel? really wishing I'd bought a wiring manual at some point, now I'm afraid to spend the money in case I've hosed this car over entirely. I was waiting for that goddamn ignition problem to get worse so I could actually trace it, and in the course of a day it got bad enough that driving home was untenable (windows were fogging up without defrost cause the car disables a/c when it's misfiring), and then trying to fix that caused... all this. Shoulda just taken it to a loving shop instead of being an arrogant bitch.
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Feb 16, 2022 07:27
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PainterofCrap posted:The yellow stuff may be old adhesive/sound deadener and that poo poo has fossilized after 7-years. Just be sure the metal is solid & you're good to go. Ah, yes it could absolutely be that. I think I can trust that the metal is clean under it as it’s been clean and solid every time I’ve decided to grind it all the way back to test. I’m painting it all with some rust converter before epoxy-mastic.
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Feb 16, 2022 07:59
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Winter tire question, warm spell this weekend and a long trip south (to PA ~900 miles) have me contemplating swapping back to all seasons just for a week or so. I’m down 2 from a full set so I’ll have to shop around, and I’m sharing a single set of wheels so I’ll have to pay a shop to swap. How bad would it be to just be lazy and do the trip on the winter tires? It’s in the 60’s for highs where I’m driving.
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Feb 16, 2022 14:17
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Sextro posted:Winter tire question, warm spell this weekend and a long trip south (to PA ~900 miles) have me contemplating swapping back to all seasons just for a week or so. I’m down 2 from a full set so I’ll have to shop around, and I’m sharing a single set of wheels so I’ll have to pay a shop to swap. ryanrs posted:2000 Toyota Sienna minivan. I need to replace my rear axle support bushings. They are totally gone.
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Feb 16, 2022 15:08
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wesleywillis posted:Be lazy Seconded. It is probably going to be a big pain in the rear end, so use the best quality part you can get. Why are you swapping wheels? Find something, anything, that can fit on your tires and vehicle. Mount and balance labor for one swap would probably go a long way to buying a set of (possibly) ugly wheels for winter. It isn't like winter wheels and tires take up appreciably more room than unmounted winter tires. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Feb 16, 2022 |
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Feb 16, 2022 18:54
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PBCrunch posted:Seconded. It is probably going to be a big pain in the rear end, so use the best quality part you can get. That was the ultimate goal, planning to buy a second set of wheels to remount the all-seasons on ~end of March. Unexpected trip and warm weather just had me worried it would be best to swap the tires back to save my rubber or something.
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Feb 16, 2022 19:40
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Sextro posted:That was the ultimate goal, planning to buy a second set of wheels to remount the all-seasons on ~end of March. Unexpected trip and warm weather just had me worried it would be best to swap the tires back to save my rubber or something. Just keep them on there. What if the weather report is wrong? Its not that common anymore, but still happens from time to time.
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Feb 16, 2022 20:00
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wesleywillis posted:Just keep them on there. What if the weather report is wrong? Its not that common anymore, but still happens from time to time. I mean, even if they’re off by 17 degrees it’ll still be over 50 and we’re talking about blasting up and down i95. E: but yeah probably gonna keep the winters on. Might borrow someone’s durango that’s been sat all winter on it’s all-seasons.
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Feb 16, 2022 20:16
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Would it be cheaper to rent a car for the weekend than to buy tires?
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Feb 16, 2022 20:54
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We live remote enough we only have 1 option to conveniently rent from and it’s out of cars the days we need. Last year when I looked at rentals the cost would have been the price of at least one of the tires anyway.
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Feb 16, 2022 21:01
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How important is it actually to have a car's ECM updated after having replacement parts installed? I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent with <60k miles, a few months ago a knock sensor went bad and I had it replaced at a local shop and when I picked the car up the dude at the counter mentioned I should take it to a dealership for an ECM update. I called Hyundai customer support to find a local dealership and the guy on the line found one for me but also mentioned that there's nothing in his literature that suggests an ECM update is necessary after a knock sensor replacement. I opted to believe him and never had it performed. Earlier this week the check engine light comes on again, take the car to the same shop and this time it's apparently the throttle body that needs replacing. W/e I have it replaced and again when I got to pick it up the dude at the counter suggests an ECM update, he says it's free at a dealership or they have a specialist that comes by but that would be $225. I figure that's insanely pricey for something that could be free so I called the nearest dealership and apparently they are booked all the way to JULY (FFS). Lady at the dealership offered to book an appointment but it seemed rather pointless. If updating the ECM is truly important I shouldn't be driving my car for four months while awaiting the appt. So, what do, goons? E: Forgot to mention I have not driven much since picking the car up from the shop but it feels/sounds totally normal while driving, but then again it also felt totally normal when the knock sensor / throttle body needed replacing so I honestly don't even know anymore.
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Feb 16, 2022 22:38
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Make the appointment for the free update for your peace of mind. Drive your car in the mean time, it's fine. It's not like the "out of date" ECM software is physically breaking your sensors.
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Feb 16, 2022 22:40
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spankmeister posted:Make the appointment for the free update for your peace of mind. Drive your car in the mean time, it's fine. It's not like the "out of date" ECM software is physically breaking your sensors. This doesn't change the advice but my Aston actually had a problem where the programming on the ECU caused some O2 sensor to actually burn out or some poo poo. I swear, the inventive ways car companies find to break poo poo is impressive.
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Feb 16, 2022 22:48
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KillHour posted:This doesn't change the advice but my Aston actually had a problem where the programming on the ECU caused some O2 sensor to actually burn out or some poo poo. I swear, the inventive ways car companies find to break poo poo is impressive. But that's a British car, that doesn't count.
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Feb 16, 2022 22:50
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