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Is there really any benefit to re-greasing stuff on passenger cars? It seems like bearings tend to last qute a bit nowadays. Only ever had to replace one wheel bearing and the worst issue was with two input shaft bearings which are constantly in oil anyway, I'd imagine. It used to be that you had to junk cars after 10 years anyway.IOwnCalculus posted:Hate to break it to you but the S10 was pretty much never modern. It ended production in 2004 and even that second-generation model still had an assload of parts that trace back to the 1980s G-body.
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Mar 12, 2022 21:17
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MrOnBicycle posted:Edit: I'd also get an electric grease gun (I think Ryobi has one if you are in the eco-system) with that many balls to grease. I did 6 on my S10 and it was fine with a manual one, but doing that many so often in awkward positions would get on my nerves. I can get an electric grease gun for $250, or I can get 20 gal 1.6hp air compressor $250: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...ssor-64857.html 12" hose pneumatic grease gun $27: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-grease-gun-with-12-in-hose-68293.html $276 I'll have to dig through my tools but there's an 80% chance there's a pneumatic impact wrench in my tool chest I haven't opened in 20 years. Is there any benefit to the electric vs pneumatic, besides not having the air compressor running in the background periodically
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Mar 12, 2022 22:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Hate to break it to you but the S10 was pretty much never modern. It ended production in 2004 and even that second-generation model still had an assload of parts that trace back to the 1980s G-body. Wait I was thinking it was an Audi like the S4 etc. Is it actually a domestic truck oh no
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Mar 12, 2022 22:38
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I don't think Audia has an A10 line. So far. 
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Mar 12, 2022 23:12
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Hadlock posted:I can get an electric grease gun for $250, or I can get I had one picked up at a yard sale. Unless you have a proper lift & are able to walk around under there, hauling the hose around into the proper position to install it on a zerk can be…challenging. I went back to a hand-pumper that can be used one-handed. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Mar 13, 2022 |
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Mar 12, 2022 23:29
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mobby_6kl posted:Is there really any benefit to re-greasing stuff on passenger cars? It seems like bearings tend to last qute a bit nowadays. Bearings weren't things that got re-packed regularly even back in the old days. What we're talking about here were things with zerks. So think things more like suspension components and U joints. And yes, they absolutely needed greasing every 3k miles or so when you needed an oil change because you had to wash the dirty great out with new grease because they weren't sealed at all. This was part of that actual legit tune up that cars of the older era needed. They were a lot more maintenance. Today there are bearings that aren't quite totally open like that and still greasable. But they are more expensive and as mentioned, unnecessary to make it through a warranty period.
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Mar 12, 2022 23:45
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PainterofCrap posted:YOU HAD BETTER START A THREAD Apparently if you squeeze too much, you can/will blow out the seal? How much is this a problem? One of those "once you start to feel resistance, STOP" kind of things?
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Mar 13, 2022 00:43
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Hadlock posted:Apparently if you squeeze too much, you can/will blow out the seal? How much is this a problem? One of those "once you start to feel resistance, STOP" kind of things? Yes. For things that have seals you need to be careful. It's very easy to blow out seals with an electric or pneumatic grease gun on things like that because they have no "feel". I don't know how many things would be on your car that actually are sensitive to that. There's basically nothing on any of my heavy equipment. It's definitely a thing in industrial equipment in general though. All of my stuff is really dumb/primitive pin and bushing kinda stuff so it really doesn't matter to me other than wasting grease and shop towels to wipe off the excess.
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Mar 13, 2022 01:06
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Hadlock posted:Apparently if you squeeze too much, you can/will blow out the seal? How much is this a problem? One of those "once you start to feel resistance, STOP" kind of things? For sealed boots, such as on ball joints and tie-rods ends, as soon as the boot starts to move, it’s probably a good idea to stop. Older boots may split as the material ages out. I’ve never lubed a Traction-Avant, but considering the state of the art at the time, it’s probably mostly “squeeze til the grease comes out clean” types.
