|
rdb posted:
Electric fans, it's an 06. When do the low speed fans come on for this model? (2006 Silverado 1500 w/ 5.3 L33 engine) I just looked online and seen differing stats. One source says that the low speed fans come on at 202⁰, another that says they are supposed to come on at 220⁰. The temperature gauge versus what is reported via odb2 are not consistent so going by what odb2 says I think it's probably not panictime. It is entirely possible I'm just being a huge nerd who worries too much. I'd like to try tapping the relays to see if the fans are messed up later today or tomorrow. I wonder if there's something I can monitor in the computer to see if the fans are commanded on or not...
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2021 19:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 10:10 |
|
|
At least on their compact cars, GM doesn't kick the fans on until over 220. Both of my Saturns were that way, friend's Cruze is also the same. The gauge also doesn't move at all from about 180-225 on the Cruze; on the Saturns it would hit dead center right when the fans kicked on (until then it would be just below the middle). When I did the thermostat on said Cruze last week, I was about to start making GBS threads myself because it just kept heating up more and more, then the fan finally kicked on around 225 and instantly dropped the temp. On her car it stayed on until about 215, on the Saturns it would drop it down to 195ish before the fan turned back off. GM likes to run their poo poo hot. There may be a PID to monitor over Torque or something similar to see if the fans are commanded on, but you'll have the best luck with a scan tool that speaks GM.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 05:12
|
|
|
nitrogen posted:I wonder if there's something I can monitor in the computer to see if the fans are commanded on or not... Generic OBD2 scantools might not be able to tell, but HPTuners and professional-level tools absolutely can.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 05:52
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Generic OBD2 scantools might not be able to tell, but HPTuners and professional-level tools absolutely can. Is there a good thread or resource on some of these upper-level odb2 tools? It would be nice to have something that I can do extended debugging on my cars with but so many of the professional level ones are lots of money and seem to want a subscription. It'd be neat to read about them from position of someone who knows a lot more about them than I do currently.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 14:35
|
|
|
 In a fit of terrible judgement I decided to spend money on a 2005 Chevy ~*Avalanche*~ with 250k km. To do (at the moment): -Front steering. Pitman arm and steering shaft. -Exhaust is gone after the muffler. -Fenders are rusted. -Rockers are rusted. -Cab corners are rusted. -Oil leaking from somewhere. -P0449 code. Something about an evap solenoid. -"Rear Left Door Ajar" -Something about with the charging system. Light came on but has since gone away. -A/C compressor bearing. -Blower motor resistor. -Gas gauge failed, but came back. -No head unit. From reading the thread it seems like standard GM fare. Anything in particular someone not terribly car savvy should keep their eyes on? My hope is to address the most pressing things first, like the lack of a stereo, and use this truck as a learning experience. therunningman fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Dec 27, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2021 02:30
|
|
|
Sounds like the GM Truck best hits to me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2021 02:34
|
|
|
therunningman posted:https://imgur.com/a/APj5dPj Probably go ahead and replace all of the brake lines and the fuel pump.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2021 03:46
|
|
|
rifles posted:Probably go ahead and replace all of the brake lines and the fuel pump. I will check them out! I have ordered the parts for the steering. Thankfully Rockauto ships to Canada for a decent price. My assumption is to not go for the $17 pitman arm so I got the mid-price $70 Moog part instead. There was a choice between a 4 spline and 3 spline arm. Googling suggested 4 spline so that I got that. Wish me luck.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2021 19:20
|
|
|
therunningman posted:I will check them out! I go with Moog for most suspension/steering parts. They aren't the best for all applications, but the warranty is good and they are always in spec. I've never had to burn out a Moog bushing, which is not something I can say for stock parts. I'm just one person, mind, but I drive Dodge pickups that eat up front suspension parts like a MFer. If you ever feel silly paying a lot for bushings, control arms, etc., remember that the stock parts are trash and last for 150,000 miles or so. Good luck and may the Kroil be with you.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 16:00
|
|
|
rifles posted:Probably go ahead and replace all of the brake lines and the fuel pump. I look at the fuel pump like doing a timing belt, every 100k you just do it so you don't get stranded. You can find pre bent brake line kits in stock at parts stores, it was $100 for a set of stainless for a 03 Suburban. Get replacement fender liner clips before you start, I just swapped my radiator and had to replace a bunch more. Does anyone have any recommendation for where to get fuel lines? Lines to go has something listed for a different but specific year but I'm thinking any 2000-2006 flex fuel Suburban would have the same lines.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 16:23
|
|
|
Not necessarily, some fuel system stuff got changed in the facelift and iirc some 03-06 stuff even got the returnless system of the 07-14. I would check with the dealer tbh.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 16:58
|
|
|
 Oh also I let another one of these drat things follow me home...
