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LordoftheScheisse
Jan 16, 2016

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Is Chamberlain still a recommended smart garage door opener?

I bought a cheap-ish one about 6 months ago and have no complaints. The wife locked herself out one day and was saved by the app.

I recently got Google Home going in my house, but I can't quite get my lg BX OLED and Google to work together. I've connected the two, and they definitely communicate when I say "Hey Google, turn the volume to 14 on the TV," "turn the tv off," etc. But when I say "Hey Google, show my photos on the TV," Google says it doesn't recognize any casting devices. I definitely have Google photos and the correct account linked. Anyone have any luck with this?

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Does anyone happen to know why this kind of poo poo happens? On the left hand side, the update rate is pretty high, on the right hand side it suddenly dropped a lot.

I'm using a CC2652R with zigbee2mqtt. The sensor(s) in question are those battery-driven Aqara temperature and humidity sensors. It's unlikely to be a battery issue, since pretty much all of them did that change of rate.

Bobstar
Feb 8, 2006

KartooshFace, you are not responding efficiently!

Weird I was just thinking the same thing, same setup. My upstairs one stopped reporting completely, so I deleted and re-added it. Now it's gone ultra high rate, and the battery's dropping fast. Almost like it's gone "fine, you want me to report, I'll show you reporting!" :v:

I know there's a setting under Zigbee2MQTT > [the device] > Reporting, for a min/max rep interval, which seem to be set to 60/3600 (seconds I assume) by default. But no idea how it decides within that range.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Thanks for pointing that one out.

Yeah, it's weird that the sensors drop rate at some undefined point. They do update instantly, tho, if there's a drastic environmental change. Be it a temperature drop from cross ventilation, or just blowing on them.

Gyshall
Feb 24, 2009

Had a couple of drinks.
Saw a couple of things.
I'm trying to track when my dryer and washer are running via a vibration sensor, but so far the aquara ones I've been using don't pick up anything at all.

Any recommendations on how to approach this? I'm in the US so my plug options are limited I believe... I also just installed a sense device on my main breaker panel but it's not as real time as I'd like.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Uhh so I’m trying to add the Chamberlain Smart Garage Control myQ hub to HomeKit, but there’s no HomeKit QR code or number anywhere on the packaging. And the manual makes no note of HomeKit at all. Did I buy the wrong thing? This was the only myQ hub I saw at Lowe’s and it seems to be the new version of the older black hub?

Boner Wad
Nov 16, 2003
Speaking of myQ, is there a way to disable the annoying beeping noise/flashing lights when I close the garage door remotely? My neighbors think there's an alarm going off when I close it.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

No. That’s a safety feature and it shouldn’t be disabled even if you could.

Its a legal requirement for manufacturers

https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/16/1211.14


I mean nothing is going to stop you from disabling the speaker physically I guess. I don’t find mine to be that loud tbh, my neighbors definitely can’t hear it. I can barely hear it through the door to my house.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Gerdalti posted:

I have a few wall switches I want to play with, but I don't want to keep switching off breakers to get them set up. Would it be at all safe to take a computer power cord and strip the end, and use that to power them on my work bench? It would be nice to be able to plug/unplug them easily.

What you're asking for is called a cheater cord or suicide lead depending on where you're from. I do that all the time for testing panels and controllers with my job. I see no danger as long as you develop good habits, used to use cheater cords up to 480V at 100A without incident (personally).

You will need to tin the ends of the wires with solder or crimp something on to keep the wire strands in line. Get in the habit of unplugging it, do something like stick the plug in your pocket or under your arm whenever you need to adjust or move anything. Tug test all the wires before you plug it in and make sure everything is stable enough you don't get an accidental light show. Plug it into a GFI outlet, remember you do this at your own risk.

AND DON'T TOUCH THE SHINY PARTS WHEN YOU PLUG IT IN!

Do the Chamberlain openers or hub require internet connection to work with Home Assistant? I'm trying to keep all of my stuff offline

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Uhh so I’m trying to add the Chamberlain Smart Garage Control myQ hub to HomeKit, but there’s no HomeKit QR code or number anywhere on the packaging. And the manual makes no note of HomeKit at all. Did I buy the wrong thing? This was the only myQ hub I saw at Lowe’s and it seems to be the new version of the older black hub?



Turns out this is just for getting non-myQ openers online. I need the $100 black box to get HomeKit comparability. What an absolutely stupid price for that.

I just installed the myQ homebridge plugin and it works great. I even get garage door notifications on my Apple TV now too.

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!

