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So, I'm experiencing the magic that is the x570 usb disconnect thing. Only really seems to happen when I'm doing a backup via a USB->SATA adapter. Trying various options, but a)is there any backup software that can throttle itself when writing to a drive? Many of them can do it for a network connection or b)is there any way to rate-limit a usb-attached drive
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Feb 17, 2022 11:16
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Kerbtree posted:So, I'm experiencing the magic that is the x570 usb disconnect thing. E: Yeah I also have an x570 board with no USB problems. I just put whatever BIOS was new back when I got my 3700x and haven't had any reason to mess with it after getting RAM timings right. Some of its BIOS updates have "Fix USB 2.0 devices stability and compatibility", but it's many versions after mine so maybe it was just something that crept into later AGESA versions. I have a little Samsung USB > SATA thing with no external power that came with an SSD, and SSDs and lower power/newer drives are fine with it, but even just an older full height 2.5" platter drive is an issue with it sometimes. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Feb 17, 2022 |
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Feb 17, 2022 19:31
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I have an x570 but haven't run into any issues with the USB. Have you done the standard USB troubleshooting like try a USB 2.0 port, back versus front port, different cable, etc? Also Lowclock posted:Aren't BIOS updates supposed to fix this? It also might just be a power issue if it's one of those cheap adapters without an external supply.
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Feb 17, 2022 20:26
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Funnily enough, this is a powered adapter and I’m fully updated. It works perfectly connected to my laptop and behaves itself reading/writing small stuff on the drive.
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Feb 18, 2022 10:38
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iirc folks have had success in some cases with disabling global c-states in the BIOS. Worth a try, maybe?
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Feb 18, 2022 11:24
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So, uh, we had a power outage in the middle of the night last night. Big windstorm, a pole got knocked over somewhere. Power's back on now, but my (home-built) desktop will not boot. Everything else in my office works. I unplugged the PC and plugged something else in where it had been. That thing worked. So the outlet isn't the problem. This outlet was in a surge protector (which, again, is apparently still working). Did a power surge get past the surge protector and fry my computer and only my computer without even damaging the surge protector? Is that possible? If not, what else could be causing it? If the PC is fried, do I need to replace the whole thing or just the power source? I have work today and haven't really had the opportunity to like crack it open and see if anything is obviously charred and smoking or whatever yet.
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Feb 18, 2022 16:03
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Oh god I just realized that if this PC in fact never boots again and I can't transfer my old Windows license from it I'm gonna have to buy another Windows license too aren't I This sucks
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Feb 18, 2022 16:25
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loquacius posted:Oh god I just realized that if this PC in fact never boots again and I can't transfer my old Windows license from it I'm gonna have to buy another Windows license too aren't I If the hard drive is fine, then you can just move the hard drive over to a new computer and the license should still be ok.
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Feb 18, 2022 16:39
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You can get a Windows 7 key for a fiver from SAMart that will activate Windows 10. Or an actual key for under $20. That's if you've lost your own old key and it's proven the drive doesn't work anymore. It's not worth worrying about.
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Feb 18, 2022 16:39
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loquacius posted:So, uh, we had a power outage in the middle of the night last night. Big windstorm, a pole got knocked over somewhere. Power's back on now, but my (home-built) desktop will not boot. First, try a replacement power supply. If that doesn't get it working then you can look at replacing other components. If the machine was off when the surge happened then there's a good chance the power supply is the only thing that took damage. If not then it could be more, but you'll need a new power supply to put together a new PC anyway so it's worth replacing as a first step. Since it's a common issue, I'll just mention that if you are replacing one modular power supply with another, do not try to reuse the old modular cables. They aren't standardized and you can fry components with the wrong ones.
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Feb 18, 2022 16:44
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Rexxed posted:First, try a replacement power supply. If that doesn't get it working then you can look at replacing other components. If the machine was off when the surge happened then there's a good chance the power supply is the only thing that took damage. If not then it could be more, but you'll need a new power supply to put together a new PC anyway so it's worth replacing as a first step. Right, that makes sense. The machine was definitely on when the outage happened, but step 1 would be a new power supply. I'll look into that. Thanks
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Feb 18, 2022 16:47
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Not entirely sure where to ask this. If I wanted to add Bluetooth to my PC what would be the best way of going about that? Current motherboard (ASRock b450 steel legend) doesn't have it built in and I'd like to not have wires running to and from my PC for controllers and headsets.