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 17:06
|
|
|
madeintaipei posted:I go with Moog for most suspension/steering parts. They aren't the best for all applications, but the warranty is good and they are always in spec. I've never had to burn out a Moog bushing, which is not something I can say for stock parts. Well I suppose the front suspension will get some attention after the steering, and the brakes, and he fuel pump, and the tailgate etc. etc. I've seen it suggested on YouTube to cut the floor to access the fuel pump. This seems sketchy but maybe it's the best approach?
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2022 04:09
|
|
|
That's common advice, particularly in rusty parts of the country. I, shockingly, had zero trouble dropping the tank in my 95 to replace the pump. Every fastener for the tank and skid plate just zipped right out like they were new. Could not believe it. On the coasts? Forget that (or lifting the bed, which is the pickup version). Figure out a good way to plug the new hole in the bed.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2022 04:11
|
|
|
My dad has a K1500, I'm pretty sure it's a '92 but he's had it for like 20 years so it's hard to remember. A while back his ex ruined the transmission and transfer case and my shade tree uncle ended up rebuilding them. He also apparently put the rear axle in from another truck, not sure what was going on there, if the ex managed to destroy the rear diff as well or something. Now my dad mentioned that it has brake noise since the swap and he's worried about its safety. My thought is that the donor vehicle was probably sitting out and the drum brakes are 90% rust at this point. I'm going to be out there this weekend and offered to take a look, is there anything else that I should keep in mind given that I know the problem cropped up after swapping in a new axle? I've only ever worked on small cars so live axles and u-joints and poo poo are new to me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2022 19:29
|
|
|
If you know how CV joints work, you know how U Joints work - the concept is the same, but a simpler execution. They're easier to troubleshoot, even, since they're exposed and designed not to have much play in them. As far as a live axle, think of the axles as CV axles, except without CV joints. They might have clips keeping them in the differential though, so if they have to come out, you often have to pull the diff cover (you will discover horrific smells if you do this, and you'll need to know if you need a friction modifier when reassembling/refilling). I'd be more concerned about the rear end matching the front - they have to be the same ratio, otherwise the transfer case turns its innies into outies. Make sure there's no liquid when you pull the drums - if the axle seals are leaking, there will be diff oil in there. If there's oil in there, uh, have fun, since you get to pull the axles to replace the seals. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Feb 9, 2022 |
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2022 14:07
|
|
|
Are the ratios on the rear end something I can determine from markings or would I have to get both rears off the ground and start spinning the driveshaft to determine how many rotations makes a wheel rotation?
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2022 14:17
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the ratios on the rear end something I can determine from markings or would I have to get both rears off the ground and start spinning the driveshaft to determine how many rotations makes a wheel rotation? If you can find markings (usually on the passenger side axle tube on GMs), you can usually find something online to decode them. It's usually a 2-character code. Here's a page with examples from old Nova rear ends: https://www.novaresource.org/axle.htm. If you can't find that, you can always pull the cover and count gear teeth.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2022 14:20
|
|
|
So basically I'd want to check that and then look for the same thing on the front axle and compare them? I'm used to Subarus where the front differential is built in as part of the transmission rather than it going transmission > transfer case > driveshaft > differential like it does with trucks as I understand it. I would hope my uncle checked to make sure they matched but I don't know how good of a mechanic he is.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2022 17:21
|
|
|
The codes on the front axle may not necessarily translate the same as the rears but I'm in no way a 4x4 guy so I really don't know on that. I'm assuming the front axle is still factory? You can probably find some info online about what kind of axles you could get in those trucks. I would think it would still be stamped with a code somewhere though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2022 23:19
|
|
|
Assuming nobody's hosed with it, RPO sticker should be somewhere on the glovebox door. You'll be looking for a GT# or GU# code and you can cross reference that to the ratio the truck had, at least from the factory. You could always look for a stamped ratio / tooth count on the outside edge of the ring gear, or worst case, count teeth on both the ring and the pinion. With all that said, worrying about gear ratios seems secondary to "does it run and drive" and "what noise is it making". If you have reason to believe it was hosed with and might have mismatched ratios, don't put it in 4WD until you've verified both ratios to be the same.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2022 23:47
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Assuming nobody's hosed with it, RPO sticker should be somewhere on the glovebox door. You'll be looking for a GT# or GU# code and you can cross reference that to the ratio the truck had, at least from the factory. On this point, if you want to get into the paperwork portion, https://www.compnine.com/vid.php is a good place to get an RPO report. I ran it on my '05 Escalade before I bought it and it came back with over 95 RPO codes. It's a lot to sort through, but gives you a good idea about how the vehicle you're looking at left the factory.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2022 00:05
