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Gambrinus posted:What's the best paint for painting 1980s/1990s Citadel miniatures these days? I haven't picked up a brush in over 20 years (and wasn't much cop at it then, to be honest), but I've just spent far too much money on nostalgic squig herders and halflings on eBay and need to do something with them. I paint mostly using Vallejo, but with some P3 and GW paints mixed in. If you want to go old school, Coat D'arms paints is the legacy successor of the old Citadel paints. AFAIK they made the actual paint for Citadel before they moved production inhouse, so they still have the same line more or less as the 90's Citadel range.
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Mar 3, 2022 20:09
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You can also cheat the classic WD style with Contrasts highlighted with the same contrast mixed with white.
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Mar 3, 2022 20:16
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Gambrinus posted:What's the best paint for painting 1980s/1990s Citadel miniatures these days? I haven't picked up a brush in over 20 years (and wasn't much cop at it then, to be honest), but I've just spent far too much money on nostalgic squig herders and halflings on eBay and need to do something with them. It depends on what your priorities for paints are. There are far more superior options for paints than there were 30 years ago. If you want to match current Citadel color schemes and want something that will be highly available, Citadel paints are very good, but expensive and come in crappy pots. If you want a HUGE color selection for a lower price and still available at most hobby stores, Vallejo Game Color is a good choice. If you're on a tight budget, Army Painter can be good or bad from one color to the next, and Reaper Paints are great value but availability can be very inconsistent. If you want to recreate those old school colors and techniques, Coat d'Arms still sells the original formulations under their own name that they used to make for Games Workshop.
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Mar 3, 2022 20:17
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I'd also add that Vallejo Game Color was originally formulated as a pitch by Vallejo to GW to take over their paint production (GW didn't go with them), so a lot of colors are very close matches to the previous generation of Citadel paints, with paint names that are references to the GW paint color names. Escorpena Green is Scorpion Green, f'rex. They're not exact matches like Coat D'Arms, which I believe are done by the same company that did that generation of Citadel paints, but close and easier to find than Coat D'Arms.
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Mar 3, 2022 20:25
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Stephenls posted:I'd also add that Vallejo Game Color was originally formulated as a pitch by Vallejo to GW to take over their paint production (GW didn't go with them), so a lot of colors are very close matches to the previous generation of Citadel paints, with paint names that are references to the GW paint color names. Escorpena Green is Scorpion Green, f'rex. They're not exact matches like Coat D'Arms, which I believe are done by the same company that did that generation of Citadel paints, but close and easier to find than Coat D'Arms. The Game Color Heavy ones were especially meant to be for GW - i got a set of them and on the back of the box was a guide to match the paints to the old Citadel Foundation paints.
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Mar 3, 2022 20:28
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Cheers. I'll pick up the starter Vallejo set, in a bit. Got a load of dwarves to do some dry brushing on. They're all metal and beard, so can't go too badly wrong.
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Mar 3, 2022 20:53
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I dont remember who mentioned it but thank you for the tip about using Abaddon Black to clean up bases. It works like a charm and you can't tell if you're more than 6" away.
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Mar 4, 2022 02:38
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So I've moved into a new place with a ton of free space to do what I want. I own no real furniture and want a dedicated desk for painting (and maybe studying ln a laptop). What would y'all's ideal set up be if you could start from zero? Fancy? Simple? Thoughts?
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Mar 7, 2022 22:52
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Where do you want to paint? Do you want to do paint holders attached to a wall or other things permanently attached to a wall? I have seen a few setups like that and they look nice. Is the painting area going to be a more open area? Sometimes a small table is better than a desk, because a desk often is more shallow/less deep than a table. I think the big first decision is if you want to modify the walls/furniture or not, and then maybe go from there.
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Mar 7, 2022 23:20
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I've been thinking about this too. I also have a laptop at my paint desk and think I've decided on a longer narrow table. I'd like to have the laptop and the 3d printer on the table as well as a vertical rack mounted to the wall for paint storage. Ideally these would all be in a row so I could just scoot over to access the different areas. I'd like it to be mostly open underneath so I could use stacking storage boxes for various things I don't need out all the time.