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Mar 13, 2022 02:51
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The interval being only 1000 miles supports that, too.
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Mar 13, 2022 03:11
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This stuff is super interesting to me as someone who has never worked on anything older than the '90s. I knew you could rebuild shocks and it just wasn't a cost-effective option anymore but I never knew about grease fittings on passenger cars, I had that in mind as a heavy machinery thing. I guess I can kind of see the appeal that older stuff like that has to people from that generation. Seems like a lot more maintenance but a lot less parts needing completely replaced? Or is that an over-idealized idea and parts still needed replacing all the time? I know the response to "They don't make them like they used to" should be "Thank God."
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Mar 13, 2022 06:14
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 As with any question of this magnitude, "it depends" Getting 100,000 miles out of a car was considered about end of life up until the... mid 1980s? My dad drove a bunch of early 1980s GM cars and serviced/maintained them himself and would routinely get 200,000 miles out of each one, just driving it into the ground, it was considered an impressive feat in the 90s Now cars routinely get 150,000 miles; uber drivers typically squeeze 350,000 miles out of a Prius these days My car has ~55,000 miles (~90k km) and AFAIK it's all original parts, which normally wouldn't be impressive if it weren't nearly 70 years old (and some other highly unusual stuff, I'll save it for my thread). It does benefit from being the very last revision of the car which had been in production for nearly 20 years, so they had 20 years to work out all the kinks, and improve manufacturing procesess, strengthen weak parts, redesign unreliable ones etc. I think in the first four years they went through two engine partial redesigns, and completely redesigned the rear suspension. They didn't add an oil filter to the engine until year 18. Cars with unusually large/long production runs have the advantage that everybody has, or knows someone who has rebuilt the engine for X in their garage, be it a chevy 350, a vw 4 cylinder or whatever. So the best practice maintenance stuff is well documented in a bunch of third party publications. Also, these cars with unusually large/long production runs were often "the car that mobilized country_X after world war 2" so for germany it's the beetle, for france it's the traction avant (11CV), and starting in 1949 the 2CV.... I'm sure england had one but they were also building traction avants... uh, italy had the fiat 500 ... etc etc I guess east germany had the trabant, russia had their own set of cars etc (garage 54 on youtube is semi famous for this stuff), those cars needed to be unusually reliable because there was really only one factory cranking out cars for the whole country, there was a long waiting list, so there was no need to design in planned obsolescence . It needed to last 20 years of hard use on dirt roads, because there wasn't enough manufacturing capacity to build everyone in the country a new car every 3-7 years. You got a car and you made do with it for a long time. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Mar 13, 2022 |
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Mar 13, 2022 06:31
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22 Eargesplitten posted:This stuff is super interesting to me as someone who has never worked on anything older than the '90s. I knew you could rebuild shocks and it just wasn't a cost-effective option anymore but I never knew about grease fittings on passenger cars, I had that in mind as a heavy machinery thing. I guess I can kind of see the appeal that older stuff like that has to people from that generation. Seems like a lot more maintenance but a lot less parts needing completely replaced? Or is that an over-idealized idea and parts still needed replacing all the time? I know the response to "They don't make them like they used to" should be "Thank God." Overidealized. the parts were even more poo poo, the lubricants, too. Greasing was just overcoming those issues. One of the big selling points of the beetle was that you could change the engine in 2 hours. Engine overhauls were a huge business and cars only had 5 digit odometers. replacement engines were regularly advertised next to mufflers. Warranties were 10,000 miles.   A lot of it was likely planned obsolescence, which is why when the Japanese came in with well made poo poo they ate the American's lunch. Old dudes say "they don't make them like they used to" nostalgically, then are impressed when the door closes on the first hit and almost lines up with the body. Powershift fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Mar 13, 2022 |
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Mar 13, 2022 06:33
