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Spent some free time last weekend getting the accord ready for winter. Oil and filter, rotated tires, and hooked up a quick disconnect for the battery tender.  It just reaches out of the bumper so perfect. I've had to jump it a couple times this summer if I didn't drive it often enough. Kind of defeats the remote start... In civic news one of the people in my class at autox is a Honda nerd with a rhd crx and a dyno. He sockets ecus a hell of a lot more often than I do so I figured it would be a good idea to pay him to do it.   He offered to put the hole for the USB in but access to a mill so  Fancy. And wrong.  So it wound up finished with a file anyway.  Going to test it probably next week on my coworkers civic. Dude who did the socket threw in an unmodified cover too, I added the sticker. 
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Oct 23, 2021 23:24
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Got the rad mounts "finished". I'm not proud of them but they're a part I can fiddle with to my heart's content in the future when the cars drivable so gently caress it, done till they let me down probably.  So far I've roughly got suspension, brakes, a cage, and a pile of misc done. If the car ran it would be drat close to autocross ready so I'm thinking that's the new goal. I'll need wiring harness, fuel pump/lines, timing belt/tensioner/water pump, an OBD1 distributor, and possibly gauges. Im hoping if I get it drivable it'll light a fire under my rear end and get me going again.
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Oct 27, 2021 02:02
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I have a 1995 Integra with lowering springs on it. I want to sell it and I think the springs will not help in this endeavor. I looked at the junkyard for an Integra with stock springs but had no luck. Will stock springs from a 93ish Civic fit my car and return it to OEM-ish ride height and ride quality?
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Dec 13, 2021 16:39
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I don't know for 100% sure but I really doubt the springs will be the same. They'll probably fit though. I would guess they'll be softer than integra springs. Rockauto has quick struts for $50 each would fix the springs and add new shocks for about $200. Till bolts break and now bushings and things spiral out of control.
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Dec 13, 2021 17:11
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It has aftermarket rear LCAs already. But they probably won't cooperate either, because of course they won't. The struts already on the car are Konis (the non-adjustable STR.T ones) for the nothing that's worth.
PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Dec 13, 2021 |
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Dec 13, 2021 17:46
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In that case id try to sell it as is.
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Dec 13, 2021 19:17
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Holy poo poo I did a thing. Works been nuts so I haven't had much time or motivation to get out and do stuff. Spent some time over Christmas mistreating my wallet online. Rough list of parts on the way. Moroso steel road race pan Timing belt, water pump, and tensioner. Oem Honda for all but the water pump, that's nla. Front and rear main seals Obd1 distributor Knockoff toda header Misc gaskets, plugs, etc Did some homework on the various headers. In order of power it's hytech in front by miles, followed by the toda and skunk2 (close). Ease of clearing the EF crossmember is toda, then skunk2, then lol hytech. I figure the header is a wear item, it's easy to notch the cross member more, and picking up a couple hp isn't worth the heavy money yet so I went cheap to start. Moroso pan showed up today so I decided to head out and pull the engine again. This thing is filthy so I'm gonna take it apart and soap and water wash it.  So much room for activities!     I'm getting it down to a science though! Hook up the chain and hoist, support the engine. Remove the 3 bolts that connect the chassis to the mounts. Lower the engine enough to get at the hidden bolt for the transmission mount. Once it's gone remove the other bolts and slide out the whole mount. Remove the driver's side mount. Then the engine can go almost straight up. Needs a little forward at the same time but not bad. Once I had it off to the side I popped off the intermediate shaft, brackets, and a cover. Then I sat it down on some 2x4s and pulled the transmission.   The clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing look better than I expected. I was expecting a ball of rust but it's borderline worth reinstalling. I'll resurface the flywheel for sure. Now onto the engine stand.  It surprisingly clean on the inside too.    Valve train looks good. For almost a decade of not being run I'm tickled pink it's that clean. I pulled the plugs and sprayed a little pb in the cylinders and on the cams. Turned overy by hand beautifully. Pics don't show it but no rust at all. Once some more parts show up I'll do the timing belt then start in on the rest. Plenty to sandblast and paint while I wait. Anyone recommend something better than wheel cleaner for block cleaning? Also I know original b16 retainers and keepers are a known failure. Anyone done the air pressure to hold the valves up while you swap them trick? I might add that to the preventative maintenance.