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Mar 8, 2022 00:58
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There's always stacking cinderblocks with wood boards on top
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Mar 8, 2022 03:38
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For storage I have been using these boxes with casters: https://smile.amazon.com/IRIS-USA-Plastic-Storage-Organizer/dp/B08S964X2H/ref=pd_ybh_a_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7AM60421S4T28RW7H69X What I do is have each box set up for a different task, so I have a construction box, which has glues, knifes, sprues, models completed but not primed, etc... and I just wheel it over when I am constructing. I also have a finishing box that has basing material and decal material, and I just wheel that over when I am doing that. They work really good for storing stuff for tasks that you don't do constantly, but want all the materials close at hand when you do. Here is my little cart setup: 
IncredibleIgloo fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Mar 8, 2022 |
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Mar 8, 2022 03:39
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IncredibleIgloo posted:For storage I have been using these boxes with casters: https://smile.amazon.com/IRIS-USA-Plastic-Storage-Organizer/dp/B08S964X2H/ref=pd_ybh_a_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7AM60421S4T28RW7H69X That's a pretty nice cow pillow. How comfy is it for post-painting session naps?
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Mar 8, 2022 04:13
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Oh, it is extremely nice. I will post the link below if you want one. I found them on a ski trip to Whistler, at an ice cream place called COWs. Their ice cream was pretty good, but their shirts are very comfy, oddly enough. I order a few shirts from them every couple months. Have not been able to make it up to Whistler in quite a while. But it is a very nice squishmallow. https://shop.cows.ca/shop/squishmallow-plush/
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Mar 8, 2022 04:24
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 I really enjoyed this model, it's kind of special to me. When I was a kid getting into Warhammer Eldar was my first army, and I'd lovingly gaze at all the models in the 3rd edition codex. In particular I always liked the Striking Scorpions, but my FLGS never had them in stock and I didn't have a lot of money besides, so I never got them. This particular sculpt was one of those pictures. Last year I bought a huge lot of 2nd and 3rd edition Eldar, and since Scorpions are actually good now I'm painting a unit of them up. It was really fun to finally paint this model. My Eldar army is all pink and purple, but scorpions have to be green or the canon police will beat my rear end, so I worked some purple in there. It turned out really good I think!
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Mar 8, 2022 10:29
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I’ve been thinking about making a 2nd/3rd Ed Kill Team for the same reasons!
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Mar 8, 2022 10:34
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Pre-HH2.0 cross post.Major Spag posted:Code 30 is real and it looked at me!
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Mar 8, 2022 18:38
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Major Spag posted:Pre-HH2.0 cross post. They look good! The model has a few artistic choices that are interesting. In my head I can hear the GW painting guy going "Okay, so thin down your paints just a bit so it flows smooth, and get a nice fine point on your brush. Using the edge of your brush, not the tip, apply some paint to pick out those fine details, like the nipple"
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Mar 8, 2022 18:54
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IncredibleIgloo posted:They look good! The model has a few artistic choices that are interesting. In my head I can hear the GW painting guy going "Okay, so thin down your paints just a bit so it flows smooth, and get a nice fine point on your brush. Using the edge of your brush, not the tip, apply some paint to pick out those fine details, like the nipple" I don't edge highlight my HH models. I think it makes them look a bit more subdued which is the general vibe i go for. What current method + edge highlighting looked like:  Major Spag fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Mar 8, 2022 |
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Mar 8, 2022 19:04
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I should have clarified, when I said interesting artistic choices I meant to specify their sculpting, not your work, which is very good.
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Mar 8, 2022 22:25
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ahh, i see. Yeah... ...nipple for men. Are we not in the hands of lunatics?
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Mar 8, 2022 23:59
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Due to some unexpected eBay auction winning, I have some painted models that I would like to de-paint. Although I should just prime one of them to see how that works before stripping. But anyway, if my options are 70% Iso. or Green Stuff, which is better, and how long to soak them?
