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It’s now ~20 C in every one of my rooms, gently caress this system is AWESOME. Can’t wait to get my Emporias back online so I can more accurate monitor power consumption of the system, but it’s definitely doing better than resistive heat!
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Feb 9, 2022 01:04
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Until your oa drops below 10f. (5f with hyperheat models). the falloff curve for efficiency and capacity is pretty steep after that.
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Feb 9, 2022 02:05
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MRC48B posted:Until your oa drops below 10f. (5f with hyperheat models). the falloff curve for efficiency and capacity is pretty steep after that. It slid just under 0C here in SEA over the holidays, but I went with the 48K BTU HyperHeat system. Definitely milder climate than if I was trying to run this system in Minneapolis or something. Very curious to see how it does with our hell world climate change summer this go around. I ordered 3 of the Kumo wireless units to toe the waters… the remotes are pretty decent but programming the schedules reminds me too much of programming a VCR. I opted for Wi-Fi Intermatic AC timers for the simple reason of ease of setting schedules in a GUI versus using a 2 push-button UI to get everything done.
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Feb 9, 2022 03:28
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kastein posted:I dunno about that, my midea variable speed unit that I installed was great initially but the (non greasable) bearings in the indoor unit blower motor went from silent to "jet engine spooling for takeoff" within 2 years and I'm not exactly happy about that. And it's essentially impossible to get any communication from their official support line even when asking to give them money for parts, I had more luck googling for several hours to find part numbers and then using those to find the parts catalog for the unit. Thank you for this - I was really eyeing a Midea U-Inverter, but it's still full price even in the middle of winter. After reading your post, I guess I'll keep looking. Amazon reviews for any air conditioner are scary. The I'm looking for a ~6,000 BTU window unit for a bedroom, but something that is as quiet as possible. We're okay with spending $300-400 or so, but considering my cheapo $150 Kenmore lasted over 10 years before the electronics started shorting out from condensation, I'm open to just about any brand.
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Feb 9, 2022 22:44
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I'm not sure if this is the right place, but seems like the crowd that could at least point me in the right direction! My heated floor thermostat stopped working from one day to the next. I'm getting 120 VAC to the unit but it won't turn on. What I'm assuming are the wires that go down to the temp sensor (the 2 black wires bottom left of the box in the last photo) read about 13 ohms, if that tells you anything. Anything I can do here other than replace it? If I have to replace it, it doesn't look like they make this model anymore, here's a similar looking model, how can I tell if it'll work the same? Can I pretty much get any heated floor thermostat?   
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Feb 11, 2022 21:41
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define "not working" nuheat manuals indicate that sensor should read 8 to 12 thousand ohms at room temp. so that might be a problem.
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Feb 11, 2022 23:29
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MRC48B posted:define "not working" Won’t turn on, as in nothing on the display, nothing to indicate it’s on. I’ll double check resistance. I hope the sensor isn’t toast 
epswing fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Feb 12, 2022 |
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Feb 11, 2022 23:44
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My heat stopped working last night. I thought I did not hear any air blowing last night and when I woke up this morning it was incredibly cold in the house. I went over to the thermostat to check it and it was completely blank. I replaced the (corroded) batteries and thermostat unit came back on. However, when I plugged the thermostat unit back into the wall, although I can hear the 'click' sound the air handler does not turn on. Setting the fan mode to 'on' does not bring the air handler fan on. Any thoughts on what might be going on or what I can check? Some pic are attached in case they are helpful: https://imgur.com/tvMFrQV https://imgur.com/SMgaGVc
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Feb 14, 2022 15:34
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Jose Cuervo posted:My heat stopped working last night. I thought I did not hear any air blowing last night and when I woke up this morning it was incredibly cold in the house. I went over to the thermostat to check it and it was completely blank. I replaced the (corroded) batteries and thermostat unit came back on. However, when I plugged the thermostat unit back into the wall, although I can hear the 'click' sound the air handler does not turn on. Setting the fan mode to 'on' does not bring the air handler fan on. Check to see if you tripped the breaker. If it's not tripped then cycle it off and back on. It will reset any error it has from the thermostat failing hopefully and kick on. If that doesn't work you're going to have to inspect the control board on the unit to see if it's flashing an error code.
