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Inner Light posted:I'm just imagining someone happily detailing away spraying down the interior with a hose and the doors open lol.
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Feb 18, 2022 20:53
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Hadlock posted:We declined gap insurance on our car as we plan on keeping it beyond the term of our loan, also we don't have a history of wrecking our cars, and also also, could absorb the ~$1500 deficit on the off chance that happened When I wrecked my old car shortly after I got it, I immediately wished I had gone for the gap coverage. Insurance paid for it, even though in the end it cost several thousand more than the estimate and took a month to fix, I bet they had wished they had totaled it in the end. EDIT: THat was the only time I crashed a car in my then, 17 years of driving.
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Feb 18, 2022 20:59
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I've got some follow-up questions about negotiations involving the Pacifica I put a $500 deposit in (that's still being built). Most of it goes to me being an idiot who expected a car dealer to negotiate in good faith. I want to make sure my course of action given the circumstances is reasonable. Quick backstory: - Found one and only one dealer that has the car we want. They know this. The car isn't available but near the end of being built. While at the dealer (an hour away): - I was not given a copy of the printout of the price to bring home. - There is a doc fee of (if I recall correctly) $625 or so - There is a price of ~700ish for etching and a software update that changes the way the brake lights behave. They say they do this to all their cars. - In regards to financing, they took maybe an hour to "crunch the numbers" then came back with a grid showing monthly payments based on term and down payment, with no other information. We were not given our own copy. I was told I could refinance after four months without a penalty, but no details above and beyond that. - I put in $500 to secure the vehicle but was not given any documentation to verify what the payment was for - Like an idiot, I brought my pregnant wife with me and told them I wanted this specific car before the due date. Also, like an idiot, I came in with the VIN and stated that this was the only car in a 3 state radius that had what I wanted and was scheduled to go to them. I called them the next day - Since the car was still being built I asked if it was at the point of the process to change the color. The answer was that the only way to handle this would be to order a new car which would take some time out. No big deal. I can keep the current color. - I then mentioned that since the car was still being built I wanted to pass on the etching and the software update. I get they want extra money due to a premium, but I see changing the brake lights to pulse instead of being solid when pushed is a safety issue. People drive their whole lives and work off muscle memory. Thye don't think, the act. A brake light that doesn't behave normally requires processing for people to understand, which is a bad thing, and I don't want to put myself in that situation. The answer was "those come installed by the time they reach our floor" and cannot be undone. This seems fishy to me. - I asked for details on the paperwork for the numbers they used to calculate the monthly payments. Origination fees, APR, and other general terms. I was told this can only be provided in person and they can only give me the paperwork in person. They explained this is because they don't know what my credits scores will end up or what the rates will be. This is bizarre to me for a variety of reasons, such as the fact they already provided that sheet before based on assumptions. The only reason I can think of is that they'll try and draw out the process so I give in and not read because of fatigue and desperation. This is shady as hell and really didn't sit well with me. On top of that, if they gave me a projected monthly payment based on an expected credit rating, why can they not give me the basic information of how it was calculated, like the amount paid in interest/principal/etc? When I told them I'll just finance on my own or pay cash, they told me there will be a $900 fee if I don't finance with them. Takeaway - I'll just eat the hidden fees so long as they aren't more than $3000, then go to a mechanic to perform a factory reset on the software of the vehicle so it's safe to drive and to clear out the dealer-specific crap. Past that point losing a $500 deposit wouldn't matter. - The above includes eating the $900 fee to finance on my own, because I no longer belive they are working in good faith. I'dr rather pay the fee upfront and not have the unexpected happen due to some BS in page 999 of small print. - I really need to have, in writing, the actual end cost of the car to make sure it is what we agreed to there and they don't slip anything in. I figure flat out telling them I'm financing the car on my own and need the numbers now to get it done. If they insist I need it in person, I'll take the printout and make a couple round trips. It'll waste a lot of my time, but the important part is that I won't be beholden to any dealer-type drama once the deal is done and won't need to see them again. - Without a contract stating why I paid the $500 I'm wondering if they could just sell the car out from under me anyhow, but that's less of an issue. Are my concerns and reactions reasonable? Any suggestions? diadem fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 17:26
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$700 partially for a software update to change what the brake lights do? How is this poo poo legal, dealers can’t go away fast enough. I would complain to Chrysler, can’t believe they would be ok with the way that was explained. I also goddamn hate brake lights that pulse 15 times in front of me when the pedal is pushed. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 17:29
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Inner Light posted:$700 partially for a software update to change what the brake lights do? How is this poo poo legal, dealers can’t go away fast enough. I would complain to Honda, can’t believe they would be ok with the way that was explained. I was considering contacting Chrysler. Making a car less safe could hinder the car's statistics, which in turn could in turn generate reputational risk. If this hurts sales more than the effort to resolve and loss of good will with he cash cow dealerships, they may help resolve this. Plus you raise a good point. I live in the Boston area and don't want my tires slashed. Traffic can be stop and go, and you can be behind someone for a while, and road rage is a thing. edit: To clarify, the $700 is out of memory so it may be a little more or less. On account of not actually having a physical copy of the sheet. diadem fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 17:34