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Feb 18, 2022 21:03
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Bumper Stickup posted:Not entirely sure where to ask this. If I wanted to add Bluetooth to my PC what would be the best way of going about that? Current motherboard (ASRock b450 steel legend) doesn't have it built in and I'd like to not have wires running to and from my PC for controllers and headsets. Buy a USB dongle. They are ubiquitous
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Feb 18, 2022 21:06
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TP-Link USB Bluetooth Adapter for PC(UB400), 4.0 Bluetooth Dongle Receiver Support Windows 11/10/8.1/8/7/XP for Desktop, Laptop, Mouse, Keyboard, Printers, Headsets, Speakers, PS4/ Xbox Controllers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1SZCY6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_EESMV0FJH811Z9NKRD0D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Something like this
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Feb 18, 2022 21:07
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those used to suck quite badly, have they improved? i swore by the kind with an antenna back years ago
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Feb 18, 2022 21:20
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I’ve got a couple of them that work fine. Windows 10 will even let you play audio from your phone via them with nowadays. Software Required: https://github.com/ysc3839/AudioPlaybackConnector
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Feb 19, 2022 00:44
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I have that exact tp link Bluetooth dongle and haven't had any issues with it. I use it for Xbox and PS4 controllers without a hiccup. It had decent range too, I can play from the other room if I want.
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Feb 19, 2022 04:28
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I thought there was a thread for this but I looked and couldn't find it. What's the deal with UPSs these days? Do you still need to spend like a grand to get something decent or are those $80 Amazon jobs capable of dealing with power fluctuations without detonating hardware? I'm not talking about high end gaming PCs here, I'm asking for some friends who have a small business and need to keep 3 or 4 PCs running in the office.
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Feb 20, 2022 05:05
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I have several of the inexpensive ones and they were able to keep things running during multiple power outages (yay Texas). I upgraded my main one to a nicer higher capacity sine-wave system recently because I needed the extra wattage and runtime offered. It was still only ~$200. I would suggest that they go around with a kill-a-watt or other power measuring device to see how much power they are pulling. An office PC should be able to run a pretty decent amount of time on a basic UPS, but something that's running hard rendering is going to only have a couple minutes. One thing to note is that power supplies with active power factor correction can freak out basic UPSes, and you need to size the UPS significantly larger than you'd think to handle the inrush during power transfer.
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Feb 20, 2022 05:37
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I've tried Belkin, APC, and CyberPower for UPSes. Of those, the APC and CyberPower have been totally fine and reliable over multiple years of use. The Belkins were trash that float charged their batteries to oblivion in less than a year every time. A 1500VA can handle an average high end gaming machine (500-750w) for maybe 5-8 minutes at full load, which should be more than long enough to shut down safely. At idle loading (~100-200w) it would be more like 15-25 minutes. The other thing to keep in mind is the VA rating is somewhat stupid marketing nonsense, somewhere down lower in the spec sheets they will list an actual output capacity in watts which is the real amount of power the unit can deliver. Most 1500VA units can only deliver around 800-900W. 1000VA units typically cannot handle more than 600W. The VA (volt-amps) rating is basically real watts divided by a power factor, so say you have a device that requires 100W and it has a power factor of 0.85, it would require 100W/0.85 = 117.65VA. Note that PC power supplies with PFC typically have a power factor of .98 to .99, so basically they consume almost the same amount of watts as they do volt-amps. What this means is if you hit full load on a 1000W PC PSU with active PFC, it would definitely make even a 1500VA UPS poo poo itself and shutdown from its overcurrent protection in response. Using a kill-a-watt to measure your actual wattage at idle and at load is a good idea, just remember it is measuring "real" power in watts, which means the number on the UPS spec sheet you need to compare is that actual output capacity in watts. The kill-a-watt can also show you the VA of an attached load, but in modern setups most of your load is going to have PFC and a nearly perfect power factor, so you will most likely hit the limit of watts from a UPS before you even begin to approach the limit in VA.
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Feb 20, 2022 14:46
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Kind of related to the bluetooth stuff, anyone know if there's anything better for wifi+BT on an older AMD based system with only a half-size mini PCIe slot? The "best" thing I could seem to find was an Intel 7260, and that's almost older than the laptop. It looks like mini-PCIe to m.2 adapters are purely passive, so as long as it's something PCIe and not Intel's weird CNVi stuff it should work just fine, right? I'm trying to avoid USB stuff for packaging reasons.