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Feb 14, 2022 15:41
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Just tried this. Turned the breakers off for 3 minutes then turned them back on, but nothing happened. Is the control board on/in the air handler?
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Feb 14, 2022 16:49
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Jose Cuervo posted:Just tried this. Turned the breakers off for 3 minutes then turned them back on, but nothing happened. Yes. There may even be a little sight glass on the panel to peak in at the LED that's blinking. Otherwise you'll need to pop the panels off to see it. If you're doing that then be careful. I'd usually advise to cut the power but then you won't be able to see any errors from the control board, so just be careful and don't touch anything electrical. Once you have the blink pattern you can look up the error code. There may be a sticker on the inside of the air handler or it's panels that tell you what it means. Also look for the air handlers model number and take a picture of it so you can Google it later for documentation and/or parts. You'll probably need to call a professional regardless of whatever the error is unfortunately, but it's good to have the issue info when you call. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Feb 14, 2022 |
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Feb 14, 2022 16:55
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SpartanIvy posted:Yes. There may even be a little sight glass on the panel to peak in at the LED that's blinking. Otherwise you'll need to pop the panels off to see it. If you're doing that then be careful. I'd usually advise to cut the power but then you won't be able to see any errors from the control board, so just be careful and don't touch anything electrical. This is a pic of the inside of the air handler after I took the cover off. No led lights anywhere from what I can see. Thoughts? https://imgur.com/undefined https://imgur.com/undefined https://imgur.com/BGHYE2Z Also is it normal to have this much mold on the inside?
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Feb 14, 2022 17:54
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Jose Cuervo posted:This is a pic of the inside of the air handler after I took the cover off. No led lights anywhere from what I can see. Thoughts? Your first two picture links did not copy correctly.
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Feb 14, 2022 18:17
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My furnace has an interlock switch so it kills power to the whole thing when the covers are pulled off, I used a scrap of sheetmetal to hold the switch down when I was testing it. I went a day without a thermostat so I would run down there and hang the wire when it got cold then pull it when it was too hot. Speaking of thermostats why does the Ecobee ignore stg 1 heat, it almost never uses stage 1 alone prefering to cycle stage 2 instead. Why did I spend extra on a two stage furnace?
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Feb 14, 2022 18:30
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SpartanIvy posted:Your first two picture links did not copy correctly. Working links: https://imgur.com/QSlhnBc https://imgur.com/iL2Xvfa
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Feb 14, 2022 19:12
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SpeedFreek posted:
Most thermostats have a "stage delay" in either temp or time that decides when the second stage kicks on. See if yours has been cranked down for some reason. This can frequently happen if you're talking the temperature more than a few degrees, the stat sees it has a lot of change to make up so accelerates with a second stage. Like if you set the temp low overnight or during the day then jack it up when you wake up/get home.
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Feb 14, 2022 19:33
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Turns out the corrosion from the batteries shorted something out on the thermostat unit and damaged it, and the 5-amp fuse in the air handler blew to protect the air handler. Headed out to buy a fuse and new thermostat unit.
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Feb 14, 2022 19:54
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That's laid out a little bit less intuitively than most units I've seen. The control board is probably under the schematic panel where all the wires lead. Here's a YouTube that shows what the board should look like. No idea if the content of the video is helpful or not, I'm not able to watch it currently. https://youtu.be/BzYbtk92I5E Jose Cuervo posted:Turns out the corrosion from the batteries shorted something out on the thermostat unit and damaged it, and the 5-amp fuse in the air handler blew to protect the air handler. E: nice. Hope that's it.
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Feb 14, 2022 20:01
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TacoHavoc posted:Most thermostats have a "stage delay" in either temp or time that decides when the second stage kicks on. See if yours has been cranked down for some reason. After connecting it to Home Assistant recently I like the thing even less. I am looking for any alternative, I almost want to take an old PLC I have laying around here and use it but dont have a RTD card for it.