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Mar 9, 2022 02:20
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Metal, plastic, or resin? Assuming plastic: if you have some small resealable containers, simple green. You can soak a few things in each container for as long as you want without issue, so anything you're not trying to strip fast you can throw in a glass jar or something and soak until you think you're ready to paint it. If you are trying to strip fast (and have glass jars and an ultrasonic cleaner) you can do the same thing but dunk the whole filled glass jar into the ultrasonic cleaner full of water. If it's pewter just dunk the whole thing in some acetone (nail polish remover). Just be sure to remove anything plastic (like the base) or it'll melt.
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Mar 9, 2022 03:06
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Oh yeah, that probably would have been helpful information... they are GW plastic minis. I assume they were painted with GW or other similar model acrylics.
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Mar 9, 2022 03:14
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Alright so I tried that method suggested earlier of using that mix of water/retarder/airbrush thinner while increasing the needle size from .3->.5 and increasing the PSI I fooled with it for several hours with the Black Stylrenz primer (instead of the white version last time) and when it worked, it worked very smoothly, but the issues I noticed were primarily due to: 1. paint not being thin enough, resulting in tip drying out faster even with the retarder mixture 2. paint being too thin, resulting in instead spraying droplets of paint on the model instead of a thin coat. adding more paint fixed this 3. clogs causing inconsistent spread, or having to drastically push farther back on the actuator on the airbrush in order to overcome the clog However, point 3 is probably where I should have stopped and done a clean instead of trying to power through it because the flow would drop down to a trickle, and I was starting to get impatient at having to do multiple passes instead of 30-60 seconds a model with a nice strong stream as before, because the paint was starting to clog I had to fix the clogs at this point (having taken the needle cover off and cleaned it after almost every 2-3 models) by physically taking the needle out, cleaning it with iso, and jamming it into the needle nozzle repeatedly, basically scraping/dislodging any dried paint actually inside of the hard-to-reach nozzle head with the tip of the needle. Doing this would unclog the airbrush...for a while. Airbrushing this long does seemingly make the tip of my pointer finger completely numb, so I'm wondering if I should just get that Iwata airbrush with the trigger instead, and if that would help what seems to be some "median nerve" issues I'm noticing. anyways other things I noticed: Airbrushing this many Modiphius models sure points out to me it's nice that these Fallout Wasteland Warfare minis are so highly detailed, but I don't know that I enjoy airbrushing these that much, since there's so many crevasses to cover. Airbrushing Age of Sigmar models is very satisfying. I was doing a Vindicator Prime and a Lord-Imperatant from the Dominion box and was pleased with how simple they were to spray without a lot of needless detail that my brush would never really be able to cover later. Even the Ossiarch Bonereapers were fine by comparison, and they have a lot of fiddly bits. I do still want to try loading the airbrush up with some watered down metallics and using that to do the base coat of some of these models because that seems like it'd be a good use of time. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Mar 9, 2022 |
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Mar 9, 2022 08:19
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Professor Shark posted:I’ve been thinking about making a 2nd/3rd Ed Kill Team for the same reasons! Kill Team is a great opportunity to indulge all your whims in trying a squad or two of a particular army without going whole hog. I'd wanted a Sisters of Battle plastic box for years just to paint, and when I finally get one... it's enough for a playable Kill Team.
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Mar 9, 2022 08:51
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Alright If you can increase your PSI, you should be able to just airbrush Stynylrez straight out of the bottle. I was originally thinning it because I had a cordless airbrush compressor that couldn't do more than 25 PSI tops. But since then, I actually got an actual airbrush compressor, complete with tank and pressure regulator/water trap (it's the Point Zero one you can find on Amazon for like 75-80 or so), and when I set the PSI to around 35ish, it sprays Stynylrez and Ammo by Mig One Shot primers with no problem. I even got that crappy Army Painter airbrush primer (that I'd previously written off) to spray decently now, and I just started experimenting with spraying cheap craft paints as basecoats, thinned down with windshield washer fluid (roughly 60/40 washer fluid to paint). I haven't even had to use that thinner mix I mentioned a while back since making that upgrade. Now I just need to get a decent namebrand airbrush. 
Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Mar 9, 2022 |
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Mar 9, 2022 10:17
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Airbrushing this long does seemingly make the tip of my pointer finger completely numb, so I'm wondering if I should just get that Iwata airbrush with the trigger instead, and if that would help what seems to be some "median nerve" issues I'm noticing. GreenBuckanneer posted:I do still want to try loading the airbrush up with some watered down metallics and using that to do the base coat of some of these models because that seems like it'd be a good use of time.
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Mar 9, 2022 13:58
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Airbrushing this long does seemingly make the tip of my pointer finger completely numb, so I'm wondering if I should just get that Iwata airbrush with the trigger instead, and if that would help what seems to be some "median nerve" issues I'm noticing. Using your index finger for the trigger for long periods just sucks. Try adjusting your grip so that instead of using your index finger for the trigger, you use your thumb. I think that'd the grip style Brent from Goobertown uses and says has less strain.
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Mar 9, 2022 14:10
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Airbrushing this long does seemingly make the tip of my pointer finger completely numb, so I'm wondering if I should just get that Iwata airbrush with the trigger instead, and if that would help what seems to be some "median nerve" issues I'm noticing.
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Mar 9, 2022 14:23
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Anyone know of a US-based webstore that carries a full stock of both Vallejo and Citadel paints? Seems like everywhere I look they either carry one or the other brand, or do carry both but have very little remaining inventory.
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Mar 9, 2022 22:15
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Class Warcraft posted:Anyone know of a US-based webstore that carries a full stock of both Vallejo and Citadel paints? "Full stock" is gonna be an issue because... Well, if you need that explained, congrats on coming out of that coma? I've been ordering my paints from https://www.michtoy.com/ lately.
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Mar 9, 2022 22:28
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Cthulu Carl posted:"Full stock" is gonna be an issue because... Well, if you need that explained, congrats on coming out of that coma? I just need four specific paints - two vallejo and two citadel. I figure that even with everything going on, somewhere must have the combination I need.
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Mar 9, 2022 22:53
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Try Amazon?
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Mar 10, 2022 02:23
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Anarcho-Commissar posted:Try Amazon? Unfortunately the prices on Amazon are out of control. Agrax Earthshade, normally $7.50 - on Amazon: $16 One pot of Vallejo, normal price $3 - on Amazon: $7.50
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Mar 10, 2022 02:55
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If you want to buy a few more citadel paints, this is a good way to do it on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Citadel-Bu...ps%2C203&sr=8-2 They have another product set up the same way for layer paints, and they will combine shipping. Get my paints in like 3 days from them.
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Mar 10, 2022 02:58
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Class Warcraft posted:I just need four specific paints - two vallejo and two citadel. I figure that even with everything going on, somewhere must have the combination I need. I usually buy paints from either Miniature Market or MTech Cave or other local stores with online shops, I just shop around since my LGS never have anything other than Citadel paints, or That One Board Game Store That Just Happens to Stock Army Painter products.
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Mar 10, 2022 03:01
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Yeah Michigan Toy is probably your best bet, Miniatures Market sells both lines but their availability has always been spotty. Vallejo paint is a lot easier to find in traditional hobby retailers but Citadel paints are only going to be at game stores.
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Mar 10, 2022 03:02
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Check Noble Knight too. They carry pretty much every paint line out there.
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Mar 10, 2022 03:18
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Electric Hobo posted:There are quite a few stl files for comfort grips on thingiverse. You could try that if you know a 3d printing nerd. I'll look into this, I have a Resin printer but not an FDM printer (no money, time or space for a second printer right now) so I can try to see if that would work. Cthulu Carl posted:Using your index finger for the trigger for long periods just sucks. Try adjusting your grip so that instead of using your index finger for the trigger, you use your thumb. I think that'd the grip style Brent from Goobertown uses and says has less strain. I read this, and disregarded it as silly nonsense this morning. I went to pick up my airbrush this way and immediately it felt like it was easier to use the trigger.  Thanks for this
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Mar 10, 2022 04:15
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