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DoubleT2172
Sep 24, 2007

Really just need to buy a TV large enough to fill the width of that space

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I can't believe it. I told my wife if she emptied her closet I'd out her closet shelving in and she... Did it. Now I have to put it in! This isn't fair!

So far, demoed the shelf, rod, and cleats, patched them, patched the home I made prying against the drywall (which formed way too easy that poo poo was broken before I'm sure of it), and primed. It's time to paint and I'll probably be done before noon tomorrow.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

I have steam radiators (one pipe). This is my first winter with em.

One of the air vents was making a lot of noise and sputtering water so I took it off to clean/descale.

The clean and descale seemed to resolve that issue, however when I attempted to screw the vent back on, once I got to what felt like the appropriate tightness + being upright, it would constantly unthread and slip out. The threads also seem not very deep. I assume it’s tight enough because the plumbers tape keeps shredding off.


I finally got it on at what felt like the right tightness, however now there is a VERY slow leak at the connection. Like, 1 very small drop bleeding out per 10 minutes. I’m afraid to take it off again because I’m worried the threads on the radiator itself are in bad shape. How do I fix this?

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Piper sealant tape? Take it off, wrap the thread in tape, screw back on

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Struensee posted:

Piper sealant tape? Take it off, wrap the thread in tape, screw back on

Yeah I’ve got plenty on there already.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Yeah I’ve got plenty on there already.

Liquid dope?

AHH F/UGH
May 25, 2002

Okay the epoxy I did on my tub was basically a complete disaster and I'm probably going to have to go with the "rip it out and install new tub and surround" option that I hoped to avoid.

I can't even begin to explain how much it loving sucked trying to pour this poo poo out of squeeze bags, it made a huge mess and didn't level like it was supposed to, so there's runs and drips all over. We did out damndest to follow the proper prep and instructions for application but it was drat near impossible.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Have your ever worked with epoxy before

AHH F/UGH
May 25, 2002

Yeah but the problem wasn't really the material, it was the delivery method. It's in squeeze bags and it just made the whole process a huge loving nightmare. I should have just cut the bags open and put it into a paint can and poured it out, the problem was that I wasn't able to get all of it where it needed to be quickly and consistently enough with these unwieldy bags with nozzles. My hands were also insanely cramped and hosed afterwards from all the squeezing. It was way too hard to get all of the material out as quickly as it needed to be.

AHH F/UGH fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Feb 20, 2022

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Interesting, never seen epoxy delivered that way, I know that if you gently caress up the ratios it can often not fully cure, maybe it's distributed that way because you can't trust construction people to measure it by weight? Also also, not sure what additives are in that particular blend, but generally viscosity is greatly impacted by temperature, if you're working in an unheated home in winter that might be an issue

Anyways, that sucks, good luck

KariOhki
Apr 22, 2008
Would like some thoughts on this issue that started with my furnace (gas furnace, installed 2020) - when the heat is not running, a smell sometimes comes out of the vents. It smells sort of like burning plastic, I guess, but it's hard to describe. It's not sulfur-like, so no gas leaks - also tested for this with one of those handheld detectors. It started doing this halfway through winter, so I'd think all the off-season dust would've gone by now. It only seems to happen on colder days. I've had two different companies out to look at the furnace, and both people said that everything looks fine - one turned down the flame level or something thinking some plastic coil inside was overheating too much, but that didn't correct the issue. The smell gets bad enough sometimes that it wakes me up in the middle of the night, and then I need to fiddle with turning the heat on or off and try to make it go away.

Anyone smarter about HVAC stuff got any idea what could be the issue here that I could ask a repair person to check if I decide to call one out again?

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



KariOhki posted:

Would like some thoughts on this issue that started with my furnace (gas furnace, installed 2020) - when the heat is not running, a smell sometimes comes out of the vents. It smells sort of like burning plastic, I guess, but it's hard to describe. It's not sulfur-like, so no gas leaks - also tested for this with one of those handheld detectors. It started doing this halfway through winter, so I'd think all the off-season dust would've gone by now. It only seems to happen on colder days. I've had two different companies out to look at the furnace, and both people said that everything looks fine - one turned down the flame level or something thinking some plastic coil inside was overheating too much, but that didn't correct the issue. The smell gets bad enough sometimes that it wakes me up in the middle of the night, and then I need to fiddle with turning the heat on or off and try to make it go away.