SpeedFreek posted:

What you're asking for is called a cheater cord or suicide lead depending on where you're from. I do that all the time for testing panels and controllers with my job. I see no danger as long as you develop good habits, used to use cheater cords up to 480V at 100A without incident (personally).

You will need to tin the ends of the wires with solder or crimp something on to keep the wire strands in line. Get in the habit of unplugging it, do something like stick the plug in your pocket or under your arm whenever you need to adjust or move anything. Tug test all the wires before you plug it in and make sure everything is stable enough you don't get an accidental light show. Plug it into a GFI outlet, remember you do this at your own risk.

AND DON'T TOUCH THE SHINY PARTS WHEN YOU PLUG IT IN!


To add to this...

I've also used them professionally for bench work/prototyping. Remember these things as well:

1) Attended use only. Don't leave stuff running and walk away from the setup. By having a switch or other wiring device hanging in midair, you don't have the protection of the wallbox to catch arcs/hot components/other things if something goes bad electrically and the switch has a catastrophic failure.
2) Make it a habit to wire a visual indicator into the power cord. We had prewired cords that went plug -> box with switch and LED indicator -> wire leads. Then still double power up/down. To turn on, confirm switch is off, plug into wall, flip switch on. To turn off, turn switch off, then unplug from wall.

It all sounds like overkill, but it's easy to get complacent and line voltage can get real zesty real fast.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

TacoHavoc posted:

To add to this...

I've also used them professionally for bench work/prototyping. Remember these things as well:

1) Attended use only. Don't leave stuff running and walk away from the setup. By having a switch or other wiring device hanging in midair, you don't have the protection of the wallbox to catch arcs/hot components/other things if something goes bad electrically and the switch has a catastrophic failure.
2) Make it a habit to wire a visual indicator into the power cord. We had prewired cords that went plug -> box with switch and LED indicator -> wire leads. Then still double power up/down. To turn on, confirm switch is off, plug into wall, flip switch on. To turn off, turn switch off, then unplug from wall.

It all sounds like overkill, but it's easy to get complacent and line voltage can get real zesty real fast.

Adding to this. Don't tin the ends of the wires. The solder will creep if it heats up and will weaken the wire. Crimp ferrules on the wires, like you're supposed to.

Keystoned
Jan 27, 2012

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Turns out this is just for getting non-myQ openers online. I need the $100 black box to get HomeKit comparability. What an absolutely stupid price for that.

I just installed the myQ homebridge plugin and it works great. I even get garage door notifications on my Apple TV now too.

Mind linking to what you bought? I think is see it but not sure. I have the stupid black box already.

Also if what im lookibg at is right the control system comes with one sensor for $22 and additional sensers are $38? Why wouldnt i just buy the whole thingbagain if its cheaper?

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Keystoned posted:

Mind linking to what you bought? I think is see it but not sure. I have the stupid black box already.

Also if what im lookibg at is right the control system comes with one sensor for $22 and additional sensers are $38? Why wouldnt i just buy the whole thingbagain if its cheaper?

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09JL9N6R7

And yeah when I searched for that, the lone door sensor came up as $38, wtf.

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022
I have a room I want to use a smart plug in. I just want to plug a lamp into the smart plug. Traditionally I've used smart switches for my overhead can lights in other rooms. I have a smart things hub and use mostly zwave stuff.

How can I get some sort of switch to work with the smart plug? It seems like smart plugs with a wall switch are not common at all... Why is that? This feels like a common use case. I don't need an elaborate wall switch to pass power through to lights, just one to literally act as a remote for the plug

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ASG9YCV45BBTYGQ98ZK1 I am getting this for the smart plug but still not sure how to control it from the wall.

Kwolok fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Feb 27, 2022

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.

Kwolok posted:

I have a room I want to use a smart plug in. I just want to plug a lamp into the smart plug. Traditionally I've used smart switches for my overhead can lights in other rooms. I have a smart things hub and use mostly zwave stuff.

How can I get some sort of switch to work with the smart plug? It seems like smart plugs with a wall switch are not common at all... Why is that? This feels like a common use case. I don't need an elaborate wall switch to pass power through to lights, just one to literally act as a remote for the plug

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ASG9YCV45BBTYGQ98ZK1 I am getting this for the smart plug but still not sure how to control it from the wall.

You want something like this: https://www.belkin.com/us/smart-home/wemo/wemo-stage-scene-controller-with-thread/p/p-wsc010/

It's essentially a really simple remote control that ties into the system and has a few controllable buttons. The bonus with these is that you don't have to wire it in anywhere it is just like a remote that you can keep stuck to the wall or move around if need be!