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Feb 14, 2022 21:42
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Problem not yet solved. I had a Trane TCONT803AS32DA thermostat controlling a Heat Pump with Electric Auxiliary (Backup) Heat that was wired as follows: https://imgur.com/wabSzsR If it is not clear from the picture Red goes to R, Orange to O, yellow to Y, Green to G, Blue to B, Black to W1, and Brown to Y2. I went out and bought a Honeywell RTH6580WF thermostat which I wired up as follows: https://imgur.com/nZMKrKx From left to right I wired Brown to L, Black to Aux/E, Green to G, Orange to O/B, Blue to C, Yellow to Y, and Red to R. Using a jumper cable I was able to successfully get the fan on the air handler to run by connecting the green and red wires, and the 5amp fuse did not blow. However, when the thermostat is plugged in to the wall and the breaker to the air handler is turned on, the 5 amp fuse on the air handler immediately blows. Did I mis-wire the new thermostat? Jose Cuervo fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Feb 15, 2022 |
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Feb 14, 2022 23:31
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it doesn't appear so, but we can't see the other end of the cable, with the breaker off, open the electrical compartment on the ahu and look for shorted wires, burny bits etc. if nothing, differential analysis time! hope you have a lot of fuses. pull the backplate off the wall, and remove (and isolate cap/tape the ends of) the following wires one at a time, and plug in the stat and try turning it on, until it stops blowing fuses: L aux/e o/b y g c, if you get this far, something else is hosed, shorted cable, something in the air handler. gl/hf, don't poke at things with the power on.
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Feb 15, 2022 00:08
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SpeedFreek posted:Its an Ecobee, there is nothing to adjust unfortunately. It is programmed for two stage heat and if I use a paperclip I can get stage 1, 2, or just the fan to run just fine so I'm thinking I need something else. Does any of this apply to your model? It's basically what I was talking about https://support.ecobee.com/s/articles/Threshold-settings-for-ecobee-thermostats
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Feb 15, 2022 00:16
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Thanks, I dont remember seeing any of those options when I installed it. I'll let it run a few days and check the logs again after playing with it.
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Feb 15, 2022 00:58
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Is there a way to calculate ballpark cost of operation for a whole home ASHP if I have data on therms used in the existing 80% furnace?
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Feb 19, 2022 16:17
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Is there a way to calculate ballpark cost of operation for a whole home ASHP if I have data on therms used in the existing 80% furnace? Therms * 100,000 * .80 = Total BTUs to heat Total BTUs to heat / (3412 * COP of HP) = kWh to heat Cost= kWh * your electric rate The COP of the HP is going to be variable, depending on the outdoor temp. You might be able to find an average temp for the months you're considering and just use that to get a basic ballpark.
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Feb 19, 2022 20:44
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B-Nasty posted:Therms * 100,000 * .80 = Total BTUs to heat Thanks! Out of curiousity, where does the 3412 come from?
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Feb 19, 2022 21:42
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Thanks! Out of curiousity, where does the 3412 come from? That's the BTUs per kWh of electricity, if you were using straight resistance heat (COP=1), assuming 100% efficiency, which almost all electric heat sources would be. A heat pump has a higher COP (usually higher than 2), so you get some multiplier more BTUs than resistance heat.
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Feb 20, 2022 02:36
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Was directed here from the house ownership thread, here's my issue: gas furnace, installed 2020 (before I moved in) - when the heat is not running, a smell sometimes comes out of the vents. It smells sort of like burning plastic, I guess, but it's hard to describe. It's not sulfur-like, so no gas leaks - also tested for this with one of those handheld detectors. It started doing this halfway through winter, so I'd think all the off-season dust would've gone by now. It seems to happen more often on colder days, earlier thought it was ONLY colder days but it's been in the 50s here today. I've had two different companies out to look at the furnace, and both people said that everything looks fine - one turned down the flame level or something thinking some plastic coil inside was overheating too much, but that didn't correct the issue. The smell gets bad enough sometimes that it wakes me up in the middle of the night, and then I need to fiddle with turning the heat on or off and try to make it go away. Today's another day where it's had bad moments, including just smelling it in the basement. Someone thought it was possibly from an ethernet cable I have running up against the duct work leading to my office room. Any thoughts? EDIT: Turns out the furnace actually had a minor leak. It's been fixed now. KariOhki fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Feb 23, 2022 |
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Feb 22, 2022 00:22
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remove the cable, see if problem continues.