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AreWeDrunkYet posted:So unfortunately it looks like I am not going to have a choice about buying a car in this market pretty much asap (currently in a rental). Update: Yikes, the market is as crazy as everyone says it is. Found an CR-V EX actually in stock reasonably close to MSRP purchase price after a non-negotiable dealer package, though only in a premium color I didn't care about. It was still at least $1,500 cheaper than any other dealership I called within 100 miles, and that was for the few cars in transit with delivery in March. The only other ones in stock were $4-5k above MSRP at dealers who weren't entertaining other offers. I'm preapproved for the purchase amount from a credit union at 1.99%, the dealership is advertising 2.9%. Is there any benefit to asking the dealership if they can match that rate? AreWeDrunkYet fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 17:40
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diadem posted:I was considering contacting Chrysler. Making a car less safe could hinder the car's statistics, which in turn could in turn generate reputational risk. If this hurts sales more than the effort to resolve and loss of good will with he cash cow dealerships, they may help resolve this. From my understanding, most dealers will almost never give you a price in writing other than what's on the website. Also, I think you're psyching yourself up too much about the fees. Dealers are scum and add fees as a negotiating tactic, but for you the only thing that should matter is the out-the-door price of the car and that it has the features you want, who gives a poo poo if the dealer wants to divide the price in 20 different items? I'll make an exception for poo poo that could actually harm the car, like the dealer that tried to bill me 400 bucks for a glorified Lojack that they used to chase down people that didn't keep with their payments or something.
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Feb 20, 2022 17:40
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diadem posted:Takeaway You can still get your deposit back and you probably should and walk away. How important is that specific Chrysler Pacifica to you? Some thoughts: VIN etching is a common scam dealerships pull and you should not pay for it. I've never heard of reprogramming brake lights but same deal. Specific details about financing rates can change up to maybe a month or two before the car is delivered (because manufacturer incentives and financing can change) but if a dealership is only giving you payment amounts and no other details, run the gently caress away because you're about to be scammed. Any dealership that won't let you finance externally is trying to pull one over on you. Here's what's happening - they want the kickback for getting you into a poo poo loan. That takes a few months. They're making up terrible terms for you so you have to take a loan with horrible terms and then hold on to it until they get their kickback. A dealership that isn't trying to screw you will let you get your own financing and a loan that isn't a total scam will have no fees for early payment even on day one. Do not buy a car from that dealership they have every single red flag Find a different car you want. Negotiate on the price only - no financing talk no timeframe demands, make it clear the price you want out the door, all in. Make it as ambiguous as possible how you are actually going to pay. Focus on the out the door costs. Once you get to a number you're happy with, put a deposit on that number and make sure it's all in writing. Then go secure your own financing from a bank or credit union. When it comes time to figure out financing, use that as leverage to say "hey I have financing on these terms can you do better?" Focus on rates and terms not monthly payments. Remember that you can walk and get all your money back literally until the moment you sign the loan paperwork. TL;DR: do not pay thousands over MSRP for a loving Chrysler minivan that the dealer hosed with! If you aren't comfortable negotiating, go on leasehackr and pay a broker $300-500 to find you a car and do it for you. KillHour fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 18:16
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It'd be non binding in both directions but for the convenience of everybody involved you should usually walk out with a purchasing agreement with an expected invoice if you're putting money down and signing up for an in transit or factory delivery. They're welcome to slide in their margin bullshit at signing, and you're also welcome to walk away with your deposit back no matter how much either party would try to pretend its a binding contract. But its at least a good faith document on either parties' side that they aren't going to get into a huge argument on day of delivery so everyone is incentivized to agree to it and stick with it. "That's impossible, private info subject to change" is a good sign their business model is dumb bullshit invoice torpedoes. There's truth in loaning/it actually can be binding on the financing side reasons why you wouldn't see much about financing in a PA but you should also have a pretty good idea of what the financing discussions should be like on the day of as well if only because you walked in with your own quotes.AreWeDrunkYet posted:Update:
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Feb 20, 2022 19:17
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KillHour posted:You can still get your deposit back and you probably should and walk away. How important is that specific Chrysler Pacifica to you? Thanks. Your reply was quite helpful. I just want a Pacifica with AWD that can self-park. Any limited that doesn't have the safety sphere deleted can do that (the deletion of the safety sphere is the hard part - seems to be happening a lot). Everything else is gravy. How badly I want one $3,000 over MSRP (I want one pretty badly). - Going to go through my credit union to get the financing through them. Did this with 3 cars before and am very happy with my credit union. - Going to scour for other dealers that have a car with those two features. - I'll use that website if necessary. But if my extended family isn't with me, it's easier to play hardball. Also, now that my wife gets what's up, she can be a bit of a force of nature when called for. The toddler and others are going to stay home next time though. Edit: obviously going to get walk away from the scummy dealer now diadem fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Feb 21, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 19:39
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The nice thing about a broker is they can order you a car from somewhere else and get it shipped. That would be cheaper than overpaying for a local one. You also get all the details upfront and they buy a lot of cars so they're going to get better deals than you probably will. I can't think of a reason you would need AWD near Boston. It's pretty flat there. I don't know if that increases availability any but maybe consider it. KillHour fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 20:46
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Run the gently caress away from that dealer.