Anyone smarter about HVAC stuff got any idea what could be the issue here that I could ask a repair person to check if I decide to call one out again?

That is a strange one. You mentioned this system was installed 2020. Is there an applicable warranty to have this looked into by a pro? Honestly not sure where to turn other than that.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

KariOhki posted:

Would like some thoughts on this issue that started with my furnace (gas furnace, installed 2020) - when the heat is not running, a smell sometimes comes out of the vents. It smells sort of like burning plastic, I guess, but it's hard to describe. It's not sulfur-like, so no gas leaks - also tested for this with one of those handheld detectors. It started doing this halfway through winter, so I'd think all the off-season dust would've gone by now. It only seems to happen on colder days. I've had two different companies out to look at the furnace, and both people said that everything looks fine - one turned down the flame level or something thinking some plastic coil inside was overheating too much, but that didn't correct the issue. The smell gets bad enough sometimes that it wakes me up in the middle of the night, and then I need to fiddle with turning the heat on or off and try to make it go away.

Anyone smarter about HVAC stuff got any idea what could be the issue here that I could ask a repair person to check if I decide to call one out again?

Definitely not normal. There's a HVAC thread that a couple of HVAC pros frequent that might get you better answers.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3761260&pagenumber=68#lastpost

I too would expect the installing dealer to be troubleshooting the issue under their warranty though.

KariOhki
Apr 22, 2008

Inner Light posted:

That is a strange one. You mentioned this system was installed 2020. Is there an applicable warranty to have this looked into by a pro? Honestly not sure where to turn other than that.

I bought the house in July 2021, so any warranty would've been something the PO did. Would need to dig through my paperwork to see if there was any, but I can't recall off the top of my head, and one of the repair people I called to take a look at it was from the installation company and didn't mention one.

skipdogg posted:

Definitely not normal. There's a HVAC thread that a couple of HVAC pros frequent that might get you better answers.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3761260&pagenumber=68#lastpost

Thanks, I might crosspost there later!

CongoJack
Nov 5, 2009

Ask Why, Asshole
I'm not an expert on hvac at all but if two hvac companies came out and said the furnace is fine that makes me think something in the vent is getting melty when the heat is on.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



I too bought a place with a newly replaced utility, in my case the water heater. I stupidly did not ask for receipts / warranty paperwork before we closed, and after closing the PO ignored the request from my attorney to get the paperwork, so we never will and it effectively won't have a warranty.

With HVAC that is a big deal so I would hope you are able to get the paperwork, in case the warranty is transferable to a new owner which I assume it may be.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Are you smelling this throughout the entire house or just in one or two rooms? And you're only smelling it after the furnace has turned off, not while it is running? Is the circulator fan still running even when the furnace isn't producing heat?

KariOhki
Apr 22, 2008

Sirotan posted:

Are you smelling this throughout the entire house or just in one or two rooms? And you're only smelling it after the furnace has turned off, not while it is running? Is the circulator fan still running even when the furnace isn't producing heat?

Entire house sometimes, like when it wakes me up in the middle of the night it's coming out of the upstairs bedroom vents, but mostly from the vent I sit near all day in my office/computer room. It's also in the basement itself when it's going on, stronger by the furnace.
Yes, only really smell it when the heat isn't running. If the fan is set to on and the heat isn't running, that doesn't help the smell if it's occurring.

CongoJack posted:

I'm not an expert on hvac at all but if two hvac companies came out and said the furnace is fine that makes me think something in the vent is getting melty when the heat is on.

Possible at all it's caused by the CAT5 cable I have running alongside the duct up through this office room vent from my ONT box to my router? Haven't had any internet issues that would say "hey your cable's melting" or anything...