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Jan 2, 2022 23:53
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Like a glove.  I buy the dollar tree heavy duty oven cleaner, but I think it isn't recommended for aluminum / magnesium.
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Jan 3, 2022 00:20
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honda whisperer posted:Anyone recommend something better than wheel cleaner for block cleaning? E: ^^ dangit.
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Jan 3, 2022 00:22
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There’s an aluminum safe simple green but it’s kinda $texas
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Jan 3, 2022 15:44
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Phone posted:There’s an aluminum safe simple green but it’s kinda $texas Was just talking about this with someone in relation to parts cleaners, Simple Green Pro HD Cleaner is marketed as safe for all metals. Home Depot sells it 128oz for $15 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simple-Green-128-oz-Pro-HD-Heavy-Duty-Cleaner-2110000413421/100550784
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Jan 3, 2022 19:10
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Grabbed some oven cleaner today, I'll give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'll move on to purple something or all metal simple green. Thanks for the recommendations.
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Jan 4, 2022 01:23
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Welp FedEx and the dollar general make a hell of a team. I saw over the weekend that the header was going to require a signature. A pain but not bad, I'll just shift it to a pickup somewhere. One of the options is a dollar general that's on my way home from work. Open late too so perfect. Monday the tracking says out for delivery all day. I swing by after work anyway. The guy working there swears up and down they don't hold packages. Since I've changed the delivery address once I can't change it again without FedEx delivery manager. To sign up for that they have to snail mail me a code. Yesterday and today it still shows as on the truck out for delivery. Today I called the FedEx corporate number, they confirmed it was on the truck and could do nothing. After work I swung by a local FedEx and got the same. For shits and giggles I tried dollar general one more time. Same guy, remembers me even. I ask him if FedEx ever brings any packages (yes) and can you look? And there it is... And yes I can sign for it.   Huzzah it fits, at least on the engine. Crossmember mods not withstanding. Rockauto box 2 showed up, the distributor is for a single cam. Everything else looks good so far. Also holy poo poo oven cleaner eats grease for breakfast. Does nothing for oxidation but one problem at a time. 
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Jan 6, 2022 04:02
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Oven cleaner is some truly violent stuff. The best non-melt-your-lungs product I found for grease is Bilt-Hamber's Surfex HD but no idea if it exists outside the UK. It's a concentrate that you can water down a lot but it really does a cracking job on oils and such. Spray on, agitate a little and then just hose/spray off.
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Jan 9, 2022 07:03
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I may look into that too. Respirator + open garage door in winter blows. Oven cleaners made short work of a lot of the grease though. Looked into dry ice blasting stuff too and God that's expensive. Even a rental is $700 a day and like $1600 for a week. Looks like clean but oxidized is in my future until I have to rebuild the engine. Photo dump for backup, will post about it later.      
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Jan 9, 2022 22:55
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So darchangel has inspired me and I'm going for the zinc plating / chromate on the engine nuts and bolts. The pics above are so I can sort what goes where after I inevitably mix up everything. I'll effort post about that when I figure out wtf I'm doing. First attempt  Yellow chromate solution is on the way. Met the FedEx guy today. Apparently I'm the rock auto guy. I was inspired.  Rad fan was in the box so I figured I'd check to see if it fits. I'd had a chance at work to replace the 3d printed bottom mounts with aluminum.    It's a little close on the bottom but should be workable. Thanks dorman. I found a bolt I lost who knows how long ago.  
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Jan 10, 2022 03:32
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Convenient bolt tray.
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Jan 10, 2022 05:01
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My friend that works at the scanning and engineering place finished up the rear spindle models. Instant rear disc for any 89-2000 Honda trailing arm skipping a couple weird ones like the DA New OBD2 dizzy fits. Rad cap too. Koyo racing radiators are weird. 89-91 Honda cap was correct, and is correct for all their Honda rads regardless of year. I really hope the aftermarket distributor isn't crap. OEM is nla. Used OEM looks sketchy.   Otherwise it's just to cold to do anything in the garage so it sits.