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Feb 20, 2022 20:54
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KillHour posted:The nice thing about a broker is they can order you a car from somewhere else and get it shipped. That would be cheaper than overpaying for a local one. You also get all the details upfront and they buy a lot of cars so they're going to get better deals than you probably will. Are there any recommended brokers, or are they something you need to find at a local level, in this case the NYC area? Learning about the current car buying environment and dealer tactics makes it clear I WILL get fleeced if I try to do it myself, so paying a broker probably won't increase the overall cost.
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Feb 20, 2022 21:01
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Nocturtle posted:Are there any recommended brokers, or are they something you need to find at a local level, in this case the NYC area? Learning about the current car buying environment and dealer tactics makes it clear I WILL get fleeced if I try to do it myself, so paying a broker probably won't increase the overall cost. Check leasehackr. The one I used only does BMW but that's where I found him. You don't have to pay them until they found a car and you agree to buy it so it's a win-win.
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Feb 20, 2022 21:03
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diadem posted:I've got some follow-up questions about negotiations involving the Pacifica I put a $500 deposit in (that's still being built). Jesus Christ. Quote this post in the OP and refer everyone to it. I wouldn't buy a car from these people, period. Inner Light posted:$700 partially for a software update to change what the brake lights do? How is this poo poo legal, dealers can’t go away fast enough. I would complain to Chrysler, can’t believe they would be ok with the way that was explained. Yeah there's a dealer or two here that do this also. I think Toyota and maybe one other. It's loving poo poo and I personally think makes things less safe for the reasons diadem already outlined. And the "by the time they reach our floor" might be technically true but only because they're having their mechanic make the change as part of checking the car in. Very obviously it's something they could just not do, if they wanted to. Is it even software or are these gibbons splicing a relay in somewhere? bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 21:36
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Just wait until projector headlights are common enough that dealers start programming their logo into your startup sequence and charging you to do it.
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Feb 20, 2022 21:44
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KillHour posted:Check leasehackr. The one I used only does BMW but that's where I found him. You don't have to pay them until they found a car and you agree to buy it so it's a win-win. What a resource, thanks! Looks like even brokers don't have many Priuses available right now at all, at least in the NYC area. Think the advice to just get whatever's available and within budget is correct.
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Feb 20, 2022 23:35
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The problem I always found with those lease takeover site is nearly everyone on there trying to get out of their lease also is on a terrible lease with lousy terms. And that's while they're trying to get out of their lease.
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Feb 21, 2022 01:33
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Leasehackr has a subforum for brokers to advertise and find clients, megathreads for each manufacturer to talk about incentives and rates, places to share what deal you just closed on and a bunch of other tools and resources. It's not just a site for lease trade classifieds.
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Feb 21, 2022 02:14
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bird with big dick posted:Is it even software or are these gibbons splicing a relay in somewhere? https://pulseprotects.com/product-info/ They’re splicing. OP was an easy mark and should definitely get a broker.
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Feb 21, 2022 05:06
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TheWevel posted:https://pulseprotects.com/product-info/ I totally was. 1) I came in tired, which made me look weak. And I was also not fully aware. 2) I allowed my family to come with me and focused on helping them be happy when they were bored instead of focusing on the sale 3) I was polite instead of calling out BS when it came. I made assumptions about their character (that they weren't scum) instead of calling a spade a spade. My guard was down when it should have been up. 4) I made it clear they had something I wanted, that there weren't many other options to fit my family's needs, that I looked everywhere else and they were the only people who had what I wanted. 5) I didn't ask enough clarifying questions 6) I came in late at night after driving an hour, which they were well aware of. I stayed near closing time with a toddler and allowed them to jerk me around. 7) I was too blase when it came to talking about price 8) I let them lead and didn't try and take the reigns at all On top of me being a mark, there was no reason for me to go with them after what they pulled. Go with folks that treat you well. I am running from this dealership. Now that I realize "getting a car delivered is a thing" I was able to call the dealership that delivers. Others pulled none of this crap, and was able to find a car that had all the features I wanted. For less than what this one would have been. One of the dealerships I called was even able to go under MSRP for a Pinnacle (assuming the pending sale falls through). Thank you all!