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Re: engine rebuilds being super common; the traction avant uses cylinder liners; when they're worn out you just get four new cylinder liners, pistons and bearings, adjust the valves and you're back on the road the next day. None of this "boring the engine out 0.080 over" blah blah blah. Engine was designed to be rebuilt several times. Consequently engine parts are rather cheap and a lot of cars using that engine design are still on the road
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Mar 13, 2022 06:55
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Keep in mind also, that 50+ YO cars that are still in decent nick are the ones that won the assembly/maintenance/anal-retentive owner lottery. Even the shittiest cars can be well-built of close-tolerance parts, and fawned over by adoring owners. My '66 Bonneville was never parked outside for very long, and the PO was anal AF. 99% of these big cars are gone: rust, poor assembly, electrical fires, hard use. Goes double for trucks, vans, and station wagons. Cars are far better engineered and better built than ever. What's killing me is the planned obsolescence, which is multiplied by the hideous complexity of the engine-management system and chassis electronics. So, so many things to go wrong. When I think about "they don't build them like that anymore!" it's the elegance and simplicity of the thing: well-built, of well, engineered & tooled parts; simple and durable. It would be a nice change of pace for the US to build a simple car. It can be done in a way that produces a safe and relatively clean conveyance. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Mar 13, 2022 |
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Mar 13, 2022 06:56
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Required viewing for anyone who is interested in the current discussion: https://youtu.be/xRyN4XhJ_ms
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Mar 13, 2022 09:36
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i was surprised that read "miles" given the canadian dealership and apparently canada only switched in the '70s
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Mar 13, 2022 10:49
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Thauros posted:i was surprised that read "miles" given the canadian dealership and apparently canada only switched in the '70s I had no idea and I'm Canadian.
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Mar 13, 2022 17:13
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Thauros posted:i was surprised that read "miles" given the canadian dealership and apparently canada only switched in the '70s The ad is from 76, a year before the odometers and road signs changed and everybody was happy about it and nobody was extremely angry. Gas pumps changed from imperial gallons in 1979. A lot of stuff still used miles, and miles per gallon for quite a while longer because it sounded good. 
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Mar 13, 2022 18:11
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Powershift posted:The ad is from 76, a year before the odometers and road signs changed and everybody was happy about it and nobody was extremely angry. fun factoid: canada did keep using miles per gallon for fuel economy for decades after 1979 because it is just so much better than "litres per 100 kilometers"  as a unit that humans can grasp. also canada gets a poo poo-ton of american media and their car ads are always talking about MPG so that's what everyone knows.as a result, up through the 2000s it was common for car dealers and manufacturers to continue to report fuel economy in MPG. at some point the government got pissy about this and said it was a non-approved measure, and made everyone switch to reporting only l/100km. everyone hated this. nobody knew what the figure meant. people protested and eventually the government relented and said okay, fine, you can use mpg for customer convenience...but it must be mpg-imp. because we're still part of great britain or some poo poo. so now canadian cars are reported in both the figure that no one understands, and the figure that has the same name as the one in america but makes your car appear 15% better if you buy it in canada. 
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Mar 13, 2022 21:01
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Hello. I noticed a mild burnt smell from under the hood when I parked the car today. Not "on fire" burning, so I left it to cool down a bit and came back out, opened up the hood, checked around, and started the engine. Mild smell returned but less so (I'd just come back from a short 80mph trip). Nothing seemed particularly out of place and the oil looked OK on the dip stick as best as I can tell. Is there a go-to issue associated with this? It's a 2004 petrol civic with 65k on the clock. It gets regular non-dealer services and passes its yearly inspection, but it has become a bit more clunky and rattly of the last couple of years. Any insight would be much appreciated, otherwise I'm going to wait-and-see then bring it up ahead of the inspection this autumn. Thanks!
