|
VelociBacon posted:The 45 and 90 deg fittings I got from EK... it's really wild how much movement they have in terms of tilting side to side. No leaks though. Dang that's who I was looking at. Are bitspower or barrow any better?
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2022 18:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 01:25 |
|
|
Coredump posted:Dang that's who I was looking at. Are bitspower or barrow any better? To be clear, they're working fine. Just have a lot of play, but it's all sealed. I'm just surprised they seal.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2022 19:22
|
|
|
Double posting a couple days later to show the completed build. Thanks to everyone in the thread who contributed their experience and knowledge to help me along with the build.  Happy with it. I have my fan curves set up so the pump is at steady state 65% speed (I didn't appreciate any differences from 50% to 100% speed and it's audible over 70%), and the radiator fans spin up to keep max load coolant temps at 40C. Playing God of War in 4k with everything maxed (and DLSS on quality) gives me ~90fps and the GPU never goes over 55C. CPU is spikey by nature (9900k) but I was able to drop my vCore a tiny bit after the custom loop and that's also working really well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 23:56
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:pump is at steady state 65% speed (I didn't appreciate any differences from 50% to 100% speed and it's audible over 70%), and the radiator fans spin up to keep max load coolant temps at 40C. Set your D5 at max 35% and your fans to 600rpm or so. Should be plenty as long your components arent too restrictive My D5 is set at 30% and my Noctua fans are at like 550rpm. I use a 420 and 280 UT60 with only 9fpi, so the low air flow works out ok. With furmark and prime running (~500W) the water gets very warm, but who cares if the CPU or GPU is at 60 or 65 or 70 degree.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2022 08:53
|
|
|
I'm holding off on building a new PC for the usual reasons right now, but I've decided to get back into custom loop watercooling when I do. The last time I cared about this stuff was back in the early to mid aughts when we were all using aquarium pumps and surplus car heater cores, so it's been quite a trip to explore all the new options available. I gotta ask, what happened to Swiftech? Their products were great and innovative way back when. Now, looking them up ... it seems like they kinda just checked out a few years ago? No website or social media activity in years, no products for the current generation of graphics cards, and the store page for their newest CPU block references compatibility with AMD's "upcoming SP3/TR4" socket. I get SQL errors when I try to view their forums. Were they a pandemic casualty or something?
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2022 18:24
|
|
|
AutismVaccine posted:Set your D5 at max 35% and your fans to 600rpm or so. Should be plenty as long your components arent too restrictive I'm running a 'EK-Classic Pump Reservoir 160 SPC' which is a PWM driven DDC pump. I get up to around 500-550w and yeah temps on the gpu never break 60, the cpu temps under synthetic tests can still spike basically to tjmax since it's bottlenecked by the solder TIM on my 9900k. Loop temps max at 40C.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2022 20:31
|
|
|
Since getting my EVGA 3080 Ti which pushes my loops total heat load from the ~375w it was before to ~500w now, I've been watching the coolant temps to go higher and faster so I decided to throw on a second radiator to see if it helps any. My case (Corsair obsidian 750D) is officially crammed to the limit with the addition of a 280 MM radiator in the front and the existing 420 MM on top. I cut the 5.25" drive bays out a long time ago to make it fit better. I left it sitting in a game for about 30 minutes, temperatures are about 2C cooler (43C vs 45C). About what I was expecting really, not much difference because the physics of adding more radiator space just isn't there. It does take perhaps twice as long to get up to peak temperature though, and the room is likely warming up a little faster in exchange. Idle temperatures also seem to be about 2C lower which does surprise me a little. The temperature of the room still has the biggest impact on the final coolant temp. Starting to consider looking for a new case, something that can more reasonably handle this volume of radiator space and or allow me to convert to push-pull. Is there any case that can handle this amount of radiators (40mm thick) in push+pull?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2022 18:52
|
|
|
External waterbox time. Singularity computer makes them.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2022 19:03