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022

priznat posted:

You want something like this: https://www.belkin.com/us/smart-home/wemo/wemo-stage-scene-controller-with-thread/p/p-wsc010/

It's essentially a really simple remote control that ties into the system and has a few controllable buttons. The bonus with these is that you don't have to wire it in anywhere it is just like a remote that you can keep stuck to the wall or move around if need be!

This only appears to work with apple home and I'm using a Samsung smartthings as my hub

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.

Kwolok posted:

This only appears to work with apple home and I'm using a Samsung smartthings as my hub

Oh, dang, yeah.. There's gotta be some similar switches for smartthings, something like this perhaps: https://www.amazon.com/Sengled-E39-G8C-Compatible-SmartThings-Brightness/dp/B07QHDV5S4/ref=psdc_6291358011_t3_B01NCEJAOD

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022
Thinking this may work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TMWLY74/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_HPG6XNEQR2K6RNSY07F5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye
Hi everybody,

I run a basic Ubiquiti network w/ Lutron lights, Nest for security and cameras. I'd like to add water sensors because I'm paranoid about water damage. I see a lot of people have been using Aqara and just purchased the Aqara M2 hub and a few water sensors. Any tips/tricks on keeping them running or are there alternatives to Aqara other people recommend? Thanks.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Home Assistant 2022.3 is changing(?) the UI component library it uses, so I guess plenty of custom components might blow up.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Combat Pretzel posted:

Home Assistant 2022.3 is changing(?) the UI component library it uses, so I guess plenty of custom components might blow up.

Good reminder to make sure I run a snapshot of my VM before upgrading. Thanks!

Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.

Combat Pretzel posted:

Home Assistant 2022.3 is changing(?) the UI component library it uses, so I guess plenty of custom components might blow up.

Oof, that's gonna be interesting.

Also, is it normal for devices to fall out of HA only to automatically get re-detected/added but with different device names thus breaking automations and dashboards? This has been happening to me all of a sudden recently with my Roku TVs and my Z-Wave outlets.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

Scruff McGruff posted:

Oof, that's gonna be interesting.

Also, is it normal for devices to fall out of HA only to automatically get re-detected/added but with different device names thus breaking automations and dashboards? This has been happening to me all of a sudden recently with my Roku TVs and my Z-Wave outlets.

Yup. HA doesn't like when devices change their name.

It's particularly bad with IP addresses... I set everything to static if I need it to talk to HA.

My assumption is that it does this because if you rely on some unique identifier like serial number or MAC address, then you'll need to change HA when the device dies and is replaced. By using name or IP, then you can just configure the replacement the same way as before and HA won't know the difference.

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Mar 1, 2022

Gyshall
Feb 24, 2009

Had a couple of drinks.
Saw a couple of things.
Goons using HA with the adaptive lighting integration - how are you handling your settings? I currently set settings for each room, but it seems cumbersome to manage and now I have like 30 adaptive lighting integrations set up. Anything better?

blastron
Dec 11, 2007

Don't doodle on it!


Gyshall posted:

Goons using HA with the adaptive lighting integration - how are you handling your settings? I currently set settings for each room, but it seems cumbersome to manage and now I have like 30 adaptive lighting integrations set up. Anything better?

I live alone in a one-bedroom condo and have a very predictable evening, so I don’t need anything fancy. All of my lights are dimmable LEDs controlled by smart dimmers, which are all on the same Adaptive Lighting script. I enable/disable sleep mode via HomeKit automations, and if I need to override any behavior I have the entire plugin on a virtual switch exposed to HomeKit. I generally don’t need anything else, but, again, I live alone in a small condo. If you have multiple people or need different behaviors in different rooms then you’ll need something fancier.

The one thing I really want is a per-room multiplier, since I have different bulbs in different rooms that have different actual brightnesses but are all controlled by the same 0-100% value. I’ve considered having different Adaptive Lighting scripts for different rooms, but it seems cumbersome like you’ve said so I’ve just accepted that my bathroom is going to be brighter than my bedroom. I’ve had some degree of success solving that by tweaking the minimum dimming value on the hardware switches themselves but it’s not perfect.

(The other thing I want is for my Lutron switches to have a programmable value for the “on” button because currently if I need to pee at 2 AM I have to cover my eyes for a second as they flash to 100% before dimming to 15%, but Adaptive Lighting can’t fix that.)

Gyshall
Feb 24, 2009

Had a couple of drinks.
Saw a couple of things.
Makes sense, I'm using hue bulbs almost everywhere so lighting is generally consistent. I'm also realizing you can apply various adaptive settings to lights or groups of lights themselves via automation service calls, so maybe having individual profiles for adaptive lighting sets is more what I'm after.