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


KariOhki posted:

Possible at all it's caused by the CAT5 cable I have running alongside the duct up through this office room vent from my ONT box to my router? Haven't had any internet issues that would say "hey your cable's melting" or anything...

heh, that was going to be my very next question, if there is any newly run ethernet cable

Ethernet shouldn't be run through HVAC ducts but if you do use this cheater method it should only go through the cold air returns because yeah, that is probably exactly what you're smelling. I'll assume it isn't plenum rated cable either.

KariOhki
Apr 22, 2008

Sirotan posted:

Ethernet shouldn't be run through HVAC ducts but if you do use this cheater method it should only go through the cold air returns because yeah, that is probably exactly what you're smelling. I'll assume it isn't plenum rated cable either.

Looks like a plain-rear end ethernet cable to me. The return is up at the ceiling level in this room so probably why the hookup guy didn't go up that way, or didn't know this whole stuff cause he's an internet guy and not an HVAC guy - or figured since it's next to the ductwork and not within it it was fine? It was an eventuality that I was (or more likely get someone to, as my 3D spatial sense is awful) drill a hole down the floor or wall to run the cable through instead of up the vent, just been saving up for bigger things like gutter and storm door replacements.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


KariOhki posted:

Looks like a plain-rear end ethernet cable to me. The return is up at the ceiling level in this room so probably why the hookup guy didn't go up that way, or didn't know this whole stuff cause he's an internet guy and not an HVAC guy - or figured since it's next to the ductwork and not within it it was fine? It was an eventuality that I was (or more likely get someone to, as my 3D spatial sense is awful) drill a hole down the floor or wall to run the cable through instead of up the vent, just been saving up for bigger things like gutter and storm door replacements.

I would try to re-run that cable now in some janky temporary fashion so that it isn't going though or along the vent just so you can eliminate as the cause and are no longer breathing in a bunch of noxious fumes while you are sleeping. It might be something else entirely but from your initial post my guess was cable run through a place it shouldn't be.

Running ethernet into a wall box really isn't too hard, assuming your office is on the first floor and you've got basement or crawl space access. I'd recommend running it to a stud bay next to where you've got a power outlet, this may allow you to just measure 6" left or right from where you can see wire going up into the wall space, cut hole in wall, drill up through sill plate, then fish up from below. No complicated math or spatial awareness needed.

KariOhki
Apr 22, 2008

Sirotan posted:

Running ethernet into a wall box really isn't too hard, assuming your office is on the first floor and you've got basement or crawl space access. I'd recommend running it to a stud bay next to where you've got a power outlet, this may allow you to just measure 6" left or right from where you can see wire going up into the wall space, cut hole in wall, drill up through sill plate, then fish up from below. No complicated math or spatial awareness needed.

Noticed I had a flat wall plate next to two of the outlets in that corner...took it off the wall and found an old coax cable tucked away that's coming out of a hole from somewhere. If it's the basement, I don't know, there's lots of cables running along this wall that go a lot of places and I don't have the right sorts of tools to go wire fishing. Nor the bendability or reach to look behind the furnace to see properly - can't even see exactly where the ethernet cable is currently running.
Would this be a general handyman job, or would an electrician be better to have this run?

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
The finished product:


Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Checks watch...

7 weeks for a 30 day job :monocle:

Nice car collection though, looks sharp

MrLogan
Feb 4, 2004

That's not an e-class wagon!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Residency Evil posted:

The finished product:




:golfclap:

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Anyone have any tips for drilling into EIFS stucco? Like everyone says OMG make sure you read the manufacturers instructions or you'll ruin your house but how the hell am I supposed to know who made this crap and aren't they probably all the same anyway like I assume I just drill it and seal it with something and I'm probably fine right

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Cross posted from the tools thread.

I did an unmentionable thing today. I defied all logic and purchased an electric chainsaw from harbor freight for one purpose; remove the stump from my side yard. I wasn't about to use my nice husky to do such a thing. I needed a sacrificial tool. Renting a stump grinder was a hassle and getting it close enough to the stump would be tricky with the fence. It seemed small enough that hiring someone for just this stump seemed trivial.

I dug it down as much as I could. One was $40ish and the other was $66 and their "Bauer" line. I purchased the better of the two offerings.