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:Since getting my EVGA 3080 Ti which pushes my loops total heat load from the ~375w it was before to ~500w now, I've been watching the coolant temps to go higher and faster so I decided to throw on a second radiator to see if it helps any. My case (Corsair obsidian 750D) is officially crammed to the limit with the addition of a 280 MM radiator in the front and the existing 420 MM on top. I cut the 5.25" drive bays out a long time ago to make it fit better. This maybe: https://www.newegg.com/satin-black-...8&source=region Or this: https://www.newegg.com/p/11-139-169 There are also some pretty massive lian li cases.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2022 22:50
|
|
|
Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:This maybe: https://www.newegg.com/satin-black-...8&source=region Man, if that Corsair 7000D had been around when I did this build... It is almost perfect except for all the front panel stuff being top mounted. You have to wonder why they make the ports face up on a full tower case that is clearly meant to be shown off on a desk, doing so means that in order for anyone to plug in a USB device to the ports on the front panel they will first have to pull up a folding chair to climb on so they can actually see and reach the ports. Otherwise that is definitely going to be very near the top of the list next time I upgrade.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2022 01:34
|
|
|
So I have an HP OEM 3090 that I am planning out a build around. Trying to keep it SFF, while still having some livable thermals. Currently I am planning on using an NR200 for a case. Anyone have any experience with Bykski waterblocks? I have been eyeballing this one. An active backplate is a must, since this card likes to cook the memory chips on the backside of the PCB. https://www.bykski.us/products/byks...n-rtx3090h-x-v2 I was also hoping to go with this goofy combo CPU block/pump/res. http://www.barrowint.com/product/cpuslt/Barrowch_CPU_Water_Block/1615.html For radiators, I can fit a 240mm radiator up top and a 92mm rad on the back. For the loop I was planning on going - CPU block pump - 240mm rad - GPU - 92mm rad - back to start Any thoughts on this? I am new to the water cooling game. Moey fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Mar 2, 2022 |
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2022 04:25
|
|
|
Moey posted:So I have an HP OEM 3090 that I am planning out a build around. Trying to keep it SFF, while still having some livable thermals. Currently I am planning on using an NR200 for a case. It's doable... but I would probably get an AIO for the cpu and leave the GPU air cooled. I don't think you have the radiator space for a decent cooling solution for both so why add complexity with no benefit.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2022 05:22
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:It's doable... but I would probably get an AIO for the cpu and leave the GPU air cooled. I don't think you have the radiator space for a decent cooling solution for both so why add complexity with no benefit. I have been messing around with the GPU. If I wanted to leave it air-cooled, I would have to take some drastic measures to get fast airflow over the backplate. Thus me looking at the full coverage waterblock.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2022 22:28
|
|
|
So I think I'm done tweaking this for a while, I reversed my top radiator fans to intake now that I have a dust filter for the top of the case so now all my radiator fans blow into the case and it is much more positive pressure (before it was near neutral pressure). Switching the top radiator to pull, the only remaining case fan to exhaust and adjusting the fan curves got me about a 3-4C reduction in coolant temps at load. The case just spews heat from the back and bottom under sustained load now though. And boy does it warm up the room fast, I won't need heat anymore, if it gets cold in my room during winter all I need to do is game for an hour and it will be toasty in here. I lit up the RGB just to see how it looks, because normally I keep that poo poo off and it wasn't too bad:  
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2022 15:34
|
|
|
So that new Corsair kit looks pretty cool and good for people wanting to do hard tubing https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Hydro-X-Series-iCUE-XH305i-RGB-PRO-Custom-Cooling-Kit/p/CX-9070009-WW
|
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2022 09:38
|
|
|
movax posted:I think my pump might be air locked, in the test setup I have to check things out prior to install. Only 3 months ago, not bad… back at home after completing a work project, and I checked some stuff today. (That post is the first in a series of debugging posts). Ran the components in isolation, everything checked out… pump pumps, rad is not blocked, reservoir works, tried removing angled fittings to see if it helped remove noise, etc etc. So — took video(s) of the test setup today (not final config, some compression fittings are missing)… is that really just air in the loop and it’ll subside over time? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRaipBflSlI And the first cut at it, just for more data (but more ambient noise): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4Pnt2WfNNE