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Feb 21, 2022 16:31
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Yet another thread success story. This dying forum continues to do good for the world.
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Feb 21, 2022 16:35
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Feb 21, 2022 16:57
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Good job you goons! Are car rentals still hosed? Improving? I'll be coming to the US in May, probably staying mostly in the NE so won't need the car for the whole time but maybe a week to drive around new england or something.
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Feb 21, 2022 23:57
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mobby_6kl posted:Are car rentals still hosed? https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/331629-hertz-reveals-how-many-people-it-accuses-of-car-theft-each-year
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Feb 22, 2022 00:01
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mobby_6kl posted:Good job you goons! I got in a wreck last week. First available rental car for me is this Wednesday.
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Feb 22, 2022 00:11
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Awesome. Got a call from the dealer today that they didn't realize the car I put a deposit on was already sold. They are trying to get me into one in transit at the same price, but it's going to be a couple weeks at least. I assume there's no recourse if they can't come up with a car and refund the deposit?
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Feb 22, 2022 00:15
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Motronic posted:https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/331629-hertz-reveals-how-many-people-it-accuses-of-car-theft-each-year Hertz was already on my permanent never-use list for the time they charged me for a holiday weekend that I didn't even have the car (and despite having my loving phone number, the first attempt to contact me about it was a letter mailed the day after the charge showed up on my account). Glad to see they've only gotten worse in the 10ish years since.
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Feb 22, 2022 01:10
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Tyro posted:I got in a wreck last week. Holy poo poo. I mean I'm already paranoid about getting a signed confirmation that the car was returned undamaged but mostly because of the deposit, not because I could get shot and/or arrested jfc Tyro posted:I got in a wreck last week.
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Feb 22, 2022 14:33
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mobby_6kl posted:Good job you goons! rental car availability has been fine for the last few months in my experience - mostly major airports
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Feb 22, 2022 15:42
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Almost a success story! There's still the issue of getting my deposit back. When I try to reach my salesperson directly I get voicemail, and when i try to cancel through someone else I'm asked who my salesperson is and am told there's no salesperson here with that name. I'll give a couple of days of trying before I assume they are jerking me around and spend the 2+ hours for a round trip to drive there in person. diadem fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Feb 22, 2022 |
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Feb 22, 2022 23:40
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Fuckin guy probably got fired.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:30
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One thing about deposits is that legally you may be entitled to get it back (or you may not, it depends on the particular location and circumstances) but it's not like you can call the cops and say they stole $500 from you and have the cops come out and pick them up and shake them until 500 bucks falls out. Other than asking for it back and yelling at them when they tell you to gently caress off, I think you're talking about small claims court.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:44
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It's not exactly the same thing but when I was a teenager a cop went to a corner store I used to work at to tell them to give me the paycheck they owed me. It probably depends on how bored your local cops are and it helped that I showed up in person to ask. I'm not saying I recommend doing that but it did work at least once.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:51
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Corner stores and cops have a unique arrangement, so that may not translate well to this situation For an amount under $1000 get their legal departments them email address and inform them of your intention to file in small claims court in 30 days and they'll probably offer to overnight you the check
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Feb 23, 2022 00:58
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Hadlock posted:Corner stores and cops have a unique arrangement, so that may not translate well to this situation What would you recommend for > $1000 ?
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Feb 23, 2022 01:02
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Check and see the maximum amount small claims court allows in your area. It used to be maximum $500 back in the 80s but I bet in some places it's over $10k now I've never sued anyone before so you'd need to consult a lawyer probably You're probably better off just buying a used off lease 7 series, though
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Feb 23, 2022 01:06
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Hadlock posted:You're probably better off just buying a used off lease 7 series, though Uhhhhhhhh mods? I think encouraging suicide is a forums offense
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Feb 23, 2022 01:15
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wesleywillis posted:Uhhhhhhhh mods? I think encouraging suicide is a forums offense self-harm is a more accurate term
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Feb 23, 2022 01:41
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Does anyone know if there is a good mechanic in or near Wilson/McManus/Norwood in LA? Looking at a 2nd hand 2012 cx9 with 180k on it (carpocalypse drives us to strange places) but it's 3+ hours from any mechanics I know are trustworthy and I somehow don't think the owner will let me take a 7 hour test drive.... Closest Mazda dealership is an hour drive away. Also, of course, if you live in or near NOLA and have a reliable daily driver you have suddenly decided to go out of your mind and sell, please PM.
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Feb 23, 2022 03:57
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