It cut surprisingly well. I didn't expect that. I honestly didn't expect it to stay together. It didn't seem like it was oiling the bar enough. It was a weird feeling to defy everything I've ever learned about using a saw and plunging it into a dirty stump, occasionally sparking on rocks. I split it vertically and then was able to access the three main roots. I had to sharpen the blade three times but it got the job done. I took it apart and cleaned it really well afterwards and will probably give it to a buddy who has no tools, or continue to use it as a sacrificial saw. I'm not going to lie, I was impressed. It's amazing how they can make a decent chainsaw, ship it from China, sell it here for $66, and still make a profit. Next, I'll probably use it to chop that awful wooden ladder to bits.

I realize I don't have a photo of the stump.




Tunicate
May 15, 2012

Verman posted:

I did an unmentionable thing today. I defied all logic and purchased an electric chainsaw from harbor freight

...

I don't have a photo of the stump.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


KariOhki posted:

Noticed I had a flat wall plate next to two of the outlets in that corner...took it off the wall and found an old coax cable tucked away that's coming out of a hole from somewhere. If it's the basement, I don't know, there's lots of cables running along this wall that go a lot of places and I don't have the right sorts of tools to go wire fishing. Nor the bendability or reach to look behind the furnace to see properly - can't even see exactly where the ethernet cable is currently running.
Would this be a general handyman job, or would an electrician be better to have this run?

A handyman who has experience pulling and terminating data cables can tackle this kind of job. I wouldn't automatically assume an electrician could do the same thing unless they tell you. Depending on where you live you may also be able to find some cable technicians/low voltage wiring technicians who specialize in these types of jobs, that's who I'd try to find first.

KariOhki
Apr 22, 2008
The entire basement had the smell all yesterday, so I called another technician out today. Turns out there was a miniscule leak this entire time from one of the valves! Small enough where it wouldn't have tripped normal gas testers, he brought in a stronger one to poke around with. Why the first two people didn't run testers, I don't know.

~$900 to get it fixed but it's worth it to not explode (also about the warranty, found the paperwork, says it doesn't transfer between owners, but asked the guy if he could try pulling some strings). Gas line to the furnace is turned off until it's fixed, thankfully it's warm for a few more days here.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Dishwasher troubleshooting:

So over the past 2 or so weeks, our dishwasher has started to leave chalky white reside on the dishes. Not a ton, and it wipes off easily, but it's there.

Google says this is likely calcium deposits from internal buildup, and can be fixed by running vinegar through. We've done that, and it helps for a few cycles, but then it comes back. We did it a second time with similar results. And to be sure, we did clean the filter before we even tried vinegar.

Possibly connected, but a few times when we've opened it after a cycle we've noticed sudsy water still in the bottom. Not like super soapy, but small bubbles... you can hear them fizz as they pop. Don't think this was like this before, but we didn't used to get to opening it soon after a cycle, so this may not be new.

We use the same detergent and the same rinse aid as we always have... unless this coincided with a new package of pods maybe, but I can't remember if that's connected or not.

Thoughts? What's our next step here?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Could be your local water company switched their supply from well to lake, or vice versa

Every summer in Texas the lake water would invert about may and the water quality would drop way off and smell like rear end as the rotting fish bones etc at the bottom got disturbed and rotated towards the surface

Remote chance, but don't assume your water is always the same coming out of the pipe year round

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Didn't think of that... I know there's a local lake/reservoir that they pull most of the water from, but I don't know if they have alternate sources or not. That said, I just checked and we're not in drought, and the lake level is normal, so doesn't seem like there's cause to switch.

The one thing I do know happens is they usually switch the disinfection chemicals this time of year, but I saw an announcement recently and that isn't happening for a few days yet. I dunno if there's something they do ahead of time that may have had an impact, but it's never happened before.

And that's the thing, we've been in this house 6 years and never had this happen that I recall, so unless there was a big change this doesn't seem to be a seasonal thing.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Just spit balling here but it could be that there is so much Ca buildup that it will take many runs with vinegar to actually clean it back to "new".