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2022 00:24
|
|
|
Just a random thought here, but how deep into the housings do your fittings thread in? Is it possible the threads are actually bottoming out on something and causing it to restrict the flow? A D5 at full speed is ridiculously fast in my experience, it should draw down a reservoir that size in less than a second. Also if you have any quick connect fittings in the lines make sure they are actually properly mated, because they generally cut off the flow if they aren't completely locked together.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2022 00:50
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:Just a random thought here, but how deep into the housings do your fittings thread in? Is it possible the threads are actually bottoming out on something and causing it to restrict the flow? A D5 at full speed is ridiculously fast in my experience, it should draw down a reservoir that size in less than a second. Also if you have any quick connect fittings in the lines make sure they are actually properly mated, because they generally cut off the flow if they aren't completely locked together. The fittings look good IMO; seem to be making a good fit. When I left the outlet of the pump disconnected, it would draw that reservoir down very fast at top speed as you said — about a second or so. The Koolance QDCs seem to be mated cleanly as well. I went back up to check on it and the res level had dropped slightly — this is tap water for now as a quick test, and then I’ll flush it with distilled or de-ionized before adding the actual coolant. movax fucked around with this message at 02:02 on May 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 15, 2022 01:06
|
|
|
If you can get water to flow from the res though the pump under power, just start connecting things further down the line one at a time until the flow stops and that will tell you where the blockage is.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2022 02:00
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:If you can get water to flow from the res though the pump under power, just start connecting things further down the line one at a time until the flow stops and that will tell you where the blockage is. To be clear I’m pretty sure there’s not a blockage (now), was just concerned about the gurgling / bubbling noise. I’ll have to get the flow meter hooked up to USB to get a verification of the flow rate. Since my post… now the bubble noise seems to be gone! Replaced by a clicking sound… turns out the flow meter makes noise  and I guess I couldn’t hear it earlier because I was focused on the pump ‘cavitation’ / bubbling. Now when I restart the pump, in about 10-15 seconds, all gurgling goes away and its just a gentle whirring noise.Guess I’m just not patient enough / was overly paranoid about burning up the pump?
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2022 02:03
|
|
|
Yeah, when I'm filling my loop it can take up to an hour to purge all the little air bubbles once the initial fill is done, the pump will chew through a lot of small bubbles quite loudly during that time. It is mainly the radiators which are prone to trapping air that take the longest to get it all out of. The process can be accelerated by flipping the radiators around in various orientations and just plain shaking/rattling them while the pump is going and the reservoir is oriented properly to catch it all.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2022 02:21
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:Just a random thought here, but how deep into the housings do your fittings thread in? Is it possible the threads are actually bottoming out on something and causing it to restrict the flow? A D5 at full speed is ridiculously fast in my experience, it should draw down a reservoir that size in less than a second. Also if you have any quick connect fittings in the lines make sure they are actually properly mated, because they generally cut off the flow if they aren't completely locked together. this. Also in my exp it is best practice to just connect the 12vcable to the D5, and not the 4 pin molex. Not all motherboards can even set it at real 100%, no clue whats up with that. (if you have the 4pin molex version) e: NVM you have the 5 settings one AutismVaccine fucked around with this message at 05:51 on May 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 15, 2022 05:48
|
|
|
AutismVaccine posted:this. Also in my exp it is best practice to just connect the 12vcable to the D5, and not the 4 pin molex. Not all motherboards can even set it at real 100%, no clue whats up with that. (if you have the 4pin molex version) Hmm — if they were bottoming out, wouldn’t I expect leaks? Pull apart loop and check the bottoms of the fittings for galling or similar? Solution I’d imagine would be getting little extenders?