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:So basically I'd want to check that and then look for the same thing on the front axle and compare them? Front and rear axles should have the same ratio, unless someone is really trying to gently caress you over. If they were different you'd know pretty drat quickly if you put it in 4WD.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2022 01:42
|
|
|
Yeah, I know that you need to match front and rear diff ratios or you'll have a very bad time, I was looking at a manual swap for my SVX and you need a new rear diff because they never made a manual with the same front diff ratio. I just want to check and make sure, I don't know if he has put it in 4WD since the swap. Maybe it's a 14 bolt instead of a 10 bolt or something, apparently that's a common upgrade? My dad has a construction-style conversion truck/van that he dailies from when he was self-employed, so it has mostly been sitting. I'll check for the RPO and if I can't find it in the glovebox I'll see if I can pull it up with the VIN in the middle of nowhere, I think I actually have reception out there now.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2022 06:17
|
|
|
ABS status on my 2001: still broken. rather buy speed parts for the other car. However I did have the rears lock up on me on me the other day in the rain so that may be changing soon.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2022 17:01
|
|
|
Just missed...
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2022 19:51
|
|
|
And you weren't going 11 mph. Shameful.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2022 23:23
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:And you weren't going 11 mph. Shameful. Shameful because I wasn't going 111 mph.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 00:33
|
|
|
I can say from experience that a GMT400 can get to its 100MPH limiter, once. It needed a new 4L60E immediately afterwards.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 03:32
|
|
|
I have a speeding ticket that says a GMT400 Suburban can sustain that speed for quite a while.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 08:04
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I can say from experience that a GMT400 can get to its 100MPH limiter, once. Peepee Doodoo Automatics are bad transmissions.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 15:09
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I can say from experience that a GMT400 can get to its 100MPH limiter, once. To be fair those last about as long as a clutch does.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 16:32
|
|
|
SpeedFreek posted:To be fair those last about as long as a clutch does. Yeah sure if you don't know how to drive stick and or leave a foot hanging on the clutch pedal. Better comparison is a 4l60 lasts about that of a belt drive CVT.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2022 18:12
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:I have a speeding ticket that says a GMT400 Suburban can sustain that speed for quite a while. Ours was a loving lemon and/or cursed, to be fair. It literally went like this: *Dad floors it to pass traffic *Acceleration stops as we hit the limiter *"Uh, we're smoking" Followed by hours of limping it home from the middle of nowhere because couldn't possibly call for a tow. Only first and second worked by the time we got home.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2022 15:08
|
|
|
Mine is the first vehicle I've owned that I didn't try to find the limiter. Yet, at least. But I'm pretty sure the fuel gauge will hit E before I get there, regardless.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2022 02:54
|
|
|
Mine just passed 333333km, I was pissed about missing it because I'd literally gone for a chill drive that I didn't have to be anywhere spceifically so I wouldn't, and then got distracted anyway and doot de doot de oh gently caress 333335. More or less the same thing has happened with every other mileage milestone I've hit on this stupid thing tho.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2022 05:42
|
|
|
Just passed this one the other day on my Tacoma. Up next is 6969 km.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2022 16:52
|
|
|
I was not taught to be a car-toucher so everything is a learning experience. I managed to install a new stereo in the Avalanche. That took me a good three weeks, including cutting and shaping the dash kit to fit the cheapest Amazon stereo, finding out my crimping sucks and redoing everything with my soldering iron but it works and i finally have sound! I also replaced the blower motor resistor. I ordered a two-hole part but I need the four-hole. I ended up with mountable zipties on the screws rather than return a part I waited two weeks for already. Also redid the wiring harness for the resistor. Now I can control the fan! Next up I am going to tackle front wheel bearings (with some help).
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2022 18:21
|
|
|
My previous truck was a 92 Ranger 4x4. I always bombed down rough forest service roads to access remote lakes and campsites and never worried. When I take my Avalanche down the same roads now I feel like I need to baby it because of what a heavy cow it is. Is there anything to that or can I send it the same way you can a 90s Ranger?
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2022 22:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 10:10 |
|
|
load up a blunderbuss of front end parts and aim it squarely at the front end. Throw money at shocks/springs/arms/joints/rod ends/knuckles. Mostly in that order.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2022 22:33
|
|