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Feb 21, 2022 19:00
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Couldn't decide whether gpu or monitor thread was better so I'm trying here. I have a 144hz gsynch monitor. If there's a game that's capped at, or if I just want to cap at, 60fps should I lower the monitor's refresh rate to 120 so that the game is running at exactly half? Or does that not matter with the whole variable refresh rate thing? a kitten fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Feb 21, 2022 |
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Feb 21, 2022 19:40
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a kitten posted:Couldn't decide whether gpu or monitor thread was better so I'm trying here. As long as you have g-sync enabled on the monitor in the Nvidia control panel it doesn't matter, the monitor and GPU will take care of it and only refresh when a new frame is drawn.
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Feb 21, 2022 19:56
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Lowclock posted:Kind of related to the bluetooth stuff, anyone know if there's anything better for wifi+BT on an older AMD based system with only a half-size mini PCIe slot? The "best" thing I could seem to find was an Intel 7260, and that's almost older than the laptop. It looks like mini-PCIe to m.2 adapters are purely passive, so as long as it's something PCIe and not Intel's weird CNVi stuff it should work just fine, right? I'm trying to avoid USB stuff for packaging reasons. edit: AX210 should work OK. future ghost fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Feb 22, 2022 |
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Feb 21, 2022 21:10
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future ghost posted:I'm not sure if a passive adapter would work or not, but if it does then you could go with an AX200 card (WIFI6) or a cheaper 9260 card but you'll be limited to 5ghz AC with that. I'm limited to a 9560 on my Precision laptop at it has initial CNVi spec and 9260 on the older Latitude.
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Feb 21, 2022 21:28
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Shifty Pony posted:As long as you have g-sync enabled on the monitor in the Nvidia control panel it doesn't matter, the monitor and GPU will take care of it and only refresh when a new frame is drawn. That's what I thought, but wasn't sure enough to stop wondering. Thank you
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Feb 21, 2022 21:40
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In any temp monitors I've used, my mobo temps have read anywhere between 105-118c, even when idle. It's been like that a while, so I feel like it's obviously incorrect. Could my bios need updating or something like that? My mobo is an Asus Prime H270 plus with an i7 7700. Is there anything I can or should do or just ignore it and keep an eye on the cpu/gpu temps? Another temp question, I was testing the RTX3060 I installed in W3, with everything on ultra and the frames uncapped. It ran well, but the CPU got up to a max temp of 81c. I capped the frames back down to 60 and it hit a max of 74c then. Are those temps anything to worry about? It stays around 35-40c when I'm just browsing online or whatever. The mobo/cpu combo is getting old and also has been in 2 different computers, maybe the thermal paste is getting dry. I plan on upgrading these things in a couple months anyway, so if 80c is acceptable, I'd rather not mess with putting new thermal paste on or whatever. Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Feb 22, 2022 |
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Feb 22, 2022 05:34
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:In any temp monitors I've used, my mobo temps have read anywhere between 105-118c, even when idle. It's been like that a while, so I feel like it's obviously incorrect. Could my bios need updating or something like that? My mobo is an Asus Prime H270 plus with an i7 7700. Is there anything I can or should do or just ignore it and keep an eye on the cpu/gpu temps? 80C on the CPU isn't dangerous, but it is unusually high for a gaming load. If the CPU is that high when gaming, then I wouldn't be surprised if the rest of your system temps were high as well. If those motherboard sensors are reading the VRM, then 100+ isn't outside the realm of possibility. I've seen similarly high temperatures on especially lovely motherboards with bad VRMs while in a low-airflow chassis. I see that particular board has a VRM heatsink, but those are often useless, and with only six phases there could still be heat issues, especially if it's a thin PCB with a lot of resistance. Or it could just be an inaccurate sensor, it's hard to say for sure. If it is real, then it's possible that the VRMs are thermal throttling and your CPU isn't getting as much power as it's asking for (yes, this can happen). What kind of case do you have, and what's the fan arrangement? edit: Other people have observed anomalous readings in their Asus Prime H270 too: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/motherboard-high-temperature-115c.3313098/ https://www.reddit.com/r/iBUYPOWER/comments/7ucoxx/bb930_prime_h270plus_overheating/ So it could just be an incorrect reading. Even a bad motherboard shouldn't overheat at idle. Though as an example for why I had my suspicions, see this video. VRMs with little to no airflow can get hot. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Feb 22, 2022 |
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Feb 22, 2022 07:22
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For the cpu temps, I'm curious if the case is that bad, or if it's a poorly installed CPU cooler/old paste/bad cooler (or all of the above). I also wouldn't be surprised if moving the mobo without removing the cooler had negative consequences.