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Mar 14, 2022 13:25
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Sagebrush posted:fun factoid: as an american who thinks metric generally makes more sense aside from temperature for weather and non scienttfic/medical contexts i'd have guessed liters per 100 km would be more intuitive sense to people under about 60 but yeah, using an imp. gallon sounds insane. i remember the first time i went to canada with my family as a teenager i thought gas was incredibly cheap lol Thauros fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Mar 14, 2022 |
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Mar 14, 2022 13:53
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Jaded Burnout posted:Hello. Most likely thing that comes to mind is a small oil drip that occasionally gets on the exhaust manifold. Probably more of an annoyance than anything serious at this point. It's closing in on 20 years old, stuff like that is going to happen.
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Mar 14, 2022 14:13
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Deteriorata posted:Most likely thing that comes to mind is a small oil drip that occasionally gets on the exhaust manifold. Probably more of an annoyance than anything serious at this point. Alright cool. I'm not bothered about it if it's not serious. I'll mention it at the next service just so they can double check that there's nothing major going on. Thanks!
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Mar 14, 2022 14:46
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Jaded Burnout posted:Hello. Take a look at the undercarriage with a light. You may have picked up a plastic bag or some other debris, and it’s stuck to your exhaust.
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Mar 14, 2022 17:13
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Holy moly you got an avant?!? I am terribly jealous. My real 50s french car dream is a Panhard or maybe even a dauphine, but you are living the life, goon. i really want a Panhard 24
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Mar 14, 2022 17:22
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Why does the LATCH car seat system have such a ludicrously low combined weight limit of 69 lbs for both occupant and seat. It's a great system, just woefully under engineered Ideally it would have a combined weight limit of 120 lbs so you could fit an 80lb kid in there and get more than 8-12 months of use out of it, rather than switch over to mangling your seatbelts through a labyrinth of plastic that apparently most parents gently caress up anyways The D ring cargo tie down points in my trunk have a higher rating  although I guess they're not technically rated for human life safetyKYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:i really want a Panhard 24 The guy I bought my TA from has a Panhard 17 (not 24) if you're in the market and can wait a couple months for him to finish it, the French guy who inspected my car saw it and said it was in really good condition minus the engine not currently running My TA isn't scheduled to arrive for almost a month 
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Mar 14, 2022 18:27
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Hadlock posted:Why does the LATCH car seat system have such a ludicrously low combined weight limit of 69 lbs for both occupant and seat. Nice.
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Mar 14, 2022 18:38
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Hadlock posted:Why does the LATCH car seat system have such a ludicrously low combined weight limit of 69 lbs for both occupant and seat. It's a great system, just woefully under engineered The weight limit is low because the LATCH has to hold child and seat under a whoooole lot of G-forces in a crash. So they're starting with a static weight (mass, really) and multiplying it by a significant number and it has to not break under that load. The cargo tie down points in your trunk are probably only rated to hold the cargo under normal stopping and acceleration, rather than needing to hold it when you smash into a wall at 30mph.
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Mar 14, 2022 18:55
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I've rounded a basically unreplaceable 11mm bolt by working in the cold and dark. I need to torque it to 40ft-lb and then another 90degrees. I can get it to the 40ft-lb but I'm wondering if I can cut a screwdriver slot in it and get it down all the way? Is is that too big of an ask on a flathead connection? It's a temporary solution. My only other idea is weld a nut on it or smash a 10mm down. But I don't think either of these would work well.