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
I'm moving the clothes washer and dryer to the 2nd floor, trying to figure out the best way to route the new drain to the basement. Running down inside this little wall is one option. I'm thinking I could cut out a panel of drywall from the counter to the ceiling and feed sections of ABS up and down. Unfortunately there's a corner style built-in on the other side so I couldn't take a floor to ceiling panel out on that side (plus that side is plaster/mesh/lath, an even bigger PITA). Pretty good access in the basement, tight in the 2nd floor since it's pretty close to the exterior wall and the roofline angles in there.

Good idea? Bad idea? Not enough information?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

spf3million posted:

I'm moving the clothes washer and dryer to the 2nd floor, trying to figure out the best way to route the new drain to the basement. Running down inside this little wall is one option. I'm thinking I could cut out a panel of drywall from the counter to the ceiling and feed sections of ABS up and down. Unfortunately there's a corner style built-in on the other side so I couldn't take a floor to ceiling panel out on that side (plus that side is plaster/mesh/lath, an even bigger PITA). Pretty good access in the basement, tight in the 2nd floor since it's pretty close to the exterior wall and the roofline angles in there.

Good idea? Bad idea? Not enough information?

I did this.

Expect to cut out a full bay of drywall for your plumbing rough on that floor and the floor below. And if you're doing that you may as well do a full sheet, and make your life easier on electrical rough and the dryer vent. Don't forget that you need to put in a trap and a vent out of the ceiling. It's a good time to add a floor drain if you can too.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Durr forgot to upload the photo of the potential wall.



e:

StormDrain posted:

I did this.

Expect to cut out a full bay of drywall for your plumbing rough on that floor and the floor below. And if you're doing that you may as well do a full sheet, and make your life easier on electrical rough and the dryer vent. Don't forget that you need to put in a trap and a vent out of the ceiling. It's a good time to add a floor drain if you can too.
Unfortunately it's not a clean wall to cut out on the first floor.

The second floor is unfinished so fortunately no drywall cutting needed up there. Plenty of room for a p-trap and tying into another vent will be relatively straight forward. Won't need to add a roof penetration. And the dryer will be a ventless heat pump dryer so fortunately no gas and outlet ducting either. Just the dang drain is proving harder than I thought.

spf3million fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Feb 23, 2022

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

spf3million posted:

Durr forgot to upload the photo of the potential wall.



e:

Unfortunately it's not a clean wall to cut out on the first floor.

The second floor is unfinished so fortunately no drywall cutting needed up there. Plenty of room for a p-trap and tying into another vent will be relatively straight forward. Won't need to add a roof penetration. And the dryer will be a ventless heat pump dryer so fortunately no gas and outlet ducting either. Just the dang drain is proving harder than I thought.

The pic helps I get it now. I'd absolutely try to just feed up and down with pipe if it's just passing through. You'll likely need a joint behind that length of drywall since geometry prevents you from running a long enough pipe up or down through there.

Your pain points are probably just cutting the holes in the sill and head of that wall from he opposite sides. And you could probably remove enough drywall to drill the head of the wall up from the kitchen.

FYI, having lived this second floor bedroom and washer dryer life for four years now, it rules. My clothes stay upstairs unless I'm wearing them. Saturdays I take my hamper around the corner, start some laundry, go downstairs for coffee and breakfast, somehow I am done with everything by noon. The only better setup is having them in your master closet. Or having an assistant to do it.

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spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

StormDrain posted:

The pic helps I get it now. I'd absolutely try to just feed up and down with pipe if it's just passing through. You'll likely need a joint behind that length of drywall since geometry prevents you from running a long enough pipe up or down through there.

Your pain points are probably just cutting the holes in the sill and head of that wall from he opposite sides. And you could probably remove enough drywall to drill the head of the wall up from the kitchen.
The sill appears to be two 2x4s sandwiched together. Am I risking anything drilling a 2-9/16" hole in the 2x4" sill?

StormDrain posted:

FYI, having lived this second floor bedroom and washer dryer life for four years now, it rules. My clothes stay upstairs unless I'm wearing them. Saturdays I take my hamper around the corner, start some laundry, go downstairs for coffee and breakfast, somehow I am done with everything by noon. The only better setup is having them in your master closet. Or having an assistant to do it.
Very much looking forward to not lugging laundry up and down the stairs.

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