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Feb 22, 2022 08:42
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My case is basically an older version of this. Imagine the non mesh, glass side one, but with normal metal sides. https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-4000D-Tempered-Glass-Mid-Tower/dp/B08C7CJ8XZ?th=1 When I get home from work later I can take pictures of everything in there. Also if my mobo was getting up to 118c wouldn't my m.2 drive get some highish temps too? Its sitting around 30c right now after idling all night while all the mobo temps say 111-118c right this second. e: Oh when I was gaming yesterday and getting the 80c cpu temps, my fans did seem to be acting a little strange. Imagine them jumping from low to full power and back quicker than they should like a car revving up, rather than just kicking on for a bit. Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Feb 22, 2022 |
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Feb 22, 2022 11:28
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Here is the inside of my pc. I'm not an expert, but I'm going to take a guess that if I get some duster and blow the dust out, then take the front fan and move it up to the top slot so it can actually blow air toward my cpu without that big rear end graphics card blocking most of it, that will most likely make a significant difference. e: This case does have a mesh front, you can take the front piece off. There's also a lot of dust in the mesh. e: Looking at the fan, I figured out the front comes off the case, and well, I found the cooling problem. 
Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Feb 23, 2022 |
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Feb 22, 2022 23:56
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Here is the inside of my pc. Aside from the sweater you ended up with blocking the fan, I'd definitely want another intake fan on the front. Right now it looks like you have more exhaust than intake (even if the front fan was clear) which is going to result in negative pressure and encourage dust build up. Two intake with one exhaust should help push you toward positive pressure, which should make it less of a dust magnet.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:14
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Anyone know what size that fan is off hand? So I can order another. I did move the one fan up to the top to blow over the top of the GPU. The GPU itself has 2 of it's own fans, so I think it getting a little less air on the bottom should be fine until I get that 2nd intake fan. Luckily the screen part came off too, so I was able to clean it off in the sink and get it back to 100%. Will it help or hurt if I leave my front metal piece off so the front is just the screen? e: Haven't gamed yet, but my cpu is idling at 33c now instead of the steady 35c before that I think it was. Will test Witcher out again later. Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Feb 23, 2022 |
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Feb 23, 2022 00:19
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Should be 120mm. Arctic P12s are a typical recommendation for fans. Cause they're cheap but decent. https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-P12-120-Pressure-optimised-Quiet-Computer/dp/B07GB5JRTZ?th=1 (maybe get the daisy chain version if you're low on mobo fan connector slots. There are also 5 pack bundles.) I'd also consider buying the mesh front panel. It's constantly OOS though https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/4000D-Airflow-Front-Panel%2C-Black/p/CC-8900440 (check for sure you have the right case) Rinkles fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Feb 23, 2022 |
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Feb 23, 2022 00:23
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e: nevermind, missed that your case is like the 4000D not literally the 4000D
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Feb 23, 2022 00:28
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And yeah that's a tiny CPU cooler. If you bought a new cooler, you could very likely use it in your new build down line, if that's something you want to bother with now. Might need to buy a new mounting bracket when you upgrade, though (usually around $10).
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Feb 23, 2022 00:28
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I was planning on buying that cpu/mobo combo recommended to me in about 1 or 2 more months. I think it was the i5 12400. I will need to buy a heatsink for that though I think.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:30
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repiv posted:e: nevermind, missed that your case is like the 4000D not literally the 4000D no, I'm pretty sure it was 4000d, I just don't see them offering the exact version I have anymore, that had metal sides on both and a metal front piece. The insides and everything look identical.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:31
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Rinkles posted:And yeah that's a tiny CPU cooler. If you bought a new cooler, you could very likely use it in your new build down line, if that's something you want to bother with now. Might need to buy a new mounting bracket when you upgrade, though (usually around $10). Agreed. A tower cooler blowing back toward the exhaust fan would improve airflow a lot, too. I've gotten to be pretty biased against CPU coolers with that downward fan arrangement, and I've gotten used to gigantic air coolers - mine is the second biggest thing my case next to my GPU.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:32
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:no, I'm pretty sure it was 4000d, I just don't see them offering the exact version I have anymore, that had metal sides on both and a metal front piece. The insides and everything look identical. If it's actually the 4000D my post was that it comes with a 120mm in the front but can accommodate a pair of 140mms instead  So for best results I'd get rid of the included fan and get a pair of Arctic P14s instead https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F14-PWM-PST-Technology/dp/B08QNCMQDL
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Feb 23, 2022 00:34
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