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Mar 14, 2022 19:06
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Anyone have a decent pulse on current trailer prices? I'm looking to list my Featherlite 14ft since the BRZs don't fit on it properly, trailer prices seem all over the map right now. e: nevermind, sold it BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Mar 15, 2022 |
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Mar 14, 2022 20:41
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Chunjee posted:I've rounded a basically unreplaceable 11mm bolt by working in the cold and dark. I need to torque it to 40ft-lb and then another 90degrees. I can get it to the 40ft-lb but I'm wondering if I can cut a screwdriver slot in it and get it down all the way? Is is that too big of an ask on a flathead connection? I'd be pretty surprised to see that work out. I'm not an engineer though, and have no idea what actual capabilities are, but a homemade slot is likely going to come up short of best-case scenarios. Got any more context on the bolt? Where is it? What are the dimensions? Mandatory plug for https://www.boltdepot.com if you’re not already familiar. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Mar 14, 2022 |
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Mar 14, 2022 21:26
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Another option is to file new faces onto the head of the bolt, if you can get to it with a file. Hammering a sacrificial socket onto it is also do-able. My experience with cutting slots is that I never manage to get a perfectly square slot that a big screwdriver will fit snugly into, but if you can do it, you can then grab your square-shanked screwdriver with a big wrench and use that to torque it. But also you're drastically weakening the bolt head and if this doesn't work, you're basically out of options.
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Mar 14, 2022 22:04
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Powershift posted:Basically none. There should be a small clunk but next to no movement. Sooooo.... There is some play in the diff. My tires are made by Firestone, so if the "o" is at six o'clock, I can turn it to the next letter almost. More importantly, the bolts holding the driveshaft to the differential were barely in or finger tight at best. Tightened them up, went on a test drive, and the vibration is gone. Should I see about the differential? Probably, but it also has 300k miles and I'll be getting a new to me car soon for my DD and this one will be for when I need a truck. Read: I'm not fixing it until it explodes.
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Mar 15, 2022 00:00
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Pretty common to spot weld a same size (11mm) nut on there, then full weld it if you have access to a mig or tig Side benefit is that if you're fast, it's already pre heated the joint and might come out easier
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Mar 15, 2022 00:34
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briefcasefullof posted:Sooooo.... The factory bolts should have had loctite so i would wager somebody's been in there already. Not a surprise at 300k. entire used axles are common and cheaper than a rebuild, so as long as it's not the pinion nut loosening up it will *probably* be fine until it explodes. It will probably start whining before it does. If it was the kind of vehicle where you intended on rebuilding the differential it would make sense to get in there before damage was done to the gears or the carrier. If it's due for rear fluid change as is, the cover has to come off anyways, so it would make sense to check the backlash at the ring gear while you're in there. Powershift fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Mar 15, 2022 |
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Mar 15, 2022 00:36
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Powershift posted:The factory bolts should have had loctite so i would wager somebody's been in there already. Not a surprise at 300k. It was me, about 50k miles ago. Had to remove the driveshaft to replace the transmission. We didnt loctite the bolts back. Powershift posted:entire used axles are common and cheaper than a rebuild, so as long as it's not the pinion nut loosening up it will *probably* be fine until it explodes. It will probably start whining before it does. I'll keep an ear out for whining. The fluid has never been changed because I'm amazing at maintenance. I'll give it a check just for good measure. For now, I'm going to get new tires and rear brakes because one of my rotors is warped.
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Mar 15, 2022 01:16
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Chunjee posted:I've rounded a basically unreplaceable 11mm bolt So the head is 11mm but what thread size is it?
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Mar 15, 2022 08:01
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Hadlock posted:Why does the LATCH car seat system have such a ludicrously low combined weight limit of 69 lbs for both occupant and seat. It's a great system, just woefully under engineered 8-12 months? A good car seat weighs like 15-20 lb and it took our not small kid til age 5 or 6 to get over 50 lbs.
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Mar 15, 2022 13:42
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BonoMan posted:8-12 months? A good car seat weighs like 15-20 lb and it took our not small kid til age 5 or 6 to get over 50 lbs. My almost 6 year old just switched to belt from Latch, and we still use the latch to hold the boosters (that are the same carseats, just "converted"). So latch is helpful for 5 years, and by then they are old enough to hold their body in the right place and don't need to be 5 pointed in anyways.
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Mar 16, 2022 00:26
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