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Jan 26, 2022 16:25
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Helped one of the people I autox with work on his daily last weekend. Pontiacs are not my cup of tea but it wasn't a total nightmare. 190k and on original plugs. Started and drove here no problem lol. I'd have lost that bet.   Today was amazing. 50 degrees outside so back out to the garage. These two are my poor test bolt. It's been plated and stripped more times than I can count. Today was the first time it seemed to work well, and the first time with the chromate.   Ok lets go for broke. Grabbed some intake studs and started on them. This pic they're fresh out of the acid, then dunked in water, then hung in a jar of acetone to keep them from flash rusting while I wire wheel them.  After plating but before buffing. I was constantly turning and flipping them which seemed to give much better results.  Wire wheeled and 45 seconds in the chromate.   I'm really happy how these turned out. I've got a couple things showing up tomorrow to scale this up to larger batch sizes and 2 days of nice weather. Image dump for later reference. My phone cant seem to decide if it wants to download every photo I've ever taken or delete half of them to make room so the thread continues to be an offsite backup.         
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Feb 21, 2022 00:52
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60 degrees today! Tomorrow too but raining, then snow Thursday. Tried scaling up after work. I mixed up distilled water, Epsom salt, zinc sulfate, and dextrose (corn sugar) in a 5 gallon bucket.  Ratios came from https://www.nonlintec.com/tr4a/plating/ I checked the pH with some test strips after mixing it and it hit 5 on the money without adding any acid. This felt wrong but science so I went for it. It seemed to work. Did one batch of bolts then an exhaust bracket to try something with a large surface area. Bolts went ok. The bracket seemed to get coated with zinc but the chromate didn't seem to take. On both I don't think I polished them hard enough.   I'm thinking tomorrow I'll add some acid, strip the parts, and try again.
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Feb 22, 2022 04:24
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Ok added 2ml of sulfuric acid to my 4 gallon mixture and it seems to be working much better. The pH test strip looks exactly as 4-6 ph as it did yesterday. Hmmm still yellow. But the solution is much less opaque vs yesterday. I debated a lot today about just saying gently caress it and sending the hardware out. I realized though all I really want is for the stuff to not rust and don't care if they're shiny or not so I skipped the carding and just went straight from plating to chromate.  That says to me I got zinc everywhere, and it was way faster. While the timer counted down I combined some copper wire with Amazon's finest alligator clips.  These are way easier to deal with vs wrapping every bolt, especially when flipping them around. I could see the flat olive bolts working especially on a race car. For a real restoration make the effort. For this, it's just a civic. I can also always change my mind and send them out whenever the first engine rebuild comes up.
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Feb 23, 2022 02:47
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Nice updates. You are a good friend!
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Feb 23, 2022 06:24
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jink posted:Nice updates. You are a good friend!  45 degrees and sunny so I did the totally sane and reasonable thing and washed my car.  Warm water from the sink in the buckets and it's not to bad. Round 3 of plating gave a third completely different result.  Darker and maybe feels more coated? Weather's going to be nice all week so I can try a couple more times in a row. BlackMK4 is a big jerk and posted used BRZ parts in the AI marketplace thread sooo....  Overpipe is on the way, probably tomorrow. He threw in an ecutek cable for free, helping on the required tune. Header and flash is worth a ton of area under the curve. Warranty ends in August, covid is ???, and Russia is on the march so I'm thinking ill start tracking the BRZ this summer. Pads and an oil cooler should cover the rest. Edit: Graphs are stock, header + tune on 91, and header + tune on e70. 
honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Mar 1, 2022 |
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Mar 1, 2022 03:31
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honda whisperer posted:Also holy poo poo oven cleaner eats grease for breakfast. Does nothing for oxidation but one problem at a time. What did you end up doing for the oxidation?
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Mar 2, 2022 18:57
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honda whisperer posted:Graphs are stock, header + tune on 91, and header + tune on e70. It's amazing that huge torque dip made it to production. E: I guess it's only 20 ft-lbs but I assume you can feel it?
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Mar 2, 2022 19:04
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Suburban Dad posted:It's amazing that huge torque dip made it to production. The pipes were from my supercharged white car, but I have the same setup on my blue car and it is night and day over stock even when it isn't on E.