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2022 07:56
|
|
|
Running overnight, seems to be fine so far! I need to order / build one more Molex cable for the OCTO and figure out where to actually mount it, then I can fire it up. Every major component can be QDC’d out without too much pain for service / reapplication of thermal paste / etc; I have a weird loop coming out of the GPU but that’s because I didn’t want to use a rotary angled 45 (from earlier posts in the thread). GPU and CPU come out with lengths of hose, and then I can use the GPU <-> res hose as my drain if I want. 100% available PCIe slots for use, two U.2 drives on the backside. So much storage. movax fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2022 21:07
|
|
|
I'm thinking of having my current build transplanted into a larger case that's easier to work with. I have an RX 480 that's done fine by me and I'm happy with it. Only thing is it's a bit noisy under load, and quiet/not flashy is what I'm after. In the future, I might replace it - far future, like as long as the card will last. My PC is a regular homebuilt, got a 120mm fan in front and rear doing cooling (I think it's 120, definitely bigger than 80) and the noise level without the GPU under load is just fine and dandy. If I get a basic water cooling setup, is there such a thing as cooling blocks for the 480 that could be re-used for other GPUs, or is it always going to be new card, new blocks? I don't overclock nor have plans to, just wanna be able to have the GPU run without affecting the room noise. Edit: yikes if it's $100 just for a water block for the RX 480, I'll probably just deal with the fan sound. MJP fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jun 10, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2022 14:03
|
|
|
Hi there! I have a 3950X/3090 setup that makes the office warm and loud, and while the warm part is a matter of physics I’m considering moving to water for noise reasons. I generally frame limit FFXIV to make it run quieter, which is sort of a waste of that card. What are my best options here? I’m not against assembling a custom loop if that process can be made relatively idiot-proof and reversible. My case is a “be quiet! Silent Base 600”, in case anyone can recognize that in terms of radiator and fan options. I’m not super price-sensitive, especially if most of it can be reused for future AM5/40x0 parts. Thanks for any guidance you can provide! Ninja: I’m located in Canada but I can get stuff forwarded from the US, in case that matters for part recommendations.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2022 18:34
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:Hi there! Hey I'm in Vancouver, finished my water cooling build several months ago, the only real place to get stuff is https://www.dazmode.com I think he's in Ottawa or Toronto. Shipping was fast and no issues with anything from them. I have to say, it sounds like if you just undervolt your GPU you'd solve every problem you're experiencing. You might not even lose performance and I'm guessing actually that you'd gain FPS over what you're limiting to and have a quieter card. I'm no expert on undervolting but if you look around online there are some great resources.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2022 18:48
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Hey I'm in Vancouver, finished my water cooling build several months ago, the only real place to get stuff is https://www.dazmode.com I think he's in Ottawa or Toronto. Shipping was fast and no issues with anything from them. Thanks, I’ll check them out. Is there a guide you’d recommend for figuring out how to put the plan together? I’m in Toronto and have a trip to Ottawa planned for next month, so that could work out well. I already have an undervolt on my card, alas. I’ll make sure it didn’t stop getting applied due to a software update or something, but FFXIV is a terrible engine. The NVIDIA monitoring tool shows it peaking at about 50% GPU utilization but the fans run something fierce anyway. Maybe an airflow issue in the case? I could try that angle first I guess and buy some more fans.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2022 21:27
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:Thanks, I’ll check them out. Is there a guide you’d recommend for figuring out how to put the plan together? I’m in Toronto and have a trip to Ottawa planned for next month, so that could work out well. You basically just look at the case you're using and see what will fit. If you look at my posts on this thread you'll see I screenshot a pic of the inside of my case and scribbled on that in mspaint to figure out what I'd be doing. Sounds like you might be compromised on case cooling/airflow if your GPU is that hot at 50% load. Is the GPU getting up to 80c+ when you hear fans? I'd try to isolate exactly which fans you're hearing. Lots of people have their case fans on curves attached to CPU temps and it's not a great idea, for example. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jun 22, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2022 21:33
|
|
|
I got Argus Monitor so that I could anchor fans against the worse of CPU/GPU temps, but I might not have set it up right. I’ll check the temps after I play for a bit next time, since I don’t remember off-hand what the GPU settles at. I think Argus can tell me if the GPU is throttling due to thermals? Maybe it was another program, but something can. Would be great if the solution was just “some more fans”, at least from a cash perspective. The water cooling stuff does look like fun, though…
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2022 21:52
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:I got Argus Monitor so that I could anchor fans against the worse of CPU/GPU temps, but I might not have set it up right. I’ll check the temps after I play for a bit next time, since I don’t remember off-hand what the GPU settles at. I think Argus can tell me if the GPU is throttling due to thermals? Maybe it was another program, but something can. Its fun but you're looking at like 1200+ CAD to get the whole thing done and a lot of time, not to mention future headaches. I only did it because I got a factory EVGA waterblocked 3090 at MSRP. All these GPUs are automatically overclocking themselves based on thermal state so they're constantly 'throttling', but in both directions. Do you have a thermal probe you can use to monitor your case air temp near the GPU inlet? That would be super useful. I have my case fans (non radiator intake) on a curve based on my case air temp. If you find your case temps are high that might be the solution. What case do you use?