My other option is to move the adaptive lighting config into YAML instead (which I might do anyway) and then use anchors or whatever yaml nonsense to keep the configs more manageable.

Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.
Anker/Eufy announced their own smart lock/doorbell camera with fingerprint scanner. Pretty compelling at $200

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.

Scruff McGruff posted:

Anker/Eufy announced their own smart lock/doorbell camera with fingerprint scanner. Pretty compelling at $200

That's pretty neat, not really into kickstarters though. Also does it have homekit support?

Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.

priznat posted:

That's pretty neat, not really into kickstarters though. Also does it have homekit support?

Anker basically uses Kickstarter as their Early Access shop so I wouldn't treat it like independent projects that may or may not ever appear. They're a major brand that has existing production logistics for their products in place so you know you'll actually get whatever you "back" (pre-order).

Not sure about the Homekit support though, I know some of their cameras are. Might be worth submitting a question to the FAQ section of the kickstarter page about it.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
Looks pretty neat even if it doesn't have homekit, think I'll go for it.

Cornjob
Jun 12, 2007

NOT AN ACTOR
I took a chance and ordered a Caavo control center for my living room. Epson projector, denon AVR, appletv, Wii. I was a little worried because it looks like maybe theyre dropping this model and chasing a new business model. It works great. My needs on the living room system are simple. Control the gear without line of sight IR. Works great. No complex automations needed, kid friendly. It works.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.
Dang in the comments for that eufy lock/camera it says no Homekit support. That's kind of a bummer. Would it be possible to integrate it into homekit via home assistant?

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I need a solar powered wifi camera that can do about 150'/50m minimum range plus one wall, thats about as close as I can get a router to it. Almost everything I have found says nothing about the range and most reviews are people putting it right on their house.

Does anyone have any experience with a camera like that? I'm planning on keeping the camera and NVR computer on a separate network and have driveway sensors I'm working on integrating with Home Assistant, all I need the camera to do is get the plate from the Amazon truck driving across my lawn to the neighbors driveway.

edit: Using the list of compatible cameras on Zoneminder to check what I find against, if it works for that it should work for Shinobi I'm thinking.

SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Mar 3, 2022

Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.

priznat posted:

Dang in the comments for that eufy lock/camera it says no Homekit support. That's kind of a bummer. Would it be possible to integrate it into homekit via home assistant?

I would think that you could use HomeBridge to do this but I haven't used it myself so I'm not 100% sure on that.

Edit: It looks like you might not even need HomeBridge anymore, the built-in Homekit integration might be able to do this.

Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Mar 3, 2022

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.

Scruff McGruff posted:

I would think that you could use HomeBridge to do this but I haven't used it myself so I'm not 100% sure on that.

Edit: It looks like you might not even need HomeBridge anymore, the built-in Homekit integration might be able to do this.

At most it would be nice to be able to control/query the lock via automations, the video feed would be nice to be able to pipe to icloud secure video but not necessary. If their app is decent that's fine.

fletcher
Jun 27, 2003

ken park is my favorite movie

Cybernetic Crumb

SpeedFreek posted:

I need a solar powered wifi camera that can do about 150'/50m minimum range plus one wall, thats about as close as I can get a router to it. Almost everything I have found says nothing about the range and most reviews are people putting it right on their house.

Does anyone have any experience with a camera like that? I'm planning on keeping the camera and NVR computer on a separate network and have driveway sensors I'm working on integrating with Home Assistant, all I need the camera to do is get the plate from the Amazon truck driving across my lawn to the neighbors driveway.

edit: Using the list of compatible cameras on Zoneminder to check what I find against, if it works for that it should work for Shinobi I'm thinking.

I think you may need to consider a more elaborate setup for something like that, handling solar + battery as well as network connectivity separate from the camera itself rather than having an all in one solution. I would consider running a POE line instead if it's feasible

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

2 Caseta dimmers, 2 Picos, 2 Pico pedestals, smart hub for $96. These will be gone instantly. I snagged 2.

https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/15652360

e: LOL, out of stock as I posted.

Gyshall
Feb 24, 2009

Had a couple of drinks.
Saw a couple of things.
Any recommendations for bliss light/similar devices compatible with home assistant? I want to make our kids playroom chill af

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adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye
I just installed a bunch (3) Aqara water sensors and an M2 hub for HA integration. These things are great. But having realized how many places I'd like instant water damage notice...has anybody purchased a dozen or more of these guys or had any issues?

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