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Mar 2, 2022 20:03
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BlackMK4 posted:The pipes were from my supercharged white car, but I have the same setup on my blue car and it is night and day over stock even when it isn't on E. Yeah the gains look pretty decent. Can you feel that torque dip on a stock car though? That's what I was curious about.
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Mar 2, 2022 20:48
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BlackMK4 posted:What did you end up doing for the oxidation? Pinching my nose, sighing deeply, and muttering it's just a civic until the beer kicked in. It seems lasers, hot tanks, media blasting, or CO2 blasting are the way. Option b is strong acids. Lots of flying debris or harsh chemicals for a half sealed engine so I'm just going to leave it. When it's time for a rebuild I'll revisit it. Suburban Dad posted:It's amazing that huge torque dip made it to production. Yeah there's a huge hole in the power and it's right in the spirited driving but reasonable range.
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Mar 2, 2022 20:51
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Round ??? of plating. I feel like I'm homing in on a process that works. Last batch. They look meh but I'm confident there's zinc on them.  Started today with an exhaust bracket.  Everything I've plated before the parts shown above got stripped and replated again in one huge batch. 2 changes this time. 1st I didn't hook up the power supply until everything was in the bath. 2nd once it was going I sat there and wire brushed one part at a time the whole time it was being plated. Grab bolt one, brushy brushy, flip 180 and back in. Grab bolt 2, repeat.  I won't be able to tell until tomorrow but these look like they struck a good balance between well coated without looking like burnt crap. If the bolts look good tomorrow, and what I try after goes similar I'll probably keep stumbling forward. If it doesn't I'm sending this poo poo out.
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Mar 3, 2022 03:48
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Ping Darchangel, he's plated some stuff and may have some words of wisdom?
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Mar 3, 2022 04:23
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Suburban Dad posted:Ping Darchangel, he's plated some stuff and may have some words of wisdom? Haha his thread was what inspired me to try it for myself.
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Mar 3, 2022 15:06
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Pontiac G6 is back. Repairs from last time worked but we're an improvement not a solve. Next up is the oil filter to block adapter gasket.   Had to pull the starter for access, easy. Then 2 nuts for a heat shield, then 3 bolts for this nightmare. They all did the to tight for fingers and to loose to work a ratchet. To the engineer that designed this cluster gently caress I hope you get the special hell. I got that while the friend did his front brakes.
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Mar 5, 2022 22:59
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 Hahahahahaha Oil pressure sensor is leaking. Pulled it out after O'Riley's run 3 and no gasket on it at all. Replaced by a professional shop this year.
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Mar 6, 2022 00:56
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Every time someone that primarily works on American cars complains about European shitboxes I laugh inside because lol General Motors makes garbage. I say this as the child of a former Cadillac engineer and also as someone with a weird (and thankfully mostly unexplored) for 90’s GM FWD fetish.
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Mar 6, 2022 07:28
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Yeah I never get the cheap domestic love either. I can see it for v8 stuff but a fwd v6 Pontiac isn't it. This owners reason makes sense at least. Cheap family sale when a car was needed. Other rides are an rsx and crz so the g6 is on patch cheap issues until it's death. On a different note my mustang loving friend with a dynojet is nearly done building his new garage. I'm very excited for that to get set back up. I went over there today to check it out and pick up a part that needs a little machining. Probably room enough for 4-6 lifts, Dyno, and still have floor space.
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Mar 6, 2022 18:26
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Let's see, ordered a dongle for ecutek. Counterspace garage didn't have them in stock so it should ship tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Ordered the brz licence and a canned tune too. Once that dongle arrives I can install the header. Meanwhile I did some prep on the header itself. I know I've recommended this ceramic coating in a couple threads but didn't realize it was NLA from speedway motors. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech-Line-Coatings-Black-Satin-Ceramic-Header-Coating-12-oz-,35785.html After contacting techline coatings and getting a lead on a few of their customers I contacted powder by the pound and they confirmed that I had found the right stuff. https://www.powderbuythepound.com/1-shot-black-satin-ceramic-4oz.html $35 for the can and $25 to ship hurt but, at least in the past, it really works. Step 1 is sand blast everything.  Step 2 is go to harbor freight and buy their $10 airbrush. It's a poo poo airbrush but it works perfect for this. Add a cheap regulator to drop the air pressure to 40 psi. I decided get this so I could spray it at work both for the temperature and the compressed air is actually dry vs just turning down my home setup.  Cleaned everything for a long long time with acetone (no pics) and spray. Tricky bit is here. One coat only, and thin as possible with full coverage.   Going to let it air dry overnight. You can bake it a little with a heat gun or fully with an oven but it's designed to air dry then actually cure once it's on the car from exhaust heat. 30 minute drive gently then park and let it cool and it should be good to go. I'll have to be gentle with the install. Also the 4oz can is still over half full so I'll do the civic header next.