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Feb 22, 2022 00:49
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I'm having some confusion with our 4 zone Mitsubishi minisplit system. We have 4 separate MHK2 thermostats. The issue is that i apparently can't manually control the heat/cool mode. If I set a thermostat to HEAT, the heat won't turn on. If I set it to AUTO, it will. What's going on? Presumably something in the configuration?
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Feb 24, 2022 21:03
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Residency Evil posted:I'm having some confusion with our 4 zone Mitsubishi minisplit system. We have 4 separate MHK2 thermostats. The issue is that i apparently can't manually control the heat/cool mode. If I set a thermostat to HEAT, the heat won't turn on. If I set it to AUTO, it will. What's going on? Presumably something in the configuration? Have you tried setting all 4 thermostats to either heat or cool? You can't do both things on different units because there is a single reversing valve outside at the compressor. Not sure how that system coordinates that between tstats.
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Feb 24, 2022 21:16
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Motronic posted:Have you tried setting all 4 thermostats to either heat or cool? Yup. When I set all 4 to Heat none of them Heat.
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Feb 24, 2022 21:21
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Residency Evil posted:Yup. When I set all 4 to Heat none of them Heat. So is this a new system, has it heated before, are you sure you got a heat pump system?
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Mar 1, 2022 02:42
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At some point before we owned this house, it looks like a rodent chewed into the duct board of our return plenum in the basement. Gross. It's on a narrow end of the plenum, a face about 1x2" in size. Is this the kind of thing that I could reasonably repair in place myself, or do I need an HVAC specialist for it? I was planning on cutting it at the seam and then using the hepa vac we have to clean out what I could see. Some googling suggests that sealing up duct board might be trickier than it looks, especially given that one side doesn't have much clearance from the wall (maybe an inch).
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Mar 7, 2022 00:09
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Motronic posted:Have you tried setting all 4 thermostats to either heat or cool? I just got a Mitsubishi system installed as well; AFAIK, the most recent caller / requestor gets priority. So, it should be heating…
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Mar 7, 2022 14:00
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ductboard is just fiberglass insulation between rigid tinfoil. as for repairs, it depends on how nice you need it to look. foil tape then insulating foam tape then foil tape over that if the hole is small enough.
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Mar 8, 2022 03:23
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Danhenge posted:At some point before we owned this house, it looks like a rodent chewed into the duct board of our return plenum in the basement. Gross. It's on a narrow end of the plenum, a face about 1x2" in size. Is this the kind of thing that I could reasonably repair in place myself, or do I need an HVAC specialist for it? I was planning on cutting it at the seam and then using the hepa vac we have to clean out what I could see. Some googling suggests that sealing up duct board might be trickier than it looks, especially given that one side doesn't have much clearance from the wall (maybe an inch). Easily DIY because the consequences for failure are pretty low. If it were me, I'd cover the wall side the board in caulk before putting it in, to try and seal off any leaks that may occur. If you want to go the extra mile, get a bucket of duct mastic, a cheap paint brush, and some gloves and go to town on any exposed duct joint you can reach in your basement. Your energy bills will likely thank you!
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Mar 9, 2022 01:39
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Any tips on finding duct board? The websites for my local big box stores don't have it in stock.
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Mar 9, 2022 03:29
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you probably need to hit a pro distributor for that.
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Mar 9, 2022 03:34
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Industrial HVAC question. What's the go to brand for a bulletproof industrial chiller? We have a ThermalCare 10 ton chiller that has been a dumpster fire. We've only got 1000 hours on it and the scroll compressor blew (bearings). The manufacturer no longer makes that compressor, so now I need a new compressor which of course isn't in stock and no ones knows when it will be in stock. Our local HVAC guys said to check out Dimplex. Ideally I want something that has a minimal amount of electronics / VFD's / PLC's so we can just go to local supply house and source it.
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Mar 9, 2022 14:06
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