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2022 21:59
|
|
|
Yeah, it’s capping at 80C when I’m in game, possibly because of a conservative fan curve (they’re only at 50%, but still loud!). I need to remember how to check the undervolt and make sure it’s still there. I use a “be quiet! Silent Base 600”, and I forget the fan setup at the moment. Will check it out later tonight if I remember.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2022 00:46
|
|
|
I'm going to watercool a threadripper 3970x is a ekwb Quantum Surface S360 radiator enough, or do I need a thicker one or more radiators or something like that? This bad boy takes 280 watts.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 09:06
|
|
|
Second question a lot of people are saying negative things about nickel in their loop. If I buy the Quantum Magnitude sTRX4 water block, it has nickel in it, and it's cheaper than the copper alternative that they sell. I'm pretty sure everything else is copper should I get copper for the water block too? I was planning to use CryoFuel Clear premix.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 13:37
|
|
|
Nolgthorn posted:Second question a lot of people are saying negative things about nickel in their loop. If I buy the Quantum Magnitude sTRX4 water block, it has nickel in it, and it's cheaper than the copper alternative that they sell. I'm pretty sure everything else is copper should I get copper for the water block too? I was under the impression that EK's nickel blocks were the same as the copper ones, just plated with nickel for the aesthetic? I doubt you'd notice any meaningful performance difference and given that nickel and copper don't react with one another, galvanic corrosion shouldn't be a concern either. There is the possibility that the nickel will wear over time and reveal the copper underneath but it's never an issue I've had running clear premixes or straight DI water.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 14:51
|
|
|
That's what I've heard. Horror stories about corrosion, it's completely hidden inside the block so I have no idea why ek would nickel plate it other than for product shots of the thing disassembled. Which makes me suspicious about the entire company. So it won't likely corrode and deposit nickel flakes in my radiator and pump?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 15:02
|
|
|
Nolgthorn posted:That's what I've heard. Horror stories about corrosion, it's completely hidden inside the block so I have no idea why ek would nickel plate it other than for product shots of the thing disassembled. Which makes me suspicious about the entire company. I can honestly say I've never had it happen on any of my EK gear throughout the years and I've always gone nickel because I like the silver shine. Excluding any manufacturing defects, my belief is that as long as you use high quality components from reputable brands and use DI + additives as directed or a quality premix you shouldn't have any issues. My current loop is just past 12-months since I last drained and refilled and 18-months in total since I put it together. All EK nickel blocks with CryoFuel clear premix and still all fine. I think my PB was something like three years between a fill and drain and that was only because the pump I bought developed a rattly bearing and I had to replace it, learning the hard way why you always fit a drain port. That was straight DI with a silver kill coil in the reservoir and no gunk or corrosion when I took it apart. e: In the interest of balance, I only really ever use EK stuff wherever possible because I really like their style and they're made (fairly) locally to me in Europe. Some of their stuff, e.g. radiators, really aren't as efficient as some of their competitors (I seem to remember their slim rads are particularly bad) but I take a likely misplaced sense of comfort that if I use everything from one brand it has all at least been designed and tested to work together in harmony. Theophany fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jul 5, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 15:23
|
|
|
That's reassuring to hear. My suspicion is they have three reasons to add nickel plating, 1. it looks good. 2. it corrodes after a year so people have to replace them. 3. the corrosion damages the entire loop so you have to replace everything else too. This is heightened when they are nickel plating things people can't even see. On the ek webshop page there's all these warnings about additives you need in the fluid because of the nickel. It makes me nervous like well then why did you put it there? But if you say it's not a big deal and you haven't had any problems then maybe my usually helpful general skepticism about everything is misplaced here.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 15:37
|
|
|
Unless the fluid is abrasive (i.e. opaque specialty stuff) I don't see any reason why the nickel will wear off in any amount of time
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 15:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 01:25 |
|
|
Nolgthorn posted:That's reassuring to hear. It's sensible to be skeptical, but given that water cooling is a small niche within an already tiny niche of the home computer market, I'd like to think any company manufacturing water cooling components with shady ulterior motives would be out of business very quickly. EK's reasoning for nickel plating their parts is that it's normal for bare copper to oxidise over time, which ends up looking pretty awful if you've got plexi blocks. The nickel plating protects against that. https://www.ekwb.com/blog/does-copper-oxidation-have-any-impact-on-cooling-performance/
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 16:01
|
|