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Mar 11, 2022 01:18
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That looks really, really good. I'm stealing that method for the K header.
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Mar 11, 2022 18:27
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Thanks! If you can wait a week or two at the most I'll be able to get it on and make sure it's as good as I remember. It has been 10 years since I've used it so they might have changed the formula.
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Mar 11, 2022 18:52
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Speaking of back in the day, the owner of the first speed shop I worked at is retiring and selling everything. I found out to late for a lot of the bseries stuff but did find a few things. Full size hondata banner  New old stock crx si rear hub, some parts catalogs, unopened omp kill switch, and vol 1 and 2 of the crx/civic 1990 service manuals.  $100 all told was probably worth it for the hub alone. Most of the stuff is for 94-00 integras and anything those parts fit. If anyone is desperate for oem Honda parts that are NLA I can swing back by and take another crack at it. poo poo tons of race pads and rotors for the same too. Mostly used. So much used crap that can't possibly be identified and will be worth God only knows in 20 more years. Edit: 
honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Mar 16, 2022 |
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Mar 16, 2022 00:31
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| # ? May 27, 2024 14:58 |
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Got home about 5:45, header installed and started at 9:50. That was more difficult than I thought it would be but not bad. The overpipe (links header to a cat and the rest of the exhaust is a nightmare. Googling ranges from needs wiggling to lose a heat shield to loosen a motor mount. Go for the mount. Step one on stands. Just front for extra room.  Then the under trays.  Pulled the intake out so I could disconnect the O2 sensors and drop them with the factory header.  Stock crap  And gently caress this nut. 14mm gear wrench with a 19mm cheater. Nothing. Wrench with 4lbs mini sledge hammer, same.   Not my favorite tool on jack stands but it worked. So once I got the nuts off the over pipe on both ends off I did the stock header. The heads have studs, the over pipe has studs, the exhaust has studs. They were all at an impass. I had to disconnect the exhaust hanger in the middle of the car to put enough give into the system to slip the exhaust off and down. That gave room to backup the overpipe, and finally the header dropped down. Then I wiggled the overpipe for 30 minutes and just nothing. No matter how I rotated or what direction I went it would jam up. Pulled one exhaust stud and stuck for want of maybe a 1/4 inch. Motor mount bolt came out, a scissor jack did something questionable with a 2x4, and I had my 1/4" Mount was still installed, avoided all pinch points, just used it for a nudge before you judge me to harshly. With the overpipe I swapped the O2 sensors over and started installing. New overpipe got sat over the crossmemeber (basically fell in) and I went for the header. Took a little prying to get it over both sets of studs at the same time but didn't require a pry bar. Then I tried to be smart in a way that was very wrong. Ideal world I'll get everything lined up and all bolts/nuts started then bounce around tightening things.  Yeah overpipe blocks the 2 of 3 nuts on the pass side of the header. After some bolt removal I fully installed the header, then the rest went well. Motor mount, hanger, intake, and o2 wiring were the reverse of removal. New hotness  With good clearance it looks like.  The last widget to tune this should show up tomorrow. Rain shows up Friday and keeps going. I said gently caress it and fired it up. I figure it can't hurt itself at idle and I can leak check /cure the coating. One smoke cloud later + 30 minutes of idling it seems leak free and should be set for data logging. I left the under trays off. I'll check if anything loosened after a heat cycle when I get home tomorrow. After that button it up and flash the ECU. Any luck and I'll effort post the BRZ tuning process. Suprise hero of the day.  Costco had these last weekend for 2x for $40. Rechargeable, stupid bright, magnets in the stand. I'm blown away by how much I like them.
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Mar 17, 2022 03:57
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